May I ask if you’ve tried using a small gun drill to extend the oil passage? Obviously the drill walking in a concern and the cost of a gun drill is quite high but they can be
Thanks a lot for openness sharing with others FOC! Now I did 2 cases very successfully the 3rd I went too far through the back;what's the harm running the motor with the hole(drilling) running thru the back? Once again many thanks for the mod sharing. Respectfully yours, Felix.
15:12 I was thinking, and is my humble opinion: the design of the lifter’s grooves have the simple porpoise of deliver pressurized oil to the rocker arms in a timed fashion, when the cam elevates the lifter, the groove in the lifter match the oil supply in the lifter bore, at the same time, the pushrod pushes the rocker arm and all the gaps turn to zero and the pressurized oil reaches the fulcrum of the rocker arm. And, when the cam release the lifter down, the groove in the lifter aligns with the oil gallery letting the free pass of the oil to the next lifter bore… that is my opinion. Saludos and keep up whit your great job!!
you are correct. there are errors of fact in hoovers blog that are being repeated in this vid. start with the 8% oil supply. it's pretty easy to show that that's a complete steaming pile from the back end of a horse. don't forget that since the pushrod is in motion that the oil in the pushrod will try run out the back of the rod during initial valve lift off the seat and upon returning to the seat. at these times the oil tries to run backwards through the tube and the vw engineers knew this and purposely built the lifter with the 2 rings or bands. cut channels in the lifter and you break a carefully engineered oiling system because some hack in the 50's decided this was the thing to do. hoover has some good info in his blog but this mod isn't worth the time it took me to read about it. you should sub to my channel as i'm putting together a scathing review of this mod. i should have it posted sometime in the next few days to a week.
Hi , great report, followed your spec perfectly on two cases, no dramas, however on a Mexico as41 case went through the case, noted the oil galley descended from first cam follower to the next and so forth, about 4mm from front to back. And as such drilled through outer case. Worth checking this first, if the galley is not straight, it cannot be drilled successfully! Great video btw
Yeah, that is exactly what happens. It can go the other way too, where the drilling rises and you drill out on the inside of the case. That way is easier to fix since you can reach it with a TIG torch. It is easy to measure with a milling machine to see if you will drill through the side of the case, but not everyone has access to one. I have not figured out an easy way for a home gamer to verify before drilling. BTW - If you want to save the Mexi case, let me know and we can get you a price.
We have plans to do a couple videos on initial start-up and tuning an engine, but I think we are going to finish the build series first. We will make sure to keep that in mind when we get there though! Keep the ideas coming.
For those that dont know. Do not put synthetic oil in your air cooled motor. Synthetic does not pick up heat and release it like conventional oil. It does not suffer from thermal breakdown. So even though you may have a good oil temp your heads could be over heating. Gene Berg wrote a paper about this.
Excellent video friend, I send you greetings from Paraguay, could you guide me what types of bits to use the long, how many CM does it have and what size would it be?
Great video. I've heard the blocks made in Germany were stronger than the Mexican-made ones. If true, that means there are practically none of the German cases left.
Very cool video. Everything was presented in a way that was highly informative without boring one to death with details. Ive been around the VW scene since the late 70’s but never heard much on this mod, although it makes perfect sense in a very straightforward way. Could you be so kind as to supply a link to Mr. Hoover’s blog?
Hello. I would like to know if you could authorize me to use your video on my channel to explain in more detail how the VW aircooled engine works. I'm from Brazil and unfortunately most people who are interested in the topic don't know how to speak English.
Note Magnesium burns as if has it's own oxygen content. NEVER put H2O ( water ) on a magnesium fire. It makes it burn better. You have to smother the fire. The burning magnesium is very bright.
I have a Brazilian VW case that I converted to full flow. First engine start blew up the oil cooler. Second engine start blew out the oil filter gasket. In trying to diagnose the high oil pressure, I took out the rear pressure relief valve and still had over 100 psi. I finally found a Berg pressure relief pump cover that fixed the problem. My question is, why are the oil pressures so high to begin with. My engine is not making metal.
I've not see an engine produce that much pressure. But with no details, it would be really hard to say what might be wrong. Make sure you are not running oil that is too thick. Many guys will run 20/50, but I personally run SAE 30 in my VW motors. Make sure the pump is not too large. There is absolutely no reason to run anything larger than a 26mm pump on the street if you blueprint the pump.
Nice to see guy's putting some thought into solving a problem..! I can see where moving more oil through the heads can be a plus. Just curious as to whether you had documented the difference in oil flow from one side vs the other and did the modification bring them closer to being equal. Two things I did pay particular attention too, and that was the cylinder bore and the align bore. That appears to be bored for 94's and if I'm wrong it's a moot point, but have you ever considered step boring the holes to leave more material for at least the lower portion of the hole.? The other question is concerning the align boring; know that that case being a used case and knowing that after repeated run/heat cycles, there will be a certain amount of molecular movement. This is where the question come in..! Let me first say that it appears to be an excellent job of machine work, and I'm sure the bore of the housing is correct but how do you address the thrust. I have set an indicator to the inside of the case where the lip of the thrust bearing saddles over and I have always found that to have runout. I have a Truline Bar that I machined an eccentric with a carbide tool ( installed on my .020 ) bar and after I cut the housing I have a setup to clean a few thousands on the inside of the case to make it perpendicular to the centerline. I have another tool I made to then to cut the thrust to allow for a .001 press fit for the thrust and that I have found brings the case back to new spec. Have you found a better way to do this operation. Without the cleanup on the inside, there is no way to get a uniform press on the thrust around the entire circumference.
I liked your comments and I do the same. I have a Mainliner and when I do the thrust cut I also clean up the thrust shoulder on the inside of the case. It only takes about .003/.005 and then I cut the rest from the front side. Best Wishes.
