Are you going to run new speaker wire to the door. If so, what’s the point using the adapter from the factory speaker plugs to the new speakers and is the factory wiring enough when running an amp. Asking cause I’m in a similar situation with my Holden Colorado
you're very conscise and clear when speaking to the audience. Greatly appreciated, because i'm hearing impaired and have no trouble understanding you. I also like how clear and detailed your explantions are. Attention to detail separates you from the rest. Keep up the great work! 👍
Perfect timing. I am still putting together my plan for my big upgrade. I've been watching a ton of your videos, too. But this video answered a lot of questions that I didn't even know had to be asked! This is simply THE best channel to learn about DIY car audio in the most comprehensive, professional, yet simply videos. Thanks for all your years of dedication to car audio and I am definitely looking forward to seeing how this car progresses.
I really like how you go into details and explain everything step by step. You actually makes everything easier to understand... Thanks for the Great information . Keep it up...🤙
I love your professionalism and engineering mindset - these qualities combined with the consideration of various types of customer needs calls for an exceptional experience both for the fabricator and the customer. Thank you for sharing your expertise and wisdom!
PAC makes lots of different adapter harnesses. I got one for my Lexus that plugged in between the factory amp and wire harness. I was able to output the factory amp directly into my aftermarket amp with it
Hi Mark! I started the real thing two years ago because of your videos. When i took the car to tune the audio (i have my own gear now), i got a lot of congrats from the pro's. After tuning i was invited to a lot of demos and shows only with what i'v built. Thanks!
I had to do the same with my 19' Sonata. Crutchfield didn't have anything that could be used. AXXESS & PAC AUDIO makes wiring T harnesses for adding a DSP or LOC. No cutting factory wiring or T Tapping anywhere.
Great series on a newer vehicle! Although this is way more than I would be willing to spend, it provides all the info necessary of what is needed and what to look for. I would appreciate seeing more videos for this build!
I really appreciate all the info and guides! I'm in the middle of trying to squeeze as much quality as I can out of a new Camry Hybrid, and all of this info is helping me to pick parts to sound good - without breaking that 30A max draw limit imposed by the inverter
I had a $2200 system in a Chrysler LeBaron in the mid late 1990's. I thought that was budget then as a couple of my amps were not name brand ones. You probably can not upgrade much for $250 these days bud.
@Living_EDventures I'm about to spend $140 to more than double the quality of my current oem sound system. I'm getting name brand speakers and a solid head unit. "Budget" has gotta be something that your average joe can afford - not people who have this as their main hobby.
@Living_EDventures i gocha but budget would just be the bare minimum while still giving a decent upgrade. So new head unit and speakers that increase your overall quality would be considered "budget" and you can do all that decently for $250
Great vid. Really appreciate your transparency. Helpful for me to understand what all of the different components do. I can tell you put in a lot of effort
Very much appreciated. Thought I had all I need for my install, then learn if the very likely need for load generating devices. It seems to never end with modern cars!
It will only get worse. Car manufacturers don't want you to actually own or modify your vehicle. Wait til the general public learns more about their deceptive practices like having the ability to use heated seats, but requiring you to pay a subscription fee to unlock their use... people need to start voting with their wallet now and refusing to purchase from those manufacturers and making it clear why. It won't last long if shareholders find out why the cars aren't selling.
Great info , for my 23 tacos with JBL (and all the accessories) I plane on 3 way up front, Audio frog, Sony es or Alpine Hi res, 6. 1/2" in rear doors. JL audio 8ch and mono VXI amps. PAC audio 6 ch with optical output to maintain factory HU, or swap HU to a pioneer WT7600nex, or alpine halo 9".
Great video are usually ❤. I feel like what really holds me back in my build is I am not to sure what to get when it comes to installing. Meaning, what size wire sleeves to get, where to add padding to speakers/brackets, and all those small things that make a build perfect. Would love to see something like that
Been going for weeks part time on a Toyota sienna van. Did so much acoustical treatment to the front dooes and even in behind tghe trim, wiring, fiberglass pods at only the rear armrests, dynamatt! Etc etc. All this work for audio in a car. They should offer audio cars off the line.
I miss the early 2000s I made so much side money doing systems. I made a dj truck the guy used at beach festivals. It ran on 2 generators and was 10 kilowatts. Used loud horns and 2 massive 4 Kw subs. Eventually it shook the truck apart. Ive always wanted to do another one with modern sound equipment and I would tackle Dolby Atmos surround sound true 5.1 spacial audio with hifi sound.
Just bought some jl audio speakers. I got them in my first car when I was 17 and they were some of the best they offered and the bass bumped. These ones don’t have a location for the tweeters though so it’s just speakers and a radio unit
These speaker selections are a good option for any beginner builders and installation is fairly attainable..but for inexperienced installers I would recommend doing your homework
The 4k budget is total or components only? Because if that's the max budget 4k, you're not factoring labor, materials etc into that 4k. Especially at 3500+ in just system components. I'd love to see a final breakdown for cost on one of these builds for the average customer. A custom box(s) for the subs, and install plus misc wiring and such will be well over that remaining balance on a 4k budget will it not?
