This is a quick video on how I fixed wastegate rattle on my n54 bmw 335xi. I also share some ideas on the oil burn which is related to the turbos. Do at your own risk :)
Hi Pete R! This method should be nice to get that, I just fight my front turbo and get those 2, 8mm there. Rear turbo I got rod adjustments easily done. I have changed all vacuum lines, but I haven't change boost solenoids yet. when bush hard I still got limp mode, yellow motor light, some 30ff code is present and maybe one note was boost solenoid or that got a boost out, maybe one is solenoids in front. I'm not sure what should I have to do next any ideas? I also use very old performance system Procede when it is on that motor light comes easier. Respect your help and good DIY, Ari from Finland
Hi Ari. I would go with vacuum lines, then both solenoids then turbo adjustment. Hope it works for you! Also checking the intake for leaks would make sense. Take care!
@@PeteR-ll3jr Thanks for fast reply Pete R! Okey you think those lines leaks still I changed them, I haven't tide them like you are, I'm quite new all this stuff with n54 but know something. 125 th miles on my car now it's pretty much, turbos go wrong and waste gates rattle. Inlets for turbos are original, but I already change intercooler large one and charge pipe and whole cold side intake lines, the hot side I changed only small pipe between intercooler and pipe which goes turbos intakes. I don't know what you mean turbo adjustment? With some programming possible? Ok I don't have test things and could not make smoke my lines. I check solenoids they kept about 12-13 vacuum or was it 16 oh, but they are original solenoids. Thank for your time!
How do you fix a loud grating grinding sound coming out of your turbos throwing a 30FF code with reduced engine power? You can hear the sound coming out of the exhaust too. It's really loud.
@@PeteR-ll3jr thought you said 8 thought that seems pretty big ahaha, thanks man. I got upgraded twins in it and wastegate came loose after only 7k miles smh.
hello good video, my car was running fine but yesterday I changed the pcv valve because I saw that it smelled burnt, I decided to put a new one take advantage and I put new spark plug and bms high flow filters, and surprise when I started the car it didn't sound the same as before it accelerated and obviously less power and it sounded something like lamineo, and the bov doesn't make the typical noise pst!. With your experience, do you think that the new pcv valve that I put in is related to the problem or was it a coincidence that when I changed all this, something was damaged? I don't know what I should do :(
Hi Luis, sounds like a broken or disconnected vac line to me. But it really could be anything. I'd suggest reading the codes first. But if you messed up with the vac lines when changing the filters it could be causing these issues. Mine did that a few times when the lines cracked in the charge pipe area. The car feels like it's no longer turbocharged when it happens. Good luck man!
@@PeteR-ll3jr thanks, but you know that I checked all the lines and it seems that everything is connected in its place apparently, so I don't know what to do now, what size should the hose be?, and then I erased the codes and ran the car yesterday it feels a bit wrong but no more codes, and another thing when I turned it on I noticed that a little white smoke continued to come out of the back of the engine or maybe a little from the side
good video man, i never saw the washer method for the front turbo .. is that the same as adjusting the actuator arm? These mods solved 30ff for you right? Installing washer in the front of the car looks really hard ... were you doing it all blind?
Thanks. Yes, washer method works the same as arm adjustment. Solved my rattle and 30ff. This is a completely DIY job. You just need to remove the radiator fan and you should be good to go. I used a magnet tool to keep the washers in place but you can also use some glue or sticky tape whichever looks easier for you. Good luck!
Thanks Pete! I am going to do some vacuum testing to see if 30ff is related to my wastegate actuator ... i have 118k highway miles, replace all my vac lines, and solenoid.
@@Jatt_Paji I put 2 washers on each bolt which should equal to around 4mm of arm adjustment. In my case I knew it was probably a loose actuator that was causing a 30ff code as I replaced all the vacuum lines, solenoids and checked all the intake connections.
@@gpins2786 Taking out the fan and inlet plastic pipe was quite enough for me to get there. A ratchet and some extensions did the rest of it. You are taking off the vacuum part of the wg and place washers between it and the turbo housing.
Finally.. a nse method. Nice video im trying this this weekend.
Did it work
Did it work
cw didn’t work for me
Thank you my friend very very helpful 👍
Hi Pete R! This method should be nice to get that, I just fight my front turbo and get those 2, 8mm there. Rear turbo I got rod adjustments easily done. I have changed all vacuum lines, but I haven't change boost solenoids yet. when bush hard I still got limp mode, yellow motor light, some 30ff code is present and maybe one note was boost solenoid or that got a boost out, maybe one is solenoids in front. I'm not sure what should I have to do next any ideas? I also use very old performance system Procede when it is on that motor light comes easier. Respect your help and good DIY, Ari from Finland
Hi Ari. I would go with vacuum lines, then both solenoids then turbo adjustment. Hope it works for you! Also checking the intake for leaks would make sense. Take care!
