This worked great on my 88 Mustang vert, fox. Saggy door. Got creative with a socket on bottom hinge and it worked just as you showed us! Great hack! Thank you. Will keep this one in my back pocket.
Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done! Just bought a 2007 Chevy Silverado and as I opened the drivers front door I hear a hard crunch screech of sorts. I can see a point about 1/3 up on the front of the door hitting on the rear of the front driver fender. Was going to try to loosen bolts and adjust but this seems very logical and I do have many many sockets. So, front door hitting on bottom 1/3 to front fender, therefore must make go up, therefore must use a socket on lower hinge. I'd worry about my fingers but they have already been destroyed from wrenches breaking torques and my poor fingers crashing into brackets to save the wrench. Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done, Thanks!!!!!
If you need to increase the gap between the front and rear door, are you supposed to lift (support) the door w/Jack Lift a bit? I even don't know, I need to adjust the gaps on a newly installed door, but that door doesn't move forward at all. I don't know what it is, I've released the hinge bolts and tried to move forward (I practically have no gap between the front and rear door), but it doesn't work, it didn't move a single mm. Or I do smth wrong, or the A-pillar was bent till the point that you can't do those adjustments. It doesn't show anything visually, but the front door was damaged badly. Or maybe you need to do it w/support of the Jack Lift. The Fender is off of course. I would appreciate any opinions on this matter. Thank you for the informative film.
Hey i have a 92 Camaro 70k on it, i replaced the weatherstripping two kits fairchild and soff seal. soff seal being somewhat better. not made of the same foam the original was the new stuff is rubber instead of rubber covered foam like the originals. I have now replaced the bottom long pin and bushings with GM parts, and the top two small pins with a dorman kit that bolts together with a lock nut, the top hinges one of the brass bushings was fairly loose, but problem is since ive replaced the weather stripping, i cant get the glass where the a pillar and the triangle weather stripping to come up evenly to level out, i can get the rest of the glass even but not the first part. i had to remove the hinges to replace the pins and cant seem to get the top hinge to move up. even after loosening all the bolts on both top and bottom hinges. I also have replaced the latch with a gm latch, is there something im missing? im thinking that top hinge is just to worn out, the hinge on the door is welded to it and the hinge to the body is bolted. to give some history the drivers side has always been hard to shut, the passenger side is perfect. And when i opened it up it has been messed with before.
Our car was hit at night (in front of the house), and the DS door was bent and jammed till the extend I think to replace it. But it is a question how to remove that door. A large bent is on the central and bottom part with some sharp crevices near the lower hinge. The blow was so strong that the car was moved from the road to the side walk. That hinge is bent from its normal position, and I can't open that door. I thought to apply a braker bar, but after this film think to play around with that lower hinge by lifting or lower the door and try to open it that way. Thank you very much for this informative film.
My problem is the door frame has been bent inward thus making the bottom 2 screw pins that are attached to the door not being straight out at 90 degrees anymore - I will assume I have to try to bang out the frame to straighten the pins from the inside of the door frame itself as opposed to this method you show here?
Just replaced my driver's door that was damaged in an accident and the new door doesn't close all the way (maybe a bent mount). Hopefully this will fix it. Thanks for the video!
i have a 98' olds 88. i backed the door into a post a month ago, right into the door arm rest. the door then overlapped the front fender. so i put the socket in the hinge, because i could see the hinge was bent out a little. it's still not flush to the body like on the other side. the lower hinge has a pin in the way of putting a socket in there. the back of the door is now too close to the back door. the top of the door frame seems right, but the where the window frame meets the windshield, there's about a 3/4 inch gap. i dont even know what to do there. if i cant do it myself the car isn't worth enough to pay a garage, so it'll end up scrappted even though its a clean car.
This worked great on my 88 Mustang vert, fox. Saggy door. Got creative with a socket on bottom hinge and it worked just as you showed us! Great hack! Thank you. Will keep this one in my back pocket.
Awesome instructions
excellent explanation
So glad you made this video. Thank you about to attempt to bend the door myself.
Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done! Just bought a 2007 Chevy Silverado and as I opened the drivers front door I hear a hard crunch screech of sorts. I can see a point about 1/3 up on the front of the door hitting on the rear of the front driver fender. Was going to try to loosen bolts and adjust but this seems very logical and I do have many many sockets. So, front door hitting on bottom 1/3 to front fender, therefore must make go up, therefore must use a socket on lower hinge. I'd worry about my fingers but they have already been destroyed from wrenches breaking torques and my poor fingers crashing into brackets to save the wrench. Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done, Thanks!!!!!
If you need to increase the gap between the front and rear door, are you supposed to lift (support) the door w/Jack Lift a bit? I even don't know, I need to adjust the gaps on a newly installed door, but that door doesn't move forward at all. I don't know what it is, I've released the hinge bolts and tried to move forward (I practically have no gap between the front and rear door), but it doesn't work, it didn't move a single mm. Or I do smth wrong, or the A-pillar was bent till the point that you can't do those adjustments. It doesn't show anything visually, but the front door was damaged badly. Or maybe you need to do it w/support of the Jack Lift. The Fender is off of course. I would appreciate any opinions on this matter. Thank you for the informative film.
Hey i have a 92 Camaro 70k on it, i replaced the weatherstripping two kits fairchild and soff seal. soff seal being somewhat better. not made of the same foam the original was the new stuff is rubber instead of rubber covered foam like the originals.
I have now replaced the bottom long pin and bushings with GM parts, and the top two small pins with a dorman kit that bolts together with a lock nut, the top hinges one of the brass bushings was fairly loose, but problem is since ive replaced the weather stripping, i cant get the glass where the a pillar and the triangle weather stripping to come up evenly to level out, i can get the rest of the glass even but not the first part.
i had to remove the hinges to replace the pins and cant seem to get the top hinge to move up. even after loosening all the bolts on both top and bottom hinges.
I also have replaced the latch with a gm latch, is there something im missing? im thinking that top hinge is just to worn out, the hinge on the door is welded to it and the hinge to the body is bolted.
to give some history the drivers side has always been hard to shut, the passenger side is perfect. And when i opened it up it has been messed with before.
Our car was hit at night (in front of the house), and the DS door was bent and jammed till the extend I think to replace it. But it is a question how to remove that door. A large bent is on the central and bottom part with some sharp crevices near the lower hinge. The blow was so strong that the car was moved from the road to the side walk. That hinge is bent from its normal position, and I can't open that door. I thought to apply a braker bar, but after this film think to play around with that lower hinge by lifting or lower the door and try to open it that way. Thank you very much for this informative film.
My problem is the door frame has been bent inward thus making the bottom 2 screw pins that are attached to the door not being straight out at 90 degrees anymore - I will assume I have to try to bang out the frame to straighten the pins from the inside of the door frame itself as opposed to this method you show here?
Just replaced my driver's door that was damaged in an accident and the new door doesn't close all the way (maybe a bent mount). Hopefully this will fix it. Thanks for the video!
Nice! I know what I'll be doing tomorrow! My Jeep door won't close at all. This should fix me up.
Stupid 50mph wind in Wyoming almost blew my driver door right off and now the hinges are bent I think. 😩😩
My Honda latch will catch & lock onto a screwdriver, but it won’t stay latched to the striker post. Is there a remedy for this? Thanks in advance.
Try adjusting striker out towards door just a little bit
i have a 98' olds 88. i backed the door into a post a month ago, right into the door arm rest. the door then overlapped the front fender. so i put the socket in the hinge, because i could see the hinge was bent out a little. it's still not flush to the body like on the other side. the lower hinge has a pin in the way of putting a socket in there. the back of the door is now too close to the back door. the top of the door frame seems right, but the where the window frame meets the windshield, there's about a 3/4 inch gap. i dont even know what to do there. if i cant do it myself the car isn't worth enough to pay a garage, so it'll end up scrappted even though its a clean car.
realized pushing in on the door with the socket in there has actually caved in the door where it bolts to the hinge