Should you own one? - Freud Lock Miter Router Bit-
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- Опубліковано 15 бер 2018
- Watch this video if you are thinking of buying a Freud Miter Lock Bit for your router table. I just brought a one to build some table legs. Here is my experience working with it for the very first time. After seeing this, you can decide then if it is right for you.
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Nice video! Just a note that setup blocks for such bits are only useful when machining material of exactly the same thickness as the setup blocks. That's why I use the Infinity Tools Master Jig. About $30. But it lets you quickly adjust lock miter bits to any material thickness. You can nail the setup the first time every time. I agree this is a fantastic joint. I use it to make hardwood drawers, small cabinet cases, etc.
Thank you for sharing, and showing us different ways to get the job done. I’m also thankful for you sharing your difficulties with the new bit, and how you Over came then. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Outstanding warnings and corrections to them. I've been watching a number of Lock Miter bit set up videos I'll be using yours as a reference for sure. Thank you!
I just purchased a 45 deg lock miter bit, and ran into all the same problems you did. The bit was pricey, so now I just need to get good at using it, so it doesn't collect dust like some of my other hard-to-use bits.
Chad, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent video tutorial on the use of the lock miter router bit. Your instructions, including the steps of your learning curve, are invaluable. I look forward to using your techniques joining the back and sides of a clock cabinet. You are are a real craftsman and teacher.
FYI for anybody that is interested in this type of bit infinity tools has a set up tool for 30 bucks. Even if you do not want to buy it they have a video demo for the set up tool that will help you even without the tool. You basically have to match the half thickness of your stock with halfway height of your bit for the horizontal cut. For the vertical cut you need to move your fence so the half thickness of you stock is aligned with the top edge of the cutter. I bought a cheap Chinese version on amazon for 13 bucks just to see if I would be able to see if I could get it to work with out spending a bunch. I was able to set it up just from the videos on YT and infinity tools and got it so IIcould make both passes with out adjusting it between the vertical and horizontal cuts. Chad using those 1/4 spacers are a good Iidea for tear out I will have to try that.
It's nice of you to make the costly mistakes and let us see them Chad. That way we don't all have to make them too. Great video, thanks.
I just went today and bought a lock miter bit. One thing other people may find useful is there were two sizes. One for 3/4" thick material and one for thicker material. Make sure to buy the right size bit for the material you are using. Thanks for the useful video. I need to go set mine up and that will be really useful. :)
non-sponsored videos are rad dude. I like that even though you were showing this tool you showed another, low cost method for achieving the same results
Thank you. There is always more than one way to do something. I think everyone should have options.
Agree
A super honest video. I was detailed and I've faced the problems that you have described. I often wondered about the details of using this type of bit and you laid all of the out except the need to have the piece a precise thickness. You've helped me to decide whether to purchase a set of these router bits or not. Thanks.
With setup tool or blocks this is the best way to get a professional corner every time.
I got into woodworking this year and one of the things I love and hate about it is the fact that every single thing you do you need to save a template / setup piece for or every single step ends up taking an hour. It all adds up, especially if you have limited space and a ton of ideas without a regulator on your brain to tell you when you need to stop making stuff!
Yeah buddy a real vid!!! Thanks for your efforts !! I recently found out that there are set up blocks for this and other bits but I know you're frustration....my bit ( much smaller though ) sat in it's holder for the longest time..no instructions either.... but now it's all good.. thanks bro
Great video, Chad. I was always warned against those, but you have definitely shown the benefit. Thank you.
there are pros and cons to everything! Thanks for watching and the comment
Thanks Chad! I have one of these beasts!
I learned a lot from this video, not just about the bit but about the way to look at problems and solve them in the shop. Thanks!
Hey that's great! I'm happy to help anyone in this wonderful craft. Take care!
Great video Chad! This help a lot!
Good video for those of us that have not yet attempted cutting a lock joint. Thanks
I don't know how anyone could give this video a thumbs down. It's an excellent video and an honest review. Thanks for the content! I'm subscribed now!
Thank you for what brings you joy
I do like your explanations . Everything well wrapped in a story. Thank you for your efforts.
I've been wondering about getting one of these. Thanks for the info!
glad to help! Thanks for watching
Thank you UA-cam! Chad, I’ve been trying to find you again for a few years and couldn’t remember your name or Chanel. By chance here I am and won’t forget to subscribe this time!
