When you pull the fork out of the saw guide make sure you immediately turn the fork upside down as you're pulling it out rather than standing it up straight. If you stand up straight, all the metal filings that are inside the steer tube will fall out the bottom of the steer tube and quite possibly land on top of your stanchion seals
Somebody gives a handy wee hack to avoid a bit of extra hassle and some others see it as "panic". Projection in action. For what it's worth I'm sure many like myself appreciate the tip.
@@russelltaylor1500 I literally just got done filing the steerer tube on my new Rockshox fork, got filings all over the stanchions, and just blew them off, lol. No biggie. Those stanchions get crap all over them when riding, dust, mud, dirt, gravel, sand a couple tiny metal filings ain't gonna hurt them.
My hack method to install a star nut is to use an EMTY co2 cylinder with a piece of masking tape for depth. It's the perfect diameter and the shape of the base perfect for centralizing the nut.
I worked in 2 pro shops back in the 90's, never seen a proper crown removal tool. Learn something new all the time👍 Also I've noticed over the years vise is at the end of bench nxt/over a trash can. Helps with the mess.
At 7:46 you say the steerer should sit below the stem. I've always been told it should be above the stem so that all of the stem clamp can then clamp against the steerer tube giving a more secure fit & also the top of the stem then won't get compressed narrower than the steerer. When the steerer is above the stem as I suggest, an appropriate stem spacer should then be added on top to give you that approx 3mm gap between top cap & fork steerer to allow take up of slack.
Hey Doddy, I used an older video of yours recently before fitting some forks and used a bag to stop swarf getting on the stanchions. #GMBNTech - One tip I have is that you’ll get swarf in the steerer tube when you cut it so I recommend inverting the fork to clean it out once you’ve cut it. Keep up the good work.
I just got a delivery of a new fork yesterday :). Good advice with not pressing the pipe cutter too hard. I did that with my handlebars and the brakes were a pita to get back on.
Scratching the fork or crown race is not, "damage." I've always used a flathead screwdriver, sure it scratches up the fork, but it's not damaged. Nobody ever looks down there anyway. 25,000 miles since 2009 and no issues. I also installed star nuts with a block and hammer, before Sam Pilgrim was UA-cam famous. Made a headset press for $10 at the hardware store with a long bolt and various washers and lugs.
Great video. Very thorough. I like the simple explanations and the fact that it allows how you can do this with the tools you've probably got already or ones you can get hold of relatively easily, as well as the technically correct way of doing things. Kudos.
Great videos as usual !!! Keep going !! Right on time i will replace my fork in few weeks just waiting for the fork. Would be great if you put a list with links for differents tools in the description.
Just in time. I will have to do this, soon. I hoped to discover a new method for driving in the star nut without the workshop tool but yours is as good as mine. I like to place the Fork on a pice of wood with the crown for the job so it does not compress.
i remember changing new fork. removing the crown race from old fork steerer without proper tool was ultimate pain. spent so many hours using cutter blade to fit in the gap.
Make a crown race installation tool from poly pipe and a poly pipe straight connector, which fits 1 1/8 steerer crowns perfectly. Never use a bearing or hit the race directly
I installed a shorter Stem the other day on my gf's MTB and was quite shocked when lowering the forks to see Ballbearings sitting in their ring. I guess her "cheaper" components use an older style of fitting. I wouldnt mind seeing a video on servicing/greasing tbis area of steering. The only other steering I've pulled apart were old Malvern Star brands with Full Length Goose Neck Bolts.
You put a screwdriver in the hole where the threads are? That's bad advice. Better to knock it in with a piece of wood and mallet and wooden dowel or at least something with a larger circumference than a screwdriver, and not stick something into the hole where the threads are.
@@dangerous8333 You put the screwdriver through the hole, not touching the threads. The plastic screwdriver handle sits flush on the star nut, not touching the steer tube sides.
With triple clamps don't forget the top crown.. almost made that mistake. I like to leave an extra spacers worth on top of the stem just because you may want to move resell your fork to a different bike and if you do forget that triple crown can save your arse lol. I also ovalled a fork once with a pipe cutter. I'd cut many forks that way, this time I must of been impatient wasn't by much but the stem didn't slide on smoothly.
