Thanks for that taped on "X" on the door, I haven't seen anyone do that, it's a great visual to keep novices like me remembering what the affects of any move is.
Fascinating and educational. Surely I am about to make my door worse but like you said, little increments and I may have success! Thanks for a great explanation and the X!!
You have explained this the best of anyone ! Thanks so much for sharing, this is very valuable knowledge ! Maybe I can get the gaps more correct on my 68 Camaro now.😊
Thank you so very much for this detailed explanations, especially for pointing out that the nuts which holt the door on the hinges can also be used for the alignment, before I thought only about the bolts which attach the hinges to the frame. I need to adjust a newly installed door on our 2009 Nissan Sentra. The old one was damaged by the hit, so we bought another door and replacing it. The big question is about alignment. In Shop Manual I have for that car they give all the numbers for door adjustment which should be done after the installation of a new door. They say you release the bolts which keep the door on the frame and make the necessary adjustments. Now I see how to set the mm-s they advise, like here 4 mm gap, there 5 mm gap, everything on the picture, they show those gaps, but I had no clue how to set them. And also there are several films w/a special adjustment tool, like Leslie Door Adjustment Tool (Amazon), where people just lift the door without tightening anything. How that procedure id related to the method you described here. Are they are 2 different and independent procedures on a door alignment? Thank you for this informative film again.
If you need to increase the gap between the front and rear door, are you supposed to lift (support) the door w/Jack Lift a bit? I even don't know, I need to adjust the gaps on a newly installed door, but that door doesn't move forward at all. I don't know what it is, I've released the hinge bolts and tried to move forward (I practically have no gap between the front and rear door), but it doesn't work, it didn't move a single mm. Or I do smth wrong, or the A-pillar was bent till the point that you can't do those adjustments. It doesn't show anything visually, but the front door was damaged badly. Or maybe you need to do it w/support of the Jack Lift. The Fender is off of course. I would appreciate any opinions on this matter. Thank you for the informative film.
Excellent information. Thanks for making it. Been wrestling a 88 grand wagoneer door....I think I have made every mistake possible. Have one more. The front door seems more like a truck door hinge. Just need to get the bottom to pull in. I will put me an big "x" on it this weekend and have a beer to help my thinking then try it again...instead of using the drunk monkey technique used on the last three that I just got lucky on and learned nothing ....I learned more in this one video than doing it the 6 times I've attempted it on this jeep...thanks again
Great explanation. Bought an E-Bay hinge for my F150 and it did not fit worth a damn. Also forgot to capture the plate inside the cowl. Had a hell of a time. Ending putting the old hinge back on and got real lucky. Fits great. NOT AN EASY JOB!
so impressed .i over exstended my pu door 2014 gms 1500 . i put new hinges and the top of window frame whistles some air .wasnt sure about rolling window down and useing the block of wood to push it in about a 1/8 of a inch .i will try it .i can pull it in while driving and make the seal so its close . thanks for your instruction teacher ..!!
This was very helpful. If you are replacing a quarter panel would align the door to the rocker panel/front cowl and then align the quarter panel to the door?
❤ thank you very much Will this apply to 2nd gen f body as well. You make this seem easy. I've been aggravated at passenger side door. I just got my driver side door and window adjusted. I'm putting tape on my door to help me remember the adjustment. Thanks
Nice tip I will be defenatley using it I'm redoing my 1964 impala 2 door coop ,one question do you have the internal winding mechanism and window in the door when you a line the door or not ,Jack
Great explanation. Moving the top hinge forward will raise the door like you explained. So moving the bottom hinge back should raise the door?? I have an 85 c10 an i just cant get consistent gaps. Top gap along the drip rail is wide it gets worse as you follow door towards the rear of the cab. Top rear gap along the cab is wider than the bottom rear gap. Give me a hard time.
Man, I'm still a little confused by the X movement. If the striker is still installed then I see the rotational movement on an axis from the striker to the non-moving hinge. Basically making a V with the tape from hinges to the striker. Without the striker installed I would think it would behave like opening an oven door. when you pulled the top out, the entire top of the door would move out and the entire bottom would move in, all pivoting around the lower hinge horizontal axis.
