Also a very good way to cover up an oops moment. Nice solution Wink, and it is easily modified when a different job pops up (to some degree anyhow) cheers!
I know Mark well. The 3 of us follow along with the same approach to things. I enjoyed that last post of his with the sacrificial holder/chuck. A simple thing like that could have saved us both a bunch of time and frustration over the years eh. I worked with a terribly worn chuck for many years. Any setup could not be disturbed till finished or had to go into an old, worn out 4 jaw. Finally one summer breakup when the logging roads were thawing and both the boss and the company comptroller were out of country I ordered a new chuck. I got a blast when they got back but as soon as I plead my case again they both realized how difficult and time consuming the old chuck was. It is now a boat ancor on the west coast of BC. I have been told it works quite well, LOL. Love the post. Who said rules are made to ignore. Whoever said that is my oldest, best friend eh, LOL. Thanks and I will see you next post my friend.
What a brilliant solution, using that part of the chuck jaw that’s never been any good for holding work. I commend you sir, I’ll even do a dance too. Thank you.
Winky. In the UK we can buy what they call soft jaws. exactly fitting soft steel jaws that have no shape at all. You machine them to whatever diameter and depth you need, internal or external . On CNC lathes they are made from Aluminium, machined by the operator to accept parts, for second operation without damaging the newly machined part. Getting good at your dancing now. Regards from Australia.
I had to go out and look at my jaws but they are sharp edge. I have 3D printed different thickness of spiders that seem to work well. That and just making some size specific split collets. Its just what works.
Excellent solution and saves messing about trying to find a suitable block or parallels to square the job. Now, I wonder how hard my chuck jaws are? 🤔.
Hi Mark - been a while since we saw a dance, nice job. Have you considered making a shoe or slipper to go over your chuck jaws and retained with a screw or bolt - drilled and tapped on the top of the jaw? This way you could make sacrificial soft jaws to either fully engage the inner jaw (brass of copper) or something that can be proud of the jaw for custom cutting. Stay safe and well :)
If all you're going to do is bore a hole in a washer you don't need to have it hanging out the end of the jaws, and you certianly don't need to machine them. You can put it farther back, or even back to the face of the chuck where it might even be parallel! But......if you want to true up a thin piece of material, a disc, all I do is put it in the chuck a bit back from the jaw faces and tighten with a slight bit of pressure on the jaws. I then put a boring bar in the tool holder, set the lathe to a slow speed and run it backwards. I slowly offer the tool up against the part about halfway between the center and the outer edge of the part (so the tool doesn't hit the jaws). As you feed the tool in very slowly and it touches the face of the disc, the part will true up and you will no longer see it wobble. Stop the lathe, tighten the jaws and proceed to drill your hole as usual. Like anything else on the lathe, you need to learn how and develop your skill to use this method. I have been doing it for years, works well. If you use a plain bar of material instead of a cutter you don't have to run the lathe backwards. Its a pity one can't find soft jaws for these chinese chucks. I have several of these chucks and they work well.
This modification was not made out of need, there are many way to do the same thing, This modification was made for convenience. I know the end of the jaws is not the ideal place to clamp but I don't need to do heavy cuts to surface a small disk. This mod is idle for say, reducing the thickness of an 1/8" thick spacer. I used it frequently and almost never miss that metal is took out to cut the notch on my check.
what would happen if you reversed your jaws? Granted the part would be held deeper down but would it not be held true at least? I do like this mod if it works at different sized materials. It would be interesting to see accuracy loss holding different diameter materials. That's probably more of an issue(of the chuck) regardless of the mod but
My modification is likely a bit more accurate at least at one diameter. I've tried turning the jaws over. First you can't face the part, second you can't clamp very small and third, when you are able to the jaws are in the way if you want to drill.
Wouldn't a chuck "spider" accomplish the same thing but with a bit more flexibility to hold parts with more rigidity and strength? However your solution certainly is simple and quick.
Yeah, I need to makes some, this is a very small ledge for holding narrow stock. It I want to hold somethin longer I'll use a spider. I've used square stock a lot for this too. In this case I just I increased the usefulness by removing a useless bevel on the end of the jaw. It works great!
Seeing that you're not facing the surface off you can move it a little bit further into the truck away from the bevel. Then use two parallels on the Chuck body face and push the part and the parallels against it it will make your peace parallel with the Chuck.
I think that the washer would fit against the face of the chuck in this instance. Just like piece he clamped up on when he machined the jaws. Wouldn't work with smaller diameters.
I can see where that would work but this method works for any diameter. Also it didn't take anything away from the function of the jaws as the existing bevel made the very end of the jaws useless. I've probably used this modification 50 times already. Of course "never say never" you might have a better way so please share.
