As a Swedish auto tech with 30 years under my belt I would argue that Volvo's PCV system probably would work just fine if oil changes / oil quality was followed as manufacturer recommended. Running the engine to far over due (mileage) and using cheap oil will result in sludge and coke (carbon) buildup, as you saw for yourself. I did work 10 years in Dallas Texas as a tech for Chrysler, and lots of cars/trucks ran way over oil change intervals and then get a quick-lube oil change with what ever brand name oil. The PCV system on these Volvo engines is a rather complex system, consider it work both during vacuum and boost pressure. If you don't maintain these engine you are getting problems from the PCV system. And when it comes to oil change intervals, you can't just go after the mileage an independent shop tells you. You have to consider driving habits too and weather, short drives every day or few drives a week = more frequently oil changes because you never get oil hot enough to cook water and other things out of the oil. Same with weather, driving in hot weather compare to colder weather = more frequently oil changes. Or driving on dusty roads ever day = more frequently oil changes.
It’s true. Frequent oil changes with the recommended grade and specific oil will help prevent PCV issues , although not completely. System design does play a role . This car came to me in this condition and I am trying to to prolong its life with regular and proper maintenance. Sometimes, the damage is done but I’ve seen many abused engines limp into old age once they are cleaned up and maintained with care .
@@EverydayProjects When it comes to Volvo PCV system I have to disagree with you. Until a first owner of a car with this system can show me, black on white, regular maintenance after Volvo recommendation's and with Volvo's recommended oil and still gets sludge and carbon buildup. Well until that happen I believe this system will work as designed. We could develop it a bit, @ what mileage will the PCV system start to have issues? 10,50,100K miles, if the PCV system design play a role why not having an issue from day one? Why having issues after a lot of years and high mileage, just think about it?
@@SwedesGarage Good points. Always open to opinions and ideas. Many owners don’t follow original manufacturer advice that leads to problems later on. I am just about to change the auto transmission fluid . This car came with unknown fluid age and it is discoloured. I’ll be using Mobil 3309
@@EverydayProjects Yeah, was the first thing I did when I bought a 105,000 miles 1998 V70R back in 2005. But I flushed it, and it toke almost 20 lit (5,3 gallon) Mobil oil until I got nice red color fluid out of it.
@@SwedesGarage I bought 18 litres yesterday. Will be flushing it on video someday soon. I did a lot of looking for a compatible fluid and The Mobil 3309 meets the Aisin specs.
Very good video here! Liked and subscribed because you deserved it. I have a few comments. First off, your idea of removing the intake manifold with the intercooler pipe and throttle body still attached is a very good idea. However, removing the fan assembly and unplugging the TB connector beforehand would help you also. In addition to that part, going back in with the pipe disconnected from the TB will make it easier to guide the pipe back into the intercooler without fussing with it. The clamp for the pipe to the TB is easy to access when the fan assembly is removed. Another tip is leave the PS pump in place but remove the alternator to gain easy access to the banjo bolt. This is also easy with the fan removed. Then when putting the oil pan back on, a couple of threaded 2" long guide pins will help align the pan without fear of smearing the anerobic sealant. Lastly, for goodness' sake, after all that work, use the new O ring that came with your filter and put a new cooler on that thing. Thanks for this! It had my attention for sure.🔧
Thanks! Im going to do another video sometime this year. I have to change the PCV lines and that means removing the intake manifold on the 2001 V70XC. Stay tuned
@EverydayProjects I'm a new owner of a 2002 V70xc with a R spec engine. I'm trying to figure out exactly what I have. In the process of getting all basic maintenance caught up plus some goodies as I get a chance.
I just used the dipstick tube for a crankcase vent into a oil catch can. Zero cost. Well almost, a piece of rubber hose and a pickle jar that I had laying. Works great! No oil leaks or burning oil.
I got through a 100% blocked oil drain back passage with a 1 ft cable on a drill with easy! If anyone is having trouble. I tried the wire trick for probably 30 40 minutes and could only go in 4 inches. Started looking around the garage and found the cable. Chucked it up in the drill and was though it in less than 10 seconds 13:29
I'm going to do another segment that shows changing out the PCV hoses and installing new ones and a new oil separator. I just haven't gotten to that yet. I bought a kit on Rockauto that included all the hoses (some of them tiny that are prone to clogging up) and a new separator for about $100 Canadian. The kit by SKP is recommended, as it's the less expensive option. Best of luck if you get to the repair before I post the update. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. I have several videos on my channel about the Volvos I own (2001 V70XC and 2004 XC70). Cheers!
@@EverydayProjects I live remotely in the yukon (0 volvo specialists) so I rely so much on youtube to fix stuff and not get ripped off. I managed to change my own TB (and the connector towards the ECU) which I'm very proud of, but of course non of this would have happened if it wasn't that someone else posted step by steps do's and don'ts. I did the glove test which is sucking but iI hear sometimes you can still have a clogged PCV even if it "passes" the test. I'll definitely contribute to your video via "thanks" if you end up doing it... I'll check now on rockauto so I get ready all the parts needed :)
Thanks. Cutting open the old one and weighing it compared to a new one was fun to do. Lesson learned. I will forevermore keep up the maintenance on this system, plus I have switched up to Castrol Edge full synthetic engine oil despite the price.
@@EverydayProjects incredible the amount of engineering these volvos have. Picked up an 08 s60 with 220k miles. No rust. Still runs pretty great ,but this pcv job is top priority.
@@lmtdgvrnmnt3918 buy the hose kit and separator at Rockauto.com. Good idea to change the O rings on the oil pick up inside the pan too. They are a common cause of oil starvation to the top end. Good luck. Any questions / anytime right here👍
There are PVC hoses that I will change on this car too. There is a kit with the oil separator and the hoses available on Rock Auto dot com. SKP brand. They clog up and cause trouble Good Luck!
Got to give you a lot of kudos Craig cause that’s one puzzle I would never tackle 😂. Fun watching you doing your thing, it’s definitely an adventure and I can see why you enjoy doing these things Brother! 👍🏻
Thanks Doug. A puzzle it is but once a guy is inside these things a few times it becomes easier and looks less like spaghetti. I appreciate your observations and comments. Have a good week and I hope you are getting ready for another big season over on Pinetreeline. All the Best !
✌🏻💚🙏🏻 Re doing one my xc70's, tore head off and was probably just an intake gasket 😮, well pvc was clogged, well lets just rebuild it all since i am in there.. Great vid and my style, carboard and plywood 💪🏻
Many thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video. Best Wishes with your project. By all means, tell us here how it goes. It would make for interesting reading to many. Thanks again!
Always nice to have some spare parts...just like your collection of trimmer parts out back...and you didn't think I was paying attention. Have a great week, Renaldo!
