Watch all this guy's videos. I went from having no skills to adding an extension to my house, numerous decks, cool garden shed and a bathroom re model. All thanks the Shannon. Brilliant
I've been an installer for over 20 years, and it is obvious that the man in this video knows what he's doing. I have always gone with at least 6" flashing paper, all the way to 12" flashing paper. I would have gone with a 12" flashing paper for the sill, instead of using the 3 separate pieces, but each installer has their own preference. And I suppose it depends on the supplies you have to work with. But I think that this installer did a great job of going step by step on this installation process
As a real window man I use nailfin windows in wood openings. And also I overlap the tyvek over the top of the fin at the top so water naturally flows down.
And a tar based fin tape. But I install hurricane Miami- Dade county approved windows in multi-million dollar homes in florida. which has higher construction standards then most of the country
Hey guys, just want to thank you. We live in a lazy society. Information like this really empowers people and helps them understand how to work with their hands. You're doing a great thing!
I've been in construction since late 2007..I've done countless window installations but I'm someone who knows u can almost always improve and of course i don't know everything which is why I watch videos like this .. sometimes it seems UA-cam is just a bunch of mindless entertainment but videos and channels like this remind me it's made the spread of knowledge so much easier...i appreciate the videos and all the knowledge man i still can't believe all of this is Free..it really is a godsend for people like me that have a voracious appetite to learn...what's your accent if u don't mind me asking
im audi and vw master tech 14 years in automotive; had no real clue with any construction, windows, siding, carpentry etc. Shannon just makes everything look easy; simplifies everything and explains all the details so well. A true professional; best construction videos on youtube hands down. If you wanna learn the right way to do things watch his videos.
It’s a pleasure watching a true profession working and taking the care to do a magnificent job. I wish there were more out there like you Shannon, God bless.
Thank you so much. I'm not a carpenter but like to take on projects myself. I live in Montana and decided to put a new window in a room that didn't have one. I did all the cutting, framing and installing the window. Your video was the perfect instruction. You're a great teacher!
Shannon I have watched most of your videos and I can't express enough how helpful your videos are. Recently I have tried to do my own projects around the house and building my own 36x14 shed/patio...and without your videos I don't know how I would have done it. You are very good at explaining each step and positioning a camera to get the best angle for us to see everything you do. The more I watch your videos the simpler my projects are. I wish I can work with you for couple of months and get better at home improvements. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us!
I’m so glad I found this video. I’m turning a 15’x23’ shed on my parents property into a studio apartment. Everything has to be taken down to the studs and replaced, and I’m doing it all myself with some help from my dad. Every other window installation video I have seen has so much arguing over the “correct” way to install windows: how to cut the house wrap, where to put the tar tape, where to put the caulk/silicone, where to nail or screw, everything. It’s infuriating that people are so negative I’m definitely saving this for when I get ready to install my new windows!
With the nailing flange style window, install the bottom membrane and corner flashing like I have shown, then install a beed of silicone all the way around the opening and install the window and fasten it in place using shingle nails.then apply the membrane on the sides overlapping onto the nailing flange and covering the nails and holes. Next do the same for the header membrane. Personally would not skip the housewrap but seeing as you are using foam you should be ok but please tape the joints
You do such a great job explaining this stuff. It is refreshing to see a true craftsman who cares about his methods and doing it right the first time. Thank you so much.
Most times that you get water penetrating the exterior finish, it is around windows and doors. The membrane is used in only those areas to prevent it from entering the opening and getting into the wall space.If you use only house wrap you can't get a really tight seal.
Hey Shannon. I have a question about installing an old anderson awning window install. There is no nail fin on it to secure it in place. I watched a European video that showed metal straps to install to the frame and thought that would be easier but I haven't found a place to get them. Other videos showed drilling holes through the side frames of the window through the shims and into the window frame. Do you recommend that or have a video for installing older windows? Any suggestions? We're over our heads but we're still going to do it. I trust your expertise and always use your site for our projects. And we've always seen success! Help! Please.
Omg I'm glad that I have found this video. Because from the outside I can see the drywall exposed and I'm scared that's something is going to get in. This gives me relieve .
Great video! Awesome lesson on lapping and flashing for a window or door which includes brickmold trim in lieu of a nailing flange. I learned it a little different, i.e. back-flashing and for-flashing the brickmold, but this method works well too. However, I disagree with applying silicone and screws on the bottom rail. The bottom should remain completely free of sealant and screw penetrations. I also use a piece of beveled siding under the sill pan to create a drainage slope. As a renovator I see lots of failures from this issue.