You didn't really change the face of the jaws, you just cut a square area were the useless camfer was. This should give some people some ideas. Good one
@@WinkysWorkshop Maybe you should think about building from those a demountable one and thus be able to manufacture sets of claws for very little money and adapt them according to the need of the job... that's how I consider it more versatile to use soft claws... greetings from Spain
There's better ways to than that, and tearing up your chuck. Put some steel parallels against the chuck face, pushed your part against them, tighten down and pull the parallels out ....it will run flat with in a couple thousandths
If I had a $400 plus chuck I might feel different. The bevel at the tip of the jaws was useless anyway so I didn't tear anything up, I improved it. Yes there are other ways to do this but I will say, for some things this is much faster and easier than parallels. In fact, with the bevel parallels would not have allowed me to face an 1/8" disk. I've already used it several times. I should have done it years ago.
yes but the way he has modified his jaws is quick simple and no set up and it will not have any negative effects when used in any of the other normal ways its a no brainer mine have been cut like that for the same reason for 25 years and it has never affected any other work at all
Here's something I did. Make some soft jaws for your chuck. The contact point of the jaws against the scroll are line contacts so the teeth on the jaws can be replaced by a line of dowel pins, matched to the groove in the scroll, in the jaws. They just need spacing 1/3rd of the scroll pitch further along on each jaw for them to close evenly. You don't put a large clamping force on small parts so the dowels are plenty strong enough. The remaining features on the jaws are simple grooves. Since soft jaws are machined to suit for each part you use them for they do not need a huge amount of care to match them to the chuck. Pictured here www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=39065&p=845155
Thanks Mark I have been following Mark Presling for quite a while. He has an excellent channel.
Absolutely
Winky, not only do have mad skills in the shop but on the dance floor as well !!!
Haha... more like editing skills, you can make anything look good with an editor. Thanks
Also a very good way to cover up an oops moment. Nice solution Wink, and it is easily modified when a different job pops up (to some degree anyhow) cheers!
Thanks, I'm willing to give up .080" of the tip of my jaws.
I know Mark well. The 3 of us follow along with the same approach to things. I enjoyed that last post of his with the sacrificial holder/chuck. A simple thing like that could have saved us both a bunch of time and frustration over the years eh. I worked with a terribly worn chuck for many years. Any setup could not be disturbed till finished or had to go into an old, worn out 4 jaw. Finally one summer breakup when the logging roads were thawing and both the boss and the company comptroller were out of country I ordered a new chuck. I got a blast when they got back but as soon as I plead my case again they both realized how difficult and time consuming the old chuck was. It is now a boat ancor on the west coast of BC. I have been told it works quite well, LOL. Love the post. Who said rules are made to ignore. Whoever said that is my oldest, best friend eh, LOL. Thanks and I will see you next post my friend.
"The 3 of us"? And yes rules need to always be challenged. Sometimes they stop progress.
@@WinkysWorkshop You, Mark and I.
@@WinkysWorkshop I always considered the rules as guides. Always taken with a grain of salt as my dad would say.
@@TomokosEnterprize exactly
Well done Mark! Excellent extrapolation of Mark's collet.
Yeah... I think it is too. Cheap too.
Nice and simple. Well done Mark
Thanks 👍Easy for sure!
What a brilliant solution, using that part of the chuck jaw that’s never been any good for holding work. I commend you sir, I’ll even do a dance too. Thank you.
Thanks!
Nice, I typically use retaining rings in the jaw grooves to back thin work. I've got an old 3" chuck that would be good for this. Thanks for the idea.
Great idea
Nice work, thanks. Mark Presling is good too.
I agree and thanks!
That was brilliant Mark. Gilles ;)
Thanks... and simple too
I did this several years ago but I used my little tool post grinder , it has been very handy for holding thin stuff , Vey Cool upgrade !
I agree. I got a few comment from freaked out viewers however. Heck... the worst that could happen is I end up buying another chuck for $75.
Nice! Yah Presso does lots of neat stuff on his channel
Cheers
Yes it does! Thanks
good idea...
Many many thanks
I might do the same. I have some small, thin parts to make.
Thanks
JohnB
I think it's a good option especially on a cheaper chuck
Love the excitement in your voice! Woohoo haha .
Haha... I like quick easy and effective! 🙂🙂
Now you can make 2 headed quarters! ☺
Yeah, I guess I could!
Well i'll be, i bought a second hand Chuck that has that, i just thought it was from abuse lol, thanks Winky, you've enlightened me.
Interesting!
