This is by far, the best DIY video for replacing both the water and oil pump seal. Thank you! It would be nice to include where you got the oem parts in the description
Многие говорят, что уплотнение не может работать в таком положении, но это радиальное уплотнение. Радиальное уплотнение не заботится о своем положении. Есть ли у вас дополнительная информация о том, почему печать не работает? Мне интересно узнать, проводили ли другие тесты.
@@marks4058 создаётся небольшое давление масла со стороны двигателя и через некоторое время может протекать масло.Если например поставить сальник в передний амортизатор на мотоцикле неправильно то он какое-то время работает но потом начинает течь всему виной разница давления
@@ШевченкоМихаил Я думаю, вы хотите сказать, что давление масла на вогнутой стороне давит наружу, расширяясь и прижимая уплотнение к поверхностям вала? Я сам об этом думал, но уплотнение представляет собой стальную ленту, покрытую резиной. Я не думаю, что какое-либо расширение возможно. Я внимательно проверял при каждом техническом обслуживании, но после 20 000 километров проблем не вижу. Возможно, в конце концов он все равно потерпит неудачу, тогда я исправлю свою ошибку. Спасибо, что нашли время ответить на старый комментарий.
@@marks4058 если вы 20.000 проехали после замены,это говорит о том что можно так ставить.это очень хороший результат.но я когда менял резиновое уплотнение побоялся так поставить .У вас очень хороший результат
@marks4058 Good day, I had this happen, all the coolant disappeared. It got into the engine oil, how can I check if the gasket burned out or got from the water pump?
Coolant shouldn't be able to mix with the oil via the pump because there is a drain hole between the water pump seal and the oil pump seal for the coolant to escape. In theory it could happen if the drain hole was blocked, but it seems unlikely to me. Verify if the drain hole (weep hole) is blocked. The next step would be a "leakdown test" on the radiator/coolant system. It needs to be pressurized to operating pressure then monitored with a pressure gauge to see if the pressure drops. That test will also cause visible leaking from the water pump if that seal is faulty. If it doesn't leak from the pump during a leakdown test then it's likely to be the head gasket. Also, ask yourself how you know that it's coolant mixed with the oil? Sometimes two different problems can happen at the same time. Milky oil could be due to water from another source (eg: pressure washing the bike or condensation during long term storage).
No it's not necessary to drain the oil if you use a center stand or paddock stand to keep the bike upright. However, it's very important that the pump be kept clean and nothing is allowed to contaminate the oil while you work on it. If you can afford to change the oil, it would be a sensible precaution. It's also possible that the oil will be contaminated with antifreeze due to the failed pump seal. So there's another reason to change the oil, if you can.
Hi I have a Z750 which is mixing both coolant and oil after a water pump service and staying for a year without riding. Any idea if its possible that the bike mixes oil and coolant from water pump and oil pump seals?
Upon installing that body before the water pump impeller, is there a gap? I'm putting it on the guides and all but won't go all the way in. Help me out here please 🙏
first let me say thanks bro, this was infinitely more helpful than the 3 pages of 657 in the service manual on swapping these orings and seals. cheers. as an afterthough, if anyone else is peeping this vid to figure out how to get the old fscking seal out of the housing 01:24 on, I was doing like he was, and had been advised before as well. lots of patience, a knockout, and a heavy hammer... i had a gut full of fscking around with that thing sooo.. put a mapp or propane torch on it for a few mins. wear a gas filter mask, cause its gonna smoke some, and it reeks like hell. BUT, with a simple set of needle nose pliers or steel rod, once it's good and red hot, you can gently lever it back and forth a half dozen times and it will pull out nearly intact. basically it burns off that blue sealant you can see on the new one.
Clean the area around the weep hole with engine degreaser and recheck frequently. You might just be seeing oil from the chain or one of the drain tubes? If you are certain the oil comes from the weep hole, buy the seal and be ready to replace it if the leak becomes worse.
No, this bike does not leak anywhere. Engine temperature does not go over 102C peak. If you are seeing operating temperatures above this, trailer it to a mechanic, don't ride it. You might damage the engine or get boiling water sprayed over you leg. I've found Spectro Golden Synthetic 10w40 and Belray Synthetic 10w40 to be the best oils for the Kawasaki Z series. Any synthetic or semi-synthetic JASO MA compliant 10w40 should be ok. I like the brands I mentioned because the gear shift action feels good.
