This is what I call a perfect instructional video. The carpenter explains each component’s function with absolute clarity. I know a gem when I see one. Thank you for this video. 🙏
Ten years on and still (when using the technique on the right side of the window) one of the best videos on creating a highly water resistant window installation.
Best new construction flanged window installation tutorial on UA-cam. As a former carpenter, it had been too many years since I had installed a window and forgotten a few of the steps, this video makes everything clear and concise. I really feel sorry for anyone who misses this video, I must’ve watched over 100 video clips before I found this one, and I almost can’t believe how many people are misinformed and give the wrong advice..?
Been watching a lot of videos on window installation. Anyone can figure it out but to do it right takes knowledge and experience. And if not done right you'll just cause yourself more problems in the future. Roofing, siding, windows and doors are meant to keep the elements out (obviously) but if not done right you'll just introduce elements to the framing of the house and will slowly rot and cause havoc and money. Great video, best one I've seen on window installation. Great channel.
I've seen dozens of videos now online of people flashing windows horribly, and this is the first time I've seen a guy and I *know* he knows what he's talking about because he explains in excellent simplicity exactly why each thing is done that way.
I would like to thank Rick Arnold for educating me in installing a window the correct way. I fully agree with others here that this is the proper way of doing a proper job. Wish all our contractors were as dedicated to their work as Rick.
I watch a ton of videos and I promise this is the best most concise video that made so much sense I’m trying to figure out how I didn’t already know! Awesome video, instant training resource!
Outstanding. Watched a few other window installation videos before this and was flabbergasted at the complete lack of knowledge and skill as well as improper installations. This is absolutely perfect. Exceptional instructional video.
That's called a disgrace since he left out the bottom horizontal flashing under the side pieces and over the house wrap. Look at the exposed wood! This is shocking after the first part with correct details
One thing I would add is a horizontal piece of quality tar paper across the bottom before starting this process. As he discribes you always want to direct water away. With this piece at the bottom you can direct any water coming down the sides of the window between the window and trim/siding, out over the siding below, and trim off what shows after the siding is installed. It’s not as easy with vinyl siding, but can be done. I’m not a fan of house wraps, since it covers the whole wall from top to bottom, and when siding multiple holes will penetrate through leaving a spot for water to eventually get in. I have always been a firm believer of installing siding paper/house wrap in stages and have it come out over the top of the siding, overlapping the siding and paper/wrap. This directs water away. Siding is not water proof, and will always find a way in, but the more you can do to direct water away helps. Also lessons the chance of water damage/rot to the sheathing and framing later on.
Thank you for outright saying the two methods are OK. I noticed the different methods on the other videos. As a DIY, I wasn't sure if one way was wrong. I also like your easy explanation or reasoning on why it is done a certain way (how water can enter). Based on your years of experience and obvious knowledge, I was kinda hoping you would hint on what method you like better (1) house wrap around jams with caulking on house wrap or (2) cut back house wrap and caulking on wood. I am leaning on caulking on wood. Great Video - Thank you!!!
This was the best video on how to install a window that I have seen. Well done, good simple instructions and sensible explanations. So glad I watched it.
what a great video, even 8 years later. wasn't sure about the house wrap with the new build i am doing and this explained it perfectly. thank you. hope you're doing well here in the end of 2021
Finally someone that know how to do it. I’ve watched a dozen guys that say their way is best and all were not totally right. I prefer the way you did it on the right side. No way for water under the fabric to wick around and into the house or onto the wood frames.
Nice video thanks. This is probably the most complete video I’ve seen. Attention to details such as overlapping the gap on the sides with the tape and adding a bead of sealant before adding the drip pan.
I'm looking for a company to replace 9 windows and this is a good video to save so when the time comes I can make sure the company does the installation this way. I'm glad we have consumer complaint pages on line now I think it really helps.
This is not the best way...before folding over the window pan ,first put a piece of vycor or similar across the opening extending by each side about 6”..using vycor.(9”) you can adhere the top half (4 1/2”) to the wall leaving the paper on the bottom half..then fold the pan over the vycor...why ? Because you want to tuck your sidewall under this vycor then seal it over your sidewall...why ? So any water drains out over the shingles not Behind them.......also the drip cap should go on before the top seal is applied.....nice try but I’ll stick with our system,no leaks 35yrs.........there’s more
Well looks like these 2, 33 dislikes appeared on your comment. "This is not the best way" ... nothing to show his way. Some folks are a critique but never shows anything to be critiqued. smdh
It should have 923,000 down votes because it is incorrect. He did not place a horizontal flashing under the bottom of the window before the side pieces! Bad!
Windows done this way will never have a leak. Sure, there are different ways of doing things that may be just as good, but I'd be giving this guy a pretty nice tip at the end of the job.
@@davidgates1044 He is using flashing tape, which you can get in different widths. There are several brands that make it (Typar, Resisto, IKO, and others) but he is using Typar flexible flashing tape in the video.
