How To Insulate a Van Conversion | 3M Thinsulate and Reflectix Insulation
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2022
- How To Insulate a Van Conversion | 3M Thinsulate and Reflectix Insulation
The Vankookz Van Conversion Masterclass is Finally Here! - vankookz-van-conversion-maste...
First Steps in a Van Conversion Masterclass (Insulation, Framing, Ceiling, Walls, Floor) vankookz-van-conversion-maste...
This video is all about quick and easy van insulation we show you the fastest way to insulate your van in 10 easy steps.
FREE step-by-step instructional video guide on how to build your van here - www.vankookz.com/diy-ford-tra...
In this quick video, we will show you how to insulate your van with 3M Thinsulate and reflectix. This is one of the easier tasks in insulating your van conversion and you will feel pretty good about yourself after completing this job which only requires you to use scissors, a mask, and safety glasses.
Here are a few products we used in this build.
Thinsulate Insulation - amzn.to/40BbnBg
Reflectix - amzn.to/3oV2Tlo
3M Adhesive Spray - amzn.to/3acQ0zo
3M N95 Respirator - amzn.to/3ad54gm
In this build, we used 70 linear ft. of Thinsulate SM600L. We believe Thinsulate is a great product for use in insulating your van, having tried other insulation products we would use and recommend this product 10 out of 10 times, and here’s why.
No Mess - Very easy installation, when compared to spray foam insulation and even cutting all the R-Max boards to size, can create a mess. Easy to Install - Installing the 3M SM600L is literally a cut and paste job. All you need to do is measure the cavities, spray the 3M 90 spray adhesive and stick it to the van wall.
Sound Damping - Another benefit to the Thinsulate is that it has sound deadening qualities with non-woven sound-absorbing fibers creating a quieter vehicle environment.
Works Pretty Good - The SM600L has an R-value of 5.2. It can be increased with a Refletix moisture barrier, which is what we will do here. We’ve noticed that it keeps the heat out just as effectively as the cold. Once you are in a cold environment for an extended period, you will want to install a diesel cabin heater to keep the van warm. The insulation works, but it doesn't work miracles. If you know you will be in the cold, consider a heater.
Moisture Repellent - Hydrophobic fibers resist moisture, mold, and mildew. (We’ve seen it work). Thinsulate insulation is also resistant to mildew growth, reducing the risk of offensive odors and mold. Using an additional layer of Reflectix on top of the Thinsulate can gain a little extra R-Value for pretty cheap. In order of this to work, you need to create an air gap when you install your framing. Your walls should have an air gap in-between the Reflectix and the interior walls, which we will show you how to do next.
You will want to create a vapor barrier with the Reflectix in this step. What you do is use 3M Spray 90 adhesive to glue Reflectix to the entire interior of the van and use metal duct tape to tape up all seams to create a vapor barrier to prevent condensation from the metal van to venture into your walls.
Insulating the Van Floor - Depending on how tall you are or how much headroom you want to have an influence on what type of insulation you can use on your floor. The best bet is to lift the floor off the van with some floor slats and insulate it with the poly board in between the slats. In this van, we don’t have even an inch of headroom to give so we are just going to use reflectix. This isn’t the best option and won’t provide much more than a floor pad, but we know it's better than nothing. So, we used one layer of Reflectix to insulate the floor. We took the floor out and cut the Reflectix using the subfloor as a template.
Here are some values for how much insulation you will need depending on your vehicle
Thinsulate Insulation - amzn.to/3gMGpAo
Reflectix - amzn.to/3oV2Tlo
Sprinter 144 WB = 50 linear feet
Ford Transit 148 WB = 50 linear feet
Promaster 159 WB = 50 linear feet
170 WB Sprinter = 60 linear feet
170 WB Extended Sprinter = 70 linear feet
More info on insulation is available on our website here: www.vankookz.com/2006-t1n-spr... - Навчання та стиль
From my understanding, the R-value is minimal (R1-2) if the vapor barrier is glued or attached to any surface on the side of the van. The R value goes up significantly when dead air space is created (up to R-21) if placed on top of the wooden framing (or you can glue it to the internal wooden walls on the side facing the van wall) - just so long as it has that dead air space. Even Reflectix company recommends this. Hope this helps 🙏
Thank you so much this video was exactly what i needed. So easy to overcomplicate it in my head. Ive been sitting with the thinsulate on only my walls all summer lol. gonna put the ceiling on TODAY! thank you so much for reading comments and being so diligent. I started this project with a friend and since its become my own. Seeing yall do so well gives me a lot of hope that ill eventually find myself in a much happier and brighter place
So glad we could help. Just follow the vankookz protocol and your van will turn out amazing!
Great Video!! Thank you. I have 40 years of construction background and understand insulation.... HOWEVER, I am a newbie when it comes to the different types used in a van build out. Your video was very informative regarding this very important step.
Thank You Thank You. I am now a subscriber (grin).
Welcome to the Vankookz Channel! We appreciate thr kind comment.
would you recommend this for a warm humid climate like Florida? yes? help me understand. Great vid! Can't wait to start this process!
Very Cool of you guys to slow down the pace and explain through trial and error. I myself am going to start this adventure soon and your knowledge will help me out with that. I look forward to watching more of your videos and I will be a good lad and comment and etc because UA-cam likes that stuff haha. Have a great day!