Oh that’s so nice of you too say. Thank you for subscribing 😁
Great work and fabulous sharing of knowledge :)
Rockler and Infinity have matching set up blocks for these and many other bits. Save that setup time.
Thank you for sharing that information
I have wondered about that for a long time THANKS loads
s
Super valiosa información, muchas gracias por compartir Chad
got the same bit and had the identical problems you encountered with it... only difference is that instead of persevering until i got the problem solved as you did, i just gave up and never used it again. lol maybe it's time to revisit that ol' miter lock bit again and try your solution. thanks!!
There is a method using the centreline where you adjust the height of the bit. The bit should have a centreline marking somewhere. Once you get that elevation set up, you place the fence exactly the thickness of your material away from the point where the bit intersects the table. It's easy once you know where he centre of the bit is elevation-wise. Use that trick, and you won't have to spend over an hour each time you use a different thickness of material.
Every bit Ive ever seen has not had a center line mark, even the bit in this video doesn't have one.
@@bgm1911 The Microjig locking miter bit has a centreline mark.
Appreciate your review! Never even knew of this type of router bit. I may not buy it, but I always like learning and I did with this video!
I'm so glad you learned something. That is the number one reason why i post. Thank you for watching
I really like the use of the 1/4" spacer. We all know about using multiple passes until we get to the desired depth. But, this bit requires a perfect setup and it could be entirely too easy to miss the mark. The spacer allows for a large cut hogging out the most and then a final finishing pass that leaves a clean cut.
Good video Chad. Like how you highlighted the trouble spots.
thank you. I figured at that price people should know what they are getting into
Awesome video, Chad.
By the way I have the same bit and I love it I always try and make a set up block with everything makes it so much easier a lot of times like infinity and others sell set up blocks right with the tool so anytime you buy a bit of this nature they have set up blocks you can buy and they're not very expensive that's the amazing part and they work fine next time considered Infinity I have Freud bits everywhere I love them I think they're the best you take care of easy easy to keep Sharp just hauling them every once in awhile Freud I believe are the same company. Diablo saw blades I buy the I replace two very good blades for the price nice video good job lot of people need information videos like this I could have used it when I started with that bit thanks again, GOD bless
Taking the time to save me time and frustration...thank you
Great honest review. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment
I also just bought a 45 mitre lock bit and have come up with the same problems that you had. I don't have the patience that you have. It was a big bit and did take a chunk out of my wood. Good idea about the dimmer switch, I'll have to give that a try. I like the idea of the router bit, but it does take a lot of time to set up.
It's good to know i'm not the only one with issues. :-) Issues with the router that is. Hahahaha
Get an Incra jig, zero the fence on the full cut depth. Then set the jig to make 1/8th inch baby cuts till the fence hits the zero reference for full depth. The cost of that Freud bit, is well worth the extra investment for the brilliantly accurate Taylor Design Incra Jig. I use the same technique to make safer cuts using the stacked finger joint set! I live in the UK but used to travel to the US a lot, bought all my stuff in Imperial, (which I prefer to metric), at the fantastic Rockler store in Torrance, Orange County a few miles from our company HQ in Anaheim.
I have an Inca fed set up as well on my table saw and I have a lot of other things made by then their stuff is really first-class excellent I'm so happy I bought their fence setup I'm putting my router on there too can use the same fence what's nice about their system every cut as perfect every cut as they identical when you have it set up right it is so easy to use I love it I'm glad I bought Inca stuff
Very informative tutorial on the bit use and potential problems solutions. Great video.
thanks for watching
Finally, an awesome video. Serious and to the point. No BS. Thanks! Have had a set of these given to me and just haven't had a chance to use them. Awesome results. ... P.S.: Keep "Safety Dan" in the closet!
Thank you for the comment. I'm glad it can help. As far as Safety Dan...... i can't keep him from doing anything. He does what he wants. Hahahahah thanks for watching
i got two things from this video which is a bonus. the dimmer switch is a great idea and i will look at how i can use one with my old router. i have a big old makita that won't die but with a big bit like that in it i suffer from knee trembling when using it. the second is why don't they supply set up blocks with these bits. though now i have retired my tools are taking it very easy now lol
I'm glad you were able to walk away with some info for you. Hope your back in the shop and working those tools soon. :-) thanks for watching
Thanks for the honest opinion. Looks like that bit is more for big production runs rather than a single piece.