I have a 1961 Econoline truck I remove the door to put electric windows in and new weather stripping on the doors had no problem till I reinstalled the doors I cannot get them to close all the way the pin in the hinges has a little play do you think that the weather stripping could be the culprit? as to why the door doesn't close all the way?( the old weather stripping was the original.)
Probably ,move the striker out and shut the it will be tight as the weatherstrip crushes in a few days keep moving it in waiting a day or so till you get it aligned
i backed up with the door open and bent the door too far. the front of the door overlaps the fender , plus the front of the door is hanging noticeably low. i can see the top hinge is bent outward bending it back hasn't fixed the gap. am i better off going to a junk yard and getting a hinger that's not bent than trying to fix these hinges?
My kid got hit by someone backing out on the passenger door, he beat the hasp and striker bar so bad and were talking a 40 year old. I had to replace the whole dam door. So i hung a salvage door on his car i closed it so it was latched then made sure the back was straight never looked at the bottom , when i was done it looked good all the lines matched up. One problem when you open it it drops slightly when you close it is raises up slightly but it works so i left it alone. And by the way the bottom is straight also, so im thinking the striker bar is off slightly. But im not going to adjust it. Good enough for government work. Its a 2005 car not a 50 year old collectors car at some point its headed back to a salvage yard anyway.
When closed all the way my door stands proud of the rear panel all the way down the rear gap. The front gap is nice and flush. So it looks like the door is not closed all the way.. How to fix that?
Thanks for that taped on "X" on the door, I haven't seen anyone do that, it's a great visual to keep novices like me remembering what the affects of any move is.
Fascinating and educational. Surely I am about to make my door worse but like you said, little increments and I may have success! Thanks for a great explanation and the X!!
You have explained this the best of anyone ! Thanks so much for sharing, this is very valuable knowledge ! Maybe I can get the gaps more correct on my 68 Camaro now.😊
Thank you so very much for this detailed explanations, especially for pointing out that the nuts which holt the door on the hinges can also be used for the alignment, before I thought only about the bolts which attach the hinges to the frame. I need to adjust a newly installed door on our 2009 Nissan Sentra. The old one was damaged by the hit, so we bought another door and replacing it. The big question is about alignment. In Shop Manual I have for that car they give all the numbers for door adjustment which should be done after the installation of a new door. They say you release the bolts which keep the door on the frame and make the necessary adjustments. Now I see how to set the mm-s they advise, like here 4 mm gap, there 5 mm gap, everything on the picture, they show those gaps, but I had no clue how to set them. And also there are several films w/a special adjustment tool, like Leslie Door Adjustment Tool (Amazon), where people just lift the door without tightening anything. How that procedure id related to the method you described here. Are they are 2 different and independent procedures on a door alignment? Thank you for this informative film again.
That X was the best thing i learned today. Thank you!!!!
No other video on youtube tops this one. Great explanation and thank you
If you need to increase the gap between the front and rear door, are you supposed to lift (support) the door w/Jack Lift a bit? I even don't know, I need to adjust the gaps on a newly installed door, but that door doesn't move forward at all. I don't know what it is, I've released the hinge bolts and tried to move forward (I practically have no gap between the front and rear door), but it doesn't work, it didn't move a single mm. Or I do smth wrong, or the A-pillar was bent till the point that you can't do those adjustments. It doesn't show anything visually, but the front door was damaged badly. Or maybe you need to do it w/support of the Jack Lift. The Fender is off of course. I would appreciate any opinions on this matter. Thank you for the informative film.
Excellent information. Thanks for making it. Been wrestling a 88 grand wagoneer door....I think I have made every mistake possible. Have one more. The front door seems more like a truck door hinge. Just need to get the bottom to pull in. I will put me an big "x" on it this weekend and have a beer to help my thinking then try it again...instead of using the drunk monkey technique used on the last three that I just got lucky on and learned nothing ....I learned more in this one video than doing it the 6 times I've attempted it on this jeep...thanks again
Great explanation. Bought an E-Bay hinge for my F150 and it did not fit worth a damn. Also forgot to capture the plate inside the cowl. Had a hell of a time. Ending putting the old hinge back on and got real lucky. Fits great. NOT AN EASY JOB!
