Bill's way of doing rings is exactly how I was taught over 20 years ago (or use the total seal quick seal dry film). So many guys do and preach the the dunk method.
No rod bolt stretch guage? As a engine assembler myself, I feel that this tool is nessecary to get the proper and most accurate torque reading out of a bolt/stud vombo on both the rod bolts and main bolts...especially when using ARP parts.
i build engines at work and they told us not to have the compression ring and oil scraper ring gaps in the same area... they have to be oppisite each other????
@EndlessSW20 THANK YOU! I am enjoying watching this either way, but stretch bolts should be fastened using a stretch gauge. Not only that, ARP recommends (on any fasteners I've seen from them) that if you can't use a stretch gauge, you are supposed torque, break, torque, break and final torque their fasteners. Also, I never use moly where it can contaminate the sump. It's extremely slick and has the potential to prevent the rings from seating. I use motor oil and a stretch gauge.
I think if you oil the rings they wount seal properly... What i do before the installation of the pistons is that i use a white towell and wipe the cylinder bore. If there is some dirt on it i clean the bore again. If you don't do this the remaining dirt can break the edges of the rings and they wount seal...
Kaase has a new one piece rear main seal for the big block Fords. You should be able to use that one. You make a single cut in the seal on the dot and wrap it around the crank before you drop it in. Put a dab of rtv on the joint that you rotate to the center of the block side so that joint is as high as possible when the motor is in.
his remark was for the oil ring end gaps around the oil expander ring! i cant believe so many of you guys are trying to correct him! "the internet gremlins are out tonight! "
He just said the second ring is an oil scraper ring at 2:38. I do believe this to be wrong... Ive always been taught that is a compression ring.... I don't know if he didn't mean to say that or what but if he honestly believes that then I think hes incorrect... If im wrong somebody please let me know because maybe they have two oil rings and one compression on some older vehicles. Thanks
@LYinKansas With the remaining oil left from the trans fluid wipe down and the, oil on te skirts that's all you need. If it was going to be stored or sit for some extended time prior to using it, I would guess he'd do assemble it accordingly. I've been wiping down cylinders for over 20 years with trans fluid just prior to assembly. All this time to find another who does the same. Been trying to pass that on for years. Glad to see this here. ;o)
Cylinders should be wiped down with a light oil, right after honing, carbon steel rings in a cast iron block, are going to cut there seating no matter how much oil is on the cylinder walls. Oiling the cylinders is a must to stave-off cast iron from rusting...!
i highly doubt you have more experience then bill he has been building race winning engines prolly longer then you've been alive so go lay down and get some bunk rest.
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Bill's way of doing rings is exactly how I was taught over 20 years ago (or use the total seal quick seal dry film). So many guys do and preach the the dunk method.
@TheMrhoneycutt They are JE Pistons and Lunati H-beam big block chevy rods.
I realize this is a decade ago, but what sort of JE pistons did you use for this?
nice set up
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP 2024
No rod bolt stretch guage? As a engine assembler myself, I feel that this tool is nessecary to get the proper and most accurate torque reading out of a bolt/stud vombo on both the rod bolts and main bolts...especially when using ARP parts.
i build engines at work and they told us not to have the compression ring and oil scraper ring gaps in the same area... they have to be oppisite each other????
@EndlessSW20 THANK YOU! I am enjoying watching this either way, but stretch bolts should be fastened using a stretch gauge. Not only that, ARP recommends (on any fasteners I've seen from them) that if you can't use a stretch gauge, you are supposed torque, break, torque, break and final torque their fasteners.
Also, I never use moly where it can contaminate the sump. It's extremely slick and has the potential to prevent the rings from seating. I use motor oil and a stretch gauge.
I think if you oil the rings they wount seal properly... What i do before the installation of the pistons is that i use a white towell and wipe the cylinder bore. If there is some dirt on it i clean the bore again. If you don't do this the remaining dirt can break the edges of the rings and they wount seal...
Are those J&E Pistons and Manley Rods?If so nice combo.
don't u got ring expander
I USE SEMEN
Kaase has a new one piece rear main seal for the big block Fords. You should be able to use that one. You make a single cut in the seal on the dot and wrap it around the crank before you drop it in. Put a dab of rtv on the joint that you rotate to the center of the block side so that joint is as high as possible when the motor is in.
wow.
his remark was for the oil ring end gaps around the oil expander ring! i cant believe so many of you guys are trying to correct him!
"the internet gremlins are out tonight! "
He just said the second ring is an oil scraper ring at 2:38. I do believe this to be wrong... Ive always been taught that is a compression ring.... I don't know if he didn't mean to say that or what but if he honestly believes that then I think hes incorrect... If im wrong somebody please let me know because maybe they have two oil rings and one compression on some older vehicles. Thanks
@LYinKansas
With the remaining oil left from the trans fluid wipe down and the, oil on te skirts that's all you need. If it was going to be stored or sit for some extended time prior to using it, I would guess he'd do assemble it accordingly.
I've been wiping down cylinders for over 20 years with trans fluid just prior to assembly. All this time to find another who does the same. Been trying to pass that on for years. Glad to see this here. ;o)
Never n i mean never use an impact gun wen building a motor its the first thing i was shown
You'll notice the electric gun was only used to spin the nuts down and that a torque wrench was used to set proper torque.
Cylinders should be wiped down with a light oil, right after honing, carbon steel rings in a cast iron block, are going to cut there seating no matter how much oil is on the cylinder walls. Oiling the cylinders is a must to stave-off cast iron from rusting...!
i highly doubt you have more experience then bill he has been building race winning engines prolly longer then you've been alive so go lay down and get some bunk rest.
🤣😂😂
I USE SEMEN