I leave two small areas of silicone missing to allow drainage.No silicone at all is a good idea. On a small window like this I could see not using nay screws but on a wider window I would not be comfortable leaving them out. The bevel siding is good also. I generally keep a few pieces after doing removal jobs to use for this but I do not always have any around. I frame my sills sloped to the exterior slightly like in this case. Thanks for you comments
I must say that l am from europe and we have totaly different types of windows. Also different types of instalations. Very good video. Much easier than our window instalation. God bless you.
Shannon, thank you greatly for these videos. I installed 5 windows years ago using this video and they still look perfect. Came back for a refresher while I do 3 more.
This man is the real deal ‼️ I hate watching long videos or Either I get bored but watching your videos are amazing , you grab my attention from how perfect you give informative advice , keep on doing what you’re great at , Thank you
Bless you man I just recently joined a construction company Dallago Corporations and this is very useful, I learned a lot from your videos, don't know why people disliked It but it's a major help and very useful Knowledge
With the quality of contractors going down rapidly, instructional videos like these can help DIYers to tackle work with professional results. Thank you
I have watched more than one of your videos and you are so thorough with all the necessary and even extra information shared it is outstanding! You are a savior for us DIY people and I salute you. You should have your own TV show. Good Karma to you and your family - Thank you for all you have posted. Karl G. - from Portland, OR.
Great instruction. Should have watched this this morning. I am installing these same windows today in my 1912 house. They are quiet rigid and strong. 3 of 9 done. But the two 3 and half foot wide by 5 foot original single pane tradihional windows with top stained glass and restored storm windows are staying. When I insulate the outside, I will do it this way. Thanks!
Agreed that the flashing tape heals around the nails. But the pan is not a good place for nails. They're just not necessary here... and adhesives do fail. In any case, it's a good install. Much better than what most people would do. I only mentioned it as the one thing I would do differently. No big deal. Thanks again Shannon for a great video.
I was going to hire someone to install a window for me, but after viewing your video I think I'm going to give it a shot myself. Thanks for posting...very informative.
We did it a little different but basically the same. I like the screws, if your not experienced you can miss and hit the edges of window which scratches and dents it
Great video. I have just two comments: first, use a J-roller to really press that peel-and-stick down properly. Bare hands don't work well. Second, silicone sealant is a highly over-rated product that I never use. Try a sealant made for window installation. There are lots to choose from. Keep up the good work!
Great video. I just wish the men installing my windows 13 years ago put that Resist on my windows. I will be better prepared now that I have this fantastic information from you.Thank you.
Not sure what the problem is but I think it is on your end because this is working fine and no one else is complaining. Check you volume adjustment under the video box.
Thanks Shannon, This solution makes sense. I can still install the windows before adding the levelwall..It is an insulating product that is either 1/4 or 3/8" thick (not sure on the thickness) with a foil looking front on it. It is mainly to help flatten the wall behind the siding. Example Shingles or clapboard. In my case I'm getting rid of the old clapboard but the old sheathing boards are somewhat gapped and are of different thicknesses approximately 130 years old...Don't have much R value.
Another clear and straight forward tutorial, thanks so much Shannon. As a new student of construction, i really appreciate the extra elements you put in your videos, from the picture of the sloped sill, to the tidbits about alternative materials, and optional technique demonstrations. Also, I appreciate that you've begun to spend less time explaining and more time demonstrating. I learn the most when you speak as you go, and tend to fall asleep during speeches. Do you have any videos on decks with patio covers?
Overall a very interesting video. Just this week I replaced a ca1983 pvc horizontal slider with a modern crank out model. The house was clad with X90 and when I cut the siding away to expose the nailing fin I was surprised to find no rot and very minimal moisture penetration considering that we didn't have all the fancy moisture inhibitors of today. The temp was near freezing when I installed the window so I took the advice of another commenter and used polyethylene caulk to seal the window to the blueskin.
My main concern with this type of window installation is that the caulking is the only thing preventing the water intrusion. Especially on the top. I also don't see much use in cutting the paper back an extra inch, or using any primer.
Gregorio Mendoza instead of cutting out the square of the window, cut a “modified I” down the middle of the window and fold the paper in and around the studs, then tape as he does
Thanks Shannon, I am getting ready to build my first house with timber frame and looking forward to it. I am disabled so seeing how's it's done beforehand is helping me plan how to do it.
I have some big projects ahead and rather diy them. Have to install 3 windows, re-do the frame work cause the wood is rotten, dry wall and insulation, new sub-flooring in a room+bathroom floor, tiles, and the biggest task of them all is installing a brand new flat roof with L-walls around it. I see the roof will be a pain in the ass because there are 8 layers of rotten roof that'll need to be taken off. Deff will be going through many of your videos! very very insightful!
great job mate but i would recommend not nailing those shims/ spacers in the sill, you just added two holes in the flashing..love how you explain the job very clear and a pleasure to watch.
