I used to have an e36. One day my fan went out and I was stuck in traffic. I had an obd2 reader on and was watching water temps and I got all the way up to 240 degrees and the needle still never moved from the middle. I’ve heard lots of stories of people blowing headgaskets before the temp needle ever moves. The e36 dummy gauge is so dumb it rarely ever moves
Then your sending unit is SHOT.... On some older Ford vehicles, the oil pressure "guage" in the dash was a dummy guage, and the needle would ALWAYS move to the exact same spot on the scale, as long as the engine had ANY amount of oil pressure. The needle of the guage was either on or off. There was NO actual measuring of pressure happening there. Ford tried to make it appear as though when their engines accumulated some miles and got older, that they STILLheld the same amount of oil pressure as when they were new. It was some lying trickery. I don't trust ANY manufacturer that has to make their product appear better than it is by some dishonest fuckery like that. 😤 🤬
@@davelowetsthe Ford Fusion from 2008 has a dummy gauge blew a head gasket as a teen from too much oil but I was confused how it was the oil because the pressure said it was fine could’ve saved myself like 600$
I drove an E36 M3 160k miles. I was driving home and noticed the temp gauge was moving toward the red zone. I got home before it got to red, pulled the water pump, and immediately found the problem. It had plastic water pump impeller that cracked and came off the shaft, so it was not pumping anything.
Even on regular BMW's like a normal e46 325i the temp gauge is just a suggestion. It's + or - 10-15C (or more) off in either direction as a buffer. They just want the needle in the middle. As soon as you start to see the needle move turn it off. You don't know exactly what the temp is. You can check the sensor temp at the bottom of the radiator on the e46 on the gauge readout section.
The older BMW (E36 E46) engines are extremely solid, I'm not surprised to see that it held up so well. The problem with older BMWs is usually their use of crappy plastics that get brittle, crack/disintegrate when they fail and all of the leaks that occur while they're failing. -A former (and future) E46 owner
Been a owner for a little over a year now and yeah the only parts I had to replace from the older owner were the crappy plastic bits like the coolant system and CCV (I messed up my CCV replacement so gonna swap to catch can because I'm not pulling that intake again) but the engine is really solid!
I had a BMW E46 (2000 328i Sport Package in Stahlblau Metallic) that I rebuilt from a low-speed front-end collision car. An Expedition had stopped short going down a hill and pro-rated its front-suspension so the rear was higher up, and the previous owner of the E46 was unable to stop in time and it slid under the aforementioned Expedition, so most of the impact was caught by the hood and cooling system). The airbags never went off. I replaced all the damaged exterior panels but was able to reuse the front bumper and ps front fender; tried going with an Aluminum rad and thermostat housing but both had manufacturing defects when they arrived, so I ordered the OEM bits to get it running and just never got around to getting it sorted for plastic-free. It drove great, definitely a driver's car, but it did like to pop up with random new issues it seems. For instance, I was running the heat one winter and noticed a burning smell, and expected it to be the blower motor, but it turns out the steering wheel slip ring had melted and failed. I bought it for $2k, rebuilt it for $2k more, put 60K more on the odometer, then sold it for $5k. I disclosed the accident damage to the new owner because it was not reported to insurance. I also showed them pictures and all receipts for BMW OEM parts replaced throughout the rebuild. I had gotten the panel gaps perfect and the car drove straight because of the nature of the impact, so it was like nothing ever happened.
Yah good engines but man those plastics suck so muchhh. Rule of thumb tho that dial every goes pass the middle turn off the car and limb it home or tow it to save ur engine
Best thing to do with m52s is routine maintenance on the cooling system. Most cars, like my hondas, you just replace components when they fail. I probably still have original hoses on there (1994 accord), I know I've had to replace the radiator and thermostat a few times though. My e39, after having it overheat at 75k miles, I make sure to replace all the hoses and other components every 50k miles.
@@Mm-wf3wxNot old enough to be able to differentiate a personal opinion on a youtube video on the public web against an actual fact based on cited evidence to the topic.
Fun fact: when you heat up metal to almost its melting point, and cool ot slowly, that is called annealing, which reduces the hardness if the metal and makes it more ductile. If you overheat and engine, and let it cool that has the potential to not fix all your problems and could lead to way worse problems if not checked out.
Not any metal. Just steel, which is an interstitial alloy as opposed to common alloys. Of course, we were talking about steel in this instance so you are right about what's happening.
they would need to hit temperatures much higher than possible for a street car. i dont think there is any issue at all if you let the engine cool down slowly, besides there is nothing you can do short from replacing the whole block if your worried about your engine becoming more ductile and the metal failing...
@@BogeyTheBear Dude just no. Different other alloys or cold worked metals experience the same drop in strength when getting heated and gradually cooled. Steel doesnt even base it's strength on the presence on interstitial atoms but rather the macro phases of perlite or martensite.
Anneling actually relieves stress. Cooling it fast causes issues (cold coolant in a hot car.) I produce glass color for a living. All glass is anneled to prevent cracking. Metal is very similar. ( To annel it needs to be so hot it almost melts) Depends on the material , everything has an anneling temp. Except mabye quartz.? (Low coedficent of expansion ) Anneling , the molocules can realign into a more uniform pattern, reliving stress. Can it warp metal? Sure , if it was warped in its original cast shape before it was decked/ machined.
In the early-mid 00s when we were pushing the m52 headgaskets were our #1 enemy. I started calling all of us "hose squeezers" cause every time any of us walked past the car on the dyno we would squeeze the upper rad hose to see if the coolant system was pressurized. When we did the first 1000whp example we ended up O-ringing the block.
Who cares? They're doing what they're SUPPOSED to be doing.... 🤷🏻 ALL engines in ANY car would look like that if you took the hood off and bounced the motor off the rev limiter. It's a completely NORMAL thing that will happen.
@@davelowets nah. an engine only moves that much when a mount is spearated, good mounts dont move more than maybe 20-30mm if its hydraulic engine mounts, good oem rubber mounts dont move more than ~10mm. i built an extra mount from the head to inner fender and used new oem rubber mounts in my volvo 740 1987 and the engine doesn't move more than 1-2mm, driving it you would think it's solid mounted drivetrain almost haha (gearbox and exhaust is solid mounted but who cares about vibrations in a "racecar"? lol)
Great tear down and explanation! I'll add something from my experiences. When removing the head bolts its a good idea to keep track of how tight, or hard, they are to loosen. Recently had a 2.4L toyota engine that was overheating. Went to remove the cylinder head and 3 bolts took almost no torque to loosen. Instantly new something was way wrong. Turns out the threads in the block pulled out due to the overheat. Ended up installing steel inserts in the bolt for all 10 bolts, and getting the cylinder head rebuilt. Car is running perfect.
BMW engines are scrap once they overheat for that reason, you'll need to put inserts on every stud. It's cheaper and easier to just buy another engine.
@@user-ue6iv2rd1n the insert kit I bought for the Toyota wasn't too expensive really cuz you're paying for the tools that you can use on multiple engines. It really wasn't that hard to use. But it makes a huge mess to drill out all the holes
Ik I'm a bit late to this, but I would genuinely love it if you could throw up more direct video comparison of the same tests but on a "good" engine. Like what does that water leak test look like on an engine with totally acceptable amounts of leakage so I can physically see how bad this one is, for example. Would greatly improve my ability as a viewer to relate with the content. LOVE what you guys do!
