You mentioned in a previous video that you liked the slider but not the fence, and were thinking about upgrading to a full size slider. For those of use who haven't used a slider I think a great video would be comparing the two saws and advantages of disadvantages no matter how obvious. I'm thinking about adding a small slider just like your grizzly to my small shop but could use some insight and possibly some persuasion. Cant wait for the other parts of this video to come out!
Enjoyed your process! There are many ways to process wood for doors. Usually a process is the result of a painful learning experience 😅. A shop (7 employees) i worked at didn't label parts which was a little annoying. New guy comes and writes every length of finished and rough S/R/P in a spiral notebook, called the door book. Its a handy resource when multiple colors are easily mixed up going into the paintbooth. Every region and individual has a different process for different reasons.
Do you ever mill extra stock just in case? Such as a miss cut or a bad board is found later down the line in the process? Or maybe a set up/test piece for the shaper set up? Thx
Keep up the content, I am a long time woodworker who is now a full time carpenter and I am interested in branching out to doing more cabinetry, vanities and built-ins so this is great for me. obviously you are at a different level from a shop standpoint but its helpful to see the steps and everything. Anyway keep up with the videos, you'll be blowing up in now time.
I am glad to see one of my favorite one man shops uploading on UA-cam. I enjoy your Instagram material and I look forward to your future content, keep it up man. Can't wait for a paint booth one if you ever decide to go that route. The pain of having to set one up and dismantle it, is such a bottle neck for me.
I’ve been going back and forth between maple and poplar for a few years and the truth is my supplier never can send me a straight flat piece of maple. Poplar machines better and if you finish right and sand right grain won’t raise plus it’s cheaper. Keep the vids coming!
@@NE_woodworks I've tried poplar so many times, but the painters can't ever get it right. I used to do my own finishing, but the builder would rather the painter do it so I can go on to the next job. Problem is.....HE SUCKS!
You are essentially using your jointer as a planer for flattening the door pieces. My son has a somewhat different system in that he planes all the lumber first on both sides. With his recent purchase of the straight line saw, his jointer sees very little use.
@@NE_woodworksI’m not nearly as experienced as you. But what I do is joint the face side, then use that face side against the fence of the jointer and joint the edge. Then planer. That the right way?
@@TheRealDill93That is also a “way” to do this. Not wrong or right, just how your comfortable doing it. I’ve done my door stock milking that way too. 👍🏻
I understand that your doors are thicker (7/8 - 15/16) if you were to do inset would the face frame also be the same thickness as the door rails and stiles?
Thanks for the series on shaker doors. Got a question. You said that you over size the doors so you can dial in the size per cabinet. I don’t think you stated it exactly like that but I assume you inferred that. When you rip your rails and stiles how much over do you add to the width? Because you have to plane both edges when milling and then have enough left over to trim to size. So assume my end product is 2-1/2” width for r&s, do I want to rip at 2-3/4”? Thanks from the west side of the Cascades.
@@NE_woodworksthanks for answering these detailed questions. I’m self taught from YT and Instagram and have had to watch many many videos to piece as much together as possible. When actually going through the process I then realize the small details that go unmentioned.
I appreciate the attention to detail on milling process. Splitting passes on planer makes a big difference glad you mentioned that. 👍
Thanks for the feedback 🤙
Yes poplar is what i use for my doors too. Great scene of the blue desert sky against the backsrop of your shop. Great video
Poplar is just really easy to work with. I have not had any issues with it. Thanks man 👊
It is so great to see someone that works exactly like me, including how you make your drawers and most of your other processes too...awesome
Very cool!
Nice video! Your video productions are coming along. Great content and I learned a few things. Congrats & thanks.
Awesome. Thank you. Great to hear. I appreciate the feedback
You mentioned in a previous video that you liked the slider but not the fence, and were thinking about upgrading to a full size slider. For those of use who haven't used a slider I think a great video would be comparing the two saws and advantages of disadvantages no matter how obvious. I'm thinking about adding a small slider just like your grizzly to my small shop but could use some insight and possibly some persuasion. Cant wait for the other parts of this video to come out!
Great idea. I’ll definitely do a video on that. I appreciate the feedback and ideas
Lets Go!!! these are the videos on YT that im looking for! sweet shop, awesome video
Thanks man. Love to hear it. 🤙
It’s nice having a dumpster!
