How to Change Mountain Bike Forks | Silent Shop
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Eddie shares how he changes out a fork on a mountain bike. He replaces his Rockshox Yari with a Manitou Magnum Pro! He also demonstrates how to check static sag.
Gear ties used to hold up fork and caliper are Nite Ize Gear Ties: amzn.to/3jHlOjY
00:04 Secure fork to frame
00:08 Remove front wheel
00:12 Remove brake line from fork
00:14 Remove brake caliper
00:30 Remove bars and spacers
00:48 Remove fork and retain lower bearing
00:55 Remove top dust seal and retain top bearing
00:59 Clean bearing seats
01:03 Clean bearings
01:19 Install new crown race
01:30 Grease bearing seats and install bearings
01:51 Install new forks and secure to frame
01:57 Install spacers
02:01 Install bars
02:05 Mark where to cut head tube
02:16 Cut head tube (a little lower than mark - about .25 in lower)
02:29 File down burs and sharp edges
02:26 Install new star nut
02:48 Re-install forks, spacers, bar, and top cap - hand-tighten
03:06 Install wheel
03:14 Re-install brake caliper
03:54 Torque top-cap to spec and center bars
04:03 Evenly torque stem
04:15 Torque brake caliper and clean up zip ties
04:20 Check recommended pressure settings for rider weight
04:22 Inflate to recommended pressure
04:35 Prop rear wheel for balance and check static sag (static sag should be 20% of overall travel)
04:51 Add or remove pressure as necessary
05:00 Confirm sag is correct
05:17 RIDE!
This video was not sponsored by any of the brands mentioned in the video, all opinions are our own.
This video should be considered for entertainment purposes only, any action you take based on the content of this video is strictly "at your own risk".
#simplymountainbiking #SMB #mountainbiking
About Silent Shop: No talk - just maintenance. This video is for you if; 1.You’d like to learn a new skill in a short time, 2. You already know how, but would like to watch how someone else does it (and maybe learn something new or teach us something new), or 3. You just like the zen of bicycle maintenance.
1:05 how call this things i need buy them
No unnecessary talking. Just how to do it. Best video ever
Thank you! -Eddie
Best how-to video I've ever seen, thank you!
Wow, thanks! -Eddie
I love the way you don't talk ngl at first I didn't like it but the way I can see what your doing and play it out in my head really helps me visualize doing it myself as I know most of what to do just needed a refresher thank you for the quality vid sir
I appreciate that! -Eddie
The greatest and smartest teachers I ever had growing up were all stone silent in the classroom! Incredible way to learn
Cool! -Eddie
Used this guide to switch out my X-Fusion air forks for a much better set of Marzocchi Z2 Bomber's, and it went perfectly. The only thing I think you could do better, is to show where exactly you should cut, in relation to your steerer height, and how deep a star nut should go, but it's not meant to be a full guide, so that's cool. Really appreciated this video though. Thanks so much
Thank you for your suggestions! -Eddie
I was about to do it myself with a Hacksaw then realised that you need more precision tools especially to fine tune ...will just take to my local co-op bike workshop!!
Glad I could be of help! -Eddie
Fr man pounding the one nut in the top of the head tupe is the one thing that scares me cause I don’t have the right tool😂
Good to know the Magnum Pro easily fits a 29 x 3.0" DHF, which is the same tire I run out front. I plan to mount a Yari on my fat/plus rig with upgraded internals, essentially transforming it into a Pike. I think the Yari should have enough clearance for tire widths up to 3.25".
Yes - the Yari cleared 3.25 - Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking Awesome, thanks! I have a Bulldozer in reserve that I'll try running with the Yari.
Great video! Full of tips even it is silent. *thumbsup!
Thanks! -Eddie
its not 5 minutes in reality, we can say 1 hour! But it's a beautiful work!❤
🤣 -Eddie
There is a certain beauty to silence.
Agreed. -Eddie
Question: You marked your steer tube at the top of the top spacer, then when you put it back together somehow it was slightly below the top of that spacer. What did I miss?
Ah - great catch! I didn't capture that part! I made my cut on the bottom of that line to ensure the neck did not extend beyond the spacer. Great eye! -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking Cool, Thanks - I ask because I'm getting ready to put on a new fork and I'm just finalizing the proper procedure (never cut one down before) I've found that we're supposed to leave 3mm or so gap up top to give room for the star nut to draw things tight.
@@SimplyMountainBiking Thanks!. Glad someone asked that. I was wondering the same. 😃 I'm putting on new Manitou forks and just making sure I've got everything 100% figured out before I start.
