F*** you thumbs downers everyone! this video is one to try to help you get the best sound out of your f****** guitar and if you don't like it go f*** yourself!
Ok criticism is not need, he just gets really excited about his guitars, he's just passionate, cut the man some slack. He has some great tips and life knowledge on guitars . You go Randy
this dude is cool af. Haha I agree with everything this man said seriously and actually he is quite specific and spot on about getting your accoustic guitar's bass mid and treble to its full potential. or to what you may want more and less of.
Randy thanks for the tip on the Mitchell Platemate I just ordered mine 2 5/32nds...straight from there site. It’s going on my Martin D-28, they didn’t have this size already made up, but they ask you to write down the size to be made special, so I did exactly that, and I’m now waiting...the total cost with shipping was $23 and change. Thanks again Randy! God Bless your heart! Respectfully, Jeff Mercer Mentor Ohio
Great vid as always Randy. Plate really makes a huge difference - I did install one in one of my acoustics (a mid range Takamine ) and it souds great. I am so looking forward to the little Martin!... I wish I would live closer to all of you so I could participate in your activities... Take care and Happy New Year, Master!
+Cesar Blues Guitar They do make a big difference in sound and protect the bridge plate very well. Thanks for checking it out Cesar. I wish you lived closer too! If you're ever in the states we should hook up!
Hey, Mr. Randy! Just wanted to drop a comment to let you know how much I appreciate you and this video! I just discovered this one today and your tips have been a huge help. I've been playing for well over 30 years and I even learned new things today. I just subscribed and will most certainly keep tabs on your fine work! Thank you, Good Brother!
Thanks alot for the tips. I have fumbled my way through a few of these over the years, and it has really amazed me what huge differences can come from a few little "upgrades". As I get older, I'm having my own issues with health (arthritis). Really makes me grateful to still be able play. l very much enjoyed your video, keep 'em coming!
+Frank Huizar Thanks for your support Frank and commenting, I can relate to the getting old in many ways! :) Yes upgrades make an amazing change and if you keep your old hardware and don't like the changes you can always go back to the original state. Thanks again for watching!
Hi Randy,Pete here ,recently subscribed to your channel and quite impresed with your technik,and love the Q-ball.and your playing and picking are right on.Happy new year!!
+blkjckgtrnut Welcome aboard Pete, and thank you for subscribing! We have a lot of laughs and fun here, hopefully you'll find something along the way that helps. Happy New Year to you as well!
Tusq is a decent product in terms of its density but it's horrible stuff to work with i.e. cutting/filing the stuff is messy as it melts due the friction induced on a cut which messes your files up pretty quickly. Bone or ivory are materials which are much kinder to the cutting tools and you can be much more precise on cutting,filing and finishing. You also don't need shorter posts on your tuners to get better downward force. I always cut the excess off my strings before I wind them. I wind them to the bottom of the post with no overlaps just a clean coil wind down the post.
I love how you thoroughly explain what you've learned over time and how you encourage people to learn to try things and listen to their instruments. I like to buy used instruments for cheap and try to make them playable again, your video gave me a lot of Ideas how to improve with some playful modding experiments as well as Maintenance of current guitars. Thank you!
Humble suggestion; rather than replacing tuners for ones with shorter pegs, take the pegs you have, and use a bit more string to wind them all the way down close to the face of the headstock, it ups the break angle across the nut (desired effect) and requires no hardware change. If you have good tuners, keep 'em, just wind the strings all the way down the peg by using a bit more string. This method gets you to the same place for free. Also, there are some videos out there of the Martin factory showing their employees scalloping braces... holy hell, I doubt anyone does it better. Even if just a regular production model, not Custom Shop or anything, you can bet factory scalloped braces from Martin were done right. No need for that upgrade if you get the right guitar, but if you do want to scallop them... yeah, make sure someone who knows what they are doing does it. This is not a place for amateurs to play around.
I have a 2009 hd28 and it had a tusk saddle in it. for whatever reason it sounded too bright but over time the bass got boomier and the bottom end sustained more. I met a man at a jam out in the country who had a 1952 d28 and he had 2 piano key veneers glued together and compensated sunk in his saddle. You couldnt tell by looking at it. It looked just like white bone. I've never heard a guitar ring that way in my life so I had to try it and that's what I have in mine now. It don't just boom like the tusk saddle which is great if that's what you like but it projects and is more even. Old ivory piano key veneers. Call me crazy.
I saw a documentary once about a sand spider that used tiny pieces of flawless quartz to attatch it's web to,because the quartz transmits the smallest vibrations along the web strands.Of course to make a flawless quartz saddle and nut,you would need to get it done by a skilled stone cutter.I'm not sure how you could give the precise measurements to him but boy oh boy that would be one amazing set up................
This is a Gibson Hummingbird Custom approximately 70's model, unbelievable sustain. The Copper gave it a tone like Cheryl Crow's Hummingbird. It gave it a bright tone not heavy bass, even with Martin 80/20 Lifespan. 013 - 056 Medium strings attached. Electronic tuner tunes to pitch OK guitar I call it like a piano bell tone, if that makes sense to you. And like I said the sustain really last!
Dear Randy: Back when I was a younger man, and immature musically, I bought a wonderful and powerful Taylor 810 this instrument has a tremendous presence with sweet overtones, a strong mid-range and trebles that ring like a bell. To some and to me 32 years ago years this was an ideal instrument, it is loud enough that others in a jam want to look for a place to plug in, I have changed in my tastes enough that I want the instrument to be a PART of the sound, not the whole banana. Here's what I have done to the guitar to date: Removed all electronics including the strap/jack which I replaced with a No-jack Ebony pin, I replaced the nut and the saddle with bone and compensated the saddle I also lowered the action to a little over 3/32 at the 12th, I experimented with strings settling on GHS Vintage Bronze mediums 85-15, this change helped to reduce that tremendous presence and sweetened even more the overtones in all the range of the instrument. It is OK now in jams if I am very careful with my attack. Here's what I have planned next, I'm going to change out the nut and the saddle for genuine elephant Ivory, don't ask where I got it. I'm going to retain the Ebony Bridge pins (when I changed to bone, the difference was so small I had been unable to tell the difference, I think the original Ebony pins were slightly better) I have already converted to the Ebony end pin, and added an Ebony strap pin to the side of the heel on the neck. Will this good Ivory smooth out the punch and presence of the guitar or should I save the Ivory for it's replacement, I have my eye on an early Southern Jumbo that I really like. Oh yes, I'm going to replace those butt ugly Grover Rotomatics,the Rotomatics work well, but they are showing signs of internal wear and all the Gold is now rubbed off; the Waverleys will be Gold with Ebony knobs. Will these changes sweeten and tame this powerful guitar, or should I be trying to make a deal for the Southern Jumbo? The Gibson needs minor maintenance work and the old Kluson tuners are still in good shape, it mostly is just real dirty, the owner says no work has been done on it at all, it is just as it came from the factory, and has had only 6 string changes in it's long life, it has little wear, no grooves in the original frets, and has it's original case in great shape, only a slight dome behind the bridge, and the grotty nature of the guitar show any age the Owner is talking about a straight across trade with a little cash to boot. Help!
I already upgraded my Epiphone Hummingbird with Tusq saddle and nut and ebony bridge pins which turned a £180 guitar into something really exceptional. I'd like to try the platemate but with import duty and admin fees it would double the price.Incidentally I upgraded my tele copy made from a kit with Tusq nut which improved it. I then spotted the Tusq string trees which I bought and fitted and this really lifted it from mediocrity to a very useable work horse. I'd like to try the Tusq individual saddles for electric guitars on it but they really are a bit expensive. Anyway, good advice from a good video, thanks.
