I run my 1600 with the flaps wired open and no thermostat. I live in Texas and it runs good (not overwhelming hot) . I like where you are going with this. Sounds like a great deal of research has gone into the optimal angle of each set of flaps. 👍
I live in Corpus Christi Texas and what we need is external oil coolers . About 8 years ago I had to drive to town in 113 degrees I did the if you can hold your dip stick I had no problem . Good video ?
Yep, most high performance engines need them, and I lived in Texas for 14.5 years, and my 2007 cc had an external oil cooler. I am a Setrab dealer, and they have the best external oil coolers on the market, with fans so if you are in traffic, your oil cooler still works. If there is some interest, I may purchase some stock, and have it on the online store.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology What I have is a 71 bus with dp - d-ported heads W 100 cam . When I got the cam from Moore supply they would not sell me a W 120 they said they built a stroked X 92 mm engine that had a W 120 in it . when the customer picked it up and he left and came right back yelling what did yall do with my brakes ! On buses with brake boosters you gotta watch what your doing.????? I just got back from the store and while I was driving there was a Stutz Bearcat VW replica car .It was really cool .As soon as it passed me I saw the pee shooters ....................
@@jimmywilkinson9190 Yes, the brake booster runs off of engine vacuum. So, longer duration cams shafts lower the engine vacuum, and then brake booster stops working. They introduced the power brakes in '71, as you probably know. What you can do though, is you can install an electric vacuum pump and run the vacuum line from that to the brake booster, and remove the engine vacuum line.
While I appreciate that your fixed flaps offer a solution to those whose original flaps are missing, given all the experimentation you have done, is there any compelling reason for those of us in warmer climates with original flaps to lock them in the open position? I understand doing so would protect against the potentially catastrophic results should the flaps and/or thermostat fail to function properly (accepting the potential downside of slow warmup in cooler weather).
Actually, if you have the original flaps and the thermostat fails the system is fail safe. When the original thermostat fails it will be pulled by the spring to the full open position. Now, if you don't have a thermostat you can either tac weld them open, or just maintain the system with the spring in place and they'll stay fully open. There is one caveat, which is if you no longer have the original style thermostat but instead have the Mexican and/or Brazilian style ones they will not fail in the open position. I'm not sure why the designed them that way, but the did remove a safety feature. Perhaps they felt the new style thermostat was so reliable that it was not an issue. I have used them and never had a failure and I've never heard of them failing either. My solution is really just targeted at engines that either don't or can't run the thermostat. For example, certain exhaust systems use shorter tubing and the pass directly underneath the pushrod tubes making impossible to run the thermostat and even prevent you from using the lower tin.
Thank you so much for that…I didn’t realize the spring acted as a failsafe. Those German engineers were some pretty smart cookies. On a different note, how are things coming with your hub issues and production issues with your lightweight fan? My engine is out now and I’d sure like to upgrade the fan before I put it back together.
@@gutshotgriz3936 Hey, no problem. Always happy to help. As I have developed products I have learned so much. In terms of the fan, I have an all new design I'm calling the Lightweight Cooling Fan NG ("Next Generation). You can see my blog posts on the subject here: www.andrigsaircooledtechnology.com/post/next-generation-lightweight-cooling-fan-part-1 www.andrigsaircooledtechnology.com/post/next-generation-lightweight-cooling-fan-part-2 www.andrigsaircooledtechnology.com/post/next-generation-lightweight-cooling-fan-part-3 I should have them available on Monday, if things continue to go well with production of the backing plates. I'm really happy with their performance, and they are even lighter by a little more than 10%. They come with a special inner backing plate, and all the mounting stuff that needed, and they do require an alternator for installation. The mounting hardware will not work with a generator.
@@gutshotgriz3936 I don't have any plans to make a mounting system that works with a generator, because there simply aren't enough people running generators anymore. Alternator's are so much better, and they are inexpensive and readily available. It's unfortunate that the alternators and generators are different in that regard. Sorry about that.
Sure, people do it all the time. This product is really for those that don't want the flaps for thermostatic control, but should have something there for the air directional control. Some people don't realize that the flaps serve two purposes.
Well, I'm sorry you didn't get anything out of this that was useful. The experiment was for the development of a new product that I released last December. I would also say that VW engines are a lot more complex than people realize. The thermostactically controlled flaps are a case in point. They serve two functions. The first, and most obvious, is that they help the engine reach normal operating temperature, and stay at that temperature. Secondarily, they direct the air flow to the most critical areas of the engine. The air cooling system is very complex, and involves different engineering disciplines. One of which is the fluid dynamics of the air flow through the fan shroud.
My '64 did not come with flaps. Had an air horn. Very little heat to the car until the therm. opened up. Flaps gave you heat to the car even when engine was cold. Warm climate, remove them. Not needed.
Great job and an outstanding idea for a product. I wish you the very best of success!
I have released the product some time ago. Thanks.
I run my 1600 with the flaps wired open and no thermostat. I live in Texas and it runs good (not overwhelming hot) . I like where you are going with this. Sounds like a great deal of research has gone into the optimal angle of each set of flaps. 👍
Yeah, it has been selling quite well. A lot of people don't have the original flaps anymore.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology fantastic! I will pick myself up some next time I find that I'm missing my flaps.
