I use "electronic cleaner" as a spray solvent for purging carb orifices. It's less harsh on potted metal, it evaporates quickly, doesn't strip off paint, and frankly it doesn't really hurt if you happen to get it in your eyes. While on the other hand, if you've never experienced it, carb cleaner in the eye is pain city. This is the best jet ski carb rebuild video I've seen so far. The others do all kinds of NO in their vids. I had to stop myself from commenting on the guy's channel, "don't do anything you saw in this video". 🤣 But you are great. Thanks for the walk thru. 👍
Really needed this video. Just picked up a 2001 sea doo gs (with 717 rotax). I hope to get it running soon, needs all new lines, and its not getting fuel but has 150 compression in each cylinder and has spark. hoping this will fix it and get it running!
Awesome. Glad it was a benefit to you! - I run all XPS synthetic. XPS is what is recommended because the blend is 'friendlier' to the crank seals. I am not a BRP spokesman. ..lol
The low speed adjuster is the larger screw and the high speed adjuster is the smaller screw. To adjust them on the bench, please refer to your manufacturer's recommended setting. Use this link to find out your adjustment settings as well as jetting information: www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html Once you set it on the bench, you want to make sure you are metering enough fuel during operation. You will need to assess how well the boat idles and how smooth acceleration is. The simple way of tuning is by doing plug chops. You can find these directions at the bottom of this page: www.seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html
Great vid. My 1997 seadoo xp800 runs great once running. My problem is starting when hot after sitting awhile. If I try to start XP right away after riding or up to 30 seconds fire right up without touching throttle. If I let it sit for awhile like 5-10or more mins it need wide open throttle to get going again and seems like it flooded for a bit and needs to be held wide open to clear out. Turning fuel off does seem to help but not fix problem. Compresssion150psi each cylinder and plug look perfect after running nice tan colour. Any idea would be great. I am thinking leaking needle and seat or o-ring under seat. But do I need to remove carbs to change seat and needle? And xp has two carbs. If it wasn't for the starting hot after sitting I would leave them alone since xp runs so good. Thanks for any help.
You will need to remove the carbs. Maybe its time to clean and rebuild them. Use only mikuni oem kits. Nick Grillo from www.osdfuel.com has what you need. I have examined the stuff I get from him and it is second to none.
Using soapy water I’m getting bubbles coming out of pulse nipple where brass meets the body, of course doing the first pressure test will not hold 5-10psi. I don’t see any visible cracks, does that mean carb needs to be rebuilt or replaced? It was rebuilt but by unreliable source!!
96 xp uses dual carbs. This is a single carb. The 38/40mm carbs are basically the same except the diameter of the venturi. The jetting is different for each.
At 6:57 you put the rubber ring seal on first followed by the rubber mat gasket. My Mikuni 44 has a clear diafram between the ring seal and the rubber mat gasket. Did you forget this or does this seedoo model not have it?
@two-smoke for some reason I rebuilt my sea doo carburetor, but since installing it the pto side carburetor floods that cylinder and it stalls out. I cannot seem to find the problem. Do you have any ideas?
@@2-smoke No, I replaced the needle with a cheap replacement from an amazon rebuild kit. I didnt realize that the seat can be removed, I will try that. Thanks a lot!
Mr. 2- smoke, what about carb #2 (one without fuel pump) it has a plate with a curved hose connection and the arrows indicate gas in/out HOWEVER the one that is curved is totally blocked IS THAT NORMAL? air cannot clear it nor a piece of wire.
From what I gather from your question, you are saying the brass barb (either inlet or return) is clogged. Based my experience, it would take a lot to clog the fuel inlet, but the fuel return barb leads to a very small port on the inside. This hole could get clogged easily. Use carb cleaner with the nozzle and shoot it in there. You can also use an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one. Last thing I do would be to blow it out with an air compressor.
I bought a mikuni carb kit for my 2002 Waverunner xlt1200 and the two rubber seals were round and not thick enough to seal. The original were more square. And it’s apparently the correct Super BNI kit. Anyone heard of this?