@uome2k7 I'd bet it's a lot more for the average customers install. This is his brother in laws car if I recall correctly. Custom boxes 3d scanned and designed, plus print time? I'd bet there is a few hours of design time, and probably 100+ hours of print time.
Totally agree on this. What he showed, the true cost of that system was upwards of $5000 - $5500, depending on all the little things that weren't mentioned, especially for a first-time system builder (such as myself). The true cost of my system is 3x what I was originally hoping to spend, factoring in some of these things, and so now, I'm having to make choices. Of course, this is NORMAL, but this video is a bit misleading because it doesn't help someone take into account all of these other "hidden costs" of building a car audio system.
Very informative video! I've been watching your content for the last couple days now, as I'm currently in the process of replacing all my speakers in my car. My rear speaker blew out due to my iDoing head unit overloading it (despite the off-brand model, the iDoing was apparently still much more powerful than my factory head unit). So I've been researching and went with JBL 621F speakers to replace my original stock speakers in my Crosstrek. I don't play my music that loud, and I'm not really looking for a crazy setup with a ton of bass-- I just want a modest setup (no amp) with better speakers that can handle the iDoing head unit more easily than my stock OEM speakers were able to. But then I found out that my old speakers were 4 ohms for impedance, and the JBL's I bought were 3 ohms-- *uh oh...* According to a lot of things I read online, that could be a big no-no... Thankfully I haven't actually installed them yet, they arrive tomorrow in the mail. Apparently those particular speakers are higher in sensitivity than other door speakers, so the 3 ohms the JBL's use seem to be balanced out by the sensitivity rating. I've already contacted iDoing support and waiting for their response to see if those speakers will be fine for their head unit, so I've been trying to be careful before I mess up my audio setup. It's a lot to learn, but I'm also learning a lot from watching your videos, so thanks! :)
I love the detail and quality of work man but to be honest most the systems I have seen you build are A. High end. High quality. Very Low in output. I been doing spl /Sq competitions for years. And 4k can get you a loud system With electrical upgrades. I like JL as much as the next person but other options out there can absolutely crush them in performance per dollar. Why not reach out to D4S or Skyhigh etc and get some spl grade sponsors. I really want to see how you would build a spl competition wall ported or 6th order. Something on the order of 15,000+ watts. You can get a JP43 and a pair of JP234 a dsp and speakers and some subs for 4k and this will nearly rip the trunk lid off I generally over size my amps by 15-25%. I find 120-160w rms per channel works well for most mids and Highs. For daily drivers and still having usable storage. 500-1000 watts rms on 1 or 2 10's in a proper ported box or 3-4 8in under seats for trucks. It's 2023 every build needs a dsp and active filters (dedicated channel for every woofer tweeter etc)
That's what you see for a good reason... Most people do not want an SPL build, especially to the level you're describing. It's impractical, and a build on that wouldn't provide nearly the same amount of usable information to the majority of the viewership or target audience. Also just an observation, a lot of folks going for SPL with the equipment mentioned could benefit greatly from stepping back and observing some of the basics
Hey Great video. Can you consider doing a simmilar video for BMW. I have the base stereo no amp. There is so little info on the best way to do this . There is a little bit of a knowlage black hole on the subject .
Why don’t you correct the signal straight from the DSP? You could sum and apply filters to flatten the signal from the DSP. If you go this route you omit one step so you introduce less noise or artifacts.
So I have a 35 year old AM FM radio that came out of an old pickup truck that has been converted to Bluetooth and an aux out but it's an 8 ohm radio system. If i use an audio control lc2i ( because obviously a radio that old did not have RCA jacks)will I damage a Scar RP 600.5 and run 4 ohm speakers? Do i run the risk of burning up anything? I've been told "no worries" and "you'll melt down the car". What say you-Big Wisdom?
I got about $800 on my car, prefabed box for a 12 in and all other speakers are in factory locations. I did have an aftermarket headunit ($350) but that went out so back to stock.
if running a 4 channel amplifier can the passive rca cables be ran to the amp and then also used the front speaker wires from the head unit ? I have 6 speakers and two are under the dash and I'd like to connect the other 4 speakers to the amplifier under the seat. thanks in advance
So I did the system in my 21 Elantra. I soldered RCA's directly to my front left output wires then ran those into a Kenwood 6006 DSP. I didn't use any lgd's. My system sounds amazing, imo, is that because I'm using a DSP?I definitely want to see this whole build. I had to make my own T harness to be able to integrate into mine.
@@basstech714 thank God! I freaked a little bit because when I did my research I saw nothing about LGD'S! Thought you only needed those on Chrysler cars!!
Hi there, I have a Bose Premium in my Opel Insignia Sports Tourer which sounds far from premium. Is it possible to produce a video about the conversion of a Bose system? Thanks in advance.
You covered this ages ago. But for time aligment (fully active front end) with a tape measure do you measure to the headrest or something else like your ears. I just find with ears its not quite right. Apreciate any feedback 😊
@@JasonWW2000 thanks. Apreciate the info. All seems good as vocals are centred. Just wanted a second opinion to make sure its all good. Will ideally level match them eventually, but allways busy 😂
Love the video, only thing I disagree with is using TW3's. Regular 12W3's would have been more cost effective and would sound 10x better. I get you did it for space, but I feel like you gotta give some of that space up if you want better sound quality. I always try to push people towards a conventional woofer if they have the room for them, to me they've always sounded better than the flat ones. They are very punchy, the bottom end just isn't there.