That was really interesting! I always wondered how you get all 4 sides to match so well.
so impressed .i over exstended my pu door 2014 gms 1500 . i put new hinges and the top of window frame whistles some air .wasnt sure about rolling window down and useing the block of wood to push it in about a 1/8 of a inch .i will try it .i can pull it in while driving and make the seal so its close . thanks for your instruction teacher ..!!
Years of experience you can tell by his cool and calm explanation.
Thanks great way to explain it so even i could get it.
Excellent video. Glad I ran into it. Don’t need it but I sure learnt something new here.
Thank you for your valuable explanation
I know I'm late saying thanks but you really helped
Thanks for the great instructions! Really good video!
This was very helpful. If you are replacing a quarter panel would align the door to the rocker panel/front cowl and then align the quarter panel to the door?
❤ thank you very much
Will this apply to 2nd gen f body as well. You make this seem easy. I've been aggravated at passenger side door. I just got my driver side door and window adjusted. I'm putting tape on my door to help me remember the adjustment. Thanks
Nice tip I will be defenatley using it I'm redoing my 1964 impala 2 door coop ,one question do you have the internal winding mechanism and window in the door when you a line the door or not ,Jack
Great explanation. Moving the top hinge forward will raise the door like you explained. So moving the bottom hinge back should raise the door??
I have an 85 c10 an i just cant get consistent gaps. Top gap along the drip rail is wide it gets worse as you follow door towards the rear of the cab. Top rear gap along the cab is wider than the bottom rear gap. Give me a hard time.
Thanks. Will help re align my cadillac passenger door ✌️
Thanks, how do you adjust door latch catch posts, great videos, hope to see more
Great video, thank you
Very good explanation on door alignment .
Man, I'm still a little confused by the X movement. If the striker is still installed then I see the rotational movement on an axis from the striker to the non-moving hinge. Basically making a V with the tape from hinges to the striker. Without the striker installed I would think it would behave like opening an oven door. when you pulled the top out, the entire top of the door would move out and the entire bottom would move in, all pivoting around the lower hinge horizontal axis.
Grate explanation ,thankyou very much
I have a 1961 Econoline truck I remove the door to put electric windows in and new weather stripping on the doors had no problem till I reinstalled the doors I cannot get them to close all the way the pin in the hinges has a little play do you think that the weather stripping could be the culprit? as to why the door doesn't close all the way?( the old weather stripping was the original.)
Probably ,move the striker out and shut the it will be tight as the weatherstrip crushes in a few days keep moving it in waiting a day or so till you get it aligned
Excellent explanation! Thank you!
So is tuning nut right moving in or out at bottom?
Can you make a video installing a door start to finish?
Great job
Awesome tutorial...
Thank you probably the best explanation I have found! Do you recommend the door latch hardware/Stryker on to do the adjustments?
I usually leave it on but removing it could be helpful
i backed up with the door open and bent the door too far. the front of the door overlaps the fender , plus the front of the door is hanging noticeably low. i can see the top hinge is bent outward bending it back hasn't fixed the gap. am i better off going to a junk yard and getting a hinger that's not bent than trying to fix these hinges?
I will try to do a video on bending hindges this week so look for it
My kid got hit by someone backing out on the passenger door, he beat the hasp and striker bar so bad and were talking a 40 year old.
I had to replace the whole dam door. So i hung a salvage door on his car i closed it so it was latched then made sure the back was straight never looked at the bottom
, when i was done it looked good all the lines matched up.
One problem when you open it it drops slightly when you close it is raises up slightly but it works so i left it alone. And by the way the bottom is straight also, so im thinking the striker bar is off slightly. But im not going to adjust it. Good enough for government work. Its a 2005 car not a 50 year old collectors car at some point its headed back to a salvage yard anyway.
Hinge pins?
Thank you! Great content
When closed all the way my door stands proud of the rear panel all the way down the rear gap. The front gap is nice and flush. So it looks like the door is not closed all the way.. How to fix that?
Without knowing what kind of car were talking about ,this is a general answer ,it sounds like the door striker needs to be adjusted in
You got my cutoffs on!
Where are you located at? I'm in Ohio...
Springhill Florida
Thanks!👍🙏
thanks so much
Like the commercials "even a caveman can do it".
not many understand to start from qtr , pivotal
Ty
My 66 cadillac’s passenger door is as whole too low.
Got u that X did it
doreskin
Ty