This is a top tip for user of small import lathes . Overhang is one of those problems with small lathes that is too often overlooked. People get chatter or poor finsh and start chasing bearings , tool profiles and all sorts of rainbows, very rarely is overhang considered. This is a great mod for anyone looking at the budget for the job The Pratt Burnerd UK company made low profile chucks for this very reason but they are ££ $$ gold dust if you can find one.
I saw the Pratt chuck a while back and forgot where I saw it. It seems like they wanted over $600 for it anyway and I was not willing to pay that. Thanks for the comment and I totally agree, this is the most overlooked problem with smaller lathes.
I am impressed with the equipment. I can tell you guys enjoy your work. Derrick I don’t see a JD tractor though. I would enjoy playing with all your tool and machines. I can tell you guys are very professional. Your company s going to go far. Thanks for sending me the video. Really enjoyed it.
Excellent job, Wink. Squeaking every dimension to gain as much advantage as you can. I like your thinking, and the execution was excellent. Mart in the UK.
Well, you've made me rethink the design of the backing plate for my new 3 jaw chuck, that I've only made the 1st truing cuts on... New Morse Taper Shaft for the new drill chuck arrived yesterday, so great timing!
It's been over a year since I commented on this project and I have some observations. The vast majority of metal lathe videos on UA-cam are Chuck obsessed. Three Jaw, four jaw and collett chucks of all kinds. What I don't see enough of is Face - Plate use. Even in this video when you stated that you were at the limits of your 3 jaw chuck while you were holding the 2nd chuck to be machined. .. There was no thought of using a face plate. They have enormous advantages including minimal overhang. They excel at holding odd shaped parts too. In the "safely holding stock" department they are superior. Wakodahatchee Chris
I made a face plate about a year ago. So far I have used it to turn between centers one time. No doubt I will use it again but most often the 3 jaw or collet chuck is quicker. I do agree with you 100%. Good to hear from you!
Winky, reducing overhang sure beats tearing out bearings! "First things first" philosophy still makes sense even nowadays! Thanks! Happy New Year. Wakodahatchee Chris
I very much enjoyed watching this, and sure learned a lot. It’s great if reasoning and thoughts are included in such videos and not just the mechanical steps shown.
Definitely worth the effort and time. Anything to improve the ridgity on benchtop machines goes a long way, as you know. I would of never thought of this one. It came out real nice Winky.
Happy Belated New Year Mark. Ya know, a long time ago some bright spark wanted to improve the wheel, so he invented gears. I think you follow that mindset with how you redesign and improve your own things. Have a great 2021. Stay safe and well.
hello Wink,nice video,thank you for sharing i just ordered a new 5"" 4 jaw self centering chuck,i have a 4jaw but its not self aligning ,the new one is,i 'll make a backing plate just like yours thanks for sharing my friend....stay healthy.
I don't angle the compound for thread cutting at all, at least for 60 degree threads. Instead I have the compound set parallel to the spindle and advance it 50% of the cross-slide infeed. If you work the trigonometry, this is equivalent to angling the compound to a little under 30 degrees. For other thread angles, you don't end up with such an easy ratio, but you could draw up a table of feed increments. I sometimes do this anyway on coarse threads. Nearly everybody reduces the depth of cut as the thread depth increases, but nobody (apart from CNC lathes/CAM software) seems to take much more aggressive initial cuts. After you've checked for the correct pitch with a scratch cut, the fist pass can be the deepest. CAM software often has an 'equal volume' strategy where the same amount of metal is removed on each pass. You can eliminate a lot of the early passes!
Very cool idea!!! Although I might get lost keeping track of the cross slide position. Yes... totally agree, I could probably take .030 on the first mass... possibly more.
Nice work! A surefire way to eliminate chatter is to run your parting tool upsidedown and your lathe in reverse. The torque created when your tooling is cutting the workpiece is effectivly making the workpiece want to climb up and over the tool via the slop in the bearings. running the tool upsidedown and the machine in reverse forces the slop to be automatically taken up and viola, no chatter. Just make sure everything is locked down so your not lifting the slide or saddle.
As long as you don't have a screw on chuck this works. On some lathes you can run forward and upside down on the back side. On my lathe there isn't room on the back side and it has a screw on chuck. I never have much problem with cut off as long as I use the direct mount. The quick change post is not solid enough... Or let just say it revels the weakness of the compound . The only reason I used the cutoff tool was because I knew it would make chatter show up if the overhang was a problem. It did fairly well. Small spindles as well as the screw mount are not ideal but their strength goes up exponentially as spindle size goes up.
An oldtimers trick to determine how close a mating surface was , was to place a single cigarette paper between the 2 faces and carefully screw them together until pressure was felt then back off & check the paper , if the paper was crushed it would be darker where it was crushed . Also , cigarette paper is only about 0.001 thick . It's a good indicator of fit . I've used it to check the fit of soft jaws often . Hope this helps . Happy New Year !!! B. Fox
At 27:05, . Nord-Lock washers need 2 washers stacked to work as advertised, 1 washer is just a wavy load spreader. ALSO, I would like to have seen some of you hand work on the carriage, while threading. Nice video! . Thanks for making your videos!
You are right, these washers were not Nord-lock, I called then by the wrong name. They are called Schnorr washers www.fastenal.com/products/details/0130153 . Thanks!
Love your videos, Mark! On light duty lathes like yours (and mine) the weakest link in the stiffness chain is usually the compound and its connection to the cross-slide. On some lathes you can place a machinist jack under the cutoff tool to shunt the cutting force directly to cross-slide. Some people replace their compounds with a solid block. Absent one of these remedies, keep the cutting edge of the tool as close to the center of the cross-slide foot as practical (both X & Y directions). Happy New Year!
Thanks. In general I agree that the compound is a weakness however, overhang is also a huge problem. I have videos on 2 types of cut off tools that address the compound weakness. The first video uses a tool holder with a GTN3 insert. It has a leg that sits on a 1/2" plate that straddles the bed. It worked well but the tool that holds the insert was a bit weak. If the insert got the slightest bit dull it would wipe out the tool. The second cut off tool is the one seen in this video. It works perfect every time but when you install a chuck with overhang is chatters bad. I made a steel backing plate and it helped but did not fix the check. This chuck works pretty good although not as well as the original Logan chuck. Small spindle with a screw mount are really not very solid. On a 1.5" spindle the threads do not hold adequality.
@@WinkysWorkshop you might want to check your spindle bearing preload. I have a Grizzly G0602, which has a similar threaded spindle about 1 1/2" diameter, and a Sanou chuck similar to your new one. Since rectifying a couple of stiffness problems with the cross-slide & compound, the only chatter I ever get is a high-pitched singing on 2" diameter or larger stuff. (I do use a machinist jack for support on hard steels larger than about 1" diameter).