Wow, that is too funny. We just did that last night and the plan was to film it but we ran out of time. We have another motor that is ready to be mocked up though, so we will film it in the next couple weeks. Fair warning though, it does take some specialized tools. Most are easy to make, but it is often cheaper to just have your local shop do it for you if you don't plan to do more than 1 or 2 of them. Videos are posted to Patreon first. For early access, visit www.patreon.com/VintageVolks
I'm surprised the factory never figured this out and just had the blocks cast with the Hoover mods- or that these are not stock mods on aftermarket blocks by now. They're such simple and obvious solutions to a problem.
They did figure it out and Incorporated these changes into the Type-IV motor. VW also never put a filter on the Type-1 motor, at least not the German made ones, despite the fact that most cars had oil filters starting in the 60s. That is another modification that is easy to make and solves a real problem.
I disagree .. hoover, for the most part ... was just solutions looking for problems. Hoover did absolutely zero tests to confirm that his mids worked ... of which, in fact, none actually did ! But original vw engines, with regular oil changes .. often lasted 500, 000 miles, and dealerships handed out watches and pins for such occasions. Sooo ... where were these "problems" to begin with ?
I ran with no valve covers this week. Almost no oil drips off the rocker assembly ! Hot engine, fresh oil, various revs for 5 minutes, up to 3000rpm. And you are lucky to see a drip every 15 seconds ! And that makes sense, as there just isn't enough gap for oil to flow. What bearings run on is a thing called static pressure. Lots of oil pressure and little flow. Thats exactly what bearing need ! You'd need at least a .004" bearing gap for any kind of oil flow. We don't have that around the rocker arms. We have about .001" gap = almost zero oil flow. One thing the vw engine has .. is the lifters and pushrods. Between the shaking actions of the hollow push-rods, and trapping of the oil .. you get breif spikes oil pressure ... up into the thousands of psi in the pushrods. That ton of psi is exactly what protects your lifter bores, exactly when they need it. Oh, and grinding that groove between the two oil rings ... destroys that high oil pressure, leaving you with worn lifter bores, and compromised rocker lubrication.
@DonziGT230 Hoover was a dolt who knew nothing about engines or lubrication. Hoover did absolutely zero documentation before or after his mods. Or he would have realized he was chasing the wrong theory. All linear bearing rely on static pressure ... not increased flow ! Hoover mistakenly thought linear bearings, like our crank, cam, lifters, and rockers .. needed more oil flow. They don't ! Increased flow does nothing .. as linear bearings are designed for static pressure because of the bearing's .001" gap .. Those style of bearings .. rey rely on a tight oil restriction as it's basis for lubrication. Hoover mods are a joke, and people are still laughing ... Every hoov-mod destroys pressure, and more flow is never ever going to happen. Well ... it will happen, as his mods will ruin your engine, as every hoov-mod decreases pressure. BTW.. vw oil pressure is governed by the front oil pressure relief valve. Vw engine oil psi ... is dependent upon that Spring. P.S. .... larger oil pumps .. only cause more oil pressure, and more oil pressure, depresses the oil by-pass valve... and that diverts oil from your oil cooler ... creating .. an even more hotter engine. Hoover was a fool who chased the wrong oil bearing theory. The vw oil pump is a static pressure pump ..not a high flow volumetric impeller style pump ... All these hoover mods .. will ruin your vw engine ! All Hoov-mods .. are a fools errand ! 🎉
Finally a video explaining how to do hoover mods properly!! Nice video, I'm waiting to see which are the stock rocker mods. I will do every mod on my next engine build (1968cc) Does the stock oil cooler work well with this mods or a external oil cooler is needed? Thanks a lot and keep posting this kind of videos!!
Thanks Alberto! We'll see what we can do about posting a video withe the modifications to the stock rockers. It's much more involved, so it really warrants its own video just on the rockers. Make sure to subscribe and click the notification bell so you know when we get it posted. The stock oil cooler is plenty. As long as your cooling tin is all installed correctly and you have a properly functioning thermostat, there is usually no need for an external cooler, at least for a naturally aspirated street motor.
Brilliant relevant info,would you carry out this mod if using standard rocker gear ?..Any mod removing heat from the heads is warranted though I guess..
I'm not sure what you mean by "standard rocker gear" but yes, we do these mods on stock through performance with straight cut (which we don't use much) and factory mag cam gears.
Very cool mods. Questions. Have you noticed any difference in oil pressure at idle and up to operating temp? And, on the new Auto Linea Aluminum cases, do you perform the same mods? Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I bet the grooves on the lifter bodies help keep those bores from getting scarred
Great video! I'm guessing because of the displacement for this engine, full blown mods like this are almost a must. What about for a seasonal daily driver. I have the original HO case from my 67 1500. I want to just build it up to maybe 1641. What oil cooling mods would you suggest...if any. I live in Wyoming so she's not driven during Winter and our climate rarely gets too 100 in Summer. Thanks!
We do these mods on all engines we build from stock to 2332cc. You can not have too much oil to the heads. The lack of oil in the factory design causes extra ware on the rockers in particular. It also allows more heat to build up in the springs which causes them to soften or fail earlier as well.
Interesting, now I am even more like that illustration by John Muir where the guy reads about his engine and is wide awake at night thinking about what he read/saw...If you are staying stock, would you still do the oil galley mods ?
Yes, we do the mods on stock engines all the time. Its all about heat removal and lubrication in the heads. That will help your stock motor last longer as well.
NIce Vid! Is there any information comparing temps and oil volumes on 1&2? Does the trajectory of the rockerarm groove have to point directly towards the pad and why not do both sides of the arm? Any precautions necessary on aluminum cases with regards to drilling the galleys? Could you show the mods near the oil pump on a prepped case please? Thanks a lot!