Hi there, would be great to get a parts list if you have the time. I’m also curious how long the job took. I think I’m going to bring mine in for the service and just want to make sure they aren’t bending me over. I’ve heard the pumps can weep if bikes aren’t ridden a lot too. Any thoughts? My bike only has 4500km and just started leaking out of nowhere. Thanks for the video!
Yes, that's true they can weep if left standing for a while. If it's just a few drips and there's no ongoing leakage it might be nothing to worry about. Keep a pan under the bike and monitor the overflow reservoir to see what's going on. For a parts list, I suggest partzilla.com. It's a really good reference. They have all the part diagrams and part numbers. I don't remember how long this took now but I think the whole job was around 4 hours. It might take longer for someone who's not familiar with this particular bike.
Hello again. Why did you change from green coolant to red? are you sure you flushed out all of the old green coolant? why didnt you flush your system with clean water before add the new in. Im sure its not so good to mix those colours.
This was the coolant I had available that was compatible with aluminum. The color is simply branding in this case, the chemistry was the same. If you have any doubts just buy the manufacturers recommended coolant and do a full flush.
Something is very wrong. Maybe the little key pin is not installed correctly to join the impeller shaft to the oil pump rotor or the impeller bolt is loose/missing. Sounds like the engine may have oil starvation, possibly damaging the rings and/or bearings. Trailer it to a mechanic, don't run the engine again or you risk severe damage. The pump needs to be fixed and then the oil should be checked by an expert for signs of bearing damage.
i prefer to use cervical grease whenever possible, but this time i just got a small tube of Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant. I'm guessing any non sealing, non-drying grease will be fine.
Oui, je l'ai installé à l'opposé de la position d'origine. L'orientation du joint ne pose aucun problème. Les surfaces d'étanchéité sont radiales et s'appuient contre l'arbre et le diamètre extérieur du boîtier.
El goteo de aceite de un pequeño orificio debajo de la bomba es un síntoma de falla en el sello de la bomba de aceite. No confundir con aceite del tubo negro, que es solo agua sucia de la caja del filtro de aire. --- Oil dripping from a small hole under the pump is a symptom of oil pump seal failure. Do not confuse that with oil from a black tube, that is only dirty water from the air filter box.
Hi ... I wanted an explanation. When you reassembled the new oil seal, you mounted it upside down from the old one, did you make a mistake or did you do it specifically?
It's a radial seal so there's no specific direction it needs to face in order to function. But, for consistency and ease of removal in the future, it would be better installed in the original orientation.
@@powpow4033 Coating the parts with oil is sufficient to prime the oil pump. The water pump is primed by squeezing the hose between the pump and the radiator.
If possible, install it the opposite way around to what I did in this video. It's a radial seal and works just as well either way, but it's best to eliminate any doubt. I serviced this bike recently and the seal is still fine 4 years later.
@@marks4058 cheers fam, turns out my bolt sheared off leaving about 5mm in the shaft. after a lot of effort and patience i managed to extract it. it all makes sense now haha
So I did this to fix a small coolant leak, but now I'm getting oil coming from the weep hole. All seals and shaft are brand new, and I've taken it apart twice. Any idea what could be the cause of the oil leak?
Either the oil seal is not installed correctly (bad placement, not clean enough) or the seal are not a good fit to the shaft and oil is bypassing the seal. Don't ride it in that condition. Check you have Kawasaki OEM seals and find someone with a micrometer to measure the pump drive shaft and see if it's the same diameter along it's whole length.
@@marks4058 Thanks for the great advice. Everything was installed correctly but the cheap o-ring for the oil pump was slightly different from OEM and wasn't keeping a tight enough seal. Got all OEM and double checked it was debris free and the problem is gone.
This is a very helpful video. The oil pump is the same as my 2011 Z750R. If the seal fails, does that mean coolant and oil will mix up? I'm seeing some small oil droplets from under the water pump cover as well (near the bottom bolt).
zerouzer Thanks! Usually the coolant will just run out the small hole in the bottom of the pump. If you can see drips there it's time to replace the seal before something bad happens. If the oil seail also fails then yes, the coolant and oil will mix. The silver ring I hammered out along with the white ring and spring form the coolant seal. The oil is sealed in separately by the black rubber ring. Between them is an empty space connected to the hole you can see the drips coming from.
Thanks for the info! Another question, do the hoses need to be removed at all? I was thinking if I dont have the o-rings then maybe I can just leave the hoses connected to the cover
@@zerouzer I think it would be impossible without disconnecting the hoses. However, you could reuse the o-rings if they are smooth and not cracked. Just be sure to grease them before reassembling. I only replaced mine because it was a good opportunity.
