Great video for us beginners, thanks. Couple of thoughts: after using the “nut lube” and applicator, seems to me if one doesn’t have the applicator a pointed tooth pick would make a good alternative. Also, I’m sure you knew a long time ago, I believe your coffee has gone cold.
Last time I changed my strings, for the bridge pins the string winder didn't work (like yours), but I found I could push them out from below by reaching into the sound-hole. That probably won't work for everyone (or for every guitar), but it eliminates the risk of damaging the pins.
I always put the low e and then the high e then the a and then the B Etc don't ask me why I just always done it that way kind of balances it out when you're putting your strings back on
Bridge pin...I go through the hole with a little piece of soft wood warped in paper. Then I gently push them a little bit out until I can grab them with the fingers
Great vid - as always. But I was always taught and still advocate that, unless you're intending to work on your fretboard, change one string at a time. It causes less stress to the guitar and, if you take your time (spend as long as you can on each one) to fully stretch them, they will stay in tune better and - even more crucially - not break. Does it work??? I haven't broken a string since 1990. Not one. And that includes my electrics too.
This seems like one of those urban myths that someone said once, it sounds kind of plausible and people picked up on it. I’ve watched various videos from people who I respect (such as Justin of JustinGuitar) and none of them advocate one string at a time. It’s time this myth was laid to rest and we took some care of our fretboards instead!
@@MattSwain1 I was taught it by a guy who has roadied for many pro guitarists so I've just stuck with it. And it works for me. I have genuinely (touch wood) never broken a string since 90 so go figure. Plus I did carefully ad the caveat of in case you need to work on the fretboard LOL The guitars I would advocate most of using this technique is ones with Floyd Rose style trems. If you change one string at a time and retune the new string carefully bending before the next (yes it takes longer) then the guitar pretty much always remains setup nicely and even with dive bombs galore you won't break a string. But as the guy in the vid says just do what works for you. PS - The BIGGEST urban myth ever created for the guitar is that thinner gauges rob you of tone. Simply NOT true.
Did you forget to put lemon oil on your bridge or is it because that should not be done? I oil mine occasionally, I hope I'm not making a mistake by doing that.
I'm not an expert on wood conditioning by any stretch, but if the wood slurped up the oil, it probably needed it. I can't think of any reason you'd benefit from having your bridge dried out. If there was no damage (eg from wrong kind of oil for species of wood) then what you used is probably safe to keep using.
@@sagittated oh yeah, it soaked it up. It enriched the color and brought out the grain as well. No damage from doing it so I figured it was fine, but nobody ever mentions treating the bridge, only the fret board so I was just wondering if it was the right thing to do. Thanks!
Me Nanna & Grandad had a 1930s bathroom....the bath & sink were the same teal green/blue colour of that guitars top!! Is it me thinking that's a weird colour for an accoustic!?!
Pity you didn't engage your brain instead. He plays fingerstyle. It's common practice amongst classical and flamenco players to apply nail hardener to protect nails from damage. Nail hardener, not cosmetic nail polish.
...dear @@PaulCooksStuff, yes, I' recognized it was just the right hand - don't you think I'am not able to joke ? But thanks a lot for not engaging your brain...
Tips - If wanting to play lead guitar and string bending on an acoustic choose a guitar with lower scale length - such as some PRS SE acoustics or Cort SFX models which have 25.3 inch scale length. Another advantage of light gauge strings is that there is less stress on the guitar top. The guitar might last longer because less risk of the top bellowing or lifting up causing high action and making neck reset necessary (probably cheaper to buy a new guitar if that happens).
great vid solid info and nice chill presentation. is there an andertons podcast or any kind of stream where some of the guys just chat informally about guitars, music or anything really, its always fun to hear what different guitarists/musicians think
Lol I never comment but had to.. And first comment was about not cutting strings.. Haha When the " winder tool" u-shape for loosening pegs didn't work (as it should not be really before you cut strings and push down the ends..) and he took the cutters I was thinking.. Ok good. That's the way to do....." It? What".. Lol. You use that tool you "tool" to cut the strings.. Then push down the ends with "ball end" wedged fast if you strung your guitar correctly in the first place.. Then you pick out the pegs with your finger. Worked for 40 years without problem.. Was curious to see if there were tips in the video I have missed because of whom posted it.. But after that first "blunder" I stopped it.. Maybe categorise it as "good try. Better luck next time" 😅
Excellent video Ben, thank you. Now for part two where you adjust string height and install new tuners!
