As a complete newb to chainsawing, Hurricane Ian dropped a 90' Norfolk pine in my yard and of course all sorts of oak, jacaranda, and pepper trees.... I didnt understand just how easily chains will dull until you stuck your bar into the gravel for just a moment and then demonstrated how it refused to cut!!!! Here i had blamed the sudden inability to easily cut on me not keeping the bar straight.... Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Guys, apart from learning a lot about the trade, I love your videos because I find myself lifted by how you act towards each other. There is a supportive, positive atmosphere, soaked in kindness in all your videos, and somehow that touches me! God bless you all
By far the most informative chain sharpening video on UA-cam, it answered so many questions I never even knew how to ask. Absolutely brilliant thank you. I am actually looking forward to sharpening my chains now.
Not sure why I love these videos so much, I have never even owned a chain saw😂, I drive boats for a living (towboats/barges). I suppose I just love the type of work you guys are doing and I love that you take it so seriously and professionally.👍 I think if I were starting out again and young, I would love to have explored what you’re doing for a living.
Guys thanks a lot! We had three tornados in our little town of Seneca SC and I really appreciate you teaching us these skills. My saw got a lot of work today, helping someone much less fortunate than I. We were untouched but our town was tore up pretty good. My little Stihl 251 performed admirably however definitely needs a good sharpening. Thanks again
I didn't know anything about chainsaw chains, wondering why my saw is not cutting, and now I feel like I have a chance thanks to you guys sticking your saw in the dirt, thank you so much!
Bucking Billy is the first one I heard mention the importance of removing the gullet metal. I’ve used many methods of sharpening with success but my favorite is still the first, Granberg file and joint, but if you’re in a hurry and on site, The Stihl two in one Easy chain filer is the best. It is carried under different brand names but Pferd makes them all.
When I started thinning pines in New Zealand, I thought that, if I took the rakers down hard it would cut faster, and it did. Then, about a week later my chain started to break, every day. Now I hand file the teeth, but use a guage for the rakers, got good cutting speed, and my chains last months. I use Stihl chain mostly.
Just found this channel and love it. Great technique on sharpening, I’m the guy on the crew who gets stuck with touching up the blades, I’m ambidextrous, anyway I recently found out that Fiskars is a super old company in Europe and started out making swords for the knights! And I love how the handle wraps the head instead of going through
Thanks for awesome video! I appreciate the thorough discussion on the use of files and raker guides. Being a new subscriber, I also grateful for your honesty, straight foreword talk and no egos. I.e. talking to me as if I was standing there & not down to me. Great camera work too.
Just did a first sharpen with quided round file. Gave me an extra 5 minutes of gas time compared to stock! About to try taking the gullet out. Can't wait to see the improvement in efficiency. Thanks for the tutorial, it's given me the confidence to remove the guide and have at it
You guys are very very knowledgeable about everything I've seen you do. I give you props, because not many people out there are as dedicated as you guys.
Your reason for using the guide is correct. I was using the 7/32 file that Buck recommends. I got a great C gullet but was not getting the top plate. Using the guide I got the top plate (and burrs) and corrected my angle. With just the file my angle was to shallow. I sometimes have to first do the gullet then the top to get the correct profile but not sure I even have to do the gullet. Thank you, only took me 10 years to figure out how to sharpen a saw correctly.
"I knew the stock chain was bad..." I hate stock chains too. I consider new chains dull, and if it is slightly dulled from brand new, I consider it unusable until its been touched up. If you need to apply pressure to get a saw to cut, its time to sharpen. I re-profile the teeth, keeping the C shape with the C as Buckin describes and making the top of the tooth very steep. Less drag in the wood and starts cutting instantly, no sliding around and when the arc of the tooth is proper, doesn't get stuck in cuts. However, it is tricky to get the tooth that steep and keep the proper arc, took me a long time to get the knack. It makes the saw very forgiving of inconsistency in sharpening and awesome for angle cuts, doesn't slide and cuts faster. Then drop the rakers based on the saw and your chains is tuned to your saw. Absolutely wonderful to work with. However, kickback is something that you need to be able to handle, because if you get it wrong, the saw can kick harder. When you get it right, the saw has less kickback as the force is going into cutting inseat of throwing the bar up. If I do any significant work on a chain I always make a test cut before working with it if at all possible, just in case.
I didnt learn to file both ways until recently, I was shamed by the guys that work with me and finally picked it up. It allows you to file in the field without a vice. Nice tips practice make perfect stay safe!
but the vice is so much better! and though i can do without, i feel so much worse without(particularly the top handles). vice is key for me. we have them on the chippers
Your the first person who has explained raker depth in relation to how much or many strokes you take per tooth...I have watched countless videos and you made it makes sense...I use to just touch all the rakers every 2-3 sharpens but I will now match raker depth to the tooth..I have guides for the depth gauges but honestly I hate using them. Guess if I have a chain cutting crooked or pulling right or left I need to be more consistent with my depth gauges.