@@PeteR-ll3jr Thanks for fast reply Pete R! Okey you think those lines leaks still I changed them, I haven't tide them like you are, I'm quite new all this stuff with n54 but know something. 125 th miles on my car now it's pretty much, turbos go wrong and waste gates rattle. Inlets for turbos are original, but I already change intercooler large one and charge pipe and whole cold side intake lines, the hot side I changed only small pipe between intercooler and pipe which goes turbos intakes. I don't know what you mean turbo adjustment? With some programming possible? Ok I don't have test things and could not make smoke my lines. I check solenoids they kept about 12-13 vacuum or was it 16 oh, but they are original solenoids. Thank for your time!
@@ariman60 By turbo adjustment I meant wastegate actuator rod. Keep looking mate. Good luck!
How do you fix a loud grating grinding sound coming out of your turbos throwing a 30FF code with reduced engine power? You can hear the sound coming out of the exhaust too. It's really loud.
just got 30ff and a noise out of my turbos too, it’s not pretty but wouldn’t say it’s grinding. do you have a video?
About to do this this weekend. When you say 2 8mm washers do you mean 2 on each bolt or one in each bolt, thanks.
I put two on each bolt. They are like 1.5mm thick each so I thought 3mm total should make it and it worked.
@@PeteR-ll3jr thought you said 8 thought that seems pretty big ahaha, thanks man. I got upgraded twins in it and wastegate came loose after only 7k miles smh.
@@andrewgislason1816 8mm is a diameter lol. Hope it works out for you!
hello good video, my car was running fine but yesterday I changed the pcv valve because I saw that it smelled burnt, I decided to put a new one take advantage and I put new spark plug and bms high flow filters, and surprise when I started the car it didn't sound the same as before it accelerated and obviously less power and it sounded something like lamineo, and the bov doesn't make the typical noise pst!. With your experience, do you think that the new pcv valve that I put in is related to the problem or was it a coincidence that when I changed all this, something was damaged? I don't know what I should do :(
Hi Luis, sounds like a broken or disconnected vac line to me. But it really could be anything. I'd suggest reading the codes first. But if you messed up with the vac lines when changing the filters it could be causing these issues. Mine did that a few times when the lines cracked in the charge pipe area. The car feels like it's no longer turbocharged when it happens. Good luck man!
@@PeteR-ll3jr thanks, but you know that I checked all the lines and it seems that everything is connected in its place apparently, so I don't know what to do now, what size should the hose be?, and then I erased the codes and ran the car yesterday it feels a bit wrong but no more codes, and another thing when I turned it on I noticed that a little white smoke continued to come out of the back of the engine or maybe a little from the side
good video man, i never saw the washer method for the front turbo .. is that the same as adjusting the actuator arm? These mods solved 30ff for you right? Installing washer in the front of the car looks really hard ... were you doing it all blind?
Thanks. Yes, washer method works the same as arm adjustment. Solved my rattle and 30ff. This is a completely DIY job. You just need to remove the radiator fan and you should be good to go. I used a magnet tool to keep the washers in place but you can also use some glue or sticky tape whichever looks easier for you. Good luck!
Thanks Pete! I am going to do some vacuum testing to see if 30ff is related to my wastegate actuator ... i have 118k highway miles, replace all my vac lines, and solenoid.
@@noname-rv7yh That should be a good start. Replaced mine as well before messing up with the wastegates and found a crack in a canister.
Pete R did you use 1 8mm washler on each bolt and how does this help eliminate wastegate rattle and boost leak ?
@@Jatt_Paji I put 2 washers on each bolt which should equal to around 4mm of arm adjustment. In my case I knew it was probably a loose actuator that was causing a 30ff code as I replaced all the vacuum lines, solenoids and checked all the intake connections.
Is the pin on the rear actuator just held on with a clip?
Hi guy is necessary to fix or i can drive like that i just annoying sound
You can live with the sound as long as there are no errors and your boost is fine.
I have a shit Ton or rattle actually it’s obnoxious is it possible I could need more than 2 8mm before I take on this process ?
Two 8mm should be enough. It's an easy fix taking around 1h so you can always add more washers later on.
Pete R there is no way to get to front turbo I had to drop subframe
@@gpins2786 Taking out the fan and inlet plastic pipe was quite enough for me to get there. A ratchet and some extensions did the rest of it. You are taking off the vacuum part of the wg and place washers between it and the turbo housing.
The rust is reallll asf
True... They use tones of salt on roads every winter.
damn this is a neglected bmw. looks like its in horrible condition.
Based on what you're saying you probably don't know what's going on