Randy thank you for sharing all this. I'm a Memphis player 50+yr . It's great to watch you explain this stuff like you do buddy, we could have grown up in the same neighborhood. Haha 😁
“Now y’all concentrate on the flatness” -Randy’s eyes 😳 F***kin hilarious! Guy is cool as hell. Awesome videos man. Personally I set my Martin up for all BONE TONE. It’s a all Sapele body so it naturally has tons of low end, balanced mids, and scooped highs. I wanted more volume and a touch more high end brightness and the BONE delivers this in spades! Hey Randy, I wanna know something? Would you carve up some deer antler sheds for a nut and saddle and try them out on a video? Curious what that would do.
Good word my man! Stuff I never thought of. I've got a cheap ($250) Mitchell that I've had for many years and I've always loved it's tone compared to more pricey guitars. I used to work at the Taylor factory in El Cajon CA and this cheapo sounds ALMOST as nice. Maybe your recommendations will take it to a new level. Thanks again :)
I know what you mean I've owned some cheaper guitars that just blew my high end ones away I couldn't believe it! No doubt all or even a few of these things done to your guitar will really wake her up. Thanks for viewing mate! Much appreciated! :)
I plan to replace my bridge and nut per your recommendation ... The bridge plate is a great idea also. Wouldn't even consider shaving any wood! haha. Wouldn't know where to stop. FYI, back in he late 90's Taylor gave out three sets of Elixer's to their employees every month.
Randy I love your videos and advice. I don't have any high end all solid wood guitars , I did in the 60's . I have a 2004 Seagull parlor and it has the tusq saddle and nut. I have an Epiphone EL-00 pro and it has plastic or what they call imitation bone and it seems ok for now got it in 2014. I decided to get other Parlor size which is what I prefer to play these days and not having the funds bought a Fender CP-60S . The first one i got had lousy marker dots and they exchanged it for another . The issue is Fender seems to use plastic saddles that are not consistent in thickness . I don't recall the 1st one's fit yet this one the saddle is .113" thick and the slot is .125" wide and leans lowering the action and the high E is already cutting into the crappy saddle. The online store I bought it from is sending new strings and a Tusq saddle . I made a few radius gauges and found Seagull states all their guitars have a 16" radius board and saddle . I checked mine and the saddle and board are a 12" radius . Graph tech does not offer what radius most saddles are . Turns out The online store I bought this guitar from is sending me this saddle and thee Fender is a 12" radius and thick enough to require a bit of sanding to get a good fit plus raise the action since it's to low . On my seagull the top no matter how much I tried to humidify it didn't change enough and the action is a bit high . I can only take off a bit without the saddle ending up to low . I took your advice and had the strings loose and backed off the truss rod to know it was free and then reduced the relief from .012" to .004" and it was just enough to lower the action in the center so it is easier to play . Seagull states .012" relief , I found the dual action truss rod was backed off or in the neutral state and read most are. I did three CW 1/8 turns tuned it up and it took out most of the relief then detuned and went another 1/8 CW turn hoping for a straight neck . I checked it with a straight edge slacked off strings and it had a bit of back bow yet once I tuned it up it ended up with .004" . I left it there . I only hoped for a straight neck so I could back it off to find the relief that worked best . I imagine another 1/8 CW turn would have given me a straight neck under string tension I just didn't want to go to far.
Great tips for upgrading Randy. I have heard good things about Tusq so I just ordered some Tusq bridge pins to replace some old plastic ones just to see if that alone improves the sound. It’s probably the least expensive out of the suggestions you gave for upgrading. BTW…I am a huge Bela Fleck fan (and Victor Wooten too).
+Dale Palmer Every piece of tusq I've installed on my own guitars I have kept and never went back, I've installed tusq (from bone) saddles in guitars for people and it made quite a big change in the overall sound and as far as I know none of them have ever went back to what they were using before, it's definitely a good thing. Thanks for checking out the video Dale! Bela is a cool dude and so it Victor! Unbelievable musicians!
Awesome video! Going to take my acoustic to someone to get set up a little better. Got a Fender FA-125CE when I wasn’t sure if I was going to really stick with playing. A little over a year later I’m hooked but want to upgrade that thing before I buy a really nice acoustic. It’s a decent practice guitar that I wouldn’t mind taking camping. Appreciate the great insight!
I have a Yamaha LL6, many years ago after I purchased my guitar I immediately added a Tusk nut, bridge and a Plate Mate. Very satisfying. Now I need to decide which pins and string would work best. Thank you for the excellent, commons sense videos.
Well Randy you inspired me to put a bone nut in my Gretsch jim dandy and have just ordered one and am looking forward to it arriving . I just had a bone nut put in my Yamaha 365s that I have had for 43 years and it sounds assume. Thanks for the tips and keep them coming bud.🤩👍
omg the ownerless guitar ideah. a free for all improvement session for a community guitar, love that ideah damn. one of these days when I get more tools I will be creating all this stuff from scratch. then u would get a good overall community guitar playable for everyone haha genius. I really like this video.
I just tried a back foot bone from a big Buck for a saddle and nut after reading about it on one of the discussion groups. The bone is very hard and dense and sounds like glass when you tap it on a hard surface. Split it in two lengthwise, scrape out the marrow and scrub it clean with Dawn dishwashing detergent. Let it dry and don't cook it. Be sure to wear a dust mask when you are cutting and shaping it.
+Mark Fogleman That's good info you posted, thanks for sharing it with us. I've used deer antler but never tried or even thought of foot bone, I'll have to try this on one of my guitars, it may even be better than antlers. Thanks again for the idea and for tuning in.
I have a tusk nut and saddle, I had a friend that had some he used for jewelry. I didn't ask where he got them, I think was walrus. I had to carve them myself with his help. And they did make the guitar sound a lot brighter. I was real happy with the results.
I recently put a tusque saddle on a acoustic bass for a guy he loves the sound I did to will slowly put them on all my acoustics if I ever have the time
Hey Randy! I'm late to the party but I did find your channel today and of course I subscribed! I like all of the tips that you showed but I guess I'm an old guy because I don't think you need shorter tuning pegs. I just make sure that my string wraps go downward and the strings end up on the lower part of the post anyway. I know that manufacturers are making locking tuners these days but I guess I'm old and don't mind throwing some extra wraps around the post. If you take the time to make sure that the strings are laying downwards you won't have any trouble with the strings once you get them set. Looking forward to going through the years of videos you have!
I have a 1970's FG-140 that has been played hard. Changed nut, saddle and pins to bone. A friend gave me a set of Tony Rice strings. My guitar loves them.
+J Lane Blueridge guitars are really good guitars especially for the money, and built very well too. If those strings were the Martin Monel that Tony uses I bet your guitar did like them a lot. Thanks for stopping in and commenting!
+Randy Schartiger ...Blueridge? Did you not mean Yamaha? My FG is an old red label. I am sure you were thinking Y and typed B. They are Monel and they last a lot longer for me. Great info. Thanks
J Lane Yamaha yes! lol I've got B on my mind I guess. Those Monel strings are hard to beat, they're the only string I like right out of the package, others takes at least 24 hours to start sounding like them, and most never do.
