How lock miters can make projects cheaper and better.
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2022
- ▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼
Tools used in this video:
-Harvey roller guides: www.harveywoodworking.com/col...
-Whiteside lock-miter bits: amzn.to/3b620VZ
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/3S284iY
-Digital height gauge: amzn.to/3JacNuN
-Video about setting up a lock miter bit: • Why not just set up yo...
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!
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-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x
-Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M
-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
-ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission) - Навчання та стиль
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼
*Tools used in this video:*
-Harvey roller guides: www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/table-saw-accessories
-Whiteside lock-miter bits: amzn.to/3b620VZ
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/3S284iY
-Digital height gauge: amzn.to/3JacNuN
-Video about setting up a lock miter bit: ua-cam.com/video/L_rJhz9C3wk/v-deo.html
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x
-Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M
-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
-ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Why not to make a vertical pass first? This leaves more contact surface with the fence and you don't need a custom push block. Then do the horizontal pass, where it is much easier to hold the board with only a narrow strip as a contact surface. Just thinking out loud.
@@ScramblerUSA I don't think it's easier to keep it stable on the table. You'd need a stacked featherboard mounted to the fence.
A crafty tip for speakers or lighting projects as the cables can hide up the middle channel.
"do not do this with your fingers alone" Absolutely awesome advice. I've worked in surgery 49 years now, and have seen countless hands torn apart simply because they thought they wouldn't be the next amputee. Be safe
I almost lost a fingertip, to one of these very same bits.
5:00
Never stop letting spinning metal scare the hell out of you.
I never really noticed the difference in woodgrain at 90 degrees. This technique reveals the best grain pattern on all 4 sides. I love the way you burnished the corners to fill in the gaps instead of filling them in with wood glue. 👏👍
This is a great way to create beautiful wood projects that are also somewhat lighter. And it's pretty easy, nothing that takes large amounts of finesse. Thanks!
I low key think your actually reading our comments and creating content we desire. Thanks you kind sir!
Thank you for the tip! A brand new way of doing legs from 3/4 panel
Those roller guides look great. I machine smaller parts by attaching them to a larger piece of wood with double sided tape.
This is exactly how I make my bed posts. Customers often want 5"×5" and up and this makes them way cheaper and lighter as well as easier. The last headboard I made was over 400lbs, I can't even imagine how heavy it would have been with solid posts
Also, I prefer to make 2 sets of pieces with the same cut on each side, 2 with horizontal cuts and 2 with vertical cuts opposite each other. Makes fitting them together much easier on large pieces
Also, some advice, if you're having trouble doing this in one pass, add an auxiliary fence to push the workpiece back a bit so you can take smaller passes
Do you ever put chamfers on those bed posts? Would the seam still look fine? I want to do this for the bed I am making, but want a chamfer on the posts.
@@sailblue10 should be okay, as long as it's not super deep.
How do you keep them from sounding hollow? Serious question, this might be a concern I have where building 4x4 / 5x5 posts this way might simplify things.
@@danielnewby2255 with them being that small, it shouldn't sound hollow. If you did want to make it not sound hollow, you could fill the cavity with a proper sized plug. I had that idea while watching this video. I'd probably just cap the top and bottom with a plug if I was gonna make it this way.
@@sailblue10 yes I put roughly 1/16-3/32 chamfers on them. There is enough "miter" there that as long as your bits are clean and sharp there won't be a noticeable seam. Proper glue spreading plays a factor as well
I have made thousands of posts using this brilliant joinery method.... used to work at a manufacturing shop....
Built a set of quartersawn Oak Morris Chairs with this technique - works a charm and looked fantastic. Besides looks and weight, you are also making a far more dimensionally stable leg that will resist warping. Your setup also inhaled the large amount of dust/chips generated by the large bits very well. While I have used feather boards, I really like the rollers. For those who have never used additional support - the "My fingers are enough" crowd - the quality and consistency of your cuts will improve dramatically with support. Thanks James
Thanks so much for this. I hate getting a nice grain pattern on one side and cathedrals on the other, and I have a lock miter bit but have struggled with both the set up and the application. Here you've shown me how to set it up, and how to get my money's worth out of it getting nice grain on all four sides of a post.
