Yeah the reason it hurts the bike is because the ECU doesnt give it any fuel. They did this to meet emissions but these bikes run much better if you make them more free flowing. Give them more air and somewhere for it go and all you need is fuel to make significant power gains.
Terve. Thanks for the honesty!!! This comment is an emotional take on "grunt", torque or in Finnish "sitkeys" (no keys related) and vääntö. "Let MORE air in by cutting the air box useless" gives me goosebumps when said with emotion. Reason being that, in my opinion the definition of "more" is wrong. Not many have it clear what "more" actually stands for. More is not having a bigger and a shorter hole (instead of a long pipe with funnels on both ends.) Reason is air speed. Larger air speed generates more torque. Having a long thin'ish pipe for the inlet provides greater air speeds. Engine would anyhow sucks the air it needs. By having a pipe with funnels on both ends the flushing of the cylinders would get better. The speedy air goes more easily in and out from the engine. This is also the reason why two strokes are picky about the exhaust. The chamber on the pipe resonates so it's supposed to "suck" gases out via correct timing of these resonating pulses. And this way to achieve better flushing of the cylinder gases and to have a better power curve. So the speedier air flow brings more grunt to the power curve. Yes it would limit the maximum output by a fraction but, which one shows in the real world? +0.79hp in the absolute power maximum on a 500rpm top-end range or, more torque in all the non-maximum rpm range? I think this video speaks for itself. Have a peek at old carburetors that are race spec. Rally cars or speedy bikes. Each one has an "acceleration funnel" to maximize the flow speed of inlet air. It's not simply just a big hole for a reason. Please don't cut the air boxes of your engines useless. The 2nd hand owners would hate that kind of a mess. So a big thanks for this realistic test and see u at the club ;)
Taking out snorkel may result in more turbulence as air enters the airbox. That would account for the increased noise and also explain reduced performance, especially at the higher speeds.
Good experiment. Honda engineering is world-leading in most of their products. Fluid dynamic engineering went into the design of the intake and exhaust. Removing the intake snorkel violates Honda's "all-in" engineering and destroys the designed intake resonance. "All-in," the engine was designed to work with all its stock components together. Most mods and aftermarket products are Jethro! Your test showed that. How many videos have I watched where some backyard "engineer" removed the snorkel and drilled holes in the airbox to let the engine "breath better." Not too surprising who will win when Jethro takes on Honda engineering! Great video.
From my experience screwing around, if you put an after market air filter and exaust and then do the airbox mod, it just makes the bike run leaner than it already does from the factory. Real gains are only made with EJK or ECU reflash. Just my opinion tho.
The bike is designed to run its best in standard trim the way it comes from the factory, but you can change ( improve) the power delivery and amount, but you have to change multiple things .
Thanks! Very valuable information. Several years ago I did the exhaust, intake and jetting mods to make 2001 Kawasaki 1500. The result was MORE NOISE, LESS POWER, LESS TOP SPEED, MUCH LESS MILES PER GALLON of fuel. It was a huge disappointment!!!
I'm not surprised at all. I've professionally tested bikes and scooters all my working life. More or different noise (snorkel removed) influences a lot of people's perceptions. That's why a 2D-datarecording we used or a dyno are important to check your "feelings". Have a great Sunday, Günter/Nürnberg
Hi Günter, to be honest I was expecting a small increase in power. Assuming that the amount of air is increased the mass flow meter should detect this and the ECU should calculate more fuel which has to be injected. I would like to know where I am thinking wrong. Or maybe the air mass flow is not even getting bigger? Thanks and greetings from Aachen
@@superchargergo This is a wonderfuld field for tuning or an engineer. Could be that the standard airbox (despite some modifications) does not allow enough air into the engine. Maybe too small (obstacle), maybe too wide (less speed). Maybe the cylinder head (flange, valves) blocks more power. Tuning is a vast field and time-consuming. If it was as easy as a new airbox or a different slip-on... Happy rides, Günter/Nürnberg
Was not suprised. Air flow into the box by removing the snorkel gives a shape edge and probably a lot of turbulens. A smooth snorkel will let the air flow better into the box. However, I bet a bigger diameter and shorter (3d printet) inlet track to the airbox will impove on stock, but more noise. Honda have to take several point into consideration when designing the snorkel, induction noise and flow. It is probably the best compromise to meet all requieremnts.
Especially with the bike otherwise being stock. I wanted to raise the question is it a good idea to mutilate these airboxes especially if the bike is otherwise stock. I see so many videos of people drilling all kinds of holes and using glue to botch these separate holes on the side etc. Water ingress will be a problem and they are probably not gaining any power. Airflow + exhaust + ECU.. then we start to talk maybe some measurable differeces but I'm still sceptical on how much can we really get out of this even doing all 3. Cost is high and benefit is low from what I have seen.
@@PatchedBandit Agree to some extent. I've just got my Rally last week so still running in. Small gains on a small output engine is still a gain. However, I was watching a Shonky productions vid where he tested a friends stock Rally after modding his bike. He was suprised on how good the stock actully was. Im not sure now I want to do all the mods now, but I would really like a proper dyno session to smooth out the off throttle jerkiness. However, not eays with a EU ECU... Seem like the tune is all about fuel and emissions, so lean. First Im going to enjoy the bike as it is and do needed stuff first like handguards and maybe a softer seat. My arse is dead!
great video. its accurate enough to determine if there are any significant gains or losses. I think that if you sat on the snorkel your bum dyno would forever more suffer from huge losses.
Very well made video showing actual results. If you were to open up the snorkel hole (or add another hole) , remove the backfire screen, add aftermarket filter, and use the CBR intake you will measure big gains.
I disagree on the 'big' part of that 😊 Jake the garden snake did absolutely everything on his and there was gains at some rpm levels but considering everything he did I think the gains were still pretty minor. I'm not saying this bike can't be tuned but I am saying that just throwing away these snorkels is pointless and also asking the question is it really worth it to put thousands towards powermods? It's fun but.. worth the money? 😁
@@PatchedBandit disagree all you like, the big gains are still there. Just the snorkel is pointless, it takes a few simple changes to free up the intake. I measured the performance increase. 6th gear roll-on from 60-115 kmh was 3 seconds quicker. Jake only dynoed once and made huge gains in the mid range, not sure what you saw. A little on top. CBR boot was $30, after market filter is a no brainer for it's re-usability. Even the CBR cams are dirt cheap if you want to gain a bit more. I've also done the 550 ecu to compensate for the extra airflow. SO that was $150. 550 showed 20% more power on top when they dynoed the stage 1.5.
Sure sure 🙂 As I said it's fun to tinker but also its not like it comes cheap. Full exhaust, intake mods, 550 ecu etc.. Someone says it's worth it someone says its a lot of money for a cheap bike. Lets be generous and say the bike is 30hp instead of 27 after 1000 euros.. everyone needs to decide if it's worth it or not for themselves. Not here to argue and I might do some mods to mine too at some point if I don't sell it. Jake also did the big bore kit.