To add to this, that extra extra step, and maybe this would be too much and transform the content into something entirely not what you intended it to be, which I totally understand, would be to have comparative footage for things that are fine with his engine. Like the piston rings, for example. What does it look like if they are dirty and are not functioning properly. You described it very well verbally, I think a video cut in, maybe like in a smaller windows so we can still see you talking about it, that shows what a "fail" on the position rings would look like.
This is probably my favorite video you guys have made. I’ve pulled these BMW straight six motors apart so many times on my own cars and a few buddies. It’s just really cool to see what YOURS looks like on the inside. Probably sounds really dumb. But I love it
I had a Chevy Caprice which blew a thermostat. My only chance was to drive it home about 10 kilometers without coolant. when I got home the engine was so hot that when I pulled out the dipstick rain that hit it instantly sizzled away. Dropped in a new thermostat and an oil change and that baby ran like a Swiss clock without zero problems. Gotta love those Oldsmobile V8s.
10 km at low RPM/load on an engine that started off cold is probably fine. Warming an engine enough to open the thermostat usually takes 5-10 minutes unless it's like 100F degrees or something. A blown thermostat also is usually at least partly open, so you get less coolant but still some flowing through. Dipsticks will get hot anyway, so that's not anything special.
@@nunyabusiness896 Yeah but I had already driven 10 km and then the thermostat broke in a way that It was not able to open so all the coolant spilled out and boiled away so the engine was completely without coolant. Surely at low rpm cause it is a V8 but I assure you that it was properly overheated.
had a radiator blow in my 07 ram 1 week after i bought it brought it to the dealer he threw stop leak in which destroyed the water pump and thermostat had a 10 mile drive to work all backroads took it like that for a week before i could afford a new water pump thermostat and radiator and it runs perfect to this day and almost daily go up to 4500 RPMs gotta love those gen 3 5.7s reliability
This video hurt as a E46 owner as i feel like i lost a brother but at the same time it gave me more faith in my car to see that thing abused and honestly be "okay" and i learned a good bit about the engine so it was a worthy sacrifice
Wym bro I have that same car, an E36 328i and I was on the edge of my seat looking at them open that engine, I loved this video, those m50,m52,m54 can take a ton of abuse, this is something we bmw owners already now but it's great to see the donut guys prove it
@@lMikeDuke oh don't get me wrong I loved the video I just didn't like seeing a engine get "destroyed" and I have only owned my car for a little over a year and I got it as a junker so I'm still learning it's limits
donut crew , i genuinely hope you guys rule the world one day. like 5 years y’all been highlighting my lunchtimes with a good video to watch. thank you, i will forever be grateful and a huge fan of you guys, love you all
It's been great seeing you guys be able to grow into building/fixing/breaking down your own vehicles. I hope you do a hi/low on muscle cars at some point. You fellas and Driving 4 Answers are in my opinion the best cartubers. I hope you keep up the great work for many years to come, and have fun the entire time!
This is why I subbed in the first place. You guys do a lot of cool, entertaining stuff on the regular and I enjoy most of your content... but when I first found you guys I stuck around for both Zach running MoneyPit & Jeremiah running B2B. I'm not really a "car guy", but I come from a technical background professionally so I always like seeing the breakdowns and diagnosing process of what's wrong, how you figure that out, and how to fix it, even if I'll probably never actually have to do that myself.
I dunno why I love that you cut the music out and just had the boys’ arhythmic engine-bongos playing in the background for a bit, but I do. Props to the editor, you got a genuine, big ass smile out of me (on a day I really needed it)
Engine reconditioner here - your head is likely scrap at this point. It’s fine to skim the head, however there’s a good chance it’s not going to last long term. Once you overheat aluminium, it loses its hardness and will likely have head gasket issues in future. A good shop will have a tester for this. Also, if the head gasket side is bent, so is the camshaft side, so you will experience excessive wear on the camshaft and cam caps. You can straighten the head to some degree by superheating small spots of alloy on the camshaft side to make the top side of the head contract, however the material hardness issue remains and this added stress could cause cracking later on. The valves generally won’t seal after a significant overheat event as the seats warp, which can be fixed by recutting the seats and refacing the valves, however the aluminium around the seats may have softened and loosened the press fit of the seats, potentially causing them to crack and drop out later on. You could remove the seats and machine the sockets to refit new seats, but at this point, the best fix here is to get a brand new head.
@@davelowets as I said, lots of factors at play here, and in my opinion, it’s not worth the risk of having a fully rebuilt engine turned into a paperweight because of a $10 valve seat falling out.
@mayaswellbethewifesaccount7625 Never had that happen either.....🤷🏻 A head would have to be REALLY overheated BAD before leaky valves and falling out seats would become an issue. At that point, the warpage would be obviously severe enough that a minor surface cut wouldn't take all the warp out of it anyway, and chances are that it will be cracked also. Yep, THEN it would be time for a new/used head. If it were warped so bad that the cam caps would be wearing funny, you'd easily be able to feel that by turning the cam by hand. I've never come across a head that was overheated and warped that bad. I'm sure it can happen, but it would take a total idiot to get the engine that hot, and I've not come across that much of an idiot yet in the hundreds of head gasket jobs I've done. Edit: I take that back... I DID have a valve seat come loose once on a Briggs&Stratton riding mower engine, because it overheated as the engine was packed full of grass under the tins.
@@davelowets many people are ignorant and just drive their vehicles until they stop.. so with that in mind, after a good overheat event which has caused a “gasket failure”, is often (but not always) a result of the head contracting and causing little pressure on the fire ring, causing the gasket to blow. As I said before, on an alloy head you can often see the brown/black discolouration accompanied by a ridge where the gasket has pressed into the now softened alloy. By the time you can feel this fretting, the head usually has 006”+ bend, and many heads we see have up to .030” bend and were still being driven. While tensioned to the block, only the fretting is an issue as the bolts prevent the warpage from being apparent. You could slap the head back on and the head will straighten back out, but that doesn’t solve the hardness or fretting issue, and machining the bend back into it isn’t an option (unless you’re familiar with jo8e heads on minimum thickness at the rear) 😜 We use a vacuum tester to check the valves for correct sealing, but at home you can pour fuel into the port and if not seated it will pour out past the valve. If you were to remove the springs and lap or blue the valves, you’ll see the valve only contacts the seat on 2 points opposite each other. This is a sign that the interference on the seat has changed as the head has expanded and contracted in different axis’s. Now the reason I mentioned .006” or more of bend, is that the cam typically has around .002” clearance, and as you can imagine, when you tighten the cam caps at either end, the cam won’t necessarily lock solid but it won’t spin freely as it should. Most cams are cast iron, but many modern vehicles have cams that are machined hollow steel tubes with lobes pressed on. If you continue to force a cast iron cam to bend with every rotation, it will eventually fatigue and snap, which I have seen dozens of times from people ignoring my advice. We do around 80-100 jobs a month, and have done for the last 40 something years, so just because you haven’t seen it doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen.