Holy CRAP. That was possibly the best demonstrated, best explained, and best lit(because that matters too) window installation video I've seen. KUDOS. There are some comments I've read that are critical or offer alternatives, and that's great help to make everyone better and more informed. Sharing a link in a comment to that alternative video would be helpful to all. We all get better together. That's how dad did it. That's how NASA does it. And, it's worked out pretty well so far. (Tony Stark omaj)
The way we do it is similar, except we use peel and stick around the window before the window goes in, the another around the window like he did after its in place. We probably do it like this because were in Canada BC, it can get really wet here. We also never peel off the plastic/paper off the back of peelnstick all at once like he did. We hold it up (unpeeled) first to see how its going to fit, and either get someone to hold it or roll it up and peel it as its placed. This ensures it wont stick to itself and leaves no creases. If we're folding it, sometimes depending on the length, we'll score the paper/plastic peel so we can leave the fold's peel on and unpeel it after, again this is to ensure it doesnt stick to itself and or crease.
KewlCrayon Question about the first layer of peel and stick. Do you cut the housewrap flush with the jamb (i.e. don't wrap it in at all) then put the peel and stick around the corner bridging between the housewrap and the framing, so the peel and stick is "bent" 90 degrees? That's what I am thinking of doing for the jambs. Seems like that way no water will every get into the window opening from behind the housewrap, especially considering I have stucco and will be using two layers of house wrap. I live in Manitoba and don't get nearly as much rain as BC, but my walls are still rotting from poor window installations.
+Blake Holowick Not sure if you have already put on the stucco, but this blog post might be useful to help prevent rot by using a ventilated rainscreen gap behind stucco: www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/install-stucco-right-include-air-gap I've learned a lot from the Green Building Advisor site. Best of luck.
Thanks so much Rick, I've always wanted to know how to do this the correct way, and your video is spot on. I've had some high wind and rain hitting in my windows and this technique is fantastic. Thanks again.
Thank you for a video. I think this is the best instructional video on window install on the net. "Professionals" that installed windows in my house never water proved the frame/window. Video super helpful!
Most Helpful....I'm replacing a French Door with a window....and wanted to make sure I install, insulate and seal it properly. Very easy to understand. Thanks!
In Oz, we dont wrap and seal our houses near this, I wish we did. One thing though, our drip caps usually over lap the edge of the window by 1-2 inches (each side) Notch the cladding(siding) to suit. It is at these corners, that driving rain is most likely to penetrate. Good video btw.
Great installation! I would have liked to have seen the window being shimmed up on the inside prior to leveling. As to allow for installing minimal expansion spray foam around the perimeter of the window frame and rough framing.
Ty for this comment.. I was thinking same thing .. this install is perfect.. I myself tho like to put a carpenter pencil on sill both left and right to bring it up approximately 1/4 "ish for "chinking.". (insulation) being spray foam or similar
So the trim goes on the drip pan? I am doing this today and wondering how the pvc trim that I bought attaches on top of the window. The window has channels for trim and the drip cap is going to cover that channel.
@@travisburch4342 unfortunately no. I mean, I think I know the answer but it didn't work with my setup so I had to skip on the drip sheild. You need the space to work with and the appropriate drip guard to make it work. Check out matt risengers build science channel, he deals with it too. Good luck!
@@travisburch4342 I watched that and it freaked me out lol. I don't have those tools or skill set. Might have been after that vid that I punted on the drip pan lol
@@voiceofREASONS haha I hear you! Does it make sense to put the trim under the drip pan in your installs? (Or I guess you could say the drip pan on top of the trim)
Can you tell me if I can install a window slider that is 5'x 40" on on a sun porch. I have 4 windows to install. I got these windows as new construction. I have 23 feet across the sun porch to work with. I brought these windows with out a nailing flange. What will I need to do the same job you are doing. I',m working on the second floor. My height is almost 10 ft. Because its on the weather side, would I need treated lumber for the framing and would I use 2x4's or 2x6's. Thanks, I hope you reply to me.
The detailed information and the explanation of those details are very helpful. Thanks for posting this instructional video. It will help me on my backyard shed project.
Hey Rick, I know this video has been out for quite sometime but I REALLY appreciate you sharing your expertise. I have now confidently put in 3 windows while carefully following your instructions. I have saved this video for review every time I begin to replace a window. The video is very well done and appreciate all the step-by-step tips and comparison of different methods. Thanks again! Jeff-Seattle/Tacoma, WA
Nice work on the brake i must admit the oil ports. Confused me at first as i was wondering why you. Were. Putting counter screws in the middle of a hinge originally. Looks like you got pretty good bends and that was one of the best waterproofing. Ive seen i did residential construction for a few years, and some renovation work its amazing how many crappy flashing jobs. Have been done on windows that eventually lead to mold and lots of rot as well as the water usually attracted termites that ive seen do structual damage. In older homes that didnt have todays pressure treated sill plates on the concrete unfortunately one of them was a place i bought and discovered many years later luckily it was a Condominium and that fell under the Associations responsibility to repair all because of a crappy window installation being the culprit they went after the builder but it was past the 20 year warranty they had so insurance picked up some of the costs and the Association had to pay te remaining amount
This is a far better technique and presentation than the way I was taught on the job. I have some questions. If one checks for plumb level and square, what can one do if one of those measures is out of whack? If the window is square and level, what is to be done if it is also out of plumb? Another, perhaps unrelated question, is a head scrather that I have noticed on two recent jobs: I installed a double hung window that I measured to be plumb, level and square, the side window frames were straight and the bottom sash was level with the sill and had a uniform gap with the frame and operated smoothly. Yet, the top sash was cocked relative to the bottom sash enough to be noticed by a homeowner. What is going on?