Good point. It probably pays for itself on production work. I however only build one offs. Thanks for watching.
Epic, Thanks !
Very nice...congratulation!
The set up you have for the vertical should be the same as for horizontal, didn't need adjustments.
That dimmer switch idea is great. So simple. Thanks
I might add, I should have used a thicker electrical cord on the dimmer switch. Just in case you make one yourself. Thanks for watching.
@@ChadStanton I was wondering how hot it was getting and what horsepower/amps you were pulling on your router? Thanks for you video_ I really enjoy them and your style!
Here’s the video I’ve been looking for, is here a simpler way we can do the with other router bits?
Nice video. You showed me what I had been wondering about with these types of bits. I will be grabbing a lower cost bit to give it a try. I know I might be paying more in the end if I find I am using this type of bit more. Thanks for sharing the video, information, and experiences...subscribed:)
I don't have that brand but I have that type bit, they rock. I am surprised that you had so much trouble
Love the honest opinion.
Thank you. I don't want to tell anyone what to do. I just wanted to tell my experience. Thanks for watching
Thank you!💜
Hey Chad, I liked this video. It was "straight up " Chad. Great explanation of "how to ".
Thank you. I was worried it was too long but felt everything was necessary.
Thanks for this tip! I purchased this same bit off of Craigslist and haven't used it yet. I'll employ your tip(s) when I decide to use the bit. Thanks!
Thank you. Don't be in a rush. Make sure you have plenty of time. The first set up takes a while. Thanks and hope you subscribe to our show.
I have one then. I love it. Works great I use it to make m&m games. I got the plastic block too made it easy to set up
Thank you for the comment Mr.G Hope you have a wonderful day
Great video chad ! I am constantly adjusting and resetting my power tools and it sucks , so unless I’m rough milling lumber I just use my hand tools . I got tons of nice and lots of crappy power tools in the garage but I still always end up using my hand tools . And as Paul sellers says I’m done using just my #4 plane and some chisels while you are still adjusting and trying to find your router bits
I totally agree!!!! I prefer hand tools. I work on jobsites and some guys will laugh when i use a hand saw. While they are looking for an outlet I'm done! That is until they find the outlet. Then they dominate me. :-( Thanks for the comment.
Thank you. I learned something.
My pleasure. Thank for watching.
I almost closed this thinking this was some 80s infomercial (the light, the hairdo). The info you provide is awesome. Thanks for the video :)
I KNOW but I love this GUY !! hahahah so true 80's
Please! Don't apologize. It's very precious information. I never realized that this bit was so big.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I have to admit, the first time that router started spinning i was a little nervous.
Chad Stanton 😯
Excellent
Yo, Adrienne! You're killin' me heah!
it’s a good video man thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻😍😍
I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. I truly mean it.
Interesting video. Big bits like that scare the crap out of me. I have a smaller locking joint bit that is a royal pain to set-up, so I rarely use it. The idea of saving test pieces as set-up blocks will help. Also, I like your use of the dimmer switch. Gotta try that on my old big router.
I hear ya. When that things starts spinning i get scared like a little girl. Hahahaha
When choosing bit size, is it safe to use (oversized) 1" bit for 3/4" material?
Or, should bit's max=material?
I have a similar one, but smaller so more useful on thinner boards.
I never hog out the entire cut no matter what bit I'm using. Always better to remove material in passes or make a cut that goes ahead and removes most of the material. In this instance, couldn't you go ahead and make a 45 cut on the table saw close to your line so you wouldn't have as much material to remove with the router bit? I do this a lot when using a chamfer bit. Safer and easier on your tools and lots less wear on your router bits.
I think this method is best when usen on pre-finished particleboard as sharp routed corners without gaps will create a uniform look, as if was one piece
In lieu of messing around with the 1/4 inch mdf, just run a skim cut on your table saw at 45 to hog of the majority of the stock. Cut to leave about a 1/4" land on the edge; cut a 1/2x1/2x1/2 triangle out of 3/4 stock. You can run all of your boards this way first and also not put wear and tear on the expensive bit.
I bought a whitesides lock miter bit and setup block for it from rockler but that setup block was for there house brand bit.