In my boat, I have a JL audio M 600/1 mono class D 600 watt amp for my two JL audio M3 series 10 inch subs. My question is, am I able to add two more identical JL audio M3 series 10 inch subs to the amp? if so, should I wire them in series or in parallel? What gauge wire should I use? Thank you Jeff
I would like to see you do a video on a 2 seater sports car with mid engine mount and no space for subwoofer box unless you get a built compact self amp sub
I have a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited hardtop. I am planning a build based on your designs. I was curious if from your experience if a vented box with the subwoofers firing towards the back with the vent in the same size or firing up with the vent firing back? I don't have anything to test with?
Ok, so I'm getting confused on your equation for finding the ohms. I learn best when I'm reading it lol. Is there an article that you could recommend that would explain that?
I have a Lexus SC430, and I am redoing the audio system. I will be changing the head unit, amp, and speakers. My main issue is the shallow 8 inch subwoofer. Most shallow subs don't fit, apparently. My choices seem to be a Polk, Audiofrog, and a Focal. I am leaning more towards the Audiofrog. I'll be running everything through a Rockford Fosgate 5 channel amp. Any input on the sub?
Hi there, Mark you really make greats videos. Im trying to upgrade my 2012 audi a4 audio system the 10 speakers mmi model. But crutchfield have practically none advice nor a real speakers recommendations, any help...
for very "selfish" reasons, id love to see u do a build on an early miata (maybe even a "bose-ectomy" by removing the trash bose factory junk) ...& since its a very popular convertible with a very challenging layout, such as limited space, & a weird sized 8" component speaker in the doors, it would prove interesting... always enjoy ur channel, thank u sir
I hope you see this… I have a question, have you ever tried putting speakers in headrest? I would like to do it in my Tacoma. Just for the rear side. As you may know, the door speakers are located at the bottom of the door, there’s no way they can stand out there. Suggestions please!
Hello, if possible, I have one question. For example, I have a passat b6 with a simple audio system, but I am a big fan of sound quality. I'm more interested in more power and heavier sound, but is it possible to get something similar to surround sound or dolby (for music, not movies) with an aftermarket player and amplifiers or by installing more speakers (if possible). Thank you very much for the reply:)
any amps to recommend? i want to upgrade my stock amp. i dont plan on getting subs but if i ever do i think id get a separate amp completely. so to upgrade the stock amp i just want it to power all the speakers. i have a pioneer head unit & kicker speakers around
Yo Yo Mark, question for you. Will a new set of DD or AD subs, give me any flagrant difference from this set of old school Eclipse 7000 dual 2 ohm woofers? Power is plentiful and crispy clean.
So I am already pretty happy with my standard car audio, but if i turn the sound on from 70 procent to max there is not much difference in loudness and especially base, as I think there is no sub in the car, I don't want to be deaf either after listening to it for 15min more like a club kind of vibe in the car, Should a sub box with amp already be enough? Or what do you guys recommend?
so my question is door speakers, I wanna run 8 kicker cs 4ohm full range 6.5 door speakers, so will I need 2 four channel amps that run at 4ohm? (this was my plan) or is it better to get one higher power 4 channel amp and bridge the eight down in pairs to a single 4 channel amp. could I also run 4 off the head unit and run 4 off a single 4 channel amp? I hope im making sense. I understand sub wiring but I never have run amped doors. thank you
Hi Mark !! I have one doubt regarding LC2I pro, does it have the functionality to run two amplifiers at the same time mean full range and bass amplifier together?
If I'm using an after market head unit ( Pioneer DMHW4660NEX) with a powered sub (Pioneer TS-WH500A)... will I need an amp kit or will the head unit power it?
WAIT, why do you need to correct or "deequalize" when using a DSP? Because youre using one, you have the luxury of doing that inside of your DSP equalization, saving the cost. Right?
am planning an audio for my honda accord 2005 model sedan, its Focal KX3E -3 Way Front Helix G4 Amps -2Nos, JL Audio TW3 12inch-1nos, Helix BT HD Streamer, Helix DSP3s So u can tell me ,Did i need ANL Fuse ,if Yes tell me whats the Ampere i Need it,and Whatelse i need to run all these Electronics
Lol no. SEMA is useless for the car audio industry. They stick us with Chinese led light manufacturers in an obscure hall of the convention center. Pass
I have a Chrysler 300S w/ alpine system that sucks, no subwoofer with it. I'm going with audiocontrol Amp withDSP. I only have 6 speakers. I'm just changing speakers, adding a Amp and subwoofer. What else do I need besides the audiocontrol DM 801
Feel free to ask JL themselves. Whenever possible they recommend having a flat signal into the DSP amp in order to save processing power on the tuning DSP itself.
I love how car manufacturers charge so much money for a factory 'premium' system that is still garbage in comparison to a proper aftermarket system with DSP tuning. I really wish some manufacturers would have a proper tuned, DSP-ran OEM system, they definitely have the ability to do so, but the bean counters seem to control or constrain most of the decision making. Even my wife's 'Premium' Bang&Olufsen system in the Q5 is disappointing in comparison to my simple 2-way front active + rear filler system I built for my golf.