I know I'm late to this party with this answer.. but assuming everything you said was absolutely accurate then the window is not perfectly manufactured- one of the jambs is a little longer/shorter than it should be, probably because it was not drawn up completely when the unit was fastened together. All it takes is a blob of butyl sealant in the corner to throw off the length. . You can tolerate a little bit of "off" here (< 1/8"-ish is about all however). As long as everything is operating and not leaking it'll be OK and the trim carpenter can make it look good. I've installed tons of all kinds of windows where this was the case... heat-welded vinyl... fancy high-end clad/wood units... slight imperfections are the norm not the exception. That's why I mark the center of the RO top and bottom... the center of the unit top and bottom, and start by aligning those marks. If the window sill is dead level and the center marks are aligned, the bottom sash should close correctly, and 9 times out of 10 everything else will be OK too, even if slightly "off" (1/32" out of plumb in 4' usually won't matter). But always check ALL the operation before nailing off the unit.
Thanks fro the video. Nice job. There were a couple of things though. First, you left the building wrap at the bottom of the window open. You mentioned something about starting at the bottom and working up but nothing was done to seal the paper on the bottom of the window. Seems to me that the sill pan should have lapped the building paper. Second, the window was placed directly on the rough sill rather than on shims. This leaves no room for foam insulation. Do you not need insulation there?
+Alan Eyre It's now the end of April and these questions are still not answered. Can someone with expertise answer them? Now I have the same questions.
Anderson Windows ask you to leave the bottom open. Thought behind it is if water gets behind it has a way to get out. Similar to weeping holes. I also agree about the insulation. There should have been a slight gap.
seems you can't leave exposed osb on the bottom like that. water will get behind the tyvek and rot the osb. i'm guessing the tyvek needed to be cut exactly flush with the rough framing. then, the sill flashing would adhere to / be on top of the tyvek down there.
looking at it again, what i thought was exposed osb is actually the tape. so there is no exposed osb at the bottom. another thing: around here we use metal drip cap. would have been nice if he talked about the different types of drip cap out there. also, give us some manufacture names of "sealant" he used? does he mean polyurethane? or does he want 100% silicone?
Thank you! Mine will be (4) 2x3 shed window installations. The drawing sure falls short of these details. UA-cam is my how to go to! I'll now be able to do a better installation.
Very good job! I anticipate having to replace some windows on a new construction home. The windows are Anderson Silverline. Told not very good. This approach will leave me with peace of mind. Thanks
Great video! I have a couple of questions. What happens below the window? That part doesn't look complete, there is a gap between the house wrap and the window opening. Also is there a 2nd video that shows how the cladding integrates with the window frame? Thanks!
Thank you. This is a great way to do this because you can keep the house protected if you are waiting for your windows to arrive. I saw that you put a nail in every hole on the window flange, and i got concerned because I generally put nails in the corners and then about one every 6 inches every were else. so should i not do that
i would typically build out the rough opening with 5/4x3" stock so the window is on correct plane. this will entail new interior trim but it is the easiest way to flash correctly outside. use unfaced rigid insulation and do not tape the seams if you plan on using a housewrap over that. now that your flange is on correct plane flash exactely as the video shows
Best one I've seen yet, thanks Rick! I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. If installing 1" T&G Insulation over the existing sheathing along with new windows, does the house wrap still go on first, over the sheathing, or does it go over the insulation, after the windows are installed?
Pretty good video, only if vinyl siding is going over it. I install almost the same way, except, I use wood siding. And for shingles and claps, the side pieces need to not be adhered and placed on top of shingles below the window to direct water to the top of the siding not behind it. In order to do this, I use a piece of tar paper or aluminum flashing on the bottom before the flashing tape and the sides can get adhered to that, creating a fully splined window
I notice he’s using some sort of flange sealant. I have never heard of this. He’s not using normal window door siding sealant. What is the product he’s using?
Great video. I wish our installer had seen this. We had new PVC windows installed - replacements with 2" brickmould/1" nose sill with hidden nailing channel under a pull off/push on cap, not retrofit, into our stucco sided home. The installer did not seal under the drip cap above the window and in fact, slit it (with snips back to the house for who knows what reason) and folded a section back so that the bottom edge of it actually rests on top of the window instead of extending out as a drip cap should. I also do not believe that any sealant was applied to the backside of the brickmould (Canadian spelling). I am worried about rain hitting that wall and allowing water to penetrate the wall cavity. We have contacted the company that we went through for the installer but are not sure a replacement installer will be much better. Two windows have drip caps...one damaged as mentioned. The other windows do not have drip caps installed at all. Is there a way install a new drip cap to an already sided house?
This is a secondary solution to your problem: 1.Remove the top window trim. 2.slide the flashing/ drip cap under the siding above the window. 3. Replace the top trim piece under the drip cap. 4. Re-caulk/seal above/between the siding & drip cap union. That would be the only way I would think to make it work without removing the whole window and starting over.
Wish I could afford those products you have there, also my sheathing is rigid foam, not so sure the window would fasten as well, also worry the cheaper tape I have to use might not adhere so well to the foam (without priming)... but I like seeing all of the options out there. Nice job.