@@5tr41ghtGuy - I've had a Logan 200 and an 820 and as near as I can tell the bearings are (were) in great shape. The original Logan chuck performs perfect on all stock. I bought a 6 inch Shares chuck that was totally impossible. Part of the problem on the shares was bad cast on the backing plate. I replaced it with steel and improved it but it still chatter. Of course this chuck overhangs 6.5 inches. That is a lot! I have a Sanou on my south bend which is very close to the chuck I just installed. It's a good chuck. So far the new chuck is doing well but overhand should always be minimized if possible. Threaded spindles in general are not the best. It is a weakness. Check out this video... it starts in the right place. This was the cast iron plate from Shares. ua-cam.com/video/ysYusXnhCQY/v-deo.html
@@WinkysWorkshop there is of course no arguing with success ;-) It appears from drawings I've found that the Logan 800 headstock does not use opposing angular contact bearings, so any preload must exist in the bearings themselves. I also noticed that the G0602 has a 1.75" spindle, and the bending stiffness of a hollow round tube is proportional to radius^4 (to the fourth power!). As such, the extra material makes the 1.75" spindle almost twice a stiff as 1.50" in bending. Kudos on the video showing how you smoked out the deflection!
@@5tr41ghtGuy - Yeah... Logan calls it preloaded but SKF says it's low clearance. In fact, SKF said it was low clearance not zero and not negative. He said after it runs a minute of two it is zero. Interesting conversation with the factory tech support. I wish I had it recorded. Lots of controversy on the Logan bearings. Logan charges a lot of money for what they say is special ordered and made to their specs and SKF say it is not. SKF says they make bearing in a range of clearances and it's just a mater or ordering what you want.
Gday, Happy new year Mark, I wish I could think of ideas like you do, if you squeezed an O ring in the gap would it stop the chips form getting into the chuck?, it’s a shame they don’t make chucks like the original, I think it would help the smaller import type lathes with rigidity, i put a new 5” chuck on my small lathe and it knows it on there, the spindles have a lot of flex sadly, awesome job mate, Cheers Matty
@@WinkysWorkshop I've never measured chuck run out - never even considered it - so it's going to be interesting for me to see how my machines are for accuracy. As for chatter, I may have an e-mail of interest on that subject later in the week !
@@millomweb - Most 3 jaws are out .020 to .040 and to make maters worse, it changes with diameter. Looking forward to the email. I'm okay with the way this chuck performs in regards to chatter but I doubt it will match the original Logan.
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm gobsmacked at the error on 3-jaw. I knew to expect error but thought it'd be 10 thou or under. The diameter issue is down to scroll wear. Personally, I think they should be well-greased initially. I have noted that the scrolls themselves aren't accurately supported within the chuck body - so that'll be another source of error. I'm not really sure why they don't put the scroll on a longer cylinder in the chuck instead of the current 'disc' so it's properly supported for say 2" down the body of the chuck. I don't think lathe designers have done a very good job - and everyone's pretty much copied a poor design !
Great work. You have a quite powerful lathe compared with the small hobby stuff, 7 x 12, 14.. Sometimes I wonder about the concentricity but You pulled it through with grace. Well done.
When you finish the plate mounted in the lathe and get a good fit inside the chuck the only variable is the chuck itself. With that being said, I was shocked at how well the bar was centered in the chuck. Less than .0005" ! Both lathes are only 1/2 HP but I guess the 7 inch lathes are 1/4 HP.
Nice job, that's real craftmans work, very nice. You gave me some idea for my 1964 emco lathe. All thumbs up. And, happy new year, stay safe and healthy.
like the Idea, but have you considered adding a locking mechanism to keep the chuck from spinning off should you decide to turn work in the opposite direction. I've seen this done by other machinists, reverse the spindle direction, invert the cutting tool, cut from the far side of the bore, cut from left to right and leave the compound at 29.5 degrees. What do you think? Just be sure that the chuck can not unscrew itself from the spindle.
Hi Mark, going to throw my two cents in here. If you make a draw bar to fit your chuck and draw it up your chuck cannot unscrew. You lose your through hole but something like this it would not matter. You might even be able to use that sixteenth space you have. Anyway I would like to see your take on the idea as sometimes running in reverse sure can help. Dale in Canada
@@dalemcinnes1834 - interesting idea. It would likely hold well enough for threading but I wouldn't trust to hold for cutoff or heavy turning. The chuck threads have a lot of mechanical advantage over a draw bar.
Hello again Mark, I bought a Kalamazoo 6613 chuck for my Rockwell lathe specifically because it was a thin model and direct thread (no back plate needed). However I do not have a set of reverse jaws for it. Searching for that model brings up nothing. Would you tell me the make/model of the slim chuck you show on your Logan at 1:00? Since yours looks very similar to mine maybe the jaws will interchange. Thank you sir.
I wish I knew who made it. I have no reverse jaws for mine as well. The chuck is an original Logan chuck. The only thing it says on the chuck is Logan. Good luck. My new chuck seems to be working well although I'm sure the shallow chuck is better. I reduced the overhang by about 5/8 - inch. Not a huge amount but worthwhile I think. I've actually thought about modifying it a little more but I'm afraid I might weaken the chuck. The hole in the clamping area is only 1-inch and the Logan is about 1-1/2". I thought about cutting the jaws off and enlarging the hole. That would put me about 1/2" closer to the spindle.
Good job! I'll be trimming my Emco compact 5's chuck and making a new thicker spindle shaft for it along with preloaded angular contact ball bearings at some point. It should be able to cut off steel with carbide insert dry and reasonably high rpm after it's all done.
I believe the lock washers which you used for the three SHCS are called Hi collar lock washers, at least up here in BC Canada 😎😎 Nice planning and execution as usual. 👍👍👍👍
I got them off of European made printing equipment. I think I used the wrong name but here the same washer I have. www.mcmaster.com/lock-washers/belleville-spring-lock-washers-for-socket-head-screws/
@@dwightcarlson7136 - I like these washers better than the split washers but they are not common in the US. Also they are expensive.... although if they were more common the price would drop I'm sure. The best part about this style washer is quick assembly and that they are thin. With a split washer the last full turn of more is under load and a wrench is required to tighten.
Old style threaded spindles are always a challenge. Especially when your chucks weight 100 # or more. Since my lathe still has the original equipment faceplate, I used it to make a dummy spindle. On one end, I made it to match the spindle as close as I could. The other end became the sizing gauge for the threaded area. It saved me a lot of grunt, trying to manhandle the part, while in the 4 jaw, to test the fit to the spindle. Talk about looking to get your feet wet again, and sinking in to your nose ... Nearly 30 years since I'd had any real experience with any metal lathe, and no experience with internal thread, and what was my first project on this one? Yup. A new spindle adapter for the Bison 3 Jaw. My first attempt to do anything with this lathe was to cut back a welded area on a sprocket/hub assembly. I hung it on a hard spot, stalled the lathe and sprung the adapter. That happened while running it on a 1/2 hp (temporary) motor, if you can believe that. It was so weak I had to help it get started. I guess I would have ended up making that part anyway, it had too much overhang and wasn't made to register to the spindle properly ... no idea how the guy before me got away with using it.
very interesting ! your chuck differs from mine in this video.... the plastic part you took out on my chuck stablizes the end of the tighten/loosening gears.... with that plastic piece.... but on yours there are holes in the center section for the gear ends to go into.... ( that's far better than plastic I think !) but I love the way you shortened up the over-hang in this video. well done ! .... I got a question for you... every once in a while when using the half nut to thread the lever hangs up or is real stiff to disengage....... do you have any idea what would cause that ? I suspect wair in a part... but what part? the half nut???? my logan 920 is as old as I am to the month ! and we are both hanging in there at 71 ! LOL
Not sure on the half nut but that can be kind of scary. My Logan 200 was like that and I lubricated the heck out of it. It got much better. I loosened the bolts on the top front of the carriage and opened a gap just with a screw driver and squirted way oil in there. I think the way oil stays put better. I think the 920 has a sump like my 820. be careful not to get to much way oil in the sump. A little might actually be good but I filled mine with way oil and followed the gears up to the lead screw and dripped off into my catch pan. Eventually it quite doing it but it completely emptied the sump.