I had a similar issue with my 86 Datsun 720 pickup. Had the Z24 engine (awful design) and was constantly trying to melt itself out of the engine bay. Finally took the head off figuring out it was pretty warped. Thankfully I had access to CNC milling machine at the fab shop I worked at so I took the head in on a weekend and shaved off around 12 thousandths to make it as flat as possible. Lapped the valves and reset the lashing, put it all back together and it ran great. Then two weeks later it blew a goofball sized hole out the exhaust side of the #3 cylinder 😂 found out later the auto trans was really bad and was putting the engine under too much load just trying to go down the road so it blew itself apart
@@davelowets I don't care 😂 believe whatever you want bud, doesn't change the fact that I still did it and the people I actually care about "believing" were there for it. Some random guy's opinion, who's existence was null to me before this comment, doesn't really matter to me in the end. I just like sharing my story with other car enthusiasts because we've all had some problematic vehicles that taught us valuable lessons.
Maybe some useful info: that maximum skim/warpage tolerance is also there because you risk breaking the camshaft. If you machine the head when it's too far gone, the bottom may be flat but the rest is still warped. So when you mount the cam(s), you bend it, and eventually, it breaks. My automotive teacher told me this has happened several times at the BMW dealership he worked at.
It’s also nice to see y’all going back to your roots. Educational content that’s fun and enjoyable to watch. Not dumping on fans for making suggestions or asking questions.
I love this video. I am a hardware guy in the computer field, and while this this is a completely different platform... I go through the same steps on computers and arcade boards, to see what's wrong, what can fail, what to test, and how to fix. Not only that, making it fun, and easy to watch and understand. When I get a second car, I'm absolutely planning on having fun with my current one (2011 Jeep Compass) to make it as fun as possible (including wanting to do an engine swap with a FWD honda engine), just to learn.
@@arnaudmeert1527 yeah.... I've already had to take a metal file to the pins on the PCM, because of how the computer was talking. Popped them off and found some discolored pins.
@@CormacHollandI love working on boards, especially when I can take one thing, and make it into another. I'm converting a PS3 USB arcade stick to Xbox series, soldering the wires to a cheap certified Microsoft controller. I love my fighting games, and their controller ban basically eliminated every arcade stick I own. I'd absolutely love to trade knowledge if you were local.
My '95 Miata overheated last summer. Me and a roommate went for a quick trip to the train station to pick up my bicycle. Probably somewhere on the 5 min trip back either the thermostat gave out or the 27+ year old line ripped while my roomate was driving and I was cycling back home. The engine ran with barely any coolant for all little while but always below 3000rpm and never any faster than 30km/h. Seeing my roomate panicking next to a smoking engine bay gave me quite the scare but I had a local mechanic do a compression check on all cylinders and they all were totally fine. Engine stil runs great aswell, gotta love japanese reliability!
I wish they had internet & car videos like these when I was 16 yrs old to learn about engines. Old people today talk as if no smartphones around was some great thing. I'm 51 and love having the internet, computer, Walkman/music player, am/fm radio, TV/video player all fit in my pocket. If I took a smartphone back to high school in 1988, I'd be considered a God.
@@douglasreid699 Good luck with that, on a warm day a car's cooling system is roughly at boiling temp, so you're forcing your CPU/GPU to be at throttling temp before you even open a game/program.
My father has a 60y/o Italian coupe. In the late 1980´s he overheated it twice, both times rather seriously, then he left it in the corner of the garage until 2018 when I decided to fix it (it was also rusty, the wiring was bad, the brakes needed not just overhaul, but a total rebuild to accept other disks due to the original ones to being available anymore, and other stuff). The engine was iron block with an aluminum head and oil pan. When we disassembled it, we have found out that almost all the piston rings are snapped into multiple pieces, and almost all the ribs on all the pistons were broken. The head was bent, and there was some carbon buildup on the valves. However, the important things - cylinder walls and bearings were perfectly okay. So we had the head machined, cleaned it, bought new pistons and rings, put it back together, and it runs better than ever. Despite being overheated 2 times so much that it ceased to work.
I once had to repair an N52 engine after it had overheated. Not only did I have to get the head machined all the way to the max tolerance and use a thicker head gasket, I also needed to repair all the head bolt threads in the block with a special jig. It's a bad feeling when you're on the 3rd stage of the torque sequence and the threads rip out of the magnesium alloy block.
I think you guys completely misunderstood the measurements when testing the head warp. 2000th of an inch is WIDER than 6000ths of an inch. You needed to go to a SMALLER number in order to test how bad the warp was. You tried with thinner and thinner strips.
Being a machinist who machines and builds anything from a standard rebuild to wild shit on a daily.... I've started to hate when they go into engines. So many things that just aren't right. Like spraying air into the ports to check valves. You can do that on a fresh valve job that's perfect and show a leak. Air pressure overcomes the springs. Seen many of valve jobs sold that way when it would of ran just fine lol.
Yeah, the pressure inside cylinder is applied from the other side and "seals" the valves harder. They do it backwards, forcing them open. IDK what they trying to test here.
@@donutsleader using feelers to test the surface of the heads condition is pretty dumb too. I can't count the amount of times I've been told "just take 4thou it's only warped 4thou" and it takes 30 to fully clean up lol
Air is being sent through the plug hole into the cylinder as is standard w leakdown testing. They ain't doing anything backwards. You two clowns are guilty of bass-ackward-ness by commenting before figuring out wtf's actually goin on. smh fcol
They’re talking about overheating, meanwhile I can’t get over them blown to death engine mounts, watching that engine dance around in that engine bay 😂
Interesting video, but since no one is going to overheat their engine by holding it at redline under no load while sitting still in neutral, I don't think this video is particularly meaningful. A much better test IMO would have been to simulate a realistic situation by draining the coolant and then driving it around until it died. If the engine was under a load while it overheated, I suspect we would have seen much more damage to the pistons, rings, cylinders, and bearings from the higher cylinder pressures and termperatures.
We warped a mk4 2.0L head at a race recently. It could still run but barely held compression. The exhaust header was keeping the aluminum head from warping so much so that the valve lifters seized when we removed it.
Correct me if I'm wrong but when testing warping, a 2000th of an inch is if you divide an inch by 2000 and take 1 part. To test if it's more warped than the tolerance allows for you should have gone with 1000th of an inch (1/1000) .
22:31 a lot of people used to talk a lot of smack about aluminum heads when they first hit the market. But with a lot of people have started to realize is aluminum heads will fail long before anything else does and heads are the easiest things to fits. Replaced and diagnose. You are literally putting the failure point in the best position to fix quick and cheap.
The quality, the ability to explain everything through humorous satire, and relation to irl problems and profound explanations with animations always amazes me. Ty Donut)
Donut's ability to spend a shitload of money on making an exceptionally clean car a total piece of shit is staggering. Dude this e36 had all the options, leather interior, mint paint, zero dents and no mods.
I stopped this video at 6:26.... literally wheeping due to the anticlimactic destruction of a beautiful e36 motor to comment on a video for the first time in my life..... All straight sixes go to heaven. Anyone else see that movie?
I love that longer form, calmer paced content. I had stoped watching your video because the short format, supercut and over exagerated enery video were off puting. but this is great and has me want to go back to watching you regularly
Pretty impressed with the old bimmer she held up well. It just shows how many of the blown up ones you see are more on the owners negligence either maintenance or poor modifications
Donut is probably the only channel where I actually watch their ad/sponsor portion of the video purely because they're clever, funny, and entertaining. Props to you guys. 👍 I'm sure they have plenty of happy sponsors.