I was looking for Windows 10 installation and clicked here out of curiosity, but since he looks like he does his job well I'm dropping my like anyways.
Sounds good to me Shannon. I agree with your method...even though most people I know bring the house-wrap inside the frame. In fact, someone recently told me that the instructions on the product states to wrap it inside the frame ??? Your rationale seems sound though so I'm going with your method. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Shannon. First off, I like your videos and you do a real service to the DIY community. Thanks. As for cutting the away the house wrap on the window sides, I think this is ok, and possibly even a better way of doing it. However, putting nails through your shims is definitely not a good idea. You just put 2 holes in your pan. I also think there's benefit to keeping the house wrap on the sill of the window frame (i.e. cut the sides away but leave the bottom piece and wrap it over the sill first)
You can have the bottom-plate of all the windows done with treated lumber to help reduce any potential rot, in addition to what you’ve added in this video to your window.
I prefer no wrap on the interior of the opening so when I sprayfoam (insulate) around the windows I get a seal right from wood to window. No possibility of house wrap creating a void or air leak.
Hello, I did a lot of research and watched many videos on properly flashing and installing new windows. Everything is perfect and was tone to a "T" as you did here. I installed my first 4 windows, two of which are under a porch roof so they will not even be exposed to weather. After doing the first four I realized I forgot a very important part, I forgot to silicone the nailing flange before nailing in the window. I know this is crucial. So my question is should I take the window out or since they have been properly flashed should they be ok? Thanks
+mpmontford If your windows have a nailing flange then this is the wrong video for that type of window . So if you actually just posted on the wrong video but actually sealed used the membrane properly for a nailing flange window you should be ok without the silicone. Please use my forum for any other questions.
Ya ,sorry I should have stated that if you are using nailing flange windows then the strips are better over the flange on sides and top. I would go back and put it over the windows you have done. I never use nailing flanges so I was not thinking about it. Do the sides first then the top.
I know it doesn't matter. When I first went into construction the remodeler I worked for would always make sure the lettering on the house wrap was right side up. To this day it still bugs me to see it upside down. Great video BTW
Nice job good detail in all the things that will add many years and keep the issues away with a bad install. Great content even for the experienced window installer there is something here for you !
Thanks for the video! I'm confused by one spot with the diagonal cuts on the housing wrap on the bottom corners. They didn't serve any purpose that I caught, while I understood the top diagonal cuts allowed for shingling. Am I missing something with those bottom slits, or is it reasonable to not make those?
I was taught to check window square cause they will be hard to open and close if its out of square and they can be i was surprised by that fact myself once lol but I've seen so many way to waterproof every company I've worked for does it different lol but this is what I think it should be like some only do the bottom sili
great job, all your tips are very helpful for the homeowner or even the pros. What about window flashing on the top of the window installed before the top paper and typar flap are finished taped for proper water management. thanks
Never heard of that product ,but i'm assuming it is a insulation product. What I do is fur out the window opening the same thickness as the insulation then when i install the window it is the same as the insulation. You will have to take that into consideration when ordering windows as well so that the sills are wide enough. So if the insulation is 3/4" then I install 1x4 around the perimeter of opening. Install the insulation then butting it up to the 1x4.
Hey Shannon, I've been watching your videos lately and I've been very impressed. I'm a general contractor in south Texas and I was hoping you could shed some light on something for me. Why do homes up north have a double vapor barrier on exterior walls? For instance, why use house wrap on the exterior and plastic sheathing on the interior under the drywall? Is it because the insulation is not faced? We use faced insulation in the walls down here for the most part and it typically covers 100% of the wall/studs but it still seems breathable. And why go through the trouble of taping every hole? I suppose we want our homes to breathe a little more down here due to the low moisture and high heat and y'all want to trap heat and keep out moisture. But wouldn't that then make the wall cavities sweat and the double vapor barrier trap the moisture in the wall cavity with no where to go? I'm exhausted right now so hopefully I didn't miss a major point and wound up getting confused. Building envelopes being too tight can cause some serious problems (which has me running scared of spray foaming wall cavities btw). Anyways, I hope you can shed some light on the situation for me. Thanks!
This would be a great discussion in my forum. I'm sorry but I would like to have you go to the forum and re ask your questions, Sorry . From the forum more people can easily find it compared to here. Thank you www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Good stuff. Corner drips (at 5:00) would be more ideal if lapped over the lower house wrap. As is, whatever hits that corner pieces still has a chance to get behind the house wrap. Taping upper flap (at 20:00) would be more ideal if skip-taped. As is anything behind the house wrap (from above) gets trapped.
