How to Replace Carrier Bearing and Ujoints on a 1st Gen Tundra - What a Pain!!!
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- Опубліковано 10 чер 2020
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#ToyotaTundra #CarrierBearingReplacement #TundraUJoint
Carrier Bearing Replacement -Can we be honest? It's kind of a pain on a 2005 Toyota Tundra. It's a little more complicated than most, because we had to use a press to remove a u-joint under the truck in order to remove the axle and the carrier bearing.
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Well we got it back together after one more trip to parts store. If you want to see what we got ourselves into now click the link ua-cam.com/video/97op_V9DxFs/v-deo.html
I missed the premiere....Never had to replace a carrier bearing, but I know how to now! Thanks for sharing guys!
Thank you for the support and the view.
Thanks! Have a 2wd needing this, and like you said nobody else did a video on one.
Thanks for the comment! We hope the video helps you! If you like seeing a truck go from a totalled vehicle to completely repaired, check out our other rebuild videos. Appreciate the support and please consider subscribing if you haven't already.
Great vid guys. Excellent work.
Appreciate the support brother.
Just did this on a 2017 last night, pulled the entire driveline into the garage which made this a very easy (but time consuming) job. Mine was pretty shot. Glad I did it myself instead of paying someone.
Heck yeah thats awesome. Glad it worked out for you and glad you seaved yourself some cash. Love it brother. Keep getting after it.
Good job on the video guys. Im sure you realized it would have been alot easier to drop the whole shaft and take it inside. That way you can service all 3 U-joints and the carrier on the bench.
If you watch the whole way we do take it completely out and replace the ujoints on the bench. Appreciate the support.
That's what I did, took whole shaft out it works out fine
Thanks for doing a video on this! Awesome
Absolutely hope it helped. Also check out our latest build. We are coyote swapping a 95 f150. ua-cam.com/video/X_giMZoR6P8/v-deo.html
thank you guys for a great video, im about to tackle this job myself and you guys are a GOD send!!!
Love it. Good luck. Thanks for comment and support.
It actually helped a lot thanks guys
Cool brother. Thanks for the comment. Appreciate it. Keep getting after it brother.
Thanks for the video
Absolutely brother. Thank you for the support brother.
I got tired of changing those damn things over the years, finally ordered a Tom Woods driveshaft. No more screwing with carrier bearings and no more vibration.
Sounds like you have more experience than us with them. Appreciate the support and the info. Keep getting after it brother.
Great camera work, dialogue, and sound effects. The scary looking makeup was amazing 😉. Good job guys!!
Not sure whatcha mean about the make up but thanks for the support.
JMR Rebuilders It wasn’t makeup? Masks? 😁
I'm missing something?
JMR Rebuilders Obviously my failed attempt at humor...☹️
Ok gotcha. So sorry
This is a good tutorial video!
Thanks guys appreciate a big channel like yall supporting us little guys.
Nice vid, debating whether to attempt this myself or pay a G for someone else to do it. Have an 05 an like you mentioned before most are for other years. So this helps a lot. Thanks for posting
Good luck. Take the time and read the comments there are alot of guys who have added some great info. Good luck to you brother. KEEP GETTING AFTER IT.
Just remove the entire drive shaft, there is no reason to mark the driveshaft. 4 bolts on rear 2 bolts on carrier bearing then push drive shaft forward then take rear off. None of this is hard!
Great helps
Appreciated
Thanks guys
Absolutely brother. Hope it helps you and good luck.
Great video. Looks like the 2wds don't have the bolted flange, right at the carrier? This is why you had to remove the U joint?
That may be the reason. Thanks for the feed back we appreciate it. Please consider subscribing if you havent.
My question is, how did you know that those were bad? What issue were you having with the truck? Did you get a vibration while you were decelerating? That’s the problem that I’m having and that’s why I’m watching your video. Great job guys.
