▼EXPAND FOR TOOL LINKS and INFO▼ Watch This Video Next - How to Use a Router (basics for beginners) ua-cam.com/video/xLxCEBb-74s/v-deo.html Tools in this video: Whiteside 4 Router Bit Set - amzn.to/4bjnN66 Bosch 6 Piece Router Bit Set - amzn.to/3y1qwCN Bosch 15 Piece Router Bit Set - amzn.to/3y5JJ6w 3/8 inch Roundover Bit- amzn.to/3wudopj 1/4 Straight Compression Bit - amzn.to/4boQSNl 3/4 inch Straight Bit - amzn.to/3QwrYDD Dovetail Router Bit - amzn.to/4aYz8sz MicroJig Clamps - amzn.to/3wuK4iq Juice Groove Bit - amzn.to/3y5ahor Miniature Router Bit Kit (for small rounders, etc.) amzn.to/3y59ILl Mini Router Table Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store/benchtoproutertable Full Size Router Table Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store/routertableplans Milwaukee M18 Cordless Router - acmetools.pxf.io/9g2bvY DeWALT 20v Cordless Router - amzn.to/3UHaY02 DeWALT Fixed and Plunge Base Router - amzn.to/4dlSMAn Bosch Fixed and Plunge Base Router - amzn.to/3UKgIWT Kreg Set Up Bars - amzn.to/3QvmeKf Crafted Elements Templates - craftedelements.com Kreg Radius Templates - amzn.to/4b0KyMt Bench Cookies - amzn.to/44uQtae 12 pack Hockey Pucks - amzn.to/44t5oSa Walnut Router BIt Organization Tray - www.731woodworks.com/store/router-bit-organizing-tray-walnut If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I will receive a commission on qualifying purchases. 📲 Text DEALS to 1 (731) 207-7151 to sign up for my Tool Deals SMS Alerts All of my Build PLANS: www.731woodworks.com/store Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Jumpstart Your Own Woodworking Business in Less than 90 Days - sawduststartups.com My Tool Company - faithvalleytools.com The full list of tools and supplies I recommend can be found on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Join the TUBAFOUR NATION through Patreon to get access to exclusive member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
@731woodworks great video. Im your typical dyi guy. Im trying to find a video that shows how to cut a recess for a hatch. Im installing hatches on my wooden boat deck and i want them to sit flush. Cant seem to find anything on how to go about doing that. The hatches are rounded out on the corners and the lip or flange is 3/4" wide and about a 1/4" deep on 3/4" thick plywood
One MAJOR THING that you should be aware of and mistakenly said in this video. When putting the bit into the router, DO NOT put the bit in all the way until it bottoms out. When you do that and then tighten the collet, the collet does not have room to fully tighten on bit. Bottom the bit out and then back it out about an eight of an inch. I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE OF HAVING A BIT FLY OUT WHILE USING MY PALM ROUTER!! Luckily the bit came out and flew across the garage, putting a couple gouges into a garbage can before bouncing off the garage door and landing on the floor. The only warning was that the router had a slight vibration for only about a second before it spit the bit out. I was VERY LUCKY that it did not come back at me.
Yup, I was cringing when he did that. For that round over one too (3:20), he should've made SURE to say not to push it in too far, because the collet could (only) be gripping the flared portion...yikes!
I bumped into 731 Woodworks a few days ago as I was getting ready to unpack a jobsite table saw I got as a birthday gift two years ago (!). Now, I can't help watching at least two of your videos each day. I'm a weekend woodworker in Colombia (South America) and I must say that the clarity, usefulness of the information, rhythm and general vibe of your content is just hypnotic. Please accept my compliments and thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I'm retired, and we just moved into a new house after 30 years in the last one. Back to square one and I have a number of projects lined up. I considered myself *fairly* knowledgeable, but with all the online resources felt it was a good idea to check out not only online reviews, but also videos on technique and safety. I've found this channel invaluable for both, and it's become one of the ones I automatically check first on a given area I'm looking for guidance on. As usual, it's staggering how much I didn't know. I had almost talked myself into just forgoing a router as an option altogether. This video made me think again, which is what you are looking for when you view this kind of content. As Siskel and Ebert used to say, "Thumbs up, way up."
As a workshop joiner of over 40 years, most of what you say is sound advice. For beginners -get used to listening to the sounds coming from the machine and the wood. With experience you will learn things like the correct speed, changes in wood density and faults in the material. Never stop the router with the cutter engaged with the wood. Never put the router down with the cutter still spinning. Always make sure you can make a complete pass without snagging the power cable. If the bearing surface is small, consider ways to support at least half the base which helps prevent the router tipping over....Routers and their usage is a huge subject
As a beginner, I don't know what you may have missed but I now know more than I knew before watching your video. You don't know what you don't know, thank you for a good start.
I just picked up a router at a yard sale. I have always wanted one, but knew nothing about how to do what I already knew they were capable of. After devouring as much info as I could on UA-cam, I bookmarked this video. I don;t know what's missing either, but it sure seems comprehensive. I have to admit I'm a bit scared of it now, but I suppose it'll give me respect for the dangers. I can't wait to use it!
1/2 inch shank tends to vibrate less than 1/4 inch reducing chatter. Also I never set a bit against the stop, on some routers when you do this you cannot tighten as tight as possible. I always seat the bit and lift it about an 1/8 inch or so so when tightening so the collet can clinch down all the way.
Correct. I learned the hard way, when i was young and I put a 1/4" bit in my dads craftsman router, and it loosened, but didn't fly out. I work in a millshop, and everyone is told the correct way, over and over until they can be trusted. We've had big bits hit the ceiling before, luckily nobody was in the way. In a Corian shop, you get to know routers quite well.
About the collet not closeing down all the way. These collets work by haveing a slight taper going in, so when you tighten the nut it pushes the collet into the taper, which in turn compresses the collet onto the bit. (Hence the slots in the collet.) Drill chucks, like on a drill press or Dremel / die grinder, work the other way round, pushing thir 3 clamping prongs out. So you can put a drill al the way to the back in a chuck, but with a collet it will reduce clamping force. Also please keep in mind that the taper on a collet is way more gradual than on a chuck, meaning that it won't be able to compansate for a big difference in shank diameter. If a bit feels very loose, or isn't immediately grabbed by the collet when tightening, please check twice if it actully fits right. This is done fore higher clamping force, as up- and down cut bits create axial forces when cutting. In the case of upcut bits, trying to pull the bit out of the collet, so additional clamping force is needed to secure the bit in place as compared to drills, which get pushed into the respective chuck.
8:30 Rather use the round side of the router base than flat side. When using the flat side any rotation of the router will push the router bit away from the guide line. In your case, your slot/hole will not be straight. On the other hand, when using the round side of the router base, it does not matter if you rotate the router as long as the round side of the router base stays at the guide. The cutting line will stay straight anyway. Great video! Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
He could have shown how to use a tapered cylinder in the chuck to center the router base, so that the offset remains consistent though out rotation of the base l.
Here's a tip. Use the round edge as already stated. Mark the router plate in one spot with a sharpie. That is the spot to put against the work to get a consistent work offset.
I tend to roll my router curved frame against the fence doing rabbets. You get good smooth movement and steady feed instead of trying to keep the flat lined up to the fence.
Good informative video for beginners. I’ve been using routers for nearly 50 years as a boatbuilder and have found that beginners are not comfortable using routers and shapers. Good instruction and practice is what is needed. By the way, it is break, not brake.