I did a lot of research and watched many videos on properly flashing and installing new windows. Everything is perfect and was tone to a "T" as you did here. I installed my first 4 windows, two of which are under a porch roof so they will not even be exposed to weather. After doing the first four I realized I forgot a very important part, I forgot to silicone the nailing flange before nailing in the window. I know this is crucial. So my question is should I take the window out or since they have been properly flashed should they be ok? Thanks
did you take the windows back out? if not really exposed to weather i'd just assume use a good elastomeric caulk around the trim, instead of regular caulk, to repel water from your hose.
I been remodelling for 45 years. Don't get paranoid if the windows are under a porch unless you live in a hurricane or tornado zones where the wind and rain come at you completely sideways. This stuff is sponsored by the people who want to sell you all the materials...think about that!!! it's called PROFIT motivated brainwashing.
Can I do the same sort of prep work on an old home where we are taking out windows down to the rough opening, re squaring and prepping for window reinstallment? We have access to the siding (old asphalt). I'd like to make it as waterproof & moisture proof as possible. This seems the best way.
@@nholt I don't think you need to worry. I imagine Texas is relatively dry compared to the tropics. I live in Bali.New sneakers here only last a few months before they fall apart for example.
Very professional and detailed. Just one question. I noticed you didn't do anything to the bottom of the window regarding taping, etc. after putting it in. Is that to allow water to escape off of the sill tile you installed and not be trapped?
if you eliminate the top cap layer of flashing tape water can still get in through the nail holes. its the whole point behind bituminous flashing. the metal cap flashing stops water from sitting on top of the brick mold then creeping up behind the flashing tape in a freeze thaw cycle
One thing I liked about this guy is he said check with the window manufacturer. Seen a bunch of window projects on youtube and while many are acceptable when I see what window they are installing I realized its not per the directions. First and formost read the window directions for installation.
So what do you do when you use new replacement windows on an old house and you have to rip out rotten molding around window. Do you tape under the new wood or on top? The siding will be replaced as well with a layer of 1/2 inch ridged foam
Great video. I did notice the tape you stuck the building wrap to the jam with is not likely made for wood adhesion and will certainly come off in short order. I think if that was really a concern one would have to use flashing tape not building wrap tape. That's my only thought this was the best video after watching about 15 to refresh myself on the process. Thanks
Can you make a video with window build outs. Here we use Mitten foam after the typar, in order for our siding too be flush with our windows we use ⅜ plywood 2¼" wide for nailing flange.
Many window installation videos use shims under the sill, and even behind the front flange at the sill, for drainage. Did you skip this internationally?
This is what I call a perfect instructional video. The carpenter explains each component’s function with absolute clarity. I know a gem when I see one. Thank you for this video. 🙏
Ten years on and still (when using the technique on the right side of the window) one of the best videos on creating a highly water resistant window installation.
Best new construction flanged window installation tutorial on UA-cam. As a former carpenter, it had been too many years since I had installed a window and forgotten a few of the steps, this video makes everything clear and concise. I really feel sorry for anyone who misses this video, I must’ve watched over 100 video clips before I found this one, and I almost can’t believe how many people are misinformed and give the wrong advice..?
100%. I like the left side way better than the right side. Wrapping it 1/2 way on the 2x4.
Been watching a lot of videos on window installation. Anyone can figure it out but to do it right takes knowledge and experience. And if not done right you'll just cause yourself more problems in the future. Roofing, siding, windows and doors are meant to keep the elements out (obviously) but if not done right you'll just introduce elements to the framing of the house and will slowly rot and cause havoc and money. Great video, best one I've seen on window installation. Great channel.
I've seen dozens of videos now online of people flashing windows horribly, and this is the first time I've seen a guy and I *know* he knows what he's talking about because he explains in excellent simplicity exactly why each thing is done that way.
It’s such a pleasure to watch a well-prepared presentation by a professional who cares about quality work. Thanks a million.
Hands down, one of the best videos demonstrating a proper, water tight, window instalation.
This guy is amazing. Best install I’ve ever seen. Triple water protection. Smart as a whip this guy!!!
The most comprehensive window installation video I have ever seen. 11 out of 10 !!!
I would like to thank Rick Arnold for educating me in installing a window the correct way. I fully agree with others here that this is the proper way of doing a proper job. Wish all our contractors were as dedicated to their work as Rick.
I watch a ton of videos and I promise this is the best most concise video that made so much sense I’m trying to figure out how I didn’t already know! Awesome video, instant training resource!
Outstanding. Watched a few other window installation videos before this and was flabbergasted at the complete lack of knowledge and skill as well as improper installations. This is absolutely perfect. Exceptional instructional video.
I just installed 3 windows & have 12 more to go, at least now I will have 12 windows right! This is a great "How To" video, thank you very much!
That's called a disgrace since he left out the bottom horizontal flashing under the side pieces and over the house wrap. Look at the exposed wood! This is shocking after the first part with correct details
One thing I would add is a horizontal piece of quality tar paper across the bottom before starting this process. As he discribes you always want to direct water away. With this piece at the bottom you can direct any water coming down the sides of the window between the window and trim/siding, out over the siding below, and trim off what shows after the siding is installed. It’s not as easy with vinyl siding, but can be done. I’m not a fan of house wraps, since it covers the whole wall from top to bottom, and when siding multiple holes will penetrate through leaving a spot for water to eventually get in. I have always been a firm believer of installing siding paper/house wrap in stages and have it come out over the top of the siding, overlapping the siding and paper/wrap. This directs water away. Siding is not water proof, and will always find a way in, but the more you can do to direct water away helps. Also lessons the chance of water damage/rot to the sheathing and framing later on.
