the gremlins buddy. my disco in on the road now and they are all coming out the woodwork deseal heater packed up, exhaust blowing slightly and fumes getting in cab, starter motor packed up,coolant leak from expansion tank,three amigos just joined the party, think the radiator is clogged up as she got pretty hot going up a really big bank. and the latest the rear output seal on the transfer box packed up. oh yeah just remembered the bed mounted winch just packed up. it's why we love them
Rule #1: There's always a reason why stuff goes wrong and there's always something that you need to do to fix it. If We've all done it but, when you think there's a problem and then you think "Oh, it seems to have sorted itself out", it's just waiting to bite you in the ass when it goes wrong again. Coolant system on my D2 was always a bit sketchy but it was fine for months so I kind of forgot about it... until I got stuck in a traffic jam on a hot day and it decided to dump most of it's coolant onto the road. Kind of an interesting one, that. The TD5 has a hard-pipe "coolant manifold" running under the radiator. It's got "barbs" crimped into the ends for rubber hoses to go onto and the machine in the factory must've been a bit "aggressive" because, while crimping the barbs, it actually stretched the metal enough that there were tiny cracks in it. When you put a new rubber hose onto the metal pipe it's good enough to seal the cracks. When the rubber hose gets old and soft, or when it gets hot and softens, coolant can squeeze through the cracks in the metal pipe and out of join with the rubber hose. Back to rule #1: There's always a reason why it happens and there's always something you need to do to fix it.
I couldn't agree more there is always a reason why things go wrong but with this coolant leak i can't honestly say why it keeps leaking as i can't find a reason for it both of the mating surfaces are flat and square and torqued up to the correct spec..if it does happen again the only thing i can do is get another coolant housing but there looks to be nothing wrong with the one i have got..now will have to run it and see and keep an eye on it.
You thought about one of those multi fuse/distribution blocks in the battery box? Can label them up and run appropriate thickness wires to stuff that has a heavy load etc, got one in my TD5 battery box with a decent amperage cable supply and it’s a really neat solution
Hi...i do have already have one of the switchable distribution boards in the truck running other things..but i do like to keep the fan on a single feed power supply as it makes chasing problems much easier plus we have just driven to Germany and back and had no issues now so i think the problem is fixed..
Hi mate...touch wood all fixed now only a few days before we go to Germany should be a great show..apparently it is massive so should have some good content..
@@All4Overland AHH ok, good. Yeah mine had the old style when I bought it, very slight leak, but took ages to see it because it only really leaked when up to temperature, dripped on a hot block and could never see it. Haven't had a problem with the metal one since but they still have a reputation for being a pain. Fingers crossed for you, especially for the Germany trip.
Ours has been the complete opposite when the engine is cold and its standing in the workshop it would leak and when up to temperature everything would expand it would seal and not leak at all...so you could always see the leak on the workshop floor when it was cold hopefully this time it is fixed..
Couple of thoughts about the rear window:- Firstly, have you pulled the rear door trim panel off and had a look at the door frame? I cracked the rear window in my 90 and it turned out to be 'cos the door frame had cracked at the welds where there's a reinforced plate to attach the spare wheel carrier. Frame wasn't rusty but there was a clean crack all the way through one of the bits of frame-tube, right next to a weld. I realise you've got a separate wheel-carrier now but if somebody's had a spare on the door previously it could have damaged the door frame. Secondly, could the door seal be a problem? Presumably it's not an OEM seal and, instead, it's got a length of "kit car" seal around the rear door. If that's a bit thicker than OEM it'd mean the door is being pushed in hard by the hinges on the driver's side and it'll be pushed in hard by the latch on the passenger side but the top corner on the passenger side is still free to bend outward slightly and cause the glass to crack. Might be worth removing the door seal, closing the door checking how that passenger side of the door sits and then checking again with the seal in place. If there's a difference, especially in the top corner, you know the seal's pushing the top corner of the door outward.
Hi mate...the frame on the door is good cos i checked it when i assembled it and put the door card on...also Beryl has always had a Mantec wheel carrier on even prior to us buying it we just replaced it..we also checked the door seal and the pressure is even all over the door..we know what caused the window to crack now there was some Oxide jacking under the aluminium skin which caused a pressure point that cracked the glass so hopefully now its been cleaned out it won't happen again.
Hi...fitted load of P gaskets on lots of different engines (300tdi) never had an issue this one is a bit of an oddity as this is the third time i have replaced it hopefully this time it is fixed..
It is understandable, extreme conditions, will require some maintenance here or there. Well done on the content creation.
Hi...its just one of those things its just constant maintenance especially on a truck nearly 40 years old and glad you enjoyed the vid..
Always interesting and a pleasure to watch mate 👍🏻🏴
Hi..glad you enjoyed..
the gremlins buddy. my disco in on the road now and they are all coming out the woodwork deseal heater packed up, exhaust blowing slightly and fumes getting in cab, starter motor packed up,coolant leak from expansion tank,three amigos just joined the party, think the radiator is clogged up as she got pretty hot going up a really big bank. and the latest the rear output seal on the transfer box packed up. oh yeah just remembered the bed mounted winch just packed up. it's why we love them
Lol...i think its a land rover thing we just shrug this off as a nornal day..