If you guys are ever in a jam, and your car starts to overheat. Turn the heat on MAX and pull over safely, let the car cool down. Don't try to drive, wait a couple hours. Funny enough I learned this from King of the Hill, that truck episode saved me.
@@user-ue6iv2rd1n I understand just don't let things frustrate you, it's better to sell a car in decent working order. That way you can get just a little bit more money, when you dump it and get something else you like.
That moment when Jerry sang the national anthem while redlining the engine only to stomp the gas at the finale for it to basically explode... *chefs kiss*
As a guy who's just had to scrap out a perfectly good work truck because the radiator spooged the coolant and let the engine run without cooling, I feel this in my soul.
Really helpful video dudes my dad used to be a mechanic but I never got to play on the inside of a car like that and had no idea what over heating could cause to the engine, but could tell you that blowing a coolant hose would have got you to overheat that engine super fast as just happened to me back on valentine’s 💔
Dudes. Thank you for coming together and giving us exactly what the funk we need. Yall hit every area here, I cant even believe it. Honestly so happy that you guys know where we need to go but its hard to get there. Ones who truly appreciate it know that. Keep This up. We love you ❤. NEVER TOO COLD AT REDLINE. for the nerds: pressure wise, you likely wont be able to even see that hurdle before you overheat a multiple cylinders thus causing detonation due to heatsink. because if we could keep it cooler, it wouldnt fail nonmatter the pressure untill were defeaing the bolt force specs. Thank yall again. Happy yall are keeping working for a better source of content and a more quality interaction between yall and ur viewers. ❤🎉🎉🎉 oh and for the nay-shmidts. since you dont believe me the africans and the middle east are both good friends for learning these capabilities and lowering redline allowing the engine to forever be able to recover at base horsepower. ❤ ciao.
this is peak automotive content. Y'all were made for this. keep going. Also, It's not "purposely breaking" something when it's for science! so don't feel bad!
A man enters the race track and sees Jeremiah singing the USA's Anthem while overheating a German car.
That's not the national anthem but the image is still funny 😂😂
*As his entourage of hooligans salute like fucking Marines 😂😂😂😂😂
@@MRGENERATIONADDHOO-RAH!!! 🤣
A man enters a track and hears a roaring engine and guys with hands on their hearts singing what he assumes is the anthem.
He was singing 'America the Beautiful'. The US National Anthem is 'The Star-Spangled Banner'.
BMW owners taking extensive notes right now..
bimmerlations 13:10 if its leaking oil it has oil 🗣
@RepentandbelieveinJesusChrist-amen but I kinda unrelatedly
sure am lol
*expensive
VW owners as well, the coolant leaks are brutal 💀
Engine mounts fighting for their lives 😂
Was gonna come here to talk about that 💀
commented before I saw this but my god the engine almost jumped right out of the engine bay
what engine mounts? they're already dead!
Looks like they removed them ahead of time. 😂
He knew what was coming and was trying to run away.
I used to have an e36. One day my fan went out and I was stuck in traffic. I had an obd2 reader on and was watching water temps and I got all the way up to 240 degrees and the needle still never moved from the middle. I’ve heard lots of stories of people blowing headgaskets before the temp needle ever moves. The e36 dummy gauge is so dumb it rarely ever moves
Then your sending unit is SHOT....
On some older Ford vehicles, the oil pressure "guage" in the dash was a dummy guage, and the needle would ALWAYS move to the exact same spot on the scale, as long as the engine had ANY amount of oil pressure. The needle of the guage was either on or off. There was NO actual measuring of pressure happening there.
Ford tried to make it appear as though when their engines accumulated some miles and got older, that they STILLheld the same amount of oil pressure as when they were new. It was some lying trickery.
I don't trust ANY manufacturer that has to make their product appear better than it is by some dishonest fuckery like that. 😤 🤬
@@davelowetsthe Ford Fusion from 2008 has a dummy gauge blew a head gasket as a teen from too much oil but I was confused how it was the oil because the pressure said it was fine could’ve saved myself like 600$
Mine definitely moves to pinging red when it’s hot. Only overheated once when my fans stopped working. Gauge did exactly what it was supposed to
I drove an E36 M3 160k miles. I was driving home and noticed the temp gauge was moving toward the red zone. I got home before it got to red, pulled the water pump, and immediately found the problem. It had plastic water pump impeller that cracked and came off the shaft, so it was not pumping anything.
Even on regular BMW's like a normal e46 325i the temp gauge is just a suggestion. It's + or - 10-15C (or more) off in either direction as a buffer. They just want the needle in the middle. As soon as you start to see the needle move turn it off. You don't know exactly what the temp is. You can check the sensor temp at the bottom of the radiator on the e46 on the gauge readout section.
Petition to bring back science garage. ⬇️
hope they try and bring it back with a new host since the old one left
@@LAIDAN22 oh I didn’t know that he did that sucks
Bart is probably still working at donut; he’s probably just back to his regular “behind the scenes” job.
@@QuattroGranados sadly I miss it science garage was super cool
The older BMW (E36 E46) engines are extremely solid, I'm not surprised to see that it held up so well. The problem with older BMWs is usually their use of crappy plastics that get brittle, crack/disintegrate when they fail and all of the leaks that occur while they're failing. -A former (and future) E46 owner
Been a owner for a little over a year now and yeah the only parts I had to replace from the older owner were the crappy plastic bits like the coolant system and CCV (I messed up my CCV replacement so gonna swap to catch can because I'm not pulling that intake again) but the engine is really solid!
I had a BMW E46 (2000 328i Sport Package in Stahlblau Metallic) that I rebuilt from a low-speed front-end collision car.
An Expedition had stopped short going down a hill and pro-rated its front-suspension so the rear was higher up, and the previous owner of the E46 was unable to stop in time and it slid under the aforementioned Expedition, so most of the impact was caught by the hood and cooling system).
The airbags never went off. I replaced all the damaged exterior panels but was able to reuse the front bumper and ps front fender; tried going with an Aluminum rad and thermostat housing but both had manufacturing defects when they arrived, so I ordered the OEM bits to get it running and just never got around to getting it sorted for plastic-free.
It drove great, definitely a driver's car, but it did like to pop up with random new issues it seems. For instance, I was running the heat one winter and noticed a burning smell, and expected it to be the blower motor, but it turns out the steering wheel slip ring had melted and failed.
I bought it for $2k, rebuilt it for $2k more, put 60K more on the odometer, then sold it for $5k. I disclosed the accident damage to the new owner because it was not reported to insurance. I also showed them pictures and all receipts for BMW OEM parts replaced throughout the rebuild. I had gotten the panel gaps perfect and the car drove straight because of the nature of the impact, so it was like nothing ever happened.
Yah good engines but man those plastics suck so muchhh. Rule of thumb tho that dial every goes pass the middle turn off the car and limb it home or tow it to save ur engine
Best thing to do with m52s is routine maintenance on the cooling system. Most cars, like my hondas, you just replace components when they fail. I probably still have original hoses on there (1994 accord), I know I've had to replace the radiator and thermostat a few times though. My e39, after having it overheat at 75k miles, I make sure to replace all the hoses and other components every 50k miles.
