Also, thoes are not Phillips screws, they are JIS. They look very similar, and a Phillips head screwdriver will work, however, you run the risk of stripping the screws. Get the proper screwdriver, you will be glad you did.
Your pop off pressure showed much less then 20 psi. More like 16-17psi. Why did you not mention this and show how to correct it by changing springs or any other way of making the adjustment to get the correct pressure? Seems you are defeating the purpose of a rebuild if not done to specs!
Yal have clearly never looked at a gauge at an angle. The camera wasn’t facing straight on towards the face of the gauge.... I saw 18 +/- the first time. Which was Probly right at 20. Don’t be a Karen.
@@jcbenson01 I guess close to 18psi. Even if it was 20 psi there are very very few sea doos that would actually be in spec for... SBT=JUNK idk how they stay in business honestly
There is a range for the pressure but they don't tell you in this video. About 20 must mean 15-25 I'm guessing. Why do they tell you to change the spring anyway, it's not like they will wear out. Unless it's corroded, I would leave the original spring in there.
Ive just rebuilt an SBN 44 on a Kawasaki Sxi pro (same carb as in video). Now the carb spits a lot of fuel out of the top? can anyone tell me why? It ran fine before I rebuilt the carb.
First, be sure to check the Needle & Seat and make sure you're using the OE recommended size seat. Depending on your application, the seat sizes ranges from 1.2 up to 2.5 and are used in conjunction with the proper colored spring to make the correct amount of pop-off. Updated pop off charts are available online from Mikuni, SBT, and others and they can be handy for reference. If you ski is stock (unmodified) and you want it to run reliably, use the OE recommended size N&S and spring! Be absolutely sure that the small o-ring on the face of the seat is brand new and that the needle doesn't have a "ridge" or line. Both MUST seat properly or you could have a seal issue or "dribbling" problem. Since your carb is spitting out fuel, it sounds like you've got a dribbler... it's usually a fairly easy fix.
Lower screw on carb body is low speed screw start at 1 turn out upper left side is high speed start with it slightly closed remember this is just a universal setting adjust as heeded
Those should have a dot stamped into it right in one of the triangles of the x slot so they're actually JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screws not phillips. A phillips head screwdriver or bit will have a longer tip that prevents the blades from engaging all the way into the head of the screw. I think the blades may be a little thicker and flat sided (not tapered) also. You can either get a JIS driver or bit or if you can't find one, I've found that taking a #2 Phillips (in most cases) and grinding a little off of the tip will let the driver seat into the screw sufficiently to keep from stripping the head. An impact driver could work too but remember to make or use a JIS bit and also putting the bit in the head of the screw and tapping it with a small hammer to shock the threads and seat the bit will usually make it easier to break it loose. Vise grips on the outside of it (provided you have room) can work if the head is stripped or it's really stuck, like someone else mentioned in the last reply. JIS is the real key.
First of all, get some gloves that are tight to your skin to make easier, his were driving me crazy. At 4:58 you mentioned that you were using a Phillips head screwdriver with no mention of JIS. Wouldn't a JIS driver be the proper one for that and all the other screws on the carbs? Amazing, those clear plastic check valves with the blue line. They're clear plastic, could they make it more difficult to figure out? Is there a little concave or convex to them? Another video mentioned that there is.
Check throttle plate make sure it is closed engine should not start if it does check for air leak make repairs open throttle plate from closed position to just slightly open and restart engine adjust throttle screw so that out of water idle is about 1500-1800 rpms
You never mentioned that ALL those screws are JIS japanese industry standard and NOT phillips screws. I guess you dont care that everyone strips them out with a phillips screwdriver.
Wow you should take this down I mean for real you guys are a big company this is about 30% accurate and the real important details like making sure the check valve is flat you don’t show or how to not go all the inside of the seat with the needle nose pliers that you use to pull it out. By the way the spring that you said sort of match does a totally different setting and now the thing will probably not run right I mean for real dude you don’t really know what you’re talking about take this video down
@@chives3034 the correct way to do this is test pop off pressure first if it's in spec keep the spring that is already in the carburetor and use all the other rebuild parts
I agree, this video is fraught with errors or misnomers, but this obviously is a parts guy doing it not a mechanic that rebuilds them all the time. He probably just got training from a real mechanic recently before the video was shot. He doesn't even know the screws are JIS not Phillips head. The check valve installation wasn't really descriptive enough either. How about some written instructions with the kit? Would that really cost a lot more for instructions like all carb rebuild kit manufacturers used to provide with specs for all the variations of carbs by serial number.
Also, thoes are not Phillips screws, they are JIS. They look very similar, and a Phillips head screwdriver will work, however, you run the risk of stripping the screws. Get the proper screwdriver, you will be glad you did.
8:16 and were finished to put the diaframs in"
Wel how did you do that? Because it's a nightmare to get those rubber grommets in place!
there is a video which uses tooth floss. to pull them in . looks way easier. use wd40 to help as well. like thread pulling a needle.
@SBT - Clearwater FL
I have SBN44 I do exactly what have been done in video and needle never pop off even after I reach 7 bar
Your pop off pressure showed much less then 20 psi. More like 16-17psi. Why did you not mention this and show how to correct it by changing springs or any other way of making the adjustment to get the correct pressure? Seems you are defeating the purpose of a rebuild if not done to specs!
because they are fucking stupid......that psi was 15 each time.
Guage: 15psi
SBT: yep, about 20psi there.