You should think about buying a speed control router, for one reason. Adding a dimmer to slow down the bit drops your routers output horse power, it's also harder on the motor, it was not designed to run al lower speeds, therefore the cooling from the fan inside the motor wont remove to heat build up, causing it to fail sooner then it would have
The speed driven routes use a dc motor not ac. They are made to deal with the heat and they do not loose power on slower speeds.
I like the idea and have seen other simular bits used. If it works I'm all in. As for your problem with 45 degree cuts and then trying to put them together; I saw someone in another video use salt on the glue to keep his pieces from sliding around. Never tried it myself but it seemed to work.
Yes, i have used that method. (in fact i too did a video on that) It does work. Thanks for watching!
I'll second what Aeneas said about getting an Incra fence system. Perfect repeatable accuracy.
I have but Inca set up I highly recommend it you will not be disappointed with a Inca set up and things they make that cost a little bit more but well where is it ! I waited awhile to get the money together to get mine but I'm glad I waited once you have a Inca real system you never go back believe me ,.. you figured what you pay for all these big brand name real systems is not that expensive,, why Inca highly recommended by me and many others.. it's one of the best investments in your shop you can make also it is the best investment you can make for your table saw ever consider that
Just subscribed yesterday and really appreciate the reviews and the videos. I would like to see the completed table.
Yes, i am filming the build of the table. But not sure when it will be ready to post. But thanks for subscribing! I truly appreciate it!
Thanks for sharing..
You're welcome. I figured people could learn from my mistakes
If you close up each side of you fence on the bit and make it a zero clearance fence then use your feather boards you will have an easier time of it.
Ron
A machinist height inspection gauge makes setup way easier. Finding centerlines on material you are using and the critical centerline on the tool bit as well as fence depth.
great video any suggestions on rail and stile bits
Yes, just like this video, make a set up block for future use. And cut the rail or end grain first with a sacrificial board behind it. Then cut the stile or edge grain one first. Does that help. I have an old video that can explain it more.
Should of quickly ran a 45 just shy of the line through the table saw as your first pass. Works great that way.
Hello two years ago, thank you for this very useful comment!
There are other videos showing why this won't work. A quick look at the bit profile will tell you that a 45 won't work.
Thanks Choperoo you just saved me an hour of messing about.
happy to do it. Thanks for watching
As soon as I seem the video I thought “of course I should own one” lol unlike Chad I’m always wanting new tools! However, I don’t have anywhere near all I need to tackle every wood working job that comes my way, so I’m getting them a few at a time as I need them or if I find them cheap enough
great video as always, its a shame that yiu don't get a plastic profile with the bit, which would allow you. to set up accuratley first time
You don't have to readjust the bit between the vertical and the horizontal cuts. There are UA-cam videos showing how to dial in a single position.
Nice video. You attached a dimmer to your router? Very clever. Keep up the good work.
Why did you have to run the board vertically ? Cannot all boards be run horizontally for the cut ?
If you set the height of the bit so that the bottom of the groove cutter part of the bit is at the height of the centerline of the thickness of your material, then you don't have to change anything going from horizontal to vertical or vise-versa. As long as you get the bit perfectly aligned to the centerline, the two pieces will line up properly when you fit them together. There are a number of videos on UA-cam that show the best ways of setting these up.
Thank you so much for sharing that with us. Much appreciated!
For that bit, what speed would you recommend? I know you don't have a read out to tell you because of your rheostat, but maybe you could run your router so we can hear it. Sound tells a lot about what speed you are running. My old 1986 Ryobi is too fast I'm sure. 2 1/4HP
$108 is a tad much for so much hassle. but for $68 (Amazon), I think i’ll give it a try.
I just ordered a bit off the Wish app. It ended up around $30 Canadian. Probxbly a low wuality bit but good enough for me to try it out znd see if a more pricy freud bit is worth it. Loved the honest opinion though znd the set up suggestions xnd info.
I'm a weekend warrior, not a pro, but I do have a comment on the dimmer. Don't. There are Rheostats specifically designed for AC Motors, and there are Dimmers designed for static lighting. They are not the same, and you're asking for trouble in the form of starting a fire with a dimmer.
