▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ *Tools used in this video:* -Harvey roller guides: www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/table-saw-accessories -Whiteside lock-miter bits: amzn.to/3b620VZ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/3S284iY -Digital height gauge: amzn.to/3JacNuN -Video about setting up a lock miter bit: ua-cam.com/video/L_rJhz9C3wk/v-deo.html ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
Why not to make a vertical pass first? This leaves more contact surface with the fence and you don't need a custom push block. Then do the horizontal pass, where it is much easier to hold the board with only a narrow strip as a contact surface. Just thinking out loud.
"do not do this with your fingers alone" Absolutely awesome advice. I've worked in surgery 49 years now, and have seen countless hands torn apart simply because they thought they wouldn't be the next amputee. Be safe
This is a great way to create beautiful wood projects that are also somewhat lighter. And it's pretty easy, nothing that takes large amounts of finesse. Thanks!
I never really noticed the difference in woodgrain at 90 degrees. This technique reveals the best grain pattern on all 4 sides. I love the way you burnished the corners to fill in the gaps instead of filling them in with wood glue. 👏👍
This is exactly how I make my bed posts. Customers often want 5"×5" and up and this makes them way cheaper and lighter as well as easier. The last headboard I made was over 400lbs, I can't even imagine how heavy it would have been with solid posts Also, I prefer to make 2 sets of pieces with the same cut on each side, 2 with horizontal cuts and 2 with vertical cuts opposite each other. Makes fitting them together much easier on large pieces Also, some advice, if you're having trouble doing this in one pass, add an auxiliary fence to push the workpiece back a bit so you can take smaller passes
Do you ever put chamfers on those bed posts? Would the seam still look fine? I want to do this for the bed I am making, but want a chamfer on the posts.
How do you keep them from sounding hollow? Serious question, this might be a concern I have where building 4x4 / 5x5 posts this way might simplify things.
@@danielnewby2255 with them being that small, it shouldn't sound hollow. If you did want to make it not sound hollow, you could fill the cavity with a proper sized plug. I had that idea while watching this video. I'd probably just cap the top and bottom with a plug if I was gonna make it this way.
@@sailblue10 yes I put roughly 1/16-3/32 chamfers on them. There is enough "miter" there that as long as your bits are clean and sharp there won't be a noticeable seam. Proper glue spreading plays a factor as well
Thanks so much for this. I hate getting a nice grain pattern on one side and cathedrals on the other, and I have a lock miter bit but have struggled with both the set up and the application. Here you've shown me how to set it up, and how to get my money's worth out of it getting nice grain on all four sides of a post. James you are the undisputed king of videos providing tested, safe instruction with woodworking power tools.
Built a set of quartersawn Oak Morris Chairs with this technique - works a charm and looked fantastic. Besides looks and weight, you are also making a far more dimensionally stable leg that will resist warping. Your setup also inhaled the large amount of dust/chips generated by the large bits very well. While I have used feather boards, I really like the rollers. For those who have never used additional support - the "My fingers are enough" crowd - the quality and consistency of your cuts will improve dramatically with support. Thanks James
Once again, I continue to be amazed at your depth of knowledge. Just when I think that you have covered every angle in woodworking you come up with another amazing video. Good going!
I have a lock miter bit which I picked up at a yard sale 2 yrs ago. Its big - ive been toooo scared of it to try it. And that Harvey table saw kit looks really nice.
Killer Video! I’m bursting with ideas! I’m sure that Harvey Adjustable Roller isn’t cheap, but I think that I need one. I’m already set on the lock-miter bit. Keep up the great work!
Thanks James your techniques are invaluable. I recently bought a Sommerfeld router table and plan to use the lock miter set. Your descriptions involving fingerboard guides probably saved me some miscuts. I think you meant to say "rift cuts" instead of quartersawn faces, as quartersawn oak is Full of rays, where rift cut has the short flecks. Keep up the good work, your channel is tops.
Ahhh, my ET brother --- I've tried set up blocks and all kind of different methodes to set these &(*()'s up, just tried this method and the SOB's worked like a champ --- Only took 10 years! Thank you. Thank you, Thank you!!! --- P.S.: L.G.Stickley did the 4 square legs early last century!