You don't even need exhaust or aftermarket filter for big gains. The hp per dollar is a bargain. $200 for the snorkel and stage 1 ecu and open up the intake. Jake dynoed before the big bore. Not here to argue either but what you said isn't factual. Which is surprising considering your attention to detail and consistency during testing. Peace out.
Look into lamaner vs turbulent flow. I'm betting at the higher speed the air was "skipping" over the airbox hole with no snorkel. Would be interested to see if cutting the internal part of the snorkel off would help
Any variation should be tested separately. This video was mainly to simply answer if it is worth it to chuck the whole thing as I have seen some people do. I might do some testing with a dyno later but repeating this as I did here is a lot of work and dyno would give more accurate readings 😊
You did not factor revs, but from your figures we can maybe deduct that in mid-rev range the "no snorkel" mode is beneficial . You loose at the beginning of roll on, and at the end on the highest speed 130km/h, but reading your results 50-100 and 50-120 at most of the points "no snorkel" wins. We do not have 70-100 to be more precise, but this is my reading of your excel table.
The differences on those speeds are so small it is completely meaningless. I mean 0.2 parts of a second is not really something this test can varify to be anything else but normal measurement variation. From this test I have no reason to believe any of the rev ranges is positively affected. Half a second repeated would be something I would possibly conseed to be meaningful. But if the test shows the exact same on run 1 and tenth of a second difference in run 2 it's not really anything else but normal variation caused by the fact that this test is not done in a vacuum. The top speed difference I could feel just by the fact that I had to ride a noticeably longer distance for the bike to reach 130.
Interesting. But to be fair to other testers I haven't seen any that have just removed the snorkel. The better tests have replaced the crf300 stack with the much bigger cb300 stack. They have also fitted high flow components such as air box lid and air filter. There have been a couple of testers who were quite thorough, one using a manometer to measure the vacuum effect of the restrictive stock components compared to high flow, and a Finnish guy who did full mods then used race timing equipment to measure several runs. Both these were very interesting. Good luck with your future testing.
That Finnish guy is me though. ua-cam.com/video/-rdtfHX3i6k/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/0Dh0g1QIY7A/v-deo.html The whole point of this video was to show everyone that they should not mutilate the airbox without doing any of the other mods. I've seen this happen a lot.
@@PatchedBandit You seem to have aged before this video was made! Haha, sorry for the mix up bro. Try to find the manomter one, that was good too, he tested while removing the individual components one by one and recorded how much difference each one made.
I saw the 'labtest' type of test of the airbox itself. That's not really all that black and white though. The resistance levels and all that goes in to designing these air intakes is a lot more complex than people like to assume. It's not all about how freely the system flows or not. Different rpm levels affect the results a lot too and how the whole system is configured. Even if you remove the whole airbox and only leave the throttle manifold the bike is not gonna be faster because the tune is optimized for the stock setup. I made this video originally because I saw a lot of posts online of people just mutilating their airboxes and thinking they have a lot faster bike which is definitely not the case. I aged 10 years within 2 because of my health problems. Now I'm just happy to still be alive.
@@PatchedBandit From you: "people just mutilating their airboxes and thinking they have a lot faster bike which is definitely not the case". Definitely, I watched a couple of guys comparing a modified vs non-modified acceleration test in which the modified bike barely pulled away from the unmodified away from the unmodified one. I wondered if it was really worth the $1500 or so spent to modify the bike.
I've yet to see a Y.T. video reference the Bernoulli Equation, which describes the relationship between pressure, velocity and volume going through an orifice, such as a carburetor venturi. Regarding intake and exhaust pipes, longer pipes before a header collector improve low-rpm torque; shorter pipes yield more high-rpm power ... due to 'scavaging' the exhaust ports' vacuum pulses after firing. When folks remove this factory tuning, I've NEVER heard one admit to REDUCED low-rpm torque ... which may (probably?) explain the impaired results that your fine testing experienced. What little high-rpm power benefit may have been offset by reduced low-rpm torque.
Very possible! I felt the need to do this quick comparsion as I came across so many videos and posts online of people mutilating and drilling holes to their airboxes without doing anything else to the bike or fueling of the bike. They are just ruining the bike at that point and it needs to stop 😄
@@PatchedBandit How many UA-camrs know MORE/BETTER than Honda engineers ... who've sold well over 100 million of their mini-moto engines (in various models), as of 2017 ? 😄
@@discoveror9576 With one caveat I agree. Engineers are restricted by the heavy regulation though and this is exactly why this CRF300 can be succesfully tuned with a bit of effort and money. Shaved 5 seconds off my 30 to 120kmh time with the stage 1 tune from 550 performance. Highly recommend that tune BUT it is ofcourse going to also get rid of every single emission restriction on the bike... some people hate this and I do get it.. ua-cam.com/video/0Dh0g1QIY7A/v-deo.html
Of course you're right. Every engine is designed for certain pressure values at intake and exhaust (backpressure), and removing snorkels or replacing pipes requires not only fueling adjustments, but also valve timings adjustments to be useful. It's actually a challenge to find a second-hand bike that doesn't have some stupid destructive "mods" that make it run poorly.
Well said! I made this video just to show people that drilling all kinds of holes to the airbox doesn't make any difference or can even be worse. I've seen so many videos of people only modding the airbox and saying the bike is faster without any real tests done. Just with ass feel it is so hard if not even impossible to say if these bikes are 1hp more or less powerful especially as certain rev ranges can be affected differently with each change. Only dyno would tell the full story in numbers but that's something even I don't have at my disposal. I haven't seen any powermod to these bikes that would actually drastically change the behaviour for better. The twitchy on/off throttle is something I would like a fix thouhg.
@@PatchedBandit even people who do have dynos tend to overlook important consequences. For example, someone does some mods and confirms 5% power increase. But they don't notice (or mention) that they suddenly have 20% worse fuel economy, or the engine starts to overheat more often, or the header pipe burns through for some reason, and so on. Are the mods worth it in the end, even when they seem to work? Of course everyone's entitled to their own fun, but I'd rather buy a more powerful bike than waste my time and money mutilating something I've overgrown. Twitchy throttle is a scourge of many fuel-injected bikes. Throttle tamers and fueling tweaks do work to some extent, though I figured it's simpler to just get used to it.
