Thank you so much for your videos on restoring a CX500, I have been following along on my own bike as you are posting videos. These are the best videos I've found for working on this bike!
Hi monk you can still buy the mechanical seal from david silver spares, if you have coolant out of the weep hole just take out the impeller the put hand soap on the Wight ceramic seal put it back together fill up and run if it still leaks you have to do what's in the video chang the seal which is very tight and the special oil seal don't forget to put soft hand soap on ceramic part , ps I had to make my own seal driver.
Thank you for the detailed look at that opening, I was wondering how the weep hole played into this since it seems I have an oil leak out of there....and probably some coolant lol.
I just don’t get why you took the seal apart, engine was out, rear cover out, preparation was great, so WHY you took the seal apart?? that’s what the lazy self called “mechanics” do with the engine on the bike. The seal comes in one piece and that’s the way it should be installed
@@carlosgooglemaps94Thanks for watching. I'm guilty of many things, but being lazy isn't one of them. As I state in the video, I learned I had the discontinued, smaller size seal in my engine, so there's no buying a direct fit seal that could go in in one piece without modification to the case. I've offered a different solution here for those who have the same issue.
I’ve got you but is not that difficult to get the right one, davidsilverspares.uk, there is also a Yamaha straight fit for the cx mechanical seal (can’t recall the part number). I didn’t said you were lazy, I said that taking apart the mechanical seal to install it having the engine off the bike and open was wrong as mechanical seal comes in one piece and should be installed as is, cheers!!✊🏻
@@carlosgooglemaps94 You keep calling it one piece when it's obviously 3 pieces held together with glue. The part that he reused was in perfect condition and wasn't what failed. Nothing lazy about it. It's not a complicated high tech fragile component that's worthy of taking the engine apart for. It's a simple mechanical seal.
Great video. Question; on minute 3:00 you showed the little hole for coolant drip in case of failure. Now, if from that same hole it drips oil, that means the seal from the oil side is giving up, correct? That’s actually my situation. Thanks for your help.
@@miguelatambucho748 Yes, you are correct. Water seal on one side, oil seal on the other, seep hole in the middle. Whatever fluid is coming out the whole indicates which seal is compromised. Thanks for watching!
Question: The 3 yellow wires from the old stator were oriented in the 3-pin plug a specific way, does it matter where the black wires go in the new 3-pin, or are they all the same?
what an excellent presentation. thank you. I have an '81 cx500 custom with a water-seal problem. you gave me hope. Where would you order the seal from?
I ordered an inexpensive one off eBay. There is a direct fit version available from a UK company, but it is quite a bit more expensive. Thanks for watching!
9:49 no sealant? better putting some even it seems well encased, i believe it's factory mounted with sealant, new ones also got kind of sealant already on. am i right?
I can't say that I remember seeing evidence of a sealant on the og I took out, but you could be right. That said, it is a very tight fit and haven't seen any evidence of coolant in the oil since. Not sure of long term. Thanks for watching and raising the question!
@@UrbanMonkTV it's true, maybe i'm a little too careful but it would be just a shame if it happened, it's not for what it costs, i believe it worth it, Vmax 1200 have it peg with bond sealant, thx
That may be a difficult part to find new or aftermarket. But if you can find a used one on eBay, it is a non-wearing item typically and used/old wouldn't matter. Thank you for watching.
I'm changing the water pump oil seal and machinical seal but my impeller is stuck on and won't budge any advice you could give me so I can get it off without breaking anything thanks
I'd heat it with torch. It is aluminum and the shaft is steel, so it'll expand faster. A little heat and some light taps with a mallet and it should come off. Thanks for watching!
The cover hole is supposed to be 1 mm smaller than seal for a tight fit to seal water a new metal piece has red paint on it to seal......I bought mine at the dealer 45.00 for the entire thing plus 2.00 for crush washers
Thanks for watching! I got mine from eBay, but there are other sources. Mine required modification of course as shown in the video. I also have a video that covers how I go about finding difficult/rare parts. ua-cam.com/video/yFCIXNbDokM/v-deo.html
Wheres the logic in this strange variation of Sheps method - why did you take out the metal cup? And you didnt cover the most crucial part - how to get cup or full assembly in. Tools or ideas...
Merci d'avoir regardé! J'espère comprendre votre question. Je voulais afficher la suppression du moteur sur ma chaîne, car cela serait utile à de nombreux téléspectateurs.
Thank you so much for your videos on restoring a CX500, I have been following along on my own bike as you are posting videos. These are the best videos I've found for working on this bike!
Thanks for watching!
Hi monk you can still buy the mechanical seal from david silver spares, if you have coolant out of the weep hole just take out the impeller the put hand soap on the Wight ceramic seal put it back together fill up and run if it still leaks you have to do what's in the video chang the seal which is very tight and the special oil seal don't forget to put soft hand soap on ceramic part , ps I had to make my own seal driver.
Thanks for sharing this information for others.
thanks man I learned from your video
Glad I could help
I like your video,thank you for sharing!I also sent LIKE👍
Thank you!
@@UrbanMonkTV
I want to do to dis assembly and assembly like you
Thank you for the detailed look at that opening, I was wondering how the weep hole played into this since it seems I have an oil leak out of there....and probably some coolant lol.
Happy to be of service. Thanks for watching.