Thank you man for showing me how to do this, as for the thumb downers, get a life, this guy is simply trying to help you if you have nothing good to say say and do nothing
My favourite youtuber here! Just providing free content that is not found anywhere else on here so yall dont go around being nasty as hes the only guy who has actually gone outta his way to provide a tutorial for yall! Ive done a few of these mods and boy they have made my dreadnaught otherworldly
He is referring to the many tusks available in the world from walrus,mammoth tusks that are found in the far north. As the ice melts the tusks are showing up all over.Most dealers have a cites permit so you can send guitars that may have banned items like Ivory. Yes ,a company named tusq also sells saddle material. I have used D'addario strings for 45 years . They sound the best on all my Acoustics. The ramp angle into the string holes on the bridge is not always correct. You can use a small thin file and increase the ramp angle. If any of the string wrapping shows at the saddle it needs to be fixed. If you play a single not on each string fretted at any point then play an open string you may hear a difference. If it sounds better fretted then the nut has a problem and needs to be filed correctly. If it it sounds bad or not really clear fretted then the saddle needs work. The fulcrum on the saddle or nut is SO important for intonation and tone. I use a 10x Jewelers loop to look at each fulcrum( The place where the string goes over the saddle or nut) Learn intonation. If your guitar does not have the exact same setting as an open string,fretted at the 12th fret and harmonics. All 3 should be the same on an electronic tuner. Electrics just need adjustments to the saddles. Acoustics are much more diffacult and you should let a pro do it.. Thanks Steve musicalinstruments63@gmail.com
I have a Laravee D-03R guitar. This is the quote from the manufacturer concerning the Mitchell Platemate. 12/22/2018 "Please be mindful when using gimmicks such as the platemate. They can inhibit maximum tonal transfer from string vibration to the soundboard. Larrivée also recommends bone for highest quality and lasting performance."What is your opinion.
02-24-18: Randy, coming back around and looking through some of your classic videos..... "Re-learning" what I had forgotten about taking care of my own guitars thanks to you and your dedicated teaching. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge my friend.... While I'm here, I am "feeding the Trollups".... or are they Trolls..... I like "Trollups" better. ;)
trollups fit them quiet well lol many thanks Mike for checking out my older videos, people ask me a LOT of question on things I have videos already up about and I usually tell them if they'll look thru my past videos or search my channel there's a good chance they;ll find a video that'll help them. thanks again!
Randy I added Mitchel's Platemate that you suggested in this video to my Epiphone IB Texan and it was a very nice improvement. I was surprised how gouged up my bridge plate was, for as little as the guitar was used. I had a number of misc splinters of wood that I peeled off the bridge plate. My pins sit nice and flat now vs being a bit crooked prior to installing the plate. I also added a custom designed bone saddle to it (as well) made by Hoffman Guitars. Thanks for the great tips...
Very cool to hear! I'm glad you like the plate, they do make a big difference plus save the bridge plate. It's amazing how quick bridge plate get chewed up and even damaged to the point they have to be replaced.
I bought a 75$ Yamaha pawn shop guitar , 5 years ago, and my goal was to fix one pawnshop guitar up. the previous owner had used TIGHTBOND Wood glue to GLUE IN the saddle!! it's compensated a bit forward and this sucker plays so well. lol!
Hello Randy, I already to a lot to my acoustic guitars and indeed, you can upgrade a guitar that is in your possession. A good move is to put a thin brass bar underneath te bridge. Thanks for that idea. One of my pupils recently told me his guitar sound wasn't the way he bought it in the past. What I did was of course a knocking test on his instrument in order to detect loose braces, but no. Then I checked the truss rod - there was NO TENSION on his truss rod. I was really surprised by tightening that device as the result was a more sparkling sound with much more liveliness in it. And a very happy pupil!
Yep it does make a huge difference especially if the truss is loose and just laying in there, I'm surprised it didn't rattle when it was that loose. Glad you figure it out! :)
With all the guys who mod the crap out of electrics it's nice to see someone talk sense about acoustics. I have a Jamon Zeiler 12 fret slot head that he put fossilized walrus ivory nut and saddle on. Don't really have a way to compare that to other stuff but I dig the guitar! I've been making bone saddles from a stash of bones I got from a butcher about 12 years ago... Grass fed cow bone that just gets harder and harder every year now. I bought a few slabs off eBay because I got tired of cutting and shaping this old stuff... Doesn't sound nearly as good. Best mod I think I've ever done to an acoustic that was really easy and cheap was to slap bone or ebony saddles in. I just did a swap on that Eastman where I put bone on the bass strings and ebony on the treble... The bone saddles gave the bass a big oomph!
+Caleb Hawkins I work on electric instruments too but not as many, UA-cam didn't seem to have a whole lot of acoustic info a few years back so sorta dedicated the channel to trying to show mostly acoustic stuff. If you haven't tried deer antlers for saddle or nuts you might like it, it too gets extremely hard and usually consistent throughout. It's amazing how much an acoustic guitar can be modded and altered but most think there are little to no adjustments when there are plenty, just not as much call for a soldering iron or screwdriver lol Thanks for watching and commenting Caleb! Wishing you a Happy New Year my friend!
I've seen it done both ways but instead of buying expensive tuners just leave your strings a little bit longer and make the last winding of the string be near the bottom of the tuner peg.i see a lot of vids say go 2 pegs past with the string I start it a little longer.it just takes a few more twists on the key .
good expanatory video on how to improve the sound of your acoustic. I knew how to do everything you mentioned except the brace shaving, this is great for people who don't know though. I honestly think its just as important to know how to maintain/fix your instruments as it is to play them if your a musician and it's not just a phase. \m/ cheers and appreciation from Ontario Canada! \m/
Many thanks to you Mel for checking out my video and commenting! I couldn't agree more with what you said about a musician knowing their instrument and being able to recognize and fix problems as they come up. It's amazing the money they can save by doing this and learning these techniques. Thanks again my friend for stopping in! :)
Thanx for this Informative vid, Sir Randy... Really Helpful Info... Nobody tells anybody this stuff where I'm from. They just expect One to automatically Know. Peace
Hi Randy. I've enjoyed watching most of your videos. I just restored my kinda old Prince and I put brass nut and saddle on this mate. I am pleased with the result. I'd be more than pleased if you could check my videos to see how it sounds. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Randy. I played for years, now I am interested in fixing up this Fender StarCaster Acoustic (cheap) guitar. I am waiting for luthier tools now. One thing, my fingers are soft as a baby.
Have you tried daddario xs strings? I think the coating on them is about 7 microns thick, so thinner than elixers, but thicker than the martins, and they last a super long time. I think they have a bit of a brighter tone than normal uncoated strings. The coating definatly changes the tone a bit. And the feel is a little bit smoother than normal strings also.
I've never tried them but thanks for the heads up, I will! I've been switching back and forth from Martin to Elixir so definitely will give these a try! also thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for posting this. The weakest point of my guitar's construction seems to be the cheap, wooden bridge, and that PlateMate(?) sounds like just the reinforcement it might need. My guitar is a rarity: a gifted cheapie that sounds fairly good. Nevertheless, I'd like to upgrade/reinforce it, to make the most of a really good bargain.
You're welcome Nick thanks for checking out my video. Yeah the platemate is a really good mod and not only help support your guitar but they usually help the sound better too.
Good video . Point 1 that thing under the bridge plate . I may get one . 2 I like Elixir strings but i understand what your saying . 3 any kind of pin is better then plastic . I have bone and Ebony pins . Hey lots of dead animals hanging around but thats ok with me I was a hunter . Keep up the good videos .