Bob did a bunch of research on temps and volumes. That information is available on his blog still. Yes, you want that grove to point at or just below the pad, to spray the spring and valve stem. If you look at the way the rocker fits, putting a groove on the other side will not spray anything but the casting itself. The Super Cases can be drilled in exactly the same way. I'm not sure what you mean when you want to see the mods near the pump. Are you talking about tapping the galleries for full flow? That is nothing more then running a tap in the pump body and in the case itself. It really has nothing to do with the Hover Mods.
Grest video and excellent explanation. A minor correction. The correct word is oil "galley" not gallery. Unless you have miniature paintings inside the engine case.
Actually, its not an oil galley. A galley is a kitchen on a ship. You are not the only one to correct me on this, many people incorrectly call them a galley. www.automotivedictionary.org/Oil_gallery
Es posible que en un motor stroker 1745 cc presente sobre dimensionamiento de la medida de la bancada en el bloque de manera súbita(en 800 km de funcionamiento) el bloque es un AS41?
Did Hoover ever mention that worn out lifter bores are responsible for low oil pressure? The factory didn't leave out the Hoover mods for cost. The biggest problem today are people who use old worn out and tweaked cases
That is very true, your engine must be within spec to maintain oil pressure. That does not change the fact that the oil system on a type-1 based case has some limitations that are very easy to overcome. Doing these modifications will not lower your oil pressure, as long as your pump will deliver enough oil after the modifications are made.
Am i to understand that we dont modify the center cam bearing ? just the case behind the bearing..? And i wonder if this will cause an increased oil quantity in the valve cover and possibly oil up the valve cover breather hose. ?
That is correct, you only modify the web and not the bearing. It will absolutely cause more oil in the valve covers, that is the whole point. That oil will flow through the pushrod tubes back to the sump carrying a bunch of heat with it. As long as the breather hoses in the valve covers are in the top corners, you will not see any issues with oil getting in the tubes.
Your description of the lifter oil supply mod is misleading. You see (using your numbers), 8% of the time the lifter / pushrod is in motion and 92% it is stationary. So why would you need to supply oil to the lifter pushrod that isn't moving 92% of the time? That does not appear to be a needed mod.
We have found that most cases have enough material to drill them out. But if I don't warn people and someone drills through the side of the case, they come screaming mad at us. When we do drill through, we have mag filer rod, so we TIG weld it back up, no big deal. For the home gamer, Alumaweld may work but I really have no idea. It would have to seal at some pretty good pressures.
When setting up the lifter, is there a reason you don’t just drill another hole in the second groove like the one has. If fear of oil pressure drop would be the issue, maybe half the diameter or so. Thoughts?
If you look at the grooves on the side of the lifter compared to the cup inside the lifter that accepts the push rod, you will see that the second groove is in the wrong location and you cannot drill a hole. It will simply create an internal oil leak and not send oil out the push rod to the head.
When you line bore a block - What is ur bearing crush clearance ? Example - O.D. of bearing is - 2.600 What would cutters be set to ?? Same # Or a couple thou smaller.
@Jason Estes - thank you !!! Several show the cutting - but no-one shows the set up or gives specs !!! Probably because it be like asking what type of oil - blah blah blah !! Thanks again !!!
When you line bore a case, is it also wise to mill the mating surfaces of the two halves of the case the same amount of material as the line boring removed?
You tap it to accept a 1/16" NPT plug. I like to use steel plugs with red Loctite so you can get them out. I find that the heads on the aluminum plugs strip to easily. Some people don't like the steel plugs because of the lack of thermal expansion and in theory they could leak. I have not seen that issue myself.
The galleries in the lifter bores are already large enough to carry all the oil that can be delivered to them by the feeder passages. I've never had the need to make them bigger. Might be an interesting test though. I'll have to put together a junk motor just to try that out.
@@VintageVolks Well, I ended up increasing it here on the motor on the side of the frame where the work is done for the oil circulation of the command in my vw1600. I will use a 30mm oil pump the original was 26mm.. let's see what happens
"Crook's VW". It is a joke. It's your local VW mechanic that does a shitty job and charges you way too much for it. It is not any one particular shop, but every town has one.
my oil pressure is great when the engine is cold but when it heats up the oil pressure goes down to less than 10lbs . What could be causing this ? how do I check the pressure relief valve for proper operation ?
There are a lot of things that could cause that issue. From the wrong oil, to warn main bearings. There are specifications for the pressure relief and oil control springs. I believe they can be found in the Without Guesswork books. You have to measure the spring pressure at a particular height and then compare it against the spec.
Plug the outlet side of the oil pump so oil is forced out the pump cover and to the filter. But, you also need to plug the matching gallery in the case so when oil returns to the case it cannot leak between the pump body and the case causing a drop in oil pressure at idle. Motors that do not have both passages plugged can, but do not always, have a dim or flickering oil pressure warning light at a hot idle.
What do you mean by "the pad side of the engine?" Are you asking if you could split your return line and have a direct line into the 1/2 side of the case? If so, the answer is no. There is no gallery end in the pully side of the case and no way to get a line between the flywheel and the case to inject oil in that end of the gallery. Going around the cam and enlarging those galleries is the best way we have found.
Why would you use a mag case instead of a new purpose built aluminum performance case. Has anyone ever cut windows into valve cover and a case and spun the motor to see if it works or how much difference it makes in the lubrication system.
We are still doing machine work. We have been so busy in the shop, we have not had time to make videos. Check out our website for prices. vintagevolks.com/
You can do this without doing full flow but I would never do that. An oil filter will extend the life of your engine greatly. It will way offset the cost of doing the modification.
It's a joke. It is your local VW shop that does not know what they are doing and they charge you for things you don't need. It is not any one specific shop, but every town has at least 1. :)
@Robie Billy I'm currently trying to figure out how to adapt a VW air cooled to a Porsche auto.. without spending 6k I don't have. It'd be great to have an automatic bug because my hip and back just can't stand a clutch in traffic anymore.