To remove crown race, tap in the sharp edge of a stanley knife (utility knife) blade, all the way around to lift it, then it pops off easily with some leverage from, ideally, plastic tyre lever. No risk of travel
fyi, the crown race isn't a bearing surface. The bearings are sealed inside their own cartridge. The cartridge or bearing housing is what seats on the crown race. Still best not to damage it of course but a small scuff wouldn't matter as much as if it was an actual bearing sitting directly on it.
Put your crown race in the oven on 250 c, it will expand slightly so it's really easy to put on. I always give a few taps with a wooden block and a hammer (make sure to alternate sides every tap and it will be on there with little effort). Just watch you don't burn your fingers.
Great video, however I'm slightly confused why @8:56 you had marked and cut the steerer at 214mm instead of the 210mm you had measured off your previous forks steerer tube.
He marked the tube at 214mm after the dry fit (the top of the spacer), then has to subtract 3-4mm for the actual cut line - which results in 210mm where the actual cut is.
That is a completely different fork with silver steerer tube he is marking at 7:31 with the mark at 214mm. it showed him marking 214mm at 9:16 on the original fork with black steerer tube and saying that is the cut line and make sure you don't make a second mark. There was no mark at 210mm for the black steerer tube. He gets the point across but the above comments are valid and should be addressed by author.
I disagree fundamentally with cutting the steerer tube below the stem top. I don’t think it’s wise to apply clamp force over and above the end of the tube, especially where a carbon tube is concerned. Measure above so that a 5-10mm spacer can be used while providing the proper space for the top cap to create bearing preload.
How is that different from measuring to a few mm short of the top of the stem *with all spacers in place*. You seem to be saying cut it to as long as the stem then add a spacer? Same difference?
@@wood42shed A little longer than the stem, with at least a 5mm spacer on that for the bearing preload. With a inner steerer expander sleeve right at the top that will provide to the top of the tube as well.
Grip the stem in a vice real tight, slide a solid bar into the stem .. don't forget to mark the bar for depth and apply ample force back and forth until the tube breaks off at the perforation points 😉😂
If there’s a chance of damaging your fork getting the crown race off just buy a new crown race, they’re probably cheaper than taking it to some shops to get it removed
What forks need is another standard...maybe large taper with triple bearing on euro and imperial casings..oh and an upside down version that changes every six months.
Since crown races are universally needed and appear standard - wonder why forks just don’t come with them pre-installed, and don’t ever need to take them off (eg why even bother taking it off an old fork - as you’d need it on the old one anyways if you’re ever going to use it)
Would've been good to add in what decides how many spacers under/above the headset in a video like this as well, because it directly affects where your cut need to be.
I just did this, and it works well. however, I have one little problem. I moved the crown race from my old fork to my new, but the bearings don't seem to sink on it. Are there different models of crown race rings?
Is a Crown race part of new set of headset? Is it part of a newly purchased headset, or is it a special part purchased separately. Thank you. I dont have old headset able to use.
I have just thrown a trash bag over bottom of forks and some painters tape then once cut blow off with compressed air and/or soft brush I suppose then there is no chance at all to get metal on the seals or shafts and chances are you will need the trash bag immediately in the shop anyway lol
Is there any reason not to cut a slit in a solid crown race [with a Dremel for example] to make it a split version - to aid future removal? - as long as the headset uses cartridge style bearings of course.
Is it possible to change offset/rake of fork...let’s say I wanna expand my wheelbase a bit? Would lowering the offset work? ...and yes I wanna change geometry of my bike 😊 I just wanna know if it’s possible without destroying the fork (the fork will be more expensive than my bike) 😅
Can You give a few examples of headsets with open lower race crown? I've checked Ritchey, FSA, Cane Creek wich are my go to brands and I couldn't find any headsets which would not require eploying mallet/puller. Thank You
Does your fork have to be cut a tad bit below your stem so your top cap doesn’t hit your fork. So that your top cap can be tightened up to tighten your headset up?
super nice video, the special tools neede, aint that expensive compared to the price the bikeshop will set u back for mounting it. And you can alway sel it when u are done. !!
Insert a flared headset cup remover though the stem and insert it into the head tube to hold the handlebars on the bike, or just buy the ridiculous Park Tool dummy fork!