+Dev9172 I bet you'll like the platemate. Yeah I used to hunt big time, and almost all the time but gave it up about 6 years ago when music became more important to me than hunting. Thanks for checking out my videos! :)
Hi Randy, just started watching your channel. Good stuff! Speaking of saddles, how important is it for sound quality, that the saddle should be seated directly in the slot making good contact saddle to bridge plate? If it’s important, what happens when your guitar is fitted with a piezo sound wire pickup where the saddle rests right on top? Does it affect sound when playing acoustically and not through an amplifier? I’ll keep watching!
I like "Ivory-bone". It's bone they threatening in such a way, that it became as hard as steel and as white as ivory! And it comes in a bag of both Sattle and Nut.
If I were to try to add the Mitchell Plate Mate to my Seagull S6, could I expect to do that in an hour or so or am I looking at something that will take longer? I have been reduced to only 1 guitar is why I ask...Your videos are top notch btw
@@HgcnLe1 ok cool, yeah oit only takes a few seconds to install a plate mate, it takes longer changing the strings. thanks for checking out my videos, I have several on installing a pate mate.
Ive also heard of using a harder wood or denser wood for the bridge plate itself like African padauk, I have never done it to one of mine but have played one, maintained a rich balanced sound but much louder voice all together.
@@RandySchartiger BUT replacing a bridge plate is I think major surgery! A guy like me could get ones self in a bit deep with that LOL, just ran a cross you the other day and just subscribed, thanks for your vids man, Keep being you!
Thanks for video Randy, some great information. I'd like to share something I did, not upgrading as such: I have an old Washburn - not from when they were a great company, but it was a sound entry-level guitar I bought in about 1980: solid top, laminated sides, mahogany neck, rosewood fretboad. Played it for years, loved it, but eventually realised the action was not good. The guitar was about 18 years old then and the neck had arched and I think the top may have been bellying out just a little. So a Luthier dropped the saddle for me, he thought I wouldn't hear the difference, and he was a decent guy trying to be kind to my finances. and proportional to the guitar's market value - - but I did hear it and it spoilt the sound a bit, though it was more playable. So some years later when I had a little more money, despite my now having a gorgeous hand made acoustic, I wanted to restore my first love to its former glory. I took it to a local luthiery (I had moved 300 miles and couldn't got back to the first guy) and asked for the fretboard to be shaved and refretted so that it was slightly thicker at the body end, allowing the saddle to be raised back up. Actually I don't know exactly what they did but their interpretation of what I asked for was perfect. I suspect they completely replaced the fretboard, but the finish is as-new and I can't detect the work. However the saddle is back to where it had been when it was new in 1980, it plays like a dream and all the harmonics have returned. The work cost twice the price the guitar had cost when new, but it's a very nice piece of spruce on the top, and maybe it's nostalgia talking, but I feel it was well worth it. So in addition to the options Randy suggested of lowering the saddle to improve the action there is the option of a new fretboard, a refret or a neck reset to get the action just right - an expensive option certainly but when the guitar is showing signs of age, especially on a valuable guitar, well worth the investment when done by a good luthier.
Lowering the saddle also lowers the amount of down force on the saddle from the strings, this sometimes causes a guitar to lose a little of it's bite and probably was what you were hearing. And yep the work you had done probably cost about the same as a neck reset would cost but it does make a difference in the sound if you can keep a high saddle because of all of that down force being applied by the strings. Thanks for that info and thanks for watching my friend!
Randy, have you ever tried comparing a Tusq saddle to a deer antler saddle? I hear the bone thing but deer antler is more dense and I wonder what if any difference there is.
How in the world do you shave and scallop the braces? Do you have to take the face (top) of the guitar? Or can it be done with the guitar totally intact?
Randy...just curious? How would one go about Scalpping the braces or shaving as you put it? My self I wouldn’t trust my lack of experience for such a task. But...if someone sends there guitar to you, what would the exact cost be? On a New Martin D-28 (as you well know Martin 28’s don’t come with scalped bracing. Respectfully, Jeff Mercer Mentor Ohio
Enjoyed that even though I hardly ever play my acoustic, still you're a character Randy and I dig your accent, what state of America are you from? Cheers Si
+Simon Bradbury lol the great state of WV, the one teased about hillbilly's so much, that's why I try to make the accent more pronounced when I think of it, I forget to keep doing it tho lol because this day and age wv isn't as hillbilly as people think, especially the people that have never been here, so I try to keep it entertaining and funny. Thanks for tuning in my friend! Get that acoustic out! :)
F*** you thumbs downers everyone! this video is one to try to help you get the best sound out of your f****** guitar and if you don't like it go f*** yourself!
Hahaha you tell em!
Great advice Randy. A Tusq nut and saddle really improved my Sigma significantly. Cheers mate👍🏻
dont worry they are outnumber. its a great video
"Sick em" Randy "sick em".
Fuckem! :)
Ok criticism is not need, he just gets really excited about his guitars, he's just passionate, cut the man some slack. He has some great tips and life knowledge on guitars . You go Randy
Not all heroes wear capes, some of them teach us how to upgrade our guitars. Thanks sir.
He is talking about "TUSQ". A man made ivory. Google it. No animals were killed.
this dude is cool af. Haha I agree with everything this man said seriously and actually he is quite specific and spot on about getting your accoustic guitar's bass mid and treble to its full potential. or to what you may want more and less of.
Randy thanks for the tip on the Mitchell Platemate I just ordered mine 2 5/32nds...straight from there site. It’s going on my Martin D-28, they didn’t have this size already made up, but they ask you to write down the size to be made special, so I did exactly that, and I’m now waiting...the total cost with shipping was $23 and change.
Thanks again Randy!
God Bless your heart!
Respectfully,
Jeff Mercer
Mentor Ohio
Great vid as always Randy. Plate really makes a huge difference - I did install one in one of my acoustics (a mid range Takamine ) and it souds great. I am so looking forward to the little Martin!... I wish I would live closer to all of you so I could participate in your activities... Take care and Happy New Year, Master!
+Cesar Blues Guitar They do make a big difference in sound and protect the bridge plate very well. Thanks for checking it out Cesar. I wish you lived closer too! If you're ever in the states we should hook up!
Ebony bridge pins are awesome...gives more low end.
Hey, Mr. Randy! Just wanted to drop a comment to let you know how much I appreciate you and this video! I just discovered this one today and your tips have been a huge help. I've been playing for well over 30 years and I even learned new things today. I just subscribed and will most certainly keep tabs on your fine work! Thank you, Good Brother!
Thanks alot for the tips. I have fumbled my way through a few of these over the years, and it has really amazed me what huge differences can come from a few little "upgrades". As I get older, I'm having my own issues with health (arthritis). Really makes me grateful to still be able play. l very much enjoyed your video, keep 'em coming!
+Frank Huizar Thanks for your support Frank and commenting, I can relate to the getting old in many ways! :) Yes upgrades make an amazing change and if you keep your old hardware and don't like the changes you can always go back to the original state. Thanks again for watching!
Hi Randy,Pete here ,recently subscribed to your channel and quite impresed with your technik,and love the Q-ball.and your playing and picking are right on.Happy new year!!
+blkjckgtrnut Welcome aboard Pete, and thank you for subscribing! We have a lot of laughs and fun here, hopefully you'll find something along the way that helps. Happy New Year to you as well!
Tusq is a decent product in terms of its density but it's horrible stuff to work with i.e. cutting/filing the stuff is messy as it melts due the friction induced on a cut which messes your files up pretty quickly. Bone or ivory are materials which are much kinder to the cutting tools and you can be much more precise on cutting,filing and finishing.