@@marks4058 mine has a very tiny bit of coolant droplet sticking near the weep hole, should I be worried?? Also fact is I hardly travel on the bike and it's off for a minimum 10 days between rides.
@@alokkulkarni78 That is common, particularly if there are big temperature changes (metal shrinks when cold). I suggest you monitor the coolant level in the overflow tank. Check it when the engine is cold, before each ride. If the level is remaining above "min" and you don't see any coolant drips after riding then it's probably nothing to worry about. Keep a tray under the engine so you can monitor drips too.
Very good tutorial, unfortunately when I wanted to change the water pump seals, I dropped the pin of the pump shaft into one of the two holes below. You have an idea how to get it out? If I start the bike the pin will be filtered?
You may be able to extract it using a small neodymium magnet attached to a flexible rod. It's not safe to run the engine until the pin is removed and returned to it's correct location. Search for a workshop service manual and you will find a diagram of the oil system that shows were it might go
@@marks4058 hi, I removed the pin. And I replaced the white seal and the mechanical seal. The leak of cooling liquid still exists. And I have leak of oil behind the pump. I have a question . The seal in 2:11 what's his function? Because I didn't change it
@@marks4058 i have a question do i have to drain the oil from the engine as well as the coolant when i go to repair the water pump like you repaired in this video? thank you
@@Hortiklutura_Green It's not strictly necessary to drain the oil, it won't come pouring out. But I would recommend changing it if you can. If seals have failed, the oil may be contaminated.
@@marks4058 thanks. I am having a similar issue on my z800. I recently purchased this bike with only 400 miles. I my case, every time i ride, i see some green fluid on water pump cover, bottom screw. It not coming out from that weep hole, istead its coming out from the screw.
@@techten1012 a single loose bolt is unlikely to cause a leak in the pump housing (in my opinion). Look below and behind the bolt where you see the leak, you will see a small open hole that goes into the pump. If there is fluid in that hole or coming out of it, the mechanical seal on the pump shaft has failed.
This is by far, the best DIY video for replacing both the water and oil pump seal. Thank you! It would be nice to include where you got the oem parts in the description
Thanks for the feedback. Parts were from www.partzilla.com. I'll add that to the description.
нельзя так масло сальник ставить иначе он у вас через некоторое время время будет течь,это уже проверенно
Многие говорят, что уплотнение не может работать в таком положении, но это радиальное уплотнение. Радиальное уплотнение не заботится о своем положении. Есть ли у вас дополнительная информация о том, почему печать не работает? Мне интересно узнать, проводили ли другие тесты.
@@marks4058 создаётся небольшое давление масла со стороны двигателя и через некоторое время может протекать масло.Если например поставить сальник в передний амортизатор на мотоцикле неправильно то он какое-то время работает но потом начинает течь всему виной разница давления
@@ШевченкоМихаил Я думаю, вы хотите сказать, что давление масла на вогнутой стороне давит наружу, расширяясь и прижимая уплотнение к поверхностям вала? Я сам об этом думал, но уплотнение представляет собой стальную ленту, покрытую резиной. Я не думаю, что какое-либо расширение возможно. Я внимательно проверял при каждом техническом обслуживании, но после 20 000 километров проблем не вижу. Возможно, в конце концов он все равно потерпит неудачу, тогда я исправлю свою ошибку. Спасибо, что нашли время ответить на старый комментарий.
@@marks4058 если вы 20.000 проехали после замены,это говорит о том что можно так ставить.это очень хороший результат.но я когда менял резиновое уплотнение побоялся так поставить .У вас очень хороший результат
Бро, у тебя тоже антифриз капал?
How tight should the bolt in the middle of the water pump be, cause I'm not sure from the video, thanks ;)
9.6 Newton Meters (approximately 4kg of force on a 250mm long wrench)
@marks4058 Good day, I had this happen, all the coolant disappeared. It got into the engine oil, how can I check if the gasket burned out or got from the water pump?
Coolant shouldn't be able to mix with the oil via the pump because there is a drain hole between the water pump seal and the oil pump seal for the coolant to escape. In theory it could happen if the drain hole was blocked, but it seems unlikely to me. Verify if the drain hole (weep hole) is blocked.
The next step would be a "leakdown test" on the radiator/coolant system. It needs to be pressurized to operating pressure then monitored with a pressure gauge to see if the pressure drops. That test will also cause visible leaking from the water pump if that seal is faulty. If it doesn't leak from the pump during a leakdown test then it's likely to be the head gasket.