Hi Winky Another thoughtful video. Did you consider bolting the chuck from the front, adding 4 adjusting screws at 90 degrees and turn the chuck into a "zero adjust" Buck style chuck?
@@WinkysWorkshop I used this idea when I built an auxiliary chuck which grips in my normal 3 jaw. The auxiliary is an ER32 collet chuck. Used for finer work.
Winky, I know that you have already done the modification, BUT out of interest was the hole through the chuck small enough that you could have screw cut the chuck body ? Then you would have had even a closer overhang and all you needed was a thin sheet metal protector for the scroll. In effect as the chuck was straight out of the box, but a threaded bore.
Interesting idea although the hole in the chuck is very slightly over 1-inch and my spindle is 1.5-inch. The area where they meet is only about 1/4-inch. The one inch works okay but it's silly to make the hole that small. The Logan chuck has a 1.5 hole. I thought about opening it up a little.... if I don't go too deep it might not hurt anything.
Thanks, the insert is no longer made although there still make a variation. It's a Valenite VNMP 33 2E. I had to make the holder. The original had more back rake and it better sited for small lathes. I buy them on ebay.
tks for video , would love to see you explaining the settings for thread cutting on the same lathe, i fixed one up a year ago, really enjoy working with it.
By advancing the internal threading with the compound instead of the cross slide don't you risk a deeper length cut and a loose thread fit. Or is that so marginal and can be discounted?. I do like the idea though, it also removes weight from the end of the spindle.
The reason for advancing with the compound is so that the tool only cuts on one edge. If it was cutting on both sides it would chatter. This is standard procedure. If you start out with the right diameter, when the threads get sharp you are close to the right depth. External are easy to measure but internal is impossible. You just have to test fit
For the threading compound angle you could do it with the compound set at 29.5 just like you would for typical external threading, but instead of feeding IN you feed OUT, resulting in the material removal from the cutting edge nearest the tool post, this is what I do on my 13x40 lathe, as the carriage doesn't have enough feed in Y to get my compound on the far side, and bonus is that it is easier to reach the compound knob than if it is on the back of the machine. Maybe try it next time you need to do an internal single point thread.
With the compound set normal you are cutting on the wrong side of the threads and backlash can be an issue. The threads will drive the tool. It usually work due to the amount of power it takes to move the carriage off the lead screw backlash. The same hold true for LH threads. On external the compound should be angled toward the chuck.
@@WinkysWorkshop that would be true, except backlash works both ways. You’ll still be taking up the backlash, just doing it by pulling the tool post with the leadscrew rather than pushing.
@@gallupcustomknives2293 - I think you misunderstood. I not talking about the compound screw. I'm talking about the carriage lead screw. Every time you advance the compound you only only cutting with one side of the tool point. Normally the carriage is being pushed against the cut but if you are cutting on the other side the tool will try to drive the compound. It works but it's not ideal. There is usually enough friction between the carriage and ways to keep it from being driven but the threads.
@@WinkysWorkshop ah yes I see what you mean. Could tighten the gibs so that the leadscrew is pushing carriage but would not be perfect. You are correct. By that thinking could also put some kind of brake or leather strap on the hand wheel so that it makes the carriage drag I guess, but would still be better when it comes down to brass tacks just pushing the chip. But I can’t do that on mine haha, cross slide won’t go far enough to put the full compound on ‘backwards’
That's a great upgrade, I might have to look into doing something similar for my lathe, the overhang I have is a little crazy and it makes parting very difficult.
Wouldn't it be nice if the lathe manufacturers in China looked at this video and thought "Why don't we make thin chucks like the logan chuck for our lathes " - think of the amount of cast iron they could save and make their machines a little bit more usable at the same time ! Have you ever shown the internals of that logan chuck in your videos ? I would love to see how they achieved such a thin chuck !
Well... the chuck is only $67 bucks so I was willing to take a chance. I occasionally sharpen bits larger than 3/8 but under that I usually replace them. But yeah... I may do that in the future!
Winky, are you up for an experiment? Some time ago I had a lathe identical to the one you are using. Even oiling up the threads on the spindle did not allow me to remove the chuck without a good deal of consternation. If you will cut out a donut from thin plastic (I believe I used the lid of a Kroger carton of ice cream) and place it on the protruding spindle; threading the chuck against it, you may find it damps out some of the chatter. In addition, when you need to remove the chuck, there will be far less chance of damaging teeth on the back gear.
If you want to remove a screwed on chuck DON'T EVER USE THE BACK GEARS TO HOLD THE CHUCK FROM TURNING.........I place a 25mm diam aluminium bar on the bed and bump the chuck around against one jaw by hand on it.......no damage can happen, been doing it for the last 40 years on my old 1930 Colchester Bantam lathe.
I remove the chuck engaged in back gear all the time. I'm well aware of the possible dangers to the back gears, In fact I have repaired several on the back great on this lathe. I'm quite certain the previous owner used a sledge hammer several tines! The thing is, my chucks never get stuck and a mild tap on the chuck key with the palm of my hand loosens the chuck. The palm of my hand will not break a gear tooth.
I've never had a chuck get stuck... I wonder why they do that. I'm thinking the gasket would make things much worse. The back register is supposed to support the chuck... but who know, you maybe right
Yeah... that runout kind of freaked me out seeing as how it was only $89 bucks. It's hard to say how much my modification helped with chatter .... I think I reduced the amount by 5/8" but certainly overhang is a major concern on smaller lathes. The difference between the overhang of my original Logan chuck and the new is significant. This chuck is abut 1/3 deeper.
Very Nice!! I need to find some chuck of metal to make myself one as well. Does anyone know why backingplates are normally made out of cast iron? Is it to reduce vibrations?
Good question! The primary reason is cost but cast also has some vibration absorption ability as well. With that being said, I have improved several chucks by installing steel back plates. Small threaded spindles are weakness. You get movement at the threads when you use cast. On larger spindles this is not an issue.
Thanks Mike. I worked for a printing company designing machine improvements until I retired two years ago. I used to do a lot of work in my home shop for the company but after I retired that slowed down. Now I mostly do stuff for myself and make the youtube videos.
