Great video, I am currently fixing issues with my house with window sill rot and framing rot due too what i believe were drunk house builders and town inspectors that must have been on vacation when they built my house. Anyway, I wish builders were like you who accually take pride in what they do.Love your video. thanks
A good thing to keep in mind is the rough opening specs for the window if using a clapboard at the bottom. If that opening is framed to your window manufacturers specs and the then you decided to add a clapboard to pitch the sill, the window will most likely not fit.
I agree - Clapboard is (if I remember correctly) 7/16 at the thickest edge. I don't know if you noticed but the top had, it looks like an inch of clearance too.. probably not to the manufacturers recommendation.. very good video though overall..
Very nice. Thanks. I haven't seen someone take the time to shingle the tape. I haven't done it in my applications, but it's probably something I'll do going forward.
hehj jake-you shifted from zip tape to prosecco r guard when you went inside ! No fair ! having said that, why no use the prossoco dam and fill material over the r guarded wood sill ??
In Canada at least that shit is like $90 a roll. It just cost you ~$50 to flash that one window. Flashing the jambs and top before the window even goes in seems like total overkill to me - does Huber recommend doing that?
Can you explain why did you cut the pre-installed zip tape in the middle top of the window? You could have left that in place and overlaid your flashing on top of that vertical tape on the sidewall?
When you switched to the inside there was some kind of pink/red sealant on the sill. Did I miss that part in somewhere the beginning? What is that? Also, the sealant to bridge the shims is unmarked and you didn't say what it was.
That is a different type of flashing. That is a fluid applied flashing that was probably done on the same mockup after they removed all the tapes and did that one in a different video (and then did the interior video clip afterwards to apply to both videos). It was most likely Prosoco Liquid Flash, but there are other brands as well. You can do either fluid applied or tape applied, but the goal is the same: get the WRB continuous and tie it to the window appropriately to keep everything air and watertight.
This guy cutting his x corners using the window sill like we all install windows and wrapping inside a controlled environment lol. If it summer I can’t get the flashing off my hands let along a window sill
I have watched a few videos on this ZIP system, and I haven't seen one address the application of siding. What good is all this sealing of every joint and ensuring the entire wall is homogeneous, when you are going to penetrate the wall hundreds of times with nails when siding is applied?
If you look in zip system installation guide starting on page 48 it goes over cladding including lap siding. I think it keeps it as long as any nail remains flush and doesn't penetrate more than 1/8" into the actual zip board. So if your nails are lying flush on top of say Hardie board siding you are not going to void zip warranty. Hope this helps.
Right off the bat you used the acronym "WRV" and then mentioned it a few more times. What does that represent? Also, when you move to the inside to insulate, there's a red bondo looking material that's coating the inside of the framing. You made no mention of that anywhere. Please explain.
That " red Bondo looking material" is the stretch tape it really looks like translucent grey after it's stretched in field. I think it may just be the lighting in studio making it appear red.
Why not tape the bottom and barricade the water at the exterior? In a high wind/driving rain situation where the house is under negative pressure, the water will be sucked into the house up under that flange and without a back damn it will drip down inside. I wish a company would come up with a way to air seal somewhere at the interior side of the window opening other than just caulking it. The spray foam insulates well but it’s not sealing out air in that negative pressure high wind coastal situation.
If you taped the bottom of the window, water would get trapped on the sill, there needs to be weep holes at least on the bottom flange to allow water to escape. There should be no water behind the siding to get driven up that bottom flange of the window, if so, there's bigger problems.
@@Box545x39 the window manufacturers require you to tape not only the flange but onto the frame so if water gets in to the point it needs letting out then the window itself failed. And again, the water will get sucked up under that untapped bottom flange if the house gets under negative pressure in a high wind. I’d rather fully barricade it at the shell.
@@CMbassin Any tape you put on the bottom would be behind the siding anyway. The sill is taped, the foam will keep water out of the house, the taped sill will allow the water top drain out from the sill.
old video and I'm not as familiar with zip as conventional tyvek but why would you wrap the flashing tape first on the inside before placing the window in on the top and sides? if water ever got between there wouldn't that lead it inside? also when the spray foam contracts it would pull the tape away from the wall creating a pocket. like I said I'm not familiar with the zip and I understand it has flashing tape over the outside again but just confused about the flashing tape first that faces inward on the window seals from above and the sides.