On engines with this type of cloggong, as well as EGR coolers I've found that old style EZ Off oven cleaner is the only snake oil that works. CAUTION. aluminum will etch, so don't use where it would cause issues.
Hello, make sure to watch “changing Volvo PCV hoses…” video that I posted on my channel last month. The hoses should be changed at the same time as the separator. Best wishes from British Columbia, Canada. 🇨🇦
Yes, I use PB Blaster too. Thanks for watching. These PCV systems on Volvos are notorious for clogging up. The glove test on the oil filler cap will tell you if the system is in need of service. Volvo is strict about the oil they recommend and also about staying away from oil additives, primarily, I believe, because of this system clogging up with the use of sub-standard oil. Glad to have you along. More to come about this and other vehicles here on Everyday Projects.
Why hook the seporator hose back up to the engine? Simply run a hose from the seporator down through the splash pan and plug the hole in the block. Let the oil drip from the hose under splash pan under the car or into a soda bottle laying on the splash pan. Drill a hole and hot glue the hose through it. I pulled my 2007 xc70 throddle body and didn't remove the intake. All you need is a medium size 1/4 ratchet, a short 8mm and a deep 8mm scokets. Also, use a wide strait screw driver to help pop off those electric connectors. Slowly and evenly is the key. Right now I'm wating on a new throddle body. I'm going to try and remove my seporator too now that I knew where the bolts are. Also, watch those alternator connetions. Always disconnect the negative battery cable FIRST😉 I'LL GIVE YOU PROPS FOR ALL THAT WORK WHILE SHOOTING GOOD STABLE VIDEO WITHOUT CURSSING UP A STORM!! 😂
Thanks for the tips and advice. I try to teach as I would like to be taught. I keep swearing limited to special occasions haha The oil separator is a joke. You are probably right about just routing a vent line into a bottle instead. They ALL plug up!! Every Volvo of the era has the same oil separator issues!! Keep in touch, I'd like to hear more of your adventures!
@@EverydayProjects I found a canister style seporator on ebay. 1in 1out ( I won't connect the out back up to the bottom of the block) the canister has a breather style top that unscrews at the breater. It should be easy to clean out during every oil change. I think I'm going to try and make it work with some West Virginia "engine-newaty", sorry I couldn't help the pun! I'll share a link to it and details if I can get it to work. Besides the out on the block and the back in on the block, what are the other hoses job. The ones you took off the turbo and water cooler and any others? I dont want to cut off vacuum or pressure where its needed. And I definitely dont want to plug up the block and have it blowout a gasket somewhere else that will be much harder to repair later. You made that job look easy and I know it can't go that smooth. I'd hate to see what you save the CURSSING for! Hmmm something like the drive shaft to the "Hellex"(spelt wrong, but right) in front of the AWD motor! I spent a week under the car and on utube trying to figure it out til I watched the right video that showed the shank and bolt method to popping it apart. That drive shaft is crazy and whoever put that motor tucked up in there behind it should #$@÷=$@%€£&#$$@$##%÷*€£!!! If you know what I mean. 😂 Well, heres to another 180,000+ miles! Ill deffanently see ya around now I got you subcribed. Take care and thanks again!
You buy a cheap manual choke cable, pull out the center wire, cut an 18" section off and use that in a drill chuck, and drill right through to the pan, like a plumbers drain snake.
Great job! I just did the PVC System on my 2004 S60 2.5t today! You took a little different approach to it as I did but the results were the same. My oil trap was pretty gunked up but not solid carbon packed. I have 200k miles on the car and I've done this job back at 100k. You got me thinking about dropping the pan and cleaning out the that tube just to be safe. I've always run the recommended Castrol oil and wonder what made you switch? Thanks for sharing, you made it look much easier than it is...that banjo bolt under the intake manifold about killed me! I sub'd and will be going back through you videos for other ideas.
Thanks. I read about castrol oil only and found that most modern synthetic oils are considered acceptable to run in these. I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. Never more. Glad to have you along for the journey.
@@EverydayProjectsDo you think synthetic oil is better than conventional oil as far as sludge prevention? I've always wondered but too nervous about switching...
@@MrBowNaxe synthetic oils have come a long way. Castrol Edge full synthetic is probably the best but so many others meet the specs. It comes down to what you can afford. Overall, synthetic oils are better.
Thanks Peter. I have been picking at cars and engines for many years, still getting my hands dirty and learning things all the time. I'm not always succesful but do most all of my own work. Thanks for watching and hope to see more of your videos soon.
What a video man..... Down to the orings💪🏽.... Make no mistake, it does not look easy, but it's a volvo.... Great video I have to do my S60R.. Thanks again
It did not look easy to get to the oil trap and I was surprised how blocked it was, the inside of the old one was horrible. Great job getting this done but it did look like a huge job
Car manufacturers aren't on our side when it comes to accessing certain components such as this oil separator. Also, the design of this particular separator has very small ports that clog easily. I will be uploading a follow up video showing the install of the separator and the hoses. This video was getting a bit too long to include everything. Take care and thanks for watching!
When looking around these petrol engine videos, then I start to notice that these petrol engines look kinda similar to disel engines. Unfortunately not many videos about disel engines. Pcv system seems to be in same housing tough as oil filter. I seem to be having also issues with pcv, pressure in the engine and small oil leak on cam case seal
A clogged PCV system will cause the "Glove" to inflate (where a properly functioning PCV system will actual suck the glove down). It will cause cam seals to leak too! so best get in there and clean it out and change the hoses and separator box. Not sure where you are located, but there is a great online parts store called Rockauto.com and they have everything you'll need...perhaps for the diesel too.
I'm a s-l-o-w mechanic so a job like this, including a thorough pan clean-out would take me the best part of a weekend: a few hours Friday evening, most of the day Saturday and finish up on Sunday. Of course I have to take into account drinking coffee and staring off into space. LOL Some would do it all in one day. Best Wishes from British Columbia, Canada ! Craig Everyday Projects
Thanks again Craig for this excellent video . As these cars get older and up in the miles we DiYers inevitably must do the PCV . A weekend sounds realistic. Fun time .
@ 42:09 I'm pretty sure the oil pick up tube is not pushed in enough...you're not supposed to see the green gasket when it's installed correctly, it has to go deeper into the hole
When the two bolts are tight on the pickup tube, it’s in as far as it can go. Perhaps it’s the aftermarket o-ring that lets a little show. Thanks for noticing that.
Awesome video! I just bought a 2003 XC70 for my son and we definately need to do the PCV service asap. Should be a good bonding experience :). I did want to ask if you torqued those oil pan bolt to a specific volvo spec? I once dropped the pan on a 1993 Jeep Chorokee and did not tightened the bolts to spec and you guess it, oil leaks right away. Had to eventually take it to the dealer. Lesson learned. LOL, Thanks for the video!