Mate, in spite of the sheer amount of bits you covered in this video, it’s the clearest, most informative video I’ve seen on routers. And no irritating background music either. Nice one!
Bench cookies - $40-$60 for a four pack. Hockey pucks - $40 for a twelve pack. It was an easy choice for me as the hockey pucks fulfill my Canadian mandate to have something related to hockey in the workshop.
I did the same too. One thing that's worth considering - use some anti-slip tape on your pucks. Stops 'em sliding all over your workbench when you use them.
Thanks, very good. Two little things to add... Don't insert a bit all the way to the bottom and tighten the collet. The bit can get locked in and be very difficult to remove. And some collets need to be loosened and then unscrewed even further to turn the bit loose.
@@Willybeanmcgraw go look at 3:15 in the video. Look at where the shank meets the cutting portion of the round over bit. You’ll notice it flairs out a little as it meets. If that bit is seated all the way down your Collette will grab the flair and not have full hold of the shank. Potential for the bit to come out if that’s the case. I’m sure there are other reasons not to seat it all the way but that is my main reason.
Here in Europe you must stay alert when buying bits, we have 6 mm , 1/4" , 8 mm, 12 mm and 1/2" bits My Makita 18v router takes 6 mm and 8 mm bits, my Bosch 12v router takes 6 mm and 1/4" bits .
So true. This is a great video. A router is actually a very dangerous tool which usually comes with minimal instructions. Some of them (including high end ones) have pour design for such basic activities as changing the bits or collets. Dust extraction is always hopeless. I've been using them for about 40 years, but when I started I didn't know a thing and there was really no help out there. I consider myself very lucky. Finally, safety glasses and respirator always the top tips.
"it doesn't matter". It might matter if the bit is not centered on the face plate. Best practice is to make a mark on the router base and keep that mark against the piece you are routing
I made one of these mistakes today while cutting out a sink hole in a counter top. After cutting the sides with a circular saw I used the router to cut the rounded corners with a 1/4 inch straight bit. I tried to cut all the way through and after burning my way through a half inch of it I stopped and decided to just make multiple passes at shallower depths. Worked much better! One thing you did mention but I don't think you stresses enough is going the right direction when routing. Most of your tips are great for someone setting up a shop with jigs and routing tabes and such. Most beginners/ amateurs buy a router for small projects or worksite jobs so most are using them freehand and direction makes a world of difference.
Good video, Lots of info in a small package. A couple of comments:. Because most routers use a tapered collet to hold the bit, the bit is drawn downward when the collet is tightened. If the bit is on the bottom of the collet hole, the collet can't be completely tightened and the bit can come out during use. I have a box that proves this point. You can see the botched groove where the bit came through the side because it wasn't tightened correctly. Always have the bit at least 1/8 inch from the bottom before tightening. 1/4 inch is better. Tightening the bit hard when bottomed can also cause it to jam in the collet and be extremely hard to get out. Thanks for the good work!
Outstanding video. I bought a router on sale not long ago without much knowledge on how to use them or what they were used for, just led to believe they can be used to make almost anything. You were extremely articulate, relevant material was presented in an easy to understand way and you didnt ramble. You had my full attention the entire video. Well done, sir and I look forward to your other videos.
I might mention when retrieving a bit from a holding/storage device, is to pay extra attention to the cutting edge to prevent slicing your fingers when pulling bit free. A glove or shop rag will prevent injury.
Great video Matt! One other thing to mention - if you're going to buy a router table, buy a good one, like the Bosch one or don't bother. I had an old Craftsman one that was my Dad's, and while it was metal, it was too thin, so the metal would flex or bow, causing the fence not to stay square to the table, or the fence to twist / rack, it was just...bad) and both my Dad and I found ourselves constantly trying to find ways NOT to use it or having to modify it to make repeatable cuts. Bought the Bosch one on prime day, and I am glad I did. It actually works really well. As an alternative and commonly available budget option for router bits, the Freud Diablo bits are about the same quality as the Bosch bits. At least here in the northeast, Home Depot carries Diablo and Lowe's carries Bosch, and both brands offer a wide variety of bit shapes and sizes. I would also mention that if you're ordering or buying any bit which has a bearing on it, make sure you buy an extra bearing if it doesn't come with one. Some do and some don't but if you have the spare on hand, you'll probably never need it. Also, you really need to pay attention to the RPM settings. Since the routers I have with variable speed typically don't tell you the RPM on the dial and just have a 1 through 5, read the manual, find where it tells you you what number translates to what RPM, and keep it handy. Here's a brief story about how I learned that all of those matter, in a single Saturday while building my previous desk: The first piece of oak 1x3 got ruined when the bearing seized, causing the bit to skip / jump instead of gliding along, just enough to chip out a chunk. My mistakes were using older bit and taking too deep of a cut in one pass, with the RPM set WAY too high. Speed 4 on the Craftsman router I had borrowed from my Dad was definitely not the same RPM as speed 4 on my Rigid trim router. It turns out that speed 4 on the Craftsman was 24,000 RPM but the bit was only rated for 18,000. So, you know, only about 33% over the rated speed for the bearing, which is why it seized. For context, and how I made this mistake - speed 4 on my Rigid trim router was 18,000 and I just didn't think to check. On the second piece, with a new bearing on the bit after gently dressing the cutting edges and the RPM correctly set this time routed it no problem...but it split when I tightened the last screw. It was one of "those days". My mistake this time was forgetting that order of operation matters. After cutting the round over on the top edge, where the piece split did not have a whole lot of material left and I should have screwed the piece on first then routed it in place. After the third trip to the store and doubling up on my "stupid tax" for the day, it was finally done.
Good information. I built my own router table from double surface Baltic Birch plywood and a hardwood frame that was jointed and planed. I made mortise and tenon joints and glued them.
A great teacher taught me to do all of your woodworking but with metal. He was an old blacksmith. He taught me how to weld, and temper metal while making detailed parts, half welder, half machinist without the machine shop. I'm now trying my hand at woodworking and this video reminds me of his tutelage.
3:28 1) if you bottom out, lift the bit about 1/8". 2) most router bits over 1/4" cutting area, usually have a curve at the shaft to cutterhead. You have to make sure that curve is completely exposed.
Home depot sells a 15-bit set by Ryobi that can usually be found for $40 with pretty good ratings. Its selection is pretty comprehensive too. Rockler's got a super pack of the bench cookies that comes with 8 plus the 3/4" dog hole lifts and finishing point covers.
A tip I give to new users is, when putting a bit in the router(round over, trim, molding ETC) do not push it right down,as there is a curve on the shaft and they have been known to come loose.To cut that out,I always use a rubber ring washer (same size as the shank) so it never happens
Also, the fact that the tapered collet needs to have available room to tighten inwards, and if bottomed out, no more movement to tighten. So basically there are several reasons to watch how far the bit is put in. The small radius at the business side, interfering, and the bottoming out, that reduces tightening.
For the love of all things though, do NOT put the bit into the collet all the way. Needs room to expand with heat. Trust me. Read your manual. Good luck and enjoy!
Glad to see that someone else noticed that he did not use a starter pin and am surprised that he did not even mention the use of one in the video as it's a basic safety feature.
Thanks for the 411. I have a Bosh plunge router that I have not used but know that i gained more knowledge after watching your video, I will start destroying stuff.