You also don't need shorter posts on your tuners to get better downward force. I always cut the excess off my strings before I wind them. I wind them to the bottom of the post with no overlaps just a clean coil wind down the post.
I love how you thoroughly explain what you've learned over time and how you encourage people to learn to try things and listen to their instruments. I like to buy used instruments for cheap and try to make them playable again, your video gave me a lot of Ideas how to improve with some playful modding experiments as well as Maintenance of current guitars. Thank you!
Humble suggestion; rather than replacing tuners for ones with shorter pegs, take the pegs you have, and use a bit more string to wind them all the way down close to the face of the headstock, it ups the break angle across the nut (desired effect) and requires no hardware change. If you have good tuners, keep 'em, just wind the strings all the way down the peg by using a bit more string. This method gets you to the same place for free.
Also, there are some videos out there of the Martin factory showing their employees scalloping braces... holy hell, I doubt anyone does it better. Even if just a regular production model, not Custom Shop or anything, you can bet factory scalloped braces from Martin were done right. No need for that upgrade if you get the right guitar, but if you do want to scallop them... yeah, make sure someone who knows what they are doing does it. This is not a place for amateurs to play around.
Dude youre awesome. Thanks buddy!! Ive got a sweet Sigma Martin SDR 28, made in Korea, between 1986 & 1992. Rings like a bell.
I have a 2009 hd28 and it had a tusk saddle in it. for whatever reason it sounded too bright but over time the bass got boomier and the bottom end sustained more. I met a man at a jam out in the country who had a 1952 d28 and he had 2 piano key veneers glued together and compensated sunk in his saddle.
You couldnt tell by looking at it. It looked just like white bone. I've never heard a guitar ring that way in my life so I had to try it and that's what I have in mine now. It don't just boom like the tusk saddle which is great if that's what you like but it projects and is more even.
Old ivory piano key veneers.
Call me crazy.
I saw a documentary once about a sand spider that used tiny pieces of flawless quartz to attatch it's web to,because the quartz transmits the smallest vibrations along the web strands.Of course to make a flawless quartz saddle and nut,you would need to get it done by a skilled stone cutter.I'm not sure how you could give the precise measurements to him but boy oh boy that would be one amazing set up................
Did you know what you are describing is actually part of what makes piezo/transducer pickups work
@@Uber_Versace Yes,but I was more interested in the tone transmission side of it.............................
This is a Gibson Hummingbird Custom approximately 70's model, unbelievable sustain. The Copper gave it a tone like Cheryl Crow's Hummingbird. It gave it a bright tone not heavy bass, even with Martin 80/20 Lifespan. 013 - 056 Medium strings attached. Electronic tuner tunes to pitch OK guitar I call it like a piano bell tone, if that makes sense to you. And like I said the sustain really last!
Dear Randy:
Back when I was a younger man, and immature musically, I bought a wonderful and powerful Taylor 810 this instrument has a tremendous presence with sweet overtones, a strong mid-range and trebles that ring like a bell. To some and to me 32 years ago years this was an ideal instrument, it is loud enough that others in a jam want to look for a place to plug in, I have changed in my tastes enough that I want the instrument to be a PART of the sound, not the whole banana. Here's what I have done to the guitar to date: Removed all electronics including the strap/jack which I replaced with a No-jack Ebony pin, I replaced the nut and the saddle with bone and compensated the saddle I also lowered the action to a little over 3/32 at the 12th, I experimented with strings settling on GHS Vintage Bronze mediums 85-15, this change helped to reduce that tremendous presence and sweetened even more the overtones in all the range of the instrument. It is OK now in jams if I am very careful with my attack. Here's what I have planned next, I'm going to change out the nut and the saddle for genuine elephant Ivory, don't ask where I got it. I'm going to retain the Ebony Bridge pins (when I changed to bone, the difference was so small I had been unable to tell the difference, I think the original Ebony pins were slightly better) I have already converted to the Ebony end pin, and added an Ebony strap pin to the side of the heel on the neck. Will this good Ivory smooth out the punch and presence of the guitar or should I save the Ivory for it's replacement, I have my eye on an early Southern Jumbo that I really like. Oh yes, I'm going to replace those butt ugly Grover Rotomatics,the Rotomatics work well, but they are showing signs of internal wear and all the Gold is now rubbed off; the Waverleys will be Gold with Ebony knobs. Will these changes sweeten and tame this powerful guitar, or should I be trying to make a deal for the Southern Jumbo? The Gibson needs minor maintenance work and the old Kluson tuners are still in good shape, it mostly is just real dirty, the owner says no work has been done on it at all, it is just as it came from the factory, and has had only 6 string changes in it's long life, it has little wear, no grooves in the original frets, and has it's original case in great shape, only a slight dome behind the bridge, and the grotty nature of the guitar show any age the Owner is talking about a straight across trade with a little cash to boot. Help!
Great video man! I just replaced the bridge pins in my 20 u/o seagull S6. Man! What a nice improvement. I wanna order a Tusq saddle next!
I already upgraded my Epiphone Hummingbird with Tusq saddle and nut and ebony bridge pins which turned a £180 guitar into something really exceptional. I'd like to try the platemate but with import duty and admin fees it would double the price.Incidentally I upgraded my tele copy made from a kit with Tusq nut which improved it. I then spotted the Tusq string trees which I bought and fitted and this really lifted it from mediocrity to a very useable work horse. I'd like to try the Tusq individual saddles for electric guitars on it but they really are a bit expensive.
Anyway, good advice from a good video, thanks.
This is exactly what I needed to see...keep up the good work man love from Ireland 🎸🎸👌
I found that ebony Bridge pins added to some of warmth and round sound to my brighter more than steel sounding guitars
Randy thank you for sharing all this. I'm a Memphis player 50+yr . It's great to watch you explain this stuff like you do buddy, we could have grown up in the same neighborhood. Haha
😁
I don't understand the thumbs downs. Dude's talking common sense and is real. Right along with all the things we COULD do, telling us what NOT to do.
“Now y’all concentrate on the flatness” -Randy’s eyes 😳 F***kin hilarious! Guy is cool as hell. Awesome videos man. Personally I set my Martin up for all BONE TONE. It’s a all Sapele body so it naturally has tons of low end, balanced mids, and scooped highs. I wanted more volume and a touch more high end brightness and the BONE delivers this in spades! Hey Randy, I wanna know something? Would you carve up some deer antler sheds for a nut and saddle and try them out on a video? Curious what that would do.
Good word my man! Stuff I never thought of. I've got a cheap ($250) Mitchell that I've had for many years and I've always loved it's tone compared to more pricey guitars. I used to work at the Taylor factory in El Cajon CA and this cheapo sounds ALMOST as nice. Maybe your recommendations will take it to a new level. Thanks again :)
I know what you mean I've owned some cheaper guitars that just blew my high end ones away I couldn't believe it! No doubt all or even a few of these things done to your guitar will really wake her up. Thanks for viewing mate! Much appreciated! :)
I plan to replace my bridge and nut per your recommendation ... The bridge plate is a great idea also. Wouldn't even consider shaving any wood! haha. Wouldn't know where to stop. FYI, back in he late 90's Taylor gave out three sets of Elixer's to their employees every month.
Thanks for sharing these tips that bridge plate mate is genius. That could be made w/Tusq as well for a warmer tone.
Randy I love your videos and advice. I don't have any high end all solid wood guitars , I did in the 60's . I have a 2004 Seagull parlor and it has the tusq saddle and nut. I have an Epiphone EL-00 pro and it has plastic or what they call imitation bone and it seems ok for now got it in 2014. I decided to get other Parlor size which is what I prefer to play these days and not having the funds bought a Fender CP-60S .