Yal have clearly never looked at a gauge at an angle. The camera wasn’t facing straight on towards the face of the gauge.... I saw 18 +/- the first time. Which was Probly right at 20. Don’t be a Karen.
@@jcbenson01 I guess close to 18psi. Even if it was 20 psi there are very very few sea doos that would actually be in spec for... SBT=JUNK idk how they stay in business honestly
There is a range for the pressure but they don't tell you in this video. About 20 must mean 15-25 I'm guessing. Why do they tell you to change the spring anyway, it's not like they will wear out. Unless it's corroded, I would leave the original spring in there.
thank you - this really helped.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
what is the adequate pressure for the two carburettors of seaado xp 95 and where can I buy the pump to check the pressure?
Ive just rebuilt an SBN 44 on a Kawasaki Sxi pro (same carb as in video). Now the carb spits a lot of fuel out of the top? can anyone tell me why? It ran fine before I rebuilt the carb.
I would check your read valves. They could be letting air back out through the carb making the fuel spray up.
First, be sure to check the Needle & Seat and make sure you're using the OE recommended size seat. Depending on your application, the seat sizes ranges from 1.2 up to 2.5 and are used in conjunction with the proper colored spring to make the correct amount of pop-off. Updated pop off charts are available online from Mikuni, SBT, and others and they can be handy for reference. If you ski is stock (unmodified) and you want it to run reliably, use the OE recommended size N&S and spring! Be absolutely sure that the small o-ring on the face of the seat is brand new and that the needle doesn't have a "ridge" or line. Both MUST seat properly or you could have a seal issue or "dribbling" problem. Since your carb is spitting out fuel, it sounds like you've got a dribbler... it's usually a fairly easy fix.
i enjoyed your video. Thank you
Twin keihin 40s on my 750 kawi what spring should i use for the need valve? My kit came with 3 hard medium and soft. Thanks
Show me how to adjust the fuel mixture!
Lower screw on carb body is low speed screw start at 1 turn out upper left side is high speed start with it slightly closed remember this is just a universal setting adjust as heeded
Any tips for removing the screws that hold the top covers if they do not want to budge?
Use an impact screw driver.
I grab mine with a small vise grip plier to break them loose.
Those should have a dot stamped into it right in one of the triangles of the x slot so they're actually JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screws not phillips. A phillips head screwdriver or bit will have a longer tip that prevents the blades from engaging all the way into the head of the screw. I think the blades may be a little thicker and flat sided (not tapered) also. You can either get a JIS driver or bit or if you can't find one, I've found that taking a #2 Phillips (in most cases) and grinding a little off of the tip will let the driver seat into the screw sufficiently to keep from stripping the head. An impact driver could work too but remember to make or use a JIS bit and also putting the bit in the head of the screw and tapping it with a small hammer to shock the threads and seat the bit will usually make it easier to break it loose. Vise grips on the outside of it (provided you have room) can work if the head is stripped or it's really stuck, like someone else mentioned in the last reply. JIS is the real key.
Did you not need a special tool to install the check valve grommet? My oem kit says you do
I use fishing line and pull it through
First of all, get some gloves that are tight to your skin to make easier, his were driving me crazy. At 4:58 you mentioned that you were using a Phillips head screwdriver with no mention of JIS. Wouldn't a JIS driver be the proper one for that and all the other screws on the carbs? Amazing, those clear plastic check valves with the blue line. They're clear plastic, could they make it more difficult to figure out? Is there a little concave or convex to them? Another video mentioned that there is.
great vid thanks alot
Why is using a flea market screwdriver?
ok when I start mine up it wants to run wide open any suggestions thanks
That is caused by an air leak. carb base gaskets, crankshaft seals, etc.
ok thanks I rebuild the carb and didn't change the way it run,if I choke it then it will help by flooding it I would think but thanks for suggestions
Check throttle plate make sure it is closed engine should not start if it does check for air leak make repairs open throttle plate from closed position to just slightly open and restart engine adjust throttle screw so that out of water idle is about 1500-1800 rpms
You never mentioned that ALL those screws are JIS japanese industry standard and NOT phillips screws. I guess you dont care that everyone strips them out with a phillips screwdriver.
They can sell you new ones.🤣
you didnt even clean the corrosion all over the inside of carb and the bolts, that could clog the jets... and popoff pressure is wrong
show me where the pule line on carb goes and the gray line from engine to carb 1995 SEA DOO GTX 657x engine
ASAP
Wow you should take this down I mean for real you guys are a big company this is about 30% accurate and the real important details like making sure the check valve is flat you don’t show or how to not go all the inside of the seat with the needle nose pliers that you use to pull it out. By the way the spring that you said sort of match does a totally different setting and now the thing will probably not run right I mean for real dude you don’t really know what you’re talking about take this video down
How would you determine the proper spring to use.
@@chives3034 the correct way to do this is test pop off pressure first if it's in spec keep the spring that is already in the carburetor and use all the other rebuild parts
I agree, this video is fraught with errors or misnomers, but this obviously is a parts guy doing it not a mechanic that rebuilds them all the time. He probably just got training from a real mechanic recently before the video was shot. He doesn't even know the screws are JIS not Phillips head. The check valve installation wasn't really descriptive enough either. How about some written instructions with the kit? Would that really cost a lot more for instructions like all carb rebuild kit manufacturers used to provide with specs for all the variations of carbs by serial number.
No accelerater pump
Redacten en español xf
20 psi ??????? Where that’s 15....16
He says "about" 20psi but doesn't say how much either way is acceptable.
Mannnn you don’t need gloves😡😡