Thank you for the tips and advice . I’m just trying to build my confidence with one I just purchased after I using one for 10 years due to the fact I have been scared of them since I had one kick back under my own ill experience with one and cut my hand very badly I was how ever lucky the surgeon put my fingers and hand back to working order. I’ll be watching more of your video till before going again.
My plunge router has been the best buy of the year for me. I bought a second hand Festool plus multipoint lock template to install a single multipoint lock on a front door. I did the one door, bought a lock template and standardised 11 old doors to accept modern, standardised locks instead of the four-or-so different sizes from half a century ago. I trimmed flush some wood that held glass in place (glazing bead?). Cut a hole for ventilation so tight it's a press fit. Cut the holes in a countertop so neat as if they were from the factory. etc etc. Looking back there are more things I could've used it for. Earlier in the renovation we removed glazing beads using a oscilating saw and man... The ammount of sanding and filler we had to use to have that look respectable again... 😅 Next on the list is probably a template to install hidden hinges and a few cabinet hinges for a swing-down ceiling in a closet. I absolutely love my router and I haven't even scratched the surface of making visible edges pretty! 😁
I too am pretty intimidated by routers, I think mostly because mine is very cheap and squirrely. I really want a plunge router though, mine is trim router from Harbor Freight
I'm handy, but I never learned how to use a router, so I've spent the day reading and watching instructional videos like this. This is an excellent beginner router instructional video; thanks for making it.
That Makita small cord router is offered standard in my country with 1/4 in, 6mm and 8mm collets when I purchased a couple of them around five years ago. I love them and use for most of my router work. I also have two Bosch beasts for heavy duty work.
@TunaSoda I also use 1/8 in router bits in my makitas but I need a sleeve to adapt it to use larger collet. I do not have a collet to handle them directly.
Lots of good information in the video. Here's one omission and one suggestion: When discussing all the advantages of 1/2"-shank bits over 1/4"-shank bits, our host left out the biggest advantage. The larger shank reduces vibration, which makes the router easier to use and yields a smoother cut. Despite what you may have heard in other contexts, here bigger is better. When using a starter pin on a router table, keep yourself (and therefore your leverage) behind the pin as much as possible. Then, pivot the work slowly into the bit. The starter pin should give you enough control so the workpiece won't be shot off the router table (as we saw in the video). When done with the proper technique, you shouldn't have to run the router at a slower speed than you'd normally use for that size bit.
After buying a Craftsman 20v cordless 1/4" impact driver a few years ago in a Black Friday sale, I have been buying additional 20v cordless tools as needed. It may not be what other woodworkers would buy but they serve my needs. I like that I can take a fully charged battery & slap it on a tool & instantly get to work. Two years ago, a cordless trim router would have been handy for cutting mortises for door hinges where I had no access to 120v power. I now have a cordless Craftsman 20v trim router for in shop & as well for on-site cutting chores. I have other bigger corded routers for in shop work.
In metric there are usually 6mm, 8mm and 12mm bits. The makita can handle both 8mm and 6mm (and 1/4 inch). I usually get both metric and inch collets as it depends where you get your bits from...
Awesome video as always! One thing I’d love to see addressed in beginner router videos is the proper way to set up the plunge feature. Everyone seems to gloss over the set up or go through it quickly. Even the directions that come with the router aren’t thorough. When I got my Triton it was so frustrating as I understood the basics but had so much trouble dialing it in! I know new plunge users would appreciate a clear tutorial on the setup!
Robert, have you even known a 1/4" to break, I am asking because I am seriously considering changing all my stuff to 1/4 " for speed and the cost of buying a set of each size?
@@jim99ful - I've never had one break (or brake), but I did have one slip out of the collet when I was using a trim router. Having one of those suckers gain its freedom at over 20 000 RPM is a serious "Got your attention now, don't we?" moment. Granted it was my own damned fault for not tightening it enough before using it, but that is a moment when you take rapid inventory of all your body parts
Nice review. I put an O-ring on my bit shanks. This prevents me from having the collet trying clamp on the transition between shank and body of the bit.
I saw somewhere that you aren’t supposed bottom out the bit in the collet because as you tighten the collet it draws down. If the bit is already at the bottom it may not be able to move down enough to get as tight as it should be and could slip a little.
Absolutely correct. Glad that folks like you are peppering this comment section with that observation, as a backstop to that dangerous assertion at 3:00 mins!
This was wonderful for this rookie. Ive been away from my tools for 5 years due to some unfortunate health and surgery issues. I got a router just before all that; wanted to invest more into wood working. I just got my workshop setup this week and one of the first things I wanted to try was my router, but was immediately intimidated and this video was a really nice way to pick up where I left off.
For all the trolls that just had to say something negative, I'm 70 years old, from Midwest farm country as a child moved to big city, big familie(s), inventer,creator, handyman, engineer, this video will go to my save later file and stay there. Currently moved off grid and building 'everything' and loved every minute. Thanks to the author.
Top/Up = towards router Bottom/Down = away from router Router tables weren't invented until well after the router and it was always assumed the router bit is facing down.
This feels highly pedantic and I don’t see why this would really matter outside of manufacturing. I’ve seen people call them top or bottom bearings based on the orientation and have never once been confused by what was meant. As long as you are clear about which one you’re talking about, it’s not important what naming convention you use.
@@TheHeadincharge It is important because words have meaning. If we just allow words to have two opposite meanings, then it is impossible to follow the language. These words make it possible to purchase the correct router bit without studying the picture in extreme detail to make sure it meets a buyer's needs.
Great video! Probably one of the best overall intros to routers I've seen. Thanks! I have an old fixed-base Craftsman router I got in 1975 but I don't use it often enough to feel like I'm as proficient with it as I should be. Nevertheless, I do get some work done with it now and again and I still have 8 fingers and two thumbs, so all is good.
You forgot to mention the main reason there was kickback on the router table when using the temple was because you ran the material in the wrong direction. That is something that takes some relearning when a person first using a router table.
I recently was redoing the cabinet doors in my kitchen that were going to have glass inserts and I got a set of router bits for the styles and rails, and those things were beasts. They make the work a lot easier and faster. I usually prefer my router table to using the table saw if both will do the job.
Don’t forget to occasionally check your bearing set screws. I bought a new whiteside bit and didn’t check this and during a cut the bit literally fell out at speed. Scared the crap out of me. Of course the set screw was lost. I called Whiteside and they sent me a new set screw. Another good jig is the Jasper circle cutting jigs. I have a couple different ones and think I can cut 1” - 5’ circles. I started buying tools so I could build speaker cabinets so those jigs are great for driver holes, or getting the outside of the drivers flush with the cabinet face.
It’s a bit simpler here in Australia. As a Woodwork teacher with over 40 years in the classroom, we teach a Groove runs along the grain and a Trench runs across the grain. We don’t use the word Dado. A Groove or Trench that does not go all the cross the board or along the board can be known as ‘stopped’. Lloyd
Describing the cutting edge like a saw blade is the best thing I've heard in years. You wouldn't feed wood through a table saw backwards so the same thing applies to a router bit. (Rarely needed climb cuts excepted, of course) (Although I probably shouldn't have said that last bit because you would have got more comments to help your video). Well done.
I absolutely love routers. The router table was one of the first big purchases I made and have never regretted it other than I wish I would’ve went with one that had a more premium fence but in all reality, mine does what I need. I really think a good compression bit is worth its wait in gold. Routers are one of my biggest temptations. Although I have everything I need, I always have to fight myself not to buy more
Just as a note, I have never been a big fan of many of their tools, but I absolutely love my Porter-Cable plunge router. I like its flexibility and general ease of use as well as ease of setup.
