Thanks for that taped on "X" on the door, I haven't seen anyone do that, it's a great visual to keep novices like me remembering what the affects of any move is.
Fascinating and educational. Surely I am about to make my door worse but like you said, little increments and I may have success! Thanks for a great explanation and the X!!
You have explained this the best of anyone ! Thanks so much for sharing, this is very valuable knowledge ! Maybe I can get the gaps more correct on my 68 Camaro now.😊
Excellent information. Thanks for making it. Been wrestling a 88 grand wagoneer door....I think I have made every mistake possible. Have one more. The front door seems more like a truck door hinge. Just need to get the bottom to pull in. I will put me an big "x" on it this weekend and have a beer to help my thinking then try it again...instead of using the drunk monkey technique used on the last three that I just got lucky on and learned nothing ....I learned more in this one video than doing it the 6 times I've attempted it on this jeep...thanks again
so impressed .i over exstended my pu door 2014 gms 1500 . i put new hinges and the top of window frame whistles some air .wasnt sure about rolling window down and useing the block of wood to push it in about a 1/8 of a inch .i will try it .i can pull it in while driving and make the seal so its close . thanks for your instruction teacher ..!!
Great explanation. Bought an E-Bay hinge for my F150 and it did not fit worth a damn. Also forgot to capture the plate inside the cowl. Had a hell of a time. Ending putting the old hinge back on and got real lucky. Fits great. NOT AN EASY JOB!
This was very helpful. If you are replacing a quarter panel would align the door to the rocker panel/front cowl and then align the quarter panel to the door?
Nice tip I will be defenatley using it I'm redoing my 1964 impala 2 door coop ,one question do you have the internal winding mechanism and window in the door when you a line the door or not ,Jack
Great explanation. Moving the top hinge forward will raise the door like you explained. So moving the bottom hinge back should raise the door?? I have an 85 c10 an i just cant get consistent gaps. Top gap along the drip rail is wide it gets worse as you follow door towards the rear of the cab. Top rear gap along the cab is wider than the bottom rear gap. Give me a hard time.
❤ thank you very much Will this apply to 2nd gen f body as well. You make this seem easy. I've been aggravated at passenger side door. I just got my driver side door and window adjusted. I'm putting tape on my door to help me remember the adjustment. Thanks
I have a 1961 Econoline truck I remove the door to put electric windows in and new weather stripping on the doors had no problem till I reinstalled the doors I cannot get them to close all the way the pin in the hinges has a little play do you think that the weather stripping could be the culprit? as to why the door doesn't close all the way?( the old weather stripping was the original.)
Probably ,move the striker out and shut the it will be tight as the weatherstrip crushes in a few days keep moving it in waiting a day or so till you get it aligned
i backed up with the door open and bent the door too far. the front of the door overlaps the fender , plus the front of the door is hanging noticeably low. i can see the top hinge is bent outward bending it back hasn't fixed the gap. am i better off going to a junk yard and getting a hinger that's not bent than trying to fix these hinges?
Man, I'm still a little confused by the X movement. If the striker is still installed then I see the rotational movement on an axis from the striker to the non-moving hinge. Basically making a V with the tape from hinges to the striker. Without the striker installed I would think it would behave like opening an oven door. when you pulled the top out, the entire top of the door would move out and the entire bottom would move in, all pivoting around the lower hinge horizontal axis.
My kid got hit by someone backing out on the passenger door, he beat the hasp and striker bar so bad and were talking a 40 year old. I had to replace the whole dam door. So i hung a salvage door on his car i closed it so it was latched then made sure the back was straight never looked at the bottom , when i was done it looked good all the lines matched up. One problem when you open it it drops slightly when you close it is raises up slightly but it works so i left it alone. And by the way the bottom is straight also, so im thinking the striker bar is off slightly. But im not going to adjust it. Good enough for government work. Its a 2005 car not a 50 year old collectors car at some point its headed back to a salvage yard anyway.
When closed all the way my door stands proud of the rear panel all the way down the rear gap. The front gap is nice and flush. So it looks like the door is not closed all the way.. How to fix that?
Thanks for that taped on "X" on the door, I haven't seen anyone do that, it's a great visual to keep novices like me remembering what the affects of any move is.
Fascinating and educational. Surely I am about to make my door worse but like you said, little increments and I may have success! Thanks for a great explanation and the X!!
That X was the best thing i learned today. Thank you!!!!
No other video on youtube tops this one. Great explanation and thank you
You have explained this the best of anyone ! Thanks so much for sharing, this is very valuable knowledge ! Maybe I can get the gaps more correct on my 68 Camaro now.😊
Excellent video. Glad I ran into it. Don’t need it but I sure learnt something new here.
Years of experience you can tell by his cool and calm explanation.
Thanks great way to explain it so even i could get it.