The first one i got had lousy marker dots and they exchanged it for another . The issue is Fender seems to use plastic saddles that are not consistent in thickness . I don't recall the 1st one's fit yet this one the saddle is .113" thick and the slot is .125" wide and leans lowering the action and the high E is already cutting into the crappy saddle. The online store I bought it from is sending new strings and a Tusq saddle . I made a few radius gauges and found Seagull states all their guitars have a 16" radius board and saddle . I checked mine and the saddle and board are a 12" radius . Graph tech does not offer what radius most saddles are . Turns out The online store I bought this guitar from is sending me this saddle and thee Fender is a 12" radius and thick enough to require a bit of sanding to get a good fit plus raise the action since it's to low . On my seagull the top no matter how much I tried to humidify it didn't change enough and the action is a bit high . I can only take off a bit without the saddle ending up to low . I took your advice and had the strings loose and backed off the truss rod to know it was free and then reduced the relief from .012" to .004" and it was just enough to lower the action in the center so it is easier to play . Seagull states .012" relief , I found the dual action truss rod was backed off or in the neutral state and read most are. I did three CW 1/8 turns tuned it up and it took out most of the relief then detuned and went another 1/8 CW turn hoping for a straight neck . I checked it with a straight edge slacked off strings and it had a bit of back bow yet once I tuned it up it ended up with .004" . I left it there . I only hoped for a straight neck so I could back it off to find the relief that worked best . I imagine another 1/8 CW turn would have given me a straight neck under string tension I just didn't want to go to far.
Great tips for upgrading Randy. I have heard good things about Tusq so I just ordered some Tusq bridge pins to replace some old plastic ones just to see if that alone improves the sound. It’s probably the least expensive out of the suggestions you gave for upgrading. BTW…I am a huge Bela Fleck fan (and Victor Wooten too).
+Dale Palmer Every piece of tusq I've installed on my own guitars I have kept and never went back, I've installed tusq (from bone) saddles in guitars for people and it made quite a big change in the overall sound and as far as I know none of them have ever went back to what they were using before, it's definitely a good thing. Thanks for checking out the video Dale! Bela is a cool dude and so it Victor! Unbelievable musicians!
Awesome video! Going to take my acoustic to someone to get set up a little better. Got a Fender FA-125CE when I wasn’t sure if I was going to really stick with playing. A little over a year later I’m hooked but want to upgrade that thing before I buy a really nice acoustic. It’s a decent practice guitar that I wouldn’t mind taking camping. Appreciate the great insight!
I have a Yamaha LL6, many years ago after I purchased my guitar I immediately added a Tusk nut, bridge and a Plate Mate. Very satisfying.
Now I need to decide which pins and string would work best.
Thank you for the excellent, commons sense videos.
great to hear! thank you my friend for watching and commenting!
I went from plastic brdge pins to ebony on one of mine and it improved the tone to my ear
it does make a difference, I tried brass pins but to me was a little too bright sounding. thanks for checking out my videos!
Well Randy you inspired me to put a bone nut in my Gretsch jim dandy and have just ordered one and am looking forward to it arriving . I just had a bone nut put in my Yamaha 365s that I have had for 43 years and it sounds assume. Thanks for the tips and keep them coming bud.🤩👍
omg the ownerless guitar ideah. a free for all improvement session for a community guitar, love that ideah damn. one of these days when I get more tools I will be creating all this stuff from scratch. then u would get a good overall community guitar playable for everyone haha genius. I really like this video.
the electric green machine
I just tried a back foot bone from a big Buck for a saddle and nut after reading about it on one of the discussion groups. The bone is very hard and dense and sounds like glass when you tap it on a hard surface. Split it in two lengthwise, scrape out the marrow and scrub it clean with Dawn dishwashing detergent. Let it dry and don't cook it. Be sure to wear a dust mask when you are cutting and shaping it.
+Mark Fogleman That's good info you posted, thanks for sharing it with us. I've used deer antler but never tried or even thought of foot bone, I'll have to try this on one of my guitars, it may even be better than antlers. Thanks again for the idea and for tuning in.
That's what truss rod is for, I like heavy strings and always have to adjust the truss rod
I have a tusk nut and saddle, I had a friend that had some he used for jewelry. I didn't ask where he got them, I think was walrus. I had to carve them myself with his help. And they did make the guitar sound a lot brighter. I was real happy with the results.
It makes a huge difference! Some people don't like to use tusq but personally I have it in all of my guitars and love the sound. Thanks for viewing!
I recently put a tusque saddle on a acoustic bass for a guy he loves the sound I did to will slowly put them on all my acoustics if I ever have the time
that's what I did too, replaced the saddles with tusq on all of my guitars. thanks for watching!
I just upgraded my Martin with a tusk and it just amplified everything evenly. It absolutely amazing.
very cool yeah it does make a huge difference!
Hey Randy! I'm late to the party but I did find your channel today and of course I subscribed! I like all of the tips that you showed but I guess I'm an old guy because I don't think you need shorter tuning pegs. I just make sure that my string wraps go downward and the strings end up on the lower part of the post anyway. I know that manufacturers are making locking tuners these days but I guess I'm old and don't mind throwing some extra wraps around the post. If you take the time to make sure that the strings are laying downwards you won't have any trouble with the strings once you get them set. Looking forward to going through the years of videos you have!
I have a 1970's FG-140 that has been played hard. Changed nut, saddle and pins to bone. A friend gave me a set of Tony Rice strings. My guitar loves them.
+J Lane Blueridge guitars are really good guitars especially for the money, and built very well too. If those strings were the Martin Monel that Tony uses I bet your guitar did like them a lot. Thanks for stopping in and commenting!
+Randy Schartiger ...Blueridge? Did you not mean Yamaha? My FG is an old red label. I am sure you were thinking Y and typed B. They are Monel and they last a lot longer for me. Great info. Thanks
J Lane
Yamaha yes! lol I've got B on my mind I guess. Those Monel strings are hard to beat, they're the only string I like right out of the package, others takes at least 24 hours to start sounding like them, and most never do.
Thank you man for showing me how to do this, as for the thumb downers, get a life, this guy is simply trying to help you if you have nothing good to say say and do nothing
Found a graphite nut at Guitar Center. Very satisfied with the performance of this material.
Holy shit... need to try graphite. 🔥🔥
Tusq is graphite.
My favourite youtuber here! Just providing free content that is not found anywhere else on here so yall dont go around being nasty as hes the only guy who has actually gone outta his way to provide a tutorial for yall! Ive done a few of these mods and boy they have made my dreadnaught otherworldly
thanks so much my friend I appreciate the kind words! and thanks for checking out my videos!
Great tips, Thanks I installed a tusq saddle a few years ago, made a huge difference.
Thank you, I needed help replacing saddle but now I gotta try that tusk, really helpful man I appreciate it
Saw a video, and a guy sloted his bridge and used unsloted bridge pins. This increased the angle . I thought his guitar had more sustain after.
Thanks Randy will be changing my saddle and nut and take with your advice, Thank you !
