Thanks so much. Really appreciate it. And check out the other sink install videos I have. Different situations have different approaches. Pick the best one that works for you.
Awesome work Jay.. Beyond work, you have also showed a lot photographic techniques. The angle at the granite carrying video has been shot was fantastic. Keep posting more videos. Just subscribed..
Hi jay again great work. Check out big head glue and brackets more of a slim line thing and less chance of pushing stone up and breaking. Plus it's quicker and super strong. Keep up the good work.
With smaller radius corners? For sure you can. Just remove the sink and all the plumbing. You can throw some towels down in the base of the cabinet and even build a plastic work bubble big enough for you and a vacuum helper. Watch my video on "how to cut and polish undercount sink" Same idea, but just use a lot less water. Try just a wet sponge during the polishing process instead of constant flowing water. Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.
Another great vid Jay! Question for you........ Do you reinforce sink rails with fiberglass / aluminum or just on specific granites that are more prone to snapping at the sink rails? Thanks!
Hello again Dan. We reinforce almost all kitchen sink runs now. All except for any engineered quartz, black absolute granite, steel grey granite, and black pearl granite. For the 20 min it takes to glue in rods, It's worth it. And we use 1/2" x 1/4" square steel stock. Note: this is for kitchen sink runs. For bathroom sink runs we do less than kitchens. Bathrooms usually just unstable marbles and travertines get rodded. Hope this helps Dan. Thanks.
These brackets will hold a cast iron or Tripple bowl sink. The only downside is, you might need to burn up two Sink Setter boxes to get it to work. I would say 80% of the time with cast iron, I build a sub-frame out of 1x3's or 1x4's. I don't have a video on this yet. If you build a solid sub-frame inside the cabinet, it's your best bet. You have think when mounting those sinks that someone will fill it with water and then drop a turkey in it too.That is a lot of weight. Build something you would feel safe standing in. Overkilling it is always the safest route.
@@GraniteByJay Thanks Jay... I hear ya'... this homeowner went out and bought the largest 3-Basin kitchen sink he could find... went into Palm Springs for the weekend to choose... I believe he (they) did it on purpose. Nice folks... teachers, they are... he has a trophy room off of the kitchen packed with stuffed Leopards, Lions, Cougars, Antelope, Elk, Bobcats, Bear... etc... I guess he needs a bigger basin to drain the blood...? I bought the pw-99's and 104's for what I hope will be in excess of this install. I've used plenty of the old style pw-99's in the past, but this is the biggest cast iron sink I have ever seen... 135 lbs. at least. Take care man.
@@eltorocal That is insane. Can't say I have seen a cast iron that big before. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Im curious to hear the route you go with.
I’m trying to replace an under mount sink, in a 31.5 inch ISD cabinet with a granite. The problem is the existing cut out is 31 by 21. So the sink mounting lip sit on cabinet edge, smashed between the base cabinet and two adjacent 12 inch wide cabinet edges and the granite. I thought maybe install a drop in but finding anything that would cover the hole would require trimming the granite. Thought about cutting out the top of base cabinet, then building some sort of platform to set an under mount sink on, as there would virtually no clearance on the side of the cabinets. Looking at at a Ruvati 33 by 22 zero radius workstation or something similar. Any thoughts?
Hello, Thats going to be a tough one. If your existing cut-out is 31"x21" I think your only option might be a top mount sink. I say this because all of the workstations are around 16" for back to front cut-out if undermounted. And you will definitely have an issue with the 33" left to right sink. Ruvati does make a 32" workstation. That is total size. Your cut-out for that sink would be 30" if you wanted it flush to the sink bowls. Which means your left to right cut-out is already too big. Now I'm not trying to discourage you. If there is a will, there is a way. And I have done plenty of undermount sinks that didn't fit in the cabinet. sometimes it requires cutting the side walls of the sink base cabinet to get them to fit. Feel free to write back with more questions and ideas. I'll help you find a sink that will work and talk you through the process if needed. (side note) I did have a similar situation once, and the only option was to change there sink to a farmhouse style workstation. It sounds like a lot of work but it was really just cutting some of the cabinet face off and cutting the front bar of the granite. I had it cut and repolished, and sink re-mounted, in 5 hours. They loved it.