I appreciate this video. As a hobbyist, I need to be frugal with my money and space (small shop). These bits look like a good investment given how many of my projects have legs or multiple faces.
Amazing that this video has been released just now: I set up my new Incra LS positioned on my router table last night and did my first Mitre Lock joints to achieve exactly this! James, your timing is impeccable 😅
I've seen those locking miters before but never really knew why I might want one. Now I know....But the thing in this video that really got me is that roller guide! OMG! I need one (or two or three). I use feather boards whenever possible both on my router table and table saw but they are always "sticky", especially if the stock is not completely smooth. Alas, though, the roller guides are out of my price range. I may have to rig up a DIY version of them. Love your channel!
Great video. I used the lock bit when assembling some hardwood fence posts which slipped over pt posts. Was able to make beautiful hardwood (solid looking) posts without spending a premium on solid hardwood 4x4s. Also to your point, you can choose the more pleasing grain patterns. In the end there’s less of an issue with bowing over time one might get with solid wood. The lock bit miter joint is so much superior to a simple 45 deg miter, I would almost always choose this especially i. The uses you’ve outlined here. Less expense in stock and really, if done well, a superior end result.
Yeah I got 3 different bits or sizes should I say and that half inch bit when that thing is running it's kind of scary so all being said let me ask you this what is your router speed ?
Used tis type of bit in attempt to find a locking miter for boxes. Mine was a failure for my purposes. did this awhile back shoulda waited for you. LOL!
Good to see that the fingers have seemingly healed (on video anyway)... I have no doubt that you are still dealing with some of the aftermath.... be well and THANK YOU! for the great content... it is a tremendous help.
James You have great videos. I have learned a lot from you. Your breadth of knowledge and ability to present is amazing. Your method of getting the height of the bit above the table is Ingenious. I do think you may have missed something on this one. It looks like you are measuring the total height of the bit and you really need to measure the height of the angled portion of the bit. Including the short vertical section will introduce error to your measurement. There is no good place on the bit to measure the height without including the vertical section. I have the small Whiteside bit and have used the following equation to get the height of the angled portion after doing a trial and error fit. Hb = 2(H)-Ts. To use the equation, I measured the bits height above the table top (H) and the thickness(Ts) of the material used to get the fit. Hb is the height of the angled portion of the bit. With this height, you can use your method for any thickness of material the bit can handle. It works great. Also, I happen to have access to scrap 3/8" thick HDPE which I use as the straight edge for adjusting the fence. It works great because if it touches the bit you can feel the bit grab it without moving the bit.
Does this work well with 3/4" plywood? I don't have one of these bits. But this would make a great technique for shop furniture/stands/tables/etc if it works with plywood.
First THANK YOU for your sharing of knowledge, Greatly appreciated. Your thoughts on using this technique on very long pieces 12 to 15 feet? for Faux wood beams. Rather than using the miter,tape and fold method. My thoughts were this could be done off site and assembled at the job.
Once again… the Stumpster steps in and helps us find a way to use less material to create more build options for our projects, while avoiding massive $$$ costs. 😃👍
Thanks James, as timber prices head higher, these sorts of techniques are going to become commonplace. In Australia, so much of the accessible "good wood" is gone in so many places. You see a lot of benchtops edged this way and joined table legs are very common. (A lot of our hardwood is pretty hard work, too...)
Oh. This is going to be HANDY for a future project that I have planned. 8) I'm just gonna have to figure out how to add in some internal structural support in some key areas, but I think that can be handled by simply glue-trapping inserts in those particular areas.
Glad to see you using that narrow paint scraper. I use one in my shop all the time for glue removal and it is very handy for scraping wood imperfections and leveling off small offset in joints. Just be sure to keep it sharp.
Thanks for this, I have got to try it. Question....would it work if you tapered the pieces, making a tapered leg? I made a table with tapered legs. Glued two pieces together face to face with quarter sawn white oak with medullary rays showing on two sides. I then tapered the legs on two sides and then glued on QSWO shop made veneer from the same tree to cover the sides with the glue line. Tiny chamfer on the corners hides the veneer joint. Quarter sawn faces all around.
If you mill both edges of two sides flat on the table, then mill both edges of the mating parts up against the fence, the tongues all align so you only need to clamp in one direction instead of needing clamps across both faces.