Followed yo on insta for a long time, and really enjoy your fabrication skills! With your knowledge, I'd really like to see how you'd plan a system for a small work van! Many of us out here spend far too much time listening to road noise in old terrible vans like a Transit Connect, or in my case a Caddy. The dash is hard rattling plastic, there's limited space for subs. Maybe a 6x9" or 8" in the cavity behind each seat? There's also plenty of exposed metal etc. How would you go about planning noise reduction and audio for something like this, that obviously isn't an expensive enough car to warrant a big investment?
I need help, I got a phoenix gold rx 2 500 amp with power bass 12”subs, first time getting a sub and amp, and I want my bass to actually hit. I keep seeing videos, yeah they explain the frequencies, gain, sound, etc. but what I’m looking for when tuning is what do I need to turn and adjust for more BASS, idc about the sound, distortion, loudness, etc (I’ll adjust the sound and distortion after I get it how I want it) but my main goal is BASS. Do I need to upgrade my amp to get more bass? Play with the knobs? Or should I get new subs and amp??
This is alot more complex than i had anticipated. I just want to update my 06 tundra. Installed an aftermarket kenwood head unit and have an alpine pwe-s8 on the way i got on sale for $210. I was hoping i could replace the 4 door speakers and 2 tweeters for under $300. Am i being unrealistic?
I got Rockford Fosgates for $250, all four, and they are very entry speakers. The tweters, were another $100, also entry level tweeters, Skar Audio front, Pioneer rear.
Would this apply to a bmw? I have a 2011 535i with the standard hi/fi system. How would i go about planning a system that wouldnt require a lot a fabrication?
i dont get if that amplifier handle 75x4 he gone to add 15 extra watts per mid bass. but what happen with twitters? how many watts does they need? or those 15 extra watts goes to the twitters? sorry for my bad english
If you have too much power coming from the amplifier, you turn down the gain way down and slowly raise it. When you start hearing distortion, you turn it back down a little bit so it stops. The gain cuts the power back until the speaker can handle it.
@baldylocc64 It shows that the *JL Audio C7-350cm* 3.5" midrange speakers are currently "IN STOCK" at Crutchfield right now so you shouldn't have a problem getting them!
So I'm if I get any after-market head unit I won't need to worry about factory problems such as getting a audio control like the AC-LGD or a FIX processor? If anyone has more information or suggestions for after market head units please let me know
Now that we have everything picked out lets get it ordered! See the full gear unboxing here: ua-cam.com/video/ip_Yls47PKQ/v-deo.html
Are you going to run new speaker wire to the door. If so, what’s the point using the adapter from the factory speaker plugs to the new speakers and is the factory wiring enough when running an amp. Asking cause I’m in a similar situation with my Holden Colorado
you're very conscise and clear when speaking to the audience. Greatly appreciated, because i'm hearing impaired and have no trouble understanding you. I also like how clear and detailed your explantions are. Attention to detail separates you from the rest. Keep up the great work! 👍
Perfect timing. I am still putting together my plan for my big upgrade. I've been watching a ton of your videos, too. But this video answered a lot of questions that I didn't even know had to be asked! This is simply THE best channel to learn about DIY car audio in the most comprehensive, professional, yet simply videos. Thanks for all your years of dedication to car audio and I am definitely looking forward to seeing how this car progresses.
I really like how you go into details and explain everything step by step. You actually makes everything easier to understand... Thanks for the Great information . Keep it up...🤙
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
I love your professionalism and engineering mindset - these qualities combined with the consideration of various types of customer needs calls for an exceptional experience both for the fabricator and the customer. Thank you for sharing your expertise and wisdom!
I’d love to see how you connect to the factory output then back to the speakers.
Yessssss
PAC makes lots of different adapter harnesses. I got one for my Lexus that plugged in between the factory amp and wire harness. I was able to output the factory amp directly into my aftermarket amp with it
@@mabolzichjjl thank you for that information. I have to see if they have one for my 16 Ford Taurus
@@mabolzichjjl Is your factory amp the mark Levinson??
@@allanb3222 no but the connector works for the ML system IIRC
I have had a 12TW3 for about 5 years in my daily driver and I am still amazed at how amazing it sounds!
Mark is probably the most knowledgeable car audio guy on SM💯
Really enjoy learning from him💯
Him and Chris fix it should do a podcast together 😂😂
Hi Mark! I started the real thing two years ago because of your videos. When i took the car to tune the audio (i have my own gear now), i got a lot of congrats from the pro's. After tuning i was invited to a lot of demos and shows only with what i'v built. Thanks!
I had to do the same with my 19' Sonata. Crutchfield didn't have anything that could be used. AXXESS & PAC AUDIO makes wiring T harnesses for adding a DSP or LOC. No cutting factory wiring or T Tapping anywhere.
Great series on a newer vehicle! Although this is way more than I would be willing to spend, it provides all the info necessary of what is needed and what to look for. I would appreciate seeing more videos for this build!
I really appreciate all the info and guides!
