Maybe a dumb question but how do I adjust the handbrake wire for each wheel indivudually or is there always equal tension on the wires going to the brakes?
Hi there ThaMADDonutz. Don't ever be afraid to ask - no such thing as a dumb question. Only dumb answers. When you don't know, you don't know and you learn by asking. It's individual cables to each brake. No balance mechanism, so as long as the cables are in good condition the balance should be within tolerance. MoT has no balance req'ment on handbrake balance (unless one side doesn't work at all). If you've got a balance issue you'll have to remove the console and shim the cable nipple where it engages.
@@CycloneCyd Not sure since I don't live in a country with english as an offical language but I think it is short for emegency brake. I live in sweden where we call it hand brake or parking brake. Translated of course.
@@ThaMADDonutz Yeah. It turns out it is emergency brake. Seems to be an American idiom. It seems to date from roughly post war years when brakes were less reliable than now and drivers needed to know how to use the emergency brake. Every day is a skool day lol 😀
Top video, thanks for posting. Just done the adjustment on my 2008 9-3 ttid aero and worked a treat. Please now post a video on how to acess removing the dpf and delete the egr by only lowering the ash tray!!!
Yeah, that's been my style since the start. Too many other videos padded out with waffle just to get them over 10 minutes. I firmly believe in the KISS principle: Keep It Simple Stoopid !! Welcome aboard.
Hi there! Thanks for your videos! I've recently bought a 2003 9-3 vector, so your videos come in handy! My current blocking issue is that the handbrake lever is completely stuck with the brakes locked. The small button on the lever is no good. The lever now sits on the last crank. I've tried unbolting the adjustment bolt. Even if the spacing around is very tight a 13mm spanner can be fit and turned with the lever up. The bolt is now kind of turning freely after multiple turns, but the lever is still locked and can't be dropped. Would you have any advise except unbolting the center console? Have you ever disassembled just the lever itself?
Cheers for the video mate, were on about this job to the lads at work only last week. As you said I thought centre console had to come out as well. Thanks for the video, GREAT TIMING..👍👏
Hi Cyd Thanks for your clip for setting the handbrake. I'm a little puzzled after reading your reply to a comment from Whit. I just replaced vented rear discs (thanks for clip) and brand new calipers. Handbrake was off. Piston all the way back (new). I bled brakes and used the foot brake to take up the slack in piston contact. I notice you mentioned using the hadbrake to "set" the pads. Please calrify. I admit I didn't check the action of the handbrake as the back brakes were seized solid, just changed it all. Also found spongy brakes after bleeding 250ml Dot4 through each side (could have been pre-existing, again didn't check that, perhaps I can search for tips on another thread about this). Really would value your advice before I mess with the handbrake adjuster. Best wishes, great video's, Dave.
Hi Dave, defo set the pads with the footbrake before operating the handbrake. Then adjust the handbrake as necessary. If still feeling spongy, then must still have air in. Have you bled the fronts too, that could be where the problem is. Only open bleed nipple 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Put a few drops of brake fluid around the nipple threads to stop air being sucked back in. I'd also suggest the use of a one man bleed kit like this one: amzn.to/2rYX9eL Do let us know how you get on
Thank you, i was waiting for weeks to have and appointmemt in the garage, im in another country and i have no tools with me, but now i see that i dont need elevator or remove wheel etc... damn it, i shpuld have seen thia video before! XD thanks!
Thanks for the video Cyd, very helpful! I have a question... The handbrake cover on our Saab 9-3 was broken when at the hand carwash and I need to replace it. Have found the part online, is it an easy job for a practical person?
hey, i changed both wires and the brake caliper behind them was worn and the hand brake did not take on the right rear. My handbrake still does not take on the right rear, although everything is new. Any suggestions?
My saab has the grip and button in bits its just a metal tobe with a wire hanging out of the end i put it back together but its not releasing i have to pull the wire then it releases
Overall it's easy enough, but where the handbrake cable meets the caliper, you have two different metals (steel and zinc) and the cable ferrule "welds" into the bracket which is part of the caliper casting. I had to cut the casting to get mine out, but I'd bought new calipers - if I'd bought recon'd with a return surcharge, that would have been my surcharge gone!! That's about the only part of the job I haven't covered in video yet, because it's basically the same process as changing the pads. Does my explanation make sense?