Granite By Jay, I am open to apron/farmhouse style but it would need to be brushed stainless, looked ate Kholer retro fit but don’t think it will work because my front to back measurement is 23 1/4 from back cut out to face of cabinet. Either way, I’m open to cutting out the front granite and cabinet face. I need to do some homework, thanks for the response.
With this system, you can. If the inside of your cabinet is larger than the overall size of your sink. That is the best part of this option. But if that doesn't work, I have 3 other mounting options that you can find on my UA-cam home page. One of those ways might help out too.
Hi Steve. My rule of thumb is, if you're worried about it, Rod It. Don't overthink it. We rod almost everything with the exception of engineered quartz and black absolute granite. These materials are so durable that rodding it is overkill. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Awesome content Jay. I'm installing some salvaged 2 cm granite in my kitchen and I'm wondering, do you think the Sinksetter would be better than trying to drill the anchors into thinner stone? Should I also groove and rod the front and back areas of the sink cutout?
Thanks a ton George. I really appreciate it. I do believe the sink setter will be a better option for you with 2cm. One thing to watch out for - when using lighter 2cm stone, be careful not to over tighten the leveling bolts when mounting the sink. These bolts will easily lift the whole piece. Might cause the piece to crack. If your doing this yourself and do not have any time constraints, get everything lined up and make sure the sink will work and fit. First, silicone the piece real good to the cabinets. Then the next day come back and mount the sink. Less worries of raising the sink run. As far as the rods underneath, I wouldn't worry about at this point. The piece was already installed once and removed. You might weaken it more by cutting rod notches. When I rod sink runs, I do the notches and glue the rods in before cutting the undermount. Drilling in anchors is always an option too, but not my "go to" for kitchen sinks. And your right about 2cm. You can't drill as deep and get a really secure anchor. I always keep in mind when mounting sinks that one day someone will fill it with water and then drop a frozen turkey in it. Thats a lot of weight. Mount a sink so you would feel safe standing in it. I really hate going back to fix failed sinks. And it makes you look amateur. -- Hope this helps and let me know how it goes. Thanks man - - - - - Jay
@@GraniteByJay Thanks Jay. I looked at the Hercules Strap option, but the wire rigging on the Hercules just seemed cumbersome and prone to failure at the small attach brackets/turnbuckle. After watching your video, I was more impressed with the bracket and channel on the Sunsetter. Bought one tonight on Amazon for about $40. Thanks again for your response!
You can use this system for sure. That is if the sink is smaller then the inside of the cabinet. A lot of times the sink flange is resting on top of the cabinet. If you fix the sink in this way, the best is to take everything out first. Remove the sink and old mounting system or wood or clips. Clean up the sink. Then just start mounting the sink setter as if the countertops weren't there. It's one of my favorite ways to repair failed sinks in my opinion. Just remember to silicone the mounting bolts as your last step. It will prevent them from loosening over time due to vibrations from a disposal or from normal use.
Granite By Jay Really appreciate your video and your response. I have viewed a lot of under counter you tubes. This is the best I found and made me feel confident that I could complete the job with this sink setter. Thanks again Ron
Hi Steven. It's hard to say or give you a direct answer. Here are my 2cents. If it's a double bowl (or more) that sags in the middle, I like the sink setters. You get a stronger support from left to right. If it's a single bowl sink, I like studs or clips most of the time. You have now worries of the middle sagging on you with a single bowl. Last, I use the studs and bolts method almost 100% of the time with ceramic vanity sinks. Its so fast and they never fail.
Use none of those methods please. Sinks should be strapped in place only; all other methods leak. I make a living replacing sinks so I know a little bit about this. Hercules Universal Sink Harness from Braxton Bragg or Sink Strap from Granquartz.
@@josephcorlett6794 I have used the Hercules Sink Harness once and I have used the brackets and clips many many times. I haven't gotten a callback (yet) on the brackets and clips. I use a bracket that has a large base on it and epoxy it to the underside of the countertop. I use 8 to 10 brackets and clips depending on the sink. I have seen some pretty poor sink installations by other companies though. The sink setter looks like it would be the superior method above all but I haven't used it.