The compass mg 36 mitre gage. Is this one of the mitre gages you did on your utube channel to show some faults and how did you find the Gauge. I've been looking for a specific tool, please help.
Would there be any benefit to "packing" or "filling" the empty space in the center with scrap wood if you intended to have a mortise and tenon joint? I'm thinking of a bed frame or something else where you would want to have a chunkier leg which could have a larger empty space but also wanted a strong and supported joint.
Thanks James. Loved this video. Was just wondering though, that when you passed each of the pieces through the router for the first time, you were to do them in the vertical position and then the second edge in the horizontal position, then the narrow inner surface would be flat on the table, and less of a chance of moving because it’s easier to put pressure down on the piece. Not trying to be an ass. Just when I’ve always worked on my projects, like you, I try to think of other ways to make my job easier and safer. Please let me know what your experience tells you. Looking forward to more of these extremely helpful and interesting videos. Great work. Cheers.
I don't find it any easier to do the second pass flat on the table, and since feather boards make that step easier, you would have to stack feather boards on the fence face.
Haha wish I had known about these last year before I wood paneled a whole school with mitered corners around all the columns. It seems to me that you could cut a strip of the profiled miter to receive the piece on the vertical. The profile would lend support at the bottom where it’s needed.
I don’t know if he used the locking bevel, but Stickley relied on miters to create the “ideal” quarter sawn timber. Shipwrights also do this on masts, booms, and spars to avoid becoming top heavy.
Stickley used a lot of veneers, for quartersawn legs, tabletops and so on. Had the good fortune to do a faux-Stickley kitchen recently for a family of collectors and got a close look at a lot of their work.
the lock miter bit might be really good for building picture frames. I don't have the money for an underpinning machine (nor the space) and cross nailing is only so affective. this could be just the thing I need
Can you make a box with a top using the lock miter joints? I other words, can you go cross grain on one end of each of the sides, then along each side of the top piece and set the top in to the lock together?
I know that you have made videos in blade height before, so I will see if I have this correct. The blade is set high for the rips (and cross cuts) for a steep cutting angle making a cleaner edge on the side that shows. Safety is not an additional concern because you are using the blade guard. Correct?
Have not seen a lock miter bit before. The cost is worth it (and I do not know their cost), because the cost of commercial gluelam solid posts from the shop suppliers are very expensive. They are made from remilled off cuts. If I glued up a lock joint post in the RF glue table, would the lock joint survive turning on a lathe?
To make the front door lighter; Can I make the Styles and Rails for the front door you explained on Jul 29, 2022. You made it look so simple, I am sure it is not that simple. Please tell us what you studied in college. Avid fan from California.
Hola! 🖐This is super cool, I never knew that bit even existed. I have seen this method before, "building" your own legs but you are right, using this tool and this method makes a lot of sense. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊👊
Good tips. I use this bit to make kitchen drawer boxes with Baltic Birch Ply. My tip here is your router table had better be double plywood or metal, not single thick phenolic and your in and out feed fence be of top quality in alignment. Anything else becomes a super strugle with this huge bit.
I like the Harvey roller guides. If you have influence with them, tell them it would be great to improve on them to connect more than one, side by side to have four or six rollers.
Do you mean stacking them up? Because side by side wouldn't require a connection between them since they can be locked anywhere in the miter track, even right next to each other.
Does or can using a metal level used with a table saw take the place of a jointer for straitening wood edges? Is a jointer the same as a table designed for a router or is a jointer basically a router turned upside-down with a straight edge? I am asking to reduce cost of of additional quality tools.
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼
*Tools used in this video:*
-Harvey roller guides: www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/table-saw-accessories
-Whiteside lock-miter bits: amzn.to/3b620VZ
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/3S284iY
-Digital height gauge: amzn.to/3JacNuN
-Video about setting up a lock miter bit: ua-cam.com/video/L_rJhz9C3wk/v-deo.html
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x
-Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M
-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
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(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Why not to make a vertical pass first? This leaves more contact surface with the fence and you don't need a custom push block. Then do the horizontal pass, where it is much easier to hold the board with only a narrow strip as a contact surface. Just thinking out loud.