He is referring to the many tusks available in the world from walrus,mammoth tusks that are found in the far north. As the ice melts the tusks are showing up all over.Most dealers have a cites permit so you can send guitars that may have banned items like Ivory. Yes ,a company named tusq also sells saddle material. I have used D'addario strings for 45 years . They sound the best on all my Acoustics. The ramp angle into the string holes on the bridge is not always correct. You can use a small thin file and increase the ramp angle. If any of the string wrapping shows at the saddle it needs to be fixed. If you play a single not on each string fretted at any point then play an open string you may hear a difference. If it sounds better fretted then the nut has a problem and needs to be filed correctly. If it it sounds bad or not really clear fretted then the saddle needs work. The fulcrum on the saddle or nut is SO important for intonation and tone. I use a 10x Jewelers loop to look at each fulcrum( The place where the string goes over the saddle or nut) Learn intonation. If your guitar does not have the exact same setting as an open string,fretted at the 12th fret and harmonics. All 3 should be the same on an electronic tuner. Electrics just need adjustments to the saddles. Acoustics are much more diffacult and you should let a pro do it.. Thanks Steve musicalinstruments63@gmail.com
Thank you! There is lot stuff here that I really didn't think about. I am going to start with the bridge saddle like you said.
I put Tusk nut and saddle on my Ibanez Ragtime. Wow, it really gave it a clear sound. I highly recommend them.
me too Rob they make day and night difference! thanks for watching!
I have a Laravee D-03R guitar. This is the quote from the manufacturer concerning the Mitchell Platemate.
12/22/2018
"Please be mindful when using gimmicks such as the platemate. They can inhibit maximum tonal transfer from string vibration to the soundboard. Larrivée also
recommends bone for highest quality and lasting performance."What is your opinion.
02-24-18: Randy, coming back around and looking through some of your classic videos..... "Re-learning" what I had forgotten about taking care of my own guitars thanks to you and your dedicated teaching. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge my friend.... While I'm here, I am "feeding the Trollups".... or are they Trolls..... I like "Trollups" better. ;)
trollups fit them quiet well lol many thanks Mike for checking out my older videos, people ask me a LOT of question on things I have videos already up about and I usually tell them if they'll look thru my past videos or search my channel there's a good chance they;ll find a video that'll help them. thanks again!
Randy I added Mitchel's Platemate that you suggested in this video to my Epiphone IB Texan and it was a very nice improvement. I was surprised how gouged up my bridge plate was, for as little as the guitar was used. I had a number of misc splinters of wood that I peeled off the bridge plate. My pins sit nice and flat now vs being a bit crooked prior to installing the plate. I also added a custom designed bone saddle to it (as well) made by Hoffman Guitars. Thanks for the great tips...
Very cool to hear! I'm glad you like the plate, they do make a big difference plus save the bridge plate. It's amazing how quick bridge plate get chewed up and even damaged to the point they have to be replaced.
I bought a 75$ Yamaha pawn shop guitar , 5 years ago, and my goal was to fix one pawnshop guitar up. the previous owner had used TIGHTBOND Wood glue to GLUE IN the saddle!! it's compensated a bit forward and this sucker plays so well. lol!
Wow I bet the saddle was a pain to get out for any reason! People do some strange things sometimes to their instruments.
Hello Randy, I already to a lot to my acoustic guitars and indeed, you can upgrade a guitar that is in
your possession. A good move is to put a thin brass bar underneath te bridge. Thanks for that idea.
One of my pupils recently told me his guitar sound wasn't the way he bought it in the past.
What I did was of course a knocking test on his instrument in order to detect loose braces, but no.
Then I checked the truss rod - there was NO TENSION on his truss rod. I was really surprised by
tightening that device as the result was a more sparkling sound with much more liveliness in it.
And a very happy pupil!
Yep it does make a huge difference especially if the truss is loose and just laying in there, I'm surprised it didn't rattle when it was that loose. Glad you figure it out! :)
Noud Koevoets
With all the guys who mod the crap out of electrics it's nice to see someone talk sense about acoustics. I have a Jamon Zeiler 12 fret slot head that he put fossilized walrus ivory nut and saddle on. Don't really have a way to compare that to other stuff but I dig the guitar! I've been making bone saddles from a stash of bones I got from a butcher about 12 years ago... Grass fed cow bone that just gets harder and harder every year now. I bought a few slabs off eBay because I got tired of cutting and shaping this old stuff... Doesn't sound nearly as good. Best mod I think I've ever done to an acoustic that was really easy and cheap was to slap bone or ebony saddles in. I just did a swap on that Eastman where I put bone on the bass strings and ebony on the treble... The bone saddles gave the bass a big oomph!
+Caleb Hawkins I work on electric instruments too but not as many, UA-cam didn't seem to have a whole lot of acoustic info a few years back so sorta dedicated the channel to trying to show mostly acoustic stuff. If you haven't tried deer antlers for saddle or nuts you might like it, it too gets extremely hard and usually consistent throughout. It's amazing how much an acoustic guitar can be modded and altered but most think there are little to no adjustments when there are plenty, just not as much call for a soldering iron or screwdriver lol Thanks for watching and commenting Caleb! Wishing you a Happy New Year my friend!
The best tips I have seen, Thanks man! I cant wait to try all of them, except for shaving the bracings:)
I enjoy your enthusiasm Randy
I've seen it done both ways but instead of buying expensive tuners just leave your strings a little bit longer and make the last winding of the string be near the bottom of the tuner peg.i see a lot of vids say go 2 pegs past with the string I start it a little longer.it just takes a few more twists on the key .
Very true, that's what I do on all of my guitars and it's cheaper than buying tuners and works just as well.
Yes it is
good expanatory video on how to improve the sound of your acoustic. I knew how to do everything you mentioned except the brace shaving, this is great for people who don't know though. I honestly think its just as important to know how to maintain/fix your instruments as it is to play them if your a musician and it's not just a phase. \m/ cheers and appreciation from Ontario Canada! \m/
Many thanks to you Mel for checking out my video and commenting! I couldn't agree more with what you said about a musician knowing their instrument and being able to recognize and fix problems as they come up. It's amazing the money they can save by doing this and learning these techniques. Thanks again my friend for stopping in! :)
I worked at COLLINGS guitars in AUSTIN, TEXAD and Sur, you are correct. walrus tusk and deer bone.
Awesome! Been looking for a way to improve my dx1. Much appreciated!
First time I have watched one of your videos. I really dug it .... very cool Randy.
Thanx for this Informative vid, Sir Randy... Really Helpful Info... Nobody tells anybody this stuff where I'm from. They just expect One to automatically Know. Peace
Hi Randy. I've enjoyed watching most of your videos. I just restored my kinda old Prince and I put brass nut and saddle on this mate. I am pleased with the result. I'd be more than pleased if you could check my videos to see how it sounds. Thanks for sharing.
Cool video with lots of good tips! Looking forward to the double Q-ball fix:) Happy new year brother!
+guitarstruggles Many thanks to you Bill! And Happy New Year back atcha! Cheers brother!
Enjoy how you explain your thoughts and experiences, keep the great movies coming... Mike
+Mike Harwood Thank you Mike for tuning in and commenting! Definitely more to come!
That is why slotted headstocks are better for sound, they have the best angle at the headstock.
Thanks Randy. I played for years, now I am interested in fixing up this Fender StarCaster Acoustic (cheap) guitar. I am waiting for luthier tools now. One thing, my fingers are soft as a baby.
6.08 😂 said with passion 👍👍 love your channel
Thanks for the tips Randy. I enjoyed this video.
Have you tried daddario xs strings? I think the coating on them is about 7 microns thick, so thinner than elixers, but thicker than the martins, and they last a super long time. I think they have a bit of a brighter tone than normal uncoated strings. The coating definatly changes the tone a bit. And the feel is a little bit smoother than normal strings also.
