Very useful video that everyone undertaking a failed turbo replacement needs to be aware of. My son has a 2016 Nissan XTrail (UK brand name, I think it is called Rogue in US) with the dci turbo T32 engine. He had his turbo start to fail 2 years ago with characteristic whistling noise. He paid a Nissan dealership garage £2000 or 2300USD to remove and refit the rebuilt turbo. We didn't attempt the job because access without removing the engine is very difficult, and we were put off by people who claimed it was near impossible to do without xyz. 2 years on the turbo is whistling again. We got a turbo expert to take a look, and he's ruled out other possible causes and says the turbo is failing again. He said not to replace the turbo again without replacing the oil feed line and priming the oil feed and ensuring there is flow before allowing the engine to start. We're going to have the turbo inspected by the turbo engineering firm who should be able to confirm the cause of the failure. They rebuilt the turbo 2 years ago, and whilst they might have messed up, that's pretty unlikely as that's what they do and have a pretty solid reputation. We have found mistakes the Nissan dealership made and have no intention of using them again, especially with their extortionate labour rates. This time, we'll suffer the pain of doing the job ourselves. It means removing the windscreen wiper scuttle and difficult access to the exhaust manifold from under the vehicle without a lift, but it is doable. We'll be replacing the oil line and ensuring there is oil flow before we start it up. This is a terrible piece of engineering that Nissan should have issued a recall for, but of course, they won't do that. It is otherwise a nice vehicle with lots of nice features. The other main design fault is the roof drain lines that get blocked under the windshield scuttle and cause the passenger compartment to flood during heavy rain. This can cause a lot of consequential damage, so watch out for this. Another thing Nissan should have fixed via a recall. The best thing is to mod the drain plug filters yourself so they don't clog up again. If you can avoid these issues, you shouldn't have too many other problems and it's a good vehicle if you have children/dogs etc.
I just bought a 2011 juke and I read about how many problems these cars have but I am not in a spot to be choosy, I take what I can get and seeing this video has provided me with so much info anout the cause of one of the biggest problems facing this car and now I can be proactive and have mine inspected to look for that problem, Thank you so much for providing this very important info. Thank you Thank you Thank you.
Hey I own a 2011 Juke. I have a issue where if I try to dry normally the car stutters upon reaching lower rpms, its drivable but I have to stay in like 4th gear or else it stutters bad.
My husband has a 2012 Nissan Juke SL AWD and he’s being told he’s gotta get his turbo replaced, I’m so glad I came across your video because I think this is the actual problem!
This is so common that some turbo manufacturers will not sell you a turbo without a new supply line! But that is specially turbo shops, regular vendors do not know any better. And that makes sense, because oil starvation is one of the most common courses for failed turbo. So you do not want a new turbo to fail for the same reason original turbo failed.
Thanks, crazy how braided hoses collapse and you don't know, Nissan could have put oil pressure indicator on that lube line that would protect the turbo from running dry.
I have a 2014 Juke and had the same problem around 40k miles. Replaced the turbo and that one burned up as soon as my mechanic drove around the block. He found the same problem and actually bored out the feed hole to allow more oil to pass. No problems since.
The follow up will go live tonight at 7pm CST. Here is a link to the video, its short, but hopefully better illustrates the issue. After replacing the turbo for the second time and the oil line she ran like a top and went home to her happy owners. ua-cam.com/video/F1N3mqpJx4A/v-deo.html The link may not work until the video goes live. Thank you for watching and supporting the channel I really do appreciate it.
I’ve got a manual 13 Juke that is making a click noise when letting off if boost. It happens approximately 0.8 seconds after letting up. The RPM’s also seem to fall to idle abnormally slow. No MIL and no drivability issue.
This is literally the same car I have. I’m at 113k and so far only replaced the fuel pump and battery. Tomorrow I’m planning on cleaning the MAS, change filter, maybe try to clean the intake valve.
2012 Nissan juke just had the oil changed all that 2500 miles ago checked it in the morning and its bone dry no oil leaks from the motor I've heard if the turbo is bad it will use alot of oil and its starting to feel as if the car is miss firing could the problem be the turbo ?
I have a 2011 nissan juke and is making that same noise in your video. I changed the alternator, serpentine belt and belt tensioner pulley but still making that noise when I start the car. The card drives fine but the noise is just annoying.
Quick question , Have you had any issues with leaving the heat shields off ? I just changed the line out , (proactive) , and I'm thinking of leaving the small shield that covers the turbo off . That shield looks like it traps the heat and is the cause of the carbon build up. The replacement line has a heat sleeve on the section that goes under that shield
Help please: 14' Juke Turbo Failing? 138K miles. Up to date oil changes. Issue: When i start driving the car, if i floor it, it accelerates really fast. Recently I noticed that after 1.5-2 hours of driving, when I floor it, it takes a very ling time for the car to accelerate. It doesn't go over 2.5k rpm no matter what I do. It also makes a little whistling noise, like that of a turbo (i dont know much about cars) If i turn the car off and let it sit for 10 min, the issue disappears. No dash lights, no smoke or noises. What do you guys think? Thanks!
@@randomchill251 it sure sounds like a turbo issue. I would start by inspecting the turbo. Make sure there is no side play in the turbine wheel, and no damage to turbine. It could also be related to waste gate malfunction.
Did that car run? Mine runs and drives but with no power it takes time to get power?? What do you suggest? Please let me know as soon as you can I have my father in law going nuts… I will appreciate it. Thank you
Yes, it ran and drove. Once I replace the turbo in the oil feed line, it had the proper power that it should have before. If you were trying to diagnose the turbo pull off the intake pipe at the turbo itself and look into the turbo. You will likely see that the veins in the front of the turbo are worn over where the bearings have gone out and they’ve been contacting the interior of the turbo. If that is the case, you need a new turbo, and when you replace the turbo, make sure you also replace that feed line as well. If you can’t tell by looking at the veins themselves, stick your finger in there and try and move the turbo shaft up and down or side to side. If it moves at all the turbo is toast.