More than likely if your chain is cutting crooked first thing to check is tension, then is the bar worn out and letti g the chain roll to one side or the other, then check your angle it gonna pull to the side with longer cutting edge, then rakers, a single not the set to the same depth, can cause it to cut crooked
Great stuff, thanks for taking the time. One of the better vids I've seen on how to properly sharpen the chain and why the little things matter, can't believe how much faster it cut. Well done!
So I had this tree to cut down, and I was given 6 hours so now I've watched 4 hours worth of chainsaw sharpening videos... :D Seriously though, I'm always trying to up my sharpening game and this is definitely one of the best vids I've seen on the subject. Thank you. Timing the cuts sure puts a lot into perspective.
Round file everytime, and no need for the guide once you understand the need for a gullet. Also using the 5/32 makes it easier to avoid damaging the top plate. Great video love seeing your method brother!
Very effective demonstration on how to dull a chain, at the beginning of the video. .... never seen that done... i.e. before and after demo... Great! I had also noticed that phenomena about the Oregon gauge... like it wasn't sharpening all the way, so I started focusing on freehand............. I think I will try your method of gauge+freehand. Thanks for the great video.
Your 661 is as loud as mine is. Thanks for the info. I have been using a 7/32 round file to sharpen my saws for the past 55 years and this is the first time I have hears of square filing a chain. The tension of the chain makes a difference on the sharpness of the chain. Thanks again fgor the education.
I use the same gig. I’ve done a lot of testing and my preferred method on 3/8 chisel chain is a 13/64 gig with a 7/32 file. Gives a nice hook and gets the gullet. The file sits lower on the tooth with the 13/64 gig with 7/32 file. I also switched to 30 degree top plate rather then 25. I don’t know where 25 degree came from but if you look at the stihl chain guide manual they are all 30 degrees. I could tell a big difference in cutting speed and how the chain feed thru the wood. Way better in my opinion. I also use the husky raker gauge. It’s the plate one. It indexes on one tooth so each raker is set to that tooth. When you hand file your teeth are different lengths. The raker gauges that indexes on multiple teeth that are different lengths don’t work well in my opinion on hand filed chain. Good video guys. We speak the same language ha.
good tips! I think angle depends on wood and temperature - frozen vs thawed (maybe my hands cold wanting to get a job done?). I'm just cutting west coast soft wood, so the steeper angle works for me too ... East coast hard wood, maybe a different story though, or frozen too ... Funny, but I watched this video and he sharpens and has the same mind as me. But, was too scared to try hand filing square cut ... previous video ... but that video gave me confidence to try. I agree square cut is a little faster, as my friend had the silvey grinder, and that chain was a bit faster. Great video's though. I hope people just starting out can see it, and it isn't over their heads. I'm getting old and the ported 32cc saw with 12" bar is much easier, but slower ... don't even run a 562 much anymore ... thanks for the tips.
@@rockkhound943 My cousin has a crew cab square with a 12v Cummins and a 5 speed. Awesome truck. Makes me wanna sell my ‘85 short box...but then it doesn’t lol
Enjoy your teaching comments from experience videos like these! Both of your personalities are so cool... no arrogance or my way is the only way... just honest comments and opinion. You should hear my wife... what is it with all these chainsaw videos??? I just enjoy sharing all of your experiences.... takes me back to when I was a lot younger!
Nice dude. Thanks for such great info and tips. I make locust fences for a living and let me tell you sharpening a chainsaw twice a day sucks balls and making angle cuts, and plunge cuts, and sharpening in the field 90% of the time, and i knew i needed to get my chains sharper and just didn’t know how. Great info
i had no idea just a little bit of dirt could f up your chain so quick. i've learned so much from your videos, you are the one youtube chainsaw guy i really trust (you and in-bred jed)
The goal is to separate the fibers of the wood with as little friction as possible. You'll get increased friction from dull teeth, for sure. Novices have a tendency to focus on the top plate, but it's only purpose is to lift the fibers (assuming a bucking cut). The side plate then follows by actually breaking the tree fibers and removing the chip. You'll see the same movements when using a hand chisel, though the steps are reverse. (First breaking into the fibers, and then clearing by lifting with the grain.) Reducing friction is why the top plate is pitched down (no need to drag the entire plate against the wood). As a result, the rakers have to be adjusted as that top plate wears down to maintain chip depth. One suggestion: pull the round file into the tooth from the leading edge. Your video shows the file grinding from the back of the tooth, which can leave a "lip" edge on the side plate. You'll feel it with your fingernail on the side plate. When that occurs, I'll take a flat file parallel to the side plate with the tooth up at the nose. Getting that lip removed will reduce friction at the side plate and result in cleaner cuts against the tree grain.