I'm in the middle of trying to squeeze as much quality as I can out of a new Camry Hybrid, and all of this info is helping me to pick parts to sound good - without breaking that 30A max draw limit imposed by the inverter
Very cool. The JL C2 components are what I am going to try for my current project. Thanks for the clarity on these.
Thanks for watching
The more I watch these videos the more I wish I just spent extra on the updated factory system
If 4,000 is a budget build what's my $250 build 😅
I had a $2200 system in a Chrysler LeBaron in the mid late 1990's. I thought that was budget then as a couple of my amps were not name brand ones. You probably can not upgrade much for $250 these days bud.
@Living_EDventures I'm about to spend $140 to more than double the quality of my current oem sound system. I'm getting name brand speakers and a solid head unit. "Budget" has gotta be something that your average joe can afford - not people who have this as their main hobby.
@AstroSalamander what are you getting for $140 and where? I was talking about a whole complete system.
@AstroSalamander I mean the bandpass box I bought was more than $140 bare.
@Living_EDventures i gocha but budget would just be the bare minimum while still giving a decent upgrade. So new head unit and speakers that increase your overall quality would be considered "budget" and you can do all that decently for $250
Great vid. Really appreciate your transparency. Helpful for me to understand what all of the different components do. I can tell you put in a lot of effort
I always enjoy your build vlogs!! Can't wait 😀
Very much appreciated. Thought I had all I need for my install, then learn if the very likely need for load generating devices. It seems to never end with modern cars!
It will only get worse. Car manufacturers don't want you to actually own or modify your vehicle. Wait til the general public learns more about their deceptive practices like having the ability to use heated seats, but requiring you to pay a subscription fee to unlock their use... people need to start voting with their wallet now and refusing to purchase from those manufacturers and making it clear why. It won't last long if shareholders find out why the cars aren't selling.
Would love to see the wire and accessories you decide on. I'm a big fan of Knukoncepts and would like to learn more about their products.
Put the whole process on here would love to see it beginning to end
Always do! Thanks for watching!
Great info , for my 23 tacos with JBL (and all the accessories) I plane on 3 way up front, Audio frog, Sony es or Alpine Hi res, 6. 1/2" in rear doors. JL audio 8ch and mono VXI amps. PAC audio 6 ch with optical output to maintain factory HU, or swap HU to a pioneer WT7600nex, or alpine halo 9".
Great video are usually ❤. I feel like what really holds me back in my build is I am not to sure what to get when it comes to installing. Meaning, what size wire sleeves to get, where to add padding to speakers/brackets, and all those small things that make a build perfect. Would love to see something like that
Been going for weeks part time on a Toyota sienna van. Did so much acoustical treatment to the front dooes and even in behind tghe trim, wiring, fiberglass pods at only the rear armrests, dynamatt! Etc etc. All this work for audio in a car. They should offer audio cars off the line.
Mark, that only leaves you $266 to charge your brother in law for building him a box and your labor. That’s a great family discount!
Gear budget.
Cool Brother-in-law
I miss the early 2000s I made so much side money doing systems. I made a dj truck the guy used at beach festivals. It ran on 2 generators and was 10 kilowatts. Used loud horns and 2 massive 4 Kw subs. Eventually it shook the truck apart. Ive always wanted to do another one with modern sound equipment and I would tackle Dolby Atmos surround sound true 5.1 spacial audio with hifi sound.
Just bought some jl audio speakers. I got them in my first car when I was 17 and they were some of the best they offered and the bass bumped. These ones don’t have a location for the tweeters though so it’s just speakers and a radio unit
Sure, I would like to see more on this one. Looks like it will be pretty sweet for using the factory head unit.
Just got a new car excited for a new build!!!!!! 😊😊😊
These speaker selections are a good option for any beginner builders and installation is fairly attainable..but for inexperienced installers I would recommend doing your homework
The 4k budget is total or components only? Because if that's the max budget 4k, you're not factoring labor, materials etc into that 4k. Especially at 3500+ in just system components. I'd love to see a final breakdown for cost on one of these builds for the average customer. A custom box(s) for the subs, and install plus misc wiring and such will be well over that remaining balance on a 4k budget will it not?
I'd guess at least another grand for install labor. The custom box being a good chunk of it and then the dsp setup.
@uome2k7 I'd bet it's a lot more for the average customers install. This is his brother in laws car if I recall correctly. Custom boxes 3d scanned and designed, plus print time? I'd bet there is a few hours of design time, and probably 100+ hours of print time.
Totally agree on this. What he showed, the true cost of that system was upwards of $5000 - $5500, depending on all the little things that weren't mentioned, especially for a first-time system builder (such as myself). The true cost of my system is 3x what I was originally hoping to spend, factoring in some of these things, and so now, I'm having to make choices. Of course, this is NORMAL, but this video is a bit misleading because it doesn't help someone take into account all of these other "hidden costs" of building a car audio system.
Really looking forward to your process of utilizing that 3d scan to create the enclosure.