I've never tried them but thanks for the heads up, I will! I've been switching back and forth from Martin to Elixir so definitely will give these a try! also thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for posting this. The weakest point of my guitar's construction seems to be the cheap, wooden bridge, and that PlateMate(?) sounds like just the reinforcement it might need.
My guitar is a rarity: a gifted cheapie that sounds fairly good. Nevertheless, I'd like to upgrade/reinforce it, to make the most of a really good bargain.
You're welcome Nick thanks for checking out my video. Yeah the platemate is a really good mod and not only help support your guitar but they usually help the sound better too.
Good video . Point 1 that thing under the bridge plate . I may get one . 2 I like Elixir strings but i understand what your saying . 3 any kind of pin is better then plastic . I have bone and Ebony pins . Hey lots of dead animals hanging around but thats ok with me I was a hunter . Keep up the good videos .
+Dev9172 I bet you'll like the platemate. Yeah I used to hunt big time, and almost all the time but gave it up about 6 years ago when music became more important to me than hunting. Thanks for checking out my videos! :)
I hear ya . If you eat what you kill its ok . I have a camera now . Most hunters in Canada do eat what they kill .
Hi Randy, just started watching your channel.
Good stuff!
Speaking of saddles, how important is it for sound quality, that the saddle should be seated directly in the slot making good contact saddle to bridge plate?
If it’s important, what happens when your guitar is fitted with a piezo sound wire pickup where the saddle rests right on top?
Does it affect sound when playing acoustically and not through an amplifier?
I’ll keep watching!
Thanks for the video Randy! I enjoyed it alot. You won me over so now you have one new subscriber. Liked hearing you talk about Bela Fleck.
+JOHNATHON HUNTER Thank you Johnathon and welcome aboard! Thanks for checking out my videos! :)
Very interesting. Glad I found this. Look forward seeing more.
Love the cascade of white noise, and the right side balanced sound :) now, let's talk about better sound :))
you cracked me up, you got a thumbs up for just making me laugh, thanks man! Take care. Makes me happy you play guitar, it's a beautiful thing.
Thank you Ryan! I'm glad to make you smile! :)
I like "Ivory-bone". It's bone they threatening in such a way, that it became as hard as steel and as white as ivory! And it comes in a bag of both Sattle and Nut.
This is such a great video thank you
thank you my friend for watching and commenting!
I switched my plastic saddle out for brass I like It.
If I were to try to add the Mitchell Plate Mate to my Seagull S6, could I expect to do that in an hour or so or am I looking at something that will take longer? I have been reduced to only 1 guitar is why I ask...Your videos are top notch btw
I found the answer in some of your older video’s...thanks
@@HgcnLe1 ok cool, yeah oit only takes a few seconds to install a plate mate, it takes longer changing the strings. thanks for checking out my videos, I have several on installing a pate mate.
Ive also heard of using a harder wood or denser wood for the bridge plate itself like African padauk, I have never done it to one of mine but have played one, maintained a rich balanced sound but much louder voice all together.
you are right! I should have mentioned a bridge plate makes a huge difference! thanks for viewing!
@@RandySchartiger BUT replacing a bridge plate is I think major surgery! A guy like me could get ones self in a bit deep with that LOL, just ran a cross you the other day and just subscribed, thanks for your vids man, Keep being you!
Thanks for video Randy, some great information.
I'd like to share something I did, not upgrading as such: I have an old Washburn - not from when they were a great company, but it was a sound entry-level guitar I bought in about 1980: solid top, laminated sides, mahogany neck, rosewood fretboad. Played it for years, loved it, but eventually realised the action was not good. The guitar was about 18 years old then and the neck had arched and I think the top may have been bellying out just a little. So a Luthier dropped the saddle for me, he thought I wouldn't hear the difference, and he was a decent guy trying to be kind to my finances. and proportional to the guitar's market value - - but I did hear it and it spoilt the sound a bit, though it was more playable.
So some years later when I had a little more money, despite my now having a gorgeous hand made acoustic, I wanted to restore my first love to its former glory. I took it to a local luthiery (I had moved 300 miles and couldn't got back to the first guy) and asked for the fretboard to be shaved and refretted so that it was slightly thicker at the body end, allowing the saddle to be raised back up. Actually I don't know exactly what they did but their interpretation of what I asked for was perfect. I suspect they completely replaced the fretboard, but the finish is as-new and I can't detect the work. However the saddle is back to where it had been when it was new in 1980, it plays like a dream and all the harmonics have returned. The work cost twice the price the guitar had cost when new, but it's a very nice piece of spruce on the top, and maybe it's nostalgia talking, but I feel it was well worth it.
So in addition to the options Randy suggested of lowering the saddle to improve the action there is the option of a new fretboard, a refret or a neck reset to get the action just right - an expensive option certainly but when the guitar is showing signs of age, especially on a valuable guitar, well worth the investment when done by a good luthier.
Lowering the saddle also lowers the amount of down force on the saddle from the strings, this sometimes causes a guitar to lose a little of it's bite and probably was what you were hearing. And yep the work you had done probably cost about the same as a neck reset would cost but it does make a difference in the sound if you can keep a high saddle because of all of that down force being applied by the strings. Thanks for that info and thanks for watching my friend!
Thanks for the videos, you know a lot of good stuff.
psychoprosthetic
Thank you mate! And thanks for watching! :)
how is Charles Manson able to post you tube videos, J/K Randy, I enjoy your videos a lot
Manson? Nah, more like 'Who's da pig in a manger here?'
Nah, more like Michael Biehn.....still on the run from the T1000....lol.....love this guy!
Great knowledge like your off beat style of presenting. 👍😊
2:03 "Whew!!" LOL
Randy I hope you get the help that you need ha ha
+Ted Peterson LOL! Me too! :)
Some great tips Randy. Happy New Year. Looking forward to some great videos in 2016.
+Denny Doobles Thank you Denny and thanks for keeping it here! I have some good ideas for videos in 2016! :)
This is the video I was looking for, cheers
Randy, have you ever tried comparing a Tusq saddle to a deer antler saddle? I hear the bone thing but deer antler is more dense and I wonder what if any difference there is.
Good advice. I am learning a lot
thanks my friend, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great information, I will start saving up to send you my guitar if you’re interested in helping me out with the mods.
You are the man.
Morgan Cooper always interested in helping. :-) I'm booked up through March right now but get ahold of me I'll work you in.
How in the world do you shave and scallop the braces? Do you have to take the face (top) of the guitar? Or can it be done with the guitar totally intact?
a surgeon with a steady hand could do it without taking it apart
Great infos..Thanks. Happy new year buddy and i hope your house doesn't sleep in 2016
+CrawfishParish Hey thank you my friend! And Happy New Year to you as well! No sleep going on here! Cheers! :)
Randy...just curious? How would one go about Scalpping the braces or shaving as you put it? My self I wouldn’t trust my lack of experience for such a task. But...if someone sends there guitar to you, what would the exact cost be? On a New Martin D-28 (as you well know Martin 28’s don’t come with scalped bracing.
Respectfully,
Jeff Mercer
Mentor Ohio
Enjoyed that even though I hardly ever play my acoustic, still you're a character Randy and I dig your accent, what state of America are you from? Cheers Si
+Simon Bradbury lol the great state of WV, the one teased about hillbilly's so much, that's why I try to make the accent more pronounced when I think of it, I forget to keep doing it tho lol because this day and age wv isn't as hillbilly as people think, especially the people that have never been here, so I try to keep it entertaining and funny. Thanks for tuning in my friend! Get that acoustic out! :)
Randy puts acumen in his Eureka, says this subscriber. thank you.