Such a perfect video , learnt so much.
Glad you enjoyed it! -Eddie
Best video ever
Thanks! -Eddie
Thank you, what type of grease did you use when installing the new fork??
It was Park Tool grease. -Eddie
What a wonderful channel.
Thank you! -Eddie
I swapped out my suspension and now around that area is squeakikg and coming loose every so often after i tighten it any tips ?
check your torque settings perhaps? -Eddie
Very good video. thank you.
Thank you too! -Eddie
I am big fan love your vids keeps it up
I also made a vid like that here
Thanks - will do! -Eddie
Great video. Couple of questions if you're able to assist:
1) I'm installing a straight steerer fork into a tapered headtube (budget upgrade). The new fork is straight 1-1/8'', and my current (stock) fork is tapered 1-1/5''. What kind of adapter do I have to use for that type of setup?
2) Did you reuse the old star nut, or did you buy a new one for your new fork?
1 - I have never done this before. 2 - I used a new star nut. -Eddie
its a crown race reducer. Same one they use in trek roscoe 6 bikes. Star nuts come with a new fork. If not, they are easy to find and not expensive. Dont use the old one, too much work to remove it and you basically need a long shaft or rod to hammer it all the way down potentially breaking it
Do you recommend any particular tool for the star nut? Also, what type of grees is good?
I use a Park Tool Star Nut Driver. Grease could be a contentious topic. :D -Eddie
At 1:23 what is that piece called that you dropped onto the steerer tube?
Hi - it's called the lower bearing race. -Eddie
How trustable are quick releases? I have an old bike, with a quick release. Is there a chance it would release the wheel while going?
I've not had that issue. I check mine frequently and tighten as needed, though. -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking Hmmm. Maybe I should too. Thanks!
Some great tips, the zip tie around the brake calliper was one of those, why didn't I think of that moments. Have you got a link for those bendy pipes you used? Thanks for sharing
I use Nite Ize Gear Ties - I'll put a link in the description! -Eddie
thanks for this!
You bet! -Eddie
Thank you!!
You're welcome! -Eddie
Awesome content! Doing this now. I bought a lightly used fork and the steerer tube was precut, but in my case, 9mm too long. Glad it was too long and not too short, but it doesnt seem like a huge deal. Should i just try to get a 9mm spacer or torque it all down and run it?
I guess it depends on how high you want your bars to be? -Eddie
what's the purpose of the distance ring above the stem and under top cap? future compatibility with other frames?
If you ever crash in a way that allows your body to make contact with that part, the protruding steerer augments the learning effect... (I am not making this up!).
I will adjust my stem up or down depending on the type of riding I am going to do. On a bikepacking trip, I want to sit more upright and relaxed. On a race, I want to be slightly more bent over and aggressive. -Eddie
It does present a 'knob' to bump into in a wreck - but I'm already riding a bike with a lot of other crap that can hurt me in a wreck too. Ever land on a frickin' pedal? :P -Eddie
I bought the 80 dollar bucklos forks and installing them on a fragment 500 ozone but the forks shake a little inside the stem part, any way to fix that
Sorry - I'm unsure. -Eddie
This is a great, no frills video, thank you! Quick question, hoping you can see this: I’m looking to replace my fork with one that has a much shorter steerer tube. It would come to the point where I’d have to get rid of all spacers. Would it be ok if I don’t use any spacers below the stem? As in no spacers at all? I’ve been reading online where many people say it’s either ok to not have any spacers at all or to have at least one spacer below the stem. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
I don't think it's necessary to have any spacers below the stem. Go for it! -Eddie
Hi Eddie. May I know the name of the piece @2:34. Is it from the new or old fork and do you need a special tool to insert it back in? Thanks.
Hi! It is a star nut. I used a star nut driver from Park Tool. The star nut is relatively inexpensive. If you don't want to use the Park Tool star nut driver, you can buy an inexpensive carriage bolt. Good luck!
What was that washer you put on the bottom part of the fork tube
It's a beveled bearing race. -Eddie
Nice!
Thanks! -Eddie
Great video.. right to the point with no bs. I just replaced mine and noticed that there is a little bit of slack between the fork and the frame (when you slide the fork into the frame... where the two meet there), it's loose and i can't seem to get it to tighten up so when i brake, it rocks forward very slightly but enough to affect riding, and likely not great for the fork or the frame. Any idea what I might be doing wrong and what i can do to tighten it up?
At the top bearing, bottom bearing, or both? -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking bottom bearing. Thanks for the quick response!
