I had this: Pioneer DEH-X8800bhs head unit Audio Control Epicenter Audio Control EQL XTANT X603 amp Front doors JL AUDIO 6"C2-600 set REAR DOORS JL AUDIO C2-650X set and 3-12w0v3's in a 5.25 cu ft box with a 4 x 10 port by 16.5 in long (Box size given to me by your own Carlos Chavez) in a 2006 Nissan Maxima. Sounded awesome.
Just found this video, this is gold guys! I'm actually designing 2 systems around full JL audio (speakers, sub, amps, wires, fuses, fue disteibution block, battery post clamps, etc). All except the head unit cuz you guys dont want to own that piece of the market.
@@JLAudioInc guys, I have a question for you. Is it possible to get some feedback round a system designed for a Chevy Express Van? I'm gravitating towards a pair of 10TW1 inside a sealed box, a set of C3-650 for the front and a set of C1 690 component for the rear in the OEM location with the tweeters quite high (near the ceiling). But I'm not sure If I should also use a set of 4" or 3.5" coaxials in the middle of my huge van to retain the volume level in that part because it really sounds a bit thin. Currently I have a sifferent setup (still aftermarket), but I noticed that right away. And would you advice for an RD400/4 + RD500/1?
Steve, you should stop saying sorry for using proper vocabulary, because there is a limit to what you can explain using primitive lexicon. This is why I watch you - because you are an expert and I expect you to go into details with proper vocab. In Europe we appreciate expertise and we do not believe in oversimplified theories. You need technical vocab to explain technical issues. It means you know what you are saying. You should not deprive the educated ones of the joy of a proper explanation just because there are other people who never had ambition to learn. Let them learn some nice tech notions now. I love watching you, anyway. One day I will have a full set of JL Audio in my car.
I must disagree with the clipping. I'm sorry, I come from a very purist audiofile school of thought and clipping means the top and bottom of the sinewave is clipped, that means distortion is present and accuracy of reproduction is compromised. And damping factor comes to be very important depending of the subwoofer construction. A free air sub will need it the most while a sealed box on the lower limit of volume can handle most things with very little damping factor from the amp. I come from live Audio for bands, venues and weddings, so I've studied quite a bit about audio, beaming, time alignement, venue acoustics, box acoustics, etc. Please let me know if there is something particularly different in the car audio world (for example, I know we look for oposite characteristics in terms of on and off axis response). Thanks from México.
Hi Guys! it's so relaxing to hear people that know what they're talking about!
We appreciate that! Like everyone else, we're always learning but we're happy to know you are learning so much from our sessions! Stay Tüned for more!
I had this:
Pioneer DEH-X8800bhs
head unit
Audio Control Epicenter
Audio Control EQL
XTANT X603 amp
Front doors JL AUDIO
6"C2-600 set
REAR DOORS JL AUDIO
C2-650X set
and 3-12w0v3's in a 5.25 cu ft box with a 4 x 10 port by 16.5 in long (Box size given to me by your own Carlos Chavez) in a 2006 Nissan Maxima. Sounded awesome.
Just found this video, this is gold guys! I'm actually designing 2 systems around full JL audio (speakers, sub, amps, wires, fuses, fue disteibution block, battery post clamps, etc). All except the head unit cuz you guys dont want to own that piece of the market.
Awesome! We're happy to hear you enjoyed it!
@@JLAudioInc guys, I have a question for you. Is it possible to get some feedback round a system designed for a Chevy Express Van? I'm gravitating towards a pair of 10TW1 inside a sealed box, a set of C3-650 for the front and a set of C1 690 component for the rear in the OEM location with the tweeters quite high (near the ceiling).
But I'm not sure If I should also use a set of 4" or 3.5" coaxials in the middle of my huge van to retain the volume level in that part because it really sounds a bit thin. Currently I have a sifferent setup (still aftermarket), but I noticed that right away.
And would you advice for an RD400/4 + RD500/1?
Haha, “…hell bent on putting Warranty out of a job”. That’s my motto as a QA guy.
:)
Steve, you should stop saying sorry for using proper vocabulary, because there is a limit to what you can explain using primitive lexicon. This is why I watch you - because you are an expert and I expect you to go into details with proper vocab. In Europe we appreciate expertise and we do not believe in oversimplified theories. You need technical vocab to explain technical issues. It means you know what you are saying. You should not deprive the educated ones of the joy of a proper explanation just because there are other people who never had ambition to learn. Let them learn some nice tech notions now. I love watching you, anyway. One day I will have a full set of JL Audio in my car.
I must disagree with the clipping. I'm sorry, I come from a very purist audiofile school of thought and clipping means the top and bottom of the sinewave is clipped, that means distortion is present and accuracy of reproduction is compromised.
And damping factor comes to be very important depending of the subwoofer construction. A free air sub will need it the most while a sealed box on the lower limit of volume can handle most things with very little damping factor from the amp.
I come from live Audio for bands, venues and weddings, so I've studied quite a bit about audio, beaming, time alignement, venue acoustics, box acoustics, etc.
Please let me know if there is something particularly different in the car audio world (for example, I know we look for oposite characteristics in terms of on and off axis response).
Thanks from México.