Dude it’s sooo nice
Awesome. I’ll be moving into my new shop here soon
Nice!
Enjoyed your process!
There are many ways to process wood for doors.
Usually a process is the result of a painful learning experience 😅.
A shop (7 employees) i worked at didn't label parts which was a little annoying.
New guy comes and writes every length of finished and rough S/R/P in a spiral notebook, called the door book.
Its a handy resource when multiple colors are easily mixed up going into the paintbooth.
Every region and individual has a different process for different reasons.
Yup you’re exactly right. A lot of ways to do it. Just showing my process. Works for me.
Dig your channel and your work bro. The only videos I'll watch the full pull on.
That’s awesome!! Thanks for watching
Do you ever mill extra stock just in case? Such as a miss cut or a bad board is found later down the line in the process? Or maybe a set up/test piece for the shaper set up? Thx
Keep up the content, I am a long time woodworker who is now a full time carpenter and I am interested in branching out to doing more cabinetry, vanities and built-ins so this is great for me. obviously you are at a different level from a shop standpoint but its helpful to see the steps and everything. Anyway keep up with the videos, you'll be blowing up in now time.
Awesome! Thanks for following along
I am glad to see one of my favorite one man shops uploading on UA-cam. I enjoy your Instagram material and I look forward to your future content, keep it up man. Can't wait for a paint booth one if you ever decide to go that route. The pain of having to set one up and dismantle it, is such a bottle neck for me.
Thanks for following. I have got a custom paint booth being made as we speak. Should have it in a few weeks. Will definitely be doing a video on it
What’s your assembled thickness. 7/8 or 3/4? Looks thicker but wondered if it’s the camera lenses
U answered it!!
I’ve been going back and forth between maple and poplar for a few years and the truth is my supplier never can send me a straight flat piece of maple. Poplar machines better and if you finish right and sand right grain won’t raise plus it’s cheaper. Keep the vids coming!
Yup. Thats exactly why I switched too
@@NE_woodworks
I've tried poplar so many times, but the painters can't ever get it right. I used to do my own finishing, but the builder would rather the painter do it so I can go on to the next job. Problem is.....HE SUCKS!
You are essentially using your jointer as a planer for flattening the door pieces.
My son has a somewhat different system in that he planes all the lumber first on both sides.
With his recent purchase of the straight line saw, his jointer sees very little use.
The jointer takes any bow, cup or twist out of the board.
@@NE_woodworksI’m not nearly as experienced as you. But what I do is joint the face side, then use that face side against the fence of the jointer and joint the edge. Then planer. That the right way?
@@TheRealDill93He is making doors, all he needs is straight.....not perfect. It gets perfect at the shaper
@@TheRealDill93That is also a “way” to do this. Not wrong or right, just how your comfortable doing it. I’ve done my door stock milking that way too. 👍🏻
What software do you use to draw you plans?
I understand that your doors are thicker (7/8 - 15/16) if you were to do inset would the face frame also be the same thickness as the door rails and stiles?
Yes.
Great
Thanks
Thanks for the series on shaker doors. Got a question. You said that you over size the doors so you can dial in the size per cabinet. I don’t think you stated it exactly like that but I assume you inferred that. When you rip your rails and stiles how much over do you add to the width? Because you have to plane both edges when milling and then have enough left over to trim to size. So assume my end product is 2-1/2” width for r&s, do I want to rip at 2-3/4”?
Thanks from the west side of the Cascades.
Okay just watched part 2 of this series and you answered my question. Thanks again.
I usually go 3/8” oversized. That leaves enough room for milling
@@NE_woodworksthanks for answering these detailed questions. I’m self taught from YT and Instagram and have had to watch many many videos to piece as much together as possible. When actually going through the process I then realize the small details that go unmentioned.
👍👍👍👍👍
🤙
Are you starting with 4/4 or 5/4 stock?
5/4
Feed the beast
how thick do you make your doors? looks like you're starting with 5/4
Yep. They finish around 7/8- 15/16
@@NE_woodworks do you have to use thick door hinges?
Yes
@@NE_woodworksAll of your cabinet doors are that thick? If so, that’s heavy duty! 😁👍🏻
god the music is awful