Hello. I wouldn't recommend this system for farmhouse sinks. Farmhouse's come in so many shapes, sizes and materials. (clay, aluminum, cast iron, copper etc..) Usually when I mount farmhouse sinks, I build a wood support frame under the sink and attached to the cabinet side walls. Some farmhouse's have normal sink flanges towards the top of the sink that you can use a tradition install method. But not all sinks are the same. For Kitchen and cost just contact your local granite fabrication shop. And not stone distributor. You have to go to a fabrication shop. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Eric. In the Sink Setter box, there is a "S" adapter for the back rail. This "S" works great for 60/40 or 40/60 sinks. It will also work on some 70/30 or 30/70 sinks. I say some, because I have run into issues in the past with getting the "S" to work and also not be in the way of the faucet hole. I"ll try and make a 60/40 video soon. It is a little different with the setup and making sure faucets and accessories all fit properly. Thanks and hope this helps.
@@GraniteByJay ive been an installer for 18 years in Maine,and we use clips some times but mostly pine cribs and shim up tight but shims (sometimes fall out). Always trying to find a better way.👍
@@ericnewton538 18 years is no joke man. You're a serious craftsman. Im at a little over 20 years. I'll tell you one thing. Every install is different. I found that there is no perfect system that works for all installs. But here are some of my favorites. GoClips or Sink Setters or Wood subframes or studs and clips or sometimes it works out that the sink flange fits perfectly on top of the cabinet. Cheers to 18 years man. Its not the most glamorous trade but it is a artistic trade none the less.
I have watched about 20 videos on how to install a undermount sink and this video killed it! Video skills are better than any of them!
Thanks so much. Really appreciate it. And check out the other sink install videos I have. Different situations have different approaches. Pick the best one that works for you.
Awesome work Jay.. Beyond work, you have also showed a lot photographic techniques. The angle at the granite carrying video has been shot was fantastic. Keep posting more videos. Just subscribed..
Thank you so much. More to come. This was awesome to see and means a lot. Really does. Much respect.
Thanks for sharing , Where can I buy this product?
I use clips bolt to in each corner and one in the middle of the back and is ready
Hi jay again great work. Check out big head glue and brackets more of a slim line thing and less chance of pushing stone up and breaking. Plus it's quicker and super strong. Keep up the good work.
Thanks again Vitor. Im going to check them out now. The heads up is much appreciated. Im always looking for new products to test out.
Great video! Just what I need to see. Thx.
Thank You. Much appreciated.
Where do you buy this kit? I Have looked on line and can't find it.
Check out this site. Good company and some great guys.
www.gmrqualitystoneproducts.com
More videos pleaaase ! Very good work
Thank you so much. Two recorded and 1 in the works.
Is it possible to replace this style sink with another single basin sink (same dimension) but with sharper edges?
With smaller radius corners? For sure you can. Just remove the sink and all the plumbing. You can throw some towels down in the base of the cabinet and even build a plastic work bubble big enough for you and a vacuum helper. Watch my video on "how to cut and polish undercount sink" Same idea, but just use a lot less water. Try just a wet sponge during the polishing process instead of constant flowing water. Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.
Another great vid Jay! Question for you........ Do you reinforce sink rails with fiberglass / aluminum or just on specific granites that are more prone to snapping at the sink rails? Thanks!
Hello again Dan. We reinforce almost all kitchen sink runs now. All except for any engineered quartz, black absolute granite, steel grey granite, and black pearl granite. For the 20 min it takes to glue in rods, It's worth it. And we use 1/2" x 1/4" square steel stock. Note: this is for kitchen sink runs. For bathroom sink runs we do less than kitchens. Bathrooms usually just unstable marbles and travertines get rodded. Hope this helps Dan. Thanks.
@@GraniteByJay Great info as usual! Thanks buddy. Cheers!
How about cast iron and porcelain Double and Triple Basin kitchen sinks?
These brackets will hold a cast iron or Tripple bowl sink. The only downside is, you might need to burn up two Sink Setter boxes to get it to work. I would say 80% of the time with cast iron, I build a sub-frame out of 1x3's or 1x4's. I don't have a video on this yet. If you build a solid sub-frame inside the cabinet, it's your best bet. You have think when mounting those sinks that someone will fill it with water and then drop a turkey in it too.That is a lot of weight. Build something you would feel safe standing in. Overkilling it is always the safest route.
@@GraniteByJay Thanks Jay... I hear ya'... this homeowner went out and bought the largest 3-Basin kitchen sink he could find... went into Palm Springs for the weekend to choose... I believe he (they) did it on purpose. Nice folks... teachers, they are... he has a trophy room off of the kitchen packed with stuffed Leopards, Lions, Cougars, Antelope, Elk, Bobcats, Bear... etc... I guess he needs a bigger basin to drain the blood...?