Thank you for outright saying the two methods are OK. I noticed the different methods on the other videos. As a DIY, I wasn't sure if one way was wrong. I also like your easy explanation or reasoning on why it is done a certain way (how water can enter). Based on your years of experience and obvious knowledge, I was kinda hoping you would hint on what method you like better (1) house wrap around jams with caulking on house wrap or (2) cut back house wrap and caulking on wood. I am leaning on caulking on wood. Great Video - Thank you!!!
Professional, succinct, easy to follow and extremely helpful. I hired a brother-in-law to replace all of my windows in 2007...huge mistake.
This was the best video on how to install a window that I have seen. Well done, good simple instructions and sensible explanations. So glad I watched it.
This is fantastic. This man is a pro and everything he did and said makes perfect sense. Well done
Excellent instruction and detail. I need to pull the doors and trim off my shop to fix a leak. This helped me figure out what I did wrong.
Probably don't fit well with production government projects works.
what a great video, even 8 years later. wasn't sure about the house wrap with the new build i am doing and this explained it perfectly. thank you. hope you're doing well here in the end of 2021
Finally someone that know how to do it. I’ve watched a dozen guys that say their way is best and all were not totally right. I prefer the way you did it on the right side. No way for water under the fabric to wick around and into the house or onto the wood frames.
This video is over 7 years old, BUT!! To this very day, this video is the BEST in its field, bar none! Great job!!
This one of the best instructional videos on UA-cam of how to properly install and flash a window.
THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST AND MOST CORRECT WAY TO PROPERLY FLASH WINDOWS. THANKS FOR THE ILLUSTRATION
@@RRaucina no it was taped before he put the window in. It's how we did commercial windows for years. Never a call back for that.
Excellent explanation, not only how to do it, but more importantly WHY.......great job, best vid on window install yet. Thank you
Good until he left out the critical horizontal bottom flashing! Even the ply is exposed. Bad information!
- This is the best window installation video I’ve found yet.
Great video. It best to learn from a pro. I'm having a home built and this is the kind of videos I learn from. Good job Rick!
Nice video thanks. This is probably the most complete video I’ve seen. Attention to details such as overlapping the gap on the sides with the tape and adding a bead of sealant before adding the drip pan.
I'm looking for a company to replace 9 windows and this is a good video to save so when the time comes I can make sure the company does the installation this way. I'm glad we have consumer complaint pages on line now I think it really helps.
Just get a permit and the inspector will make sure it's done right.
Seriously, how does this video get 33 down votes?!?! This is absolutely the correct and proper way to install and flash a new construction window
josh w not bad but I would have put flashing behind the right side of the window fin with poleurthine under it ,
This is not the best way...before folding over the window pan ,first put a piece of vycor or similar across the opening extending by each side about 6”..using vycor.(9”) you can adhere the top half (4 1/2”) to the wall leaving the paper on the bottom half..then fold the pan over the vycor...why ? Because you want to tuck your sidewall under this vycor then seal it over your sidewall...why ? So any water drains out over the shingles not Behind them.......also the drip cap should go on before the top seal is applied.....nice try but I’ll stick with our system,no leaks 35yrs.........there’s more
exactly people are weird
Well looks like these 2, 33 dislikes appeared on your comment. "This is not the best way" ... nothing to show his way. Some folks are a critique but never shows anything to be critiqued. smdh
It should have 923,000 down votes because it is incorrect. He did not place a horizontal flashing under the bottom of the window before the side pieces! Bad!
Windows done this way will never have a leak. Sure, there are different ways of doing things that may be just as good, but I'd be giving this guy a pretty nice tip at the end of the job.
He makes so many references to the "tape" but doesn't tell what kind of tape he is using ..... duck tape??
@@davidgates1044 He is using flashing tape, which you can get in different widths. There are several brands that make it (Typar, Resisto, IKO, and others) but he is using Typar flexible flashing tape in the video.
@@davidgates1044 protecto super stick flashing tape works great.
There it is ! No more secrets, explains the waterfall effect and venting , sealing, I call this TOP NOTCH !!!! Great job...tell me more !
Holy CRAP. That was possibly the best demonstrated, best explained, and best lit(because that matters too) window installation video I've seen. KUDOS.
There are some comments I've read that are critical or offer alternatives, and that's great help to make everyone better and more informed. Sharing a link in a comment to that alternative video would be helpful to all.
We all get better together. That's how dad did it. That's how NASA does it. And, it's worked out pretty well so far. (Tony Stark omaj)
The way we do it is similar, except we use peel and stick around the window before the window goes in, the another around the window like he did after its in place. We probably do it like this because were in Canada BC, it can get really wet here.
We also never peel off the plastic/paper off the back of peelnstick all at once like he did. We hold it up (unpeeled) first to see how its going to fit, and either get someone to hold it or roll it up and peel it as its placed. This ensures it wont stick to itself and leaves no creases. If we're folding it, sometimes depending on the length, we'll score the paper/plastic peel so we can leave the fold's peel on and unpeel it after, again this is to ensure it doesnt stick to itself and or crease.