Good points on both. The throttle issue is not a problem offroading.. it's mostly just an annoyance in city riding. Also it has some 'flameouts' pretty often when trying to start moving from a standstill. That's even more annoying but luckily it doesn't happen a lot and it's a known issue with this machine. No bike is perfect :) I agree on that it's pretty pointless to try and pull more power from this engine. Better to upgrade the whole bike. Suspension upgrade to the Honda is money well spent in my opinion but everything else is debatable 😅
One more factor to consider is the state of the air filter. Last week i changed it on my 250 rally after a long time it hadn't been served. Top speed increased from 120 to 130+. My point is that if the air filter restricting the air flow, so even if the air box cover is wide open, the bottle neck which restricting the flow will still be the filter. What was the state of yours while testing? Thanks man
Excellent content! Was I surprised? Yes and no.... Seems like better airflow would yield more power, but these bike are engineered to perform at peak w/i the guidelines of pollution regulations... The engineers know what they are doing. So, not really surprised. Plus, doesn't the snorkel protect from water ingress??? I think you identified another source of the placebo affect..... kinda like putting a louder slipon muffler and assuming the bike is faster....
Exactly. And yes water ingress is much better protected when the snorkel reaches all the way to the bottom of the airbox. If by some reason this would have yielded a beneficial result I would have fabricated something myself but as it is I don't feel the need to do it. I do think I'm gonna try and fiddle with the gearing by going bigger on the rear sprocket. This would benefit the 0-80 km/h times where I spend most of my time on this bike 😄
Hi a quick - what i have done to my crf300l ! , no body on here talks about the on off throttle !!! bloody horrible , to my suprise just by fitting a straight through exhaust ( black widow ) it improved the notchy throttle alot , but what 90% fixed the throttle was a 550 performance reflash , i also fitted the snorkel from the road version of the crf , it has transformed the bike with lots of low revs grunt maybe a tiny bit flatter at the top end but well worth the sacrifice as it is now a pleasure to ride , i hope this helpful to some of you crf owners Richard from the uk
Thanks for the comment! I'm looking in to making some mods myself in the future and I fully agree on the throttle jerkiness it is the worst. I have even thought about making a full video about just that because I find it so annoying in city/town riding. It's not a problem offroading and being on the button but if I just want to pot along in the city it is pretty bad. I'm glad to hear those mods have helped the issue. I might do the exhaust next and see how it helps.
@@billybob1773 Hi billy bob i heard they were bad , maveric at 550 performance may be your man , If i had test riden the 300l before i bought i would not have !!!! i suppose this on off throttle is to help get through emmisions.
Good test? I just installed a twin air filter last night, after 4000km, the factory filter was very dirty. I did look at the intake pipe and wondered if the benefit of removal was worth it. I can see it's benefit in a brief water dunking.
I've been running a prefilter on dusty rides so mine is still good. Water ingress is the main use of the big stock snorkel and this is why I was wondering if I should install a second one to the same box. But without any other mods it doesn't seem worth it.
well euro 5 bikes come restricted from factory to be ok on emissions. So my guess is the snorkel alone will not have gains ( only improve engine life i think , run less hot ) ... but ading snorked with air filter , ecu remap and exhaust ... will get better performance and longevity to the engine.
@@PatchedBandit I'm going to explore TET Romania in two weeks. So I might end up with pillow under my ass too if I can't get local upholstery shop to improve my seat next week. :-)
Honda engineers have learnt a few things about 4 stroke tuning over the past 70 years, having completed in Moto GP, Formula 1, Indy cars and so forth. So it comes as no surprise the results didn't reveal any significant difference. There is a video about dyno results on the Crf250l which revealed no gain in power over stock, even with a so called performance exhaust. Gains were only achieved when the ecu was programmed to supply more fuel to complement the free flow. Considering the volumetric output is near 100 hp per litre stock, its not really underpowered, it simply lacks capacity, want more power, get a CRF 450.
Point of this video is to show that only opening up the air intake ”restrictions” will not yeld any power gains. People are throwong the snorkels out all the time so I made this video to demonstrate that it is not only pointless but also detremental to performance. Fully modding fueling, exhaust and other things to accompany better airflow is a completely dofferent video. I’m not saying one can’t get performance gains by doing all that.
@@PatchedBandit Great , I get it and well done . As I am looking at buying a crf 300 rally I was wondering if you had tried replacing the snorkel with a CBR intake boot which as I said requires grinding a larger hole in the air box to fit it. More air means drawing more fuel that seems like what those recommending the change are excited about. The other changes ie exhaust, ecu , etc no doubt would make a difference, just how much is as said you hard to determine without a dyno. Even guys who used a dyno found in consistent results. Cheers
Jake from the "TheGardenSnake" channel did all the mods one can do before adding a turbo and well.. to me it's fun for sure but the results are not worth it to me. Everyone needs to draw a line of which they won't cross modding this small little honda. One can throw all the money in the world at this and the gains are going to be very minor. At some point if the power is not enough it's better to buy a different bike. I'm even hesitating on swapping the exhaust as I'm probably gonna buy something else next year. (KTM 350-500 or Honda 450 etc..) Any mod I do to this bike is not gonna increase the resale price. Oh and no I have not tried any other intake mods as they need the ECU swap too.
@@PatchedBandit yeah the ecu would be a smart move .I have watched Jake ,your right doing all that is probably to much money to send,a 300 is a small bike and that should be how you look at it ,a light weight dual purpose with long life and reliability. The 450 or the KTM both require much more maintenance but might give you the power you're looking for, or just stick with the 300 and get that ecu .have you put in the fork kit a new rear shock . I should corect something I said before " more air means more fuel " that's would be corect for a carburetor engine, it would more than likely need different engine mapping for the injection motor on the 300. Cheers
I tried an identical crf300l to mine but with a yoshimura full system.My subjective "in the saddle" experience was this- Low RPM stock exhaust much better Yoshimura , bit more bog ,more noisy Mid RPM.about the same performance, A lot more noisey High RPM to full throttle , slight noticeable increase in performance.Nothing like the wild claims made by some.I have 2x 450/500enduro bikes and my CRF,fairly experienced with motorcycles and BS. Dont waste your money (nearly1k) on this crap.I changed the rear sprocket handlebars footrests and suspension.You will go much faster if you do this and practice trust me......
I've been using the 3 for the last year on my channel as my main shooter (usually chinmounted). It's easily the best actioncamera I have ever owned. 1. Super reliable so I don't loose footage which is the most important 2. Magnet clip mounting system is the best in the business 3. Transfering footage can be done via mobile app, usb'c cable or just direct from the card. It's easy and reliable as I don't need to process the files in some unstable app before using them (burn on insta360) All and all I'm very happy now to shoot with both the 3 and the newer 4 going forward.
@PatchedBandit Thanks for your reply! I inteed to buy action 4 but heard it has some overheat issue, and I am planning to use it for long time vlog, so it make me hesitated. Maybe I will wait and see more test about action 4.
