Mind is blown! That was AWESOME! very cool Thank you so much for posting. I need one of these and it looks like I'm gonna have to make one because you can't buy every custom size you need.
Great tip! Just using a csk head screw looks surprisingly effective. Before seeing your video I would have been inclined to make a special expanding screw with a longer shallower taper.
I had a suggestion made by a couple of viewers that I think is very helpful. They suggested that the mandrel be machined slightly oversize and then machined to finish size after it is completed and put back in the lathe to mount the component. That way it will be dead on concentric. I will have to put mine in a 4 jaw chuck to get that level of accuracy. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@sharkrivermachine he only showed a portion of it, There is more in that building somewhere . I tried to put things "out of way" and he probably hasn't found them yet! The ironic part is that "AL" and I get a lot of our "stuff" from the same auction service but our paths didn't cross until the roof project.
@@sharkrivermachine You're very welcome. You can always email me at "jon" at our website, and I'll send you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and post your videos whenever you want. Looks like you're one of us :)
It'll be interesting when you go to machine the other part how well the mandrel evenly expands and see the run out. Nice way to make the mandrel you need. For further expanded use down the road, I would think it would be easy to put a small center in the bolt or make one so you could use the tailstock center with it.
This is made for the specific odd size of the cylinder. It is only about .001 to .002 undersize so I think that the runout will be minimal. It could be turned down for a smaller size. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey Steve. If the final sizing of the mandrel OD is done last, would that eliminate runout induced by the re-chucking? I did a similar job once when machining bronze valve guides. We turned $4 GM Quad 4 valve guides into $295 Lamborghini valve guides. Concentricity was of the utmost importance.
That suggestion has been made and it is a good point. I will check the runout when I use it and put in a 4 jaw chuck if necessary. When I had my automotive machine shop I had expanding mandrels for valve guides and I used them for machining custom guides. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That’s a logan? I used to have one. Love the cast iron pulley cover. Mine was worn and I didn’t know about scraping so when I finished cleaning it up and painting it it still didn’t work that well. So sold it. i kind of regret it now. With a scrape job it would gave been awesome. A very solid machine.
It is actually an Atlas 10F with am add on QC gear box. I was saving to buy a new Precision Mathews when this dropped into my lap. I have a little more work to do on it but overall a good machine. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I saw that but the bore appears to be running true. I will put a dial indicator on it before cutting. Old poor machining is what I am trying to correct. Thanks for you thoughts.
It would be more effective if you placed the mandrel in a four jaw chuck and indicated it before using. The .005" would be too much for a lot of jobs. Nice job.
Hey I wonder if you could tell me what size and make of quick change tool post you use on your lathe. I recently bought a th54 and want to add one to it. Thanks
Steve, Great little project. Thank you for sharing sir. I do have a question, did you mark the number one jaw to help re-orientate the mandrel back into position to maintain concentricity, or are you one of those lucky fellas with a true running 3 jaw chuck. At ant rate, I will have to keep this in mind and make on in the future. Joe
Checked the runout and it was less than .005 more than accurate enough for the job at hand. If more accuracy is required the final machining can be done after splitting the collet and reinstalling it prior to use. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Steve, thanks for sharing this quick & easy, but _effective_ DIY expanding mandrel. I'll be making some like this!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
very cool. i make mandrels a lot at work in the machine shop never knew why i was making them.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Very interesting way of building the expanding mandrel.Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it, hope that it was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Mind is blown! That was AWESOME! very cool Thank you so much for posting. I need one of these and it looks like I'm gonna have to make one because you can't buy every custom size you need.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Nice work Steve. Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.
Great tip! Just using a csk head screw looks surprisingly effective. Before seeing your video I would have been inclined to make a special expanding screw with a longer shallower taper.
Just a quick and dirty design and build with hardware and stock on hand. Thanks for watching.
Hi Steve,
A very good approach to making an expanding mandrel... Thanks for sharing...
Take care
Paul,,
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gday Steve, easy to make and very effective, making it simple is the best way...
Simple is good, thanks for watching and commenting.
I haven't needed to make one like this yet, but that worked out well. The aluminum is a good choice as well seeing as it shouldn't damage the bore.
It was a fun little project.
G’day Steven handy little project, thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Peter
Thank you for watching and commenting.