Are you talking about the round and formed o-rings? In genuine mikuni carb kits, the tubes of the o-rings are + shaped, not round or squared. You probably bought an aftermarket kit. I suggest using OEM.
@@2-smoke thanks for the response. I bought the Mikuni Genuine Component Mk-46I which is supposed to be for the Yamaha 1200 with power valve. The 66V motor. The two rubber “rings” are in the fuel pump on either side of the check valve body. The one is ring with ears. The supplied ones were too thin, and would not seal. Did not come high enough outside the groove they sit in.
@@2-smoke It came from a reputable parts seller in business for 25 years. All original Mikuni packaging and pricing. $90 Canadian. Everything else in the kit was high quality. Winners Circle Motorsports in Markham Ontario. Page 616 of the marine/watercraft catalogue.
Hello. www.osdparts.com is where I source most of my OEM parts. If you join the Seadoo Two Stroke Owners page on Facebook, you can mention that you are member and he will give you an additional discount when you go to order.
I can’t believe how clean that is.
I use "electronic cleaner" as a spray solvent for purging carb orifices. It's less harsh on potted metal, it evaporates quickly, doesn't strip off paint, and frankly it doesn't really hurt if you happen to get it in your eyes. While on the other hand, if you've never experienced it, carb cleaner in the eye is pain city.
This is the best jet ski carb rebuild video I've seen so far. The others do all kinds of NO in their vids. I had to stop myself from commenting on the guy's channel, "don't do anything you saw in this video". 🤣
But you are great. Thanks for the walk thru. 👍
Thank you very much. I appreciate the feedback. I agree. Carb cleaner can be harsh... and it's easy to forget gloves and eye protection! Please share!
@@2-smoke link for the presure tester you were using??
@@tylerhoward2703 www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sbt-pop-off-pressure-pump-gauge-carburetor-repair.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7aqkBhDPARIsAKGa0oKcUoi84HPDL8AKHWcIhLa9p5V8OAzwtfaZaOpvLUiyK4ERCVTRRzEaAv8lEALw_wcB
Great information. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey 2 smoke, would you want to re-build a set of khenin carbs from a 99 ultra 150. Cant find any mechanics in my area to help
Really needed this video. Just picked up a 2001 sea doo gs (with 717 rotax). I hope to get it running soon, needs all new lines, and its not getting fuel but has 150 compression in each cylinder and has spark. hoping this will fix it and get it running!
Also what type of oil do you prefer to run in your ski?
Awesome. Glad it was a benefit to you! - I run all XPS synthetic. XPS is what is recommended because the blend is 'friendlier' to the crank seals. I am not a BRP spokesman. ..lol
Dominator oil
where did you get your pressure tester?
Yes where did you get the pressure tester?
great video Thank YOU !!! Can you tell me how to set the low and high adjusters ??
The low speed adjuster is the larger screw and the high speed adjuster is the smaller screw. To adjust them on the bench, please refer to your manufacturer's recommended setting. Use this link to find out your adjustment settings as well as jetting information: www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html
Once you set it on the bench, you want to make sure you are metering enough fuel during operation. You will need to assess how well the boat idles and how smooth acceleration is. The simple way of tuning is by doing plug chops. You can find these directions at the bottom of this page: www.seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html
Great vid. My 1997 seadoo xp800 runs great once running. My problem is starting when hot after sitting awhile. If I try to start XP right away after riding or up to 30 seconds fire right up without touching throttle. If I let it sit for awhile like 5-10or more mins it need wide open throttle to get going again and seems like it flooded for a bit and needs to be held wide open to clear out. Turning fuel off does seem to help but not fix problem. Compresssion150psi each cylinder and plug look perfect after running nice tan colour. Any idea would be great. I am thinking leaking needle and seat or o-ring under seat. But do I need to remove carbs to change seat and needle? And xp has two carbs. If it wasn't for the starting hot after sitting I would leave them alone since xp runs so good. Thanks for any help.