@@ScramblerUSA I don't think it's easier to keep it stable on the table. You'd need a stacked featherboard mounted to the fence.
"do not do this with your fingers alone" Absolutely awesome advice. I've worked in surgery 49 years now, and have seen countless hands torn apart simply because they thought they wouldn't be the next amputee. Be safe
I almost lost a fingertip, to one of these very same bits.
5:00
Never stop letting spinning metal scare the hell out of you.
A crafty tip for speakers or lighting projects as the cables can hide up the middle channel.
This is a great way to create beautiful wood projects that are also somewhat lighter. And it's pretty easy, nothing that takes large amounts of finesse. Thanks!
I never really noticed the difference in woodgrain at 90 degrees. This technique reveals the best grain pattern on all 4 sides. I love the way you burnished the corners to fill in the gaps instead of filling them in with wood glue. 👏👍
This is exactly how I make my bed posts. Customers often want 5"×5" and up and this makes them way cheaper and lighter as well as easier. The last headboard I made was over 400lbs, I can't even imagine how heavy it would have been with solid posts
Also, I prefer to make 2 sets of pieces with the same cut on each side, 2 with horizontal cuts and 2 with vertical cuts opposite each other. Makes fitting them together much easier on large pieces
Also, some advice, if you're having trouble doing this in one pass, add an auxiliary fence to push the workpiece back a bit so you can take smaller passes
Do you ever put chamfers on those bed posts? Would the seam still look fine? I want to do this for the bed I am making, but want a chamfer on the posts.
@@sailblue10 should be okay, as long as it's not super deep.
How do you keep them from sounding hollow? Serious question, this might be a concern I have where building 4x4 / 5x5 posts this way might simplify things.
@@danielnewby2255 with them being that small, it shouldn't sound hollow. If you did want to make it not sound hollow, you could fill the cavity with a proper sized plug. I had that idea while watching this video. I'd probably just cap the top and bottom with a plug if I was gonna make it this way.
@@sailblue10 yes I put roughly 1/16-3/32 chamfers on them. There is enough "miter" there that as long as your bits are clean and sharp there won't be a noticeable seam. Proper glue spreading plays a factor as well
Thank you for the tip! A brand new way of doing legs from 3/4 panel
Thanks so much for this. I hate getting a nice grain pattern on one side and cathedrals on the other, and I have a lock miter bit but have struggled with both the set up and the application. Here you've shown me how to set it up, and how to get my money's worth out of it getting nice grain on all four sides of a post.
James you are the undisputed king of videos providing tested, safe instruction with woodworking power tools.
OUTSTANDING and SIMPLE method to setup a Lock Miter Bit. Thanks so much for sharing.
Built a set of quartersawn Oak Morris Chairs with this technique - works a charm and looked fantastic. Besides looks and weight, you are also making a far more dimensionally stable leg that will resist warping. Your setup also inhaled the large amount of dust/chips generated by the large bits very well. While I have used feather boards, I really like the rollers. For those who have never used additional support - the "My fingers are enough" crowd - the quality and consistency of your cuts will improve dramatically with support. Thanks James
I have made thousands of posts using this brilliant joinery method.... used to work at a manufacturing shop....
Once again, I continue to be amazed at your depth of knowledge. Just when I think that you have covered every angle in woodworking you come up with another amazing video.
Good going!
I low key think your actually reading our comments and creating content we desire. Thanks you kind sir!
Never knew this existed, and I'm buying that bit now! This technique really tickles my fancy.
This is a fantastic tip! Ordering a lock miter bit tomorrow morning.
I hope to see a video demonstrating those roller guides and your opinion on getting a set verses using just a feather board. That thing looks awesome!
Watching him use it sold me.
He's got a video on them. I _think_ it's in one of his "Cool Tools" video series.
I have a lock miter bit which I picked up at a yard sale 2 yrs ago. Its big - ive been toooo scared of it to try it. And that Harvey table saw kit looks really nice.
Wow!! This stuff is amazing! You wood worker pros are fun watch. I am always amazed at things you guys can do.
Killer Video! I’m bursting with ideas! I’m sure that Harvey Adjustable Roller isn’t cheap, but I think that I need one. I’m already set on the lock-miter bit. Keep up the great work!
Always learning when I watch…excellent!