It is decades, rather than just years since I was earning a living with a chainsaw (and indeed being paid to teach other people how to use a chainsaw), but I always ground from the back of the tooth to the front, as they do here, which, yes, would often leave a little burr of metal on the cutting surface, but then my last action was to break this burr off, by striking the cutting edge with the base of the handle of the file…. It is a bit tricky to describe, but it quickly becomes second nature, and this would leave a razor sharp cutting edge with no burrs. I always used a guide, even when mocked by others with far more experience than me, because I ALWAYS found the chainsaw would cut better and for longer after I sharpened using a guide than without.
Helpful video guys. Probably too late to add a comment, but other videos say "keep your chain out of the dirt" and you were leaning on yours with the tip in the dirt, like a walking stick!
I use the Oregon file guide. Have for 40 years. They're cheap, easy to use and remedy the biggest problem I see myself and others have. Keeping the file at the right height. Not to much hook, but just enough. Gullets are really only something you need to deal with on square ground chisel. I only round file my smaller saws. I use my Silvey Pro Sharp square grinder on the bigger saws. Also use a Silvey raker grinder. Look at the tooth under a light. If the cutting edge reflects light, it's dull.
Being a gunsmith I got a head start on how to use hand files especially on critical surfaces. But I enjoy watching videos like this because everyone can still learn and steal someone else’s technique
Well you are a professional cutter using a chainsaw, There is a large proportion of residential users that only use their chainsaw a few times a year. And I have no doubt that your method of Sharpening a chainsaw produces a faster Cut. But that is not the only consideration. Kick back. And safety are also factors.And it is my guess that the larger gullet.As you describe it produces a safercut for novice chainsaw users such as myself. Thank you for a very informative video on how to properly sharpen a chainsaw blade. Take care. 👍👍👍
Anyone can do a clip & show you in their opinion what they think will sharpen a chain, but when you stick a perfectly good chain in the dirt to demonstrate what happens- that's sacrifice for the benefit of others! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I also appreciate you pointing out there can be many differences in rakers. Although it really messes with my OCD, this is one thing I had to accept for optimal performance.
Interesting you are the only person I have seen that sharpens like I do. I am 64 and have sharpened a couple of chains. The only thing is, I do it in the opposite order. I use the file without the guide first to get my gullet and then just take a couple of fine swipes on the top cutting edge with the guide. This is a final dressing of the main cutting edge. Also I move a little slower and with more pressure when filing. I like using a magnifier to check the edge. No big deal we probably get the same result. I think it is the best system
Nobody speaks of how long it takes to wear out a file, it get so it doesn’t cut, just rubs, it gets shinny, you can see it. Doing my 20 in” bar, the file starts to wear out after about 3 sharping, also I use a file guide, and rotate it to get a better filing surface, and wire brush to clean file with brass brush each use. I think it is great instruction for filing.
i tried the 'sharpen the cullet' trick on my 500i today, a big old but im carving into a wizard. Wow, definitely an improvement. thanks for the tip and keep the videos coming. avid subscriber here!
Good to see that Inbred Jed isn't so inbred , so cool to see , the crew in action in more than just cutting trees. Want to see more educational stuff from you guys, you're all the best. I subscribed to your channel.
First, that method will entice you in with socialist spending and free filing programs. Get you dependent on "fairness" of each chain tooth being equally mediocre, remove your will to be more sharp than the other teeth, then whammo --- full blown 28" bar communism.
When you have done it awhile free handed you can get the top and the gullet at the same time. And no I’m not a timer cutter I ran a poultry shaving mill for a decade or better. If I’d been a west coast guy I’d been a timber cutter love cutting wood for some weird reason. I’m just getting into square filing and Jed has some good videos. Keep up the good content brother
All your techniques will help a measurable amount, but part of the extreme success of the final product was leaning into the saw more on the last cut as evidenced by the difference in RPMs between the two cookies. If you listen you can hear it. Still very sound advice that would still make a measurable difference even if you didn't lean into it as much. Thanks for the thorough explanation of the steps. Very helpful.
Glad to see how it’s done with the file. I have the same guide and a brand new chain on a Husqvarna 56. I will use the guide from now on. And carving the gullet out? Who knew.? I had never seen a top plate / raker guide.
Thanks for the video. I stopped using a file gauge and wondered why I was getting too much hook on my gullet despite using the correct file size and sharpening technique - turns out I was pushing down too hard. Cheers bud
Hi guys!.....nice jobe you are doing...and thx for all those experiments with sharpung the chains....this days i ve been watching a lot of youres video... and i learn some tips and trikcs.....thx a lot
It doesn't make enough of a difference if you know how to file. I would hate to have to but your chains filing a tooth twenty times. You can do in four strokes what you can't in twenty. You do put a small amount of up pressure on your file. Notice your hands are rocking back and forth as you are filing. Constant pressure on front hand as back hand. Forty years of cutting told me so.
The double pictures the one was fresh cut end the other was a older pic. Not the same log or it still would have looked as fresh unless he took 2 days to file. Wouldn't want to pay him by the hour
@@jeffmartinez8720 Jeff, We were all thinking those points and you said it. Buuttt, for young guys, they have a lot of good experience between them. Stay safe...