Good video. I just realized my dream of getting a router . It’s a Milwaukee corded. The cheaper one of the two I’ve seen. $85 (they’re $189 new at Home Repo) used including the bit set. Master grip bit set with 4 additional bits. An 18 piece set, and now I’ve bought a router table too. Thanx for the orientation!
Been watching you for a while now, off and on. Love the way explain everything. Recently watched your breakdown of palm routers, I was looking for one at the time. I ended up buying a Hoyoa palm router off amazon. I don’t recall you using this particular router in your video but this one had everything I thought I needed including variable speed and a round dust port. Time will tell about the rest but it did have great reviews. Keep the videos coming, I learning a lot.
Excellent video, very informative. I have never owned a Whiteside bit but have gotten great service from Freud and Bosch bits. My fixed-base, corded router is a Miluakee. It has a very good adjustment mechanism. It's a bit cumbersome to dig out and set up. Most router tasks are light duty, and I have a DeWalt trim router on order. I picked DeWalt simply because I already have batteries and chargers and have gotten good service from DeWalt tools.
This was such a useful video, thanks a lot! I've always wanted a router because I saw them as the most versatile tool you could have - especially when you like to do all your stuff yourself, like me - but I was totally clueless about how to start and which essentials to get. This helped me so much :D
Thanks! This was a great video. Could you elaborate the part about "clockwise on the outside, counter-clockwise on the inside"? I didn't quite get the logic behind that.
Extremely helpful!! I've put off getting a router for years - my carpentry needs are simple and I make rudimentary basic things - so this vid was perfect, also very nice router tray I might add!! :)
This was a very helpful video! A lot of tools are pretty well self explanatory. For example, a miter saw. Generally you don't switch blades all that often and there is one direction of cutting. With a router, there are so many choices and little decisions you have to make. To be honest, I have not only been unsure of which blade to use from time to time, but afraid of ruining my piece or getting hurt by improper use, that I don't use the router nearly as often as I should. For those reasons, I found this a very valuable video.
Very informative for just a regular guy diyer who dreams of one day building a guitar or simple things. Thanks so much. This is very informative even for someone like me who always thinks "man if i had tools i could do that or build that or fix that" but also lacks the experience or knowledge. So these sorts of things are helpful to us non pros.
Good start. Just to straighten things out a bit; the collet is the piece that's squeezed by the nut to hold the shaft of the bit in the shaft of the router. The item that adapts a 1/2" router to 1/4" id a reducer.
As a novice I now know much more than I did before I watched the video and I am now looking forward to having a go at making a lot of different things so thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I have that Makita router on my Shapeoko and it takes all of these shank sizes: 3mm, 6mm, 8mm, 1/8" and 1/4". It comes with some of these collet chucks, some of them you need to buy.
So much brilliant information here for a beginner I will be watching the video many times. I have just started using my router and am loving it. Your videos are the best out there. Thanks George U.K.
Thanks for all of this info!!! Woodworking newbie here and I have watched several of your videos and purchased some of your recommended power tools as well.
Very good video. Liked the info. Just one correction: where you showed 45deg angle( with red lines) presentation is 135deg. It would be perfect if you correct the error
Wish I had this video when I first bought a router. Quite a complex scary tool for a newbie and a no nonsense video is what’s needed to understand it. Probably my favourite power tool nowadays.
Thank you. Great presentation. It's been years since I did any woodworking, my Dad was teaching me but he passed away. My Mother didn't think that I had any right to his tools because she disapproved of women doing wood working. I demanded at least some of my Father's tools as I was closer to him than either of my brothers and they returned his old broken down table saw. So anything I knew was lost to time saving up the tools and with the help of Covid losing my short term memory. Needless to say I will be saving your videos.
Wow - GREAT video. Thanks. This is really a woodworking video, not just a tool shuck. I’ve been using a router in a table (Bosch) and a trim router (DeWalt cordless) for years - I’m fairly accomplished. But you have definitely added to my woodworking knowledge and skill - Thank you! You have taken the mystery out of router bits. You talked about feed direction - knew about that, but many newbies don’t. All in all an excellent video. Thanks again!
THIS was Absolutely HELPFUL! Thanks! I'd like to make a grove at the bottom of a door slab for a barn door guide...what's a good bit to use for that where i can do it with the door slab laying on its side?
Thank you for all the detailed information. While I'm not a total novice, I'm far from an expert and the more knowledgeable I am about tools, the better my work becomes, and my confidence increases. I appreciate you!
Good job. I use rubber O-rings 1/4 and 1/2 to keep the router bit from bottoming out. I have had a router bit fly out of the router because I bottomed out the bit, {twice}. Very scary you don't know where that bit is going. I bottom out the bit then pull it up about an 1/8 of an inch. Once the O-ring is in place you never need to remove it and the has never been effected by the heat from the bit. A good rule of thumb for depth of cut is to never cut deeper than half the diameter of the bit. 1/4 inch bit no more than 1/8 " . Can you make a video explaining how to use variable sped tools? Again good job Thanks
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What is on top of your Milwaukee battery at 17:00?
@@JasonEllingsworth It's a PowerBoot as seen in this video ua-cam.com/video/N8iwhJ2zFxM/v-deo.htmlsi=sYnOOU4yLsLj2xh_&t=11
@731woodworks great video. Im your typical dyi guy. Im trying to find a video that shows how to cut a recess for a hatch. Im installing hatches on my wooden boat deck and i want them to sit flush. Cant seem to find anything on how to go about doing that. The hatches are rounded out on the corners and the lip or flange is 3/4" wide and about a 1/4" deep on 3/4" thick plywood
One MAJOR THING that you should be aware of and mistakenly said in this video. When putting the bit into the router, DO NOT put the bit in all the way until it bottoms out. When you do that and then tighten the collet, the collet does not have room to fully tighten on bit. Bottom the bit out and then back it out about an eight of an inch. I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE OF HAVING A BIT FLY OUT WHILE USING MY PALM ROUTER!! Luckily the bit came out and flew across the garage, putting a couple gouges into a garbage can before bouncing off the garage door and landing on the floor. The only warning was that the router had a slight vibration for only about a second before it spit the bit out. I was VERY LUCKY that it did not come back at me.
Yep! Learned that one the hard way myself. Thankfully, I ruined a piece of oak, but not a piece of my body!
Not putting the bit all the way in is very important!
Thanks for the advice!
Yep.
Yup, I was cringing when he did that. For that round over one too (3:20), he should've made SURE to say not to push it in too far, because the collet could (only) be gripping the flared portion...yikes!
I bumped into 731 Woodworks a few days ago as I was getting ready to unpack a jobsite table saw I got as a birthday gift two years ago (!). Now, I can't help watching at least two of your videos each day. I'm a weekend woodworker in Colombia (South America) and I must say that the clarity, usefulness of the information, rhythm and general vibe of your content is just hypnotic. Please accept my compliments and thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I'm retired, and we just moved into a new house after 30 years in the last one. Back to square one and I have a number of projects lined up. I considered myself *fairly* knowledgeable, but with all the online resources felt it was a good idea to check out not only online reviews, but also videos on technique and safety. I've found this channel invaluable for both, and it's become one of the ones I automatically check first on a given area I'm looking for guidance on. As usual, it's staggering how much I didn't know. I had almost talked myself into just forgoing a router as an option altogether. This video made me think again, which is what you are looking for when you view this kind of content. As Siskel and Ebert used to say, "Thumbs up, way up."