Thanks James your techniques are invaluable. I recently bought a Sommerfeld router table and plan to use the lock miter set. Your descriptions involving fingerboard guides probably saved me some miscuts.
I think you meant to say "rift cuts" instead of quartersawn faces, as quartersawn oak is Full of rays, where rift cut has the short flecks.
Keep up the good work, your channel is tops.
I’m curious, would these types of joints work with tapered boards for legs
i don't know which i like most about your channel; you're clear and concise instruction or you name. Go James Madison: Stumpy Nubs Forever!
very nice idea, I make legs by cutting boards into small strips and gluing them together but this looks way better. Thanks for sharing.
Ahhh, my ET brother --- I've tried set up blocks and all kind of different methodes to set these &(*()'s up, just tried this method and the SOB's worked like a champ --- Only took 10 years! Thank you. Thank you, Thank you!!! --- P.S.: L.G.Stickley did the 4 square legs early last century!
Those roller guides look great. I machine smaller parts by attaching them to a larger piece of wood with double sided tape.
I appreciate this video. As a hobbyist, I need to be frugal with my money and space (small shop). These bits look like a good investment given how many of my projects have legs or multiple faces.
Amazing that this video has been released just now:
I set up my new Incra LS positioned on my router table last night and did my first Mitre Lock joints to achieve exactly this!
James, your timing is impeccable 😅
I've seen those locking miters before but never really knew why I might want one. Now I know....But the thing in this video that really got me is that roller guide! OMG! I need one (or two or three). I use feather boards whenever possible both on my router table and table saw but they are always "sticky", especially if the stock is not completely smooth. Alas, though, the roller guides are out of my price range. I may have to rig up a DIY version of them. Love your channel!
Thank you for showing the set up. I noticed your bit does not have a bearing on top. Is there a particular reason for that?
Great video. I used the lock bit when assembling some hardwood fence posts which slipped over pt posts. Was able to make beautiful hardwood (solid looking) posts without spending a premium on solid hardwood 4x4s. Also to your point, you can choose the more pleasing grain patterns. In the end there’s less of an issue with bowing over time one might get with solid wood. The lock bit miter joint is so much superior to a simple 45 deg miter, I would almost always choose this especially i. The uses you’ve outlined here. Less expense in stock and really, if done well, a superior end result.
I think I'm gonna try this trick to turn some round legs on the lathe. I bet the grain patterns would be awesome
Genius-level. Marvellous craftsmanship, quite therapeutic to watch!
Yeah I got 3 different bits or sizes should I say and that half inch bit when that thing is running it's kind of scary so all being said let me ask you this what is your router speed ?
Used tis type of bit in attempt to find a locking miter for boxes. Mine was a failure for my purposes. did this awhile back shoulda waited for you. LOL!
Good to see that the fingers have seemingly healed (on video anyway)... I have no doubt that you are still dealing with some of the aftermath.... be well and THANK YOU! for the great content... it is a tremendous help.
James
You have great videos. I have learned a lot from you. Your breadth of knowledge and ability to present is amazing. Your method of getting the height of the bit above the table is Ingenious. I do think you may have missed something on this one. It looks like you are measuring the total height of the bit and you really need to measure the height of the angled portion of the bit. Including the short vertical section will introduce error to your measurement. There is no good place on the bit to measure the height without including the vertical section. I have the small Whiteside bit and have used the following equation to get the height of the angled portion after doing a trial and error fit. Hb = 2(H)-Ts. To use the equation, I measured the bits height above the table top (H) and the thickness(Ts) of the material used to get the fit. Hb is the height of the angled portion of the bit. With this height, you can use your method for any thickness of material the bit can handle. It works great. Also, I happen to have access to scrap 3/8" thick HDPE which I use as the straight edge for adjusting the fence. It works great because if it touches the bit you can feel the bit grab it without moving the bit.
Thank you for all these tips! That is a huge help!
Love that roller-guide. Not seen one of those before.
Love the roller guides! Wish I could find some in Europe!
Does this work well with 3/4" plywood? I don't have one of these bits. But this would make a great technique for shop furniture/stands/tables/etc if it works with plywood.