James you are the undisputed king of videos providing tested, safe instruction with woodworking power tools.
OUTSTANDING and SIMPLE method to setup a Lock Miter Bit. Thanks so much for sharing.
This is a fantastic tip! Ordering a lock miter bit tomorrow morning.
Ahhh, my ET brother --- I've tried set up blocks and all kind of different methodes to set these &(*()'s up, just tried this method and the SOB's worked like a champ --- Only took 10 years! Thank you. Thank you, Thank you!!! --- P.S.: L.G.Stickley did the 4 square legs early last century!
Once again, I continue to be amazed at your depth of knowledge. Just when I think that you have covered every angle in woodworking you come up with another amazing video.
Good going!
Always learning when I watch…excellent!
I think I'm gonna try this trick to turn some round legs on the lathe. I bet the grain patterns would be awesome
Killer Video! I’m bursting with ideas! I’m sure that Harvey Adjustable Roller isn’t cheap, but I think that I need one. I’m already set on the lock-miter bit. Keep up the great work!
Excellent video, James!! One of the most useful I've seen. Can't wait to try it out.
Thanks. Your work is much appreciated!
Never knew this existed, and I'm buying that bit now! This technique really tickles my fancy.
Thank you for all these tips! That is a huge help!
That's just brilliant, James! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!
As always your information is priceless! I will be definitely giving this a go. Thanks!
i don't know which i like most about your channel; you're clear and concise instruction or you name. Go James Madison: Stumpy Nubs Forever!
Thank you Stumpy that’s great advice! I have learned at least two things from every video you produce. Your a wealth of information! 👍
Wow!! This stuff is amazing! You wood worker pros are fun watch. I am always amazed at things you guys can do.
Genius-level. Marvellous craftsmanship, quite therapeutic to watch!
Thank you, Mr. Nubs!
Cool tip!
Thanks for sharing James. That was a great lesson today making the post/ legs. Really some great information. Fred.
Thanks for the great video James 👍
very nice idea, I make legs by cutting boards into small strips and gluing them together but this looks way better. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to see you using that narrow paint scraper. I use one in my shop all the time for glue removal and it is very handy for scraping wood imperfections and leveling off small offset in joints. Just be sure to keep it sharp.
Once again… the Stumpster steps in and helps us find a way to use less material to create more build options for our projects, while avoiding massive $$$ costs.
😃👍
I hope to see a video demonstrating those roller guides and your opinion on getting a set verses using just a feather board. That thing looks awesome!
Watching him use it sold me.
He's got a video on them. I _think_ it's in one of his "Cool Tools" video series.
WOW! That's a great idea! Thanks for the great video, as always! 😎
Great video! I had no idea about this kind of joinery and will try it when I get back into the shop!
I have a lock miter bit which I picked up at a yard sale 2 yrs ago. Its big - ive been toooo scared of it to try it. And that Harvey table saw kit looks really nice.
Ain't that slick! Love that roller guide.
Thanks again James. Great tutorial!
Great video James. I never thought of this!
Thanks James, as timber prices head higher, these sorts of techniques are going to become commonplace. In Australia, so much of the accessible "good wood" is gone in so many places. You see a lot of benchtops edged this way and joined table legs are very common. (A lot of our hardwood is pretty hard work, too...)
Love that roller-guide. Not seen one of those before.
Used tis type of bit in attempt to find a locking miter for boxes. Mine was a failure for my purposes. did this awhile back shoulda waited for you. LOL!
I needed this video two weeks ago! I'm making an oak bathroom vanity. Oh well. Next time.
Love the roller guides! Wish I could find some in Europe!
Oh. This is going to be HANDY for a future project that I have planned. 8)
I'm just gonna have to figure out how to add in some internal structural support in some key areas, but I think that can be handled by simply glue-trapping inserts in those particular areas.