As a workshop joiner of over 40 years, most of what you say is sound advice. For beginners -get used to listening to the sounds coming from the machine and the wood. With experience you will learn things like the correct speed, changes in wood density and faults in the material. Never stop the router with the cutter engaged with the wood. Never put the router down with the cutter still spinning. Always make sure you can make a complete pass without snagging the power cable. If the bearing surface is small, consider ways to support at least half the base which helps prevent the router tipping over....Routers and their usage is a huge subject
As a beginner, I don't know what you may have missed but I now know more than I knew before watching your video. You don't know what you don't know, thank you for a good start.
I just picked up a router at a yard sale. I have always wanted one, but knew nothing about how to do what I already knew they were capable of. After devouring as much info as I could on UA-cam, I bookmarked this video. I don;t know what's missing either, but it sure seems comprehensive. I have to admit I'm a bit scared of it now, but I suppose it'll give me respect for the dangers. I can't wait to use it!
perfect reply -- well stated.
Definitely read the comments here for more insight!
@@RubyRedDances Yelp, the wealth of knowledge that is often found in reading the comment section is more rewarding than the original content it self.
1/2 inch shank tends to vibrate less than 1/4 inch reducing chatter. Also I never set a bit against the stop, on some routers when you do this you cannot tighten as tight as possible. I always seat the bit and lift it about an 1/8 inch or so so when tightening so the collet can clinch down all the way.
Correct.
I learned the hard way, when i was young and I put a 1/4" bit in my dads craftsman router, and it loosened, but didn't fly out.
I work in a millshop, and everyone is told the correct way, over and over until they can be trusted.
We've had big bits hit the ceiling before, luckily nobody was in the way.
In a Corian shop, you get to know routers quite well.
I use 1/2" bits whenever I can because of smoothness and less vibration.
About the collet not closeing down all the way. These collets work by haveing a slight taper going in, so when you tighten the nut it pushes the collet into the taper, which in turn compresses the collet onto the bit. (Hence the slots in the collet.) Drill chucks, like on a drill press or Dremel / die grinder, work the other way round, pushing thir 3 clamping prongs out. So you can put a drill al the way to the back in a chuck, but with a collet it will reduce clamping force.
Also please keep in mind that the taper on a collet is way more gradual than on a chuck, meaning that it won't be able to compansate for a big difference in shank diameter. If a bit feels very loose, or isn't immediately grabbed by the collet when tightening, please check twice if it actully fits right.
This is done fore higher clamping force, as up- and down cut bits create axial forces when cutting. In the case of upcut bits, trying to pull the bit out of the collet, so additional clamping force is needed to secure the bit in place as compared to drills, which get pushed into the respective chuck.
8:30 Rather use the round side of the router base than flat side. When using the flat side any rotation of the router will push the router bit away from the guide line. In your case, your slot/hole will not be straight. On the other hand, when using the round side of the router base, it does not matter if you rotate the router as long as the round side of the router base stays at the guide. The cutting line will stay straight anyway.
Great video!
Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
^this
He could have shown how to use a tapered cylinder in the chuck to center the router base, so that the offset remains consistent though out rotation of the base l.
Here's a tip. Use the round edge as already stated. Mark the router plate in one spot with a sharpie. That is the spot to put against the work to get a consistent work offset.
So what's the straight side for?
I tend to roll my router curved frame against the fence doing rabbets. You get good smooth movement and steady feed instead of trying to keep the flat lined up to the fence.
Good informative video for beginners. I’ve been using routers for nearly 50 years as a boatbuilder and have found that beginners are not comfortable using routers and shapers. Good instruction and practice is what is needed. By the way, it is break, not brake.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that caught the misspelled word. Things like that really bother me.
@@billyboyblue17 It’s the world we live in.
@@billyboyblue17 I expect some software did this.
Very useful, especially outside=anticlockwise - inside=clockwise.
Thanks for taking the time to make this
This is more of a general rule. There are times where this might not be best.
It is always the same direction actually and easier to remember as "it cuts forward on the left side" :)
@@e.t.preppin7084 Like mounted upside-down in a router table...
@@TunaSoda That's useful
Mate, in spite of the sheer amount of bits you covered in this video, it’s the clearest, most informative video I’ve seen on routers. And no irritating background music either.
Nice one!
Bench cookies - $40-$60 for a four pack. Hockey pucks - $40 for a twelve pack. It was an easy choice for me as the hockey pucks fulfill my Canadian mandate to have something related to hockey in the workshop.
Canadians know how to play Hocky? huh.... interesting... :P
That's a great idea. I just got 12 for 21 bucks
I did the same too. One thing that's worth considering - use some anti-slip tape on your pucks. Stops 'em sliding all over your workbench when you use them.
plus you can take them to the rink after and snipe some bar w/ them
So do you mix maple syrup into your resin? Got Alanis Morisette music playing in your workshop?
Great videos. I found you last week. I hope the custom master closet turns out well.
Thanks, very good. Two little things to add... Don't insert a bit all the way to the bottom and tighten the collet. The bit can get locked in and be very difficult to remove. And some collets need to be loosened and then unscrewed even further to turn the bit loose.
this should be pinned, quite an important piece of advice that was left out of the video.
Always wondered why they always say not to seat the bit all the way down. Everyone mentions it, but they never explain why. Thanks for the info!
@@Willybeanmcgraw go look at 3:15 in the video. Look at where the shank meets the cutting portion of the round over bit. You’ll notice it flairs out a little as it meets. If that bit is seated all the way down your Collette will grab the flair and not have full hold of the shank. Potential for the bit to come out if that’s the case. I’m sure there are other reasons not to seat it all the way but that is my main reason.
Also if it’s bottomed out, in some collets it can prevent the collets from locking properly. Insert it to the bottom then pull up a 1/16”(about).
Here in Europe you must stay alert when buying bits, we have 6 mm , 1/4" , 8 mm, 12 mm and 1/2" bits
My Makita 18v router takes 6 mm and 8 mm bits, my Bosch 12v router takes 6 mm and 1/4" bits .
So true. This is a great video. A router is actually a very dangerous tool which usually comes with minimal instructions. Some of them (including high end ones) have pour design for such basic activities as changing the bits or collets. Dust extraction is always hopeless. I've been using them for about 40 years, but when I started I didn't know a thing and there was really no help out there. I consider myself very lucky. Finally, safety glasses and respirator always the top tips.
Agree on the respirator. My lungs felt horrible after my first job.
"it doesn't matter". It might matter if the bit is not centered on the face plate. Best practice is to make a mark on the router base and keep that mark against the piece you are routing
@@jimweisgram9185 I'm very liberal with marking my tools, to prevent mistakes. Put a temporary arrow on my router table to prevent that one!
I made one of these mistakes today while cutting out a sink hole in a counter top. After cutting the sides with a circular saw I used the router to cut the rounded corners with a 1/4 inch straight bit. I tried to cut all the way through and after burning my way through a half inch of it I stopped and decided to just make multiple passes at shallower depths. Worked much better!
One thing you did mention but I don't think you stresses enough is going the right direction when routing. Most of your tips are great for someone setting up a shop with jigs and routing tabes and such. Most beginners/ amateurs buy a router for small projects or worksite jobs so most are using them freehand and direction makes a world of difference.
