Took me much longer than I had anticipated to get around to being able to work on this project but I finished it today and your guide was super helpful and your case design really looks amazing in person, thank you for both the good design and guide :)
Your aggressively fast soldering technique with the angle tip was both outrageous to watch and inspiring to learn, haha! I need to try my thicker tips when mostly soldering pin headers and not be so gentle!! Great video, thanks for the upload! This is another project for me to make, for sure.
Solder wants to cling to hot, clean metal. It does not want to touch solder mask. So with good flux and solder, the solder will wet to the contacts without bridging, as long as you don't add too much. Fine tips aren't always best for fine work. They're best for avoiding hitting things you don't want to, but they transfer heat slowly, which means slower soldering and more heat soak.
He really does make it look easy. I tried his method with the angle tip and found I need to learn to ease off on physical pressure as I was accidentally removing minor amounts of solder mask with it. I do well with fine tips, but it takes so much longer to finish the job compared to the blade tip. Blade tip is also much easier to fix headers that aren't flush with the board.
Thanks for this very clear video. It was particularly helpful that you mentioned gotchas as you went. I just finished building one and am very happy with it. Your case looks great as well.
Thanks for the video. Something I want to do but got 0 patience on soldiering, no doubt I might bust something. Very nice of you of providing the shell for this diy kit, looks really good. I recently bought the Alter V3, pretty much the same but its pre-built instead (Save the heroes builders), only difference is I have to use the nes/famicom adapter as it don't have one right off the back, this one is a push button type and not the dial, looks overall different then the pre-built one but the overall function is the same. One more question, how much you looking to charge if you had one already pre-built?, like the one shown on this video, enclosure and all? Thanks again.
awesome video ma, thank you for putting it out there, I ordered the parts a few weeks back and will be building one of these for myself and a buddy who chipped in for parts. that said I do have a question for you, I downloaded the file for your case and really liked the purple color filament you used in one of the pictures, so if you don't mind me asking what filament was that one? if you don't remember that is fine but figured it didn't hurt to ask
@@kytor thank you so much for getting back to me, I'll look up the filament now. the color gave off n64 vibes which was perfect but it's hard to color match from videos lol. again, thanks for for both letting me know and for the video+print file, keep up the awesome work :)
You can buy DIY kits here: bonzosretro.shop/products/sanni-cart-reader-v5 (Bonzo is going to offer my shell in the future) Fully assembled here: www.ebay.com/itm/165949642296
@@kytor Wow... DIY kits already sold out. I guess that's to be expected for such a cool bit of kit. It would be nice if there were wishlists with all the items already added... but I guess I'll be doing it the hard way. :)
Even with the CIC I am unable to dump a SA1 based game, I used a P16F630 programmed with supercic-lock_p16f630.hex, programmer used INTEL HEX file format, programmed with a top of the line T56 program device,,, any ideas??? Thank you for your video.
If you have six slot adapter rev 1, you will need to cut two traces and install bodge wires. See this resolved issue: github.com/sanni/cartreader/issues/481 Otherwise, you may want to reach out in the Discussions on github.
Hi, thank you for such a fast reply, yes I have the 6 slot rev 1 PCB, no wonder it is not working, I will do this fix tomorrow and I will let you know back here, thank you again sir.@@kytor
@@notsuoh16Bit Sure thing. Just be extra careful and take your time, if I recall correctly those screenshots are a top down view, i.e. everything will be mirrored when viewed from the bottom of the board where the cuts are made. Quadruple check before you cut!
@@kytor Hi mate, I followed the instructions, terrible as that picture is I was able to pull it off flawless victory ✌️, now it dumps everything perfectly, checksums and CRC32 all perfect every time, first time, just goes to show, it is never the EPROM or programmed IC and always a wiring issue, this has been proven to me now more times than I can remember, anyway thank you so much for you guidance, you saved me a lot of heart pain. Lol, thank you. ;-)
Took me much longer than I had anticipated to get around to being able to work on this project but I finished it today and your guide was super helpful and your case design really looks amazing in person, thank you for both the good design and guide :)
Your aggressively fast soldering technique with the angle tip was both outrageous to watch and inspiring to learn, haha! I need to try my thicker tips when mostly soldering pin headers and not be so gentle!!
Great video, thanks for the upload! This is another project for me to make, for sure.
Solder wants to cling to hot, clean metal. It does not want to touch solder mask. So with good flux and solder, the solder will wet to the contacts without bridging, as long as you don't add too much.
Fine tips aren't always best for fine work. They're best for avoiding hitting things you don't want to, but they transfer heat slowly, which means slower soldering and more heat soak.
He really does make it look easy. I tried his method with the angle tip and found I need to learn to ease off on physical pressure as I was accidentally removing minor amounts of solder mask with it. I do well with fine tips, but it takes so much longer to finish the job compared to the blade tip. Blade tip is also much easier to fix headers that aren't flush with the board.