Congratulations on your purchase of the XC70. There is a (mini) cult following for the P2 (early 2000s) Volvo body style that includes the car you have. It has a timeless, muscle car in sheep's clothing look with elegant lines. And the grill and front bumper cover are a classy look recognized everywhere. I did not torque the oil pan bolts but made sure they were tight without overdoing it. I have a playlist on my channel of all the Volvo repairs. I found the attached torque chart that may come in handy. If you haven't already subscribed, it would be appreciated. Glad to be of help and hope to see you on here again! www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/
@@EverydayProjects Well, we've been working very slow due to weather here in Cleveland. We've ordered a few more things from FCP Euro and we're ready to tackle the PCV this weekend! Been watching your video over and over especially the dropping of the pan parts:) as I have a feeling i'm gonna have to do it. I'm also replacing a whole bunch of other stuff while I'm in there like the power steering pump, thermostat housing, coolant hoses, maybe throttle body,. Do I need to disconnect the battery before I start? Oh and I discovered a bunch of oil all over the timing belt. Will I have to change all those seals and perform a timing belt job after?
@@mandobizar The oil on the timing belt is most likely from the camshaft seals. I would remedy that oil leak before I drove the car again. Oil on the timing belt may weaken the belt and /or cause the belt to jump timing. The camshaft seals leak when the PCV system is clogged resulting in higher crankcase pressures. If the glove test on the oil filler cap shows the glove inflating on engine idle, the PCV system is certainly clogged. Your plan to change the PCV components is good but I'd worry about the oil on the timing belt too. If you can park the car for a while and tackle the camshaft seals and timing belt too, it would be better. You may be able to spray-clean the timing belt and area under its cover with brake cleaner to remove the oil as a temporary measure, but if it was me, I'd get in there and change the seals, timing belt, water pump and idler before venturing far.
@@EverydayProjects I agree. I certainly wouldn't want to drive it like that. I'm still debating whether to do the timing belt myself. I guess I'll decide after this PCV job and possibly dropping of the pan :) While I'm in there I give the TB area a good clean too. FYI: I've got several decent quotes from local volvo indy shops for TB, WP and camshaft seals that are not too far from me. We'll see. Thanks!
How many k`s were on this engine? I`m wondering if putting 300 ml of diesel in the oil as a flush would help with cleaning the passages through the separator? Good video btw Thanks for sharing. Cheers Also instead of thinners I wonder if petrol as a solvent would be better as it`s more compatible with oil etc
@@DaMan1964 320, 000 Kim’s on this engine. I would avoid solvents added to the oil to flush. Volvos are fussy engines and their recommended service procedures are best. Go to rockauto.com, buy a PCV hose kit and separator and maybe even the o-rings for the pan seals and do the work of changing all of these components. Bummer, yes. But it’s the way to go. I have all the videos on my Volvo playlist at the homepage of my channel. Sorry, but that’s the thing to do. Solvents won’t clean out the type of gunk you saw in the video, not added to the oil without risking an oil starvation issue to bearings, etc. Good luck and please share and subscribe. I have an email address in the description if you have more specific questions or want to chat. Cheers. Craig
What about the turbo oil return line? Was it clogged and how did you get to it? I find it is a serious challenge to get it off of the turbo due to very limited access.
The turbo oil return line was free of obstruction. They are difficult to access and remove/install. If you have the all-wheel-drive model (which most are) the angle gear is right in the way, as you discovered. I have a video on my channel where I install a new cylinder head on a 2001 V70 2.4T. I laid beneath the car once it was supported very well and securely, and used 1/4 inch drive extensions to reach up to the bolts. In fact, I changed the Torx-head originals to hex bolts for the ease of removal at any later date. The Torx heads often rust and the hole strips. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/Q-X44O8riro/v-deo.html
looks like this was neglected oil change intervals lol oil doesn't sludge up that bad unless neglected. volvo nut for 10 years, 4th s60r, fully built myself etc... the pcv on this does such. i removed the stock box completely and ran my own lines. return to the back of the motor :)
Yes this car was neglected. It all happened before I got it. Because these older Volvos are all wheel drive, and are now very inexpensive to acquire, they often get used off-road by those that would abuse rather than appreciate their wonderful engineering --and style. This one had the tell-tale marks in the paint of the car having been driven through brush (as well as damage underneath from bottoming out). It's in good hands now, though. I'll do my best to keep it working well.
Nope, the head gasket was fine, but I did change the head and install a new gasket at the time. This oil separator system was in the car when I bought it and it doesn't look like it was ever changed. Maybe the milky oil has another cause besides water leaking into it???
Yes, and also from a lack of oil changes. This car sat for several years before I picked it up and everything needed cleaning. It is entirely possible that moisture was wicked into the oil in that time. @@tdr1257
Yes. Do a glove test. Remove the oil filler cap and place a rubber glove over the opening. Start the engine. If the glove inflates, the PCV system needs service. If the glove gets sucked down, and completely de-flates, the PCV system is working as it should.
@@EverydayProjectsthanks for the reply. I will try that. I have and issue with my 2,4t. It have a tick noice from i think is the lifters. I took a screwdriver and took my ear down to it and listened. It sounds like its coming from the lifters. Is there a know problem on these engines which can make it sound like that. I dont when the oil last was changed. Could it be something like that maybe. The oil level is full. I just think it would be weird if the lifters needs to be replaced when it only have 200k km on it.
@@zilasmedz9083 I have the 2.4T engine and they do make a sound that sounds like it could be the lifters, but it's a normal sound usually. I posted a SHORT of the exact noise. Look for it under the SHORTs tab at the top of my channel. One thing about the oil. Volvo recommends Castrol, so try using Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W30 and a good quality oil filter. (I know this particular oil is expensive!). All the best. Any other questions, I will do my best to help.
@@EverydayProjects thank you so much. I just watched you short. I just thought it was really loud mine. You can also hear it when you accelerate inside the car a little bit. I could hear it became louder when you came closer to the valve cover. Same as mine. I was thinking maybe cleaning the oil pan and give it some new oil and a bosch filter. I have been reading that it is a comon problem with that. Like you are doing in the video with the o ring sealings at the oil pick up and the rest of the o rings. So maybe chance them and clean the oil pan. And some new oil and filter. I just did the glove test. It sucked it in. So im glad thats ok
@@zilasmedz9083 There are o-rings on the pan flange that need replacing. If they are flattened or defective, they can result is lower oil pressure reaching the top of the engine. Yes, that's a common problem. Dropping the pan and cleaning it all out isn't too difficult because these pans don't have anything in the way beneath them. I show the o-ring change in one of my videos too.