Idea of this video was not to TUNE the bike in any way. The point of this video was to be an answer to many many people online saying that they gained power just by removing the snorkel from the airbox. So it's not to investigate the reason but to point out that it is not going to result in any performance gain. Honda does know how the stock tune is supposed to be built. I have a full tuning episode coming within the next 2 weeks so stick around 🙂
Considering that Yoshimura full race system promises 5.9% hp gains 15% seems a bit optimistic.. this being said I cant really say anything more as I have not tested either one 😁 would like to see some tests though… (sceptical until I see actual proof)
Test was to debunk people from destroying their airboxes. I have no doubt tuning of bikes work. This is just not the way. This is the way: ua-cam.com/video/-rdtfHX3i6k/v-deo.html
You can support my work for only €0.99/month Become a channel member here: ua-cam.com/channels/6hGP2VIz2D_m4ZTpKGmLPA.htmljoin Unlock Perks: - Early access to new videos - Loyalty badges - Custom Emojis in comments - Member perks on Discord
Only proper way to do a basic tune to this bike that actually works: ua-cam.com/video/-rdtfHX3i6k/v-deo.html Anything less than this is not even worth considering. If you want to have actual power not just sound this is the way to go. Without ECU tune these emission restricted bikes are not going to perform any better with any amount of airbox modification.
More air + more fuel (ECU remap) = more power. It’s not rocket science. However removing the snorkel and not replacing it is definitely a terrible idea
Waste of time like I thought it would be, I've watched tons of videos on people trying to get more power from a 300L and most of them end up being a placebo effect imo, jakethegardensnake has spent thousands and thousands on his and it's still not fast, people just need to accept the 300L is designed as a low power ultra reliable long service life engine, it's built into it's dna or design, if you want a lot more power stock with the option of getting considerably more again with mods the 450L is what you should have bought, I went from a 450L to a 300L because I just couldn't get past the service intervals (and a number of other things) the tiny amount of oil it holds to lubricate engine and trans is just ridiculous, but if you want power and torque it has it in spades comparatively.
Very well said. I am not convinced these powermods are 'worth the money'. I do understand that people (me too) want to tinker and still try but you are correct that putting that money towards a more suitable bike is probably more reasonable :) I'm pretty sure the only truly affective powermod to the 300L is to change the gearing. Putting a bigger sprocket in the rear for example if you don't need the top end of the bike for traveling etc. I'm probably going to gear mine slightly differently in the future to get more power in the 0-80 km/h range.
My bike isn't fast? Are any dirt bikes fast? Fast... this is a word, a silly one. Uh the bike gained something like 35% more power and around 5k had double the power it had stock. It will yank 3rd gear wheelies around 35-40 mph. Now the engine is built and it's super fun to ride. Reliability is still stupid high.
@@TheGardenSnake Good for you, I'm sure it's much more fun than the stocker.......just not to the extent to offset the obscene money and time invested, which was my point in mentioning your project. At the end of the day the engine is still a long stroke tractor motor lacking the valve area and low piston speed to produce high power figures for it's capacity.
Yes, you are right. I might put the 550 performance ecu and exhaust on this bike at some point and redo these tests. But because I'm not made of money I'm still thinking if it's worth it :)
@@PatchedBandit I have the CRF300 Rally version and was researching these options as well. I found some say the difference is significant, while others say it's totally not worth it from price/return perspective. I ended up agreeing with the later - not worth for couple additional HP. The only thing I would like to fix is throttle jerkiness. Planning to contact some local ECU tuners here in Lithuania and perhaps they could do the job.
@@ignasst The "snorkel" change that did actually make a difference was the change to the intake/airbox tract by changing it to one from the CBR300. He also changed the cams. The problem with that is the tract tuning on the CRF is biased to low revs ( frequencies) at lower airflows. The CRF has an incredible mild camming . For a reason. It is designed to be useful at low/mid rpm and the tract is designed for exactly that. The whole point is to make it tractable and not have to rev it guts out to make it work. Camming it and reworking it to work at bigger flows comes at the expense of lower rpm useability.
well. the snorkel accelerates airflow. so yes even if you performance ecu upgrade. thy will use a bigger snorkel but don't remove it. its about more than meets the eye. i let my t7 get tuned stage 2. thats what thy did and it increases by 4 hp. [not removing the catalytic converter] is it worth it. in my eyes its not. you should also remove the cat and you get more. then its worth it. still a steep investment in a few pony's. i got a 6 hp boost now. how ever not all country's allow this.
@@PatchedBandit yes. I did. At Carmo Electronics in the Netherlands. Great guy’s. Costs around 600 if thy don’t upgrade parts. For a bigger snorkel I payed 170 euro as its a different lid snorkel and airfilter. Decat I did my self
It’s daft which is why I made the video. I’ve seen so many people say they are running their crf without the snorkel for more power.. So yes. You got the point of the video.
It's like these guys that put cold air intakes on their trucks and insist the get more "power". What they get is a different sound. Same thing with this bike. I'm keeping my 300L stock as it does just fine...if you want more kick in the pants get a more powerful engine on another bike. You get all these dudes that buy this little campground cruiser and they want it to perform like a full sized touring bike. It's kind of laughable, actually.
Full CRF300 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLjuLZY6TnpPnQWrKL7vgN6eCmeAY5Ea4Z.html
Nice methodical approach! 👌Good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Its almost like the Honda engineers knew how to build the right airbox and snorkle.
Seems that way doesn't it 😅
It's almost like Honda engineers had noise and emission requirements to meet.
Yeah the reason it hurts the bike is because the ECU doesnt give it any fuel. They did this to meet emissions but these bikes run much better if you make them more free flowing. Give them more air and somewhere for it go and all you need is fuel to make significant power gains.
Terve. Thanks for the honesty!!! This comment is an emotional take on "grunt", torque or in Finnish "sitkeys" (no keys related) and vääntö.
"Let MORE air in by cutting the air box useless" gives me goosebumps when said with emotion. Reason being that, in my opinion the definition of "more" is wrong. Not many have it clear what "more" actually stands for. More is not having a bigger and a shorter hole (instead of a long pipe with funnels on both ends.)
Reason is air speed. Larger air speed generates more torque. Having a long thin'ish pipe for the inlet provides greater air speeds. Engine would anyhow sucks the air it needs. By having a pipe with funnels on both ends the flushing of the cylinders would get better. The speedy air goes more easily in and out from the engine.
This is also the reason why two strokes are picky about the exhaust. The chamber on the pipe resonates so it's supposed to "suck" gases out via correct timing of these resonating pulses. And this way to achieve better flushing of the cylinder gases and to have a better power curve.
So the speedier air flow brings more grunt to the power curve. Yes it would limit the maximum output by a fraction but, which one shows in the real world? +0.79hp in the absolute power maximum on a 500rpm top-end range or, more torque in all the non-maximum rpm range? I think this video speaks for itself.
Have a peek at old carburetors that are race spec. Rally cars or speedy bikes. Each one has an "acceleration funnel" to maximize the flow speed of inlet air. It's not simply just a big hole for a reason.
Please don't cut the air boxes of your engines useless. The 2nd hand owners would hate that kind of a mess.