@@WinkysWorkshop wish I had the time, and the knowledge. Im good with my hands and always learning. Thats why I like watcing guys like you and the tradesman channel. Cool builds and always good explanations. Happy new year!
Good job. I wonder if there's a simple way to lock screw type chucks to prevent them from screwing off when the spindle is reversed? Has anyone done this successfully?
The insert used in most the video is a valenite VNMG that is no longer made. They make them in the same shape but they changed the back rake angle. The old inert design was well suited for a smaller lathe. I get them on ebay but they are getting harder to find. Also, I had to make the holder. You can't buy them in 1/2".
If a bit apprehensive about threading coarse pitch threads up to a surface or internal shoulder, then thread in reverse(either use a left handed threading tool(best option), or mount right handed tool upsides down(requires toolpost/carrier space), but still on work c/l - use the dials, and thread dial indicator ONLY. If its a blind hole then undercut the bottom of the hole's bore to allow clearance for the tool(width and cut depth) which can be as little as a concentric thread form. It's easier on larger machines with mechanical clutches, VFDs, etc, but easily do-able on small machines too. Also don't bother with compound angles re: thread form angles(for reasons observed), but mount the compound slide parallel to the bed, as this allows the operator to "walk" the threading tool(a form cutter) into the work on large threads(Bigger flanks, roots, tips, complex forms, etc). Keep on having fun! :)
Thanks Craig, I need to try the thread tool upside down but reverse is out of the question (thread on chuck). Also straight in (compound set at 90) almost doubles the load on the tool. I've tried it but the tool chattered bad. Also technically the carriage drive is not loaded going straight in and the tool could float within the backlash of the lead screw/half nut. In other words, instead of the lead screw driving the carriage the threads from the previous pass will drive the tool.
@@WinkysWorkshop Whatever works for your circumstances/machinery :) It turned out fine in the end and that's the important thing. PS try cutting a seat on the newly made backplate for a large rubber o ring seal so that it takes up the clearance between chuck body and backplate(1/64th I recall?) - That'll keep the irksome swarf/chips out of the gear set.
Yes, I lubricated the chuck a couple day ago and used the RTV. I put it on the chuck side and smeared grease on the other. Maybe it will stay put next time I take it apart.
Didn't you just throw off the radial run out of that chuck? I didn't watch the whole video but the back you cut is relative to the jaws of the chuck turning it, if they are off so is what you just cut.
I assume you mean where I chucked the chuck in the other chuck and cut the inside. The surface I shortened only held a plastic debris shield and had no effect on jaw or chuck position. Runout at the jaws was .0005" which is excellent!
Bar? You mean tool? I heard of this method. I don't see any particular advantage but maybe I need to try it. I guess I'm use to seeing the top of the tool.
Hello Mark, Nice video... I am very interested in the process of making lots of small individual changes to machines to improve there performance. when you add all the small changes together it make big improvement. Take care Paul,,
I have this same exact ban saw ! I bought it from harbor freight a few years ago on sale . I think I paid $239.00 ... I have used the living daylights out of it and only broke one blade , But that was totally my fault. I know a few others who have the same ban saw and they all say its a great saw !
I was actually thinking about silicone and letting the unused screw holes hold it in the chuck. Maybe grease the other surface so it doesn't glue the chuck together.
Again, PLEASE stop using your hand to stop a spinning chuck. It nearly got you when you fitted the chuck to the back plate while it was still spinning (20:19). Would really hate to hear you lost a finger, hand or your life due to this bad habit.
Old habits are hard to break, I was in the shop for 46 years, pulled the same stunts, and for some reason, still have all my fingers! Just a few scars, and a shortened tendon on left index finger! Now when I pick my nose, I cant bend my finger to get in all the nooks and crannies. (;
@@WinkysWorkshop NOT "kind of silly" just plain dangerous. I really enjoy your videos and would hate to see you get hurt because of your bad habit of stopping rotating lathe chucks, drill chucks, etc. with your hands. Please BREAK THIS HABIT.
This is a top tip for user of small import lathes .
Overhang is one of those problems with small lathes that is too often overlooked. People get chatter or poor finsh and start chasing bearings , tool profiles and all sorts of rainbows,
very rarely is overhang considered. This is a great mod for anyone looking at the budget for the job
The Pratt Burnerd UK company made low profile chucks for this very reason but they are ££ $$ gold dust if you can find one.
I saw the Pratt chuck a while back and forgot where I saw it. It seems like they wanted over $600 for it anyway and I was not willing to pay that. Thanks for the comment and I totally agree, this is the most overlooked problem with smaller lathes.
@@WinkysWorkshop 30 or 40 years old they still fetch £100 + in reasonable condition.
@@leerogers6423 - Yeah I'll bet they do
Dang, nice job! The fit on that shoulder was *chef's kiss* 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks David!
I am impressed with the equipment. I can tell you guys enjoy your work. Derrick I don’t see a JD tractor though. I would enjoy playing with all your tool and machines. I can tell you guys are very professional. Your company s going to go far. Thanks for sending me the video. Really enjoyed it.
I think you have me confused with somebody else.
I loved he didn't edit dropping the tool, that was golden for me personally.
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent job, Wink. Squeaking every dimension to gain as much advantage as you can. I like your thinking, and the execution was excellent. Mart in the UK.
Thanks Mart!
Excellent job Winky
Thanks.
Well, you've made me rethink the design of the backing plate for my new 3 jaw chuck, that I've only made the 1st truing cuts on... New Morse Taper Shaft for the new drill chuck arrived yesterday, so great timing!
Cool... hopefully there is a way to minimize the overhang
It's been over a year since I commented on this project and I have some observations. The vast majority of metal lathe videos on UA-cam are Chuck obsessed. Three Jaw, four jaw and collett chucks of all kinds. What I don't see enough of is Face - Plate use. Even in this video when you stated that you were at the limits of your 3 jaw chuck while you were holding the 2nd chuck to be machined. .. There was no thought of using a face plate. They have enormous advantages including minimal overhang. They excel at holding odd shaped parts too. In the "safely holding stock" department they are superior. Wakodahatchee Chris
I made a face plate about a year ago. So far I have used it to turn between centers one time. No doubt I will use it again but most often the 3 jaw or collet chuck is quicker. I do agree with you 100%. Good to hear from you!
Always nice to be able to make - modify a tool to do what you need.
Very true! Thanks for watching
Winky, reducing overhang sure beats tearing out bearings! "First things first" philosophy still makes sense even nowadays! Thanks!
Happy New Year.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Heck yeah... especially when the bearings are likely to be just fine.
Great job Winky. I am surprised to see it so accurate.
Thank you! Yeah, agree, that was a bit of a shock
Nice work, like how you pay attention to the small details!
Thank you very much!
I very much enjoyed watching this, and sure learned a lot. It’s great if reasoning and thoughts are included in such videos and not just the mechanical steps shown.
Thanks!
Definitely worth the effort and time. Anything to improve the ridgity on benchtop machines goes a long way, as you know. I would of never thought of this one. It came out real nice Winky.