Yeahhe had some abnormal vibrations. Also we got up under and was able to see how much play was in the assembly. Good luck with it and thanks for comment and support
@@JMRRebuilders thank you for the very fast response
How many miles do you think i should check my ujoints and carrier bearing? got 2015 tundra 4x4 w/74k miles on it. I do grease them every year sometimes twice a year.
That's a hard one to answer. Sometimes they can last years. The key is proper lubricantion for sure. The more ujoints you have the higher probability of failure. Hope this helps and good luck to ya brother.
You installed the new bearing upside down. At 3:28 you can see on the old bearing that there's one hole facing the ground in the center of the bracket. At 14:35 you can see on the new bearing there are two holes facing the ground... those should be facing up. The two halves of the metal bracket are not symmetrical, so your upside down bearing puts the shaft out of alignment.
Thanks for watching and for catching that. Weapprecuate the support.
Hey guys this video was filmed a few months back. We hope you enjoy it. If you do please comment, like and share. Also please dont forget to subscribe and hit the bell to get notified when we drop more amazing JMR content.
What a pain indeed, you guys have patience though. I also need to replace my Carrier Bearing (2001 First Gen Tundra), it has the same play as yours had.
Question: I get a 'Clunk" when I turn sharply or twist the frame. Could it be because of the play in the 'Carrier Bearing'? I've hated that clunk for several years because I can't find it's source.
Brian
It's possible this too had a clunk when we would accelerate. Good luck to you and thanks for the comment and support
Clunk comes from the rear leaf springs. Get some new pads for them.
Axle wrap characteristics. I got a helper spring, made it less noticeable.
What did u do about a new carrier bearing was that replaced in the video?
Yes we did replace it. We may have speed that o
Process up since it was the same as removal. Hope the video helps and good luck to you
I do have to do mine soon what size socket did you use to get the nut off?
Unfortunately it was such a long time ago I have forgotten. It was probably a 15 mm or larger. Sorry nit much help. Good luck to ya
14mm
Looks like the same issue I have, however I’m talking about the new bearing that’s on the vehicle,,, Iv replaced mine goin on four times, having said that I have replaced rear end , unjoints etc. I believe like others that the correct bearing is obtained by Toyota unfortunately,,,, it’s almost 400 bucks here in Mississippi
That is unfortunate situation. I hope you get it sorted and good luck to ya buddy
Here's some info on the OEM bearings that are made by Spicer.
www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2NUFZDZQQLI08/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00GAPFESW
bearings are simple devices. if you want them to work no matter the brand clean them and pack with quality grease. as its really the only difference in cheap bearings. cheap grease that doesnt protect the metal surfaces
Quick question did you press it back on or how did you do it
We used a deep well socket I believe and press ed it in with a hammer. I could be wrong it wasnt that bad. Just be careful of the threads on the end.
I managed to replace that Durango upper control arm with the help of that Jeep video. Must of done something wrong, took me 6 hours, it took you guys all of 20 minutes. 😳. 😆
MOVIE MAGIC my friend. I think nearly every project we do requires at least one new tool and a trip to the parts store. I think the only exception has been our video on converting from a 26 to 36 gallon gas tank. Check it out! ua-cam.com/video/n-O0enX5K8M/v-deo.html
Yeah definitely something you did wrong. Of course it took us 2 days and we had youtube time. But ya thats all you. Awesome brother glad we could help. Aoprecuate the support and keep getting after it brother.
Could you please give a link to the parts?
Here is the ujoints
www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOI8BDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_6JW8JPR8BDHKWXD4XRDM
Here is the carrier bearing
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-oe-solutions-3387/wheel-bearings-hub-assy-seals-25107/center-support-bearing-11384/4e1ee17c90cb/dorman-oe-solutions-drive-shaft-center-support-bearing/934401/4261620/2005/toyota/tundra?pos=2
I enjoyed the music,I tried to use the link to the music but it does not sound like the music in the video
No clue on that one above my pay grade. That's a Jason thing.