Price varies according to car, there were bugs and ghias made from factory with autostick. I had a ‘69 bug with one, currently own a ‘70 bug autostick. They’re getting a little harder to find due to many being converted to 4 speed. Check the classifieds on TheSamba website look under 1968 and up type 1 cars and search “autostick” and “automatic stick shift”
No, the aluminum cases do not have these modifications made to them. We do them on both the factory style aluminum cases as well as the bubble top/super cases.
We use the 26mm pump for street motors. 30mm is over kill and if your pressure relief and bypass valves are not setup correctly, you can have a situation where your oil bypasses the cooler even when it's hot. That is not a good place to be. It does not happen all the time, but the risk is there.
It is called Touch DRO from Yuriy's Toys. The head is an Android based tablet. We opted for one of Yuriy's pre-built readers and the stainless digital scales. It is a nice system. Has more features than the Sony that came on the mill and I have found the accuracy and repeatability to be as good as the mill itself.
They are AA rockers and yes we have had good luck with them. The only issue we have ever seen is one adjuster screw broke on a customer, but he is VERY hard on his stuff so I can't say it was a manufacturing defect.
I am going to need some serious help trying to build a super Street motor want to come out to California and race I do not have a car so I figure I will start with the motor. Also have a German case. ItWas the motor my old boss built had a Berg crank and jet rods slipper skirt 88’s and FK 89 had some of jeans heads on it also I prepped the car for 15 years when I worked for a scooter every time we raced it he got a new girlfriend and we stop racing together anyway he called me out of the blue we went and raced the car turns out he forgot to put oil in it it did not go very far lol OK still looks good but the lifter Boars or sloppy and need to be bushed. I will have to tell you the sharpie story one day lol when I worked for Brad Anderson my first day we had a serious thrash in the pits and Randy asked me to hand him the marks a lot did Know what he was talking about. I didn’t know some guys in California called the magic markers also lol
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Have you tried balancing / blue printing the rocker arms (making sure they all weighted the same)?
May I ask if you’ve tried using a small gun drill to extend the oil passage? Obviously the drill walking in a concern and the cost of a gun drill is quite high but they can be
Thanks for sharing! These are the mods old timers take to the grave 🤟🏼
They are for sure. Good thing Bob had the good sense to write down as much as he did.
Thanks a lot for openness sharing with others FOC! Now I did 2 cases very successfully the 3rd I went too far through the back;what's the harm running the motor with the hole(drilling) running thru the back?
Once again many thanks for the mod sharing.
Respectfully yours,
Felix.
This is propably the most usefull video on subject that I have seen do far.
Thanks. We plan to shoot the video on mods to the stock rockers tomorrow, so keep an eye out for that one!
I really like the Mod you are doing to the Oil Galery
Definitely, this is a different advanced technology, modifying and improving yesterday’s technology.
I'm way past rebuilding VWs anymore, but this was superb!
15:12 I was thinking, and is my humble opinion: the design of the lifter’s grooves have the simple porpoise of deliver pressurized oil to the rocker arms in a timed fashion, when the cam elevates the lifter, the groove in the lifter match the oil supply in the lifter bore, at the same time, the pushrod pushes the rocker arm and all the gaps turn to zero and the pressurized oil reaches the fulcrum of the rocker arm. And, when the cam release the lifter down, the groove in the lifter aligns with the oil gallery letting the free pass of the oil to the next lifter bore… that is my opinion. Saludos and keep up whit your great job!!
you are correct. there are errors of fact in hoovers blog that are being repeated in this vid. start with the 8% oil supply. it's pretty easy to show that that's a complete steaming pile from the back end of a horse. don't forget that since the pushrod is in motion that the oil in the pushrod will try run out the back of the rod during initial valve lift off the seat and upon returning to the seat. at these times the oil tries to run backwards through the tube and the vw engineers knew this and purposely built the lifter with the 2 rings or bands. cut channels in the lifter and you break a carefully engineered oiling system because some hack in the 50's decided this was the thing to do. hoover has some good info in his blog but this mod isn't worth the time it took me to read about it. you should sub to my channel as i'm putting together a scathing review of this mod. i should have it posted sometime in the next few days to a week.
Scotty is right on the money ... never grind that connecting groove, or 3 ... lol, it's such a bad idea ...
Very informative. Those cutaways are very cool to see
What can I say, I had a junk case and I was bored in the shop one night. :)
Hi , great report, followed your spec perfectly on two cases, no dramas, however on a Mexico as41 case went through the case, noted the oil galley descended from first cam follower to the next and so forth, about 4mm from front to back. And as such drilled through outer case. Worth checking this first, if the galley is not straight, it cannot be drilled successfully! Great video btw
Yeah, that is exactly what happens. It can go the other way too, where the drilling rises and you drill out on the inside of the case. That way is easier to fix since you can reach it with a TIG torch. It is easy to measure with a milling machine to see if you will drill through the side of the case, but not everyone has access to one. I have not figured out an easy way for a home gamer to verify before drilling.
BTW - If you want to save the Mexi case, let me know and we can get you a price.
Here's an idea for a new video, that no one on UA-cam has done yet. Install a wideband kit on a vw bug street car.
We have plans to do a couple videos on initial start-up and tuning an engine, but I think we are going to finish the build series first. We will make sure to keep that in mind when we get there though! Keep the ideas coming.
For those that dont know.
Do not put synthetic oil in your air cooled motor.
Synthetic does not pick up heat and release it like conventional oil.
It does not suffer from thermal breakdown.
So even though you may have a good oil temp your heads could be over heating.
Gene Berg wrote a paper about this.
Great tip. I was told that it’s a good idea to use synthetic oil during engine assembly though…. For lubing internals and valve train, etc
Thanks a lot. Just scrapped a case doing this. Mexico cases are thinner and can not be drilled.