I fixed my 3-jaw like that, I had to grind mine, works great, great tip winky, keep'um coming.
Carbide would not cut the jaws?
@@WinkysWorkshop I busted two inserts and just grinded them,big time interrupted cut. But it a great setup now.
Winky. In the UK we can buy what they call soft jaws. exactly fitting soft steel jaws that have no shape at all. You machine them to whatever diameter and depth you need, internal or external . On CNC lathes they are made from Aluminium, machined by the operator to accept parts, for second operation without damaging the newly machined part. Getting good at your dancing now. Regards from Australia.
Interesting. I didn't think I could find jaws for my chinese chuck.
I had to go out and look at my jaws but they are sharp edge. I have 3D printed different thickness of spiders that seem to work well. That and just making some size specific split collets. Its just what works.
I need to make some spiders like that for larger stock.
Good idea, thanks for sharing. I've only recently discovered this channel, your videos are great.
Glad you like them! Thanks!
Excellent solution and saves messing about trying to find a suitable block or parallels to square the job. Now, I wonder how hard my chuck jaws are? 🤔.
It certainly speeds things up. Thanks
slick modification….simple/smart
Thanks, it was for sure easy.
Success feels good enjoy it. It makes up for the hours spent searching for it
Thanks! I agree
You could possibly do this on removable jaws for the inner ones. I'm going to try it. Great idea...Thanks!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching
Very ingenious
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Mark - been a while since we saw a dance, nice job. Have you considered making a shoe or slipper to go over your chuck jaws and retained with a screw or bolt - drilled and tapped on the top of the jaw? This way you could make sacrificial soft jaws to either fully engage the inner jaw (brass of copper) or something that can be proud of the jaw for custom cutting. Stay safe and well :)
I have thought about that and may end up doing this at some point but this last modification does what I need for now. Thanks
I’d like to see some made.
If all you're going to do is bore a hole in a washer you don't need to have it hanging out the end of the jaws, and you certianly don't need to machine them. You can put it farther back, or even back to the face of the chuck where it might even be parallel! But......if you want to true up a thin piece of material, a disc, all I do is put it in the chuck a bit back from the jaw faces and tighten with a slight bit of pressure on the jaws. I then put a boring bar in the tool holder, set the lathe to a slow speed and run it backwards. I slowly offer the tool up against the part about halfway between the center and the outer edge of the part (so the tool doesn't hit the jaws). As you feed the tool in very slowly and it touches the face of the disc, the part will true up and you will no longer see it wobble. Stop the lathe, tighten the jaws and proceed to drill your hole as usual. Like anything else on the lathe, you need to learn how and develop your skill to use this method. I have been doing it for years, works well. If you use a plain bar of material instead of a cutter you don't have to run the lathe backwards. Its a pity one can't find soft jaws for these chinese chucks. I have several of these chucks and they work well.
This modification was not made out of need, there are many way to do the same thing, This modification was made for convenience. I know the end of the jaws is not the ideal place to clamp but I don't need to do heavy cuts to surface a small disk. This mod is idle for say, reducing the thickness of an 1/8" thick spacer. I used it frequently and almost never miss that metal is took out to cut the notch on my check.
Great Idea! Thanks
Simple too. Thanks.
Might just have to make that modification on my chuck. Yes, I've tried to chuck a washer before!
There are several ways to do the same. I needed to get rid of the bevel anyway.
What a great idea I’ve been fighting that for years, well on to trimming my jaws.
Ha... yeah, I should have done it long ago
what would happen if you reversed your jaws? Granted the part would be held deeper down but would it not be held true at least? I do like this mod if it works at different sized materials. It would be interesting to see accuracy loss holding different diameter materials. That's probably more of an issue(of the chuck) regardless of the mod but
My modification is likely a bit more accurate at least at one diameter. I've tried turning the jaws over. First you can't face the part, second you can't clamp very small and third, when you are able to the jaws are in the way if you want to drill.
Wouldn't a chuck "spider" accomplish the same thing but with a bit more flexibility to hold parts with more rigidity and strength? However your solution certainly is simple and quick.
Yes and I need to make some. However, to get the bevel would need to go anyway so this little groove is a great option.
I won’t try this on my Bison chuck. Hardened jaws and all.
Good idea
They will cut with carbide if needed but this was a cheap chuck, I'm not sure I'd do it to a high priced chuck
Now you only need one size fender washer. By small inside diameter washers and them out to the size you need them.
True.
I would think about using chuck spiders
Yeah, I need to makes some, this is a very small ledge for holding narrow stock. It I want to hold somethin longer I'll use a spider. I've used square stock a lot for this too. In this case I just I increased the usefulness by removing a useless bevel on the end of the jaw. It works great!