How about putting a slight 45degree bevel on your stock first so you take away some material first!
bought the same bit on aliexpres for about10 bucks , works fine for me think once you have the height difference ou can lay a sheet the same height on the one that needs to be lower and leave the routerbit in place , that would mean the innitial height shouldnt matter as you compensate with the sheet under the material on th seccond piece
another manufacture for this type of bit suggested taping a scrap piece to the edge of the board to help eliminate tear out but they also would adjust the fence back three times (sort of like what you are doing with the spacer.) I feel that as long as you know what the end cut depth is supposed to be and stopping there you could start with two 1/4" mdf then do a second pass with one and third pass with without any spacers reaching final depth. I just bought a cheap bit and haven't messed with it, now I am a little worried. I can't afford tear out on the piece I am working on but also need a strong miter joint. I have plenty of scrap red oak flooring I can size up to practice with though but the final piece is going to have to be 8- 12.5" passes.
Hello there, to get a nice result without splintering it is anewed not to mill the wood at a point but still leave a +/- 0.5 mm flat on both parts. Milling at one point makes the wood weak and already during processing will damage the wood, by pushing it against the guide. After the sanding of this 0.5 mm nothing is noticeable.
To obtain an easy height setting to the following. Once you have found a setting for a specific wood thickness, you can adjust the tool by half the additional wood thickness with thicker wood. Both in height and horizontally (fence) and the reverse in the case of thinner wood. With a router, this is somewhat more difficult than with a table cutter (working with spacers).
Regards.
@@dirkvercauteren1876 my router table was gifted to me by a coworker it's just a small craftsman from about 20 years ago so I decided I would just do some miter biscuits on this project and play around with a bit like this later on as I have too many projects to work on at the moment and not enough money to do too experiments. Thanks for the advice though! I will look back on it when I tackle something with the router table. Odds are I will be using it for supports for the legs.
Thanks for sharing your pain Chad. I'd get Safety Dan to inspect that dimmer switch though. :D Cheers, Chris.
I agree. Not really the best, but it does work. :-) Thanks for watching
Other folks back up their miter fence with a stop like you use a spacer board to do a first cut.
Infinity Tools have set-up blocks, or a laser cut metal guide for their locking miter bits.
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Hi Paul- with IT set-up blocks, did you find it necessary to make incremental passes?
Chad , loved the video. I realize it's too late for you, but there are set up jigs from Infinity Cutting Tools as well as from Rockler and MCLS that should make the set up easier
Good to know, Russell. You might just save a viewer the grief i went through. :-)
You can buy a setup block on amazon for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 bit.
I'd like to know if there is some kind of lock miter joint that can be accomplished with hand tools to do exactly what you're doing.
I'd like to try a mission chair and a Frank L. Wright table using legs like those you've produced. How did the craftsmen produce such in the 1890s?
All router bit profiles can be replicated with a straight planer blade cut to the same profile and installed in a rabbet plane-like body. There is this guy Klaus something on UA-cam who made a new profile and put it in a hand plane and showed how workmen in the old days would make chair and crown molding using these hand planes. Its pretty cool how in the age of keyboards and color laser printers we forget the ingenuity of the early 19th century where they had manual typewriters and multi colored typewriter ribbons to achieve similar results !
Rock on Mr Stanton
You always watch and comment. Thank you SO much
You are welcome. Always my pleasure. Thank you for such great content.
I bought a cheap one of these bits cause I saw videos of guys having an awful time setting them up and I didn't wanna pay big bucks for something I wasn't gonna use. I spent hours making test cuts in MDF cause I didn't wanna waste my good stock. Finally got the damned thing set up but by then the bit was so dull it wouldn't cut properly. One of the things Chad didn't mention, is that your stock has to be perfectly flat and even thickness which is the reason I used mdf for testing. There now videos out that show setup by marking center of your stock and where that has to be in reference to the height of the bit and exposure from the fence. There is an aussie guy that's got a great video, but I can't seem to find it to link it. Oh, and then I went and bought a GOOD quality bit...........
"I bought a cheap one .... but by then the bit was so dull it wouldn't cut". Yep. That's what comes with buying "a cheap one"
I know this is a bit of an old thread, but you could have avoided all the hassle. You could have quickly, easily, and precisely setup the lock miter bit (virtually any brand) for any thickness of wood, even pieces of different thickness by spending a few extra dollars for a Lock Miter Master setup jig. It was invented by the guy behind the INCRA I-BOX.
If set up correctly, you use the same setup for both vertical and horizontal passes. All you need to do is search UA-cam to find out how.
You could run it through the table saw at a 45°... not so much as a miter more as a chamfer with about an 1/8” of material showing on the edge. Would definitely cut down setup time.