KewlCrayon Question about the first layer of peel and stick. Do you cut the housewrap flush with the jamb (i.e. don't wrap it in at all) then put the peel and stick around the corner bridging between the housewrap and the framing, so the peel and stick is "bent" 90 degrees? That's what I am thinking of doing for the jambs. Seems like that way no water will every get into the window opening from behind the housewrap, especially considering I have stucco and will be using two layers of house wrap. I live in Manitoba and don't get nearly as much rain as BC, but my walls are still rotting from poor window installations.
+Blake Holowick Not sure if you have already put on the stucco, but this blog post might be useful to help prevent rot by using a ventilated rainscreen gap behind stucco: www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/install-stucco-right-include-air-gap
I've learned a lot from the Green Building Advisor site. Best of luck.
Thanks so much Rick, I've always wanted to know how to do this the correct way, and your video is spot on. I've had some high wind and rain hitting in my windows and this technique is fantastic. Thanks again.
Thank you! Excellent....Most installers are always in such a rush and don't really care about a proper installation.... Well Done!
Thank you for a video. I think this is the best instructional video on window install on the net. "Professionals" that installed windows in my house never water proved the frame/window. Video super helpful!
The best video I have seen installing a widow. And I have watched quite a few. Explain everything great!!!
This is the best video I've seen on window installation. Thank you so very much!!!
Dear sir, can you give me the name of the sealer that you use to install the window? Thanks
Whelp, best demonstration video I've watched over the last 3 hours.
Most Helpful....I'm replacing a French Door with a window....and wanted to make sure I install, insulate and seal it properly. Very easy to understand. Thanks!
Thank you! This is the best new window installation video I have found. So grateful for coming across it!
In Oz, we dont wrap and seal our houses near this, I wish we did. One thing though, our drip caps usually over lap the edge of the window by 1-2 inches (each side) Notch the cladding(siding) to suit. It is at these corners, that driving rain is most likely to penetrate.
Good video btw.
i know its been 7 years since you made this comment and probably forgot all about it, but thats a good tip from you
If the bottom part of the window is not seal the wind can froce some water in!!!! How you prevent that??
Great installation! I would have liked to have seen the window being shimmed up on the inside prior to leveling. As to allow for installing minimal expansion spray foam around the perimeter of the window frame and rough framing.
There are now better products than spray foam for inside. Foam can absorb moisture.
Ty for this comment.. I was thinking same thing .. this install is perfect.. I myself tho like to put a carpenter pencil on sill both left and right to bring it up approximately 1/4 "ish for "chinking.". (insulation) being spray foam or similar
So the trim goes on the drip pan? I am doing this today and wondering how the pvc trim that I bought attaches on top of the window. The window has channels for trim and the drip cap is going to cover that channel.
Did you ever find an answer to this question?
@@travisburch4342 unfortunately no. I mean, I think I know the answer but it didn't work with my setup so I had to skip on the drip sheild. You need the space to work with and the appropriate drip guard to make it work. Check out matt risengers build science channel, he deals with it too. Good luck!
@@voiceofREASONS I wonder if this answers the question? ua-cam.com/video/DGmLFvZ7Jg0/v-deo.html
@@travisburch4342 I watched that and it freaked me out lol. I don't have those tools or skill set. Might have been after that vid that I punted on the drip pan lol
@@voiceofREASONS haha I hear you! Does it make sense to put the trim under the drip pan in your installs? (Or I guess you could say the drip pan on top of the trim)
Can you tell me if I can install a window slider that is 5'x 40" on on a sun porch. I have 4 windows to install. I got these windows as new construction. I have 23 feet across the sun porch to work with. I brought these windows with out a nailing flange. What will I need to do the same job you are doing. I',m working on the second floor. My height is almost 10 ft. Because its on the weather side, would I need treated lumber for the framing and would I use 2x4's or 2x6's. Thanks, I hope you reply to me.
One of the best window flashing systems. Top job. Cheers from Michael. Australia.
That was fantastic and well spoken .... I learned more from this video then any other .... Well done.
The detailed information and the explanation of those details are very helpful. Thanks for posting this instructional video. It will help me on my backyard shed project.
I am curious as to why the flashing tape at the bottom of the window drains behind the house wrap ? Thanks for what you do.
Hey Rick, I know this video has been out for quite sometime but I REALLY appreciate you sharing your expertise. I have now confidently put in 3 windows while carefully following your instructions. I have saved this video for review every time I begin to replace a window. The video is very well done and appreciate all the step-by-step tips and comparison of different methods. Thanks again! Jeff-Seattle/Tacoma, WA
Nice work on the brake i must admit the oil ports. Confused me at first as i was wondering why you. Were. Putting counter screws in the middle of a hinge originally. Looks like you got pretty good bends and that was one of the best waterproofing. Ive seen i did residential construction for a few years, and some renovation work its amazing how many crappy flashing jobs. Have been done on windows that eventually lead to mold and lots of rot as well as the water usually attracted termites that ive seen do structual damage. In older homes that didnt have todays pressure treated sill plates on the concrete unfortunately one of them was a place i bought and discovered many years later luckily it was a Condominium and that fell under the Associations responsibility to repair all because of a crappy window installation being the culprit they went after the builder but it was past the 20 year warranty they had so insurance picked up some of the costs and the Association had to pay te remaining amount
This is a far better technique and presentation than the way I was taught on the job. I have some questions. If one checks for plumb level and square, what can one do if one of those measures is out of whack? If the window is square and level, what is to be done if it is also out of plumb? Another, perhaps unrelated question, is a head scrather that I have noticed on two recent jobs: I installed a double hung window that I measured to be plumb, level and square, the side window frames were straight and the bottom sash was level with the sill and had a uniform gap with the frame and operated smoothly. Yet, the top sash was cocked relative to the bottom sash enough to be noticed by a homeowner. What is going on?