Which side of the case did you drill through? Both sides can be fixed, but the inside is much easier than the outside.
Excellent video friend, I send you greetings from Paraguay, could you guide me what types of bits to use the long, how many CM does it have and what size would it be?
Hello my friend.....I am following hour vídeos from Brazil.....nice vídeos. Thanks.
Great video. I've heard the blocks made in Germany were stronger than the Mexican-made ones. If true, that means there are practically none of the German cases left.
Very cool video. Everything was presented in a way that was highly informative without boring one to death with details.
Ive been around the VW scene since the late 70’s but never heard much on this mod, although it makes perfect sense in a very straightforward way. Could you be so kind as to supply a link to Mr. Hoover’s blog?
I have added a link in the description. Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Hello. I would like to know if you could authorize me to use your video on my channel to explain in more detail how the VW aircooled engine works. I'm from Brazil and unfortunately most people who are interested in the topic don't know how to speak English.
much easier to understand that in the charts
more videos please...can you show cleaning, head work, connecting rod reconditioning, crankshaft work...?
If we get back to doing videos anytime soon, we will keep these topics in mind. Thanks for the suggestions.
Very interesting and informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Nice to see before/after temperatures oil pressures...
That is a very good idea. We'll put it on the list and do before and after with head temps as well.
Note Magnesium burns as if has it's own oxygen content. NEVER put H2O ( water ) on a magnesium fire. It makes it burn better. You have to smother the fire. The burning magnesium is very bright.
I have a Brazilian VW case that I converted to full flow. First engine start blew up the oil cooler. Second engine start blew out the oil filter gasket. In trying to diagnose the high oil pressure, I took out the rear pressure relief valve and still had over 100 psi. I finally found a Berg pressure relief pump cover that fixed the problem. My question is, why are the oil pressures so high to begin with. My engine is not making metal.
I've not see an engine produce that much pressure. But with no details, it would be really hard to say what might be wrong. Make sure you are not running oil that is too thick. Many guys will run 20/50, but I personally run SAE 30 in my VW motors. Make sure the pump is not too large. There is absolutely no reason to run anything larger than a 26mm pump on the street if you blueprint the pump.
Very Kool video !!
I have a couple junk cases I might have to try that on !!!
Some know-it-all somewhere is watching this, thinking "yup that's fkd". 🤣😂
Those clamps on the rod cap surface is killing me lmfao hope there’s some brass between them
Wonderful camera work
Undoubtedly, but, definitely, experience pays.
When will the video for the stock style rockers be published? Thank you very much for posting this, GREAT info.
We've been super busy with family and other projects. It is definitely on the short list though.
Nice to see guy's putting some thought into solving a problem..! I can see where moving more oil through the heads can be a plus. Just curious as to whether you had documented the difference in oil flow from one side vs the other and did the modification bring them closer to being equal. Two things I did pay particular attention too, and that was the cylinder bore and the align bore. That appears to be bored for 94's and if I'm wrong it's a moot point, but have you ever considered step boring the holes to leave more material for at least the lower portion of the hole.? The other question is concerning the align boring; know that that case being a used case and knowing that after repeated run/heat cycles, there will be a certain amount of molecular movement. This is where the question come in..! Let me first say that it appears to be an excellent job of machine work, and I'm sure the bore of the housing is correct but how do you address the thrust. I have set an indicator to the inside of the case where the lip of the thrust bearing saddles over and I have always found that to have runout. I have a Truline Bar that I machined an eccentric with a carbide tool ( installed on my .020 ) bar and after I cut the housing I have a setup to clean a few thousands on the inside of the case to make it perpendicular to the centerline. I have another tool I made to then to cut the thrust to allow for a .001 press fit for the thrust and that I have found brings the case back to new spec. Have you found a better way to do this operation. Without the cleanup on the inside, there is no way to get a uniform press on the thrust around the entire circumference.
I liked your comments and I do the same. I have a Mainliner and when I do the thrust cut I also clean up the thrust shoulder on the inside of the case. It only takes about .003/.005 and then I cut the rest from the front side. Best Wishes.
Wow,great video. Glad someone finally did a video on this subject.
Can you make a video on how to degree a vw type 1 camshaft?
Wow, that is too funny. We just did that last night and the plan was to film it but we ran out of time. We have another motor that is ready to be mocked up though, so we will film it in the next couple weeks. Fair warning though, it does take some specialized tools. Most are easy to make, but it is often cheaper to just have your local shop do it for you if you don't plan to do more than 1 or 2 of them.
Videos are posted to Patreon first. For early access, visit www.patreon.com/VintageVolks
I'm surprised the factory never figured this out and just had the blocks cast with the Hoover mods- or that these are not stock mods on aftermarket blocks by now. They're such simple and obvious solutions to a problem.
They did figure it out and Incorporated these changes into the Type-IV motor. VW also never put a filter on the Type-1 motor, at least not the German made ones, despite the fact that most cars had oil filters starting in the 60s. That is another modification that is easy to make and solves a real problem.
I disagree .. hoover, for the most part ... was just solutions looking for problems.
Hoover did absolutely zero tests to confirm that his mids worked ... of which, in fact, none actually did !
But original vw engines, with regular oil changes .. often lasted 500, 000 miles, and dealerships handed out watches and pins for such occasions.
Sooo ... where were these "problems" to begin with ?
Watched this a couple times: how does the oil get in to lubricate the lifters?
Have you ever looked at a running engine with the valve cover off to see if oil actually sprays the springs from that slot in the rocker?
I ran with no valve covers this week. Almost no oil drips off the rocker assembly !
Hot engine, fresh oil, various revs for 5 minutes, up to 3000rpm.
And you are lucky to see a drip every 15 seconds !
And that makes sense, as there just isn't enough gap for oil to flow. What bearings run on is a thing called static pressure. Lots of oil pressure and little flow. Thats exactly what bearing need !