So a big thanks for this realistic test and see u at the club ;)
@@johndear4639 are you a comedian or Russian bot? Very funny response either way.
Taking out snorkel may result in more turbulence as air enters the airbox. That would account for the increased noise and also explain reduced performance, especially at the higher speeds.
correct
Good experiment. Honda engineering is world-leading in most of their products. Fluid dynamic engineering went into the design of the intake and exhaust. Removing the intake snorkel violates Honda's "all-in" engineering and destroys the designed intake resonance. "All-in," the engine was designed to work with all its stock components together. Most mods and aftermarket products are Jethro! Your test showed that. How many videos have I watched where some backyard "engineer" removed the snorkel and drilled holes in the airbox to let the engine "breath better." Not too surprising who will win when Jethro takes on Honda engineering! Great video.
Thanks! 😊
From my experience screwing around, if you put an after market air filter and exaust and then do the airbox mod, it just makes the bike run leaner than it already does from the factory. Real gains are only made with EJK or ECU reflash. Just my opinion tho.
Greetings,
As always another brilliant detailed video production 🇺🇲🍾🎉🇺🇲
Keep producing more videos about the CRF
The bike is designed to run its best in standard trim the way it comes from the factory, but you can change ( improve) the power delivery and amount, but you have to change multiple things .
Yes. But many people dont believe this so I made my own test to show as best I could so people would stop drilling holes to their airboxes.
Great Video Idea actually showing us the results
Thanks! Very valuable information.
Several years ago I did the exhaust, intake and jetting mods to make 2001 Kawasaki 1500. The result was MORE NOISE, LESS POWER, LESS TOP SPEED, MUCH LESS MILES PER GALLON of fuel.
It was a huge disappointment!!!
I'm not surprised at all. I've professionally tested bikes and scooters all my working life. More or different noise (snorkel removed) influences a lot of people's perceptions. That's why a 2D-datarecording we used or a dyno are important to check your "feelings". Have a great Sunday, Günter/Nürnberg
Exactly! Thanks for commenting 🙏
Hi Günter, to be honest I was expecting a small increase in power. Assuming that the amount of air is increased the mass flow meter should detect this and the ECU should calculate more fuel which has to be injected.
I would like to know where I am thinking wrong. Or maybe the air mass flow is not even getting bigger?
Thanks and greetings from Aachen
@@superchargergo This is a wonderfuld field for tuning or an engineer. Could be that the standard airbox (despite some modifications) does not allow enough air into the engine. Maybe too small (obstacle), maybe too wide (less speed). Maybe the cylinder head (flange, valves) blocks more power. Tuning is a vast field and time-consuming. If it was as easy as a new airbox or a different slip-on... Happy rides, Günter/Nürnberg
Was not suprised. Air flow into the box by removing the snorkel gives a shape edge and probably a lot of turbulens. A smooth snorkel will let the air flow better into the box.
However, I bet a bigger diameter and shorter (3d printet) inlet track to the airbox will impove on stock, but more noise.
Honda have to take several point into consideration when designing the snorkel, induction noise and flow. It is probably the best compromise to meet all requieremnts.
Especially with the bike otherwise being stock. I wanted to raise the question is it a good idea to mutilate these airboxes especially if the bike is otherwise stock. I see so many videos of people drilling all kinds of holes and using glue to botch these separate holes on the side etc.
Water ingress will be a problem and they are probably not gaining any power.
Airflow + exhaust + ECU.. then we start to talk maybe some measurable differeces but I'm still sceptical on how much can we really get out of this even doing all 3. Cost is high and benefit is low from what I have seen.
@@PatchedBandit Agree to some extent. I've just got my Rally last week so still running in.
Small gains on a small output engine is still a gain. However, I was watching a Shonky productions vid where he tested a friends stock Rally after modding his bike. He was suprised on how good the stock actully was.
Im not sure now I want to do all the mods now, but I would really like a proper dyno session to smooth out the off throttle jerkiness. However, not eays with a EU ECU...
Seem like the tune is all about fuel and emissions, so lean.
First Im going to enjoy the bike as it is and do needed stuff first like handguards and maybe a softer seat. My arse is dead!
Nice video mate, I liked the way you tested it too. Well done.
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
@PatchedBandit enjoyed the good news video even more mate 💪
Well said! I would suspect the snorkel also helps keep dirt and water from getting on the air cleaner as easily. Who knows, just a thought.
That is also a very important job for the snorkel you are right! :)
great video. its accurate enough to determine if there are any significant gains or losses. I think that if you sat on the snorkel your bum dyno would forever more suffer from huge losses.
Very well made video showing actual results. If you were to open up the snorkel hole (or add another hole) , remove the backfire screen, add aftermarket filter, and use the CBR intake you will measure big gains.
I disagree on the 'big' part of that 😊 Jake the garden snake did absolutely everything on his and there was gains at some rpm levels but considering everything he did I think the gains were still pretty minor.
I'm not saying this bike can't be tuned but I am saying that just throwing away these snorkels is pointless and also asking the question is it really worth it to put thousands towards powermods? It's fun but.. worth the money? 😁
@@PatchedBandit disagree all you like, the big gains are still there. Just the snorkel is pointless, it takes a few simple changes to free up the intake. I measured the performance increase. 6th gear roll-on from 60-115 kmh was 3 seconds quicker. Jake only dynoed once and made huge gains in the mid range, not sure what you saw. A little on top. CBR boot was $30, after market filter is a no brainer for it's re-usability. Even the CBR cams are dirt cheap if you want to gain a bit more. I've also done the 550 ecu to compensate for the extra airflow. SO that was $150. 550 showed 20% more power on top when they dynoed the stage 1.5.
Sure sure 🙂 As I said it's fun to tinker but also its not like it comes cheap. Full exhaust, intake mods, 550 ecu etc.. Someone says it's worth it someone says its a lot of money for a cheap bike. Lets be generous and say the bike is 30hp instead of 27 after 1000 euros.. everyone needs to decide if it's worth it or not for themselves.
Not here to argue and I might do some mods to mine too at some point if I don't sell it.
Jake also did the big bore kit.
You don't even need exhaust or aftermarket filter for big gains. The hp per dollar is a bargain. $200 for the snorkel and stage 1 ecu and open up the intake. Jake dynoed before the big bore. Not here to argue either but what you said isn't factual. Which is surprising considering your attention to detail and consistency during testing. Peace out.
Thank you for making the video. Very beneficial. I like tests like these
Look into lamaner vs turbulent flow. I'm betting at the higher speed the air was "skipping" over the airbox hole with no snorkel. Would be interested to see if cutting the internal part of the snorkel off would help
Any variation should be tested separately. This video was mainly to simply answer if it is worth it to chuck the whole thing as I have seen some people do.