Good video, Lots of info in a small package. A couple of comments:. Because most routers use a tapered collet to hold the bit, the bit is drawn downward when the collet is tightened. If the bit is on the bottom of the collet hole, the collet can't be completely tightened and the bit can come out during use. I have a box that proves this point. You can see the botched groove where the bit came through the side because it wasn't tightened correctly. Always have the bit at least 1/8 inch from the bottom before tightening. 1/4 inch is better. Tightening the bit hard when bottomed can also cause it to jam in the collet and be extremely hard to get out. Thanks for the good work!
Outstanding video. I bought a router on sale not long ago without much knowledge on how to use them or what they were used for, just led to believe they can be used to make almost anything.
You were extremely articulate, relevant material was presented in an easy to understand way and you didnt ramble. You had my full attention the entire video. Well done, sir and I look forward to your other videos.
I might mention when retrieving a bit from a holding/storage device, is to pay extra attention to the cutting edge to prevent slicing your fingers when pulling bit free. A glove or shop rag will prevent injury.
I'm new to woodworking and just picked up a router. Great info, thanks!
Awesome! Glad to help out.
Great video Matt! One other thing to mention - if you're going to buy a router table, buy a good one, like the Bosch one or don't bother. I had an old Craftsman one that was my Dad's, and while it was metal, it was too thin, so the metal would flex or bow, causing the fence not to stay square to the table, or the fence to twist / rack, it was just...bad) and both my Dad and I found ourselves constantly trying to find ways NOT to use it or having to modify it to make repeatable cuts. Bought the Bosch one on prime day, and I am glad I did. It actually works really well.
As an alternative and commonly available budget option for router bits, the Freud Diablo bits are about the same quality as the Bosch bits. At least here in the northeast, Home Depot carries Diablo and Lowe's carries Bosch, and both brands offer a wide variety of bit shapes and sizes.
I would also mention that if you're ordering or buying any bit which has a bearing on it, make sure you buy an extra bearing if it doesn't come with one. Some do and some don't but if you have the spare on hand, you'll probably never need it.
Also, you really need to pay attention to the RPM settings. Since the routers I have with variable speed typically don't tell you the RPM on the dial and just have a 1 through 5, read the manual, find where it tells you you what number translates to what RPM, and keep it handy.
Here's a brief story about how I learned that all of those matter, in a single Saturday while building my previous desk:
The first piece of oak 1x3 got ruined when the bearing seized, causing the bit to skip / jump instead of gliding along, just enough to chip out a chunk. My mistakes were using older bit and taking too deep of a cut in one pass, with the RPM set WAY too high. Speed 4 on the Craftsman router I had borrowed from my Dad was definitely not the same RPM as speed 4 on my Rigid trim router. It turns out that speed 4 on the Craftsman was 24,000 RPM but the bit was only rated for 18,000. So, you know, only about 33% over the rated speed for the bearing, which is why it seized. For context, and how I made this mistake - speed 4 on my Rigid trim router was 18,000 and I just didn't think to check.
On the second piece, with a new bearing on the bit after gently dressing the cutting edges and the RPM correctly set this time routed it no problem...but it split when I tightened the last screw. It was one of "those days". My mistake this time was forgetting that order of operation matters. After cutting the round over on the top edge, where the piece split did not have a whole lot of material left and I should have screwed the piece on first then routed it in place.
After the third trip to the store and doubling up on my "stupid tax" for the day, it was finally done.
Good information. I built my own router table from double surface Baltic Birch plywood and a hardwood frame that was jointed and planed. I made mortise and tenon joints and glued them.
A great teacher taught me to do all of your woodworking but with metal. He was an old blacksmith. He taught me how to weld, and temper metal while making detailed parts, half welder, half machinist without the machine shop. I'm now trying my hand at woodworking and this video reminds me of his tutelage.
3:28 1) if you bottom out, lift the bit about 1/8". 2) most router bits over 1/4" cutting area, usually have a curve at the shaft to cutterhead. You have to make sure that curve is completely exposed.
Word is, bottoming out doesn't occur in Canada these days.
Great video for a guy just getting going. You took the fear out of how to use a router. Thank you
Home depot sells a 15-bit set by Ryobi that can usually be found for $40 with pretty good ratings. Its selection is pretty comprehensive too.
Rockler's got a super pack of the bench cookies that comes with 8 plus the 3/4" dog hole lifts and finishing point covers.
A tip I give to new users is, when putting a bit in the router(round over, trim, molding ETC) do not push it right down,as there is a curve on the shaft and they have been known to come loose.To cut that out,I always use a rubber ring washer (same size as the shank) so it never happens
Agreed - and quite a few bits have lines on the shank to show how far they should be inserted into the chuck.
@@lafamillecarrington Thanks for that.I have been routing for 40 yrs and never noticed that.
Also, the fact that the tapered collet needs to have available room to tighten inwards, and if bottomed out, no more movement to tighten.
So basically there are several reasons to watch how far the bit is put in.
The small radius at the business side, interfering, and the bottoming out, that reduces tightening.
@@richtomlinson7090 best explanation! A shot in the dark: Rich Tomlinson of Newtown, Bucks County PA?
@@leehaelters6182
From Schenectady New York.
im pretty overwhelmed by the amount of information about routers but this was very helpful
For the love of all things though, do NOT put the bit into the collet all the way. Needs room to expand with heat. Trust me. Read your manual.
Good luck and enjoy!
On your router table, direct you used on outside cut was clockwise, does that make any difference?
Thanks, great video as I'm learning.
on your kickback clip you’re feeding from the wrong side. work right to left on a table and use the starter pin
Glad to see that someone else noticed that he did not use a starter pin and am surprised that he did not even mention the use of one in the video as it's a basic safety feature.
Ha! Came to the comments to see if anyone else noticed the lack of a starter pin. 👍
He might have done it on purpose to make the video. Dangerous if so
Guess I need to find out what a starter pin is.
@@jasonmershon3941 it screws into the top of the router table and give you something to push the work into when using guided bits.
Great information. There are many 6mm, 3/8", or 8mm collets available as OEM parts.for Palm routers.
Thanks for the 411. I have a Bosh plunge router that I have not used but know that i gained more knowledge after watching your video, I will start destroying stuff.
Thank you for the tips and advice . I’m just trying to build my confidence with one I just purchased after I using one for 10 years due to the fact I have been scared of them since I had one kick back under my own ill experience with one and cut my hand very badly I was how ever lucky the surgeon put my fingers and hand back to working order. I’ll be watching more of your video till before going again.
Great video. I am a little intimidated by routers as I am relatively new to this. You articulated what I need to know well. Thank you
My plunge router has been the best buy of the year for me. I bought a second hand Festool plus multipoint lock template to install a single multipoint lock on a front door. I did the one door, bought a lock template and standardised 11 old doors to accept modern, standardised locks instead of the four-or-so different sizes from half a century ago. I trimmed flush some wood that held glass in place (glazing bead?). Cut a hole for ventilation so tight it's a press fit. Cut the holes in a countertop so neat as if they were from the factory. etc etc.