Why no company step up and make more robust plastic spare parts ?
The graveside skit was funny as hell when you threw the wrench & the dirt on the engine.
Only 10 year olds thought it was funny
@@Mm-wf3wxIt was funny. May be your humor has expired?
@@nasirhussain6083 Nah he just got the grandpa humor
@@nasirhussain6083 not old or have “expired humor” I’m old enough to realize this is cringe 😂
@@Mm-wf3wxNot old enough to be able to differentiate a personal opinion on a youtube video on the public web against an actual fact based on cited evidence to the topic.
Fun fact: when you heat up metal to almost its melting point, and cool ot slowly, that is called annealing, which reduces the hardness if the metal and makes it more ductile. If you overheat and engine, and let it cool that has the potential to not fix all your problems and could lead to way worse problems if not checked out.
Not any metal. Just steel, which is an interstitial alloy as opposed to common alloys. Of course, we were talking about steel in this instance so you are right about what's happening.
they would need to hit temperatures much higher than possible for a street car. i dont think there is any issue at all if you let the engine cool down slowly, besides there is nothing you can do short from replacing the whole block if your worried about your engine becoming more ductile and the metal failing...
@@BogeyTheBear Dude just no. Different other alloys or cold worked metals experience the same drop in strength when getting heated and gradually cooled. Steel doesnt even base it's strength on the presence on interstitial atoms but rather the macro phases of perlite or martensite.
Anneling actually relieves stress. Cooling it fast causes issues (cold coolant in a hot car.) I produce glass color for a living. All glass is anneled to prevent cracking. Metal is very similar. ( To annel it needs to be so hot it almost melts) Depends on the material , everything has an anneling temp. Except mabye quartz.? (Low coedficent of expansion ) Anneling , the molocules can realign into a more uniform pattern, reliving stress. Can it warp metal? Sure , if it was warped in its original cast shape before it was decked/ machined.
@@BogeyTheBearHeads are aluminum.
10:40 damn that sound effect brought back so many memories
Yes!! Newer generation will have no idea what that was…
I wanna know what it was. Not fair, tell me.
@@HanginOffThaReel it's a sound effect from the earlier Tony Hawk Skateboarding games
His intrusive thoughts won. This is something I would wonder at 3 AM! 😂
I’m watching in Australia right now, and it is 3:25 AM.
Stop sub boting @lakelol
@@NBAreelsZzwhen I lived in Japan I used to watch these at like midnight too😂
@RepentandbelieveinJesusChrist- Listen to this man, he speaks the truth!
@@furnacego2164nah, it's all lies
In the early-mid 00s when we were pushing the m52 headgaskets were our #1 enemy. I started calling all of us "hose squeezers" cause every time any of us walked past the car on the dyno we would squeeze the upper rad hose to see if the coolant system was pressurized. When we did the first 1000whp example we ended up O-ringing the block.
Stock M52 head takes 800 horses
@@toxiccrafterz That's child's play. My stock one made 3000 horses.
@@SmOgER10 3000 doesn't even bother m52
@@toxiccrafterzyeah mine made 3500 on gate
@@toxiccrafterz My ass can propel wind turbine up to 850 after decent burrito
2:07 DUDE THE ENGINE MOUNTS
Yeah, the engine had enough and really wanted to get out of the car 😂
The engine went: GET ME OUT OF HERE
Who cares? They're doing what they're SUPPOSED to be doing.... 🤷🏻
ALL engines in ANY car would look like that if you took the hood off and bounced the motor off the rev limiter. It's a completely NORMAL thing that will happen.
chill dude
@@davelowets
@@davelowets nah. an engine only moves that much when a mount is spearated, good mounts dont move more than maybe 20-30mm if its hydraulic engine mounts, good oem rubber mounts dont move more than ~10mm. i built an extra mount from the head to inner fender and used new oem rubber mounts in my volvo 740 1987 and the engine doesn't move more than 1-2mm, driving it you would think it's solid mounted drivetrain almost haha (gearbox and exhaust is solid mounted but who cares about vibrations in a "racecar"? lol)
Great tear down and explanation! I'll add something from my experiences. When removing the head bolts its a good idea to keep track of how tight, or hard, they are to loosen. Recently had a 2.4L toyota engine that was overheating. Went to remove the cylinder head and 3 bolts took almost no torque to loosen. Instantly new something was way wrong. Turns out the threads in the block pulled out due to the overheat. Ended up installing steel inserts in the bolt for all 10 bolts, and getting the cylinder head rebuilt. Car is running perfect.
That's because Toyota uses mush to cast their engine blocks... 🤮
BMW engines are scrap once they overheat for that reason, you'll need to put inserts on every stud. It's cheaper and easier to just buy another engine.
@@user-ue6iv2rd1n the insert kit I bought for the Toyota wasn't too expensive really cuz you're paying for the tools that you can use on multiple engines. It really wasn't that hard to use. But it makes a huge mess to drill out all the holes
Ik I'm a bit late to this, but I would genuinely love it if you could throw up more direct video comparison of the same tests but on a "good" engine. Like what does that water leak test look like on an engine with totally acceptable amounts of leakage so I can physically see how bad this one is, for example. Would greatly improve my ability as a viewer to relate with the content.
LOVE what you guys do!
To add to this, that extra extra step, and maybe this would be too much and transform the content into something entirely not what you intended it to be, which I totally understand, would be to have comparative footage for things that are fine with his engine. Like the piston rings, for example. What does it look like if they are dirty and are not functioning properly. You described it very well verbally, I think a video cut in, maybe like in a smaller windows so we can still see you talking about it, that shows what a "fail" on the position rings would look like.
This is the type of video that made me fall in love with Donut. Educational, entertaining, and awesome cast.
The educational part is awesome, but the "funny" part was worse than an Adam Sandler "comedy"
@@pharkasj hyperbole much? 🙄
@@ConnorHammond sorry, i don't understand the question. what does it mean ?
This episode is top tier, you guys did good work and the camera work and edit is 10/10
This is probably my favorite video you guys have made. I’ve pulled these BMW straight six motors apart so many times on my own cars and a few buddies. It’s just really cool to see what YOURS looks like on the inside. Probably sounds really dumb. But I love it
Not dumb👍😝🙂... I was interested to hear your perspective 👍🛵
Not at all! You hear horror stories of bad previous owners and you start to wonder what kinda damage is in your car :o
10:40 can we talk about the fact that does camshafts are GOLDEN
Definitely my two favorite guys on Donut. No fluff, no loud sounds, just some engineers enjoying some engineering 🤌🏼
heh they work on engines and they enjoy the inventions of mechanical engineers
14:01 you can see the warp
I had a Chevy Caprice which blew a thermostat. My only chance was to drive it home about 10 kilometers without coolant. when I got home the engine was so hot that when I pulled out the dipstick rain that hit it instantly sizzled away. Dropped in a new thermostat and an oil change and that baby ran like a Swiss clock without zero problems. Gotta love those Oldsmobile V8s.
10 km at low RPM/load on an engine that started off cold is probably fine. Warming an engine enough to open the thermostat usually takes 5-10 minutes unless it's like 100F degrees or something. A blown thermostat also is usually at least partly open, so you get less coolant but still some flowing through. Dipsticks will get hot anyway, so that's not anything special.