I might do some testing with a dyno later but repeating this as I did here is a lot of work and dyno would give more accurate readings 😊
Yea it's a lot of work to test. I do like your 5th gear method and check the time to speed. I was researching and came across your vid.
You did not factor revs, but from your figures we can maybe deduct that in mid-rev range the "no snorkel" mode is beneficial . You loose at the beginning of roll on, and at the end on the highest speed 130km/h, but reading your results 50-100 and 50-120 at most of the points "no snorkel" wins. We do not have 70-100 to be more precise, but this is my reading of your excel table.
The differences on those speeds are so small it is completely meaningless. I mean 0.2 parts of a second is not really something this test can varify to be anything else but normal measurement variation.
From this test I have no reason to believe any of the rev ranges is positively affected.
Half a second repeated would be something I would possibly conseed to be meaningful. But if the test shows the exact same on run 1 and tenth of a second difference in run 2 it's not really anything else but normal variation caused by the fact that this test is not done in a vacuum.
The top speed difference I could feel just by the fact that I had to ride a noticeably longer distance for the bike to reach 130.
Interesting. But to be fair to other testers I haven't seen any that have just removed the snorkel. The better tests have replaced the crf300 stack with the much bigger cb300 stack. They have also fitted high flow components such as air box lid and air filter. There have been a couple of testers who were quite thorough, one using a manometer to measure the vacuum effect of the restrictive stock components compared to high flow, and a Finnish guy who did full mods then used race timing equipment to measure several runs. Both these were very interesting. Good luck with your future testing.
That Finnish guy is me though.
ua-cam.com/video/-rdtfHX3i6k/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/0Dh0g1QIY7A/v-deo.html
The whole point of this video was to show everyone that they should not mutilate the airbox without doing any of the other mods. I've seen this happen a lot.
@@PatchedBandit You seem to have aged before this video was made! Haha, sorry for the mix up bro. Try to find the manomter one, that was good too, he tested while removing the individual components one by one and recorded how much difference each one made.
I saw the 'labtest' type of test of the airbox itself. That's not really all that black and white though. The resistance levels and all that goes in to designing these air intakes is a lot more complex than people like to assume. It's not all about how freely the system flows or not. Different rpm levels affect the results a lot too and how the whole system is configured.
Even if you remove the whole airbox and only leave the throttle manifold the bike is not gonna be faster because the tune is optimized for the stock setup.
I made this video originally because I saw a lot of posts online of people just mutilating their airboxes and thinking they have a lot faster bike which is definitely not the case.
I aged 10 years within 2 because of my health problems. Now I'm just happy to still be alive.
@@PatchedBandit From you: "people just mutilating their airboxes and thinking they have a lot faster bike which is definitely not the case". Definitely, I watched a couple of guys comparing a modified vs non-modified acceleration test in which the modified bike barely pulled away from the unmodified away from the unmodified one. I wondered if it was really worth the $1500 or so spent to modify the bike.
@aussiesam01 definitely worth it if you do it right ua-cam.com/video/0Dh0g1QIY7A/v-deo.html
Very Helpful - thanks much !
Very good testing method. It's as good as you get outside of a dyno room.
I've yet to see a Y.T. video reference the Bernoulli Equation, which describes the relationship between pressure, velocity and volume going through an orifice, such as a carburetor venturi.
Regarding intake and exhaust pipes, longer pipes before a header collector improve low-rpm torque; shorter pipes yield more high-rpm power ... due to 'scavaging' the exhaust ports' vacuum pulses after firing.
When folks remove this factory tuning, I've NEVER heard one admit to REDUCED low-rpm torque ... which may (probably?) explain the impaired results that your fine testing experienced. What little high-rpm power benefit may have been offset by reduced low-rpm torque.
Very possible! I felt the need to do this quick comparsion as I came across so many videos and posts online of people mutilating and drilling holes to their airboxes without doing anything else to the bike or fueling of the bike.
They are just ruining the bike at that point and it needs to stop 😄
@@PatchedBandit How many UA-camrs know MORE/BETTER than Honda engineers ... who've sold well over 100 million of their mini-moto engines (in various models), as of 2017 ? 😄
@@discoveror9576 With one caveat I agree. Engineers are restricted by the heavy regulation though and this is exactly why this CRF300 can be succesfully tuned with a bit of effort and money.
Shaved 5 seconds off my 30 to 120kmh time with the stage 1 tune from 550 performance.
Highly recommend that tune BUT it is ofcourse going to also get rid of every single emission restriction on the bike... some people hate this and I do get it.. ua-cam.com/video/0Dh0g1QIY7A/v-deo.html
Of course you're right. Every engine is designed for certain pressure values at intake and exhaust (backpressure), and removing snorkels or replacing pipes requires not only fueling adjustments, but also valve timings adjustments to be useful. It's actually a challenge to find a second-hand bike that doesn't have some stupid destructive "mods" that make it run poorly.
Well said! I made this video just to show people that drilling all kinds of holes to the airbox doesn't make any difference or can even be worse. I've seen so many videos of people only modding the airbox and saying the bike is faster without any real tests done.
Just with ass feel it is so hard if not even impossible to say if these bikes are 1hp more or less powerful especially as certain rev ranges can be affected differently with each change.
Only dyno would tell the full story in numbers but that's something even I don't have at my disposal. I haven't seen any powermod to these bikes that would actually drastically change the behaviour for better.
The twitchy on/off throttle is something I would like a fix thouhg.
@@PatchedBandit even people who do have dynos tend to overlook important consequences. For example, someone does some mods and confirms 5% power increase. But they don't notice (or mention) that they suddenly have 20% worse fuel economy, or the engine starts to overheat more often, or the header pipe burns through for some reason, and so on. Are the mods worth it in the end, even when they seem to work? Of course everyone's entitled to their own fun, but I'd rather buy a more powerful bike than waste my time and money mutilating something I've overgrown.
Twitchy throttle is a scourge of many fuel-injected bikes. Throttle tamers and fueling tweaks do work to some extent, though I figured it's simpler to just get used to it.
Good points on both. The throttle issue is not a problem offroading.. it's mostly just an annoyance in city riding. Also it has some 'flameouts' pretty often when trying to start moving from a standstill. That's even more annoying but luckily it doesn't happen a lot and it's a known issue with this machine.
No bike is perfect :) I agree on that it's pretty pointless to try and pull more power from this engine. Better to upgrade the whole bike. Suspension upgrade to the Honda is money well spent in my opinion but everything else is debatable 😅
One more factor to consider is the state of the air filter.
Last week i changed it on my 250 rally after a long time it hadn't been served.
Top speed increased from 120 to 130+.
My point is that if the air filter restricting the air flow, so even if the air box cover is wide open, the bottle neck which restricting the flow will still be the filter.
What was the state of yours while testing?
Thanks man
Clean filter 😊
As far as I know, the snorkel acts like an old-school velocity stack.