Very informative video! I've been watching your content for the last couple days now, as I'm currently in the process of replacing all my speakers in my car. My rear speaker blew out due to my iDoing head unit overloading it (despite the off-brand model, the iDoing was apparently still much more powerful than my factory head unit). So I've been researching and went with JBL 621F speakers to replace my original stock speakers in my Crosstrek. I don't play my music that loud, and I'm not really looking for a crazy setup with a ton of bass-- I just want a modest setup (no amp) with better speakers that can handle the iDoing head unit more easily than my stock OEM speakers were able to.
But then I found out that my old speakers were 4 ohms for impedance, and the JBL's I bought were 3 ohms-- *uh oh...* According to a lot of things I read online, that could be a big no-no... Thankfully I haven't actually installed them yet, they arrive tomorrow in the mail. Apparently those particular speakers are higher in sensitivity than other door speakers, so the 3 ohms the JBL's use seem to be balanced out by the sensitivity rating. I've already contacted iDoing support and waiting for their response to see if those speakers will be fine for their head unit, so I've been trying to be careful before I mess up my audio setup.
It's a lot to learn, but I'm also learning a lot from watching your videos, so thanks! :)
I love the detail and quality of work man but to be honest most the systems I have seen you build are A. High end.
High quality.
Very Low in output.
I been doing spl /Sq competitions for years. And 4k can get you a loud system With electrical upgrades. I like JL as much as the next person but other options out there can absolutely crush them in performance per dollar.
Why not reach out to D4S or Skyhigh etc and get some spl grade sponsors.
I really want to see how you would build a spl competition wall ported or 6th order. Something on the order of 15,000+ watts.
You can get a JP43 and a pair of JP234 a dsp and speakers and some subs for 4k and this will nearly rip the trunk lid off
I generally over size my amps by 15-25%.
I find 120-160w rms per channel works well for most mids and Highs.
For daily drivers and still having usable storage. 500-1000 watts rms on 1 or 2 10's in a proper ported box or 3-4 8in under seats for trucks.
It's 2023 every build needs a dsp and active filters (dedicated channel for every woofer tweeter etc)
That's what you see for a good reason... Most people do not want an SPL build, especially to the level you're describing. It's impractical, and a build on that wouldn't provide nearly the same amount of usable information to the majority of the viewership or target audience.
Also just an observation, a lot of folks going for SPL with the equipment mentioned could benefit greatly from stepping back and observing some of the basics
nice, I need to learn a lot about proper and correct car audio installation
Ton of information here on the channel, thanks for tuning in!
@@CarAudioFabrication You're welcome, I hope we all always succeed
I used crutchfield to plan my sound system I think I did a good job
Hey Great video. Can you consider doing a simmilar video for BMW. I have the base stereo no amp. There is so little info on the best way to do this . There is a little bit of a knowlage black hole on the subject .
Thoughts on my setup? I’m going with 2 kicker K65 , 2 K69 and 2 Comp R12s powered by a kicker CX1200 running through an alpine UTE 73BT
****😮 You had me bass.....love you man!
Why don’t you correct the signal straight from the DSP? You could sum and apply filters to flatten the signal from the DSP.
If you go this route you omit one step so you introduce less noise or artifacts.
So I have a 35 year old AM FM radio that came out of an old pickup truck that has been converted to Bluetooth and an aux out but it's an 8 ohm radio system. If i use an audio control lc2i ( because obviously a radio that old did not have RCA jacks)will I damage a Scar RP 600.5 and run 4 ohm speakers? Do i run the risk of burning up anything? I've been told "no worries" and "you'll melt down the car". What say you-Big Wisdom?
Aux in. I have to use the speaker wires to the lc2i pro. I can adjust the level on it so I shouldn't have to worry about ohms. I think 🤔
This guy is helpful
Bro do a part 2 I can't wait to see this instal 💯👍🏽
Looking forward to this! I want to upgrade the sound system in my tacoma. I want to put a sub under the seat
Thanks for the video - I'm looking at the Toyota Crown with ANC. Can you replace the speakers if the car has ANC?
I have a 2021 Hyundai sonata SEL and hopefully this will give me an idea of what to do with mine
I got about $800 on my car, prefabed box for a 12 in and all other speakers are in factory locations. I did have an aftermarket headunit ($350) but that went out so back to stock.
if running a 4 channel amplifier can the passive rca cables be ran to the amp and then also used the front speaker wires from the head unit ? I have 6 speakers and two are under the dash and I'd like to connect the other 4 speakers to the amplifier under the seat. thanks in advance
Thank you so much
So I did the system in my 21 Elantra. I soldered RCA's directly to my front left output wires then ran those into a Kenwood 6006 DSP. I didn't use any lgd's. My system sounds amazing, imo, is that because I'm using a DSP?I definitely want to see this whole build. I had to make my own T harness to be able to integrate into mine.
@@basstech714 thank God! I freaked a little bit because when I did my research I saw nothing about LGD'S! Thought you only needed those on Chrysler cars!!
Hi there,
I have a Bose Premium in my Opel Insignia Sports Tourer which sounds far from premium. Is it possible to produce a video about the conversion of a Bose system? Thanks in advance.