Filing the top of the cutter is to remove the burr off the top plate. This happens when you are using a file that is a wee bit small, whereas the next file size up doesn't make the right shaped hook. There is varying size files, and in filing a chain there will be a cutter size that is in between the 7/32 (aka the 14/64) and the next size down 13/64. They don't make a 27/128 size file.
I always take take the damage off first then then concentrate on the fine details on the last few stokes, no guide needed. I’m also lucky that I can change hands for each side.
Absolutely agree with the rackers being to aggressive actually cutting slower alot of the time. Once the saw gets into big wood it pulls the saw down from the top of the powerband obviously creating less chain speed. My favorite setup is an 044/440 with 8 tooth sprocket, 28" bar and full skip chain set at .025.
Is everyone one just going to ignore the fact that with the first cut with the new stock chain he’s running the saw most of the time at or near the rev limiter? In combination with the fact that he doesn’t change the angle of approach for the saw nearly at all towards the bottom section of the cut? Other than the slightly skewed test ;) ;) a great video all in all. Always interesting to see how everyone has their own little tricks and preferences.
I wish there was more detail, and actual pointing at the part they're talking about, because when the tooth is 1/20 the width of the screen, or less, it is far from clear which bit they are actually talking about, and I have a couple of Huskies and have been sawing for about 15 years, but only recently started sharpening my own saws - I _think_ I know what they're talking about, but some sections were far from clear - "look at that" ..... they know what they're talking about, and apparently it is "obvious", to them at least.
I would like to see someone do a video using a 3" PVC pipe as a file. And a wood carved saw link. The real chains are pretty small to demonstrate the nuances of sharpening. Your thoughts ? Thanks.
As a complete newb to chainsawing, Hurricane Ian dropped a 90' Norfolk pine in my yard and of course all sorts of oak, jacaranda, and pepper trees.... I didnt understand just how easily chains will dull until you stuck your bar into the gravel for just a moment and then demonstrated how it refused to cut!!!! Here i had blamed the sudden inability to easily cut on me not keeping the bar straight....
Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Guys, apart from learning a lot about the trade, I love your videos because I find myself lifted by how you act towards each other. There is a supportive, positive atmosphere, soaked in kindness in all your videos, and somehow that touches me! God bless you all
By far the most informative chain sharpening video on UA-cam, it answered so many questions I never even knew how to ask. Absolutely brilliant thank you. I am actually looking forward to sharpening my chains now.
Not sure why I love these videos so much, I have never even owned a chain saw😂, I drive boats for a living (towboats/barges). I suppose I just love the type of work you guys are doing and I love that you take it so seriously and professionally.👍 I think if I were starting out again and young, I would love to have explored what you’re doing for a living.
Jake and Jed (R.I.P.) are great and knowledgeable guys...
Guys thanks a lot! We had three tornados in our little town of Seneca SC and I really appreciate you teaching us these skills. My saw got a lot of work today, helping someone much less fortunate than I. We were untouched but our town was tore up pretty good. My little Stihl 251 performed admirably however definitely needs a good sharpening. Thanks again
I didn't know anything about chainsaw chains, wondering why my saw is not cutting, and now I feel like I have a chance thanks to you guys sticking your saw in the dirt, thank you so much!
Bucking Billy is the first one I heard mention the importance of removing the gullet metal. I’ve used many methods of sharpening with success but my favorite is still the first, Granberg file and joint, but if you’re in a hurry and on site, The Stihl two in one Easy chain filer is the best. It is carried under different brand names but Pferd makes them all.
Hey brother I'm from California and I'm so thankful I found your videos I love how you explain everything in details. Thank you blessing.
As Buckin Billy says - "get the gullet". Well done there. Good demo of getting the gullet properly.
right on Billy... keep that gullet clean! how do you like a roller guide?
Buckin is the $hit
@benl😮😮😮😮ager710
There’s no way id ever voluntarily blunt a brand new chain, you guys must be nuts x-)
Absolutely the best video on chainsaw cutter sharpening. Very descriptive, detailed and the close ups make it make sense.
I started doing my chain sharpening, wow, what a difference.
This is the only video I have found on doing this .
Thanks guys, very valuable.
There's dozens of videos on that...or even hundreds. But okay lol
Great job guys! It is great to see young people taking an interest in real work and knowing what they are doing!
When I started thinning pines in New Zealand, I thought that, if I took the rakers down hard it would cut faster, and it did. Then, about a week later my chain started to break, every day. Now I hand file the teeth, but use a guage for the rakers, got good cutting speed, and my chains last months. I use Stihl chain mostly.
Just found this channel and love it. Great technique on sharpening, I’m the guy on the crew who gets stuck with touching up the blades, I’m ambidextrous, anyway I recently found out that Fiskars is a super old company in Europe and started out making swords for the knights! And I love how the handle wraps the head instead of going through
Thanks for awesome video! I appreciate the thorough discussion on the use of files and raker guides. Being a new subscriber, I also grateful for your honesty, straight foreword talk and no egos. I.e. talking to me as if I was standing there & not down to me. Great camera work too.