How is water going to find its way in if this is called good practice. From what I’ve seen in the 3videos I have watched is no one wants to take responsibility for anything just tape the daylights out of the entire house.
If you wanna be real... the WRB is established with the outer layer of PSA tape. Too much time and material is spent unnecessarily... its no wonder contruction has become so expensive.
This would all go a lot better if you would learn to use a small hand squeegee. Pushing it in with your hand and fingers is fraught with error and will beat the H out of your hand after a day. Use a squeegee.
Meh, I don't trust that tape for long-term adhesion. Look at how easily you peeled up that vertical seam tape at the top of the window. Hate the so-called low-expansion foam on the inside - seen tons of jambs tweaked by uncontrolled foam expansion (maybe doesn't matter for production homes where anything goes). And foam isn't a reliable air sealant - cannot control how well it adheres. Much better to use a backer rod and liquid air sealant.
Great video, I am currently fixing issues with my house with window sill rot and framing rot due too what i believe were drunk house builders and town inspectors that must have been on vacation when they built my house. Anyway, I wish builders were like you who accually take pride in what they do.Love your video. thanks
WOW. What a lot of effort. Be hard to find any builder going to that much trouble in AUS ! Great job though !
Great video demonstration. I'll be doing this technique for my upcoming office/work shed build.
One of the best how-tos I've seen. You saved me some mistakes. Thanks!
Wow, thank you. That's slick. I have five windows to install in my (old) house, and I am way more confident now.
A good thing to keep in mind is the rough opening specs for the window if using a clapboard at the bottom. If that opening is framed to your window manufacturers specs and the then you decided to add a clapboard to pitch the sill, the window will most likely not fit.
I agree - Clapboard is (if I remember correctly) 7/16 at the thickest edge. I don't know if you noticed but the top had, it looks like an inch of clearance too.. probably not to the manufacturers recommendation.. very good video though overall..
Very nice. Thanks. I haven't seen someone take the time to shingle the tape. I haven't done it in my applications, but it's probably something I'll do going forward.
Good Details.
These videos are great, could you also do a series on flange-less windows ?
We actually may have something in the works along those lines 👍
hehj jake-you shifted from zip tape to prosecco r guard when you went inside ! No fair ! having said that, why no use the prossoco dam and fill material over the r guarded wood sill ??
Viewed from the interior, the sill clapboard had a coating on it that wasn’t there when u installed it from the exterior. What is that stuff?
How is the water going to drain out from between the window and the sill it all the bottom window flange is nailed?
Super good demo
whoa what is that pink liquid coating dried on the white shims? did i miss that part of the video?
I had the same question.
In Canada at least that shit is like $90 a roll. It just cost you ~$50 to flash that one window. Flashing the jambs and top before the window even goes in seems like total overkill to me - does Huber recommend doing that?
Ben Muirhead agreed. I tape the sill, then install, then tape over flanges on to the frame of window. I air seal in the same way he did.
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Absolutely; bet ZIPsystem payed them some $$$ for this.
$50 dollars is peanuts compared to how much it would cost to repair the damage from an improperly sealed window opening
Man I was thinking the exact same thing especially a double layer at the top????
This is exactly what I needed to see. Thank you. More Zip stuff please :)
Can you explain why did you cut the pre-installed zip tape in the middle top of the window? You could have left that in place and overlaid your flashing on top of that vertical tape on the sidewall?
I was waiting for that, too. The way it came up easy, he could have pulled it off a little and simply put it back.
That would have given water a path under the horizontal top flashing.
No flashing above window required?
It should have illustrated the required header flashing atop the window frame.
When you switched to the inside there was some kind of pink/red sealant on the sill. Did I miss that part in somewhere the beginning? What is that? Also, the sealant to bridge the shims is unmarked and you didn't say what it was.
That is a different type of flashing. That is a fluid applied flashing that was probably done on the same mockup after they removed all the tapes and did that one in a different video (and then did the interior video clip afterwards to apply to both videos). It was most likely Prosoco Liquid Flash, but there are other brands as well. You can do either fluid applied or tape applied, but the goal is the same: get the WRB continuous and tie it to the window appropriately to keep everything air and watertight.
I think its more effective to put your tape around the window frame then cut four 8" pieces for coners with no butterfly.