I like the build, everybody needs one... eventually.
You could be right about that. Thanks for watching
Perfect timing! I was just thinking through how to make one of these, and it's great to be taken through the steps by someone more experienced.
I had a suggestion made by a couple of viewers that I think is very helpful. They suggested that the mandrel be machined slightly oversize and then machined to finish size after it is completed and put back in the lathe to mount the component. That way it will be dead on concentric. I will have to put mine in a 4 jaw chuck to get that level of accuracy. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@sharkrivermachine I had heard of that technique, and was wondering whether you deliberately did it the way you did, or if it was an oversight.
Nice project Steve!
Glad you enjoyed it. I saw the haul that you took to Steve's, some heavy stuff for sure. Thanks for yo support.
@@sharkrivermachine he only showed a portion of it, There is more in that building somewhere . I tried to put things "out of way" and he probably hasn't found them yet! The ironic part is that "AL" and I get a lot of our "stuff" from the same auction service but our paths didn't cross until the roof project.
Well done Steve great video. Stay clear of those sharks.
Thanks, will do!
Nice and quick.
Thank you for watching and commenting
Very nice. I will definitely have to remember this one
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very nice work Steve.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice work. We featured this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Awesome! Thank you! I wondered where all of the extra views came from.
@@sharkrivermachine You're very welcome. You can always email me at "jon" at our website, and I'll send you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and post your videos whenever you want. Looks like you're one of us :)
I will check ii out. Thank you again. This is a great group of people.
Nice handy build...enjoyed
Thank you for commenting. I will be doing a follow up on it in my next video.
It'll be interesting when you go to machine the other part how well the mandrel evenly expands and see the run out. Nice way to make the mandrel you need. For further expanded use down the road, I would think it would be easy to put a small center in the bolt or make one so you could use the tailstock center with it.
This is made for the specific odd size of the cylinder. It is only about .001 to .002 undersize so I think that the runout will be minimal. It could be turned down for a smaller size. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice job Steve, this is something I can make. Simple is good for me 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍 for watching and commenting.
Hey Steve. If the final sizing of the mandrel OD is done last, would that eliminate runout induced by the re-chucking? I did a similar job once when machining bronze valve guides. We turned $4 GM Quad 4 valve guides into $295 Lamborghini valve guides. Concentricity was of the utmost importance.
That suggestion has been made and it is a good point. I will check the runout when I use it and put in a 4 jaw chuck if necessary. When I had my automotive machine shop I had expanding mandrels for valve guides and I used them for machining custom guides. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great job 👍
Thanks for the visit.
That’s a logan? I used to have one. Love the cast iron pulley cover. Mine was worn and I didn’t know about scraping so when I finished cleaning it up and painting it it still didn’t work that well. So sold it. i kind of regret it now. With a scrape job it would gave been awesome. A very solid machine.
It is actually an Atlas 10F with am add on QC gear box. I was saving to buy a new Precision Mathews when this dropped into my lap. I have a little more work to do on it but overall a good machine. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Maybe should have left it oversized so you could have finish dressed it before doing the job. Looks like it has some runout in your chuck now.
I saw that but the bore appears to be running true. I will put a dial indicator on it before cutting. Old poor machining is what I am trying to correct. Thanks for you thoughts.
Good idea
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Well done sir.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
It would be more effective if you placed the mandrel in a four jaw chuck and indicated it before using. The .005" would be too much for a lot of jobs. Nice job.
Hey I wonder if you could tell me what size and make of quick change tool post you use on your lathe. I recently bought a th54 and want to add one to it. Thanks
It is an AXA. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Steve,
Great little project. Thank you for sharing sir. I do have a question, did you mark the number one jaw to help re-orientate the mandrel back into position to maintain concentricity, or are you one of those lucky fellas with a true running 3 jaw chuck. At ant rate, I will have to keep this in mind and make on in the future.
Joe
I didn't, forgot to but I will be addressing the build in my next video based on the feedback that I received. Thanks for watching and commenting.
...for when a mile of runout doesn't matter?...
Checked the runout and it was less than .005 more than accurate enough for the job at hand. If more accuracy is required the final machining can be done after splitting the collet and reinstalling it prior to use. Thanks for watching and commenting.