Mark. Is your nickname ‘lucky’?
Funny you should say that..regards Paul
Rule #1: There's always a reason why stuff goes wrong and there's always something that you need to do to fix it.
If We've all done it but, when you think there's a problem and then you think "Oh, it seems to have sorted itself out", it's just waiting to bite you in the ass when it goes wrong again.
Coolant system on my D2 was always a bit sketchy but it was fine for months so I kind of forgot about it... until I got stuck in a traffic jam on a hot day and it decided to dump most of it's coolant onto the road.
Kind of an interesting one, that.
The TD5 has a hard-pipe "coolant manifold" running under the radiator.
It's got "barbs" crimped into the ends for rubber hoses to go onto and the machine in the factory must've been a bit "aggressive" because, while crimping the barbs, it actually stretched the metal enough that there were tiny cracks in it.
When you put a new rubber hose onto the metal pipe it's good enough to seal the cracks.
When the rubber hose gets old and soft, or when it gets hot and softens, coolant can squeeze through the cracks in the metal pipe and out of join with the rubber hose.
Back to rule #1: There's always a reason why it happens and there's always something you need to do to fix it.
I couldn't agree more there is always a reason why things go wrong but with this coolant leak i can't honestly say why it keeps leaking as i can't find a reason for it both of the mating surfaces are flat and square and torqued up to the correct spec..if it does happen again the only thing i can do is get another coolant housing but there looks to be nothing wrong with the one i have got..now will have to run it and see and keep an eye on it.
You thought about one of those multi fuse/distribution blocks in the battery box? Can label them up and run appropriate thickness wires to stuff that has a heavy load etc, got one in my TD5 battery box with a decent amperage cable supply and it’s a really neat solution
Hi...i do have already have one of the switchable distribution boards in the truck running other things..but i do like to keep the fan on a single feed power supply as it makes chasing problems much easier plus we have just driven to Germany and back and had no issues now so i think the problem is fixed..
Lovely set up mate and glad you got fixed ready for an adventure. Can’t wait to see what you up to in Germany
Hi mate...touch wood all fixed now only a few days before we go to Germany should be a great show..apparently it is massive so should have some good content..
Must admit I've always put a small amount of sealant on those gaskets and worked for me
Hi..touch wood it woud appear that it has worked the small amount of sealant seems to have done the trick so maybe this is third time lucky lol..
@@All4Overland fingers crossed 🤞 nothing worse than doing a job more than once
Try to put some Hylomar on the gasket both sides no more leaking
Hi...i did not have any hylomar so a little bit of silicone on both mating surfaces and it would appear to have done the trick..
You are using the metal p gasket aren't you?
Hi...i have always used the Metal P gaskets..
@@All4Overland AHH ok, good. Yeah mine had the old style when I bought it, very slight leak, but took ages to see it because it only really leaked when up to temperature, dripped on a hot block and could never see it. Haven't had a problem with the metal one since but they still have a reputation for being a pain. Fingers crossed for you, especially for the Germany trip.
Ours has been the complete opposite when the engine is cold and its standing in the workshop it would leak and when up to temperature everything would expand it would seal and not leak at all...so you could always see the leak on the workshop floor when it was cold hopefully this time it is fixed..
Couple of thoughts about the rear window:-
Firstly, have you pulled the rear door trim panel off and had a look at the door frame?
I cracked the rear window in my 90 and it turned out to be 'cos the door frame had cracked at the welds where there's a reinforced plate to attach the spare wheel carrier.
Frame wasn't rusty but there was a clean crack all the way through one of the bits of frame-tube, right next to a weld.
I realise you've got a separate wheel-carrier now but if somebody's had a spare on the door previously it could have damaged the door frame.
Secondly, could the door seal be a problem?
Presumably it's not an OEM seal and, instead, it's got a length of "kit car" seal around the rear door.
If that's a bit thicker than OEM it'd mean the door is being pushed in hard by the hinges on the driver's side and it'll be pushed in hard by the latch on the passenger side but the top corner on the passenger side is still free to bend outward slightly and cause the glass to crack.
Might be worth removing the door seal, closing the door checking how that passenger side of the door sits and then checking again with the seal in place.
If there's a difference, especially in the top corner, you know the seal's pushing the top corner of the door outward.
Hi mate...the frame on the door is good cos i checked it when i assembled it and put the door card on...also Beryl has always had a Mantec wheel carrier on even prior to us buying it we just replaced it..we also checked the door seal and the pressure is even all over the door..we know what caused the window to crack now there was some Oxide jacking under the aluminium skin which caused a pressure point that cracked the glass so hopefully now its been cleaned out it won't happen again.
You did put a new gasket in, yes?
Hi...yes i always refit them with new gaskets..i am not that much of a cheapskate lol.
NEVER HAD A P GASKET LEAK IN OVER 7 YEARS AND IVE NEVER HAD ONE EVER WHAT ARE YOU DOING WRONG ?
Hi...fitted load of P gaskets on lots of different engines (300tdi) never had an issue this one is a bit of an oddity as this is the third time i have replaced it hopefully this time it is fixed..
Hi Paul did you receive the pictures i sent you at Facebook ok? Great video
Hi Ric...i have looked everywhere i can't find them it would appear i did not receive them.