Dim dip relays (the pink one) are really reliable, what your problem is likely to be is you have LED headlights! sorry, you still have the dim dip resistor in line. This gives on ign and side lights enouhg power to the headlight dipped beam for 1/6th brightness on normal bulbs, but the LEDs it just puts the dipped beam on as they can't decipher low voltage to full voltage. The lights flicker because the Buck-puck LED power supply is trying to ramp um the amps to light the lights, but can't so the lamp fails, then the regulator sees vots again and lights the light ramping up the amps to try to light the light etc... there is a plug on the inner right wing at the back of the wheel, take it off, 99% of LED headlamp issues instantly disappear! If the LED lights don't always come on after that, change the lamps! I recommend Wypac Crystal lamps and good quality blue lense H4 bulbs. Better than LED's pretty much everyday as they just work!
Exactly, I won't have LED's, when they go faulty you need to throw the whole lot away , a blown bulb is easier and cheaper, I use Cibie light units and uprated H4 bulbs.
One typical failure mode with mechanical relays is for the contact to get dirty with age, and then because it's dirty you will get a bit of arcing on the action. This arcing makes the contact dirtier, which makes it even more susceptible to arcing on the action. When the arcing gets bad, it can actually stick itself to the contact inside the relay. And you would see that as an intermittent operation of the relay. Sometimes a technician's tap with the handle end of a screwdriver will jar a sticking relay into life. So what I would do is to create the fault condition, and then go around with the handle end of my screwdriver and tap all the relays involved. If tapping the relay makes it suddenly work, you know you have a bad relay, and it's time to change it out. You can also take the plastic cover off the relay and clean the contacts, but this will typically only buy you a bit of time. So useful if you're in the position where you need to get it working for a few days while you source a replacement, but not as a permanent solution.
I noticed with my defender, Basically all the connectors need to be pull out once and clean + WD40ed to eliminate bad connections. Even fuse box had bad connections so I removed fuse one by one and cleaned and WD 40ed. Everything works now sort of but some time trailer lamp come on when use turn signal... Its 300tdi
Troubleshooting? LOL it's a trouble by itself and sometimes you want to shoot it but it also the solution by itself 😅 i am suspicious about my 110 puma if it's a real puma, a biological organism or a transformer captured by aliens
Nice video, enjoy your channel, keep up the good work!
Here’s what you do. Don’t call it “Earth” anymore, call it a “Ground” and things will work great every time.😀 Great video, as always!
Dim dip relays (the pink one) are really reliable, what your problem is likely to be is you have LED headlights! sorry, you still have the dim dip resistor in line. This gives on ign and side lights enouhg power to the headlight dipped beam for 1/6th brightness on normal bulbs, but the LEDs it just puts the dipped beam on as they can't decipher low voltage to full voltage. The lights flicker because the Buck-puck LED power supply is trying to ramp um the amps to light the lights, but can't so the lamp fails, then the regulator sees vots again and lights the light ramping up the amps to try to light the light etc... there is a plug on the inner right wing at the back of the wheel, take it off, 99% of LED headlamp issues instantly disappear! If the LED lights don't always come on after that, change the lamps! I recommend Wypac Crystal lamps and good quality blue lense H4 bulbs. Better than LED's pretty much everyday as they just work!
Exactly, I won't have LED's, when they go faulty you need to throw the whole lot away , a blown bulb is easier and cheaper, I use Cibie light units and uprated H4 bulbs.
One typical failure mode with mechanical relays is for the contact to get dirty with age, and then because it's dirty you will get a bit of arcing on the action. This arcing makes the contact dirtier, which makes it even more susceptible to arcing on the action. When the arcing gets bad, it can actually stick itself to the contact inside the relay. And you would see that as an intermittent operation of the relay.
Sometimes a technician's tap with the handle end of a screwdriver will jar a sticking relay into life. So what I would do is to create the fault condition, and then go around with the handle end of my screwdriver and tap all the relays involved. If tapping the relay makes it suddenly work, you know you have a bad relay, and it's time to change it out. You can also take the plastic cover off the relay and clean the contacts, but this will typically only buy you a bit of time. So useful if you're in the position where you need to get it working for a few days while you source a replacement, but not as a permanent solution.
I noticed with my defender, Basically all the connectors need to be pull out once and clean + WD40ed to eliminate bad connections. Even fuse box had bad connections so I removed fuse one by one and cleaned and WD 40ed. Everything works now sort of but some time trailer lamp come on when use turn signal... Its 300tdi
Haha my trailer light comes on every time i use the indicators 😂
Earthing issues are a pain. I had earthing issues on my rear LED lights I ended up adding my own extra earth strap to the rear cross member.
It's always a bugger when you have to take the dash out.
Troubleshooting? LOL it's a trouble by itself and sometimes you want to shoot it but it also the solution by itself 😅 i am suspicious about my 110 puma if it's a real puma, a biological organism or a transformer captured by aliens