You'd need at least a .004" bearing gap for any kind of oil flow.
We don't have that around the rocker arms.
We have about .001" gap = almost zero oil flow.
One thing the vw engine has .. is the lifters and pushrods. Between the shaking actions of the hollow push-rods, and trapping of the oil .. you get breif spikes oil pressure ... up into the thousands of psi in the pushrods. That ton of psi is exactly what protects your lifter bores, exactly when they need it.
Oh, and grinding that groove between the two oil rings ... destroys that high oil pressure, leaving you with worn lifter bores, and compromised rocker lubrication.
@@thestove2407 Did you do all the mods he showed?
@DonziGT230
Hoover was a dolt who knew nothing about engines or lubrication. Hoover did absolutely zero documentation before or after his mods.
Or he would have realized he was chasing the wrong theory.
All linear bearing rely on static pressure ... not increased flow !
Hoover mistakenly thought linear bearings, like our crank, cam, lifters, and rockers .. needed more oil flow.
They don't !
Increased flow does nothing .. as linear bearings are designed for static pressure because of the bearing's .001" gap .. Those style of bearings .. rey rely on a tight oil restriction as it's basis for lubrication.
Hoover mods are a joke, and people are still laughing ...
Every hoov-mod destroys pressure, and more flow is never ever going to happen.
Well ... it will happen, as his mods will ruin your engine, as every hoov-mod decreases pressure.
BTW.. vw oil pressure is governed by the front oil pressure relief valve.
Vw engine oil psi ... is dependent upon that Spring.
P.S. .... larger oil pumps .. only cause more oil pressure, and more oil pressure, depresses the oil by-pass valve... and that diverts oil from your oil cooler ... creating .. an even more hotter engine.
Hoover was a fool who chased the wrong oil bearing theory.
The vw oil pump is a static pressure pump ..not a high flow volumetric impeller style pump ...
All these hoover mods .. will ruin your vw engine !
All Hoov-mods .. are a fools errand ! 🎉
Finally a video explaining how to do hoover mods properly!! Nice video, I'm waiting to see which are the stock rocker mods. I will do every mod on my next engine build (1968cc)
Does the stock oil cooler work well with this mods or a external oil cooler is needed?
Thanks a lot and keep posting this kind of videos!!
Thanks Alberto! We'll see what we can do about posting a video withe the modifications to the stock rockers. It's much more involved, so it really warrants its own video just on the rockers. Make sure to subscribe and click the notification bell so you know when we get it posted.
The stock oil cooler is plenty. As long as your cooling tin is all installed correctly and you have a properly functioning thermostat, there is usually no need for an external cooler, at least for a naturally aspirated street motor.
Brilliant relevant info,would you carry out this mod if using standard rocker gear ?..Any mod removing heat from the heads is warranted though I guess..
I'm not sure what you mean by "standard rocker gear" but yes, we do these mods on stock through performance with straight cut (which we don't use much) and factory mag cam gears.
How much of a drop in cylinder head temperature do you see? (stock 1500SP) Thx
Great video! Thanks guys!
I was about to do the same thing on my forged cb 1.4's but I decided not to, I drilled small holes in my pushrod to act as sprinklers
Very cool mods. Questions. Have you noticed any difference in oil pressure at idle and up to operating temp? And, on the new Auto Linea Aluminum cases, do you perform the same mods? Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I bet the grooves on the lifter bodies help keep those bores from getting scarred
With the correct size pump, you will not notice a difference in oil pressure at idle. Yes, we absolutely do these mods on the super cases.
Great video! I'm guessing because of the displacement for this engine, full blown mods like this are almost a must. What about for a seasonal daily driver. I have the original HO case from my 67 1500. I want to just build it up to maybe 1641. What oil cooling mods would you suggest...if any. I live in Wyoming so she's not driven during Winter and our climate rarely gets too 100 in Summer. Thanks!
We do these mods on all engines we build from stock to 2332cc. You can not have too much oil to the heads. The lack of oil in the factory design causes extra ware on the rockers in particular. It also allows more heat to build up in the springs which causes them to soften or fail earlier as well.
Thats bad ass! Thank you man!
Interesting, now I am even more like that illustration by John Muir where the guy reads about his engine and is wide awake at night thinking about what he read/saw...If you are staying stock, would you still do the oil galley mods ?
Yes, we do the mods on stock engines all the time. Its all about heat removal and lubrication in the heads. That will help your stock motor last longer as well.
NIce Vid!
Is there any information comparing temps and oil volumes on 1&2?
Does the trajectory of the rockerarm groove have to point directly towards the pad and why not do both sides of the arm?
Any precautions necessary on aluminum cases with regards to drilling the galleys?
Could you show the mods near the oil pump on a prepped case please?
Thanks a lot!
Bob did a bunch of research on temps and volumes. That information is available on his blog still.
Yes, you want that grove to point at or just below the pad, to spray the spring and valve stem. If you look at the way the rocker fits, putting a groove on the other side will not spray anything but the casting itself.
The Super Cases can be drilled in exactly the same way.
I'm not sure what you mean when you want to see the mods near the pump. Are you talking about tapping the galleries for full flow? That is nothing more then running a tap in the pump body and in the case itself. It really has nothing to do with the Hover Mods.
@@VintageVolks Thanks a lot!
Grest video and excellent explanation. A minor correction. The correct word is oil "galley" not gallery. Unless you have miniature paintings inside the engine case.
Actually, its not an oil galley. A galley is a kitchen on a ship. You are not the only one to correct me on this, many people incorrectly call them a galley. www.automotivedictionary.org/Oil_gallery
LMAO! So which is it? A kitchen galley, or an art gallery? Or maybe it’s a shopping galleria? 😂😂😂😂
Try buying "gallery plugs" they dont exist because the correct word is "galley"
Which engine bearing is better? KS, GLYCO or SILVER (Mexico)?