I agree... well worth the effort. Thanks!
great video Mark,thank you for sharing with us,....good job buddy. see you on the next one.
Thanks 👍
Your something else wink, thinking outside the box again, that's a great setup, great job....
Thanks 👍
You inspired me to do a little adjusting of my tiny lathe and it's improved its performance... thanks
Great to hear!
Happy Belated New Year Mark. Ya know, a long time ago some bright spark wanted to improve the wheel, so he invented gears. I think you follow that mindset with how you redesign and improve your own things. Have a great 2021. Stay safe and well.
Same to you! And thank!
hello Wink,nice video,thank you for sharing i just ordered a new 5"" 4 jaw self centering chuck,i have a 4jaw but its not self aligning ,the new one is,i 'll make a backing plate just like yours thanks for sharing my friend....stay healthy.
Your welcome... I'd say some chucks are made different. Self centering in a 4 jaw might be nice!
Nicely done Mark! speaks well to what you have to do that on a 3 jaw. I fully expected to see you dialing in a 4 jaw.
Thanks 👍
I don't angle the compound for thread cutting at all, at least for 60 degree threads. Instead I have the compound set parallel to the spindle and advance it 50% of the cross-slide infeed.
If you work the trigonometry, this is equivalent to angling the compound to a little under 30 degrees. For other thread angles, you don't end up with such an easy ratio, but you could draw up a table of feed increments.
I sometimes do this anyway on coarse threads. Nearly everybody reduces the depth of cut as the thread depth increases, but nobody (apart from CNC lathes/CAM software) seems to take much more aggressive initial cuts. After you've checked for the correct pitch with a scratch cut, the fist pass can be the deepest. CAM software often has an 'equal volume' strategy where the same amount of metal is removed on each pass. You can eliminate a lot of the early passes!
Very cool idea!!! Although I might get lost keeping track of the cross slide position. Yes... totally agree, I could probably take .030 on the first mass... possibly more.
Your modifications are always interesting. Enjoyed.
Thank you very much! I hope you have a great christmas and new year!
Nice job that Winky , a beautiful bit of threading!
Thanks!
Nice work!
A surefire way to eliminate chatter is to run your parting tool upsidedown and your lathe in reverse. The torque created when your tooling is cutting the workpiece is effectivly making the workpiece want to climb up and over the tool via the slop in the bearings. running the tool upsidedown and the machine in reverse forces the slop to be automatically taken up and viola, no chatter. Just make sure everything is locked down so your not lifting the slide or saddle.
As long as you don't have a screw on chuck this works. On some lathes you can run forward and upside down on the back side. On my lathe there isn't room on the back side and it has a screw on chuck. I never have much problem with cut off as long as I use the direct mount. The quick change post is not solid enough... Or let just say it revels the weakness of the compound . The only reason I used the cutoff tool was because I knew it would make chatter show up if the overhang was a problem. It did fairly well. Small spindles as well as the screw mount are not ideal but their strength goes up exponentially as spindle size goes up.
Fantastic !!! No chatter because it has less overhang!!
Thanks, and yes that is the objective.
An oldtimers trick to determine how close a mating surface was , was to place a single cigarette paper between the 2 faces and carefully screw them together until pressure was felt then back off & check the paper , if the paper was crushed it would be darker where it was crushed . Also , cigarette paper is only about 0.001 thick . It's a good indicator of fit . I've used it to check the fit of soft jaws often . Hope this helps . Happy New Year !!! B. Fox
I've used bluing in the past but the paper might work better. I think the chuck is seating perfectly but I'll check it anyway.
At 27:05, . Nord-Lock washers need 2 washers stacked to work as advertised, 1 washer is just a wavy load spreader. ALSO, I would like to have seen some of you hand work on the carriage, while threading. Nice video! . Thanks for making your videos!
You are right, these washers were not Nord-lock, I called then by the wrong name. They are called Schnorr washers www.fastenal.com/products/details/0130153 . Thanks!
Love your videos, Mark! On light duty lathes like yours (and mine) the weakest link in the stiffness chain is usually the compound and its connection to the cross-slide. On some lathes you can place a machinist jack under the cutoff tool to shunt the cutting force directly to cross-slide. Some people replace their compounds with a solid block.
Absent one of these remedies, keep the cutting edge of the tool as close to the center of the cross-slide foot as practical (both X & Y directions). Happy New Year!
Thanks. In general I agree that the compound is a weakness however, overhang is also a huge problem. I have videos on 2 types of cut off tools that address the compound weakness. The first video uses a tool holder with a GTN3 insert. It has a leg that sits on a 1/2" plate that straddles the bed. It worked well but the tool that holds the insert was a bit weak. If the insert got the slightest bit dull it would wipe out the tool. The second cut off tool is the one seen in this video. It works perfect every time but when you install a chuck with overhang is chatters bad. I made a steel backing plate and it helped but did not fix the check. This chuck works pretty good although not as well as the original Logan chuck. Small spindle with a screw mount are really not very solid. On a 1.5" spindle the threads do not hold adequality.
@@WinkysWorkshop you might want to check your spindle bearing preload. I have a Grizzly G0602, which has a similar threaded spindle about 1 1/2" diameter, and a Sanou chuck similar to your new one. Since rectifying a couple of stiffness problems with the cross-slide & compound, the only chatter I ever get is a high-pitched singing on 2" diameter or larger stuff. (I do use a machinist jack for support on hard steels larger than about 1" diameter).
@@5tr41ghtGuy - I've had a Logan 200 and an 820 and as near as I can tell the bearings are (were) in great shape. The original Logan chuck performs perfect on all stock. I bought a 6 inch Shares chuck that was totally impossible. Part of the problem on the shares was bad cast on the backing plate. I replaced it with steel and improved it but it still chatter. Of course this chuck overhangs 6.5 inches. That is a lot! I have a Sanou on my south bend which is very close to the chuck I just installed. It's a good chuck. So far the new chuck is doing well but overhand should always be minimized if possible. Threaded spindles in general are not the best. It is a weakness. Check out this video... it starts in the right place. This was the cast iron plate from Shares. ua-cam.com/video/ysYusXnhCQY/v-deo.html
@@WinkysWorkshop there is of course no arguing with success ;-)
It appears from drawings I've found that the Logan 800 headstock does not use opposing angular contact bearings, so any preload must exist in the bearings themselves.
I also noticed that the G0602 has a 1.75" spindle, and the bending stiffness of a hollow round tube is proportional to radius^4 (to the fourth power!). As such, the extra material makes the 1.75" spindle almost twice a stiff as 1.50" in bending.
Kudos on the video showing how you smoked out the deflection!
@@5tr41ghtGuy - Yeah... Logan calls it preloaded but SKF says it's low clearance. In fact, SKF said it was low clearance not zero and not negative. He said after it runs a minute of two it is zero. Interesting conversation with the factory tech support. I wish I had it recorded. Lots of controversy on the Logan bearings. Logan charges a lot of money for what they say is special ordered and made to their specs and SKF say it is not. SKF says they make bearing in a range of clearances and it's just a mater or ordering what you want.