@@R-Dub-Ya maybe he means 215 but is cutting at 210 (for the top cap compression space) but I certainly didn’t see the 210 final scratch mark and besides I’m pretty sure Doddy was using the old fork measurement which would negate what I’ve just said lol
So the how to learning to cutand in #GMBNTech the installe the new forck a the my home of thes so #GMBN #MoutainBiking session's day thanks guy. Doddy. Saluds of chile 🇨🇱🤘 😀 🤘 🚵
I always have trouble getting my forks to sit flush when I put them back on. I usually have this problem when I change the stem. It's like pulling teeth to get it to sit flush. Any tips?
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
great info, thanks for the tips. For someone who has such an eye for detail and is always conscious about how his bikes look, I gotta say those green GE 1's look completely out of place. It seems like the whole GMBN crew is using those green grips now! The oil slick lock on tabs are tight but there is a limited amount of frame colors/ accents that green goes with..... imo. Love the content. Not a hater!
I have a mountain bike that needs a new front 26' fork I thought I would order one and do it myself. After seeing all the tools I need that I don't have I'm gonna have to pay someone that has the tools and knows how to do it.
How is that 2021 Fox 34 fork? I read it is not good. Especially the FIT4. I have read the 34 fork is "harsh" and "suck across the board" unless it is Grip2. Is this true? Anyone?
Pro-tip for those like me who can't afford Park Tools: I use an old stem as my saw guide.
I mean it's not even critical anyway, as long as it's close by eye
You're a genius man, thanks for this
You are genius!!!!!
how in the fuck did I not think of that
or newish stem and a fat washer on the saw side
When you pull the fork out of the saw guide make sure you immediately turn the fork upside down as you're pulling it out rather than standing it up straight. If you stand up straight, all the metal filings that are inside the steer tube will fall out the bottom of the steer tube and quite possibly land on top of your stanchion seals
Clever
Or just don't panic about the filings, and blow in off with an airline 🤷♂️
@@russelltaylor1500 The world has gone into complete panic mode with everything these days..pathetic world we live in.
Somebody gives a handy wee hack to avoid a bit of extra hassle and some others see it as "panic". Projection in action. For what it's worth I'm sure many like myself appreciate the tip.
@@russelltaylor1500 I literally just got done filing the steerer tube on my new Rockshox fork, got filings all over the stanchions, and just blew them off, lol. No biggie. Those stanchions get crap all over them when riding, dust, mud, dirt, gravel, sand a couple tiny metal filings ain't gonna hurt them.
Because of videos like this I've been able to build my own aggressive hardtail from scratch
Very educational
Thanks GMBN tech
My hack method to install a star nut is to use an EMTY co2 cylinder with a piece of masking tape for depth. It's the perfect diameter and the shape of the base perfect for centralizing the nut.
Great vid. To help with the metal filings, pop the packaging plastic bag back on the forks before you cut and file away
I worked in 2 pro shops back in the 90's, never seen a proper crown removal tool. Learn something new all the time👍 Also I've noticed over the years vise is at the end of bench nxt/over a trash can. Helps with the mess.
Just got new forks and I need to put crown in any help ?
@@chicagodrill3705 take to pro shop. Haven't worked on bikes in yrs. I build cars now
Funnily enough yesterday i watched the verision of replacing forks from 2 years ago.
Are you Dr who
@@hollownexus9316 Nope, just a coincidence
Was it different?
@@rupedog Very slightly, pretty much the same.
I needed this december! But I managed to sort it out by going back to some of your previous videos as well as the one by Park Tool.
Yikes!
And I thought I could just order in a fork and slip it right on O_o
Wow, that's definitely cooled down my jets
U said it man
At 7:46 you say the steerer should sit below the stem. I've always been told it should be above the stem so that all of the stem clamp can then clamp against the steerer tube giving a more secure fit & also the top of the stem then won't get compressed narrower than the steerer. When the steerer is above the stem as I suggest, an appropriate stem spacer should then be added on top to give you that approx 3mm gap between top cap & fork steerer to allow take up of slack.