Yes, the clogging of the PCV system can be traced to a lack of frequent oil changes, poor quality oil and the addition of oil supplements. Volvo recommends Castrol oil with no additives (but I do use some Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in mine, with no issues going forward.) This car came to me in this condition, and without knowing its service history, I'd say it was a victim of infrequent oil changes and perhaps cheaper oil. Currently, I use Castrol Edge full synthetic 5w-30 with about 1/4 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer added to the crankcase on each change. I change the oil and filter at 3000 miles and use a good quality oil filter.
Oil leaks is the primary one. The clogged PCV system allows crankcase pressure to build. It will most often press oil out at the camshaft and crank seals. Oil leaks at the camshaft seals leak oil onto the timing belt which can cause it to jump timing and because it’s an interference engine, this can ruin valves and pistons.
Oil consumption and blow by, causing rough idle and poor performance. Perform a glove test to see if the system is clogged. Take a new rubber glove and use an elastic band to secure the glove over the oil fill hole on the top of the engine. Run the engine and watch the glove. If the glove sucks down and deflates, the PCV system is operating as it should, but if the glove inflates and blows up like a balloon, the PCV system is not working and is plugged up.
@@EverydayProjects I sometimes have rough idle when cold (not only) wonder if it's realted ... I am aiming at the throttle body tho ... changed bushings, ignition coils, spark plugs already no change...
@@vicentepallamare2608 Do a compression test and see what the numbers are. Anything above 150 PSI per cylinder is good but even if the numbers are somewhat lower, it's important that you don't have one cylinder way different than the others. If that checks out, change the fuel filter and clean the throttle body (video of cleaning the throttle body ETM on my channel a couple of months ago). Strangely, even a failed engine mount can cause rough idle in these cars and the vibration will go through the whole chassis. Good luck!
That is certainly a set up I'm not familiar with! Including the gasket maker. Any idea on the effects of using it in cold weather? Keep up the great work Craig ✌
Volvo uses that anaerobic sealant on the head to camshaft cover too. It's weird, but it works ! The machined flat surfaces make it possible to use very little to achieve a leak-free seal. These volvo engines are built very strong....more like what you'd expect to see on a diesel than a gas engine. No stamped-steel oil pans for them, but solid, webbed cast pans and blocks that are built to last. Thanks Marc (j'ai un frère Marc donc c'est facile de se souvenir de ton nom- a la prochaine).
Question about the test to see if you need to drop the oil pan. If you blow air into the bottom hole and cover the bigger hole while doing this, the air will come up to the top. If you don't cover the bigger hole and blow air into the smaller hole, no air makes it to the top. This would seem logical to me being that if the bigger hole is open, air is escaping thus it never gets to the top. So my question is, are we supposed to not cover the bigger hole while doing this test and air should get to the top? Because to me it would seem that the air is escaping from that bigger hole. Hopefully I made sense.
The bottom hole is directly connected to the passage in the oil pan. If it is plugged with deposits, air will not pass through. If air passes through, you’ll hear oil bubbling in the pan and air will escape through the oil and into the crankcase. That’s good. The top hole is always connected to the crankcase above the oil level. It’s important that the bottom hole is clear because that’s where the separator drains. Of course, the top hole needs to be open too, but no oil passes through the top hole, just oil Vapour. This is just one test. Try the glove test on the oil filler cap with the engine running. If it inflates, the PCV system ( piping, separator and maybe the drain into pan) are plugged up. If the glove, instead, is sucked down, the system is still working.
Thank you for getting back to me. The Glove test passed but the air doesn't get to the top unless I cover the bigger hole. Do you recommend I drop the oil pan?
The bigger hole (that goes into the block) at the oil separator, just lets crankcase Vapor into the separator. If you have everything together and are running the engine to do the glove test, and the glove DEFLATES then the PCV system is working. Dropping the pan to check or clean out the separator drain passage is usually only indicated if the drain is blocked, but dropping the pan will give you confidence that everything down there is good. Also, it’s a good opportunity to change all the o rings, as I did in my video. There is an oil starvation issue that can rob the top end of the engine of adequate oil pressure caused by old, flattened oil rings at the pan. Order those and drop the pan and clean everything and then you’ll know what you have. If in doubt, drop and clean. Also, get the PCV hose kit from rock auto.com including a new separator and then you’re good for a long time.
If I may ask, where did you get the instructions to do this process? I'm doing this on a 2004 s60r and I believe the removal process and reinstall process might be slightly different.
@@jamessanchez3390 No written instructions, just years of experience working of different cars. I learned this particular car from scratch. I bought it a few years ago-sight unseen- and had it towed to my place. The engine was damaged and I dug in. The removal and install of the intake manifold isn't what I'd seen elsewhere but I found it easier than my first attempt. Please go to my channel Playlists and click on the Volvo repair tab. It has several videos you may find interesting or helpful. There are also videos in there of changing the P.C.V. hoses and separator not shown here. Thanks for the question. Any time you encounter a problem or want to ask more questions, please do so. I try to get back and answer all questions asked. Good luck!
These plug up all the time. The passage into the oil pan from the block is poorly designed. That's one reason they don't want any oil additives, just clean oil. Still, they plug up. Good luck.
As a Swedish auto tech with 30 years under my belt I would argue that Volvo's PCV system probably would work just fine if oil changes / oil quality was followed as manufacturer recommended. Running the engine to far over due (mileage) and using cheap oil will result in sludge and coke (carbon) buildup, as you saw for yourself. I did work 10 years in Dallas Texas as a tech for Chrysler, and lots of cars/trucks ran way over oil change intervals and then get a quick-lube oil change with what ever brand name oil. The PCV system on these Volvo engines is a rather complex system, consider it work both during vacuum and boost pressure. If you don't maintain these engine you are getting problems from the PCV system. And when it comes to oil change intervals, you can't just go after the mileage an independent shop tells you. You have to consider driving habits too and weather, short drives every day or few drives a week = more frequently oil changes because you never get oil hot enough to cook water and other things out of the oil. Same with weather, driving in hot weather compare to colder weather = more frequently oil changes. Or driving on dusty roads ever day = more frequently oil changes.
It’s true. Frequent oil changes with the recommended grade and specific oil will help prevent PCV issues , although not completely. System design does play a role . This car came to me in this condition and I am trying to to prolong its life with regular and proper maintenance. Sometimes, the damage is done but I’ve seen many abused engines limp into old age once they are cleaned up and maintained with care .