Looking back there are more things I could've used it for. Earlier in the renovation we removed glazing beads using a oscilating saw and man... The ammount of sanding and filler we had to use to have that look respectable again... 😅
Next on the list is probably a template to install hidden hinges and a few cabinet hinges for a swing-down ceiling in a closet. I absolutely love my router and I haven't even scratched the surface of making visible edges pretty! 😁
I too am pretty intimidated by routers, I think mostly because mine is very cheap and squirrely. I really want a plunge router though, mine is trim router from Harbor Freight
Except how to properly install a router bit.
I'm handy, but I never learned how to use a router, so I've spent the day reading and watching instructional videos like this. This is an excellent beginner router instructional video; thanks for making it.
That Makita small cord router is offered standard in my country with 1/4 in, 6mm and 8mm collets when I purchased a couple of them around five years ago. I love them and use for most of my router work. I also have two Bosch beasts for heavy duty work.
You can also get a 3/8" collet for those but I'm not sure there are that many 3/8" bits out there lol. I also use 4mm and 1/8" in my Makitas
@TunaSoda I also use 1/8 in router bits in my makitas but I need a sleeve to adapt it to use larger collet. I do not have a collet to handle them directly.
Lots of good information in the video. Here's one omission and one suggestion:
When discussing all the advantages of 1/2"-shank bits over 1/4"-shank bits, our host left out the biggest advantage. The larger shank reduces vibration, which makes the router easier to use and yields a smoother cut. Despite what you may have heard in other contexts, here bigger is better.
When using a starter pin on a router table, keep yourself (and therefore your leverage) behind the pin as much as possible. Then, pivot the work slowly into the bit. The starter pin should give you enough control so the workpiece won't be shot off the router table (as we saw in the video). When done with the proper technique, you shouldn't have to run the router at a slower speed than you'd normally use for that size bit.
After buying a Craftsman 20v cordless 1/4" impact driver a few years ago in a Black Friday sale, I have been buying additional 20v cordless tools as needed. It may not be what other woodworkers would buy but they serve my needs. I like that I can take a fully charged battery & slap it on a tool & instantly get to work. Two years ago, a cordless trim router would have been handy for cutting mortises for door hinges where I had no access to 120v power. I now have a cordless Craftsman 20v trim router for in shop & as well for on-site cutting chores. I have other bigger corded routers for in shop work.
In metric there are usually 6mm, 8mm and 12mm bits.
The makita can handle both 8mm and 6mm (and 1/4 inch).
I usually get both metric and inch collets as it depends where you get your bits from...
Good video! I like using my D Handle Base when making those long dados. Easy to use with a straight edge as a guide.
Awesome video as always! One thing I’d love to see addressed in beginner router videos is the proper way to set up the plunge feature. Everyone seems to gloss over the set up or go through it quickly. Even the directions that come with the router aren’t thorough. When I got my Triton it was so frustrating as I understood the basics but had so much trouble dialing it in! I know new plunge users would appreciate a clear tutorial on the setup!
I'm a weekend warrior and looking to expand into routers. This was helpful in just getting some basics. Thank you
One minor correction. The 1/2 inch shanks are less likely to break not brake.
LOL! Also, depending on the steel they're made of, some 1/4" bits can bend the shank rather than breaking, which is scary.
Robert, have you even known a 1/4" to break, I am asking because I am seriously considering changing all my stuff to 1/4 " for speed and the cost of buying a set of each size?
@@jim99fulI've seen 1/4" bits break before, although it's usually because they were poor quality metal
@@jim99ful - I've never had one break (or brake), but I did have one slip out of the collet when I was using a trim router. Having one of those suckers gain its freedom at over 20 000 RPM is a serious "Got your attention now, don't we?" moment. Granted it was my own damned fault for not tightening it enough before using it, but that is a moment when you take rapid inventory of all your body parts
As far as collet size on a router I always understood 1/2 inch collet has more stability and less vibration but are more expensive.
Nice review. I put an O-ring on my bit shanks. This prevents me from having the collet trying clamp on the transition between shank and body of the bit.
Perfect timing bc I was about to purchase a set of router bits literally an hour ago and decided not to until I looked into them further.
I saw somewhere that you aren’t supposed bottom out the bit in the collet because as you tighten the collet it draws down. If the bit is already at the bottom it may not be able to move down enough to get as tight as it should be and could slip a little.
Absolutely correct. Glad that folks like you are peppering this comment section with that observation, as a backstop to that dangerous assertion at 3:00 mins!
This was wonderful for this rookie. Ive been away from my tools for 5 years due to some unfortunate health and surgery issues. I got a router just before all that; wanted to invest more into wood working. I just got my workshop setup this week and one of the first things I wanted to try was my router, but was immediately intimidated and this video was a really nice way to pick up where I left off.
Excellent video. Even for a not so beginner.
As a newbe to routers, thanks for the insights, very useful.
For all the trolls that just had to say something negative, I'm 70 years old, from Midwest farm country as a child moved to big city, big familie(s), inventer,creator, handyman, engineer, this video will go to my save later file and stay there. Currently moved off grid and building 'everything' and loved every minute.
Thanks to the author.
Congrats on making the move ! I can relate bc I am a handyman, mechanic and engineer. I also enjoy designing and building things in my spare time.
I’ve been wanting a router for a while now. This video has been very helpful. Thank you
Um I think you got the bearing locations mixed up. Top bearing is between the bit and the Collette. Bottom bearing is at the end of the bit.
Wouldn’t that also depend on which way the router is oriented?
@@Damon_Barber no. It's always shank down.
Top/Up = towards router
Bottom/Down = away from router
Router tables weren't invented until well after the router and it was always assumed the router bit is facing down.
This feels highly pedantic and I don’t see why this would really matter outside of manufacturing. I’ve seen people call them top or bottom bearings based on the orientation and have never once been confused by what was meant. As long as you are clear about which one you’re talking about, it’s not important what naming convention you use.
@@TheHeadincharge It is important because words have meaning. If we just allow words to have two opposite meanings, then it is impossible to follow the language. These words make it possible to purchase the correct router bit without studying the picture in extreme detail to make sure it meets a buyer's needs.
Great video! Probably one of the best overall intros to routers I've seen. Thanks!
I have an old fixed-base Craftsman router I got in 1975 but I don't use it often enough to feel like I'm as proficient with it as I should be. Nevertheless, I do get some work done with it now and again and I still have 8 fingers and two thumbs, so all is good.
You forgot to mention the main reason there was kickback on the router table when using the temple was because you ran the material in the wrong direction.
That is something that takes some relearning when a person first using a router table.
I recently was redoing the cabinet doors in my kitchen that were going to have glass inserts and I got a set of router bits for the styles and rails, and those things were beasts. They make the work a lot easier and faster. I usually prefer my router table to using the table saw if both will do the job.
Don’t forget to occasionally check your bearing set screws. I bought a new whiteside bit and didn’t check this and during a cut the bit literally fell out at speed. Scared the crap out of me. Of course the set screw was lost. I called Whiteside and they sent me a new set screw.
Another good jig is the Jasper circle cutting jigs. I have a couple different ones and think I can cut 1” - 5’ circles. I started buying tools so I could build speaker cabinets so those jigs are great for driver holes, or getting the outside of the drivers flush with the cabinet face.
It’s a bit simpler here in Australia. As a Woodwork teacher with over 40 years in the classroom, we teach a Groove runs along the grain and a Trench runs across the grain. We don’t use the word Dado. A Groove or Trench that does not go all the cross the board or along the board can be known as ‘stopped’. Lloyd
Describing the cutting edge like a saw blade is the best thing I've heard in years. You wouldn't feed wood through a table saw backwards so the same thing applies to a router bit. (Rarely needed climb cuts excepted, of course) (Although I probably shouldn't have said that last bit because you would have got more comments to help your video). Well done.