That was really interesting! I always wondered how you get all 4 sides to match so well.
I know I'm late saying thanks but you really helped
Excellent information. Thanks for making it. Been wrestling a 88 grand wagoneer door....I think I have made every mistake possible. Have one more. The front door seems more like a truck door hinge. Just need to get the bottom to pull in. I will put me an big "x" on it this weekend and have a beer to help my thinking then try it again...instead of using the drunk monkey technique used on the last three that I just got lucky on and learned nothing ....I learned more in this one video than doing it the 6 times I've attempted it on this jeep...thanks again
Thank you for your valuable explanation
so impressed .i over exstended my pu door 2014 gms 1500 . i put new hinges and the top of window frame whistles some air .wasnt sure about rolling window down and useing the block of wood to push it in about a 1/8 of a inch .i will try it .i can pull it in while driving and make the seal so its close . thanks for your instruction teacher ..!!
Thanks for the great instructions! Really good video!
Great explanation. Bought an E-Bay hinge for my F150 and it did not fit worth a damn. Also forgot to capture the plate inside the cowl. Had a hell of a time. Ending putting the old hinge back on and got real lucky. Fits great. NOT AN EASY JOB!
Great video, thank you
Very good explanation on door alignment .
Thanks. Will help re align my cadillac passenger door ✌️
Excellent explanation! Thank you!
This was very helpful. If you are replacing a quarter panel would align the door to the rocker panel/front cowl and then align the quarter panel to the door?
Grate explanation ,thankyou very much
Nice tip I will be defenatley using it I'm redoing my 1964 impala 2 door coop ,one question do you have the internal winding mechanism and window in the door when you a line the door or not ,Jack
Great explanation. Moving the top hinge forward will raise the door like you explained. So moving the bottom hinge back should raise the door??
I have an 85 c10 an i just cant get consistent gaps. Top gap along the drip rail is wide it gets worse as you follow door towards the rear of the cab. Top rear gap along the cab is wider than the bottom rear gap. Give me a hard time.
❤ thank you very much
Will this apply to 2nd gen f body as well. You make this seem easy. I've been aggravated at passenger side door. I just got my driver side door and window adjusted. I'm putting tape on my door to help me remember the adjustment. Thanks
You got my cutoffs on!
Thanks, how do you adjust door latch catch posts, great videos, hope to see more
Thank you! Great content
I have a 1961 Econoline truck I remove the door to put electric windows in and new weather stripping on the doors had no problem till I reinstalled the doors I cannot get them to close all the way the pin in the hinges has a little play do you think that the weather stripping could be the culprit? as to why the door doesn't close all the way?( the old weather stripping was the original.)
Probably ,move the striker out and shut the it will be tight as the weatherstrip crushes in a few days keep moving it in waiting a day or so till you get it aligned
Awesome tutorial...
Great job
Thank you probably the best explanation I have found! Do you recommend the door latch hardware/Stryker on to do the adjustments?
I usually leave it on but removing it could be helpful
Thanks!👍🙏
So is tuning nut right moving in or out at bottom?
Can you make a video installing a door start to finish?
i backed up with the door open and bent the door too far. the front of the door overlaps the fender , plus the front of the door is hanging noticeably low. i can see the top hinge is bent outward bending it back hasn't fixed the gap. am i better off going to a junk yard and getting a hinger that's not bent than trying to fix these hinges?
I will try to do a video on bending hindges this week so look for it
Man, I'm still a little confused by the X movement. If the striker is still installed then I see the rotational movement on an axis from the striker to the non-moving hinge. Basically making a V with the tape from hinges to the striker. Without the striker installed I would think it would behave like opening an oven door. when you pulled the top out, the entire top of the door would move out and the entire bottom would move in, all pivoting around the lower hinge horizontal axis.
thanks so much
My kid got hit by someone backing out on the passenger door, he beat the hasp and striker bar so bad and were talking a 40 year old.
I had to replace the whole dam door. So i hung a salvage door on his car i closed it so it was latched then made sure the back was straight never looked at the bottom
, when i was done it looked good all the lines matched up.
One problem when you open it it drops slightly when you close it is raises up slightly but it works so i left it alone. And by the way the bottom is straight also, so im thinking the striker bar is off slightly. But im not going to adjust it. Good enough for government work. Its a 2005 car not a 50 year old collectors car at some point its headed back to a salvage yard anyway.
When closed all the way my door stands proud of the rear panel all the way down the rear gap. The front gap is nice and flush. So it looks like the door is not closed all the way.. How to fix that?
Without knowing what kind of car were talking about ,this is a general answer ,it sounds like the door striker needs to be adjusted in
Where are you located at? I'm in Ohio...
Springhill Florida
Hinge pins?
Ty
not many understand to start from qtr , pivotal
My 66 cadillac’s passenger door is as whole too low.
Got u that X did it
doreskin