Yeah thanks exact problem I have as well so you cut the caliper I tried with wd40 but nothing I've also been told try heat?? If not I'll have to cut it! Thanks Cyd👍
@@silkyg3400 you could so easily damage the plastic components of the cable with heat, so I wouldn't if you're reusing the cable. If you're replacing the cable anyway, go for it. Do let us know what works and how you get on. Thanks
the handbrake mechanism is quite a complex affair on these. You have to get the centre console out to get at it. It might be a little while before I can do this. Is there a rush?
My hand brake cable under the lever is completely cut and I had to tie a wire under the console to lower and raise the handbrake.. Im still n9t sure what is the part that I need to fix it.. its the cable inside the rubber handle.
@@CycloneCyd Inside the rubber parking lever (12802419). There is a a thin wire seam with a horizontaly aligned barrel that connects the parking lever.
I just replaced my rear rotors and pads and ever since my hand brake has to go ALL the way up. And even then it may roll when at incline. I do NOT remember any cables on the calipers popping out. I drive a manual so would like to resolve. Will this procedure fix this?
Hi Whit, thanks for watching and interacting. Did you wind the pistons back in all the way (with a wind back tool)? Did you use the handbrake to 'set' the pads before operating the footbrake? Was the handbrake lever 'off' at all times whilst changing? I would suggest repeating the process: 1. wind both pistons all the way in 2. keep handbrake off 3. make sure handbrake lever is all the way off at each caliper 4. set pads with footbrake first (engine off), press HARD once firm. I can't imagine you've done this: but, you didn't fit solid discs when it should have vented??
1.) Put car in gear and let go of ebrake. With caliper removed, prior to adding new pads, removed brake fluid cap and used a brake piston pressing kit to push piston into rest position. 2. First attempt was botched as car calls for 10" single layer rotors and kit ordered was the 11" dual layer rotors wouldn't fit, had to put together and spend 12 long days RMA and get correct 10" rotors. The 10" fit snug.
@@Whit_Siever "used a brake piston pressing kit to push piston into rest position" That's where you went wrong. With rear brakes that have integral handbrake (most) you MUST wind the piston back in, NOT push it. ua-cam.com/video/I2bjrobr1T4/v-deo.html
Lol..... Lucky Norwegians Here in the UK, unless its a garage you know and trust, garage's will charge as much as possible for the least amount of work. Lot of garages won't even have done the work they charge for in some cases. Life in the uk..... Can't beat it lol
Maybe a dumb question but how do I adjust the handbrake wire for each wheel indivudually or is there always equal tension on the wires going to the brakes?
Hi there ThaMADDonutz. Don't ever be afraid to ask - no such thing as a dumb question. Only dumb answers. When you don't know, you don't know and you learn by asking.
It's individual cables to each brake. No balance mechanism, so as long as the cables are in good condition the balance should be within tolerance. MoT has no balance req'ment on handbrake balance (unless one side doesn't work at all).
If you've got a balance issue you'll have to remove the console and shim the cable nipple where it engages.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks for the help. This video came just in time I found out I had an issue with the e brake yesterday :)
@@ThaMADDonutz now you can help me. Why do people call it e brake? What's the e for?
@@CycloneCyd Not sure since I don't live in a country with english as an offical language but I think it is short for emegency brake. I live in sweden where we call it hand brake or parking brake. Translated of course.
@@ThaMADDonutz Yeah. It turns out it is emergency brake. Seems to be an American idiom. It seems to date from roughly post war years when brakes were less reliable than now and drivers needed to know how to use the emergency brake. Every day is a skool day lol 😀
You are the best man to show everything about fixing your Saab 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. So easy to understand and good videos
Thanks Jan-Erik. Nice of you to say.
Top video, thanks for posting. Just done the adjustment on my 2008 9-3 ttid aero and worked a treat. Please now post a video on how to acess removing the dpf and delete the egr by only lowering the ash tray!!!
did my 2005 Aero convertible today - just had new pads - easy had to adjust so held on four clicks - thanks for video
thanks again for the helpful video. short question, short answer. no big fuzz, just great! thanks a lot and keep posting videos!
Cheers mate. Quick concise no nonsense video. New rear discs/pads fitted and will be keeping an eye on the adjustment whilst pads bed in...🤘🤘
Very helpful I thought it was self adjusting until I changed the pads👍
Yeah, not exactly obvious is it?
Thanks for the detailed tutorial, I've used a 14mm t rod to adjust the hand brake and worked fine. Sorry I don't have 13mm socket at hand.