I bought the pw-99's and 104's for what I hope will be in excess of this install. I've used plenty of the old style pw-99's in the past, but this is the biggest cast iron sink I have ever seen... 135 lbs. at least.
Take care man.
@@eltorocal That is insane. Can't say I have seen a cast iron that big before. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Im curious to hear the route you go with.
@@GraniteByJay I'm installing the brackets tomorrow, along with the 5/8" sub-deck... I'll take pictures and upload as I go.
I’m trying to replace an under mount sink, in a 31.5 inch ISD cabinet with a granite. The problem is the existing cut out is 31 by 21. So the sink mounting lip sit on cabinet edge, smashed between the base cabinet and two adjacent 12 inch wide cabinet edges and the granite. I thought maybe install a drop in but finding anything that would cover the hole would require trimming the granite. Thought about cutting out the top of base cabinet, then building some sort of platform to set an under mount sink on, as there would virtually no clearance on the side of the cabinets. Looking at at a Ruvati 33 by 22 zero radius workstation or something similar. Any thoughts?
Hello, Thats going to be a tough one. If your existing cut-out is 31"x21" I think your only option might be a top mount sink. I say this because all of the workstations are around 16" for back to front cut-out if undermounted. And you will definitely have an issue with the 33" left to right sink. Ruvati does make a 32" workstation. That is total size. Your cut-out for that sink would be 30" if you wanted it flush to the sink bowls. Which means your left to right cut-out is already too big. Now I'm not trying to discourage you. If there is a will, there is a way. And I have done plenty of undermount sinks that didn't fit in the cabinet. sometimes it requires cutting the side walls of the sink base cabinet to get them to fit. Feel free to write back with more questions and ideas. I'll help you find a sink that will work and talk you through the process if needed. (side note) I did have a similar situation once, and the only option was to change there sink to a farmhouse style workstation. It sounds like a lot of work but it was really just cutting some of the cabinet face off and cutting the front bar of the granite. I had it cut and repolished, and sink re-mounted, in 5 hours. They loved it.
Granite By Jay, I am open to apron/farmhouse style but it would need to be brushed stainless, looked ate Kholer retro fit but don’t think it will work because my front to back measurement is 23 1/4 from back cut out to face of cabinet. Either way, I’m open to cutting out the front granite and cabinet face. I need to do some homework, thanks for the response.
Can you do this with the counter already installed?
With this system, you can. If the inside of your cabinet is larger than the overall size of your sink. That is the best part of this option. But if that doesn't work, I have 3 other mounting options that you can find on my UA-cam home page. One of those ways might help out too.
@@GraniteByJay thank you!
Should all sink openings be rodded?
Hi Steve. My rule of thumb is, if you're worried about it, Rod It. Don't overthink it. We rod almost everything with the exception of engineered quartz and black absolute granite. These materials are so durable that rodding it is overkill. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Sink Setter PW-114-P is Offset Side to Side, not straight as shown in video. Great video though, thanks for uploading.
Thanks Isaac. Much appreciated.
Awesome content Jay. I'm installing some salvaged 2 cm granite in my kitchen and I'm wondering, do you think the Sinksetter would be better than trying to drill the anchors into thinner stone? Should I also groove and rod the front and back areas of the sink cutout?
Thanks a ton George. I really appreciate it. I do believe the sink setter will be a better option for you with 2cm. One thing to watch out for - when using lighter 2cm stone, be careful not to over tighten the leveling bolts when mounting the sink. These bolts will easily lift the whole piece. Might cause the piece to crack. If your doing this yourself and do not have any time constraints, get everything lined up and make sure the sink will work and fit. First, silicone the piece real good to the cabinets. Then the next day come back and mount the sink. Less worries of raising the sink run. As far as the rods underneath, I wouldn't worry about at this point. The piece was already installed once and removed. You might weaken it more by cutting rod notches. When I rod sink runs, I do the notches and glue the rods in before cutting the undermount.
Drilling in anchors is always an option too, but not my "go to" for kitchen sinks. And your right about 2cm. You can't drill as deep and get a really secure anchor. I always keep in mind when mounting sinks that one day someone will fill it with water and then drop a frozen turkey in it. Thats a lot of weight. Mount a sink so you would feel safe standing in it. I really hate going back to fix failed sinks. And it makes you look amateur.