How do you know if it's bad? What are the symptoms?
Well the sign for us was under hard acceleration there was significant vibration. So then I got under the truck and grabbed the drive shaft and it had significant play in the carrier bearing. Good luck to you brother.
Did the carrier bearing roar similar to a wheel bearing?
It was really only on heavy acceleration that it was noticeable
Thanks for the question/ comment. It really does help our channel! Consider subscribing if you find our content fun and entertaining! -jason
I replaced mine a few months ago on my 05 Tundra and it's going out again as it has a lot of play now. I bought mine from Auto Zone (regretting it now). I did pull my entire drive shaft which made it easier to deal with. Despite the poor quality carrier bearing from Auto Zone you can't beat their tool rental policy. The part is under warranty for 3 years, but I'm going to try and get a credit and buy a better quality bearing online.
Are your u joints ok. I would check those they may have caused the failure. We used an autozone one as we and have not had any problems. Good luck with yours brother.
Is the new bearing press on or did it just slide on....
Pretty sure it just slid on. Thanks for the question!
Whay happens if you pull the shaft out the trans mission?
We were told Trans fluid would come out, but we didn't test it. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Are you still working on the F-150?
Yes we are but I'm going on vacation so we are dropping filler videos until I get back. Stay tuned for more red rocket and out next build will be revealed soon
Did you catch the grab hold method reference?
How did you end up getting the carrier bearing on it?
We pressed it on if I remember correctly it slid on no problem. Thanks for comment and support
Would have been nice to show the play (or lack thereof) in the new bearing.
Hey Austin. Great suggestion... Maybe next time
Greasable or non-greasable u-joints?
I dont remember honestly. But your better off getting greaseable if they are avalible for this application. Thanks for the support
Bro Orange Co. I just to work for Fleet management
Cool brother.
What would happen if if the drive shaft came out of the transmission
From what we understood is it is possible for the tranny fluid to come out and apparently on these trucks incredibly hard to add. Honestly this is all speculation so we chose to just leave it in. Thanks for comment and support
My truck has been through several carrier bearings, by myself and a shop when I did it I removed it from the transmission no fluid came out and I worked on a bench. Could I have changed the balance by not putting it back in the transmission the same spot?
carrier bearing is installed upside down. The single hole should be at the ground or bottom and the two holes facing the upwards to the truck. just went through the same thing on a 2006 sr5. It will cause a slight vibration as the bearing is slightly different in the opposite direction. Just thought id help.
That is a good catch. I rewatched this video several times and it would appear initially the bearing was installed one hole down. We did install it with 2 holes down. However it has not affected the ride of the truck or cause any vibration. We do appreciate the sharp eye and pointing that out. So if anyone else continues to have the vibration that could be a cause.
I think that’s what my mechanic did it , he changed the center bearing Suport and the u join, and is shaking probably the same as before .
He never mark the driveshaft as you this guy did it, it cut be other problem , I am right?
Well first off we aren't professionals and would never want to speak negatively about another without seeing the work. There is a good chance its upside down or a good chance he didn't put it back in right or even a good chance he did all that and a u joint is bad. Honestly without seeing it can't say brother. Chances are he did it right and there is a bad ujoint. Hope it helps.
you two look like twins
Well now that's a new one. Thanks for comment a d support.
You can’t remove the whole assembly and do it on the bench instead?
No unfortuantely we can not. That would remove it from the transmission. That would cause the fluid to leak and the process for that is extremely difficult.
@@JMRRebuilders good to know, thanks ?
Should just pulled entire driveshaft out and did all the work on the bench and replace all three u joints (front near transmission, center at carrrier, and rear at differential). If one is bad, they are all bad. TRQ has a good video on doing this job. However, your video was more clear on pressing out the joints and your method of pulling the yoke and carrier versus a stupid hammer is a much better idea and causes much less damage.