GOOD JOB BRO GREETINGS FROM ORTHODOX CHRISTIAN GREECE !!!
Thanks for watching! Hello from Los Angeles! My wife's family comes from Greece near Derveni. Her family used to grow lemons there.
I can’t wait to ride it and buy you a new rear rack and turn signal 😎
No Jersey gloves allowed! 😉
I just don’t get why you took the seal apart, engine was out, rear cover out, preparation was great, so WHY you took the seal apart?? that’s what the lazy self called “mechanics” do with the engine on the bike.
The seal comes in one piece and that’s the way it should be installed
@@carlosgooglemaps94Thanks for watching. I'm guilty of many things, but being lazy isn't one of them. As I state in the video, I learned I had the discontinued, smaller size seal in my engine, so there's no buying a direct fit seal that could go in in one piece without modification to the case. I've offered a different solution here for those who have the same issue.
I’ve got you but is not that difficult to get the right one, davidsilverspares.uk, there is also a Yamaha straight fit for the cx mechanical seal (can’t recall the part number).
I didn’t said you were lazy, I said that taking apart the mechanical seal to install it having the engine off the bike and open was wrong as mechanical seal comes in one piece and should be installed as is, cheers!!✊🏻
@@carlosgooglemaps94 You keep calling it one piece when it's obviously 3 pieces held together with glue. The part that he reused was in perfect condition and wasn't what failed. Nothing lazy about it. It's not a complicated high tech fragile component that's worthy of taking the engine apart for. It's a simple mechanical seal.
Great video. Question; on minute 3:00 you showed the little hole for coolant drip in case of failure. Now, if from that same hole it drips oil, that means the seal from the oil side is giving up, correct? That’s actually my situation. Thanks for your help.
@@miguelatambucho748 Yes, you are correct. Water seal on one side, oil seal on the other, seep hole in the middle. Whatever fluid is coming out the whole indicates which seal is compromised. Thanks for watching!
Scotchbrite can shed gritty particles, so caution use carefully and clean thoroughly.
Question: The 3 yellow wires from the old stator were oriented in the 3-pin plug a specific way, does it matter where the black wires go in the new 3-pin, or are they all the same?
Thanks for watching! Doesn't matter. The power coming off the stator is AC so no polarity considerations necessary.
@@UrbanMonkTV Excellent, thank you. Going to put mine in today.
what an excellent presentation. thank you. I have an '81 cx500 custom with a water-seal problem. you gave me hope. Where would you order the seal from?
I ordered an inexpensive one off eBay. There is a direct fit version available from a UK company, but it is quite a bit more expensive. Thanks for watching!
Babbitts online has them also
9:49 no sealant? better putting some even it seems well encased, i believe it's factory mounted with sealant, new ones also got kind of sealant already on. am i right?
I can't say that I remember seeing evidence of a sealant on the og I took out, but you could be right. That said, it is a very tight fit and haven't seen any evidence of coolant in the oil since. Not sure of long term. Thanks for watching and raising the question!
@@UrbanMonkTV it's true, maybe i'm a little too careful but it would be just a shame if it happened, it's not for what it costs, i believe it worth it, Vmax 1200 have it peg with bond sealant, thx
hi , where can l find a replacement impeller and general parts for gl500 honda bikes?
That may be a difficult part to find new or aftermarket. But if you can find a used one on eBay, it is a non-wearing item typically and used/old wouldn't matter. Thank you for watching.
I'm changing the water pump oil seal and machinical seal but my impeller is stuck on and won't budge any advice you could give me so I can get it off without breaking anything thanks
I'd heat it with torch. It is aluminum and the shaft is steel, so it'll expand faster. A little heat and some light taps with a mallet and it should come off. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV thank you worked like a charm
I now sell the smaller seal. Honda have never sold it and won't admit to it. price is £29.99 post free in uk
Thanks Alan. How do people connect with you to purchase?
@@UrbanMonkTV By now you can get them from Ali for peanuts.
The cover hole is supposed to be 1 mm smaller than seal for a tight fit to seal water a new metal piece has red paint on it to seal......I bought mine at the dealer 45.00 for the entire thing plus 2.00 for crush washers
Thanks for watching and throwing in here.
The two pieces are ceramic and carbon.
When the bike sits they go dry and pit out on startup
Thanks for watching.
Hi where can I find seals to buy
Thanks for watching! I got mine from eBay, but there are other sources. Mine required modification of course as shown in the video. I also have a video that covers how I go about finding difficult/rare parts. ua-cam.com/video/yFCIXNbDokM/v-deo.html
@@UrbanMonkTV thank you I will check the video out
Wheres the logic in this strange variation of Sheps method - why did you take out the metal cup? And you didnt cover the most crucial part - how to get cup or full assembly in. Tools or ideas...
Thanks for watching
Pourquoi enlever le carter moteur , enlever le joint moteur dans le cadre , 30 ans que je roule en silverwing..........
Merci d'avoir regardé! J'espère comprendre votre question. Je voulais afficher la suppression du moteur sur ma chaîne, car cela serait utile à de nombreux téléspectateurs.
Isn't it simpler to just replace the water pump
Thanks for watching. That is the water pump. There is not a separate assembly that makes up the water pump.
thanks man I learned from your video
Thank you for watching!