Being smarter than the tools is not easy.
True :o)
Seeing that you're not facing the surface off you can move it a little bit further into the truck away from the bevel. Then use two parallels on the Chuck body face and push the part and the parallels against it it will make your peace parallel with the Chuck.
Yes I need to make some three finger inserts. There will be times when I use it to surface also.
I think that the washer would fit against the face of the chuck in this instance.
Just like piece he clamped up on when he machined the jaws.
Wouldn't work with smaller diameters.
@@stevewilliams2498 Actually it would go inside the bore but I could have used a spacer. This is just a lot easier.
That's slick
Thanks! Quick and easy too
you can also use a circlip trick. that is I guess a better solution
I can see where that would work but this method works for any diameter. Also it didn't take anything away from the function of the jaws as the existing bevel made the very end of the jaws useless. I've probably used this modification 50 times already. Of course "never say never" you might have a better way so please share.
Sweet!!
And easy too! Thanks
I'm assuming that turning the jaws around wasn't an option?
I have an outside set but in my cases the steps are in the wrong locations to work and the long parts of the jaw get in the way.
I Like It. Thank you I will give that ago.
I like it too :o)
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes I was having that same problem the other day but now I can sort the same and that will sort that.
👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks
You didn't really change the face of the jaws, you just cut a square area were the useless camfer was. This should give some people some ideas. Good one
I agree... for most things the amount of depth will be idea but it may not hole well for some stuff
I wonder how hard the jaws are on my big 3 jaw? The results speak for themselves. 😎
These were obviously soft jaws. Thanks for the idea.
Awesome. Thanks
You're welcome!
nice trick
Thanks, for sure simple
solution is soft jaws
You make do with what you have. These jaws are soft but not bolt on.
@@WinkysWorkshop Maybe you should think about building from those a demountable one and thus be able to manufacture sets of claws for very little money and adapt them according to the need of the job... that's how I consider it more versatile to use soft claws... greetings from Spain
Just like turning soft jaws...
Yep... soft too. Just not replaceable
Holy Crap! Really? There are things called "soft jaws" for that. Emergency collet's of all sizes and material just for that purpose,
Maybe I like breaking rules! Ha. This chuck was $59 bucks. I gained function and lost nothing.
Chuck step jaws are nothing new, you can buy many different internal and external ones.
These were cheap! Ha. I'm kidding. I doubt I'd find any jaws for this chuck.
well i just put a square bar thru the jaws, put the piece up to it nip em up
That works. I've done the same
Build something cool did that several years ago
Yeah... I need to get back to that. What do you suggest?
No I mean the guy who has the channel "build something cool"
@@lsandk3 I am the guy with the channel.
I don’t like it. I love it!
Thanks :o)
Good enough for a less than perfect chuck, anyway .
It was very cheap but surprisingly it works well. Honestly, I'd do this to a much more expensive chuck, it doesn't hurt.
There's better ways to than that, and tearing up your chuck. Put some steel parallels against the chuck face, pushed your part against them, tighten down and pull the parallels out ....it will run flat with in a couple thousandths
If I had a $400 plus chuck I might feel different. The bevel at the tip of the jaws was useless anyway so I didn't tear anything up, I improved it. Yes there are other ways to do this but I will say, for some things this is much faster and easier than parallels. In fact, with the bevel parallels would not have allowed me to face an 1/8" disk. I've already used it several times. I should have done it years ago.
yes but the way he has modified his jaws is quick simple and no set up and it will not have any negative effects when used in any of the other normal ways its a no brainer mine have been cut like that for the same reason for 25 years and it has never affected any other work at all
@@le3045acp You got it!
Yeah I can see that...the chamfer on the end of the jaws would serve no purpose anyway
I dislike modifying gear like that but if nothing else could handle the object..... You made it.
Buying spare jaws in the future? Joking!
A chuck with replicable jaws would be nice but honestly this modification didn't retract from the function in any way.
Here's something I did. Make some soft jaws for your chuck. The contact point of the jaws against the scroll are line contacts so the teeth on the jaws can be replaced by a line of dowel pins, matched to the groove in the scroll, in the jaws. They just need spacing 1/3rd of the scroll pitch further along on each jaw for them to close evenly. You don't put a large clamping force on small parts so the dowels are plenty strong enough. The remaining features on the jaws are simple grooves. Since soft jaws are machined to suit for each part you use them for they do not need a huge amount of care to match them to the chuck. Pictured here www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=39065&p=845155
Very cool idea! Thanks