Awesome! Glad we could help out!
very helpful. about to install thinsulate in my van so SUPER happy to have a primer. thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Yall are brave adding a vapor barrier over the vans already built-in vapor barrier(the outer sheet metal). Have you ever pulled one your builds apart to see if you've trapped moisture and have mold going between your vapor barriers? I have. Never again putting a vapor barrier in a van.
You need to eliminate all the moisture transfer from INSIDE the van caused by cooking and humans breathing, from entering the van walls. The issue with the process here, is that any cold metal surface on the inside of the van wall WILL create condensation - this is why closed cell foam or lizard skin type barriers directly covering the steel surfaces is such a good method, albeit harder and messier to install.
Always sharing the most helpful stuff! Great video!
Thanks Jess I hope you two find a perfect slice of paradise.
Great video again guys! Well done.
Cheers from London England 👍😎🏴
Awesome this is the fun and easy part of the build
You Kookz are awesome!
You are awesome too. 🙌⚡
One thing I like to see with Ford Transit rear doors is somebody installing a tool rack in the door in the place of that plastic cover.
It might require altering some of the internal structure.
Thats a great idea 💡 this van is already off with its new owner but next time I will consider this. Thanks Craig.
Cool video, can you do a video on secondary alternator installation for lithium battery charging while driving with wiring diagram?
Yes I will have all this coming out here in a few weeks with the Vankookz Van Conversion Masterclass you can sign up at www.vankookz.com
Always enjoy your videos. I don't understand why you would use that for insulation? When PIR board has almost 3 times the insulation properties per inch. I understand this type of insulation is easy to install. PIR board doesn't absorb moisture. You still need to install foam insulation to the walls of the van before you install PIR board.
Thanks we appreciate that.. we put a good deal of work into these videos. We also try to give out what we have found to work the best from almost 7 years of vanlife now and building multiple vans in all different ways. We've used the board before and it's a hassle. There comes a time when you are just out in the heat and you are in cooking in your tin can and you can have the world's best insulation and it doesn't matter. Same goes for cold. I've been on the van for over a month in single digits and negatives at night. No insulation will keep you warm you're basically living in a cooler. So a heater is mandatory. I've seen that board also get very moldy. We used to make yurts for burningman with that board and we've had to throw a bunch of it out because it molded out in a storage facility. I'm just trying to share the easiest most dirtbag and cost effective way to do it. Plus when using thr board you then have to use a very toxic and extremely messy spray foam product as well. I once converted a van and had to tear all that crap out. It want pretty I wish filmed it. This application is a non toxic and easy way to have results.
Hi: thanks for the video. I see you don’t use any product like Kilz Mat for sound control? So do you feel the Thinsulate is enough for sound deadening? Or would you consider using it on your own premium build?
I think it's enough the thinsulate is originally a sound deadening product as well. It doesn't hurt to put on the rattle trap but we didn't notice any difference with this van and the last one we built without the rattle trap but it's a cheap product.
J'espère que vous pourrez me répondre ... J'ai peut être manqué l'info durant le vidéo 😅 environ combien avez vous investis financièrement pour cette isolation ? Je prepare mon budget Vanlife pour le printemps ☺️
This is by far the best video I’ve seen on van insulation. Perfect timing guys thanks
Thanks 🙏🏼
So to be clear- when you’re stuffing the thinsulate in the cubbies, you’re not gluing it, right? Or are you spraying the back of the thinsulate since you can’t reach in with the can?
No glue needed in the cubbies
I purchased a van that has reflextix already-can I put thinsulate over the top of that? Or does it have to be done in order you did?
It works best to do the reflectix on top of the thinsulate. Save the reflectix and reuse it.
Find out more here- vankookz-van-conversion-masterclass.teachable.com/p/vankookz-van-conversion-masterclass
Love you guys! Great video! ANYONE considering insulation should listen to you Kooks, you’ve been in a van for like a century! 😂🫶🏼
Awwww... Thanks we love you guys too! Thanks for the kind words. Hope you guys are having an awesome time in the Magic Bus! Hope to see you again sometime.
My CBRN gas mask with an M 77 filter should work ? Right ?
Oh yeah.
Is it ok to put only thinsulate? Without reflectix
Yes
That’s like car head liner material.
Would a razor handle knife work better ?
Some nice fabric shears are best for clean cuts. But I’m sure that will work too.
Insulation before wiring?
Yeah why not. I’ve buried wires behind the insulation before but like the wires on top. It’s a great method for first timers that may need to add more wires as they build.
The metalized bubble wrap is not insulation (it actually conducts heat) AND it is not suitable for a vapour barrier.
It’s worked great for many moons
No sound dedening??
The thinsulate is also an acoustic insulation.
Never ever work anything on a Van with wedding rings.
Thanks for looking out. 🙏
Why not just install the thinsulate just like you did the reflectix? The voids don't need to be insulated on the inside and it looks like you spend a lot of time doing it
It’s hard to install your framing on top of the thinsulate on the van ribs. It does helps to insulate the voids to cut back on thermal bridging. You can use a spare foam but I just shove the thinsulate in there pretty good.