Thank you! :)
Just did a first sharpen with quided round file. Gave me an extra 5 minutes of gas time compared to stock!
About to try taking the gullet out. Can't wait to see the improvement in efficiency.
Thanks for the tutorial, it's given me the confidence to remove the guide and have at it
You guys are very very knowledgeable about everything I've seen you do. I give you props, because not many people out there are as dedicated as you guys.
Buckin Billy Ray_ "get the gullet" Thanks guys, nice job.
Your reason for using the guide is correct. I was using the 7/32 file that Buck recommends. I got a great C gullet but was not getting the top plate. Using the guide I got the top plate (and burrs) and corrected my angle. With just the file my angle was to shallow. I sometimes have to first do the gullet then the top to get the correct profile but not sure I even have to do the gullet. Thank you, only took me 10 years to figure out how to sharpen a saw correctly.
You are the most helpful UA-camr out there! Thank you so much for all this free information it's chain saving
"I knew the stock chain was bad..." I hate stock chains too. I consider new chains dull, and if it is slightly dulled from brand new, I consider it unusable until its been touched up. If you need to apply pressure to get a saw to cut, its time to sharpen.
I re-profile the teeth, keeping the C shape with the C as Buckin describes and making the top of the tooth very steep. Less drag in the wood and starts cutting instantly, no sliding around and when the arc of the tooth is proper, doesn't get stuck in cuts. However, it is tricky to get the tooth that steep and keep the proper arc, took me a long time to get the knack. It makes the saw very forgiving of inconsistency in sharpening and awesome for angle cuts, doesn't slide and cuts faster.
Then drop the rakers based on the saw and your chains is tuned to your saw. Absolutely wonderful to work with.
However, kickback is something that you need to be able to handle, because if you get it wrong, the saw can kick harder. When you get it right, the saw has less kickback as the force is going into cutting inseat of throwing the bar up. If I do any significant work on a chain I always make a test cut before working with it if at all possible, just in case.
"Don't sharpen like a communist." You just earned an East coast sub with that quote.
And lost all his Seattle jobs.
@@ILikeFreedomYo LMAO
@@ILikeFreedomYo LOL😂😂
@@ILikeFreedomYo LMAO
tghh
I didnt learn to file both ways until recently, I was shamed by the guys that work with me and finally picked it up. It allows you to file in the field without a vice. Nice tips practice make perfect stay safe!
but the vice is so much better! and though i can do without, i feel so much worse without(particularly the top handles). vice is key for me. we have them on the chippers
Your the first person who has explained raker depth in relation to how much or many strokes you take per tooth...I have watched countless videos and you made it makes sense...I use to just touch all the rakers every 2-3 sharpens but I will now match raker depth to the tooth..I have guides for the depth gauges but honestly I hate using them. Guess if I have a chain cutting crooked or pulling right or left I need to be more consistent with my depth gauges.
More than likely if your chain is cutting crooked first thing to check is tension, then is the bar worn out and letti g the chain roll to one side or the other, then check your angle it gonna pull to the side with longer cutting edge, then rakers, a single not the set to the same depth, can cause it to cut crooked
Great stuff, thanks for taking the time. One of the better vids I've seen on how to properly sharpen the chain and why the little things matter, can't believe how much faster it cut. Well done!
So I had this tree to cut down, and I was given 6 hours so now I've watched 4 hours worth of chainsaw sharpening videos... :D Seriously though, I'm always trying to up my sharpening game and this is definitely one of the best vids I've seen on the subject. Thank you. Timing the cuts sure puts a lot into perspective.
RIP Jed
Love ur videos, great explanation. as always ,
Condolences to his family
and work colleagues from John mc govern in Ireland
Round file everytime, and no need for the guide once you understand the need for a gullet. Also using the 5/32 makes it easier to avoid damaging the top plate. Great video love seeing your method brother!
Very effective demonstration on how to dull a chain, at the beginning of the video. .... never seen that done... i.e. before and after demo... Great!
I had also noticed that phenomena about the Oregon gauge... like it wasn't sharpening all the way, so I started focusing on freehand............. I think I will try your method of gauge+freehand. Thanks for the great video.
Your 661 is as loud as mine is. Thanks for the info. I have been using a 7/32 round file to sharpen my saws for the past 55 years and this is the first time I have hears of square filing a chain. The tension of the chain makes a difference on the sharpness of the chain. Thanks again fgor the education.
Found your Chanel this morning. Your doing a great job. Watched couple of your videos will be back for more. Keep up the great work. Thank you
You found his perfume? What was it? Eau de pine?