Shannon.....if a window opening is one inch larger (1/2" all around) then why do you have to put the rubber membrane around the opening? I'm using vinyl windows with NO FLANGE so I don't see the advantage to using the rubber membrane if the window will be shimmed a half inch all around and the gap filled with expanding foam. This is a storage shed and will have no interior walls or Tyvek wrap.....just paneling right over the studs on the outside.This is my first build and I'm learning everything on UA-cam. THANK YOU for taking the time to educate us newbies...:-)
I live on Long Island. The house has asbestos shingles and since those windows don't have a nailing fin, the install might be easier. When I described the window you installed, the lumber yard had no idea what window it could be.
Technically, this CAN be fixed in post as Barbara suggests, but the problem is beter resolved in future videos with a mic'd Shannon. Whether he's walking away from the camera, talking with his back to the camera, or talking in lower volumes as we all tend to do, Shannon's voice will be much more audible and clear. Having said that, thanks for the great video!
Seems like you need an update to your video. In a good portion of North America rain drain and exterior foam wrap necessitate bumping the windows out. In which case the flashing is much more complex. Most window manufacturers recommend not seating the fasteners to allow expansion and contraction. I don't see you emphasizing that even though you may be doing it. I highly recommend pan head screws so the next guy that replaces the window can do so easily. In my area with extreme rainfall and wind I always use a full layer around the rough opening first, shingle lapped, then come over the window also as you show. Good videos. Take care. Doug
Thank you so much for making this show! I have learned so much from your videos, I have been using them while building a barn. It is going great, even learned how to put up siding on the last house we owned and sold it for a nice profit! Great work!
very informative:) here in b.c. canada we do it a lot different. your way sure seems like a large waste of peel and stick. as a framer I install windows quite frequently and my method is very different
Great vid. However, there is no head flashing. The window head will surely leak in time. And silicone will not stick to resisto or typar or vinyl. Since you are in Canada, next time use mulco flextra or mulco supraexpert. Those stick and have been field tested for more than 25 years.
i was watching a contracter building a new house and put the windows in. the windows already had a wood frame pre installed around it...and the contracter just place that into the hole on the wall for the window and its stick ona few flat sticks to keep it in place. its not done but, ever heard of that before?
What about security if this window can simply be unscrewed and removed from the outside? Are there no fixing points into the sides that cannot be accessed from the outside?
Watch all this guy's videos.
I went from having no skills to adding an extension to my house, numerous decks, cool garden shed and a bathroom re model.
All thanks the Shannon.
Brilliant
Big A nothing is more telling a teachers skill than a students approval!
Very nice
Big A ,
His videos are great.
Big A no
I've been an installer for over 20 years, and it is obvious that the man in this video knows what he's doing. I have always gone with at least 6" flashing paper, all the way to 12" flashing paper. I would have gone with a 12" flashing paper for the sill, instead of using the 3 separate pieces, but each installer has their own preference. And I suppose it depends on the supplies you have to work with. But I think that this installer did a great job of going step by step on this installation process
I was trying to install windows 10 now I'm here
same ;-;
Hahahahahahahahahahaha, that made my day.
😂😂
forgot to type 10 and here i am
Windows 10 makes these windows look easy
I'm a real window guy, 2 minutes into this video i knew I was watching a man who knows what he's doing... great video
As a real window man I use nailfin windows in wood openings. And also I overlap the tyvek over the top of the fin at the top so water naturally flows down.
And a tar based fin tape. But I install hurricane Miami- Dade county approved windows in multi-million dollar homes in florida. which has higher construction standards then most of the country
How much does a window guy make working for a company?
I can see through you guys😄
I'm a actual glazer and I hope your kidding this guy knows nothing
Hey guys, just want to thank you. We live in a lazy society. Information like this really empowers people and helps them understand how to work with their hands. You're doing a great thing!
I've been in construction since late 2007..I've done countless window installations but I'm someone who knows u can almost always improve and of course i don't know everything which is why I watch videos like this .. sometimes it seems UA-cam is just a bunch of mindless entertainment but videos and channels like this remind me it's made the spread of knowledge so much easier...i appreciate the videos and all the knowledge man i still can't believe all of this is Free..it really is a godsend for people like me that have a voracious appetite to learn...what's your accent if u don't mind me asking
If I am correct I believe he's from.up here in Canada
im audi and vw master tech 14 years in automotive; had no real clue with any construction, windows, siding, carpentry etc. Shannon just makes everything look easy; simplifies everything and explains all the details so well. A true professional; best construction videos on youtube hands down. If you wanna learn the right way to do things watch his videos.