@@nunyabusiness896 Yeah but I had already driven 10 km and then the thermostat broke in a way that It was not able to open so all the coolant spilled out and boiled away so the engine was completely without coolant. Surely at low rpm cause it is a V8 but I assure you that it was properly overheated.
@@masterkaljami6822shocked you made it home, one tough engine. bet it needed a tune-up though lol
had a radiator blow in my 07 ram 1 week after i bought it brought it to the dealer he threw stop leak in which destroyed the water pump and thermostat had a 10 mile drive to work all backroads took it like that for a week before i could afford a new water pump thermostat and radiator and it runs perfect to this day and almost daily go up to 4500 RPMs gotta love those gen 3 5.7s reliability
The Olds 307 was a TOUGH engine
This video hurt as a E46 owner as i feel like i lost a brother but at the same time it gave me more faith in my car to see that thing abused and honestly be "okay" and i learned a good bit about the engine so it was a worthy sacrifice
Exactly my thoughts as well. I love my E46
Wym bro I have that same car, an E36 328i and I was on the edge of my seat looking at them open that engine, I loved this video, those m50,m52,m54 can take a ton of abuse, this is something we bmw owners already now but it's great to see the donut guys prove it
@@lMikeDuke oh don't get me wrong I loved the video I just didn't like seeing a engine get "destroyed" and I have only owned my car for a little over a year and I got it as a junker so I'm still learning it's limits
it's ok, but the repair cost exceeds the value of the (repaired) car if it's done properly by an expert.
@@RadsZerich The engines are worthless you'd just buy another.
donut crew , i genuinely hope you guys rule the world one day. like 5 years y’all been highlighting my lunchtimes with a good video to watch. thank you, i will forever be grateful and a huge fan of you guys, love you all
"Rule the world"?? 😳
That's going just a LITTLE far, ain't it?? 🤔
I love these kind of car videos. Take them apart and learn. Good stuff, guys
5:38 I'm legit crying on this part for that engine. I'd be shitting tears if I were there.
The evolution of donut media has been so cool to see. Would it be too weird to do an up to speed on yourselves? 🤷♂️
It's been great seeing you guys be able to grow into building/fixing/breaking down your own vehicles. I hope you do a hi/low on muscle cars at some point. You fellas and Driving 4 Answers are in my opinion the best cartubers. I hope you keep up the great work for many years to come, and have fun the entire time!
I like the idea with musclecars, but how about hi/low lowriders?😎
@@Cody_Forselow car could be a lowrider and hi car could be a donk lol, low and high cars
@@Cody_Forse they'd need sandro lol
Driving 4 Answers is great!
Bfs😢ff
This is why I subbed in the first place.
You guys do a lot of cool, entertaining stuff on the regular and I enjoy most of your content... but when I first found you guys I stuck around for both Zach running MoneyPit & Jeremiah running B2B. I'm not really a "car guy", but I come from a technical background professionally so I always like seeing the breakdowns and diagnosing process of what's wrong, how you figure that out, and how to fix it, even if I'll probably never actually have to do that myself.
I dunno why I love that you cut the music out and just had the boys’ arhythmic engine-bongos playing in the background for a bit, but I do.
Props to the editor, you got a genuine, big ass smile out of me (on a day I really needed it)
Thanks!
Engine reconditioner here - your head is likely scrap at this point. It’s fine to skim the head, however there’s a good chance it’s not going to last long term. Once you overheat aluminium, it loses its hardness and will likely have head gasket issues in future. A good shop will have a tester for this. Also, if the head gasket side is bent, so is the camshaft side, so you will experience excessive wear on the camshaft and cam caps. You can straighten the head to some degree by superheating small spots of alloy on the camshaft side to make the top side of the head contract, however the material hardness issue remains and this added stress could cause cracking later on. The valves generally won’t seal after a significant overheat event as the seats warp, which can be fixed by recutting the seats and refacing the valves, however the aluminium around the seats may have softened and loosened the press fit of the seats, potentially causing them to crack and drop out later on. You could remove the seats and machine the sockets to refit new seats, but at this point, the best fix here is to get a brand new head.
Ack.... I've given them haircuts, and reused warped heads ALL the time, and haven't had one prematurely fail yet..
They're going to 2J swap it anyway too, good to know though
@@davelowets as I said, lots of factors at play here, and in my opinion, it’s not worth the risk of having a fully rebuilt engine turned into a paperweight because of a $10 valve seat falling out.
@mayaswellbethewifesaccount7625 Never had that happen either.....🤷🏻
A head would have to be REALLY overheated BAD before leaky valves and falling out seats would become an issue. At that point, the warpage would be obviously severe enough that a minor surface cut wouldn't take all the warp out of it anyway, and chances are that it will be cracked also.
Yep, THEN it would be time for a new/used head. If it were warped so bad that the cam caps would be wearing funny, you'd easily be able to feel that by turning the cam by hand. I've never come across a head that was overheated and warped that bad. I'm sure it can happen, but it would take a total idiot to get the engine that hot, and I've not come across that much of an idiot yet in the hundreds of head gasket jobs I've done.
Edit: I take that back... I DID have a valve seat come loose once on a Briggs&Stratton riding mower engine, because it overheated as the engine was packed full of grass under the tins.
@@davelowets many people are ignorant and just drive their vehicles until they stop.. so with that in mind, after a good overheat event which has caused a “gasket failure”, is often (but not always) a result of the head contracting and causing little pressure on the fire ring, causing the gasket to blow. As I said before, on an alloy head you can often see the brown/black discolouration accompanied by a ridge where the gasket has pressed into the now softened alloy. By the time you can feel this fretting, the head usually has 006”+ bend, and many heads we see have up to .030” bend and were still being driven. While tensioned to the block, only the fretting is an issue as the bolts prevent the warpage from being apparent. You could slap the head back on and the head will straighten back out, but that doesn’t solve the hardness or fretting issue, and machining the bend back into it isn’t an option (unless you’re familiar with jo8e heads on minimum thickness at the rear) 😜 We use a vacuum tester to check the valves for correct sealing, but at home you can pour fuel into the port and if not seated it will pour out past the valve. If you were to remove the springs and lap or blue the valves, you’ll see the valve only contacts the seat on 2 points opposite each other. This is a sign that the interference on the seat has changed as the head has expanded and contracted in different axis’s. Now the reason I mentioned .006” or more of bend, is that the cam typically has around .002” clearance, and as you can imagine, when you tighten the cam caps at either end, the cam won’t necessarily lock solid but it won’t spin freely as it should. Most cams are cast iron, but many modern vehicles have cams that are machined hollow steel tubes with lobes pressed on. If you continue to force a cast iron cam to bend with every rotation, it will eventually fatigue and snap, which I have seen dozens of times from people ignoring my advice. We do around 80-100 jobs a month, and have done for the last 40 something years, so just because you haven’t seen it doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen.