Also, ask yourself how you know that it's coolant mixed with the oil? Sometimes two different problems can happen at the same time. Milky oil could be due to water from another source (eg: pressure washing the bike or condensation during long term storage).
@@marks4058 The reason is that there is no coolant in the radiator.
Vers trois minutes 40 je rêve ou t’as mis le joint à l’envers ?
At the shop $400.00 USD and maybe plus tax$$$$..😂
Did u put the oil seal up side donw?
Yeeeees!
Hi, did you drain the oil from the motor to do this job? The coolant for sure has to be drain off! Thanks
No it's not necessary to drain the oil if you use a center stand or paddock stand to keep the bike upright. However, it's very important that the pump be kept clean and nothing is allowed to contaminate the oil while you work on it. If you can afford to change the oil, it would be a sensible precaution. It's also possible that the oil will be contaminated with antifreeze due to the failed pump seal. So there's another reason to change the oil, if you can.
Hi. On my bike (zx10r) when tightening the impeller the shaft doesn't stop turning so I don't know if it's well tightened. How do you solve that?
Hi I have a Z750 which is mixing both coolant and oil after a water pump service and staying for a year without riding. Any idea if its possible that the bike mixes oil and coolant from water pump and oil pump seals?
Bos can ask something, for motorbikes me liking air coolant, why??
Upon installing that body before the water pump impeller, is there a gap? I'm putting it on the guides and all but won't go all the way in. Help me out here please 🙏
Hi! My pump is weeping coolant only and not oil. Can I just replace the coolant pump o-ring and leave the oil pump assembly in situ?
You inserted oil seal upside down, watch 2:03 and 3:18 !!!!! Surprise
I did too! Oops! At least if it fails early I'll know why. However, I think it will be fine since it's a radial seal. Well spotted!
@@marks4058 did it fail early or hold up fine. I've just changed mine and realised I've installed the oil seal upside down also!!
@@1leglou139 So far no problems for me. I think it will be fine because it's a radial seal.
Replace. It will fail suddenly guys
Becouse of why ..u changeing that oil seal sir ?
first let me say thanks bro, this was infinitely more helpful than the 3 pages of 657 in the service manual on swapping these orings and seals. cheers.
as an afterthough, if anyone else is peeping this vid to figure out how to get the old fscking seal out of the housing 01:24 on, I was doing like he was, and had been advised before as well. lots of patience, a knockout, and a heavy hammer... i had a gut full of fscking around with that thing sooo..
put a mapp or propane torch on it for a few mins. wear a gas filter mask, cause its gonna smoke some, and it reeks like hell. BUT, with a simple set of needle nose pliers or steel rod, once it's good and red hot, you can gently lever it back and forth a half dozen times and it will pull out nearly intact. basically it burns off that blue sealant you can see on the new one.
The best tutorial !!! Thank you !
Thx and grat video show
Manta
Good job... Very nice
water and oil pumps seems identical to those of the Z750/Z1000 2003-2006.
I would agree. I'm having trouble finding the part that he hammered out of the back of the one plate
you put the oil seal in the water pump housing backwards dude.
Yeah, well spotted! Thankfully, it's not a problem in this case as it's a radial seal. The surfaces match up either way around.
Hi my bike very slight seems to show a sign of oil but they is no drip shall I change the oil seal ?
Clean the area around the weep hole with engine degreaser and recheck frequently. You might just be seeing oil from the chain or one of the drain tubes? If you are certain the oil comes from the weep hole, buy the seal and be ready to replace it if the leak becomes worse.
did you notice any other leaks at high temperatures after the replacement? And I would like to know what oil you use?
No, this bike does not leak anywhere. Engine temperature does not go over 102C peak. If you are seeing operating temperatures above this, trailer it to a mechanic, don't ride it. You might damage the engine or get boiling water sprayed over you leg.
I've found Spectro Golden Synthetic 10w40 and Belray Synthetic 10w40 to be the best oils for the Kawasaki Z series. Any synthetic or semi-synthetic JASO MA compliant 10w40 should be ok. I like the brands I mentioned because the gear shift action feels good.
Hi there, would be great to get a parts list if you have the time.
I’m also curious how long the job took. I think I’m going to bring mine in for the service and just want to make sure they aren’t bending me over.
I’ve heard the pumps can weep if bikes aren’t ridden a lot too. Any thoughts? My bike only has 4500km and just started leaking out of nowhere.
Thanks for the video!
