So glad I found this video. I was having so much trouble with most prototype cars, especially on sebring. I was running several seconds slower and I didn't realize that my car setup was the problem. This taught me so much. Thanks man!
Hi, interesting. For the rear wheeltrack, as the lateral load transfer is defined by the lat G, the height of the center of gravity and the wheel track, the wider it is, the lower the lateral load transfer( wich means less loss of coefficient of friction => better grip) . It also mean, for a given lateral load transfer, less body roll. The secondary effect to be aware of is that it will have a small effect on the motion ratio with a greater distance between the wheel and the spring weach will result in a lower spring rate reported at the wheel (spring rate at wheel = spring rate/motion ratio squared ), it also means that for a given movement of the wheel, the sprring and dampers will move less but at a lower speed, wich plays a role on the dampers.
I keep this in the “watch later” for ease of reference. Ever thought about doing a drive and tune? For example, “I feel the car is doing [problem] at the entrance/mid/exit of [corner] so I will make this adjustment to fix it and gain lap time” I know it’s an over simplification but would be cool to see.
really brilliant video, but I'm struggling with pitstops in this game. Can signal a pit stop to the crew, but not sure how to set it up? Can I do this in the 'Strategy setting.' Thanks.
In strategy you can only set up the fuel amount. To configure the pitstop from the car, request the pitstop, this should open the pit settings screen on your HUD MFD, then use the Pit menu up/down/increment/decrement values (set in Assign Controls -> UI & Chat tab). If the pit settings HUD does not come up on your MFD when requesting the pitstop, use the "Display mode" button to cycle through different views on the HUD until you get to it. There you can set more things, like damage repair, tires, fuel, wing change, etc
Sorry for a late reply. If you're bottoming out, you have 2 options how to resolve it. Raise the ride height, which raises the center of gravity and makes cornering worse, or you stiffen up the springs, which in turn, also affects cornering. If you're happy with the cornering, you can attach the 3rd spring, the stiffer that it is, the more it will resist the body of the car being squashed to the ground due to its aero and high speeds. Packers on the 3rd spring will reduce the travel length of the 3rd spring, which you might want to install as well if you're bottoming out over a bump in the road i.e.
There are some cars in factor 2 that when we make the turn, even if the turn is slow, the car loses its rear end very easily, is there a way to fix this?
This is a characteristic of some cars, particularly those with a lot of weight over the rear, or more specifically, Porsche 911's. You can try adjusting the setup to reduce this to some degree, but it will induce a lot of understeer, at least in my experience. Therefor I recommend adjusting your driving style to help fight this. Those cars usually love to have a little bit of throttle applied immediately after braking to shift the weight back again over the rear tires and have them grip up. However, if you want to go ahead with the setup, I'd say you should look at the following options, in that order: - brake balance more to the front (if the snap happens on corner entry) - less rake (less difference between front and rear ride height, where rear is still higher than front) - softer rear suspension (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit) - stiffer front suspension (if the oversteer is happening on corner entry) - increase toe-in value on front (higher number, but still negative) - dampers (don't go too crazy changing those): - softer rear bump & front rebound (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit) - softer front bump & front rebound (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit) - differential (recommend doing it last): - decrease power (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit) - decrease coast (if the oversteer is happening on corner entry) - decrease differential preload (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit) - increase differential preload (if the oversteer is happening on corner entry)
Ouch. But no, that's just random clicking on a default setup while making the recordings. I've posted a quali lap with a setup a long time ago, ua-cam.com/video/OirijK25akE/v-deo.html although that is on an then LFM BoP where the Oreca had less power to not have it mingle with the Vanwall. And if I remember it could be a bit understeery, so could use a bit softer front and maybe a bit more rake, and adjusted dampers.
So glad I found this video. I was having so much trouble with most prototype cars, especially on sebring. I was running several seconds slower and I didn't realize that my car setup was the problem. This taught me so much. Thanks man!
Thank you really good video i like the fact that you tell that for example if you oversteer you need to reduce or increase something it really helps
Can’t wait for the in depth video
thx for this informative video
Tnx for this setup video.