Always learn something from you. I could never get those cuts right. We will try it again
First THANK YOU for your sharing of knowledge, Greatly appreciated. Your thoughts on using this technique on very long pieces 12 to 15 feet? for Faux wood beams. Rather than using the miter,tape and fold method. My thoughts were this could be done off site and assembled at the job.
Im curious. Would this still work the same if you taper the legs? For example 4in to 2in.. if so how would the process still be the same?
Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!
Thank you Stumpy that’s great advice! I have learned at least two things from every video you produce. Your a wealth of information! 👍
Once again… the Stumpster steps in and helps us find a way to use less material to create more build options for our projects, while avoiding massive $$$ costs.
😃👍
That's just brilliant, James! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great tip, especially for exotic woods that my dealer only usually stocks in 3/4"
Can this groove support three panels coming together on an outside corner? Like constructing a cube or a beam with visible end?
Thanks James, as timber prices head higher, these sorts of techniques are going to become commonplace. In Australia, so much of the accessible "good wood" is gone in so many places. You see a lot of benchtops edged this way and joined table legs are very common. (A lot of our hardwood is pretty hard work, too...)
need to know name of that special featherboard you are using ----i can t read the name on it ----thanx rick
Great video!! And I expect we will see that roller guide in an upcoming cool tools. ;)
Thanks for the great video James 👍
Thank you, Mr. Nubs!
Cool tip!
Oh. This is going to be HANDY for a future project that I have planned. 8)
I'm just gonna have to figure out how to add in some internal structural support in some key areas, but I think that can be handled by simply glue-trapping inserts in those particular areas.
Can you switch the order of cutting the miters? Would that be easier to cut the miter on the edge first?
You can switch the order if you find that easier.
I needed this video two weeks ago! I'm making an oak bathroom vanity. Oh well. Next time.
Great video! I had no idea about this kind of joinery and will try it when I get back into the shop!
Glad to see you using that narrow paint scraper. I use one in my shop all the time for glue removal and it is very handy for scraping wood imperfections and leveling off small offset in joints. Just be sure to keep it sharp.
can legs made this way also be tapered?
Thanks for sharing James. That was a great lesson today making the post/ legs. Really some great information. Fred.
Awesome tip. Expensive bit, but worth it if you want to make furniture that looks awesome.
Love this technique, but is there a way to adapt it to tapered legs?
can this work with tapered legs?
Ain't that slick! Love that roller guide.
I'm quite new to woodworking: on a scale of one to death, what's the feasibility of turning these legs after they're glued together?
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Great video,thanks for all you do for us! How do you like that RG-1? I’d love to see a video on it, I’ve searched YT and found nothing
Thanks for this, I have got to try it. Question....would it work if you tapered the pieces, making a tapered leg? I made a table with tapered legs. Glued two pieces together face to face with quarter sawn white oak with medullary rays showing on two sides. I then tapered the legs on two sides and then glued on QSWO shop made veneer from the same tree to cover the sides with the glue line. Tiny chamfer on the corners hides the veneer joint. Quarter sawn faces all around.
If you mill both edges of two sides flat on the table, then mill both edges of the mating parts up against the fence, the tongues all align so you only need to clamp in one direction instead of needing clamps across both faces.
The compass mg 36 mitre gage. Is this one of the mitre gages you did on your utube channel to show some faults and how did you find the Gauge. I've been looking for a specific tool, please help.
Would there be any benefit to "packing" or "filling" the empty space in the center with scrap wood if you intended to have a mortise and tenon joint? I'm thinking of a bed frame or something else where you would want to have a chunkier leg which could have a larger empty space but also wanted a strong and supported joint.
Only for tenons in the ends. Pro tip but you can use the lock miter for putting the tenon in the end too.
Thanks James. Loved this video. Was just wondering though, that when you passed each of the pieces through the router for the first time, you were to do them in the vertical position and then the second edge in the horizontal position, then the narrow inner surface would be flat on the table, and less of a chance of moving because it’s easier to put pressure down on the piece. Not trying to be an ass. Just when I’ve always worked on my projects, like you, I try to think of other ways to make my job easier and safer. Please let me know what your experience tells you. Looking forward to more of these extremely helpful and interesting videos. Great work. Cheers.
I don't find it any easier to do the second pass flat on the table, and since feather boards make that step easier, you would have to stack feather boards on the fence face.