Do you recommend a place to buy tool for pressure testing carb.
You will need to remove the carbs. Maybe its time to clean and rebuild them. Use only mikuni oem kits. Nick Grillo from www.osdfuel.com has what you need. I have examined the stuff I get from him and it is second to none.
Yes. I got one from SBT. I like it better than using a bicycle pump.
Using soapy water I’m getting bubbles coming out of pulse nipple where brass meets the body, of course doing the first pressure test will not hold 5-10psi. I don’t see any visible cracks, does that mean carb needs to be rebuilt or replaced? It was rebuilt but by unreliable source!!
Find me on Facebook and send me a video.
facebook.com/2smokecarbrebuild?mibextid=LQQJ4d
Great video!
Thanks!
thanks for the vid
Thanks for watching!
What spring did you cange for pop off pressure? Is that carb the same as the 96 xp carb?
96 xp uses dual carbs. This is a single carb. The 38/40mm carbs are basically the same except the diameter of the venturi. The jetting is different for each.
80g black spring
At 6:57 you put the rubber ring seal on first followed by the rubber mat gasket. My Mikuni 44 has a clear diafram between the ring seal and the rubber mat gasket. Did you forget this or does this seedoo model not have it?
On the 38mm Seadoo carbs you don’t use a clear diaphragm. On the 44 and 46s, you do. Please see my 951 carb rebuild video to view that step.
@two-smoke for some reason I rebuilt my sea doo carburetor, but since installing it the pto side carburetor floods that cylinder and it stalls out. I cannot seem to find the problem. Do you have any ideas?
Did you use oem needle seat valves?
@@2-smoke No, I replaced the needle with a cheap replacement from an amazon rebuild kit. I didnt realize that the seat can be removed, I will try that. Thanks a lot!
@@kylee517 buy your genuine oem kit from www.osdparts.com
Mr. 2- smoke, what about carb #2 (one without fuel pump) it has a plate with a curved hose connection and the arrows indicate gas in/out HOWEVER the one that is curved is totally blocked IS THAT NORMAL? air cannot clear it nor a piece of wire.
From what I gather from your question, you are saying the brass barb (either inlet or return) is clogged. Based my experience, it would take a lot to clog the fuel inlet, but the fuel return barb leads to a very small port on the inside. This hole could get clogged easily. Use carb cleaner with the nozzle and shoot it in there. You can also use an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one. Last thing I do would be to blow it out with an air compressor.
I bought a mikuni carb kit for my 2002 Waverunner xlt1200 and the two rubber seals were round and not thick enough to seal. The original were more square. And it’s apparently the correct Super BNI kit. Anyone heard of this?
Are you talking about the round and formed o-rings? In genuine mikuni carb kits, the tubes of the o-rings are + shaped, not round or squared. You probably bought an aftermarket kit. I suggest using OEM.
@@2-smoke thanks for the response. I bought the Mikuni Genuine Component Mk-46I which is supposed to be for the Yamaha 1200 with power valve. The 66V motor. The two rubber “rings” are in the fuel pump on either side of the check valve body. The one is ring with ears. The supplied ones were too thin, and would not seal. Did not come high enough outside the groove they sit in.
@@gratd981 where did you buy this? I highly doubt it was made by Mikuni if the o-rings didn’t seal. What’s the website you bought them from?
@@2-smoke It came from a reputable parts seller in business for 25 years. All original Mikuni packaging and pricing. $90 Canadian. Everything else in the kit was high quality. Winners Circle Motorsports in Markham Ontario. Page 616 of the marine/watercraft catalogue.
Do you have any desire to help rebuild my 2001 GTI?
Sorry - I am busy with carb work all summer.
Can you help me with a good reliable place to get rebuild kit for my single?
Thanks
Hello. www.osdparts.com is where I source most of my OEM parts. If you join the Seadoo Two Stroke Owners page on Facebook, you can mention that you are member and he will give you an additional discount when you go to order.
Thanks,! for the quick reply!!