@@EverydayProjects When it comes to Volvo PCV system I have to disagree with you. Until a first owner of a car with this system can show me, black on white, regular maintenance after Volvo recommendation's and with Volvo's recommended oil and still gets sludge and carbon buildup. Well until that happen I believe this system will work as designed. We could develop it a bit, @ what mileage will the PCV system start to have issues? 10,50,100K miles, if the PCV system design play a role why not having an issue from day one? Why having issues after a lot of years and high mileage, just think about it?
@@SwedesGarage Good points. Always open to opinions and ideas. Many owners don’t follow original manufacturer advice that leads to problems later on. I am just about to change the auto transmission fluid . This car came with unknown fluid age and it is discoloured. I’ll be using Mobil 3309
@@EverydayProjects Yeah, was the first thing I did when I bought a 105,000 miles 1998 V70R back in 2005. But I flushed it, and it toke almost 20 lit (5,3 gallon) Mobil oil until I got nice red color fluid out of it.
@@SwedesGarage I bought 18 litres yesterday. Will be flushing it on video someday soon. I did a lot of looking for a compatible fluid and The Mobil 3309 meets the Aisin specs.
This is the best video about blocked PCV System and Cleanout. Thank you very much for this fantastic video.
You're very welcome! I'm glad to help.
Very good video here! Liked and subscribed because you deserved it. I have a few comments. First off, your idea of removing the intake manifold with the intercooler pipe and throttle body still attached is a very good idea. However, removing the fan assembly and unplugging the TB connector beforehand would help you also. In addition to that part, going back in with the pipe disconnected from the TB will make it easier to guide the pipe back into the intercooler without fussing with it. The clamp for the pipe to the TB is easy to access when the fan assembly is removed. Another tip is leave the PS pump in place but remove the alternator to gain easy access to the banjo bolt. This is also easy with the fan removed. Then when putting the oil pan back on, a couple of threaded 2" long guide pins will help align the pan without fear of smearing the anerobic sealant. Lastly, for goodness' sake, after all that work, use the new O ring that came with your filter and put a new cooler on that thing. Thanks for this! It had my attention for sure.🔧
Thanks
Best video on this I've seen. Thanks
Thanks! Im going to do another video sometime this year. I have to change the PCV lines and that means removing the intake manifold on the 2001 V70XC. Stay tuned
@EverydayProjects I'm a new owner of a 2002 V70xc with a R spec engine. I'm trying to figure out exactly what I have. In the process of getting all basic maintenance caught up plus some goodies as I get a chance.
I just used the dipstick tube for a crankcase vent into a oil catch can. Zero cost. Well almost, a piece of rubber hose and a pickle jar that I had laying. Works great! No oil leaks or burning oil.
That works! Simple fix and Smart idea!!
I got through a 100% blocked oil drain back passage with a 1 ft cable on a drill with easy! If anyone is having trouble. I tried the wire trick for probably 30 40 minutes and could only go in 4 inches. Started looking around the garage and found the cable. Chucked it up in the drill and was though it in less than 10 seconds 13:29
Great tip!
'04 owner here... Great Vid..!
Thanks! I hope it helps! These old Volvos are great, I really enjoy mine!
i have an xc 70 2004 and im dreading for the day i'd have to clean the pcv but this video is a masterpiece. thank you!
I'm going to do another segment that shows changing out the PCV hoses and installing new ones and a new oil separator. I just haven't gotten to that yet. I bought a kit on Rockauto that included all the hoses (some of them tiny that are prone to clogging up) and a new separator for about $100 Canadian. The kit by SKP is recommended, as it's the less expensive option. Best of luck if you get to the repair before I post the update. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. I have several videos on my channel about the Volvos I own (2001 V70XC and 2004 XC70). Cheers!
@@EverydayProjects I live remotely in the yukon (0 volvo specialists) so I rely so much on youtube to fix stuff and not get ripped off. I managed to change my own TB (and the connector towards the ECU) which I'm very proud of, but of course non of this would have happened if it wasn't that someone else posted step by steps do's and don'ts. I did the glove test which is sucking but iI hear sometimes you can still have a clogged PCV even if it "passes" the test. I'll definitely contribute to your video via "thanks" if you end up doing it... I'll check now on rockauto so I get ready all the parts needed :)
What a great comprehensive overview of the pcv system 👍
Thanks. Cutting open the old one and weighing it compared to a new one was fun to do. Lesson learned. I will forevermore keep up the maintenance on this system, plus I have switched up to Castrol Edge full synthetic engine oil despite the price.
@@EverydayProjects incredible the amount of engineering these volvos have. Picked up an 08 s60 with 220k miles. No rust. Still runs pretty great ,but this pcv job is top priority.
@@lmtdgvrnmnt3918 buy the hose kit and separator at Rockauto.com. Good idea to change the O rings on the oil pick up inside the pan too. They are a common cause of oil starvation to the top end. Good luck. Any questions / anytime right here👍
@@EverydayProjects thank you. Did you replace any banjo bolts?
Well done, very informative. I am investigating a 2005 xc90 pcv issue. Im hoping not to drop the pan but this video will help in that matter too.
There are PVC hoses that I will change on this car too. There is a kit with the oil separator and the hoses available on Rock Auto dot com. SKP brand. They clog up and cause trouble Good Luck!
Got to give you a lot of kudos Craig cause that’s one puzzle I would never tackle 😂. Fun watching you doing your thing, it’s definitely an adventure and I can see why you enjoy doing these things Brother! 👍🏻
Thanks Doug. A puzzle it is but once a guy is inside these things a few times it becomes easier and looks less like spaghetti. I appreciate your observations and comments. Have a good week and I hope you are getting ready for another big season over on Pinetreeline. All the Best !
✌🏻💚🙏🏻 Re doing one my xc70's, tore head off and was probably just an intake gasket 😮, well pvc was clogged, well lets just rebuild it all since i am in there.. Great vid and my style, carboard and plywood 💪🏻
Many thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video. Best Wishes with your project. By all means, tell us here how it goes. It would make for interesting reading to many. Thanks again!
Cool having a twin around comes in handy for parts and reference well at least for me that is👍🏽
Always nice to have some spare parts...just like your collection of trimmer parts out back...and you didn't think I was paying attention. Have a great week, Renaldo!
@@EverydayProjects hEHEHE got me!
Well done, very informative, thank you for sharing👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
On engines with this type of cloggong, as well as EGR coolers I've found that old style EZ Off oven cleaner is the only snake oil that works. CAUTION. aluminum will etch, so don't use where it would cause issues.
Great tip. Thanks.!!
Thanks a lot bro. Great tutorial
You're welcome. Glad to share this info.
Thank you for a very god video! I will do the same on my 2006 xc70 in a few dags. Greatings from Sweden!