Your camera work is excellent attention to detail is excellent thank you
Great video, covers a lot of details that took me a long time to learn on my own. This is gonna save people a lot of frustration :)
I use the same gig. I’ve done a lot of testing and my preferred method on 3/8 chisel chain is a 13/64 gig with a 7/32 file. Gives a nice hook and gets the gullet. The file sits lower on the tooth with the 13/64 gig with 7/32 file. I also switched to 30 degree top plate rather then 25. I don’t know where 25 degree came from but if you look at the stihl chain guide manual they are all 30 degrees. I could tell a big difference in cutting speed and how the chain feed thru the wood. Way better in my opinion. I also use the husky raker gauge. It’s the plate one. It indexes on one tooth so each raker is set to that tooth. When you hand file your teeth are different lengths. The raker gauges that indexes on multiple teeth that are different lengths don’t work well in my opinion on hand filed chain. Good video guys. We speak the same language ha.
I’ll have to try 30! That’s how I sharpen my top handles, don’t know why 25 on the big saws either 🤷♂️
good tips! I think angle depends on wood and temperature - frozen vs thawed (maybe my hands cold wanting to get a job done?). I'm just cutting west coast soft wood, so the steeper angle works for me too ... East coast hard wood, maybe a different story though, or frozen too ... Funny, but I watched this video and he sharpens and has the same mind as me. But, was too scared to try hand filing square cut ... previous video ... but that video gave me confidence to try. I agree square cut is a little faster, as my friend had the silvey grinder, and that chain was a bit faster. Great video's though. I hope people just starting out can see it, and it isn't over their heads. I'm getting old and the ported 32cc saw with 12" bar is much easier, but slower ... don't even run a 562 much anymore ... thanks for the tips.
I really enjoy the detailed explanations on all of your videos. Well done, gentlemen! Thank you
Love to watch the wood flow out that saw!!!! Thanks for the simple and effective demonstration and information
Long live the square body Chevy! Good video guys👍🏻
Omg that crew cab was beautiful. I have one similar mines a 79
@@rockkhound943 My cousin has a crew cab square with a 12v Cummins and a 5 speed. Awesome truck. Makes me wanna sell my ‘85 short box...but then it doesn’t lol
@@xpslinger8171 nice man ...thats a cool swap
Enjoy your teaching comments from experience videos like these! Both of your personalities are so cool... no arrogance or my way is the only way... just honest comments and opinion. You should hear my wife... what is it with all these chainsaw videos??? I just enjoy sharing all of your experiences.... takes me back to when I was a lot younger!
Nice dude. Thanks for such great info and tips. I make locust fences for a living and let me tell you sharpening a chainsaw twice a day sucks balls and making angle cuts, and plunge cuts, and sharpening in the field 90% of the time, and i knew i needed to get my chains sharper and just didn’t know how. Great info
This is awesome. I've never been able to sharpen a chain as good as a new one, so I can't wait to try these techniques out.
You should with practice get better than factory, but his vice should be taler, about 4”, so he is not bending over so much.
i had no idea just a little bit of dirt could f up your chain so quick. i've learned so much from your videos, you are the one youtube chainsaw guy i really trust (you and in-bred jed)
Nice video, Really shedding light to those goofballs who think a chain is the sharpest it will ever be right out of the box.
It's like the idiots who don't sharpen a new lawnmower blade because they think it is perfect from the factory.
The goal is to separate the fibers of the wood with as little friction as possible. You'll get increased friction from dull teeth, for sure. Novices have a tendency to focus on the top plate, but it's only purpose is to lift the fibers (assuming a bucking cut). The side plate then follows by actually breaking the tree fibers and removing the chip. You'll see the same movements when using a hand chisel, though the steps are reverse. (First breaking into the fibers, and then clearing by lifting with the grain.) Reducing friction is why the top plate is pitched down (no need to drag the entire plate against the wood). As a result, the rakers have to be adjusted as that top plate wears down to maintain chip depth. One suggestion: pull the round file into the tooth from the leading edge. Your video shows the file grinding from the back of the tooth, which can leave a "lip" edge on the side plate. You'll feel it with your fingernail on the side plate. When that occurs, I'll take a flat file parallel to the side plate with the tooth up at the nose. Getting that lip removed will reduce friction at the side plate and result in cleaner cuts against the tree grain.
It is decades, rather than just years since I was earning a living with a chainsaw (and indeed being paid to teach other people how to use a chainsaw), but I always ground from the back of the tooth to the front, as they do here, which, yes, would often leave a little burr of metal on the cutting surface, but then my last action was to break this burr off, by striking the cutting edge with the base of the handle of the file…. It is a bit tricky to describe, but it quickly becomes second nature, and this would leave a razor sharp cutting edge with no burrs. I always used a guide, even when mocked by others with far more experience than me, because I ALWAYS found the chainsaw would cut better and for longer after I sharpened using a guide than without.
You guys make great videos. What makes it easy to remember is you explain the ‘why’ of it so it makes sense!