My uncle is a vw tech too,Nissan and Honda aswell 😁😁
It’s a pleasure watching a true profession working and taking the care to do a magnificent job. I wish there were more out there like you Shannon, God bless.
This is one of the best instruction videos I've seen. Well done. No wasted time and thorough.
I really enjoy watching this guy. Explains everything. And isn’t afraid of sharing his skills/knowledge.
Awesome tip about wiping the back of the flange. Very important
Thank you so much. I'm not a carpenter but like to take on projects myself. I live in Montana and decided to put a new window in a room that didn't have one. I did all the cutting, framing and installing the window. Your video was the perfect instruction. You're a great teacher!
Also in Montana trying to build a house :)
Shannon
I have watched most of your videos and I can't express enough how helpful your videos are. Recently I have tried to do my own projects around the house and building my own 36x14 shed/patio...and without your videos I don't know how I would have done it. You are very good at explaining each step and positioning a camera to get the best angle for us to see everything you do. The more I watch your videos the simpler my projects are. I wish I can work with you for couple of months and get better at home improvements. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us!
This is exactly how I was taught to professionally install windows with exception to larger tar wrap on the bottom. Great video
I like his way of explaining. He's calm and easy spoken and just talks....simple and direct. Thank you for the video!!
I’m so glad I found this video. I’m turning a 15’x23’ shed on my parents property into a studio apartment.
Everything has to be taken down to the studs and replaced, and I’m doing it all myself with some help from my dad.
Every other window installation video I have seen has so much arguing over the “correct” way to install windows: how to cut the house wrap, where to put the tar tape, where to put the caulk/silicone, where to nail or screw, everything. It’s infuriating that people are so negative
I’m definitely saving this for when I get ready to install my new windows!
This is the best video on UA-cam for putting in a window. I scrolled through a lot of bad advice before finding this video.
With the nailing flange style window, install the bottom membrane and corner flashing like I have shown, then install a beed of silicone all the way around the opening and install the window and fasten it in place using shingle nails.then apply the membrane on the sides overlapping onto the nailing flange and covering the nails and holes. Next do the same for the header membrane. Personally would not skip the housewrap but seeing as you are using foam you should be ok but please tape the joints
You do such a great job explaining this stuff. It is refreshing to see a true craftsman who cares about his methods and doing it right the first time. Thank you so much.
Most times that you get water penetrating the exterior finish, it is around windows and doors. The membrane is used in only those areas to prevent it from entering the opening and getting into the wall space.If you use only house wrap you can't get a really tight seal.
Hey Shannon. I have a question about installing an old anderson awning window install. There is no nail fin on it to secure it in place. I watched a European video that showed metal straps to install to the frame and thought that would be easier but I haven't found a place to get them. Other videos showed drilling holes through the side frames of the window through the shims and into the window frame. Do you recommend that or have a video for installing older windows? Any suggestions? We're over our heads but we're still going to do it. I trust your expertise and always use your site for our projects. And we've always seen success! Help! Please.
Omg I'm glad that I have found this video. Because from the outside I can see the drywall exposed and I'm scared that's something is going to get in. This gives me relieve .
Great video! Awesome lesson on lapping and flashing for a window or door which includes brickmold trim in lieu of a nailing flange. I learned it a little different, i.e. back-flashing and for-flashing the brickmold, but this method works well too. However, I disagree with applying silicone and screws on the bottom rail. The bottom should remain completely free of sealant and screw penetrations. I also use a piece of beveled siding under the sill pan to create a drainage slope. As a renovator I see lots of failures from this issue.
I leave two small areas of silicone missing to allow drainage.No silicone at all is a good idea. On a small window like this I could see not using nay screws but on a wider window I would not be comfortable leaving them out. The bevel siding is good also. I generally keep a few pieces after doing removal jobs to use for this but I do not always have any around. I frame my sills sloped to the exterior slightly like in this case. Thanks for you comments
I must say that l am from europe and we have totaly different types of windows. Also different types of instalations. Very good video. Much easier than our window instalation. God bless you.
Shannon, thank you greatly for these videos. I installed 5 windows years ago using this video and they still look perfect. Came back for a refresher while I do 3 more.
You're very welcome!
Terrifically informative video. Thank you from someone who is a DIY-er of many years and still learning.
finally, an expert who knows how to do window install, especially the flashing. Damn good job.
This man is the real deal ‼️ I hate watching long videos or Either I get bored but watching your videos are amazing , you grab my attention from how perfect you give informative advice , keep on doing what you’re great at , Thank you
Bless you man I just recently joined a construction company Dallago Corporations and this is very useful, I learned a lot from your videos, don't know why people disliked It but it's a major help and very useful Knowledge
With the quality of contractors going down rapidly, instructional videos like these can help DIYers to tackle work with professional results. Thank you
My hubby did not use the tape on the window and the water came in *( now I m trying to show it to him and redo the work again. Thank you
I have watched more than one of your videos and you are so thorough with all the necessary and even extra information shared it is outstanding! You are a savior for us DIY people and I salute you. You should have your own TV show. Good Karma to you and your family - Thank you for all you have posted. Karl G. - from Portland, OR.