This guy cutting his x corners using the window sill like we all install windows and wrapping inside a controlled environment lol. If it summer I can’t get the flashing off my hands let along a window sill
What seals the bottom if no sealant or tape is used
Gravity. This must be able to drain
I have watched a few videos on this ZIP system, and I haven't seen one address the application of siding. What good is all this sealing of every joint and ensuring the entire wall is homogeneous, when you are going to penetrate the wall hundreds of times with nails when siding is applied?
This is what I've been wondering...
If you look in zip system installation guide starting on page 48 it goes over cladding including lap siding. I think it keeps it as long as any nail remains flush and doesn't penetrate more than 1/8" into the actual zip board. So if your nails are lying flush on top of say Hardie board siding you are not going to void zip warranty. Hope this helps.
saw a video on this with a water test and even with slightly overdriven nails it was still good.
How will you use replacement windows in the future and maintain this level of air tightness without removing the siding or brick?
Right off the bat you used the acronym "WRV" and then mentioned it a few more times. What does that represent? Also, when you move to the inside to insulate, there's a red bondo looking material that's coating the inside of the framing. You made no mention of that anywhere. Please explain.
Weather Resistant Barrier
That " red Bondo looking material" is the stretch tape it really looks like translucent grey after it's stretched in field. I think it may just be the lighting in studio making it appear red.
remove shims after nailing window much better seal
You skipped explaining how the Prosco (?) red goo ended up all over the inside?
They might have used the same mockup for different videos
YOu rly hate PU foam dont you. Isnt much easier to apply pu foam and airseal it with silicone?
this video is great! thank you so much. sub3d 😀
Make sure you get paid by the hour because you will lose your shirt .
Why not tape the bottom and barricade the water at the exterior? In a high wind/driving rain situation where the house is under negative pressure, the water will be sucked into the house up under that flange and without a back damn it will drip down inside. I wish a company would come up with a way to air seal somewhere at the interior side of the window opening other than just caulking it. The spray foam insulates well but it’s not sealing out air in that negative pressure high wind coastal situation.
If you taped the bottom of the window, water would get trapped on the sill, there needs to be weep holes at least on the bottom flange to allow water to escape. There should be no water behind the siding to get driven up that bottom flange of the window, if so, there's bigger problems.
@@Box545x39 I disagree. Water is always going to get behind the siding if you live somewhere that it rains and there’s wind
True, but not enough to warrant sealing the bottom of the window to trap water in@@CMbassin
@@Box545x39 the window manufacturers require you to tape not only the flange but onto the frame so if water gets in to the point it needs letting out then the window itself failed. And again, the water will get sucked up under that untapped bottom flange if the house gets under negative pressure in a high wind. I’d rather fully barricade it at the shell.
@@CMbassin Any tape you put on the bottom would be behind the siding anyway. The sill is taped, the foam will keep water out of the house, the taped sill will allow the water top drain out from the sill.
old video and I'm not as familiar with zip as conventional tyvek but why would you wrap the flashing tape first on the inside before placing the window in on the top and sides? if water ever got between there wouldn't that lead it inside? also when the spray foam contracts it would pull the tape away from the wall creating a pocket. like I said I'm not familiar with the zip and I understand it has flashing tape over the outside again but just confused about the flashing tape first that faces inward on the window seals from above and the sides.
Overkill in the interest o Zip sales and profits.
How is water going to find its way in if this is called good practice. From what I’ve seen in the 3videos I have watched is no one wants to take responsibility for anything just tape the daylights out of the entire house.
If you wanna be real... the WRB is established with the outer layer of PSA tape. Too much time and material is spent unnecessarily... its no wonder contruction has become so expensive.
This would all go a lot better if you would learn to use a small hand squeegee. Pushing it in with your hand and fingers is fraught with error and will beat the H out of your hand after a day. Use a squeegee.
that's a lot of tape XD
Rolling from the middle didn't last long.
this is shingled incorrectly
Then the siding idiots come along and blow nails all thru that tape.
No metal flashing eh ? Good luck with that. Little wonder that modern buildings are only good for fifty years. Sad actually.
Meh, I don't trust that tape for long-term adhesion. Look at how easily you peeled up that vertical seam tape at the top of the window. Hate the so-called low-expansion foam on the inside - seen tons of jambs tweaked by uncontrolled foam expansion (maybe doesn't matter for production homes where anything goes). And foam isn't a reliable air sealant - cannot control how well it adheres. Much better to use a backer rod and liquid air sealant.
The tape is pressure sensitive. When rolled, it kinda locks in it
Jeans a little tight? Good god!!!!