I know I'm late to this party with this answer.. but assuming everything you said was absolutely accurate then the window is not perfectly manufactured- one of the jambs is a little longer/shorter than it should be, probably because it was not drawn up completely when the unit was fastened together. All it takes is a blob of butyl sealant in the corner to throw off the length. . You can tolerate a little bit of "off" here (< 1/8"-ish is about all however). As long as everything is operating and not leaking it'll be OK and the trim carpenter can make it look good. I've installed tons of all kinds of windows where this was the case... heat-welded vinyl... fancy high-end clad/wood units... slight imperfections are the norm not the exception. That's why I mark the center of the RO top and bottom... the center of the unit top and bottom, and start by aligning those marks. If the window sill is dead level and the center marks are aligned, the bottom sash should close correctly, and 9 times out of 10 everything else will be OK too, even if slightly "off" (1/32" out of plumb in 4' usually won't matter). But always check ALL the operation before nailing off the unit.
Thanks fro the video. Nice job. There were a couple of things though. First, you left the building wrap at the bottom of the window open. You mentioned something about starting at the bottom and working up but nothing was done to seal the paper on the bottom of the window. Seems to me that the sill pan should have lapped the building paper. Second, the window was placed directly on the rough sill rather than on shims. This leaves no room for foam insulation. Do you not need insulation there?
+Alan Eyre It's now the end of April and these questions are still not answered. Can someone with expertise answer them? Now I have the same questions.
Anderson Windows ask you to leave the bottom open. Thought behind it is if water gets behind it has a way to get out. Similar to weeping holes. I also agree about the insulation. There should have been a slight gap.
seems you can't leave exposed osb on the bottom like that. water will get behind the tyvek and rot the osb. i'm guessing the tyvek needed to be cut exactly flush with the rough framing. then, the sill flashing would adhere to / be on top of the tyvek down there.
looking at it again, what i thought was exposed osb is actually the tape. so there is no exposed osb at the bottom. another thing: around here we use metal drip cap. would have been nice if he talked about the different types of drip cap out there. also, give us some manufacture names of "sealant" he used? does he mean polyurethane? or does he want 100% silicone?
Would it be possible to eliminate the first layer of flashing tape behind the drip cap so there is once 1 layer. Seems like overkill? Great video Rick
No because you're flashing the nailing flange with that piece behind the drip cap
Thank you! Mine will be (4) 2x3 shed window installations. The drawing sure falls short of these details. UA-cam is my how to go to! I'll now be able to do a better installation.
Very good job! I anticipate having to replace some windows on a new construction home. The windows are Anderson Silverline. Told not very good. This approach will leave me with peace of mind. Thanks
Great video! I have a couple of questions. What happens below the window? That part doesn't look complete, there is a gap between the house wrap and the window opening. Also is there a 2nd video that shows how the cladding integrates with the window frame? Thanks!
Thank you. This is a great way to do this because you can keep the house protected if you are waiting for your windows to arrive. I saw that you put a nail in every hole on the window flange, and i got concerned because I generally put nails in the corners and then about one every 6 inches every were else. so should i not do that
i would typically build out the rough opening with 5/4x3" stock so the window is on correct plane. this will entail new interior trim but it is the easiest way to flash correctly outside. use unfaced rigid insulation and do not tape the seams if you plan on using a housewrap over that. now that your flange is on correct plane flash exactely as the video shows
Best one I've seen yet, thanks Rick! I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. If installing 1" T&G Insulation over the existing sheathing along with new windows, does the house wrap still go on first, over the sheathing, or does it go over the insulation, after the windows are installed?
John Bottensek I too would like to see an answer.
Do you have a rag handy to wipe off the sealant on your stabila? Nice video.
you know I was thinking the same thing? Expensive level there boss
Rick, would you tape over the holes from stapling the top flap up?
Pretty good video, only if vinyl siding is going over it. I install almost the same way, except, I use wood siding. And for shingles and claps, the side pieces need to not be adhered and placed on top of shingles below the window to direct water to the top of the siding not behind it. In order to do this, I use a piece of tar paper or aluminum flashing on the bottom before the flashing tape and the sides can get adhered to that, creating a fully splined window
I notice he’s using some sort of flange sealant. I have never heard of this. He’s not using normal window door siding sealant. What is the product he’s using?
Any non generic oil base silicone is sufficient
So, what about the bottom. Couldn't water get between the sheathing and housewrap? Or, are you assuming that it would run out to the bottom?
Thank you...thank YOU. It is great to see new products which makes sense and how they are being used.
Great video. I wish our installer had seen this. We had new PVC windows installed - replacements with 2" brickmould/1" nose sill with hidden nailing channel under a pull off/push on cap, not retrofit, into our stucco sided home. The installer did not seal under the drip cap above the window and in fact, slit it (with snips back to the house for who knows what reason) and folded a section back so that the bottom edge of it actually rests on top of the window instead of extending out as a drip cap should. I also do not believe that any sealant was applied to the backside of the brickmould (Canadian spelling). I am worried about rain hitting that wall and allowing water to penetrate the wall cavity. We have contacted the company that we went through for the installer but are not sure a replacement installer will be much better. Two windows have drip caps...one damaged as mentioned. The other windows do not have drip caps installed at all. Is there a way install a new drip cap to an already sided house?