You covered this ages ago. But for time aligment (fully active front end) with a tape measure do you measure to the headrest or something else like your ears. I just find with ears its not quite right. Apreciate any feedback 😊
@@JasonWW2000 cheers for the help. I have allways done it from middle of headrest. Just wondered if there was a better place ( more favoured )
@@JasonWW2000 thanks. Apreciate the info. All seems good as vocals are centred. Just wanted a second opinion to make sure its all good. Will ideally level match them eventually, but allways busy 😂
Grear video thnx man
Man this video was so much fun to watch. Planning an audio system is like being a kid in a candy store 🍭
Love the video, only thing I disagree with is using TW3's. Regular 12W3's would have been more cost effective and would sound 10x better. I get you did it for space, but I feel like you gotta give some of that space up if you want better sound quality. I always try to push people towards a conventional woofer if they have the room for them, to me they've always sounded better than the flat ones. They are very punchy, the bottom end just isn't there.
In my boat, I have a JL audio M 600/1 mono class D 600 watt amp for my two JL audio M3 series 10 inch subs. My question is, am I able to add two more identical JL audio M3 series 10 inch subs to the amp? if so, should I wire them in series or in parallel? What gauge wire should I use?
Thank you
Jeff
I would like to see you do a video on a 2 seater sports car with mid engine mount and no space for subwoofer box unless you get a built compact self amp sub
what is your opinion on the belsee and navirider head units for a 2018 honda accord?
I have a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited hardtop. I am planning a build based on your designs. I was curious if from your experience if a vented box with the subwoofers firing towards the back with the vent in the same size or firing up with the vent firing back? I don't have anything to test with?
Ok, so I'm getting confused on your equation for finding the ohms. I learn best when I'm reading it lol. Is there an article that you could recommend that would explain that?
I have a Lexus SC430, and I am redoing the audio system. I will be changing the head unit, amp, and speakers. My main issue is the shallow 8 inch subwoofer. Most shallow subs don't fit, apparently. My choices seem to be a Polk, Audiofrog, and a Focal. I am leaning more towards the Audiofrog. I'll be running everything through a Rockford Fosgate 5 channel amp. Any input on the sub?
Have you ever done any boat builds? I am looking for upgrades on my new pontoon and all the info on marine speakers are extremely dated.
4k budget in the right car can win shows. that said, bass on a budget for most is 500 and less. i'd love to see what you could do with that.
I have a 2011 Mercedes c350 with the upgraded Harman Kardon stereo they have the 6.5" subs. What would you recommend to get more bass?
Hi there, Mark you really make greats videos. Im trying to upgrade my 2012 audi a4 audio system the 10 speakers mmi model. But crutchfield have practically none advice nor a real speakers recommendations, any help...
question...instead of a component speaker, will factory tweeters still work if i swap out the midbass drivers for coaxial speakers?
Question, what should the setting be on my headunit if im using a bass knob?
for very "selfish" reasons, id love to see u do a build on an early miata (maybe even a "bose-ectomy" by removing the trash bose factory junk) ...& since its a very popular convertible with a very challenging layout, such as limited space, & a weird sized 8" component speaker in the doors, it would prove interesting... always enjoy ur channel, thank u sir
Question... pioneer 4 " TS-A1095S ... How good are they to install 4 in my car ? Do you recommend?
I hope you see this… I have a question, have you ever tried putting speakers in headrest? I would like to do it in my Tacoma. Just for the rear side. As you may know, the door speakers are located at the bottom of the door, there’s no way they can stand out there. Suggestions please!
I have a system all planned out with aftermarket touch screen in dash. What can I do to prevent theft of the head unit?
Hello, if possible, I have one question. For example, I have a passat b6 with a simple audio system, but I am a big fan of sound quality. I'm more interested in more power and heavier sound, but is it possible to get something similar to surround sound or dolby (for music, not movies) with an aftermarket player and amplifiers or by installing more speakers (if possible). Thank you very much for the reply:)
any amps to recommend? i want to upgrade my stock amp. i dont plan on getting subs but if i ever do i think id get a separate amp completely. so to upgrade the stock amp i just want it to power all the speakers. i have a pioneer head unit & kicker speakers around
Yo Yo Mark, question for you. Will a new set of DD or AD subs, give me any flagrant difference from this set of old school Eclipse 7000 dual 2 ohm woofers? Power is plentiful and crispy clean.
So I am already pretty happy with my standard car audio, but if i turn the sound on from 70 procent to max there is not much difference in loudness and especially base, as I think there is no sub in the car, I don't want to be deaf either after listening to it for 15min more like a club kind of vibe in the car, Should a sub box with amp already be enough? Or what do you guys recommend?
What better bridge front speakers or run all 4 speakers
Hi Mark, can you provide us the Audiocontrol application guide document for the LGD? I could not seem to find it anywhere online.
Thanks in advance
in Crutchfield is there a Suzuki swift Rs layout am looking to upgrade my sound.
so my question is door speakers, I wanna run 8 kicker cs 4ohm full range 6.5 door speakers, so will I need 2 four channel amps that run at 4ohm? (this was my plan) or is it better to get one higher power 4 channel amp and bridge the eight down in pairs to a single 4 channel amp.
could I also run 4 off the head unit and run 4 off a single 4 channel amp? I hope im making sense. I understand sub wiring but I never have run amped doors. thank you
Hi Mark !! I have one doubt regarding LC2I pro, does it have the functionality to run two amplifiers at the same time mean full range and bass amplifier together?