Great instruction. Should have watched this this morning. I am installing these same windows today in my 1912 house. They are quiet rigid and strong. 3 of 9 done. But the two 3 and half foot wide by 5 foot original single pane tradihional windows with top stained glass and restored storm windows are staying. When I insulate the outside, I will do it this way. Thanks!
Agreed that the flashing tape heals around the nails. But the pan is not a good place for nails. They're just not necessary here... and adhesives do fail. In any case, it's a good install. Much better than what most people would do. I only mentioned it as the one thing I would do differently. No big deal. Thanks again Shannon for a great video.
Very rarely do I comment on videos. But, this is an EXCELLENT video!! Very informative, clear and concise! Great job!!
Benjamin Logan f
I was going to hire someone to install a window for me, but after viewing your video I think I'm going to give it a shot myself. Thanks for posting...very informative.
good luck.
We did it a little different but basically the same. I like the screws, if your not experienced you can miss and hit the edges of window which scratches and dents it
California code the tyvek must wrap into the frame. so basically cut an x in the tyvek and wrap inside.
Great video. I have just two comments: first, use a J-roller to really press that peel-and-stick down properly. Bare hands don't work well. Second, silicone sealant is a highly over-rated product that I never use. Try a sealant made for window installation. There are lots to choose from. Keep up the good work!
Great video. I just wish the men installing my windows 13 years ago put that Resist on my windows. I will be better prepared now that I have this fantastic information from you.Thank you.
Took his time & kept my attention. I learned exactly what to do & what to use for the job. Great video! Thanks!
One of the best DIY videos on UA-cam no hype very educational
Not sure what the problem is but I think it is on your end because this is working fine and no one else is complaining. Check you volume adjustment under the video box.
Thanks Shannon,
This solution makes sense. I can still install the windows before adding the levelwall..It is an insulating product that is either 1/4 or 3/8" thick (not sure on the thickness) with a foil looking front on it.
It is mainly to help flatten the wall behind the siding. Example Shingles or clapboard. In my case I'm getting rid of the old clapboard but the old sheathing boards are somewhat gapped and are of different thicknesses approximately 130 years old...Don't have much R value.
This was so great not boarding like others I actually learned step by step and it’s gonna help me grow!!!
Another clear and straight forward tutorial, thanks so much Shannon. As a new student of construction, i really appreciate the extra elements you put in your videos, from the picture of the sloped sill, to the tidbits about alternative materials, and optional technique demonstrations. Also, I appreciate that you've begun to spend less time explaining and more time demonstrating. I learn the most when you speak as you go, and tend to fall asleep during speeches.
Do you have any videos on decks with patio covers?
+Daniel Hagan I'm sorry but our deck series does not look at covered decks.
Overall a very interesting video. Just this week I replaced a ca1983 pvc horizontal slider with a modern crank out model. The house was clad with X90 and when I cut the siding away to expose the nailing fin I was surprised to find no rot and very minimal moisture penetration considering that we didn't have all the fancy moisture inhibitors of today. The temp was near freezing when I installed the window so I took the advice of another commenter and used polyethylene caulk to seal the window to the blueskin.
glad it worked out well.
My main concern with this type of window installation is that the caulking is the only thing preventing the water intrusion. Especially on the top. I also don't see much use in cutting the paper back an extra inch, or using any primer.
How would you do it?
Gregorio Mendoza instead of cutting out the square of the window, cut a “modified I” down the middle of the window and fold the paper in and around the studs, then tape as he does
Thanks Shannon, I am getting ready to build my first house with timber frame and looking forward to it. I am disabled so seeing how's it's done beforehand is helping me plan how to do it.
This was the best video I've ever seen this man is a craftsman and his presentation was ex.
Shannon like I said before,you should be a vocational teacher,you explain stuff so well !!!!
Thanks for the video, I used my iPad to watch this video while I was outside installing the window, thanks
So far, the best window installation video ive seen! Thank you!!
I have some big projects ahead and rather diy them. Have to install 3 windows, re-do the frame work cause the wood is rotten, dry wall and insulation, new sub-flooring in a room+bathroom floor, tiles, and the biggest task of them all is installing a brand new flat roof with L-walls around it. I see the roof will be a pain in the ass because there are 8 layers of rotten roof that'll need to be taken off. Deff will be going through many of your videos! very very insightful!