Yes, that's true they can weep if left standing for a while. If it's just a few drips and there's no ongoing leakage it might be nothing to worry about. Keep a pan under the bike and monitor the overflow reservoir to see what's going on.
For a parts list, I suggest partzilla.com. It's a really good reference. They have all the part diagrams and part numbers.
I don't remember how long this took now but I think the whole job was around 4 hours. It might take longer for someone who's not familiar with this particular bike.
Hello again. Why did you change from green coolant to red? are you sure you flushed out all of the old green coolant? why didnt you flush your system with clean water before add the new in. Im sure its not so good to mix those colours.
This was the coolant I had available that was compatible with aluminum. The color is simply branding in this case, the chemistry was the same. If you have any doubts just buy the manufacturers recommended coolant and do a full flush.
I changed mine and the pump is making a loud clattering noise and the bike is bogging down
Something is very wrong. Maybe the little key pin is not installed correctly to join the impeller shaft to the oil pump rotor or the impeller bolt is loose/missing. Sounds like the engine may have oil starvation, possibly damaging the rings and/or bearings. Trailer it to a mechanic, don't run the engine again or you risk severe damage.
The pump needs to be fixed and then the oil should be checked by an expert for signs of bearing damage.
Hello. What kind of grease you use for the O rings? Thanks
i prefer to use cervical grease whenever possible, but this time i just got a small tube of Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant. I'm guessing any non sealing, non-drying grease will be fine.
joint spi monté a l'envers dommage ...
Oui, je l'ai installé à l'opposé de la position d'origine. L'orientation du joint ne pose aucun problème. Les surfaces d'étanchéité sont radiales et s'appuient contre l'arbre et le diamètre extérieur du boîtier.
Hello
I changed all seals and stills oil leaking from the emergency ring?
What can i do?
Did u fixed this??? I'm having the same issue rn 😭
is this something they do on regual mile services?
No, this is usually only done if the pump starts leaking.
Hello friend
I have z1000A with one problem,2 days ago oil mixed antifrizze..
Oil and water seals maybe there is a reason?
Yes pump seals are the first thing to check. This is the most likely cause. There can be other reason for coolant/oil mixing too.
@@marks4058 Hello
I changed all seals and stills oil leaking from the emergency ring?
What can i do?
A mi me quedo votando aceite por el tornillo de abajo que seria
El goteo de aceite de un pequeño orificio debajo de la bomba es un síntoma de falla en el sello de la bomba de aceite. No confundir con aceite del tubo negro, que es solo agua sucia de la caja del filtro de aire.
---
Oil dripping from a small hole under the pump is a symptom of oil pump seal failure. Do not confuse that with oil from a black tube, that is only dirty water from the air filter box.
Hi ... I wanted an explanation. When you reassembled the new oil seal, you mounted it upside down from the old one, did you make a mistake or did you do it specifically?
It's a radial seal so there's no specific direction it needs to face in order to function. But, for consistency and ease of removal in the future, it would be better installed in the original orientation.
thank you
so how did your emove the impeler? by force? it cam off just like that?
The water pump impeller is attached by a small bolt through the center. The oil pump rotor just floats on the shaft and is driven by the small pin.
@@marks4058 so you just force the impeler out of the shaft? mine does not come out by hand after removing the bolt
Did you prime the oil pump before start or not required?
@@powpow4033 Coating the parts with oil is sufficient to prime the oil pump. The water pump is primed by squeezing the hose between the pump and the radiator.
Hey mark. Just want to clarify the oil seal placement,. is it ok which ever direction you install it?
2:09
3:16
If possible, install it the opposite way around to what I did in this video. It's a radial seal and works just as well either way, but it's best to eliminate any doubt. I serviced this bike recently and the seal is still fine 4 years later.
ua-cam.com/video/UQ18A7zT6NU/v-deo.html
0:31 the bolt for the impeller, what is that actually screwing into? is there a thread in that shaft, and ive stripped mine?
Yeah, that bolt threads into the shaft that extends through the oil pump. Part number 13107-0046 from partzilla.com if you need a new one.
@@marks4058 cheers fam, turns out my bolt sheared off leaving about 5mm in the shaft. after a lot of effort and patience i managed to extract it.
it all makes sense now haha
where can i get the blue strip on the new seal?
You can not buy that on it's own. They only sell the complete seal. I got mine from www.partzilla.com
Не той стороной сальник вала поставил.
Да, ошибка.Не вызывает проблем благодаря радиальной контактной поверхности.