Here to save the day again. Thank you for these helpful videos 👍🏼
Simple and straight to the point video, helped me a lot :)
Yeah, that's been my style since the start. Too many other videos padded out with waffle just to get them over 10 minutes. I firmly believe in the KISS principle: Keep It Simple Stoopid !! Welcome aboard.
Thanks for a very helpful video. Going out to adjust my daughters handbrake now.
No problem 👍
Hi there! Thanks for your videos! I've recently bought a 2003 9-3 vector, so your videos come in handy!
My current blocking issue is that the handbrake lever is completely stuck with the brakes locked. The small button on the lever is no good. The lever now sits on the last crank. I've tried unbolting the adjustment bolt. Even if the spacing around is very tight a 13mm spanner can be fit and turned with the lever up. The bolt is now kind of turning freely after multiple turns, but the lever is still locked and can't be dropped.
Would you have any advise except unbolting the center console? Have you ever disassembled just the lever itself?
Thanks Cyd, most helpful. Might even get rid of the phone cradle in the process!
Thanks George, yeah I did the same, mine had a phone cradle in their too.
Exactly what I was needing, thanks for the video, very useful. Liked & subscribed 😀
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks Cyd my hand brake is 8 clicks high far too many for my liking, I can adjust it myself now
Great job. It's real easy, you just have to know where the adjuster is, lol
@@CycloneCyd do you know much about the saab CD player
Awesome Video my Friend!
Thank you very much!
Thanks I think I need to change rear calipher,it's binding and squealing damaging my fairly new disc
Cheers for the video mate, were on about this job to the lads at work only last week. As you said I thought centre console had to come out as well. Thanks for the video, GREAT TIMING..👍👏
Thanks Steve. Share with your workmates? lol
Thank you so much, saved me money and time 🙂👍
Great to hear!
Awesome, it worked
Thanks a bunch!
You're welcome!
Excellent. Easy Peasy! Thank you. 👍😎
Hi Cyd
Thanks for your clip for setting the handbrake. I'm a little puzzled after reading your reply to a comment from Whit.
I just replaced vented rear discs (thanks for clip) and brand new calipers. Handbrake was off. Piston all the way back (new). I bled brakes and used the foot brake to take up the slack in piston contact. I notice you mentioned using the hadbrake to "set" the pads. Please calrify. I admit I didn't check the action of the handbrake as the back brakes were seized solid, just changed it all. Also found spongy brakes after bleeding 250ml Dot4 through each side (could have been pre-existing, again didn't check that, perhaps I can search for tips on another thread about this).
Really would value your advice before I mess with the handbrake adjuster.
Best wishes, great video's, Dave.
Hi Dave, defo set the pads with the footbrake before operating the handbrake. Then adjust the handbrake as necessary.
If still feeling spongy, then must still have air in. Have you bled the fronts too, that could be where the problem is. Only open bleed nipple 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Put a few drops of brake fluid around the nipple threads to stop air being sucked back in. I'd also suggest the use of a one man bleed kit like this one: amzn.to/2rYX9eL
Do let us know how you get on
You're great! Thanks for all of your help!
Happy to help!
U are great. Thank U from Sweden
Thank you, i was waiting for weeks to have and appointmemt in the garage, im in another country and i have no tools with me, but now i see that i dont need elevator or remove wheel etc... damn it, i shpuld have seen thia video before! XD thanks!
Thanks for the video Cyd, very helpful! I have a question... The handbrake cover on our Saab 9-3 was broken when at the hand carwash and I need to replace it. Have found the part online, is it an easy job for a practical person?
Handbrake cover? Which bit is that? Can you post the link so I can see what it is, please?
Hey, how can i replace the cover(plaatic part) from handbrake? Is there any way?
hey, i changed both wires and the brake caliper behind them was worn and the hand brake did not take on the right rear. My handbrake still does not take on the right rear, although everything is new. Any suggestions?
Hi Sebastian, was the caliper piston wound all the way back in? Did you push the piston back out using the footbrake pedal and not the handbrake?
Thanks a lot for alls videos 🇸🇪
My saab has the grip and button in bits its just a metal tobe with a wire hanging out of the end i put it back together but its not releasing i have to pull the wire then it releases
Great tip! Many thanks!
You're welcome!
Brilliant as ever 👌
Thank you cyclone❤️
Welcome aboard
I adjusted mine a bunch and it still doesn’t work, does that mean I probably need to replace the pads?
Thamk you ,great advice and vide6.