Gday, Happy new year Mark, I wish I could think of ideas like you do, if you squeezed an O ring in the gap would it stop the chips form getting into the chuck?, it’s a shame they don’t make chucks like the original, I think it would help the smaller import type lathes with rigidity, i put a new 5” chuck on my small lathe and it knows it on there, the spindles have a lot of flex sadly, awesome job mate, Cheers Matty
Thanks! And I agree 100% . Overhang is a major issue on small lathes!
Almost choked on my coffee when you checked run out! Incredible job!
What about that??? I would have been okay with .004". And the chuck was only $67 bucks (link in the description)
@@WinkysWorkshop I've never measured chuck run out - never even considered it - so it's going to be interesting for me to see how my machines are for accuracy.
As for chatter, I may have an e-mail of interest on that subject later in the week !
@@millomweb - Most 3 jaws are out .020 to .040 and to make maters worse, it changes with diameter. Looking forward to the email. I'm okay with the way this chuck performs in regards to chatter but I doubt it will match the original Logan.
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm gobsmacked at the error on 3-jaw. I knew to expect error but thought it'd be 10 thou or under.
The diameter issue is down to scroll wear. Personally, I think they should be well-greased initially.
I have noted that the scrolls themselves aren't accurately supported within the chuck body - so that'll be another source of error. I'm not really sure why they don't put the scroll on a longer cylinder in the chuck instead of the current 'disc' so it's properly supported for say 2" down the body of the chuck.
I don't think lathe designers have done a very good job - and everyone's pretty much copied a poor design !
@@millomweb - Over .010 is quite a bit. I'm afraid to measure mine.
Excellent job. Thanks for sharing and keep up your great work!
Thank you very much!
Very nicely done. Thank you for the video, I got several good ideas out of it.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Great work. You have a quite powerful lathe compared with the small hobby stuff, 7 x 12, 14.. Sometimes I wonder about the concentricity but You pulled it through with grace. Well done.
When you finish the plate mounted in the lathe and get a good fit inside the chuck the only variable is the chuck itself. With that being said, I was shocked at how well the bar was centered in the chuck. Less than .0005" ! Both lathes are only 1/2 HP but I guess the 7 inch lathes are 1/4 HP.
Nice job, that's real craftmans work, very nice. You gave me some idea for my 1964 emco lathe. All thumbs up. And, happy new year, stay safe and healthy.
Thank you sir!
like the Idea, but have you considered adding a locking mechanism to keep the chuck from spinning off should you decide to turn work in the opposite direction. I've seen this done by other machinists, reverse the spindle direction, invert the cutting tool, cut from the far side of the bore, cut from left to right and leave the compound at 29.5 degrees. What do you think? Just be sure that the chuck can not unscrew itself from the spindle.
I have considered this but so far I have not thought of a way to do this.
Hi Mark, going to throw my two cents in here. If you make a draw bar to fit your chuck and draw it up your chuck cannot unscrew. You lose your through hole but something like this it would not matter. You might even be able to use that sixteenth space you have. Anyway I would like to see your take on the idea as sometimes running in reverse sure can help.
Dale in Canada
@@dalemcinnes1834 - interesting idea. It would likely hold well enough for threading but I wouldn't trust to hold for cutoff or heavy turning. The chuck threads have a lot of mechanical advantage over a draw bar.
Great job.
Never a disappointment.
Thanks!
Hello again Mark,
I bought a Kalamazoo 6613 chuck for my Rockwell lathe specifically because it was a thin model and direct thread (no back plate needed).
However I do not have a set of reverse jaws for it. Searching for that model brings up nothing.
Would you tell me the make/model of the slim chuck you show on your Logan at 1:00? Since yours looks very similar to mine maybe the jaws will interchange.
Thank you sir.
I wish I knew who made it. I have no reverse jaws for mine as well. The chuck is an original Logan chuck. The only thing it says on the chuck is Logan. Good luck. My new chuck seems to be working well although I'm sure the shallow chuck is better. I reduced the overhang by about 5/8 - inch. Not a huge amount but worthwhile I think. I've actually thought about modifying it a little more but I'm afraid I might weaken the chuck. The hole in the clamping area is only 1-inch and the Logan is about 1-1/2". I thought about cutting the jaws off and enlarging the hole. That would put me about 1/2" closer to the spindle.
Good job! I'll be trimming my Emco compact 5's chuck and making a new thicker spindle shaft for it along with preloaded angular contact ball bearings at some point. It should be able to cut off steel with carbide insert dry and reasonably high rpm after it's all done.
Hopefully it works out for you. Thanks
I believe the lock washers which you used for the three SHCS are called Hi collar lock washers, at least up here in BC Canada 😎😎
Nice planning and execution as usual. 👍👍👍👍
I got them off of European made printing equipment. I think I used the wrong name but here the same washer I have. www.mcmaster.com/lock-washers/belleville-spring-lock-washers-for-socket-head-screws/
Thanks. The high collar that I have seen are narrow but thick.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for the link. Those are new to me. Always learn something new from your videos. 👍👍👍👍
@@dwightcarlson7136 - I like these washers better than the split washers but they are not common in the US. Also they are expensive.... although if they were more common the price would drop I'm sure. The best part about this style washer is quick assembly and that they are thin. With a split washer the last full turn of more is under load and a wrench is required to tighten.
Great project, enjoyed watching!
Thank you! Cheers!
Old style threaded spindles are always a challenge. Especially when your chucks weight 100 # or more. Since my lathe still has the original equipment faceplate, I used it to make a dummy spindle. On one end, I made it to match the spindle as close as I could. The other end became the sizing gauge for the threaded area. It saved me a lot of grunt, trying to manhandle the part, while in the 4 jaw, to test the fit to the spindle.
Talk about looking to get your feet wet again, and sinking in to your nose ... Nearly 30 years since I'd had any real experience with any metal lathe, and no experience with internal thread, and what was my first project on this one? Yup. A new spindle adapter for the Bison 3 Jaw. My first attempt to do anything with this lathe was to cut back a welded area on a sprocket/hub assembly. I hung it on a hard spot, stalled the lathe and sprung the adapter. That happened while running it on a 1/2 hp (temporary) motor, if you can believe that. It was so weak I had to help it get started. I guess I would have ended up making that part anyway, it had too much overhang and wasn't made to register to the spindle properly ... no idea how the guy before me got away with using it.
I have an extra head stock... at some point i will have an extra spindle.
very interesting ! your chuck differs from mine in this video.... the plastic part you took out on my chuck stablizes the end of the tighten/loosening gears.... with that plastic piece.... but on yours there are holes in the center section for the gear ends to go into.... ( that's far better than plastic I think !) but I love the way you shortened up the over-hang in this video.
well done ! ....
I got a question for you... every once in a while when using the half nut to thread
the lever hangs up or is real stiff to disengage....... do you have any idea what would cause that ? I suspect wair in a part... but what part? the half nut????
my logan 920 is as old as I am to the month ! and we are both hanging in there at 71 !