"99% of Beginners Don't Know the Basics of Router Bits". No kidding. That's why we're called beginners.
🤣🤣🤣🤣😜
Lol I thought the same thing
That's what she said!
I absolutely love routers. The router table was one of the first big purchases I made and have never regretted it other than I wish I would’ve went with one that had a more premium fence but in all reality, mine does what I need. I really think a good compression bit is worth its wait in gold. Routers are one of my biggest temptations. Although I have everything I need, I always have to fight myself not to buy more
Just as a note, I have never been a big fan of many of their tools, but I absolutely love my Porter-Cable plunge router. I like its flexibility and general ease of use as well as ease of setup.
Good video. I just realized my dream of getting a router . It’s a Milwaukee corded. The cheaper one of the two I’ve seen. $85 (they’re $189 new at Home Repo) used including the bit set. Master grip bit set with 4 additional bits. An 18 piece set, and now I’ve bought a router table too. Thanx for the orientation!
Been watching you for a while now, off and on. Love the way explain everything. Recently watched your breakdown of palm routers, I was looking for one at the time. I ended up buying a Hoyoa palm router off amazon. I don’t recall you using this particular router in your video but this one had everything I thought I needed including variable speed and a round dust port. Time will tell about the rest but it did have great reviews. Keep the videos coming, I learning a lot.
Excellent video, very informative. I have never owned a Whiteside bit but have gotten great service from Freud and Bosch bits. My fixed-base, corded router is a Miluakee. It has a very good adjustment mechanism. It's a bit cumbersome to dig out and set up. Most router tasks are light duty, and I have a DeWalt trim router on order. I picked DeWalt simply because I already have batteries and chargers and have gotten good service from DeWalt tools.
Thank you very much for this post. It is a really great overview for the beginner router. I just picked up a Dewalt cordless for Xmas.
This was such a useful video, thanks a lot! I've always wanted a router because I saw them as the most versatile tool you could have - especially when you like to do all your stuff yourself, like me - but I was totally clueless about how to start and which essentials to get. This helped me so much :D
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks! This was a great video.
Could you elaborate the part about "clockwise on the outside, counter-clockwise on the inside"? I didn't quite get the logic behind that.
Extremely helpful!! I've put off getting a router for years - my carpentry needs are simple and I make rudimentary basic things - so this vid was perfect, also very nice router tray I might add!! :)
This was a very helpful video! A lot of tools are pretty well self explanatory. For example, a miter saw. Generally you don't switch blades all that often and there is one direction of cutting. With a router, there are so many choices and little decisions you have to make. To be honest, I have not only been unsure of which blade to use from time to time, but afraid of ruining my piece or getting hurt by improper use, that I don't use the router nearly as often as I should. For those reasons, I found this a very valuable video.
Very informative for just a regular guy diyer who dreams of one day building a guitar or simple things. Thanks so much. This is very informative even for someone like me who always thinks "man if i had tools i could do that or build that or fix that" but also lacks the experience or knowledge. So these sorts of things are helpful to us non pros.
Good start. Just to straighten things out a bit; the collet is the piece that's squeezed by the nut to hold the shaft of the bit in the shaft of the router. The item that adapts a 1/2" router to 1/4" id a reducer.
I bought my first router last week and I am excited to learn how to use this tool. A lot of good info in the video.
Right hand rule. Lumber under thumber.
Great tutorial on router fundamentals and pro tips and products.
As a novice I now know much more than I did before I watched the video and I am now looking forward to having a go at making a lot of different things so thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Very useful information disseminated in an efficient, professional manner. Kudos. Keep 'em coming.
Brilliant video with no BS. I agree that very few beginners would not learn something from watching.
This video was extremely helpful, being that I have a few bits already. Have'nt used any yet .Thank you for sharing the nformation
Thanks! I learned new info. Why not to use straight edge on the router base?
This is the best & most comprehensive introduction to routers I've ever seen.
I have that Makita router on my Shapeoko and it takes all of these shank sizes: 3mm, 6mm, 8mm, 1/8" and 1/4". It comes with some of these collet chucks, some of them you need to buy.
Well done. Wood working 23 years and still picked up some good tips. Thanks
So much brilliant information here for a beginner I will be watching the video many times. I have just started using my router and am loving it. Your videos are the best out there. Thanks George U.K.
Thanks for all of this info!!! Woodworking newbie here and I have watched several of your videos and purchased some of your recommended power tools as well.
Great presentation. Good editing too. Thanks for the run down on routers for beginners.
I ran across your channel and glad i did. I'm relatively new to woodworking and love learning something new. You have a new follower.
Very good video. Liked the info.
Just one correction: where you showed 45deg angle( with red lines) presentation is 135deg. It would be perfect if you correct the error
Thank you for all the knowledge you have taught throughout your videos.
I learned a bit from both your video AND the comments, Thanks and best wishes from the U K
Wish I had this video when I first bought a router. Quite a complex scary tool for a newbie and a no nonsense video is what’s needed to understand it.
Probably my favourite power tool nowadays.
Every time I watch your video, I learn something. Thank you
This was great. I am now subscribed and want to see more on wood working tools from you. Thank you for all the great information!!!
Thank you. Great presentation. It's been years since I did any woodworking, my Dad was teaching me but he passed away. My Mother didn't think that I had any right to his tools because she disapproved of women doing wood working. I demanded at least some of my Father's tools as I was closer to him than either of my brothers and they returned his old broken down table saw. So anything I knew was lost to time saving up the tools and with the help of Covid losing my short term memory. Needless to say I will be saving your videos.
This is the best summary of all the different router bit options I've seen - well done!
Wow - GREAT video. Thanks. This is really a woodworking video, not just a tool shuck. I’ve been using a router in a table (Bosch) and a trim router (DeWalt cordless) for years - I’m fairly accomplished. But you have definitely added to my woodworking knowledge and skill - Thank you! You have taken the mystery out of router bits. You talked about feed direction - knew about that, but many newbies don’t. All in all an excellent video. Thanks again!
Excellent tutorial on routers, thanks!
THIS was Absolutely HELPFUL! Thanks! I'd like to make a grove at the bottom of a door slab for a barn door guide...what's a good bit to use for that where i can do it with the door slab laying on its side?
Thank you for all the detailed information. While I'm not a total novice, I'm far from an expert and the more knowledgeable I am about tools, the better my work becomes, and my confidence increases. I appreciate you!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow thank you this is perfect for a beginner like me. I knew a little but I learned a lot from this video.
Great video. I think this is the third video of yours I have watched, and each one was excellent! Which for me earns you a subscribe.
Good job. I use rubber O-rings 1/4 and 1/2 to keep the router bit from bottoming out. I have had a router bit fly out of the router because I bottomed out the bit, {twice}. Very scary you don't know where that bit is going. I bottom out the bit then pull it up about an 1/8 of an inch. Once the O-ring is in place you never need to remove it and the has never been effected by the heat from the bit. A good rule of thumb for depth of cut is to never cut deeper than half the diameter of the bit. 1/4 inch bit no more than 1/8 " . Can you make a video explaining how to use variable sped tools? Again good job Thanks
As a beginner, I thought your video was well done and very informative. Thank you!