WOW! That's a great idea! Thanks for the great video, as always! 😎
Haha wish I had known about these last year before I wood paneled a whole school with mitered corners around all the columns. It seems to me that you could cut a strip of the profiled miter to receive the piece on the vertical. The profile would lend support at the bottom where it’s needed.
I don’t know if he used the locking bevel, but Stickley relied on miters to create the “ideal” quarter sawn timber. Shipwrights also do this on masts, booms, and spars to avoid becoming top heavy.
Many craftsman furniture makers in the early days would put quartersawn veneers over the flat-sawn sides of the legs, as well.
@@StumpyNubs Bah! Posers.
Stickley used a lot of veneers, for quartersawn legs, tabletops and so on. Had the good fortune to do a faux-Stickley kitchen recently for a family of collectors and got a close look at a lot of their work.
the lock miter bit might be really good for building picture frames. I don't have the money for an underpinning machine (nor the space) and cross nailing is only so affective. this could be just the thing I need
Can you make a box with a top using the lock miter joints? I other words, can you go cross grain on one end of each of the sides, then along each side of the top piece and set the top in to the lock together?
Do you have any suggestions on how to dress up the bottom to cover the hole or add leveling feet?
Put a plug in it.
How would it stand up if used outside? Any recommendations?
Depends on the wood, the type of glue, and the weather 🤔
As always your information is priceless! I will be definitely giving this a go. Thanks!
Excellent video. Thank you!!
I know that you have made videos in blade height before, so I will see if I have this correct. The blade is set high for the rips (and cross cuts) for a steep cutting angle making a cleaner edge on the side that shows. Safety is not an additional concern because you are using the blade guard. Correct?
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Thanks again James. Great tutorial!
I wonder how this joint would look if I wanted a chamfer on the corners. Would the seam still look good?
As long as your seams are tight, it would look fine.
Have not seen a lock miter bit before. The cost is worth it (and I do not know their cost), because the cost of commercial gluelam solid posts from the shop suppliers are very expensive. They are made from remilled off cuts.
If I glued up a lock joint post in the RF glue table, would the lock joint survive turning on a lathe?
To make the front door lighter; Can I make the Styles and Rails for the front door you explained on Jul 29, 2022. You made it look so simple, I am sure it is not that simple.
Please tell us what you studied in college.
Avid fan from California.
Hola! 🖐This is super cool, I never knew that bit even existed. I have seen this method before, "building" your own legs but you are right, using this tool and this method makes a lot of sense. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊👊
Out of curiosity, why is blue tape your go to method?
For context, I've only used blue tape for painting.
Thanks
It's easy and can pull the joint really tight.
Good tips. I use this bit to make kitchen drawer boxes with Baltic Birch Ply. My tip here is your router table had better be double plywood or metal, not single thick phenolic and your in and out feed fence be of top quality in alignment. Anything else becomes a super strugle with this huge bit.
What is the tool used at 0:45?
I keep seeing these used and I understand the purpose, but I haven't found a name to associate with them.
It's just a scraper: amzn.to/3VLNGFB
@@StumpyNubs Thanks bud! I'm always happy to learn something new.
Great video James. I never thought of this!
Where is the video of that build using the custom legs. Would be cool to see.
I like the Harvey roller guides. If you have influence with them, tell them it would be great to improve on them to connect more than one, side by side to have four or six rollers.
Do you mean stacking them up? Because side by side wouldn't require a connection between them since they can be locked anywhere in the miter track, even right next to each other.
I love the mitre lock joint, with hickory I guess you must take some off with exchanger bit?
Great video! I was wondering though, does the alternating grain prohibit profiling in any way?
Using this method to create a table leg is it possible to then create a taper on the leg?
Ngl, I prefer the flat sawn grain myself, but the point still holds. Will get one of these cutters as soon as I can.
I have one of these James but it's too big to fit through the hole in my router table by an 8th inch. 😖
Does or can using a metal level used with a table saw take the place of a jointer for straitening wood edges? Is a jointer the same as a table designed for a router or is a jointer basically a router turned upside-down with a straight edge? I am asking to reduce cost of of additional quality tools.
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@@StumpyNubs ah thank you!