LOL
Not sure on the half nut but that can be kind of scary. My Logan 200 was like that and I lubricated the heck out of it. It got much better. I loosened the bolts on the top front of the carriage and opened a gap just with a screw driver and squirted way oil in there. I think the way oil stays put better. I think the 920 has a sump like my 820. be careful not to get to much way oil in the sump. A little might actually be good but I filled mine with way oil and followed the gears up to the lead screw and dripped off into my catch pan. Eventually it quite doing it but it completely emptied the sump.
Hi Winky Another thoughtful video. Did you consider bolting the chuck from the front, adding 4 adjusting screws at 90 degrees and turn the chuck into a "zero adjust" Buck style chuck?
No but that's an interesting idea! Thanks
@@WinkysWorkshop I used this idea when I built an auxiliary chuck which grips in my normal 3 jaw. The auxiliary is an ER32 collet chuck. Used for finer work.
Very good work Winky I will be doing the same on my lathe ,thank you for sharing.
You are very welcome
You have convinced me to do the same with my chucks.
As long as you can. It's always good to minimize overhang but sometimes its not possible.
Winky, I know that you have already done the modification, BUT out of interest was the hole through the chuck small enough that you could have screw cut the chuck body ? Then you would have had even a closer overhang and all you needed was a thin sheet metal protector for the scroll. In effect as the chuck was straight out of the box, but a threaded bore.
Interesting idea although the hole in the chuck is very slightly over 1-inch and my spindle is 1.5-inch. The area where they meet is only about 1/4-inch. The one inch works okay but it's silly to make the hole that small. The Logan chuck has a 1.5 hole. I thought about opening it up a little.... if I don't go too deep it might not hurt anything.
I am really enjoying your channel. What are the inserts you used in this clip, thank you
Thanks, the insert is no longer made although there still make a variation. It's a Valenite VNMP 33 2E. I had to make the holder. The original had more back rake and it better sited for small lathes. I buy them on ebay.
Great video
Thanks!
I like your simple smart solutions!
Thank you sir
Nice job!
Thanks!
Nice job Winky, and very impressive test result. Happy new year and cheers to you!
Thanks, you too! What about that run out? Less than .0005 and the chuck cost me $67 bucks!
tks for video , would love to see you explaining the settings for thread cutting on the same lathe, i fixed one up a year ago, really enjoy working with it.
I have a video on threading although not internal. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/vS5UmtxstQE/v-deo.html
@@WinkysWorkshop tks uncle
The wind chimes ringing in the background got me
Glad you like them - Ha
By advancing the internal threading with the compound instead of the cross slide don't you risk a deeper length cut and a loose thread fit.
Or is that so marginal and can be discounted?.
I do like the idea though, it also removes weight from the end of the spindle.
The reason for advancing with the compound is so that the tool only cuts on one edge. If it was cutting on both sides it would chatter. This is standard procedure. If you start out with the right diameter, when the threads get sharp you are close to the right depth. External are easy to measure but internal is impossible. You just have to test fit
Nice wind chimes.
Only the best for my wife :o)
For the threading compound angle you could do it with the compound set at 29.5 just like you would for typical external threading, but instead of feeding IN you feed OUT, resulting in the material removal from the cutting edge nearest the tool post, this is what I do on my 13x40 lathe, as the carriage doesn't have enough feed in Y to get my compound on the far side, and bonus is that it is easier to reach the compound knob than if it is on the back of the machine. Maybe try it next time you need to do an internal single point thread.
With the compound set normal you are cutting on the wrong side of the threads and backlash can be an issue. The threads will drive the tool. It usually work due to the amount of power it takes to move the carriage off the lead screw backlash. The same hold true for LH threads. On external the compound should be angled toward the chuck.
@@WinkysWorkshop that would be true, except backlash works both ways. You’ll still be taking up the backlash, just doing it by pulling the tool post with the leadscrew rather than pushing.
@@gallupcustomknives2293 - I think you misunderstood. I not talking about the compound screw. I'm talking about the carriage lead screw. Every time you advance the compound you only only cutting with one side of the tool point. Normally the carriage is being pushed against the cut but if you are cutting on the other side the tool will try to drive the compound. It works but it's not ideal. There is usually enough friction between the carriage and ways to keep it from being driven but the threads.
@@WinkysWorkshop ah yes I see what you mean. Could tighten the gibs so that the leadscrew is pushing carriage but would not be perfect. You are correct. By that thinking could also put some kind of brake or leather strap on the hand wheel so that it makes the carriage drag I guess, but would still be better when it comes down to brass tacks just pushing the chip. But I can’t do that on mine haha, cross slide won’t go far enough to put the full compound on ‘backwards’
@@gallupcustomknives2293 - Most often it works either way but you might start seeing a problem on coarse threads
Excellent job.
Thank you very much!
Nice work Winky, great idea. Happy New Year
Thank you! You too!
That's a great upgrade, I might have to look into doing something similar for my lathe, the overhang I have is a little crazy and it makes parting very difficult.
Cutoff will reveal every7 weakness on a lathe! Thanks for watching
Wouldn't it be nice if the lathe manufacturers in China looked at this video and thought "Why don't we make thin chucks like the logan chuck for our lathes " - think of the amount of cast iron they could save and make their machines a little bit more usable at the same time !
Have you ever shown the internals of that logan chuck in your videos ? I would love to see how they achieved such a thin chuck !
That would be fantastic and I think very worthwhile.
Hey Mr Winky! You are quite brave to take on this one! Lol. Wondering how you sharpen your drill bits? Maybe do a video on that? :)
Well... the chuck is only $67 bucks so I was willing to take a chance. I occasionally sharpen bits larger than 3/8 but under that I usually replace them. But yeah... I may do that in the future!
Winky, are you up for an experiment? Some time ago I had a lathe identical to the one you are using. Even oiling up the threads on the spindle did not allow me to remove the chuck without a good deal of consternation. If you will cut out a donut from thin plastic (I believe I used the lid of a Kroger carton of ice cream) and place it on the protruding spindle; threading the chuck against it, you may find it damps out some of the chatter. In addition, when you need to remove the chuck, there will be far less chance of damaging teeth on the back gear.
If you want to remove a screwed on chuck DON'T EVER USE THE BACK GEARS TO HOLD THE CHUCK FROM TURNING.........I place a 25mm diam aluminium bar on the bed and bump the chuck around against one jaw by hand on it.......no damage can happen, been doing it for the last 40 years on my old 1930 Colchester Bantam lathe.
I remove the chuck engaged in back gear all the time. I'm well aware of the possible dangers to the back gears, In fact I have repaired several on the back great on this lathe. I'm quite certain the previous owner used a sledge hammer several tines! The thing is, my chucks never get stuck and a mild tap on the chuck key with the palm of my hand loosens the chuck. The palm of my hand will not break a gear tooth.
I've never had a chuck get stuck... I wonder why they do that. I'm thinking the gasket would make things much worse. The back register is supposed to support the chuck... but who know, you maybe right
Thanks for being thier
Sure thing!
I'm surprised that small of overhang change would be noticeable. That is one exceptional 3 jaw to have just .0005 total run out!