Very good video. I like your explanation on the main objective when sharpening a chain, and you proved your point regarding getting the gullet. 👍🏼
Buckin' Get the Gullet! Learning a lot from you guys.
Love the icons in the shop.
Very informative video.
Much respect.☦
Helpful video guys. Probably too late to add a comment, but other videos say "keep your chain out of the dirt" and you were leaning on yours with the tip in the dirt, like a walking stick!
I use the Oregon file guide. Have for 40 years. They're cheap, easy to use and remedy the biggest problem I see myself and others have. Keeping the file at the right height. Not to much hook, but just enough. Gullets are really only something you need to deal with on square ground chisel. I only round file my smaller saws. I use my Silvey Pro Sharp square grinder on the bigger saws. Also use a Silvey raker grinder. Look at the tooth under a light. If the cutting edge reflects light, it's dull.
You definitely have to worry about the gullet on a round filed chain too
@@bobbyhempel1513 Not true. The round file removes the gullets as you sharpen.
Thanks guys! Going into my first season with the Forest service and it will be nice to have some idea how to care for a chain
I follow Buckin' Billy Ray's sharpening video to the letter. This one is good too, but my man Bill has the filing on point.
Being a gunsmith I got a head start on how to use hand files especially on critical surfaces. But I enjoy watching videos like this because everyone can still learn and steal someone else’s technique
Well you are a professional cutter using a chainsaw, There is a large proportion of residential users that only use their chainsaw a few times a year. And I have no doubt that your method of Sharpening a chainsaw produces a faster Cut. But that is not the only consideration. Kick back.
And safety are also factors.And it is my guess that the larger gullet.As you describe it produces a safercut for novice chainsaw users such as myself. Thank you for a very informative video on how to properly sharpen a chainsaw blade. Take care. 👍👍👍
Great video guys on the tree felling as well as the chain sharpening. I really appreciate it that there was not even one syllable of profanity.
Thank you for sharing your professional experiences. Learned so much. Yall work great together. Team work. Airborne!
I Love to see this vídeo for two reasons:
- The CATHOLIC Icons on the background
- The content and explanation
They're not Catholic. Sorry.
Jed needs his own you tube channel. Dude can climb
I actually gasped a little when you stuck that chain in the dirt.
Anyone can do a clip & show you in their opinion what they think will sharpen a chain, but when you stick a perfectly good chain in the dirt to demonstrate what happens- that's sacrifice for the benefit of others! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I also appreciate you pointing out there can be many differences in rakers. Although it really messes with my OCD, this is one thing I had to accept for optimal performance.
Interesting you are the only person I have seen that sharpens like I do. I am 64 and have sharpened a couple of chains. The only thing is, I do it in the opposite order. I use the file without the guide first to get my gullet and then just take a couple of fine swipes on the top cutting edge with the guide. This is a final dressing of the main cutting edge. Also I move a little slower and with more pressure when filing. I like using a magnifier to check the edge. No big deal we probably get the same result. I think it is the best system
Nobody speaks of how long it takes to wear out a file, it get so it doesn’t cut, just rubs, it gets shinny, you can see it. Doing my 20 in” bar, the file starts to wear out after about 3 sharping, also I use a file guide, and rotate it to get a better filing surface, and wire brush to clean file with brass brush each use. I think it is great instruction for filing.
Thank you so much, only just starting out in the industry and this video really helped
This has helped me alot with my sharpening and cutting. Big thanks!
man this gives me flashbacks to when my dad showed me how to sharpen a chain when i was 10. word for word but with more swearing hahahaha.
Oh man, are we long lost brothers?
Sure...
Lol
I Love watching you guys, both of you are wicked smart. I learn so much, thanks!
That was crazy! Thanks again for making this video I learned a lot. Treeson sharp > stock sharp. 👊🏼
i tried the 'sharpen the cullet' trick on my 500i today, a big old but im carving into a wizard. Wow, definitely an improvement. thanks for the tip and keep the videos coming. avid subscriber here!
Good to see that Inbred Jed isn't so inbred , so cool to see , the crew in action in more than just cutting trees. Want to see more educational stuff from you guys, you're all the best. I subscribed to your channel.
"Don't sharpen like a communist." is the best thing I've ever heard in a saw video. 😂
First, that method will entice you in with socialist spending and free filing programs. Get you dependent on "fairness" of each chain tooth being equally mediocre, remove your will to be more sharp than the other teeth, then whammo --- full blown 28" bar communism.
When you have done it awhile free handed you can get the top and the gullet at the same time. And no I’m not a timer cutter I ran a poultry shaving mill for a decade or better. If I’d been a west coast guy I’d been a timber cutter love cutting wood for some weird reason. I’m just getting into square filing and Jed has some good videos. Keep up the good content brother
All your techniques will help a measurable amount, but part of the extreme success of the final product was leaning into the saw more on the last cut as evidenced by the difference in RPMs between the two cookies. If you listen you can hear it. Still very sound advice that would still make a measurable difference even if you didn't lean into it as much. Thanks for the thorough explanation of the steps. Very helpful.