Hello, make sure to watch “changing Volvo PCV hoses…” video that I posted on my channel last month. The hoses should be changed at the same time as the separator. Best wishes from British Columbia, Canada. 🇨🇦
Switch to PB blaster WD-40 is junk lol but good job very informative, I’m a 25 year mechanic Volvos aren’t my specialty.
Yes, I use PB Blaster too. Thanks for watching. These PCV systems on Volvos are notorious for clogging up. The glove test on the oil filler cap will tell you if the system is in need of service. Volvo is strict about the oil they recommend and also about staying away from oil additives, primarily, I believe, because of this system clogging up with the use of sub-standard oil. Glad to have you along. More to come about this and other vehicles here on Everyday Projects.
Why hook the seporator hose back up to the engine? Simply run a hose from the seporator down through the splash pan and plug the hole in the block. Let the oil drip from the hose under splash pan under the car or into a soda bottle laying on the splash pan. Drill a hole and hot glue the hose through it.
I pulled my 2007 xc70 throddle body and didn't remove the intake. All you need is a medium size 1/4 ratchet, a short 8mm and a deep 8mm scokets. Also, use a wide strait screw driver to help pop off those electric connectors. Slowly and evenly is the key. Right now I'm wating on a new throddle body. I'm going to try and remove my seporator too now that I knew where the bolts are. Also, watch those alternator connetions. Always disconnect the negative battery cable FIRST😉 I'LL GIVE YOU PROPS FOR ALL THAT WORK WHILE SHOOTING GOOD STABLE VIDEO WITHOUT CURSSING UP A STORM!! 😂
Thanks for the tips and advice. I try to teach as I would like to be taught. I keep swearing limited to special occasions haha The oil separator is a joke. You are probably right about just routing a vent line into a bottle instead. They ALL plug up!! Every Volvo of the era has the same oil separator issues!! Keep in touch, I'd like to hear more of your adventures!
@@EverydayProjects I found a canister style seporator on ebay. 1in 1out ( I won't connect the out back up to the bottom of the block) the canister has a breather style top that unscrews at the breater. It should be easy to clean out during every oil change. I think I'm going to try and make it work with some West Virginia "engine-newaty", sorry I couldn't help the pun! I'll share a link to it and details if I can get it to work. Besides the out on the block and the back in on the block, what are the other hoses job. The ones you took off the turbo and water cooler and any others? I dont want to cut off vacuum or pressure where its needed. And I definitely dont want to plug up the block and have it blowout a gasket somewhere else that will be much harder to repair later.
You made that job look easy and I know it can't go that smooth. I'd hate to see what you save the CURSSING for! Hmmm something like the drive shaft to the "Hellex"(spelt wrong, but right) in front of the AWD motor! I spent a week under the car and on utube trying to figure it out til I watched the right video that showed the shank and bolt method to popping it apart. That drive shaft is crazy and whoever put that motor tucked up in there behind it should #$@÷=$@%€£&#$$@$##%÷*€£!!! If you know what I mean. 😂
Well, heres to another 180,000+ miles! Ill deffanently see ya around now I got you subcribed. Take care and thanks again!
You buy a cheap manual choke cable, pull out the center wire, cut an 18" section off and use that in a drill chuck, and drill right through to the pan, like a plumbers drain snake.
Great Idea ! Thanks
great idea - thats what I'll do
Great job! I just did the PVC System on my 2004 S60 2.5t today! You took a little different approach to it as I did but the results were the same. My oil trap was pretty gunked up but not solid carbon packed. I have 200k miles on the car and I've done this job back at 100k. You got me thinking about dropping the pan and cleaning out the that tube just to be safe. I've always run the recommended Castrol oil and wonder what made you switch? Thanks for sharing, you made it look much easier than it is...that banjo bolt under the intake manifold about killed me! I sub'd and will be going back through you videos for other ideas.
Thanks. I read about castrol oil only and found that most modern synthetic oils are considered acceptable to run in these. I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. Never more. Glad to have you along for the journey.
@@EverydayProjectsDo you think synthetic oil is better than conventional oil as far as sludge prevention? I've always wondered but too nervous about switching...
@@MrBowNaxe synthetic oils have come a long way. Castrol Edge full synthetic is probably the best but so many others meet the specs. It comes down to what you can afford. Overall, synthetic oils are better.
Wow! Thanks.. I had no idea…
Glad to help
Love the videos but WAY beyond my confidence or experience. Love watching though!!!
Thanks Peter. I have been picking at cars and engines for many years, still getting my hands dirty and learning things all the time. I'm not always succesful but do most all of my own work. Thanks for watching and hope to see more of your videos soon.
Great Video!👌
Thank you😀Lots more to come!
What a video man..... Down to the orings💪🏽.... Make no mistake, it does not look easy, but it's a volvo....
Great video
I have to do my S60R..
Thanks again
You are very welcome! Thanks for the Kind words! Much appreciated.
It did not look easy to get to the oil trap and I was surprised how blocked it was, the inside of the old one was horrible. Great job getting this done but it did look like a huge job
Car manufacturers aren't on our side when it comes to accessing certain components such as this oil separator. Also, the design of this particular separator has very small ports that clog easily. I will be uploading a follow up video showing the install of the separator and the hoses. This video was getting a bit too long to include everything. Take care and thanks for watching!
When looking around these petrol engine videos, then I start to notice that these petrol engines look kinda similar to disel engines. Unfortunately not many videos about disel engines. Pcv system seems to be in same housing tough as oil filter. I seem to be having also issues with pcv, pressure in the engine and small oil leak on cam case seal
A clogged PCV system will cause the "Glove" to inflate (where a properly functioning PCV system will actual suck the glove down). It will cause cam seals to leak too! so best get in there and clean it out and change the hoses and separator box. Not sure where you are located, but there is a great online parts store called Rockauto.com and they have everything you'll need...perhaps for the diesel too.
Many thanks ;-)
I am glad that my video offered entertainment and (hopefully) some good information. All the best wishes to you!
Masterful job ! How long do you reckon a complete PCV system takes to replace along with a thorough oil pan clean ? Thank you . Greetings from Ireland
I'm a s-l-o-w mechanic so a job like this, including a thorough pan clean-out would take me the best part of a weekend: a few hours Friday evening, most of the day Saturday and finish up on Sunday. Of course I have to take into account drinking coffee and staring off into space. LOL Some would do it all in one day. Best Wishes from British Columbia, Canada ! Craig Everyday Projects
Thanks again Craig for this excellent video . As these cars get older and up in the miles we DiYers inevitably must do the PCV . A weekend sounds realistic. Fun time .
@ 42:09 I'm pretty sure the oil pick up tube is not pushed in enough...you're not supposed to see the green gasket when it's installed correctly, it has to go deeper into the hole
When the two bolts are tight on the pickup tube, it’s in as far as it can go. Perhaps it’s the aftermarket o-ring that lets a little show. Thanks for noticing that.