Excellent video. Thank you!!
Awesome tip. Expensive bit, but worth it if you want to make furniture that looks awesome.
Good to see that the fingers have seemingly healed (on video anyway)... I have no doubt that you are still dealing with some of the aftermath.... be well and THANK YOU! for the great content... it is a tremendous help.
Always learn something from you. I could never get those cuts right. We will try it again
Well, once again a great video! Thank you for that info, really great tip!
I've seen those locking miters before but never really knew why I might want one. Now I know....But the thing in this video that really got me is that roller guide! OMG! I need one (or two or three). I use feather boards whenever possible both on my router table and table saw but they are always "sticky", especially if the stock is not completely smooth. Alas, though, the roller guides are out of my price range. I may have to rig up a DIY version of them. Love your channel!
Love these vids. However, I was just at my local hardwood store and the costs have gone up so much that I can’t afford big projects anymore. Soft “natural maple” (pretty much big leaf maple, colored, lots of browns and greens) went from 2.60 a bf last year to 5.99 today. Oak, white oak, a local product, 8/bf and that was for 4/4, NOT quarter sawn.
Nuts. So now I need to start milling my own damn lumber to afford this hobby. Jesus Christ .
Amazing that this video has been released just now:
I set up my new Incra LS positioned on my router table last night and did my first Mitre Lock joints to achieve exactly this!
James, your timing is impeccable 😅
Thank you, so useful!
i could see legs made this way being more stable and resistant to twisting/warp having the grain going in different directions, as a additional benefit
Hola! 🖐This is super cool, I never knew that bit even existed. I have seen this method before, "building" your own legs but you are right, using this tool and this method makes a lot of sense. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊👊
Great tip, especially for exotic woods that my dealer only usually stocks in 3/4"
Thanks James your techniques are invaluable. I recently bought a Sommerfeld router table and plan to use the lock miter set. Your descriptions involving fingerboard guides probably saved me some miscuts.
I think you meant to say "rift cuts" instead of quartersawn faces, as quartersawn oak is Full of rays, where rift cut has the short flecks.
Keep up the good work, your channel is tops.
Love this. thanks!
Great video!! And I expect we will see that roller guide in an upcoming cool tools. ;)
I think the flat sawn looks much more attractive and alive.
Great content!
Love your work 👍
Thanks for sharing, great idea. 👍
I appreciate this video. As a hobbyist, I need to be frugal with my money and space (small shop). These bits look like a good investment given how many of my projects have legs or multiple faces.
I don’t know if he used the locking bevel, but Stickley relied on miters to create the “ideal” quarter sawn timber. Shipwrights also do this on masts, booms, and spars to avoid becoming top heavy.
Many craftsman furniture makers in the early days would put quartersawn veneers over the flat-sawn sides of the legs, as well.
@@StumpyNubs Bah! Posers.
Stickley used a lot of veneers, for quartersawn legs, tabletops and so on. Had the good fortune to do a faux-Stickley kitchen recently for a family of collectors and got a close look at a lot of their work.
Such a cool video
Top notch content.
That's Brilliant!
That could come in very handy!!
Awesome tip. Thanks a load.
Great video. I used the lock bit when assembling some hardwood fence posts which slipped over pt posts. Was able to make beautiful hardwood (solid looking) posts without spending a premium on solid hardwood 4x4s. Also to your point, you can choose the more pleasing grain patterns. In the end there’s less of an issue with bowing over time one might get with solid wood. The lock bit miter joint is so much superior to a simple 45 deg miter, I would almost always choose this especially i. The uses you’ve outlined here. Less expense in stock and really, if done well, a superior end result.
This guy is the best ❤
Homerun Stumpy.. thank you man!! Go team go!! Woohoo🙌🤘🙌😊
the lock miter bit might be really good for building picture frames. I don't have the money for an underpinning machine (nor the space) and cross nailing is only so affective. this could be just the thing I need
This was a good video.