I live in Corpus Christi Texas and what we need is external oil coolers . About 8 years ago I had to drive to town in 113 degrees I did the if you can hold your dip stick I had no problem . Good video ?
Yep, most high performance engines need them, and I lived in Texas for 14.5 years, and my 2007 cc had an external oil cooler. I am a Setrab dealer, and they have the best external oil coolers on the market, with fans so if you are in traffic, your oil cooler still works. If there is some interest, I may purchase some stock, and have it on the online store.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology What I have is a 71 bus with dp - d-ported heads W 100 cam . When I got the cam from Moore supply they would not sell me a W 120 they said they built a stroked X 92 mm engine that had a W 120 in it . when the customer picked it up and he left and came right back yelling what did yall do with my brakes ! On buses with brake boosters you gotta watch what your doing.????? I just got back from the store and while I was driving there was a Stutz Bearcat VW replica car .It was really cool .As soon as it passed me I saw the pee shooters ....................
@@jimmywilkinson9190 Yes, the brake booster runs off of engine vacuum. So, longer duration cams shafts lower the engine vacuum, and then brake booster stops working. They introduced the power brakes in '71, as you probably know. What you can do though, is you can install an electric vacuum pump and run the vacuum line from that to the brake booster, and remove the engine vacuum line.
While I appreciate that your fixed flaps offer a solution to those whose original flaps are missing, given all the experimentation you have done, is there any compelling reason for those of us in warmer climates with original flaps to lock them in the open position? I understand doing so would protect against the potentially catastrophic results should the flaps and/or thermostat fail to function properly (accepting the potential downside of slow warmup in cooler weather).
Actually, if you have the original flaps and the thermostat fails the system is fail safe. When the original thermostat fails it will be pulled by the spring to the full open position. Now, if you don't have a thermostat you can either tac weld them open, or just maintain the system with the spring in place and they'll stay fully open. There is one caveat, which is if you no longer have the original style thermostat but instead have the Mexican and/or Brazilian style ones they will not fail in the open position. I'm not sure why the designed them that way, but the did remove a safety feature. Perhaps they felt the new style thermostat was so reliable that it was not an issue. I have used them and never had a failure and I've never heard of them failing either. My solution is really just targeted at engines that either don't or can't run the thermostat. For example, certain exhaust systems use shorter tubing and the pass directly underneath the pushrod tubes making impossible to run the thermostat and even prevent you from using the lower tin.
Thank you so much for that…I didn’t realize the spring acted as a failsafe. Those German engineers were some pretty smart cookies.
On a different note, how are things coming with your hub issues and production issues with your lightweight fan? My engine is out now and I’d sure like to upgrade the fan before I put it back together.
@@gutshotgriz3936 Hey, no problem. Always happy to help. As I have developed products I have learned so much. In terms of the fan, I have an all new design I'm calling the Lightweight Cooling Fan NG ("Next Generation). You can see my blog posts on the subject here: www.andrigsaircooledtechnology.com/post/next-generation-lightweight-cooling-fan-part-1 www.andrigsaircooledtechnology.com/post/next-generation-lightweight-cooling-fan-part-2 www.andrigsaircooledtechnology.com/post/next-generation-lightweight-cooling-fan-part-3 I should have them available on Monday, if things continue to go well with production of the backing plates. I'm really happy with their performance, and they are even lighter by a little more than 10%. They come with a special inner backing plate, and all the mounting stuff that needed, and they do require an alternator for installation. The mounting hardware will not work with a generator.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology Had no plans of replacing my generator. I’m happy to wait if you have plans for a generator compatible version.
@@gutshotgriz3936 I don't have any plans to make a mounting system that works with a generator, because there simply aren't enough people running generators anymore. Alternator's are so much better, and they are inexpensive and readily available. It's unfortunate that the alternators and generators are different in that regard. Sorry about that.
where do sell these?
I have them on my online store here: andrigs.com/
Can you run without flaps?
Sure, people do it all the time. This product is really for those that don't want the flaps for thermostatic control, but should have something there for the air directional control. Some people don't realize that the flaps serve two purposes.
Yes. They are restrictive also.
This is not informative at all. Most people do not understand a word of this, vw motors are simple, this video is not....
Well, I'm sorry you didn't get anything out of this that was useful. The experiment was for the development of a new product that I released last December. I would also say that VW engines are a lot more complex than people realize. The thermostactically controlled flaps are a case in point. They serve two functions. The first, and most obvious, is that they help the engine reach normal operating temperature, and stay at that temperature. Secondarily, they direct the air flow to the most critical areas of the engine. The air cooling system is very complex, and involves different engineering disciplines. One of which is the fluid dynamics of the air flow through the fan shroud.
My '64 did not come with flaps. Had an air horn. Very little heat to the car until the therm. opened up. Flaps gave you heat to the car even when engine was cold. Warm climate, remove them. Not needed.
Not everyone possess an engineering mindset. It’s OK…the world needs fry cooks too.