Hey Doddy, I used an older video of yours recently before fitting some forks and used a bag to stop swarf getting on the stanchions. #GMBNTech - One tip I have is that you’ll get swarf in the steerer tube when you cut it so I recommend inverting the fork to clean it out once you’ve cut it. Keep up the good work.
I am going to try old vacuum pipe for installing the race.
I just got a delivery of a new fork yesterday :). Good advice with not pressing the pipe cutter too hard. I did that with my handlebars and the brakes were a pita to get back on.
Scratching the fork or crown race is not, "damage."
I've always used a flathead screwdriver, sure it scratches up the fork, but it's not damaged. Nobody ever looks down there anyway.
25,000 miles since 2009 and no issues. I also installed star nuts with a block and hammer, before Sam Pilgrim was UA-cam famous.
Made a headset press for $10 at the hardware store with a long bolt and various washers and lugs.
Great video. Very thorough. I like the simple explanations and the fact that it allows how you can do this with the tools you've probably got already or ones you can get hold of relatively easily, as well as the technically correct way of doing things. Kudos.
Thank you for the video,you explained all about it and why . Also emphasized the problems that may happen. Without being condercending .
Right on bro brah, got my forks cut right on the money and assembled.
Thanks for the heads up!
After using the pipe cutter remeber to sand it down on a nice fresh curb.
Great videos as usual !!! Keep going !! Right on time i will replace my fork in few weeks just waiting for the fork. Would be great if you put a list with links for differents tools in the description.
Just in time. I will have to do this, soon. I hoped to discover a new method for driving in the star nut without the workshop tool but yours is as good as mine. I like to place the Fork on a pice of wood with the crown for the job so it does not compress.
i remember changing new fork. removing the crown race from old fork steerer without proper tool was ultimate pain. spent so many hours using cutter blade to fit in the gap.
Already know how but just love watching a good bit #GMBNtech cheers doddy
Make a crown race installation tool from poly pipe and a poly pipe straight connector, which fits 1 1/8 steerer crowns perfectly. Never use a bearing or hit the race directly
Here I am watching GMBN tech at 2 in the morning. Videos are great
Big thanks for this quality guide!
I use a length of plastic waste pipe to fit the bottom bearing race. Cheap, but good.
Covered everything, great work.
I installed a shorter Stem the other day on my gf's MTB and was quite shocked when lowering the forks to see Ballbearings sitting in their ring. I guess her "cheaper" components use an older style of fitting. I wouldnt mind seeing a video on servicing/greasing tbis area of steering. The only other steering I've pulled apart were old Malvern Star brands with Full Length Goose Neck Bolts.
Very helpful, thanks for posting.
Ok so you just convinced me to use my bike shop
Thanks for the video
Clear and concise 😎 Thanks so much
Installing a starnut, I fit a screwdriver through the hole and just give it a good set of wacks. Works like a charm.
You put a screwdriver in the hole where the threads are? That's bad advice.
Better to knock it in with a piece of wood and mallet and wooden dowel or at least something with a larger circumference than a screwdriver, and not stick something into the hole where the threads are.
@@dangerous8333 You put the screwdriver through the hole, not touching the threads. The plastic screwdriver handle sits flush on the star nut, not touching the steer tube sides.
Excellent video man. I appreciate the very helpful tips.
With triple clamps don't forget the top crown.. almost made that mistake. I like to leave an extra spacers worth on top of the stem just because you may want to move resell your fork to a different bike and if you do forget that triple crown can save your arse lol.
I also ovalled a fork once with a pipe cutter. I'd cut many forks that way, this time I must of been impatient wasn't by much but the stem didn't slide on smoothly.
To remove crown race, tap in the sharp edge of a stanley knife (utility knife) blade, all the way around to lift it, then it pops off easily with some leverage from, ideally, plastic tyre lever.
No risk of travel
@@rupedog exactly that. Wedge in an old Stanley blade, tap gently all the way round.
fyi, the crown race isn't a bearing surface. The bearings are sealed inside their own cartridge. The cartridge or bearing housing is what seats on the crown race. Still best not to damage it of course but a small scuff wouldn't matter as much as if it was an actual bearing sitting directly on it.
Put your crown race in the oven on 250 c, it will expand slightly so it's really easy to put on. I always give a few taps with a wooden block and a hammer (make sure to alternate sides every tap and it will be on there with little effort). Just watch you don't burn your fingers.