So I did this to fix a small coolant leak, but now I'm getting oil coming from the weep hole. All seals and shaft are brand new, and I've taken it apart twice. Any idea what could be the cause of the oil leak?
Either the oil seal is not installed correctly (bad placement, not clean enough) or the seal are not a good fit to the shaft and oil is bypassing the seal. Don't ride it in that condition. Check you have Kawasaki OEM seals and find someone with a micrometer to measure the pump drive shaft and see if it's the same diameter along it's whole length.
@@marks4058 Thanks for the great advice. Everything was installed correctly but the cheap o-ring for the oil pump was slightly different from OEM and wasn't keeping a tight enough seal.
Got all OEM and double checked it was debris free and the problem is gone.
@@dankbud7390 Glad to hear you figured it out!
This is a very helpful video. The oil pump is the same as my 2011 Z750R. If the seal fails, does that mean coolant and oil will mix up? I'm seeing some small oil droplets from under the water pump cover as well (near the bottom bolt).
zerouzer Thanks! Usually the coolant will just run out the small hole in the bottom of the pump. If you can see drips there it's time to replace the seal before something bad happens. If the oil seail also fails then yes, the coolant and oil will mix. The silver ring I hammered out along with the white ring and spring form the coolant seal. The oil is sealed in separately by the black rubber ring. Between them is an empty space connected to the hole you can see the drips coming from.
Thanks for the info! Another question, do the hoses need to be removed at all? I was thinking if I dont have the o-rings then maybe I can just leave the hoses connected to the cover
@@zerouzer I think it would be impossible without disconnecting the hoses. However, you could reuse the o-rings if they are smooth and not cracked. Just be sure to grease them before reassembling. I only replaced mine because it was a good opportunity.
Thanks for the reply!
About what mileage (or km) should I change it? Or just when it leaks?
I would only change this seal if it leaks. Many bikes never have a leak at all.
@@marks4058 mine has a very tiny bit of coolant droplet sticking near the weep hole, should I be worried?? Also fact is I hardly travel on the bike and it's off for a minimum 10 days between rides.
It doesn't leak but the coolant droplet arrives especially after long intervals of not using it
@@alokkulkarni78 That is common, particularly if there are big temperature changes (metal shrinks when cold). I suggest you monitor the coolant level in the overflow tank. Check it when the engine is cold, before each ride. If the level is remaining above "min" and you don't see any coolant drips after riding then it's probably nothing to worry about. Keep a tray under the engine so you can monitor drips too.
@@marks4058 thanks a ton brother. Really appreciate your quick reply. Godspeed.🙂✌️
Very good tutorial, unfortunately when I wanted to change the water pump seals, I dropped the pin of the pump shaft into one of the two holes below. You have an idea how to get it out? If I start the bike the pin will be filtered?
You may be able to extract it using a small neodymium magnet attached to a flexible rod. It's not safe to run the engine until the pin is removed and returned to it's correct location. Search for a workshop service manual and you will find a diagram of the oil system that shows were it might go
@@marks4058 hi, I removed the pin. And I replaced the white seal and the mechanical seal. The leak of cooling liquid still exists. And I have leak of oil behind the pump. I have a question . The seal in 2:11 what's his function? Because I didn't change it
@@mhaydox The black seal is the oil seal. If you replace this and oil still leaks, the shaft may be worn out or under sized.
@@marks4058 i have a question do i have to drain the oil from the engine as well as the coolant when i go to repair the water pump like you repaired in this video? thank you
@@Hortiklutura_Green It's not strictly necessary to drain the oil, it won't come pouring out. But I would recommend changing it if you can. If seals have failed, the oil may be contaminated.
What are torque specs for water pump cover screws?
11 Nm for the pump cover and 12 Nm for the two pipe bolts. Non-permenent thread locker is required on the pipe bolts.
The pump rotor (impeller) bolt is 9.8Nm.
@@marks4058 thanks. I am having a similar issue on my z800. I recently purchased this bike with only 400 miles. I my case, every time i ride, i see some green fluid on water pump cover, bottom screw. It not coming out from that weep hole, istead its coming out from the screw.
I talked to previous owner and he said, bike is just like brand new, he didnt get much time to ride it. He told me to try to retorque those screws.
@@techten1012 a single loose bolt is unlikely to cause a leak in the pump housing (in my opinion). Look below and behind the bolt where you see the leak, you will see a small open hole that goes into the pump. If there is fluid in that hole or coming out of it, the mechanical seal on the pump shaft has failed.