The way you're explaining these settings makes it easy to understand.
Please make more videos like this😍
Thank you, is there anything specific that you're looking for?
Hi, interesting.
For the rear wheeltrack, as the lateral load transfer is defined by the lat G, the height of the center of gravity and the wheel track, the wider it is, the lower the lateral load transfer( wich means less loss of coefficient of friction => better grip) .
It also mean, for a given lateral load transfer, less body roll.
The secondary effect to be aware of is that it will have a small effect on the motion ratio with a greater distance between the wheel and the spring weach will result in a lower spring rate reported at the wheel (spring rate at wheel = spring rate/motion ratio squared ), it also means that for a given movement of the wheel, the sprring and dampers will move less but at a lower speed, wich plays a role on the dampers.
EXCELLENT!
40+min just on the basics of setup??? Immediate like n sub ! !
I keep this in the “watch later” for ease of reference. Ever thought about doing a drive and tune? For example, “I feel the car is doing [problem] at the entrance/mid/exit of [corner] so I will make this adjustment to fix it and gain lap time”
I know it’s an over simplification but would be cool to see.
The "gain lap time" is the hard part. But yes, I have been thinking about it :)
really brilliant video, but I'm struggling with pitstops in this game. Can signal a pit stop to the crew, but not sure how to set it up? Can I do this in the 'Strategy setting.' Thanks.
In strategy you can only set up the fuel amount. To configure the pitstop from the car, request the pitstop, this should open the pit settings screen on your HUD MFD, then use the Pit menu up/down/increment/decrement values (set in Assign Controls -> UI & Chat tab). If the pit settings HUD does not come up on your MFD when requesting the pitstop, use the "Display mode" button to cycle through different views on the HUD until you get to it. There you can set more things, like damage repair, tires, fuel, wing change, etc
When should packers be used on 3rd springs?
Sorry for a late reply.
If you're bottoming out, you have 2 options how to resolve it. Raise the ride height, which raises the center of gravity and makes cornering worse, or you stiffen up the springs, which in turn, also affects cornering.
If you're happy with the cornering, you can attach the 3rd spring, the stiffer that it is, the more it will resist the body of the car being squashed to the ground due to its aero and high speeds.
Packers on the 3rd spring will reduce the travel length of the 3rd spring, which you might want to install as well if you're bottoming out over a bump in the road i.e.
Basics
Basics
@@Gabe.Hbasics
@@Gabe_Hbasics
There are some cars in factor 2 that when we make the turn, even if the turn is slow, the car loses its rear end very easily, is there a way to fix this?
This is a characteristic of some cars, particularly those with a lot of weight over the rear, or more specifically, Porsche 911's.
You can try adjusting the setup to reduce this to some degree, but it will induce a lot of understeer, at least in my experience. Therefor I recommend adjusting your driving style to help fight this. Those cars usually love to have a little bit of throttle applied immediately after braking to shift the weight back again over the rear tires and have them grip up.
However, if you want to go ahead with the setup, I'd say you should look at the following options, in that order:
- brake balance more to the front (if the snap happens on corner entry)
- less rake (less difference between front and rear ride height, where rear is still higher than front)
- softer rear suspension (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit)
- stiffer front suspension (if the oversteer is happening on corner entry)
- increase toe-in value on front (higher number, but still negative)
- dampers (don't go too crazy changing those):
- softer rear bump & front rebound (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit)
- softer front bump & front rebound (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit)
- differential (recommend doing it last):
- decrease power (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit)
- decrease coast (if the oversteer is happening on corner entry)
- decrease differential preload (if the oversteer is happening on corner exit)
- increase differential preload (if the oversteer is happening on corner entry)
i hope you're not driving on the setup you were showing cause it's a really bad one
Ouch. But no, that's just random clicking on a default setup while making the recordings. I've posted a quali lap with a setup a long time ago, ua-cam.com/video/OirijK25akE/v-deo.html although that is on an then LFM BoP where the Oreca had less power to not have it mingle with the Vanwall. And if I remember it could be a bit understeery, so could use a bit softer front and maybe a bit more rake, and adjusted dampers.