Tip to all! Remove the bridgepins by pushing them up from the inside of the guitar that is way less risky then using a bridge pin puller or pliers
Can a bridge pit puller potentially do damage to the pin slots or the bridge itself?
@@fanofthewylde2933 it happens often that a bridge pin puller breaks a pin
Agreed
If the bridge pins are stuck it's easy just to reach your hand through the sound hole and push them up from the bottom.
It’s time to change the strings on my guitar again. Good thing I remembered that there is this video 😊 - will watch it again to prepare.
Very helpful video. I especially liked the hint about cutting the new strings at about 1,5 tuner distance length ❤
perfect timing, i just got a new acoustic
your pensive, bridled smirk regarding all the guitar jargon was hilarious.
Great video Ben, every musician should know simple maintenance for their instruments.
Excellent presentation of an often neglected chore that's scary for many beginners.
"I like to use Big Ben's Nut Sauce," I bet you do, big man. I bet you do.
😂
8:00
Great video for us beginners, thanks.
Couple of thoughts: after using the “nut lube” and applicator, seems to me if one doesn’t have the applicator a pointed tooth pick would make a good alternative.
Also, I’m sure you knew a long time ago, I believe your coffee has gone cold.
I’ve been playing for more than 20 years and first time I’ve seen this restring method. Loved this video and the east coast guitar looks great!!
You are, I think, the first person on UA-cam to not cut the strings during a change.
Why would someone cut the strings off a guitar? That makes no sense.
ben’s got nice nails
Last time I changed my strings, for the bridge pins the string winder didn't work (like yours), but I found I could push them out from below by reaching into the sound-hole. That probably won't work for everyone (or for every guitar), but it eliminates the risk of damaging the pins.
Great video and very nice tips for maintainance!
I always put the low e and then the high e then the a and then the B Etc don't ask me why I just always done it that way kind of balances it out when you're putting your strings back on
Bridge pin...I go through the hole with a little piece of soft wood warped in paper. Then I gently push them a little bit out until I can grab them with the fingers
4:26 “Gig ming!!!” Word of the week!
Thanks for that!
forgot to lubricate the tuners... use Triflow (from yr local bike shop), also good for nuts
Comprehensive & correct. As thorough as Martha Stewart.
The Monty's wax also works as nut lube
Yes, but DO NOT TAKE THE SADDLE Out unless you first mark which way round it goes. I write B and T underneath with a pencil!
Oddly satisfying chore
Great vid - as always. But I was always taught and still advocate that, unless you're intending to work on your fretboard, change one string at a time. It causes less stress to the guitar and, if you take your time (spend as long as you can on each one) to fully stretch them, they will stay in tune better and - even more crucially - not break. Does it work??? I haven't broken a string since 1990. Not one. And that includes my electrics too.
In theory I agree.. but a guitar that's played every day could use a fret polish and fretboard oiling as often as new strings..
This seems like one of those urban myths that someone said once, it sounds kind of plausible and people picked up on it. I’ve watched various videos from people who I respect (such as Justin of JustinGuitar) and none of them advocate one string at a time. It’s time this myth was laid to rest and we took some care of our fretboards instead!
@@MattSwain1 I was taught it by a guy who has roadied for many pro guitarists so I've just stuck with it. And it works for me. I have genuinely (touch wood) never broken a string since 90 so go figure. Plus I did carefully ad the caveat of in case you need to work on the fretboard LOL The guitars I would advocate most of using this technique is ones with Floyd Rose style trems. If you change one string at a time and retune the new string carefully bending before the next (yes it takes longer) then the guitar pretty much always remains setup nicely and even with dive bombs galore you won't break a string. But as the guy in the vid says just do what works for you.