I had a similar issue with my 86 Datsun 720 pickup. Had the Z24 engine (awful design) and was constantly trying to melt itself out of the engine bay. Finally took the head off figuring out it was pretty warped. Thankfully I had access to CNC milling machine at the fab shop I worked at so I took the head in on a weekend and shaved off around 12 thousandths to make it as flat as possible. Lapped the valves and reset the lashing, put it all back together and it ran great. Then two weeks later it blew a goofball sized hole out the exhaust side of the #3 cylinder 😂 found out later the auto trans was really bad and was putting the engine under too much load just trying to go down the road so it blew itself apart
C'mon man.... I am NOT buying that story.. 😒
@@davelowets I don't care 😂 believe whatever you want bud, doesn't change the fact that I still did it and the people I actually care about "believing" were there for it. Some random guy's opinion, who's existence was null to me before this comment, doesn't really matter to me in the end. I just like sharing my story with other car enthusiasts because we've all had some problematic vehicles that taught us valuable lessons.
"Let him cook"
Oh,he cooked it up alright.
Probably the most respectful engine send off I've ever witnessed
Maybe some useful info: that maximum skim/warpage tolerance is also there because you risk breaking the camshaft. If you machine the head when it's too far gone, the bottom may be flat but the rest is still warped. So when you mount the cam(s), you bend it, and eventually, it breaks. My automotive teacher told me this has happened several times at the BMW dealership he worked at.
Donut is the only channel that can turn a mishap into an entertaining video ❤️
Donut sold out to big corporate car! They went from homegrown to billionaires and it ruined the channel brah
You must have only recently started watching UA-cam then. 😊
May I introduce you to "Aging Wheels"? That's basically the entire channel.
@@samuelgarrod8327 I said entertaining.
dude that's like 90% of youtube, lol
Definitely a fascinating experiment! I admire the commitment to testing this to the very limit and providing such a thorough breakdown of the results.
0:34 damn those engine mounts
A few more laps and they would not have needed to pull the engine because it looked ready to jump out on its own.
3:48
Gotta appreciate the map gauge just hoping out to the right and hiding under the cover
Hearing that engine screaming for help while Jeremy was singing the national anthem was something else
America the beautiful isn’t the national anthem lmao. The star spangled banner is
@@ryann5247 and he only knew like half the words lol
As someone who loves cars, but doesn't understand a whole lot about them, this video is massively appreciated. Super informative!
@@beazkneez Bro took it personally
This is so fascinating. I love how you guys demonstrate and explain engine issues.
I highly recommend “I do cars” for more of that content.
Thank you for filming at 2160 P. Not enough channels are actually using the higher resolution.
You want to go and buy all those other channels a better camera?
@davelowets Even if you upscale to 4K you can circumvent the 1080P premium tier.
@@soundspark 1080P is still considered "premium" in the current year?
@Michael-uc2pn If you upload at 1080p, 30fps, the player can have a regular and Premium bitrate for 1080p.
It’s also nice to see y’all going back to your roots. Educational content that’s fun and enjoyable to watch. Not dumping on fans for making suggestions or asking questions.
11:17
POV from your prostate😂😂😂
bro😂
That wrench at the engine burial 😂... oh my god that was great comedic timing.
I love this video. I am a hardware guy in the computer field, and while this this is a completely different platform... I go through the same steps on computers and arcade boards, to see what's wrong, what can fail, what to test, and how to fix. Not only that, making it fun, and easy to watch and understand. When I get a second car, I'm absolutely planning on having fun with my current one (2011 Jeep Compass) to make it as fun as possible (including wanting to do an engine swap with a FWD honda engine), just to learn.
with a Jeep Compass, I'm sure you'll be troubleshooting plenty of electronic hardware issues in the future.
That sounds so cool, I love working on engines and I would love to learn how to work with circuitry.
@@arnaudmeert1527 yeah.... I've already had to take a metal file to the pins on the PCM, because of how the computer was talking. Popped them off and found some discolored pins.
@@CormacHollandI love working on boards, especially when I can take one thing, and make it into another. I'm converting a PS3 USB arcade stick to Xbox series, soldering the wires to a cheap certified Microsoft controller. I love my fighting games, and their controller ban basically eliminated every arcade stick I own.
I'd absolutely love to trade knowledge if you were local.
A Honda engine swap?? YUK!!
V-8 it, or forget it...
You'd make it WORSE by putting a Honda turd in it.
My '95 Miata overheated last summer. Me and a roommate went for a quick trip to the train station to pick up my bicycle. Probably somewhere on the 5 min trip back either the thermostat gave out or the 27+ year old line ripped while my roomate was driving and I was cycling back home. The engine ran with barely any coolant for all little while but always below 3000rpm and never any faster than 30km/h. Seeing my roomate panicking next to a smoking engine bay gave me quite the scare but I had a local mechanic do a compression check on all cylinders and they all were totally fine. Engine stil runs great aswell, gotta love japanese reliability!
So what happened? Was the thermostat stuck, or did a hose blow? Not hard to see which one it was....
@@davelowets if there's no coolant i think there's just a leakage
I wish they had internet & car videos like these when I was 16 yrs old to learn about engines.
Old people today talk as if no smartphones around was some great thing. I'm 51 and love having the internet, computer, Walkman/music player, am/fm radio, TV/video player all fit in my pocket.
If I took a smartphone back to high school in 1988, I'd be considered a God.
The THPS 900 special sound absolutely killed me! Nostalgia!
I love how the drone was almost like a jet flyover as Nolan was saluting the flag😂
The editing, SFX, music, and videography were NUTS for this video 😂
This is a great donut video. You just taught so much to people in simplistic terms!
I love the technical explanations with examples
6:34 never seeing that wrench again
Might aswell ask LTT to try and cool it at this point
they should do a donut ltt colab, stick a v8 in linus's Porsche.
_Linus somehow drops the engine_
Linus builds a PC to go in the car and it is cooled by the cooling system of the car so you can only use the computer when engine is running lol
@@gloomsurvivor Linus' porsche is too expensive, also it's electric so way harder to swap out. LS swap the "Lambo" or 2jz the Odyssey
@@douglasreid699 Good luck with that, on a warm day a car's cooling system is roughly at boiling temp, so you're forcing your CPU/GPU to be at throttling temp before you even open a game/program.
When you overheat a car it gets too hot.
This guy is a genius
now that’s a takeaway
Ground-breaking observation
What a hot takeaway.
Brooo I never knew!
Is it me or they don't know that 1/6000 of an inch is thinner than 1/2000 of an inch? Of course 1/6000 will fit if 1/2000 does.
... you're kidding right. It's .06250 for 60 thousandths and .02000 is the max tolerance.
My father has a 60y/o Italian coupe. In the late 1980´s he overheated it twice, both times rather seriously, then he left it in the corner of the garage until 2018 when I decided to fix it (it was also rusty, the wiring was bad, the brakes needed not just overhaul, but a total rebuild to accept other disks due to the original ones to being available anymore, and other stuff).
The engine was iron block with an aluminum head and oil pan. When we disassembled it, we have found out that almost all the piston rings are snapped into multiple pieces, and almost all the ribs on all the pistons were broken. The head was bent, and there was some carbon buildup on the valves. However, the important things - cylinder walls and bearings were perfectly okay. So we had the head machined, cleaned it, bought new pistons and rings, put it back together, and it runs better than ever. Despite being overheated 2 times so much that it ceased to work.
I once had to repair an N52 engine after it had overheated. Not only did I have to get the head machined all the way to the max tolerance and use a thicker head gasket, I also needed to repair all the head bolt threads in the block with a special jig. It's a bad feeling when you're on the 3rd stage of the torque sequence and the threads rip out of the magnesium alloy block.