Awesome video! I just bought a 2003 XC70 for my son and we definately need to do the PCV service asap. Should be a good bonding experience :). I did want to ask if you torqued those oil pan bolt to a specific volvo spec? I once dropped the pan on a 1993 Jeep Chorokee and did not tightened the bolts to spec and you guess it, oil leaks right away. Had to eventually take it to the dealer. Lesson learned. LOL, Thanks for the video!
Congratulations on your purchase of the XC70. There is a (mini) cult following for the P2 (early 2000s) Volvo body style that includes the car you have. It has a timeless, muscle car in sheep's clothing look with elegant lines. And the grill and front bumper cover are a classy look recognized everywhere. I did not torque the oil pan bolts but made sure they were tight without overdoing it. I have a playlist on my channel of all the Volvo repairs. I found the attached torque chart that may come in handy. If you haven't already subscribed, it would be appreciated. Glad to be of help and hope to see you on here again!
www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/
Subscribed!! That torque chart will come in handy. @@EverydayProjects
@@EverydayProjects Well, we've been working very slow due to weather here in Cleveland. We've ordered a few more things from FCP Euro and we're ready to tackle the PCV this weekend! Been watching your video over and over especially the dropping of the pan parts:) as I have a feeling i'm gonna have to do it. I'm also replacing a whole bunch of other stuff while I'm in there like the power steering pump, thermostat housing, coolant hoses, maybe throttle body,. Do I need to disconnect the battery before I start? Oh and I discovered a bunch of oil all over the timing belt. Will I have to change all those seals and perform a timing belt job after?
@@mandobizar The oil on the timing belt is most likely from the camshaft seals. I would remedy that oil leak before I drove the car again. Oil on the timing belt may weaken the belt and /or cause the belt to jump timing. The camshaft seals leak when the PCV system is clogged resulting in higher crankcase pressures. If the glove test on the oil filler cap shows the glove inflating on engine idle, the PCV system is certainly clogged. Your plan to change the PCV components is good but I'd worry about the oil on the timing belt too. If you can park the car for a while and tackle the camshaft seals and timing belt too, it would be better. You may be able to spray-clean the timing belt and area under its cover with brake cleaner to remove the oil as a temporary measure, but if it was me, I'd get in there and change the seals, timing belt, water pump and idler before venturing far.
@@EverydayProjects I agree. I certainly wouldn't want to drive it like that. I'm still debating whether to do the timing belt myself. I guess I'll decide after this PCV job and possibly dropping of the pan :) While I'm in there I give the TB area a good clean too. FYI: I've got several decent quotes from local volvo indy shops for TB, WP and camshaft seals that are not too far from me. We'll see. Thanks!
How many k`s were on this engine? I`m wondering if putting 300 ml of diesel in the oil as a flush would help with cleaning the passages through the separator? Good video btw Thanks for sharing. Cheers Also instead of thinners I wonder if petrol as a solvent would be better as it`s more compatible with oil etc
@@DaMan1964 320, 000 Kim’s on this engine. I would avoid solvents added to the oil to flush. Volvos are fussy engines and their recommended service procedures are best. Go to rockauto.com, buy a PCV hose kit and separator and maybe even the o-rings for the pan seals and do the work of changing all of these components. Bummer, yes. But it’s the way to go. I have all the videos on my Volvo playlist at the homepage of my channel. Sorry, but that’s the thing to do. Solvents won’t clean out the type of gunk you saw in the video, not added to the oil without risking an oil starvation issue to bearings, etc. Good luck and please share and subscribe. I have an email address in the description if you have more specific questions or want to chat. Cheers. Craig
What about the turbo oil return line? Was it clogged and how did you get to it? I find it is a serious challenge to get it off of the turbo due to very limited access.
The turbo oil return line was free of obstruction. They are difficult to access and remove/install. If you have the all-wheel-drive model (which most are) the angle gear is right in the way, as you discovered. I have a video on my channel where I install a new cylinder head on a 2001 V70 2.4T. I laid beneath the car once it was supported very well and securely, and used 1/4 inch drive extensions to reach up to the bolts. In fact, I changed the Torx-head originals to hex bolts for the ease of removal at any later date. The Torx heads often rust and the hole strips. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/Q-X44O8riro/v-deo.html
looks like this was neglected oil change intervals lol
oil doesn't sludge up that bad unless neglected.
volvo nut for 10 years, 4th s60r, fully built myself etc... the pcv on this does such. i removed the stock box completely and ran my own lines. return to the back of the motor :)
Yes this car was neglected.
It all happened before I got it.
Because these older Volvos are all wheel drive, and are now very inexpensive to acquire, they often get used off-road by those that would abuse rather than appreciate their wonderful engineering --and style.
This one had the tell-tale marks in the paint of the car having been driven through brush (as well as damage underneath from bottoming out).
It's in good hands now, though. I'll do my best to keep it working well.
What are the torquing specs please??
I read on the Matthew's Volvo site that the oil pan bolt torque is 25-30 foot pounds.
The color of the oil in the trap indicates coolant mixing in. Is the head gasket failing?
Nope, the head gasket was fine, but I did change the head and install a new gasket at the time. This oil separator system was in the car when I bought it and it doesn't look like it was ever changed. Maybe the milky oil has another cause besides water leaking into it???
@@EverydayProjects it may be just condensated water from atmosphere. 😊
Yes, and also from a lack of oil changes. This car sat for several years before I picked it up and everything needed cleaning. It is entirely possible that moisture was wicked into the oil in that time.
@@tdr1257
Is there a way to check the pcv system before ordering it and taking it a part? My volvo has 200k km on it
Yes. Do a glove test. Remove the oil filler cap and place a rubber glove over the opening. Start the engine. If the glove inflates, the PCV system needs service. If the glove gets sucked down, and completely de-flates, the PCV system is working as it should.
@@EverydayProjectsthanks for the reply. I will try that. I have and issue with my 2,4t. It have a tick noice from i think is the lifters. I took a screwdriver and took my ear down to it and listened. It sounds like its coming from the lifters. Is there a know problem on these engines which can make it sound like that. I dont when the oil last was changed. Could it be something like that maybe. The oil level is full. I just think it would be weird if the lifters needs to be replaced when it only have 200k km on it.
@@zilasmedz9083 I have the 2.4T engine and they do make a sound that sounds like it could be the lifters, but it's a normal sound usually. I posted a SHORT of the exact noise. Look for it under the SHORTs tab at the top of my channel. One thing about the oil. Volvo recommends Castrol, so try using Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W30 and a good quality oil filter. (I know this particular oil is expensive!). All the best. Any other questions, I will do my best to help.