Love your videos boys, great way to learn how it's done..👍 from Australia
Glad to see how it’s done with the file. I have the same guide and a brand new chain on a Husqvarna 56. I will use the guide from now on.
And carving the gullet out?
Who knew.?
I had never seen a top plate / raker guide.
Young and Professional. Subscribed
Thanks for the video. I stopped using a file gauge and wondered why I was getting too much hook on my gullet despite using the correct file size and sharpening technique - turns out I was pushing down too hard. Cheers bud
Interesting video guys, Im looking forward to Jeds square cut time. Enjoy your videos
Hi guys!.....nice jobe you are doing...and thx for all those experiments with sharpung the chains....this days i ve been watching a lot of youres video... and i learn some tips and trikcs.....thx a lot
Awesome to hear!
I really appreciated all of the knowledge shared in this video. Thanks
Wow, l never expected that taking the gullet out makes that much difference. Thanks for the trick man 🤙🏻
Georg Schweiger a lot of people don’t know:) happy to help!
It doesn't make enough of a difference if you know how to file. I would hate to have to but your chains filing a tooth twenty times. You can do in four strokes what you can't in twenty. You do put a small amount of up pressure on your file. Notice your hands are rocking back and forth as you are filing. Constant pressure on front hand as back hand. Forty years of cutting told me so.
The double pictures the one was fresh cut end the other was a older pic. Not the same log or it still would have looked as fresh unless he took 2 days to file. Wouldn't want to pay him by the hour
@@jeffmartinez8720 Jeff, We were all thinking those points and you said it. Buuttt, for young guys, they have a lot of good experience between them. Stay safe...
“Just stick it in there and go to town”. Got it!
That’s what she said 5:55 🤩
18:58 “you like those Fiskars?”
Man I wanted to hear that spin off into an axe discussion... edit jump, immediately let down 😂
SAME. DARNIT!
but, rabbit hole averted!! ha!!
Filing the top of the cutter is to remove the burr off the top plate. This happens when you are using a file that is a wee bit small, whereas the next file size up doesn't make the right shaped hook. There is varying size files, and in filing a chain there will be a cutter size that is in between the 7/32 (aka the 14/64) and the next size down 13/64. They don't make a 27/128 size file.
Good to see the young guns coming up and staying sharp!
Also would be nice to check out surfaces of the cut wood section. Just curiosity!!!
Thank you for the video!
I always take take the damage off first then then concentrate on the fine details on the last few stokes, no guide needed. I’m also lucky that I can change hands for each side.
This makes total sense... Thanks!
⁷
You guys rock. Shout out from the East Coast.
Loving the Jesus Christus in the background
Absolutely agree with the rackers being to aggressive actually cutting slower alot of the time. Once the saw gets into big wood it pulls the saw down from the top of the powerband obviously creating less chain speed. My favorite setup is an 044/440 with 8 tooth sprocket, 28" bar and full skip chain set at .025.
I do hate stock Oregon chains lol. Good explanation with examples and references. Love your channel.
Is everyone one just going to ignore the fact that with the first cut with the new stock chain he’s running the saw most of the time at or near the rev limiter? In combination with the fact that he doesn’t change the angle of approach for the saw nearly at all towards the bottom section of the cut? Other than the slightly skewed test ;) ;) a great video all in all. Always interesting to see how everyone has their own little tricks and preferences.
I wish there was more detail, and actual pointing at the part they're talking about, because when the tooth is 1/20 the width of the screen, or less, it is far from clear which bit they are actually talking about, and I have a couple of Huskies and have been sawing for about 15 years, but only recently started sharpening my own saws - I _think_ I know what they're talking about, but some sections were far from clear - "look at that" ..... they know what they're talking about, and apparently it is "obvious", to them at least.
Yeah I wish they would have a pointy arrow added later on screen, or a pencil to point at it while filming.
Man, nice editing Jake! All the relevant stuff retained in a concise package.
Dude there was seriously 1.5 hours of us talking about this stuff 😂
thank you for the detail on sharpening and good audio. Both things are hard to find on UA-cam
Can you do a video about adjusting the carburetor.
Inbred Jed gave his blessing on the Fiskers? Badass
I’m super confused, you’ve got a brand new square ground chain, dulled it in the dirt, then filed it with a round file instead of a square file ?
So the gutlet cuts to right ??
That’s what I think???
When you stuck the tip in the dIrt i cringed. It seems so wrong. Great video.
as a chainsaw n00b, i could not believe it dulls that fast in the dirt. Good to know. Will be extremely careful
@@AmericanWorker1127 it dulls if you even touch dirt. This was extreme.
I would like to see someone do a video using a 3" PVC pipe as a file. And a wood carved saw link. The real chains are pretty small to demonstrate the nuances of sharpening. Your thoughts ? Thanks.
I think you guys just saved me a bunch of $$$ and time;; thanks