@@Sooch67 It could be a number of reasons. Did you re-use your old bearing, or did you install a new one? You installed the crown race? -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking well, I thought I put everything back as it was, but I clearly missed something. Gonna take it apart again and make sure I got everything correct. Thanks
@@Sooch67 Let us know what you find! -Eddie
Do new forks come with the crown race part? Are all crown race parts the same? The part he installs at 1’22”.
I'm unsure if all forks come with the crown race. Every fork I have bought (maybe 4?) has. -Eddie
Forks don't come with the crown race, but it will come with the headset as it must match up with the lower headset cup (if external).
Great video 👍 but what is the part called that you hammered in to the top of the fork? And the tool used to force it down the tube please. Mine has come loose and needs replacing. Any replies would be much appreciated
Star Nut, Star Nut Driver. :) Good luck! - Eddie
Top man. Thanks 👍
Would of helped to know the names of parts and tools for someone who’s never done it befor
That's a very good point. I'll likely keep these silent if I do more - but I may add overlays with labels. -Eddie
Do you use the same rings from the previous suspension?
Yep - I don't sweat it if the parts don't look excessively worn. - Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking ok thanks
Why did you use assembly paste instead of grease?
I used a Park Tool grease. -Eddie
Can you tell me how many newtons you tighten the fork bolt to?
It's only a slight 4nm... It's just meant to hold the fork in place - it's the stem/stem bolts that really hold the fork. -Eddie
F*ckit! I'll call Eddie up and have him do mine. The dude obviously knows what he is doing!
Thanks! -Eddie
Wondering how much torque would you put on the top cap bolt?
4-5Nm -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking thanks for the tip!
That should not be done up to a specific torque, but it really depends on the bearing... you do not want slack in the bearings, but neither do you want it under a lot of pressure, because that would damage the bearings. So you basically need to "dial it in" to have a headset bearing that rotates freely without being loose. Then you fully tighten the stem to its specified torque. Once that is done, and the bearing therefore set, make sure the cap is tight against the stem.
(With all due respect, the way it is shown in this video - screwing down the cap to a set torque before tightening the stem - is wrong IMHO, as it risks damaging the bearing at worst, or ending up with a headset that does not rotate freely at best.)
What is the orange piece that goes on the stem bolt?
Are you referring to the top cap? Mine's a mount for a Wahoo. -Eddie
Why is the replacement tube longer? you shouldn't have to cut that, the new part should match oem measurements.
The replacement was not OEM and was made to fit many different bikes. -Eddie
5 minutes? I will pay the guys in the bike shop to do the necessary.
Haha! 5 minute video, not work time! :) -Eddie
So.. My problem is. Someone welded the brakes, onto the telescopes of the first wheel. The weld is letting the brakes go, which will fall off, and the telescope doesn't work.. obviously. So I want to replace it, with a normal, more primitive type, that has no telescope or quick release, but a space for the brakes, a proper attachment point, or properly installable attachment point. Hence I'm here.
Sounds like a problem! -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking A massive one. I'm replacing the back brake, should work.
I thought was gunna be easy rip
It wasn't? -Eddie
He put the suspension fork on the wrong side 😅.
What did I do wrong? -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking the connecting bridge should be at the front.
@@rejvexplx449 Oh, no. Manitou forks are backward. Check into it! -Eddie
And nothing about crown race removal and installation😂
No need to remove on the old fork. Installation on new fork is 1:23. - Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking You forgot the laughing with tears emoji
That was NOT 5 minutes. 😂 But thanks.
Haha! Edited to 5 minutes. Likely took an hour? (but I was also recording) -Eddie
Hey I just took my 2021 Orbea Rise to Fox service centre to get the fork and shock serviced but they removed them and gave me the bike back ! 😢is it easy for me to fit the fork and shock back onto the bike or would you recommend taking the whole bike back to them to fit the shock and fork back on?
Its pretty easy just need some allen keys. Knowing what to torque each bolt to is the harder part. If your unsure just bring it with you. It won't take them more than 10 minutes.
@@martinchapman1032 yeah they emailed me and said “ it’s not something we usually do we’re not a bike shop” but I took it back anyway and they put the suspension back on the bike foc so I’m happy with that. Can’t say I notice any difference whatsoever after the full service at £274! But I’m assuming it’s good to get them serviced after a year of riding it 👍🏾
Glad you got the help you needed. -Eddie
Awesome video. New sub 👍🏾
Thanks for the sub! -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking I just had my Fox shock and forks serviced at Fox Uk £279 and they don’t feel any different! Maybe I need to learn to do it myself!