@@EverydayProjects thank you so much. I just watched you short. I just thought it was really loud mine. You can also hear it when you accelerate inside the car a little bit. I could hear it became louder when you came closer to the valve cover. Same as mine. I was thinking maybe cleaning the oil pan and give it some new oil and a bosch filter. I have been reading that it is a comon problem with that. Like you are doing in the video with the o ring sealings at the oil pick up and the rest of the o rings. So maybe chance them and clean the oil pan. And some new oil and filter. I just did the glove test. It sucked it in. So im glad thats ok
@@zilasmedz9083 There are o-rings on the pan flange that need replacing. If they are flattened or defective, they can result is lower oil pressure reaching the top of the engine. Yes, that's a common problem. Dropping the pan and cleaning it all out isn't too difficult because these pans don't have anything in the way beneath them. I show the o-ring change in one of my videos too.
In your opinion, are these problems caused almost entirely by lack of maintenance?
Yes, the clogging of the PCV system can be traced to a lack of frequent oil changes, poor quality oil and the addition of oil supplements.
Volvo recommends Castrol oil with no additives (but I do use some Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in mine, with no issues going forward.) This car came to me in this condition, and without knowing its service history, I'd say it was a victim of infrequent oil changes and perhaps cheaper oil.
Currently, I use Castrol Edge full synthetic 5w-30 with about 1/4 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer added to the crankcase on each change. I change the oil and filter at 3000 miles and use a good quality oil filter.
What issues would one notice if the system is clogged?
Oil leaks is the primary one. The clogged PCV system allows crankcase pressure to build. It will most often press oil out at the camshaft and crank seals. Oil leaks at the camshaft seals leak oil onto the timing belt which can cause it to jump timing and because it’s an interference engine, this can ruin valves and pistons.
Oil consumption and blow by, causing rough idle and poor performance. Perform a glove test to see if the system is clogged. Take a new rubber glove and use an elastic band to secure the glove over the oil fill hole on the top of the engine. Run the engine and watch the glove. If the glove sucks down and deflates, the PCV system is operating as it should, but if the glove inflates and blows up like a balloon, the PCV system is not working and is plugged up.
@@EverydayProjects I sometimes have rough idle when cold (not only) wonder if it's realted ... I am aiming at the throttle body tho ... changed bushings, ignition coils, spark plugs already no change...
@@vicentepallamare2608 Do a compression test and see what the numbers are. Anything above 150 PSI per cylinder is good but even if the numbers are somewhat lower, it's important that you don't have one cylinder way different than the others. If that checks out, change the fuel filter and clean the throttle body (video of cleaning the throttle body ETM on my channel a couple of months ago). Strangely, even a failed engine mount can cause rough idle in these cars and the vibration will go through the whole chassis. Good luck!
Also, clean or replace the fuel injectors. Video of injector cleaning on my channel too.
That is certainly a set up I'm not familiar with! Including the gasket maker. Any idea on the effects of using it in cold weather? Keep up the great work Craig ✌
Volvo uses that anaerobic sealant on the head to camshaft cover too. It's weird, but it works ! The machined flat surfaces make it possible to use very little to achieve a leak-free seal. These volvo engines are built very strong....more like what you'd expect to see on a diesel than a gas engine. No stamped-steel oil pans for them, but solid, webbed cast pans and blocks that are built to last. Thanks Marc (j'ai un frère Marc donc c'est facile de se souvenir de ton nom- a la prochaine).
Not well maintained, DON'T MODI THE SUMP you will get air into the oil and the oil becomes foam causing oil pressure to drop
This is how I got the car. It certainly needed to be cared for better. Thanks for your comments.
Question about the test to see if you need to drop the oil pan. If you blow air into the bottom hole and cover the bigger hole while doing this, the air will come up to the top. If you don't cover the bigger hole and blow air into the smaller hole, no air makes it to the top. This would seem logical to me being that if the bigger hole is open, air is escaping thus it never gets to the top. So my question is, are we supposed to not cover the bigger hole while doing this test and air should get to the top? Because to me it would seem that the air is escaping from that bigger hole. Hopefully I made sense.
The bottom hole is directly connected to the passage in the oil pan. If it is plugged with deposits, air will not pass through. If air passes through, you’ll hear oil bubbling in the pan and air will escape through the oil and into the crankcase. That’s good. The top hole is always connected to the crankcase above the oil level. It’s important that the bottom hole is clear because that’s where the separator drains. Of course, the top hole needs to be open too, but no oil passes through the top hole, just oil Vapour. This is just one test. Try the glove test on the oil filler cap with the engine running. If it inflates, the PCV system ( piping, separator and maybe the drain into pan) are plugged up. If the glove, instead, is sucked down, the system is still working.
Thank you for getting back to me. The Glove test passed but the air doesn't get to the top unless I cover the bigger hole. Do you recommend I drop the oil pan?
The bigger hole (that goes into the block) at the oil separator, just lets crankcase Vapor into the separator. If you have everything together and are running the engine to do the glove test, and the glove DEFLATES then the PCV system is working. Dropping the pan to check or clean out the separator drain passage is usually only indicated if the drain is blocked, but dropping the pan will give you confidence that everything down there is good. Also, it’s a good opportunity to change all the o rings, as I did in my video. There is an oil starvation issue that can rob the top end of the engine of adequate oil pressure caused by old, flattened oil rings at the pan. Order those and drop the pan and clean everything and then you’ll know what you have. If in doubt, drop and clean. Also, get the PCV hose kit from rock auto.com including a new separator and then you’re good for a long time.
If I may ask, where did you get the instructions to do this process? I'm doing this on a 2004 s60r and I believe the removal process and reinstall process might be slightly different.
@@jamessanchez3390 No written instructions, just years of experience working of different cars. I learned this particular car from scratch. I bought it a few years ago-sight unseen- and had it towed to my place. The engine was damaged and I dug in. The removal and install of the intake manifold isn't what I'd seen elsewhere but I found it easier than my first attempt. Please go to my channel Playlists and click on the Volvo repair tab. It has several videos you may find interesting or helpful. There are also videos in there of changing the P.C.V. hoses and separator not shown here. Thanks for the question. Any time you encounter a problem or want to ask more questions, please do so. I try to get back and answer all questions asked. Good luck!
Fyi, old fashion EZ Off Oven cleaner will restore to a like new shine.
That's a fantastic idea! I'll try EZ OFF
Very poor system. Just did the one in my 06 v70, there's no way there should be that little J-trap in the oil pan. Love the car otherwise
These plug up all the time. The passage into the oil pan from the block is poorly designed. That's one reason they don't want any oil additives, just clean oil. Still, they plug up. Good luck.