Yeah... that runout kind of freaked me out seeing as how it was only $89 bucks. It's hard to say how much my modification helped with chatter .... I think I reduced the amount by 5/8" but certainly overhang is a major concern on smaller lathes. The difference between the overhang of my original Logan chuck and the new is significant. This chuck is abut 1/3 deeper.
Very Nice!!
I need to find some chuck of metal to make myself one as well.
Does anyone know why backingplates are normally made out of cast iron?
Is it to reduce vibrations?
Good question! The primary reason is cost but cast also has some vibration absorption ability as well. With that being said, I have improved several chucks by installing steel back plates. Small threaded spindles are weakness. You get movement at the threads when you use cast. On larger spindles this is not an issue.
Really like learning fom the things you do. Do you do work for higher as well or is improving your shop and tools what you do full time?
Thanks Mike. I worked for a printing company designing machine improvements until I retired two years ago. I used to do a lot of work in my home shop for the company but after I retired that slowed down. Now I mostly do stuff for myself and make the youtube videos.
@@WinkysWorkshop wish I had the time, and the knowledge. Im good with my hands and always learning. Thats why I like watcing guys like you and the tradesman channel. Cool builds and always good explanations. Happy new year!
20:20 Don't take any more off the back plate from there. Just simply let it cool :)
I agree. I took more off the depth not the circumference. Still, as you obviously predicted, the chuck is now a slip fit.
Hey I hope you have a great 2021.
Always enjoy your videos and I just wondered if you've ever done anything on your band saw stand.
Thanks, You mean the wood legs? I did that so that the band saw would roll under the outfeed table for my table saw. No video.
Good job. I wonder if there's a simple way to lock screw type chucks to prevent them from screwing off when the spindle is reversed? Has anyone done this successfully?
I've seen this done on other lathes but the Logan has not exposed area on the spindle to lock to.
What are the diamond shaped inserts you are using?
The insert used in most the video is a valenite VNMG that is no longer made. They make them in the same shape but they changed the back rake angle. The old inert design was well suited for a smaller lathe. I get them on ebay but they are getting harder to find. Also, I had to make the holder. You can't buy them in 1/2".
Thank for sharing
Thank for watching!
If a bit apprehensive about threading coarse pitch threads up to a surface or internal shoulder, then thread in reverse(either use a left handed threading tool(best option), or mount right handed tool upsides down(requires toolpost/carrier space), but still on work c/l - use the dials, and thread dial indicator ONLY. If its a blind hole then undercut the bottom of the hole's bore to allow clearance for the tool(width and cut depth) which can be as little as a concentric thread form. It's easier on larger machines with mechanical clutches, VFDs, etc, but easily do-able on small machines too.
Also don't bother with compound angles re: thread form angles(for reasons observed), but mount the compound slide parallel to the bed, as this allows the operator to "walk" the threading tool(a form cutter) into the work on large threads(Bigger flanks, roots, tips, complex forms, etc). Keep on having fun! :)
Thanks Craig, I need to try the thread tool upside down but reverse is out of the question (thread on chuck). Also straight in (compound set at 90) almost doubles the load on the tool. I've tried it but the tool chattered bad. Also technically the carriage drive is not loaded going straight in and the tool could float within the backlash of the lead screw/half nut. In other words, instead of the lead screw driving the carriage the threads from the previous pass will drive the tool.
@@WinkysWorkshop Whatever works for your circumstances/machinery :) It turned out fine in the end and that's the important thing.
PS try cutting a seat on the newly made backplate for a large rubber o ring seal so that it takes up the clearance between chuck body and backplate(1/64th I recall?) - That'll keep the irksome swarf/chips out of the gear set.
great job , That mod is well worth it .. ENJOYED !!
Thanks, Yes I think it helps. So far I like the chuck. It was only $67 bucks so I wasn't afraid to modify it. (link in the discription)
RTV sealant would be ideal to fill that 1/64 clearance.
Yes, I lubricated the chuck a couple day ago and used the RTV. I put it on the chuck side and smeared grease on the other. Maybe it will stay put next time I take it apart.
Didn't you just throw off the radial run out of that chuck? I didn't watch the whole video but the back you cut is relative to the jaws of the chuck turning it, if they are off so is what you just cut.
I assume you mean where I chucked the chuck in the other chuck and cut the inside. The surface I shortened only held a plastic debris shield and had no effect on jaw or chuck position. Runout at the jaws was .0005" which is excellent!
why woud you not cut your threads on the opposing side? then you compaound wound not need to be swung all the way around. turn the bar over?
Bar? You mean tool? I heard of this method. I don't see any particular advantage but maybe I need to try it. I guess I'm use to seeing the top of the tool.
@@WinkysWorkshop yes just turn it upside down from what it is, then cut on the opsote side of the hole. that way your compound can stay normal.
Hello Mark,
Nice video... I am very interested in the process of making lots of small individual changes to machines to improve there performance. when you add all the small changes together it make big improvement.
Take care
Paul,,
I agree... minimizing overhang is a worthwhile effort on any lathe but especially one with a small threaded spindle.
I have this same exact ban saw ! I bought it from harbor freight a few years ago on sale . I think I paid $239.00 ... I have used the living daylights out of it and only broke one blade , But that was totally my fault. I know a few others who have the same ban saw and they all say its a great saw !
I broke 3 blades but that was before I figured out how to adjust the blade guides.
@@WinkysWorkshop Maybe give us a Band Saw Video??
@@johnrussell6620 - Cool... Like how to set up guides etc?
@@Morkmtw Anything - Everything to make a HF Band Saw worthwhile...
nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
I was thinking that brazing would be a good way to fill that 'saw cut' round of steel.
I agree, I think it would have penetrate better. My 120v MIG did not. With that being said, it probably doesn't matter.
Inspirational Mr Winky, some blue sky thinking there 👴🏻
Ha... Thanks!
I like it
Thanks
Like this a lot, must look at my lathes, I'm same as you don't like excess over hang & make a lathe as rigid as possible, 🇬🇧✅.
I wish they made more shallow chucks now days!
put you extension inside the chuck .
Yep... thats the way to do it
Use some gasket maker sealer
I was actually thinking about silicone and letting the unused screw holes hold it in the chuck. Maybe grease the other surface so it doesn't glue the chuck together.
Again, PLEASE stop using your hand to stop a spinning chuck. It nearly got you when you fitted the chuck to the back plate while it was still spinning (20:19). Would really hate to hear you lost a finger, hand or your life due to this bad habit.
Yeah. that was kind of silly of me
Old habits are hard to break, I was in the shop for 46 years, pulled the same stunts, and for some reason, still have all my fingers! Just a few scars, and a shortened tendon on left index finger! Now when I pick my nose, I cant bend my finger to get in all the nooks and crannies. (;
@@WinkysWorkshop NOT "kind of silly" just plain dangerous. I really enjoy your videos and would hate to see you get hurt because of your bad habit of stopping rotating lathe chucks, drill chucks, etc. with your hands. Please BREAK THIS HABIT.
My your channel
.
!!!.
Thanks