You got some work ahead of you!
If you have 8 layers of roofing, you have BIGGER problems than the windows.
Thanks Shannon. I just realized I've been watching your vids for years
Thank you Shannon. You’re the man! 💪
My Husband & I just watched this video. Very impressed with how informative you were, 5 stars! Very helpful! Thank-you !
great job mate but i would recommend not nailing those shims/ spacers in the sill, you just added two holes in the flashing..love how you explain the job very clear and a pleasure to watch.
I was looking for Windows 10 installation and clicked here out of curiosity, but since he looks like he does his job well I'm dropping my like anyways.
Sounds good to me Shannon. I agree with your method...even though most people I know bring the house-wrap inside the frame. In fact, someone recently told me that the instructions on the product states to wrap it inside the frame ??? Your rationale seems sound though so I'm going with your method. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You can tell from his hand-eye coordination that this isn't his first rodeo. Great video.
Hi Shannon. First off, I like your videos and you do a real service to the DIY community. Thanks. As for cutting the away the house wrap on the window sides, I think this is ok, and possibly even a better way of doing it. However, putting nails through your shims is definitely not a good idea. You just put 2 holes in your pan. I also think there's benefit to keeping the house wrap on the sill of the window frame (i.e. cut the sides away but leave the bottom piece and wrap it over the sill first)
You can have the bottom-plate of all the windows done with treated lumber to help reduce any potential rot, in addition to what you’ve added in this video to your window.
It's interesting that some installers and manufacturers attach the house wrap into the opening and then use flashing.
I prefer no wrap on the interior of the opening so when I sprayfoam (insulate) around the windows I get a seal right from wood to window. No possibility of house wrap creating a void or air leak.
its always better to spend the extra buck if the job is done right... Good Job Shannon!!! Your the Man
Your videos helped me build my cabin. Thank you.
Hello,
I did a lot of research and watched many videos on properly flashing and installing new windows. Everything is perfect and was tone to a "T" as you did here. I installed my first 4 windows, two of which are under a porch roof so they will not even be exposed to weather. After doing the first four I realized I forgot a very important part, I forgot to silicone the nailing flange before nailing in the window. I know this is crucial. So my question is should I take the window out or since they have been properly flashed should they be ok? Thanks
+mpmontford If your windows have a nailing flange then this is the wrong video for that type of window . So if you actually just posted on the wrong video but actually sealed used the membrane properly for a nailing flange window you should be ok without the silicone. Please use my forum for any other questions.
This is the only video I found that was thorough and easy to follow. Great job!
Ya ,sorry I should have stated that if you are using nailing flange windows then the strips are better over the flange on sides and top. I would go back and put it over the windows you have done. I never use nailing flanges so I was not thinking about it. Do the sides first then the top.
I know it doesn't matter. When I first went into construction the remodeler I worked for would always make sure the lettering on the house wrap was right side up. To this day it still bugs me to see it upside down. Great video BTW
True. I was thinking of the house wrap as blocking all moisture which is an assumption probably not worth taking.
Nice job good detail in all the things that will add many years and keep the issues away with a bad install. Great content even for the experienced window installer there is something here for you !
Would of liked to see the finished wall but good job. Never worked with pvc before so very helpful.
How do you square the window if it was not square.? (17:29) You are the best… God given talent….
Usually you can squeeze the longest diagonal a little . In all honestly I can't remember the last time I came across one that was not square.
This guy is my favorite to learn from.
Thanks for the video! I'm confused by one spot with the diagonal cuts on the housing wrap on the bottom corners. They didn't serve any purpose that I caught, while I understood the top diagonal cuts allowed for shingling. Am I missing something with those bottom slits, or is it reasonable to not make those?
You are correct for this style of window those bottom ones are not needed.
Would be great to have a materials list with the videos, love to watch, always learn alot, thanks!
I was taught to check window square cause they will be hard to open and close if its out of square and they can be i was surprised by that fact myself once lol but I've seen so many way to waterproof every company I've worked for does it different lol but this is what I think it should be like some only do the bottom sili
great job, all your tips are very helpful for the homeowner or even the pros. What about window flashing on the top of the window installed before the top paper and typar flap are finished taped for proper water management. thanks
I do not add any window drip cap under the wrap. Make the seal then add the cap over it and then add another layer of membrane or tape.
The adhesive flashing tape when used with the primer with automatically heal's around the nails. It's designed with that in mind.
Great video, as always, Shannon. I really appreciate your clear presentation, video and audio quality.