Thanks for the comment and feedback. We were under the impression that pulling it would cause issues for us. However it worked out. Good luck on yours and thanks for watching
Your not supposed to clamp the drive shaft in the vice like that it could damage or throw it off balance
Good point thanks for comment
You don’t need to do all this. No need to disconnect from rear differential or transmission
There are many ways to do the job. Thanks for comment and support
Wouldn't it be less expensive to buy a brand new shaft and ujoints and install them your selff with the bushing already on the new shaft?
Not sure it would have. The business were only 20 bucks all in the repair was less than 150 bucks. Not sure you can get all that.for cheaper. Good luck
now i know i won't do one of those thank you
It aint that bad. Good luck.
Tech Tip take the whole drive shaft out from the truck as a unit and work on it on the bench!
It's been a while since we did this project...but if I remember correctly, we wanted to do that. But we're told not to, because pulling the front yoke could let out fluid from the transmission. So on advise and caution.. we did the project under the truck. Thanks for the nice comment and for watching!
Guys, you do understand that drive shafts are balanced individually and not as a single unit. you can put as much chalk on them as you like but it makes zero difference
Cool brother thanks for the comment. Have a great weekend.
Of course we do! I believe the idea was to put it back in the same orientation because then there is no chance of there being an issue with our repair. Seems logical. -jason
The yoke at the carrier bearing is splined without a blank so it's important to mark it so the yokes remain in phase with each other
For as long as Spicer has been around you would think they knew better
Stay away from Autozone u-joints and carrier bearings. Spicer u-joints are made by Dana Corporation, an American company that is been around since the early 1900s. Get the u-joints with grease fittings.
Great info and completely agree. Unfortunately we are done with the job and so far had 0 issues. But that is great info. Thanks for the comment brother.
@@JMRRebuilders: I understand when you need to get someone back in the road, but so much if this is preventable by simply replacing u-joints and associated parts soon after 100k as a preventive maintenance. Summit racing carries Spicer. Napa is another retailer, but careful on the country or origin on their u-provider (hint hint China).
Whenever I read the word china I do it with a particular voice in my head
@@JMRRebuildersFor most things in our households, we accept that. However, for auto parts? I’ll pass at every opportunity...hahaha
Carquest, formerly Advance AutomParts, carry Spicer bearings at even a lower price than the competition. Got mine from them, it is the same one Toyota uses....
I'm a fat guy also, why didn't you use jack stands?? Heee. Wouldn't have been easier to remove the hole shift?? You guys are great, average Joes, 4 trips tp the part place!!
For some reason it is not letting me comment on your post. We didn't take the shaft completely out because of the process for getting the transmission fluid correct. Fat guys need love too.
Much easier to pull the whole driveshaft out of transmission.
If that works for you thats great. Fortunately we did it without doing that. Appreciate the support brother.
Always O’Reilly, never Auto zone in my experience.
Thats so true. They are usually far better. Appreciate the support and comment.
Oe is best. Spicer Dana for 70 shipped
The one thing I came to see was the carrier bearing removal.
Well not sure did we include that?
@@JMRRebuilders no...but a healthy few doses of percussive therapy did the trick
Well there ya go so its a win win.
So many close ups of beards. Netflix has nothing on this.
Heck yea beards for life. Thanks brother
That no f150 lol
No we are taking a couple weeks off. I will be oit of town for a bit. We got one more filler video and then we will be back on the red rocket. Also have a new build we will have to introduce soon as well. She already has a name the Grey Goose
Man we have no luck coming up with project names yal keep at it, we headed up to smokies this weekend with the 2 Chevrolet trucks
Yeah saw that yall mentioned it. Good luck hope they sell
Ryan is an infinite wealth of nicknames and catch phrases!!!
30 secgundos y ya un anuncio???🤢🤮🤮🤮
Yeah man helps us feed our cats. Gotta keep them Gatos happy.
@@JMRRebuilders pa darle de comer a mis gatos yo trabajo!!😂🤣😂