2:07 engine mounts have seen better days
It used to be a rally car
That engine wanted to be free LOL
Everybody going on about engine mounts... 😒
5:13 skip over sponsor
Without watching, your head warps, that's what happens...usually
We know they're warped.
But, what about the car?! 😂
You've experienced that already, I'm guessing... 🤪
2:07 that engine mount is toast
At 1:57 you say thermostat is pretty easy to replace. Often that's true but don't say that to Audi S4 owners who had to get it done ;)
Yeah this brings back 05 Ford Exploder PTSD lol
ALL fords are junk, and will explode. Don't buy them, then no P.T.S.D.
I think you guys completely misunderstood the measurements when testing the head warp. 2000th of an inch is WIDER than 6000ths of an inch. You needed to go to a SMALLER number in order to test how bad the warp was. You tried with thinner and thinner strips.
No they used 2/1000 and 6/1000
But 2000th of an inch does not mean 2/1000, rather it means 1/2000 inches.
Being a machinist who machines and builds anything from a standard rebuild to wild shit on a daily.... I've started to hate when they go into engines. So many things that just aren't right. Like spraying air into the ports to check valves. You can do that on a fresh valve job that's perfect and show a leak. Air pressure overcomes the springs. Seen many of valve jobs sold that way when it would of ran just fine lol.
Yeah, the pressure inside cylinder is applied from the other side and "seals" the valves harder. They do it backwards, forcing them open. IDK what they trying to test here.
@@donutsleader using feelers to test the surface of the heads condition is pretty dumb too. I can't count the amount of times I've been told "just take 4thou it's only warped 4thou" and it takes 30 to fully clean up lol
Air is being sent through the plug hole into the cylinder as is standard w leakdown testing. They ain't doing anything backwards. You two clowns are guilty of bass-ackward-ness by commenting before figuring out wtf's actually goin on. smh fcol
They’re talking about overheating, meanwhile I can’t get over them blown to death engine mounts, watching that engine dance around in that engine bay 😂
What happens when you overheat the engine? You fuck it up 😂
Interesting video, but since no one is going to overheat their engine by holding it at redline under no load while sitting still in neutral, I don't think this video is particularly meaningful. A much better test IMO would have been to simulate a realistic situation by draining the coolant and then driving it around until it died. If the engine was under a load while it overheated, I suspect we would have seen much more damage to the pistons, rings, cylinders, and bearings from the higher cylinder pressures and termperatures.
Sheeish. Now that's alot of damage!!! 😅
You posted this a minute after the video was posted. Didn't watch to the end?
damn
My dad has a '97 M3 and this hurt to watch. But good on you Donut for providing a valuable teaching experience.
5:30 revving it for the boys with CHAMPOO
5:30 Homie singing like he’s sitting on a bomb 🤣🤣
We warped a mk4 2.0L head at a race recently. It could still run but barely held compression. The exhaust header was keeping the aluminum head from warping so much so that the valve lifters seized when we removed it.
Correct me if I'm wrong but when testing warping, a 2000th of an inch is if you divide an inch by 2000 and take 1 part. To test if it's more warped than the tolerance allows for you should have gone with 1000th of an inch (1/1000) .
22:31 a lot of people used to talk a lot of smack about aluminum heads when they first hit the market. But with a lot of people have started to realize is aluminum heads will fail long before anything else does and heads are the easiest things to fits. Replaced and diagnose. You are literally putting the failure point in the best position to fix quick and cheap.
5:38 as a German I was briefly dead in that moment, felt my heart skipping not only a beat but the whole damn song 😂💀
The quality, the ability to explain everything through humorous satire, and relation to irl problems and profound explanations with animations always amazes me.
Ty Donut)
This was a great breakdown video. I enjoyed learning about what caused what to happen.
Thank you gentleman.
Donut's ability to spend a shitload of money on making an exceptionally clean car a total piece of shit is staggering. Dude this e36 had all the options, leather interior, mint paint, zero dents and no mods.
0:34
Donut: Let's overheat this BMW engine
BMW engine: "Ight Imma head out"
I stopped this video at 6:26.... literally wheeping due to the anticlimactic destruction of a beautiful e36 motor to comment on a video for the first time in my life.....
All straight sixes go to heaven. Anyone else see that movie?
I love that longer form, calmer paced content. I had stoped watching your video because the short format, supercut and over exagerated enery video were off puting. but this is great and has me want to go back to watching you regularly
Pretty impressed with the old bimmer she held up well. It just shows how many of the blown up ones you see are more on the owners negligence either maintenance or poor modifications
I’m sitting here on my couch eating a lightly buttered tortilla with some pepper jack cheese and pepperoni on it. I gotta say, shits pretty fire man.
Donut is probably the only channel where I actually watch their ad/sponsor portion of the video purely because they're clever, funny, and entertaining. Props to you guys. 👍 I'm sure they have plenty of happy sponsors.
17:45 reminded me of that part from the movie Tarzan where they make music with all the random house things
If you guys are ever in a jam, and your car starts to overheat.
Turn the heat on MAX and pull over safely, let the car cool down. Don't try to drive, wait a couple hours.
Funny enough I learned this from King of the Hill, that truck episode saved me.
When it happened for the third time in my BMW I just kept driving and let it overheat, hate that car.
@@user-ue6iv2rd1n I understand just don't let things frustrate you, it's better to sell a car in decent working order.
That way you can get just a little bit more money, when you dump it and get something else you like.
The way the motor moved when he first took off at the track was hilarious. I thought it was going to jump out the engine bay
That moment when Jerry sang the national anthem while redlining the engine only to stomp the gas at the finale for it to basically explode... *chefs kiss*
As a guy who's just had to scrap out a perfectly good work truck because the radiator spooged the coolant and let the engine run without cooling, I feel this in my soul.
gotta say your editors are doing over time, killing it.
Really helpful video dudes my dad used to be a mechanic but I never got to play on the inside of a car like that and had no idea what over heating could cause to the engine, but could tell you that blowing a coolant hose would have got you to overheat that engine super fast as just happened to me back on valentine’s 💔
Dudes. Thank you for coming together and giving us exactly what the funk we need. Yall hit every area here, I cant even believe it. Honestly so happy that you guys know where we need to go but its hard to get there. Ones who truly appreciate it know that. Keep This up. We love you ❤. NEVER TOO COLD AT REDLINE.
for the nerds: pressure wise, you likely wont be able to even see that hurdle before you overheat a multiple cylinders thus causing detonation due to heatsink. because if we could keep it cooler, it wouldnt fail nonmatter the pressure untill were defeaing the bolt force specs.
Thank yall again. Happy yall are keeping working for a better source of content and a more quality interaction between yall and ur viewers. ❤🎉🎉🎉
oh and for the nay-shmidts. since you dont believe me the africans and the middle east are both good friends for learning these capabilities and lowering redline allowing the engine to forever be able to recover at base horsepower. ❤ ciao.
@6:26 the wrench is brilliant
THIS feels like classic Donut content, thanks guys
this is peak automotive content. Y'all were made for this. keep going. Also, It's not "purposely breaking" something when it's for science! so don't feel bad!