Never heard of that product ,but i'm assuming it is a insulation product. What I do is fur out the window opening the same thickness as the insulation then when i install the window it is the same as the insulation. You will have to take that into consideration when ordering windows as well so that the sills are wide enough. So if the insulation is 3/4" then I install 1x4 around the perimeter of opening. Install the insulation then butting it up to the 1x4.
window10 is an operating system for a computer
Hey Shannon, I've been watching your videos lately and I've been very impressed. I'm a general contractor in south Texas and I was hoping you could shed some light on something for me. Why do homes up north have a double vapor barrier on exterior walls? For instance, why use house wrap on the exterior and plastic sheathing on the interior under the drywall? Is it because the insulation is not faced? We use faced insulation in the walls down here for the most part and it typically covers 100% of the wall/studs but it still seems breathable. And why go through the trouble of taping every hole? I suppose we want our homes to breathe a little more down here due to the low moisture and high heat and y'all want to trap heat and keep out moisture. But wouldn't that then make the wall cavities sweat and the double vapor barrier trap the moisture in the wall cavity with no where to go? I'm exhausted right now so hopefully I didn't miss a major point and wound up getting confused. Building envelopes being too tight can cause some serious problems (which has me running scared of spray foaming wall cavities btw). Anyways, I hope you can shed some light on the situation for me. Thanks!
This would be a great discussion in my forum. I'm sorry but I would like to have you go to the forum and re ask your questions, Sorry . From the forum more people can easily find it compared to here. Thank you
www.house-improvements.com/forums/
I install Windows myself also. For about 15 years. New buildings and also old ones. I also do the finishing jobs.
Good stuff. Corner drips (at 5:00) would be more ideal if lapped over the lower house wrap. As is, whatever hits that corner pieces still has a chance to get behind the house wrap. Taping upper flap (at 20:00) would be more ideal if skip-taped. As is anything behind the house wrap (from above) gets trapped.
Shannon.....if a window opening is one inch larger (1/2" all around) then why do you have to put the rubber membrane around the opening? I'm using vinyl windows with NO FLANGE so I don't see the advantage to using the rubber membrane if the window will be shimmed a half inch all around and the gap filled with expanding foam. This is a storage shed and will have no interior walls or Tyvek wrap.....just paneling right over the studs on the outside.This is my first build and I'm learning everything on UA-cam. THANK YOU for taking the time to educate us newbies...:-)
+heywood jablome Personally on a shed I would not worry about it.
505 guys figured they knew it all before.
I live on Long Island. The house has asbestos shingles and since those windows don't have a nailing fin, the install might be easier. When I described the window you installed, the lumber yard had no idea what window it could be.
Technically, this CAN be fixed in post as Barbara suggests, but the problem is beter resolved in future videos with a mic'd Shannon. Whether he's walking away from the camera, talking with his back to the camera, or talking in lower volumes as we all tend to do, Shannon's voice will be much more audible and clear. Having said that, thanks for the great video!
Seems like you need an update to your video. In a good portion of North America rain drain and exterior foam wrap necessitate bumping the windows out. In which case the flashing is much more complex. Most window manufacturers recommend not seating the fasteners to allow expansion and contraction. I don't see you emphasizing that even though you may be doing it. I highly recommend pan head screws so the next guy that replaces the window can do so easily. In my area with extreme rainfall and wind I always use a full layer around the rough opening first, shingle lapped, then come over the window also as you show. Good videos. Take care. Doug
Thank you so much for making this show! I have learned so much from your videos, I have been using them while building a barn. It is going great, even learned how to put up siding on the last house we owned and sold it for a nice profit! Great work!
@chris falkenberg , I read this to the tune of a bone thugs in harmony song, it went well. Mr bill collector. Thanks for being all that for me
very informative:) here in b.c. canada we do it a lot different. your way sure seems like a large waste of peel and stick. as a framer I install windows quite frequently and my method is very different
Nice job, and thorough explanation 👍
Thanks for explaining everything step by step. I appreciate it.
Great vid. However, there is no head flashing. The window head will surely leak in time. And silicone will not stick to resisto or typar or vinyl. Since you are in Canada, next time use mulco flextra or mulco supraexpert. Those stick and have been field tested for more than 25 years.
I have learn a lot from your video, from Garage Doors to Windows, Thanks for all the video.
i was watching a contracter building a new house and put the windows in. the windows already had a wood frame pre installed around it...and the contracter just place that into the hole on the wall for the window and its stick ona few flat sticks to keep it in place. its not done but, ever heard of that before?
No. I have not
Excellent Video. Easy to follow and a great job explaining why and how you did everything.
Thank you for posting.
You helped me a lot with the new house chores.
What about security if this window can simply be unscrewed and removed from the outside? Are there no fixing points into the sides that cannot be accessed from the outside?
Reviewing this as I am getting ready to install windows on the cabin now 😉