-- Hope this helps and let me know how it goes. Thanks man - - - - - Jay
@@GraniteByJay Thanks Jay. I looked at the Hercules Strap option, but the wire rigging on the Hercules just seemed cumbersome and prone to failure at the small attach brackets/turnbuckle. After watching your video, I was more impressed with the bracket and channel on the Sunsetter. Bought one tonight on Amazon for about $40.
Thanks again for your response!
@@ThePetlowany Hope it all works out for you George. Thanks for the comments and send me an update when your all done.
If the granite was already in place and you did not want to move the granite can you use this method to reinstall a sink that is falling down?
You can use this system for sure. That is if the sink is smaller then the inside of the cabinet. A lot of times the sink flange is resting on top of the cabinet.
If you fix the sink in this way, the best is to take everything out first. Remove the sink and old mounting system or wood or clips. Clean up the sink. Then just start mounting the sink setter as if the countertops weren't there.
It's one of my favorite ways to repair failed sinks in my opinion.
Just remember to silicone the mounting bolts as your last step. It will prevent them from loosening over time due to vibrations from a disposal or from normal use.
Granite By Jay Really appreciate your video and your response.
I have viewed a lot of under counter you tubes. This is the best I found and made me feel confident that I could complete the job with this sink setter.
Thanks again
Ron
@@officeadministrator4325 Thanks a ton man. I really appreciate it. More to come and feel free to reach out whenever.
How do you decided when to use a sink setter and when to use the bolt, epoxy, and clip method?
Hi Steven. It's hard to say or give you a direct answer. Here are my 2cents. If it's a double bowl (or more) that sags in the middle, I like the sink setters. You get a stronger support from left to right. If it's a single bowl sink, I like studs or clips most of the time. You have now worries of the middle sagging on you with a single bowl. Last, I use the studs and bolts method almost 100% of the time with ceramic vanity sinks. Its so fast and they never fail.
Use none of those methods please. Sinks should be strapped in place only; all other methods leak. I make a living replacing sinks so I know a little bit about this. Hercules Universal Sink Harness from Braxton Bragg or Sink Strap from Granquartz.
@@josephcorlett6794 I have used the Hercules Sink Harness once and I have used the brackets and clips many many times. I haven't gotten a callback (yet) on the brackets and clips. I use a bracket that has a large base on it and epoxy it to the underside of the countertop. I use 8 to 10 brackets and clips depending on the sink. I have seen some pretty poor sink installations by other companies though. The sink setter looks like it would be the superior method above all but I haven't used it.
This method you use can it be done a double farm sink? And where do I get kit and the cost?? Please let me know thank you.
Hello. I wouldn't recommend this system for farmhouse sinks. Farmhouse's come in so many shapes, sizes and materials. (clay, aluminum, cast iron, copper etc..) Usually when I mount farmhouse sinks, I build a wood support frame under the sink and attached to the cabinet side walls. Some farmhouse's have normal sink flanges towards the top of the sink that you can use a tradition install method. But not all sinks are the same. For Kitchen and cost just contact your local granite fabrication shop. And not stone distributor. You have to go to a fabrication shop. Thanks for the comment.
Nice brother
Thanks man
Hercules is the best option
What about a 60/40sink?
Hi Eric. In the Sink Setter box, there is a "S" adapter for the back rail. This "S" works great for 60/40 or 40/60 sinks. It will also work on some 70/30 or 30/70 sinks. I say some, because I have run into issues in the past with getting the "S" to work and also not be in the way of the faucet hole. I"ll try and make a 60/40 video soon. It is a little different with the setup and making sure faucets and accessories all fit properly. Thanks and hope this helps.
@@GraniteByJay ive been an installer for 18 years in Maine,and we use clips some times but mostly pine cribs and shim up tight but shims (sometimes fall out). Always trying to find a better way.👍
@@ericnewton538 18 years is no joke man. You're a serious craftsman. Im at a little over 20 years. I'll tell you one thing. Every install is different. I found that there is no perfect system that works for all installs. But here are some of my favorites. GoClips or Sink Setters or Wood subframes or studs and clips or sometimes it works out that the sink flange fits perfectly on top of the cabinet. Cheers to 18 years man. Its not the most glamorous trade but it is a artistic trade none the less.
I work at a stone shop... this is a huge waste of time. Our installers would quit lol
Better using clips