Thanks for this very clear video. It was particularly helpful that you mentioned gotchas as you went. I just finished building one and am very happy with it. Your case looks great as well.
Awesome build vid. I just finished assembling mine last night with the shell you made. Amazing design!
Awesome video and impressive enclosure! Can't wait to print one for myself.
Beautiful work. This might be something I can do.
fantastic guide. this is so well detailed and explained so well.
The major take away from this video for me is, I need to get a blade tip ASAP. 😂
Awesome build!
Nice! Thanks for sharing info about this project! 👍
Really looking forward to ordering one of your shells!
Great Video! I'm ordering a PCBs now to build my own. Quick question, I saw you created the SNES CIC board, but where does it go?
Pops right into the header underneath the top PCB.
Neat case. I got one by accident via a sanni reader bundle listing. Does the dust cover on the newer editions work on the older revision?
Yes, it does.
Thanks for the video.
Something I want to do but got 0 patience on soldiering, no doubt I might bust something.
Very nice of you of providing the shell for this diy kit, looks really good.
I recently bought the Alter V3, pretty much the same but its pre-built instead (Save the heroes builders), only difference is I have to use the nes/famicom adapter as it don't have one right off the back, this one is a push button type and not the dial, looks overall different then the pre-built one but the overall function is the same.
One more question, how much you looking to charge if you had one already pre-built?, like the one shown on this video, enclosure and all?
Thanks again.
does it read and write roms?
Great project.
awesome video ma, thank you for putting it out there, I ordered the parts a few weeks back and will be building one of these for myself and a buddy who chipped in for parts. that said I do have a question for you, I downloaded the file for your case and really liked the purple color filament you used in one of the pictures, so if you don't mind me asking what filament was that one? if you don't remember that is fine but figured it didn't hurt to ask
It's Overture Purple PLA Plus
@@kytor thank you so much for getting back to me, I'll look up the filament now. the color gave off n64 vibes which was perfect but it's hard to color match from videos lol. again, thanks for for both letting me know and for the video+print file, keep up the awesome work :)
Think the music is loud enough?
Absolutely awesome! What's the total cost of everything? (including buying one of your smexy 3d printed enclosures)
You can buy DIY kits here: bonzosretro.shop/products/sanni-cart-reader-v5 (Bonzo is going to offer my shell in the future)
Fully assembled here: www.ebay.com/itm/165949642296
@@kytor Thank you~!
@@kytor Wow... DIY kits already sold out. I guess that's to be expected for such a cool bit of kit. It would be nice if there were wishlists with all the items already added... but I guess I'll be doing it the hard way. :)
Damn great video bro
That R4 jumper should really be jumped with a 0 ohm resistor, for completeness :)
What are the smd pads under the SNES CIC for?
Hello! Can i replace the sd card by a USB for reader directly the rom on my pc?
Great video!
Where can I buy the complete kit with all the parts?
You can buy DIY kits here: bonzosretro.shop/products/sanni-cart-reader-v5
Fully assembled here: www.ebay.com/itm/165949642296
is there a part list other than getting them from ali express? don't really trust that website :). thanks!
You can buy DIY kits from Bonzo's retro shop: bonzosretro.shop/
Even with the CIC I am unable to dump a SA1 based game, I used a P16F630 programmed with supercic-lock_p16f630.hex, programmer used INTEL HEX file format, programmed with a top of the line T56 program device,,, any ideas??? Thank you for your video.
If you have six slot adapter rev 1, you will need to cut two traces and install bodge wires. See this resolved issue: github.com/sanni/cartreader/issues/481
Otherwise, you may want to reach out in the Discussions on github.
Hi, thank you for such a fast reply, yes I have the 6 slot rev 1 PCB, no wonder it is not working, I will do this fix tomorrow and I will let you know back here, thank you again sir.@@kytor
@@notsuoh16Bit Sure thing. Just be extra careful and take your time, if I recall correctly those screenshots are a top down view, i.e. everything will be mirrored when viewed from the bottom of the board where the cuts are made. Quadruple check before you cut!
@@kytor Hi mate, I followed the instructions, terrible as that picture is I was able to pull it off flawless victory ✌️, now it dumps everything perfectly, checksums and CRC32 all perfect every time, first time, just goes to show, it is never the EPROM or programmed IC and always a wiring issue, this has been proven to me now more times than I can remember, anyway thank you so much for you guidance, you saved me a lot of heart pain. Lol, thank you. ;-)
@@notsuoh16Bit Nice work!
The people in Europe again "take a look into the pipe". US Only is hard to get in Europe because of import taxes and extreme shipping costs.
You need to use flux for soldering
Oh you did my bad