Haha wish I had known about these last year before I wood paneled a whole school with mitered corners around all the columns. It seems to me that you could cut a strip of the profiled miter to receive the piece on the vertical. The profile would lend support at the bottom where it’s needed.
If you mill both edges of two sides flat on the table, then mill both edges of the mating parts up against the fence, the tongues all align so you only need to clamp in one direction instead of needing clamps across both faces.
Ngl, I prefer the flat sawn grain myself, but the point still holds. Will get one of these cutters as soon as I can.
James
You have great videos. I have learned a lot from you. Your breadth of knowledge and ability to present is amazing. Your method of getting the height of the bit above the table is Ingenious. I do think you may have missed something on this one. It looks like you are measuring the total height of the bit and you really need to measure the height of the angled portion of the bit. Including the short vertical section will introduce error to your measurement. There is no good place on the bit to measure the height without including the vertical section. I have the small Whiteside bit and have used the following equation to get the height of the angled portion after doing a trial and error fit. Hb = 2(H)-Ts. To use the equation, I measured the bits height above the table top (H) and the thickness(Ts) of the material used to get the fit. Hb is the height of the angled portion of the bit. With this height, you can use your method for any thickness of material the bit can handle. It works great. Also, I happen to have access to scrap 3/8" thick HDPE which I use as the straight edge for adjusting the fence. It works great because if it touches the bit you can feel the bit grab it without moving the bit.
Top notch
I have to get that router bit. Tyvm.
Good tips. I use this bit to make kitchen drawer boxes with Baltic Birch Ply. My tip here is your router table had better be double plywood or metal, not single thick phenolic and your in and out feed fence be of top quality in alignment. Anything else becomes a super strugle with this huge bit.
Great video,thanks for all you do for us! How do you like that RG-1? I’d love to see a video on it, I’ve searched YT and found nothing
You may have changed my mind on that bit with this video.
I never thought of the flat sawn side as being any less beautiful than the quarter sawn side….just different. I guess I can see that now though, at least in terms of uniformity
Flat sawn has beauty, but mixing distinctly different grain patterns is not always desirable.
In my case I seem to have permanently associated cathedral grain with crap woods like pine and fir. Part of that is just from using alot of 2x6s as cheap stock. Uniformity of grain just feels better on the eye to me.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Man I can’t wait to use that bit. I’ve got an ambrosia maple desk in the near future that’s going to be way easier now.
Bit of advice, bit size, router power and bit quality are all very important. I have a rockler large locking miter and 3.25hp router and had to add auxiliary fences in order to take smaller passes in 1.045" thick red oak
@@pattyofurniture100 noted. Thx
I’m curious, would these types of joints work with tapered boards for legs
It does require a great table saw, router table fences etc. But it’s awesome!
You can do this with an old, well tuned table saw and a router clamped to a piece of plywood for a table with a straight 2X4 fence. Nobody suggested otherwise.
Jim, if you set up your lock miters with the same cut on both sides of two sides and the matching cut on the other two, you only need to clamp in one direction.
You still need to clamp in all directions. The "lock" isn't that tight.
@@StumpyNubs I guess I've been doing it wrong all these years?
@@jimurrata6785 LOL- I have never in my life assembled a lock miter joint that did not need clamps. You say you have been doing it your whole life. Neither of us is wrong. That's the thing about life, two opposite things can actually be entirely true. Have a nice day.
When you burnished the grains together, we always called that "giving it a little Arkansas". No earthly idea why.
Cool.
I love my Harvey! Looks good in your shop and how about the Compass miter gauge!
I love the mitre lock joint, with hickory I guess you must take some off with exchanger bit?
Hate to be an anonymous fanboy, but I am really happy with my Harvey c14 bandsaw.
Probably not news to Stumpy and other creators, but youtube clobbered a crap ton of my subs overnight. This was the first one restored. :)
Great video! I was wondering though, does the alternating grain prohibit profiling in any way?