My pleasure! 👍
Thumbs up, but be careful with those knees on the seats, the heater mat don't like that very much.
That's handy information to have thanks,I may have to change my cable are they easy to do at home do you know?
Overall it's easy enough, but where the handbrake cable meets the caliper, you have two different metals (steel and zinc) and the cable ferrule "welds" into the bracket which is part of the caliper casting. I had to cut the casting to get mine out, but I'd bought new calipers - if I'd bought recon'd with a return surcharge, that would have been my surcharge gone!!
That's about the only part of the job I haven't covered in video yet, because it's basically the same process as changing the pads.
Does my explanation make sense?
And yes you will need to slacken the cable tension as shown here
Yeah thanks exact problem I have as well so you cut the caliper I tried with wd40 but nothing I've also been told try heat?? If not I'll have to cut it! Thanks Cyd👍
@@silkyg3400 you could so easily damage the plastic components of the cable with heat, so I wouldn't if you're reusing the cable. If you're replacing the cable anyway, go for it.
Do let us know what works and how you get on. Thanks
On mine there’s a piece of plastic that’s part of the cover inside the centre console that sticks out and gets in the way of the socket.
Don't forget. Foot on brake and release hand brake to roll the adjuster forward, otherwise you won't be able to attach the socket.
Yes, quite true. Lever down to access the adjuster. Thanks David.
@@CycloneCyd thanks for the video. Fixed my hand brake in 2mins this morning. Cheers
Great video, can you please show also how to change the handle also please? Cheers..
the handbrake mechanism is quite a complex affair on these. You have to get the centre console out to get at it. It might be a little while before I can do this. Is there a rush?
@@CycloneCyd no rush at all, I will keep watching anyways so I can catch it up later then.. cheers..
My hand brake cable under the lever is completely cut and I had to tie a wire under the console to lower and raise the handbrake.. Im still n9t sure what is the part that I need to fix it.. its the cable inside the rubber handle.
What cable inside the handle? It's a large die cast part.
@@CycloneCyd Inside the rubber parking lever (12802419). There is a a thin wire seam with a horizontaly aligned barrel that connects the parking lever.
I just replaced my rear rotors and pads and ever since my hand brake has to go ALL the way up. And even then it may roll when at incline. I do NOT remember any cables on the calipers popping out. I drive a manual so would like to resolve.
Will this procedure fix this?
Hi Whit, thanks for watching and interacting. Did you wind the pistons back in all the way (with a wind back tool)? Did you use the handbrake to 'set' the pads before operating the footbrake? Was the handbrake lever 'off' at all times whilst changing?
I would suggest repeating the process: 1. wind both pistons all the way in 2. keep handbrake off 3. make sure handbrake lever is all the way off at each caliper 4. set pads with footbrake first (engine off), press HARD once firm.
I can't imagine you've done this: but, you didn't fit solid discs when it should have vented??
1.) Put car in gear and let go of ebrake. With caliper removed, prior to adding new pads, removed brake fluid cap and used a brake piston pressing kit to push piston into rest position.
2. First attempt was botched as car calls for 10" single layer rotors and kit ordered was the 11" dual layer rotors wouldn't fit, had to put together and spend 12 long days RMA and get correct 10" rotors. The 10" fit snug.
@@Whit_Siever "used a brake piston pressing kit to push piston into rest position"
That's where you went wrong. With rear brakes that have integral handbrake (most) you MUST wind the piston back in, NOT push it.
ua-cam.com/video/I2bjrobr1T4/v-deo.html
Thanks mate 👍
No problem 👍
Ай спасибо добрый человек 👍
Excellent job!
Thanks so much for the video! Definitely helped me out 😁😁😁😁👍👍👍👍🤗
Welcome aboard, David. Glad you got value from the video
Thank you
You're welcome
nice,mine is loose and goes all the way up.i guess this is the solution.
Thanks for this
Nice job, however, a garage would never charge an hour for that job! Much less… 15 minutes more likely, which in Norway is 25gbp
Lol..... Lucky Norwegians
Here in the UK, unless its a garage you know and trust, garage's will charge as much as possible for the least amount of work.
Lot of garages won't even have done the work they charge for in some cases.
Life in the uk..... Can't beat it lol
Thanks :)
No problem!
Thanks
Welcome
Thank you.
seems it doesnt work the same on my saab 9-3 aero from 01:=(
No, it wouldn't be. This is the 9-3SS from 03MY on.
It should work. This technique worked on my saab 9-3 aero convertible
Thanks