Autolinea has got the hole where the camshaft is but no hole where the hydrolic pusher sits in.
Es posible que en un motor stroker 1745 cc presente sobre dimensionamiento de la medida de la bancada en el bloque de manera súbita(en 800 km de funcionamiento) el bloque es un AS41?
Oh the joy of German engineering, looks like an old Messerschmidt part.
Duuuude!
Absolutely amazingly to the point and well done video. One word.....SUBSCRIBED!
Thanks! We have plans for many more.
Did Hoover ever mention that worn out lifter bores are responsible for low oil pressure? The factory didn't leave out the Hoover mods for cost. The biggest problem today are people who use old worn out and tweaked cases
That is very true, your engine must be within spec to maintain oil pressure. That does not change the fact that the oil system on a type-1 based case has some limitations that are very easy to overcome. Doing these modifications will not lower your oil pressure, as long as your pump will deliver enough oil after the modifications are made.
Obrigado pelas dicas, embora eu não compreenda o inglês, visualmente deu para entender e aprender o que foi feito.
Why dont you groove the crank and rods too and improve oiling? 😅
Am i to understand that we dont modify the center cam bearing ? just the case behind the bearing..? And i wonder if this will cause an increased oil quantity in the valve cover and possibly oil up the valve cover breather hose. ?
That is correct, you only modify the web and not the bearing. It will absolutely cause more oil in the valve covers, that is the whole point. That oil will flow through the pushrod tubes back to the sump carrying a bunch of heat with it. As long as the breather hoses in the valve covers are in the top corners, you will not see any issues with oil getting in the tubes.
Nice video!!,what are the other mods that you do to the case when only using stock rocker arms vs.high lift rockers?
We are starting to get back out in the shop after taking the summer off. This is the most commonly asked for video, so we will try to get it it next.
Your description of the lifter oil supply mod is misleading. You see (using your numbers), 8% of the time the lifter / pushrod is in motion and 92% it is stationary. So why would you need to supply oil to the lifter pushrod that isn't moving 92% of the time? That does not appear to be a needed mod.
any thoughts on building up the drilling areas with the new low temperature aluminium rods , before drilling ?
We have found that most cases have enough material to drill them out. But if I don't warn people and someone drills through the side of the case, they come screaming mad at us. When we do drill through, we have mag filer rod, so we TIG weld it back up, no big deal. For the home gamer, Alumaweld may work but I really have no idea. It would have to seal at some pretty good pressures.
When setting up the lifter, is there a reason you don’t just drill another hole in the second groove like the one has. If fear of oil pressure drop would be the issue, maybe half the diameter or so. Thoughts?
If you look at the grooves on the side of the lifter compared to the cup inside the lifter that accepts the push rod, you will see that the second groove is in the wrong location and you cannot drill a hole. It will simply create an internal oil leak and not send oil out the push rod to the head.
When you line bore a block -
What is ur bearing crush clearance ?
Example -
O.D. of bearing is - 2.600
What would cutters be set to ??
Same #
Or a couple thou smaller.
@Jason Estes - thank you !!!
Several show the cutting - but no-one shows the set up or gives specs !!!
Probably because it be like asking what type of oil - blah blah blah !!
Thanks again !!!
Ok how do you seal the hole in the bell housing where you inserted the drill bit
When you line bore a case, is it also wise to mill the mating surfaces of the two halves of the case the same amount of material as the line boring removed?
No, leave the case parting line alone. You should have the cylinder deck trimmed though, so you know it is parallel to the crank center line.
probably a daft question but what do you do with the hole at the back of the fly wheel now you have drills the oil gallery cheers
You tap it to accept a 1/16" NPT plug. I like to use steel plugs with red Loctite so you can get them out. I find that the heads on the aluminum plugs strip to easily. Some people don't like the steel plugs because of the lack of thermal expansion and in theory they could leak. I have not seen that issue myself.
do you do this processes on both halfs of the case or just one case I'm going to have a go
HI.
I see such a mess modification necessary on the type 4 case?
perfect for an ultra light plane application.
Absolutely. Bob was very big in that community. Many of the engines he built were for "flying VWs" as he put it.
great job
what happens if that burr slips and gouges that machined surface where the cam goes?
hello good afternoon... wouldn't it be ideal to increase the holes in the oil passage of the tappet housing by 2 millimeters?
The galleries in the lifter bores are already large enough to carry all the oil that can be delivered to them by the feeder passages. I've never had the need to make them bigger. Might be an interesting test though. I'll have to put together a junk motor just to try that out.
@@VintageVolks Well, I ended up increasing it here on the motor on the side of the frame where the work is done for the oil circulation of the command in my vw1600. I will use a 30mm oil pump the original was 26mm.. let's see what happens
Would I benefit from this on my turbo motor?
Do you do Hoover mids on dual relief blocks.
I have a aluminum case. Are these mods already dun on the aluminum cases??
Yes, the aluminum super cases have the same issues. We do these mods on them all the time.
Who or what is the "Kirk's VW" mentioned at 5:33 or so?
"Crook's VW". It is a joke. It's your local VW mechanic that does a shitty job and charges you way too much for it. It is not any one particular shop, but every town has one.
my oil pressure is great when the engine is cold but when it heats up the oil pressure goes down to less than 10lbs . What could be causing this ? how do I check the pressure relief valve for proper operation ?
There are a lot of things that could cause that issue. From the wrong oil, to warn main bearings. There are specifications for the pressure relief and oil control springs. I believe they can be found in the Without Guesswork books. You have to measure the spring pressure at a particular height and then compare it against the spec.
Hi could I use the blocks for ultralight aircraft
Didn't quite understand tapping and plugging oil pump housing?
So oil can't leak past? Plug what?