I bought a star nut installer....just to check the nut installed previously was right....£10 well spent😋
Lmao....
A useless tool.
Superb video mate! Incredibly detailed and sorted. Good on ya!
DODDY
Make a Video of Steerer Tube Replacement !!!
Some Steerer Tubes you Can Press Out
Ask your manufacturer.
Great video, however I'm slightly confused why @8:56 you had marked and cut the steerer at 214mm instead of the 210mm you had measured off your previous forks steerer tube.
I guess because he wants to add a 5mm spacer and/or needs Just a bit more space to tighten the topcap.
i was wondering the same thing! That aint 210
He marked the tube at 214mm after the dry fit (the top of the spacer), then has to subtract 3-4mm for the actual cut line - which results in 210mm where the actual cut is.
That is a completely different fork with silver steerer tube he is marking at 7:31 with the mark at 214mm. it showed him marking 214mm at 9:16 on the original fork with black steerer tube and saying that is the cut line and make sure you don't make a second mark. There was no mark at 210mm for the black steerer tube. He gets the point across but the above comments are valid and should be addressed by author.
I disagree fundamentally with cutting the steerer tube below the stem top. I don’t think it’s wise to apply clamp force over and above the end of the tube, especially where a carbon tube is concerned. Measure above so that a 5-10mm spacer can be used while providing the proper space for the top cap to create bearing preload.
How is that different from measuring to a few mm short of the top of the stem *with all spacers in place*. You seem to be saying cut it to as long as the stem then add a spacer? Same difference?
@@wood42shed A little longer than the stem, with at least a 5mm spacer on that for the bearing preload. With a inner steerer expander sleeve right at the top that will provide to the top of the tube as well.
Then why would many quality bikes have it cut below and still not have an issue.
class vid as usual doddy shame it wasnt made for when i installed my new airbike fork
When you put the saw guide on how do you know where your cut line mark is once it’s in the clamp?
What a great video
one can weld on more pipe if a fork stem is too short.
Cleaned my cut up on the steerer lovely using an orbital sander
Confused which technique to use to cut down forks - This one or the Sam Pil angle grinder technique? 🤣
@@RealMTBAddict So bolt cutters to cut it. I got that part. But a welding torch? To what, put it back together?
Grip the stem in a vice real tight, slide a solid bar into the stem .. don't forget to mark the bar for depth and apply ample force back and forth until the tube breaks off at the perforation points 😉😂
If there’s a chance of damaging your fork getting the crown race off just buy a new crown race, they’re probably cheaper than taking it to some shops to get it removed
Good point!
What forks need is another standard...maybe large taper with triple bearing on euro and imperial casings..oh and an upside down version that changes every six months.
Helpful video, quick question. What torque should the caliper screws be screwed down with to the fork?
Can you install a used starnut on a new pair of forks?
With other words, bring it into a shop and let someone do it who knows how😂
Since crown races are universally needed and appear standard - wonder why forks just don’t come with them pre-installed, and don’t ever need to take them off (eg why even bother taking it off an old fork - as you’d need it on the old one anyways if you’re ever going to use it)
Instead of using a flat screwdriver to pry the race off, use a chisel. The tip is much thinner and easier to put between the race and the fork.
Would've been good to add in what decides how many spacers under/above the headset in a video like this as well, because it directly affects where your cut need to be.
If you replace your crown race do it with a split crown race. It’s a simple solution.
If you have a Scott you will need a T25 for your top cap and stem not a 4mm Allen bolt despite appearances.
can i use a plastic tyre lever instead of a flathead screwdriver to remove my crown race?
I just did this, and it works well. however, I have one little problem. I moved the crown race from my old fork to my new, but the bearings don't seem to sink on it. Are there different models of crown race rings?
Good vid
Quality video!
Is a Crown race part of new set of headset? Is it part of a newly purchased headset, or is it a special part purchased separately. Thank you. I dont have old headset able to use.
Great video BTW
I am about to replace fork on electric bike as it came with bent fork.. and it looks about the same
I have just thrown a trash bag over bottom of forks and some painters tape then once cut blow off with compressed air and/or soft brush I suppose then there is no chance at all to get metal on the seals or shafts and chances are you will need the trash bag immediately in the shop anyway lol
the m5 bolt comes in a few different lengths... at a guess the 12 mm???