If I'm using an after market head unit ( Pioneer DMHW4660NEX) with a powered sub (Pioneer TS-WH500A)... will I need an amp kit or will the head unit power it?
WAIT, why do you need to correct or "deequalize" when using a DSP? Because youre using one, you have the luxury of doing that inside of your DSP equalization, saving the cost. Right?
I dont understand that either. Seems redundant
2nd battery or cap ? 1000w rms witch is better
300w enough for a cs113tg-TW5v2 Amp is non dsp Jl M/700 , fusion apollo 670a , 2002 frontier?
am planning an audio for my honda accord 2005 model sedan,
its
Focal KX3E -3 Way Front
Helix G4 Amps -2Nos,
JL Audio TW3 12inch-1nos,
Helix BT HD Streamer,
Helix DSP3s
So u can tell me ,Did i need ANL Fuse ,if Yes tell me whats the Ampere i Need it,and Whatelse i need to run all these Electronics
Will you be at SEMA?
Lol no. SEMA is useless for the car audio industry. They stick us with Chinese led light manufacturers in an obscure hall of the convention center. Pass
@@CarAudioFabrication we have a booth there this year.
4000! My system is probably 2000 and that’s mostly headunit
I have a Chrysler 300S w/ alpine system that sucks, no subwoofer with it. I'm going with audiocontrol Amp withDSP. I only have 6 speakers. I'm just changing speakers, adding a Amp and subwoofer. What else do I need besides the audiocontrol DM 801
Hola, do you plan on adding a system to an EV vehicle? Or something pertaining to EV’s and upgrades.
I'm considering if i can do it for cheaper than what the dealer charges.
I just don't understand the need for the fix 86, if you're using the DSP as well. It would make more sense if youre only using a line output converter
Feel free to ask JL themselves. Whenever possible they recommend having a flat signal into the DSP amp in order to save processing power on the tuning DSP itself.
I love how car manufacturers charge so much money for a factory 'premium' system that is still garbage in comparison to a proper aftermarket system with DSP tuning. I really wish some manufacturers would have a proper tuned, DSP-ran OEM system, they definitely have the ability to do so, but the bean counters seem to control or constrain most of the decision making. Even my wife's 'Premium' Bang&Olufsen system in the Q5 is disappointing in comparison to my simple 2-way front active + rear filler system I built for my golf.
Followed yo on insta for a long time, and really enjoy your fabrication skills! With your knowledge, I'd really like to see how you'd plan a system for a small work van! Many of us out here spend far too much time listening to road noise in old terrible vans like a Transit Connect, or in my case a Caddy. The dash is hard rattling plastic, there's limited space for subs. Maybe a 6x9" or 8" in the cavity behind each seat? There's also plenty of exposed metal etc. How would you go about planning noise reduction and audio for something like this, that obviously isn't an expensive enough car to warrant a big investment?
Funnily enough I stumbled across the channel as I’m currently trying to figure out how I’m going to set up my transit connect
I need help, I got a phoenix gold rx 2 500 amp with power bass 12”subs, first time getting a sub and amp, and I want my bass to actually hit. I keep seeing videos, yeah they explain the frequencies, gain, sound, etc. but what I’m looking for when tuning is what do I need to turn and adjust for more BASS, idc about the sound, distortion, loudness, etc (I’ll adjust the sound and distortion after I get it how I want it) but my main goal is BASS. Do I need to upgrade my amp to get more bass? Play with the knobs? Or should I get new subs and amp??
This is alot more complex than i had anticipated. I just want to update my 06 tundra. Installed an aftermarket kenwood head unit and have an alpine pwe-s8 on the way i got on sale for $210. I was hoping i could replace the 4 door speakers and 2 tweeters for under $300. Am i being unrealistic?
I got Rockford Fosgates for $250, all four, and they are very entry speakers. The tweters, were another $100, also entry level tweeters, Skar Audio front, Pioneer rear.
Would this apply to a bmw? I have a 2011 535i with the standard hi/fi system. How would i go about planning a system that wouldnt require a lot a fabrication?
There are a couple companies that offer a system for about $2500 but don't give any specs on the power rating for the "upgrade"
i dont get if that amplifier handle 75x4 he gone to add 15 extra watts per mid bass. but what happen with twitters? how many watts does they need? or those 15 extra watts goes to the twitters? sorry for my bad english
If you have too much power coming from the amplifier, you turn down the gain way down and slowly raise it. When you start hearing distortion, you turn it back down a little bit so it stops. The gain cuts the power back until the speaker can handle it.
What 3.5 speakers would you recommend for my 3 way system. Have full jl audio c7s having a problem getting 3.5 c7s what can I use to replace them?
@baldylocc64
It shows that the *JL Audio C7-350cm* 3.5" midrange speakers are currently "IN STOCK" at Crutchfield right now so you shouldn't have a problem getting them!
I need help too get wiring for my set up doing a voice amp and sub amp also epic center
250 is out of my range. Looking for about 75 to 110
So I'm if I get any after-market head unit I won't need to worry about factory problems such as getting a audio control like the AC-LGD or a FIX processor? If anyone has more information or suggestions for after market head units please let me know