Plug the outlet side of the oil pump so oil is forced out the pump cover and to the filter. But, you also need to plug the matching gallery in the case so when oil returns to the case it cannot leak between the pump body and the case causing a drop in oil pressure at idle. Motors that do not have both passages plugged can, but do not always, have a dim or flickering oil pressure warning light at a hot idle.
Can this mod be done with aluminum cases...you mentioned that you were drilling a magnesium case.
Yeah, we can do it with aluminum as well.
I did this to my case and now don't reach working temperature even with 8:1 compression ratio on a 2275cc engine 😜
I live in Mexico city
Cheers!
Can you run an external line from the output of to cooler directly to the oil galley on the pad side of the engine?
What do you mean by "the pad side of the engine?" Are you asking if you could split your return line and have a direct line into the 1/2 side of the case? If so, the answer is no. There is no gallery end in the pully side of the case and no way to get a line between the flywheel and the case to inject oil in that end of the gallery. Going around the cam and enlarging those galleries is the best way we have found.
@@VintageVolks Thanks. That is what I was asking.
need to see the rocker squirters-squirt da springs
ua-cam.com/video/OfuQ9d_EtFE/v-deo.html
Wonder if people using VW engines in Aircraft know these mods.
They do. Bob Hoover, the guy that came up with this, was big into flying VWs.
Why would you use a mag case instead of a new purpose built aluminum performance case. Has anyone ever cut windows into valve cover and a case and spun the motor to see if it works or how much difference it makes in the lubrication system.
are you guys still doing case mods/machine work? How much do you charge?
We are still doing machine work. We have been so busy in the shop, we have not had time to make videos. Check out our website for prices.
vintagevolks.com/
thanks guys...
SO. You cant do this unless you have a full flow set up?
You can do this without doing full flow but I would never do that. An oil filter will extend the life of your engine greatly. It will way offset the cost of doing the modification.
Who is Crooks VW that you mention a couple of times?
It's a joke. It is your local VW shop that does not know what they are doing and they charge you for things you don't need. It is not any one specific shop, but every town has at least 1. :)
@@VintageVolks I thought it may be, but being in the UK, it's not a term I've heard before
well you got the idea !
You'd think someone would've figured out how to make roller lifters and rockers and hemi heads and stuff for VW's by now.
They do have hemi heads and roller rockers available. Atleast they did a decade ago when I still messed with them.
@Robie Billy I'm currently trying to figure out how to adapt a VW air cooled to a Porsche auto.. without spending 6k I don't have. It'd be great to have an automatic bug because my hip and back just can't stand a clutch in traffic anymore.
Find an autostick, get the joys of shifting gears without mashing a clutch. Neat little piece of engineering
@@jb8086 again price and fitting it to a VW engine
Price varies according to car, there were bugs and ghias made from factory with autostick. I had a ‘69 bug with one, currently own a ‘70 bug autostick. They’re getting a little harder to find due to many being converted to 4 speed. Check the classifieds on TheSamba website look under 1968 and up type 1 cars and search “autostick” and “automatic stick shift”
Does this apply to aluminum cases too? or are these mods incorporated in their design?
No, the aluminum cases do not have these modifications made to them. We do them on both the factory style aluminum cases as well as the bubble top/super cases.
Are there any mods for a 36hp case with no cam bearings?
None that I know of, but I don't do much with 36hp motors.
1 AM. Your wife wakes up and seeing you drawing in your little.black book . she murders , hopeless gear head .
Could you please remind me what size the shorter drill bit is? Thank you
I think he said 1/4 inch, at 10:00
@@alexanderedenholm1919 awesome! Thank you
Which oil pump do you guys use with the Hoover Mods engine cases? 26mm or 30mm?
We use the 26mm pump for street motors. 30mm is over kill and if your pressure relief and bypass valves are not setup correctly, you can have a situation where your oil bypasses the cooler even when it's hot. That is not a good place to be. It does not happen all the time, but the risk is there.
@@VintageVolks
Thanks for the fast reply & great info.
What pressure relief oil pump/cover do you use?
I like the Berg cover. I'm not a fan of the aluminum covers, they ware out too quickly.
@@VintageVolks I bought a Gene Berg cover last fall. It's in use now. 50psi continuous.
Just curious what brand is the DRO on your mill?
It is called Touch DRO from Yuriy's Toys. The head is an Android based tablet. We opted for one of Yuriy's pre-built readers and the stainless digital scales. It is a nice system. Has more features than the Sony that came on the mill and I have found the accuracy and repeatability to be as good as the mill itself.
Are those AA performance rockers? Have you had good luck with them?
They are AA rockers and yes we have had good luck with them. The only issue we have ever seen is one adjuster screw broke on a customer, but he is VERY hard on his stuff so I can't say it was a manufacturing defect.
Magnesium fires get exciting! Better have a bucket of sand on hand, you don’t put them out with with water.
i have a german case i would like to send to ypu to have some machine work done ,
Sounds good. I got your number from a friend a while back. I'll give you a call later today.
Show !
I am going to need some serious help trying to build a super Street motor want to come out to California and race I do not have a car so I figure I will start with the motor. Also have a German case. ItWas the motor my old boss built had a Berg crank and jet rods slipper skirt 88’s and FK 89 had some of jeans heads on it also I prepped the car for 15 years when I worked for a scooter every time we raced it he got a new girlfriend and we stop racing together anyway he called me out of the blue we went and raced the car turns out he forgot to put oil in it it did not go very far lol OK still looks good but the lifter Boars or sloppy and need to be bushed. I will have to tell you the sharpie story one day lol when I worked for Brad Anderson my first day we had a serious thrash in the pits and Randy asked me to hand him the marks a lot did Know what he was talking about. I didn’t know some guys in California called the magic markers also lol
As a grinding wheel mounting trainer, it was painful to watch the eccentric discs in your pencil grinder!