Is there any reason not to cut a slit in a solid crown race [with a Dremel for example] to make it a split version - to aid future removal? - as long as the headset uses cartridge style bearings of course.
Is it possible to change offset/rake of fork...let’s say I wanna expand my wheelbase a bit? Would lowering the offset work? ...and yes I wanna change geometry of my bike 😊 I just wanna know if it’s possible without destroying the fork (the fork will be more expensive than my bike) 😅
Typically how much is the tensile torque (Nm) for headset expansion when installed in to the aluminum tube fork? Thanks,,
Best to cut steerer tube on mitre saw lol :D
Light Saber
Can You give a few examples of headsets with open lower race crown? I've checked Ritchey, FSA, Cane Creek wich are my go to brands and I couldn't find any headsets which would not require eploying mallet/puller.
Thank You
Does your fork have to be cut a tad bit below your stem so your top cap doesn’t hit your fork. So that your top cap can be tightened up to tighten your headset up?
Does this bike come with reflectors?
Beyond me I'm afraid. What rough cost should it be at a bike shop (UK 2023), Thanks.
I want to change the sunfour xcr forks on a carrera to something better.. any direct replacement suggestions? Not the whole bike lol just the forks.
super nice video, the special tools neede, aint that expensive compared to the price the bikeshop will set u back for mounting it. And you can alway sel it when u are done. !!
Insert a flared headset cup remover though the stem and insert it into the head tube to hold the handlebars on the bike, or just buy the ridiculous Park Tool dummy fork!
9:50 is he rotating the cutter the right way (and does it matter)?
How far in does the star but go? Do you just match your old forks??
*DODDY* what was the name of the 'how to' tricks guy in mbuk late 90s early 2000s rode an orange Santa Cruz chameleon..🤔😮
do it like pilgrim🙈😂
is it suposed to have those crumbs in there ( 8:24 ) Doddy?
Imagine buying a pArK ToOls hacksaw😅🤣🤣
must be windy where hes biking :D
Hey Doddy what kind of watch is that?
210mm or did you mean 215mm?
@@R-Dub-Ya maybe he means 215 but is cutting at 210 (for the top cap compression space) but I certainly didn’t see the 210 final scratch mark and besides I’m pretty sure Doddy was using the old fork measurement which would negate what I’ve just said lol
Wrap your new fork in a bin bag before cutting the tube, hopefully will prevent all metal shavings from getting near the stanchions!
So the how to learning to cutand in #GMBNTech the installe the new forck a the my home of thes so #GMBN #MoutainBiking session's day thanks guy. Doddy. Saluds of chile 🇨🇱🤘 😀 🤘 🚵
Hi GMBN! Is it normal for a new fork to have a little play when pushing down even if the lockout is in the lock position?
I always have trouble getting my forks to sit flush when I put them back on. I usually have this problem when I change the stem. It's like pulling teeth to get it to sit flush. Any tips?
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
can you answer to this comment with a link that i can buy the cheapest good air suspension fork? please
So... how much extra spacers should I have? You said "required amount of stem spacers." IDK what that is. Help.
great info, thanks for the tips. For someone who has such an eye for detail and is always conscious about how his bikes look, I gotta say those green GE 1's look completely out of place. It seems like the whole GMBN crew is using those green grips now! The oil slick lock on tabs are tight but there is a limited amount of frame colors/ accents that green goes with..... imo. Love the content. Not a hater!
I have a mountain bike that needs a new front 26' fork I thought I would order one and do it myself. After seeing all the tools I need that I don't have I'm gonna have to pay someone that has the tools and knows how to do it.
Do people still use an azonic headlock?
How to fit a fork? Fork has two legs, if you can motivate it to run regularly, it will get fit for sure. Good luck getting your forks fit guys! :-)
How is that 2021 Fox 34 fork? I read it is not good. Especially the FIT4. I have read the 34 fork is "harsh" and "suck across the board" unless it is Grip2. Is this true? Anyone?
At 7:01 he shows us that it measures 26 cm & he says that measures 21 cm. eh?