This is a secondary solution to your problem:
1.Remove the top window trim.
2.slide the flashing/ drip cap under the siding above the window.
3. Replace the top trim piece under the drip cap.
4. Re-caulk/seal above/between the siding & drip cap union.
That would be the only way I would think to make it work without removing the whole window and starting over.
Wish I could afford those products you have there, also my sheathing is rigid foam, not so sure the window would fasten as well, also worry the cheaper tape I have to use might not adhere so well to the foam (without priming)... but I like seeing all of the options out there. Nice job.
I did a lot of research and watched many videos on properly flashing and
installing new windows. Everything is perfect and was tone to a "T" as
you did here. I installed my first 4 windows, two of which are under a
porch roof so they will not even be exposed to weather. After doing the
first four I realized I forgot a very important part, I forgot to
silicone the nailing flange before nailing in the window. I know this is
crucial. So my question is should I take the window out or since they
have been properly flashed should they be ok? Thanks
did you take the windows back out? if not really exposed to weather i'd just assume use a good elastomeric caulk around the trim, instead of regular caulk, to repel water from your hose.
I been remodelling for 45 years. Don't get paranoid if the windows are under a porch unless you live in a hurricane or tornado zones where the wind and rain come at you completely sideways. This stuff is sponsored by the people who want to sell you all the materials...think about that!!! it's called PROFIT motivated brainwashing.
What a superb video. Very well done indeed. I'm very grateful.
Best step-by-step video I have seen yet! Thank you. I think the negative 👎🏼 voters must be other YouTubing contractors or something....
thank you... best video on the subject...
Thank you and this is very helpful for DYI project I am working on.
I have never seen flange sealant for sale anywhere,where would you get it?
Watched a dozen installation vids, this is by far, the best.
Thank you, brother.
MERRY Christmas/Happy and Healthy New Year
Awesome skills,thanx for your time ,its always nice to see someone do a proper job!
Can I do the same sort of prep work on an old home where we are taking out windows down to the rough opening, re squaring and prepping for window reinstallment? We have access to the siding (old asphalt). I'd like to make it as waterproof & moisture proof as possible. This seems the best way.
Thank you for the video. I found this very useful. I will be able to install my windows in my remodel with confidence.
How would you flash a window in the tropics? In tropical humidity, adhesives do not last very long.
Good question, I'm in humid hot Houston and was wondering if windows are installed the same way as this video.
@@nholt I don't think you need to worry. I imagine Texas is relatively dry compared to the tropics. I live in Bali.New sneakers here only last a few months before they fall apart for example.
Why are we not framing the bottom sill with a small slope
Thanks for posting. I’m a diy-er, so this is a huge help. I was about to make a series of mistakes! 😳
Very professional and detailed. Just one question. I noticed you didn't do anything to the bottom of the window regarding taping, etc. after putting it in. Is that to allow water to escape off of the sill tile you installed and not be trapped?
I noticed the same thing. Everything else seemed perfect but I was scratching my head about that. Did you ever get an answer as to why?
What about the bottom of the window? The house wrap is completely lose and ripe for water penitration?
Thank you, sir! I feel much more confident to be installing my windows now. This was extremely helpful and well done.
Refreshing to see it being done correctly, don't see this as much as you used too.... Great Job!
Valuable Window install instruction. Thank you. Cliff
if you eliminate the top cap layer of flashing tape water can still get in through the nail holes. its the whole point behind bituminous flashing. the metal cap flashing stops water from sitting on top of the brick mold then creeping up behind the flashing tape in a freeze thaw cycle
What if you're int he south and don't have a freeze thaw cycle?
One thing I liked about this guy is he said check with the window manufacturer. Seen a bunch of window projects on youtube and while many are acceptable when I see what window they are installing I realized its not per the directions. First and formost read the window directions for installation.
So what do you do when you use new replacement windows on an old house and you have to rip out rotten molding around window. Do you tape under the new wood or on top? The siding will be replaced as well with a layer of 1/2 inch ridged foam
Great video. I did notice the tape you stuck the building wrap to the jam with is not likely made for wood adhesion and will certainly come off in short order. I think if that was really a concern one would have to use flashing tape not building wrap tape. That's my only thought this was the best video after watching about 15 to refresh myself on the process. Thanks
you should list all the materials you used in this video. it would be much appreciated. thank you!
Can you make a video with window build outs. Here we use Mitten foam after the typar, in order for our siding too be flush with our windows we use ⅜ plywood 2¼" wide for nailing flange.
Well done. I want to see more of his videos. Great explanations. A real pro! Thank you.
Great video! Clearly, he's an expert with 30 years of experience
Many window installation videos use shims under the sill, and even behind the front flange at the sill, for drainage. Did you skip this internationally?
he used that angled piece of siding instead
marc dec yes, but many still use shims on top of the angled sill.
marc dec one of many
ua-cam.com/video/v2bzfpRgCEA/v-deo.html
Nice install, well done. If I may add, when installing the metal flashing, bend end dams into the flashing to catch wind driven rain. Cheers.
I installed my first window today after watching this video. Thank you!