Excellent content! Was I surprised? Yes and no....
Seems like better airflow would yield more power, but these bike are engineered to perform at peak w/i the guidelines of pollution regulations... The engineers know what they are doing. So, not really surprised. Plus, doesn't the snorkel protect from water ingress???
I think you identified another source of the placebo affect..... kinda like putting a louder slipon muffler and assuming the bike is faster....
Exactly. And yes water ingress is much better protected when the snorkel reaches all the way to the bottom of the airbox.
If by some reason this would have yielded a beneficial result I would have fabricated something myself but as it is I don't feel the need to do it.
I do think I'm gonna try and fiddle with the gearing by going bigger on the rear sprocket. This would benefit the 0-80 km/h times where I spend most of my time on this bike 😄
Bash! Thank you.
Hi a quick - what i have done to my crf300l ! , no body on here talks about the on off throttle !!! bloody horrible , to my suprise just by fitting a straight through exhaust ( black widow ) it improved the notchy throttle alot , but what 90% fixed the throttle was a 550 performance reflash , i also fitted the snorkel from the road version of the crf , it has transformed the bike with lots of low revs grunt maybe a tiny bit flatter at the top end but well worth the sacrifice as it is now a pleasure to ride , i hope this helpful to some of you crf owners Richard from the uk
Thanks for the comment! I'm looking in to making some mods myself in the future and I fully agree on the throttle jerkiness it is the worst. I have even thought about making a full video about just that because I find it so annoying in city/town riding.
It's not a problem offroading and being on the button but if I just want to pot along in the city it is pretty bad.
I'm glad to hear those mods have helped the issue. I might do the exhaust next and see how it helps.
You think jerky on/off throttle is bad on a 300L try a 450L, will give a new appreciation.
@@billybob1773 Hi billy bob i heard they were bad , maveric at 550 performance may be your man , If i had test riden the 300l before i bought i would not have !!!! i suppose this on off throttle is to help get through emmisions.
Thanks, very useful
Great video, I'm curious as to how you did the timing vs speed.
Synced the cameras (not as important) and Recorded the instrument cluster with a gopro at 120fps. The timing should be 99% perfect 😊
good job.
I would like to see same test with EJK and not with the factory too lean fuelling.
True! With tune this would turn out very different no doubt!
If I can get my hands on some other powermods I’m gonna do follow up videos!
Good test? I just installed a twin air filter last night, after 4000km, the factory filter was very dirty. I did look at the intake pipe and wondered if the benefit of removal was worth it. I can see it's benefit in a brief water dunking.
I've been running a prefilter on dusty rides so mine is still good. Water ingress is the main use of the big stock snorkel and this is why I was wondering if I should install a second one to the same box.
But without any other mods it doesn't seem worth it.
well euro 5 bikes come restricted from factory to be ok on emissions. So my guess is the snorkel alone will not have gains ( only improve engine life i think , run less hot ) ... but ading snorked with air filter , ecu remap and exhaust ... will get better performance and longevity to the engine.
I doubt engine longevity on these motors is a concern anyone should bother themselves too much 🙂 These things will run forever and ever if maintained.
Well done 💙💛🏁🤛🏼
Thanks 🫡😄
There are only two things I really need to modify on my CRF300L. Seat and suspension.
True. Would love to test some other seats 😅 I met one crf rider in Romania and he had an actual pillow under his ass 😂😂
@@PatchedBandit I'm going to explore TET Romania in two weeks. So I might end up with pillow under my ass too if I can't get local upholstery shop to improve my seat next week. :-)
Thanks, interesting video.
Glad you think so!
Hear the difference. Louder sound makes ass dyno feel better
Very true. Disliked the sound though.. too growly with all the intake noise.
Honda engineers have learnt a few things about 4 stroke tuning over the past 70 years, having completed in Moto GP, Formula 1, Indy cars and so forth. So it comes as no surprise the results didn't reveal any significant difference. There is a video about dyno results on the Crf250l which revealed no gain in power over stock, even with a so called performance exhaust. Gains were only achieved when the ecu was programmed to supply more fuel to complement the free flow.
Considering the volumetric output is near 100 hp per litre stock, its not really underpowered, it simply lacks capacity, want more power, get a CRF 450.
Fully agree! Thanks for the insightful comment 🙂
Did you add the Cbr inlet change that other say makes a difference, possibly because the airbox has to be altered to fit the Cbr intake.
Point of this video is to show that only opening up the air intake ”restrictions” will not yeld any power gains. People are throwong the snorkels out all the time so I made this video to demonstrate that it is not only pointless but also detremental to performance.
Fully modding fueling, exhaust and other things to accompany better airflow is a completely dofferent video. I’m not saying one can’t get performance gains by doing all that.
@@PatchedBandit Great , I get it and well done . As I am looking at buying a crf 300 rally I was wondering if you had tried replacing the snorkel with a CBR intake boot which as I said requires grinding a larger hole in the air box to fit it. More air means drawing more fuel that seems like what those recommending the change are excited about. The other changes ie exhaust, ecu , etc no doubt would make a difference, just how much is as said you hard to determine without a dyno. Even guys who used a dyno found in consistent results.
Cheers
Jake from the "TheGardenSnake" channel did all the mods one can do before adding a turbo and well.. to me it's fun for sure but the results are not worth it to me. Everyone needs to draw a line of which they won't cross modding this small little honda.
One can throw all the money in the world at this and the gains are going to be very minor. At some point if the power is not enough it's better to buy a different bike.
I'm even hesitating on swapping the exhaust as I'm probably gonna buy something else next year. (KTM 350-500 or Honda 450 etc..)
Any mod I do to this bike is not gonna increase the resale price. Oh and no I have not tried any other intake mods as they need the ECU swap too.
@@PatchedBandit yeah the ecu would be a smart move .I have watched Jake ,your right doing all that is probably to much money to send,a 300 is a small bike and that should be how you look at it ,a light weight dual purpose with long life and reliability.
The 450 or the KTM both require much more maintenance but might give you the power you're looking for, or just stick with the 300 and get that ecu .have you put in the fork kit a new rear shock .
I should corect something I said before " more air means more fuel " that's would be corect for a carburetor engine, it would more than likely need different engine mapping for the injection motor on the 300.
Cheers
550 ecu and yoshi race pipes is on the 'maybe next' list :)
I tried an identical crf300l to mine but with a yoshimura full system.My subjective "in the saddle" experience was this-
Low RPM stock exhaust much better Yoshimura , bit more bog ,more noisy
Mid RPM.about the same performance, A lot more noisey
High RPM to full throttle , slight noticeable increase in performance.Nothing like the wild claims made by some.I have 2x 450/500enduro bikes and my CRF,fairly experienced with motorcycles and BS.
Dont waste your money (nearly1k) on this crap.I changed the rear sprocket handlebars footrests and suspension.You will go much faster if you do this and practice trust me......