PS - The BIGGEST urban myth ever created for the guitar is that thinner gauges rob you of tone. Simply NOT true.
Did you forget to put lemon oil on your bridge or is it because that should not be done? I oil mine occasionally, I hope I'm not making a mistake by doing that.
I'm not an expert on wood conditioning by any stretch, but if the wood slurped up the oil, it probably needed it. I can't think of any reason you'd benefit from having your bridge dried out. If there was no damage (eg from wrong kind of oil for species of wood) then what you used is probably safe to keep using.
@@sagittated oh yeah, it soaked it up. It enriched the color and brought out the grain as well. No damage from doing it so I figured it was fine, but nobody ever mentions treating the bridge, only the fret board so I was just wondering if it was the right thing to do. Thanks!
I just push the pins out from the inside.
what about sanding the saddle?
Lowering the saddle runs the risk of affecting the tone and sustain because it reduces the string break angle.
Good video, nice sounding guitar, hideous colour though.
You don't set your intonation or action?
top tip.. keep your string bridge pins in the order they came out! trust me, im a doctor. thank me later 😉
I am a guitar player and trust me.. You wear them out faster that way. Bit like rotating your tires for even wear..
Me Nanna & Grandad had a 1930s bathroom....the bath & sink were the same teal green/blue colour of that guitars top!!
Is it me thinking that's a weird colour for an accoustic!?!
I had to sell all my Guitars to Pay my Gas Bill , Then my Amps and Effects to pay Rent , at least im Warm and Dry.
...as I' saw that "queer" Fingernails, thump went down, me out ...
Pity you didn't engage your brain instead. He plays fingerstyle. It's common practice amongst classical and flamenco players to apply nail hardener to protect nails from damage. Nail hardener, not cosmetic nail polish.
????
...dear @@PaulCooksStuff, yes, I' recognized it was just the right hand - don't you think I'am not able to joke ? But thanks a lot for not engaging your brain...
@@mariamagdalena7147 jokes are meant to be funny.
@@mariamagdalena7147 could you explain the joke?
Tight bridge pins, get a plastic golf tee lifter
Tips - If wanting to play lead guitar and string bending on an acoustic choose a guitar with lower scale length - such as some PRS SE acoustics or Cort SFX models which have 25.3 inch scale length. Another advantage of light gauge strings is that there is less stress on the guitar top. The guitar might last longer because less risk of the top bellowing or lifting up causing high action and making neck reset necessary (probably cheaper to buy a new guitar if that happens).
1. Don’t paint it green!
😂😂😂
I always put the bridge pins in the same order they came out is that a bad thing
You can push the pins out by reaching through the hole.
Ooh what are those silver things on his nails??
So very Cool, Thankyou. So very helpful, Informative, and Entertaining, Cheers.
The cleaner must make a fortune lok
great vid solid info and nice chill presentation. is there an andertons podcast or any kind of stream where some of the guys just chat informally about guitars, music or anything really, its always fun to hear what different guitarists/musicians think
for 'fretboard conditioning', go to your local art shop & buy their smallest bottle of Refined Linseed Oil, it'll last you alifetime
Nice 👍
What's wrong with furniture polish?
its got wax in it
@@rexrathtar3893 Ernie Ball's polish contains silicone.
nothing
Lol I never comment but had to..
And first comment was about not cutting strings.. Haha
When the " winder tool" u-shape for loosening pegs didn't work (as it should not be really before you cut strings and push down the ends..) and he took the cutters I was thinking.. Ok good. That's the way to do....." It? What"..
Lol. You use that tool you "tool" to cut the strings.. Then push down the ends with "ball end" wedged fast if you strung your guitar correctly in the first place.. Then you pick out the pegs with your finger. Worked for 40 years without problem..
Was curious to see if there were tips in the video I have missed because of whom posted it.. But after that first "blunder" I stopped it..
Maybe categorise it as "good try. Better luck next time" 😅
Nothing to change a rather dire, green colour? :-)