Did you use action 3 to record it while riding? How do you think about it?
I've been using the 3 for the last year on my channel as my main shooter (usually chinmounted).
It's easily the best actioncamera I have ever owned.
1. Super reliable so I don't loose footage which is the most important
2. Magnet clip mounting system is the best in the business
3. Transfering footage can be done via mobile app, usb'c cable or just direct from the card. It's easy and reliable as I don't need to process the files in some unstable app before using them (burn on insta360)
All and all I'm very happy now to shoot with both the 3 and the newer 4 going forward.
@PatchedBandit Thanks for your reply! I inteed to buy action 4 but heard it has some overheat issue, and I am planning to use it for long time vlog, so it make me hesitated. Maybe I will wait and see more test about action 4.
Interesting, but you didn't take account the positive or negative air flow. Maybe there's a lack of positive airflow.
Idea of this video was not to TUNE the bike in any way. The point of this video was to be an answer to many many people online saying that they gained power just by removing the snorkel from the airbox. So it's not to investigate the reason but to point out that it is not going to result in any performance gain.
Honda does know how the stock tune is supposed to be built.
I have a full tuning episode coming within the next 2 weeks so stick around 🙂
What do you think of Graves Motorsports claim of 15% power gains from their exhaust system?
Considering that Yoshimura full race system promises 5.9% hp gains 15% seems a bit optimistic.. this being said I cant really say anything more as I have not tested either one 😁 would like to see some tests though… (sceptical until I see actual proof)
@@PatchedBandit There’s a dyno test on their website. I’d like to see a third party test too.
The test should have been increase flow at the air intake and exhaust flow to see a difference
Test was to debunk people from destroying their airboxes. I have no doubt tuning of bikes work. This is just not the way.
This is the way: ua-cam.com/video/-rdtfHX3i6k/v-deo.html
Thx for the facts. obviously honda engineers have no idea what they have been doing selling bikes forever. lol
Seemed logical
I am surprised because I would’ve sworn that my bike felt quicker
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It would have been interesting not to remove it, but simply to shorten it
Only proper way to do a basic tune to this bike that actually works: ua-cam.com/video/-rdtfHX3i6k/v-deo.html
Anything less than this is not even worth considering. If you want to have actual power not just sound this is the way to go.
Without ECU tune these emission restricted bikes are not going to perform any better with any amount of airbox modification.
More air + more fuel (ECU remap) = more power. It’s not rocket science. However removing the snorkel and not replacing it is definitely a terrible idea
Waste of time like I thought it would be, I've watched tons of videos on people trying to get more power from a 300L and most of them end up being a placebo effect imo, jakethegardensnake has spent thousands and thousands on his and it's still not fast, people just need to accept the 300L is designed as a low power ultra reliable long service life engine, it's built into it's dna or design, if you want a lot more power stock with the option of getting considerably more again with mods the 450L is what you should have bought, I went from a 450L to a 300L because I just couldn't get past the service intervals (and a number of other things) the tiny amount of oil it holds to lubricate engine and trans is just ridiculous, but if you want power and torque it has it in spades comparatively.
Very well said. I am not convinced these powermods are 'worth the money'. I do understand that people (me too) want to tinker and still try but you are correct that putting that money towards a more suitable bike is probably more reasonable :)
I'm pretty sure the only truly affective powermod to the 300L is to change the gearing. Putting a bigger sprocket in the rear for example if you don't need the top end of the bike for traveling etc.
I'm probably going to gear mine slightly differently in the future to get more power in the 0-80 km/h range.
My bike isn't fast? Are any dirt bikes fast? Fast... this is a word, a silly one. Uh the bike gained something like 35% more power and around 5k had double the power it had stock. It will yank 3rd gear wheelies around 35-40 mph. Now the engine is built and it's super fun to ride. Reliability is still stupid high.
@@TheGardenSnake Good for you, I'm sure it's much more fun than the stocker.......just not to the extent to offset the obscene money and time invested, which was my point in mentioning your project.
At the end of the day the engine is still a long stroke tractor motor lacking the valve area and low piston speed to produce high power figures for it's capacity.
Such mods should be done along with ECU remap, otherwise engine is running wrong air/fuel ratio. Nice test though!
Yes, you are right. I might put the 550 performance ecu and exhaust on this bike at some point and redo these tests.
But because I'm not made of money I'm still thinking if it's worth it :)
@@PatchedBandit I have the CRF300 Rally version and was researching these options as well. I found some say the difference is significant, while others say it's totally not worth it from price/return perspective. I ended up agreeing with the later - not worth for couple additional HP. The only thing I would like to fix is throttle jerkiness. Planning to contact some local ECU tuners here in Lithuania and perhaps they could do the job.
This is bothering me too. Some say buying the Yoshi full exhaust would also help but its expensive too and might also be bs.
@@ignasst The "snorkel" change that did actually make a difference was the change to the intake/airbox tract by changing it to one from the CBR300. He also changed the cams. The problem with that is the tract tuning on the CRF is biased to low revs ( frequencies) at lower airflows. The CRF has an incredible mild camming . For a reason. It is designed to be useful at low/mid rpm and the tract is designed for exactly that. The whole point is to make it tractable and not have to rev it guts out to make it work. Camming it and reworking it to work at bigger flows comes at the expense of lower rpm useability.
Прикольное поучительное развлекательное. Топчик
Спасибо 🙏
well. the snorkel accelerates airflow. so yes even if you performance ecu upgrade. thy will use a bigger snorkel but don't remove it.
its about more than meets the eye. i let my t7 get tuned stage 2. thats what thy did and it increases by 4 hp. [not removing the catalytic converter] is it worth it. in my eyes its not. you should also remove the cat and you get more. then its worth it. still a steep investment in a few pony's. i got a 6 hp boost now. how ever not all country's allow this.
Did you dyno the results?
@@PatchedBandit yes. I did. At Carmo Electronics in the Netherlands. Great guy’s. Costs around 600 if thy don’t upgrade parts. For a bigger snorkel I payed 170 euro as its a different lid snorkel and airfilter. Decat I did my self
zero snorkle is daft - do you know why air intakes are set to lengths and diameters? seriously wtf
It’s daft which is why I made the video. I’ve seen so many people say they are running their crf without the snorkel for more power..
So yes. You got the point of the video.
A person can sink all the money they want to in these bikes , and at the end of the day , its still a 300.
Very true 👍
NOTHING YOU GET NOTHING !!
Nico Test. Thx 👍🙏
My pleasure!
It's like these guys that put cold air intakes on their trucks and insist the get more "power". What they get is a different sound. Same thing with this bike. I'm keeping my 300L stock as it does just fine...if you want more kick in the pants get a more powerful engine on another bike. You get all these dudes that buy this little campground cruiser and they want it to perform like a full sized touring bike. It's kind of laughable, actually.