Pull the intake horn off the turbo where the air box connects and see what the fins in the turbo look like. If they show any signs of wear then you have bearing issues. There should be almost no felt side play in the turbo at all.
If it didn’t have the flex tube it would be prone to cracking from engine vibration and the thermal expansion that occurs in the exhaust manifold and the turbo during normal operation. Flexible oil lines have been used in many applications for a long time, this just happens to be a common defect in the factory lines on these vehicles.
I have juke 2013 turbo it's buring oil I think , I have added quart of oil ever so often . I hear squealing sound , I have seen some white smoke coming from tail pipe , I was thinking about adding Lucas oil stabilizer. I appreciate any advice
I just got one put on my 2011 juke it's jumping around, mechanic said that the computer has been reset to give it a few hundred miles so it reads and runs correctly..does this sound correct?
That is possible. I have not run in to that issue, but sometimes it does take some time for the computer to relearn and it can feel funny until it relearns your driving habits.
Very useful video that everyone undertaking a failed turbo replacement needs to be aware of.
My son has a 2016 Nissan XTrail (UK brand name, I think it is called Rogue in US) with the dci turbo T32 engine. He had his turbo start to fail 2 years ago with characteristic whistling noise. He paid a Nissan dealership garage £2000 or 2300USD to remove and refit the rebuilt turbo. We didn't attempt the job because access without removing the engine is very difficult, and we were put off by people who claimed it was near impossible to do without xyz.
2 years on the turbo is whistling again. We got a turbo expert to take a look, and he's ruled out other possible causes and says the turbo is failing again. He said not to replace the turbo again without replacing the oil feed line and priming the oil feed and ensuring there is flow before allowing the engine to start. We're going to have the turbo inspected by the turbo engineering firm who should be able to confirm the cause of the failure. They rebuilt the turbo 2 years ago, and whilst they might have messed up, that's pretty unlikely as that's what they do and have a pretty solid reputation.
We have found mistakes the Nissan dealership made and have no intention of using them again, especially with their extortionate labour rates. This time, we'll suffer the pain of doing the job ourselves. It means removing the windscreen wiper scuttle and difficult access to the exhaust manifold from under the vehicle without a lift, but it is doable. We'll be replacing the oil line and ensuring there is oil flow before we start it up.
This is a terrible piece of engineering that Nissan should have issued a recall for, but of course, they won't do that. It is otherwise a nice vehicle with lots of nice features. The other main design fault is the roof drain lines that get blocked under the windshield scuttle and cause the passenger compartment to flood during heavy rain. This can cause a lot of consequential damage, so watch out for this. Another thing Nissan should have fixed via a recall. The best thing is to mod the drain plug filters yourself so they don't clog up again.
If you can avoid these issues, you shouldn't have too many other problems and it's a good vehicle if you have children/dogs etc.
I just bought a 2011 juke and I read about how many problems these cars have but I am not in a spot to be choosy, I take what I can get and seeing this video has provided me with so much info anout the cause of one of the biggest problems facing this car and now I can be proactive and have mine inspected to look for that problem, Thank you so much for providing this very important info. Thank you Thank you Thank you.
Hey, I own a 2011 Juke as well. Do you have a problem with when you go to accelerate, the car stutters unless you stay in the high rpms?
Hey I own a 2011 Juke. I have a issue where if I try to dry normally the car stutters upon reaching lower rpms, its drivable but I have to stay in like 4th gear or else it stutters bad.
Check your Cam sensor @@deadlife357
My husband has a 2012 Nissan Juke SL AWD and he’s being told he’s gotta get his turbo replaced, I’m so glad I came across your video because I think this is the actual problem!
Excellent demonstration
Thanks for making this video
This is so common that some turbo manufacturers will not sell you a turbo without a new supply line!
But that is specially turbo shops, regular vendors do not know any better.
And that makes sense, because oil starvation is one of the most common courses for failed turbo. So you do not want a new turbo to fail for the same reason original turbo failed.
Thanks for info. They want to take out engine instead of replacing without doing it.
Thanks, crazy how braided hoses collapse and you don't know, Nissan could have put oil pressure indicator on that lube line that would protect the turbo from running dry.
I have a 2014 Juke and had the same problem around 40k miles. Replaced the turbo and that one burned up as soon as my mechanic drove around the block. He found the same problem and actually bored out the feed hole to allow more oil to pass. No problems since.
Good morning everyone, I would like to see the follow-up video! Your friends here and Piqua Ohio! Keep up the great videos.
The follow up will go live tonight at 7pm CST. Here is a link to the video, its short, but hopefully better illustrates the issue. After replacing the turbo for the second time and the oil line she ran like a top and went home to her happy owners.
ua-cam.com/video/F1N3mqpJx4A/v-deo.html
The link may not work until the video goes live. Thank you for watching and supporting the channel I really do appreciate it.
I’ve got a manual 13 Juke that is making a click noise when letting off if boost. It happens approximately 0.8 seconds after letting up. The RPM’s also seem to fall to idle abnormally slow. No MIL and no drivability issue.
Thanks man. I'm about to put in a new turbo. I'll get a braised feed line.
Yeah same feed line problem in all this models. You buy the better feed like kit and done.
This is literally the same car I have. I’m at 113k and so far only replaced the fuel pump and battery. Tomorrow I’m planning on cleaning the MAS, change filter, maybe try to clean the intake valve.
2012 Nissan juke just had the oil changed all that 2500 miles ago checked it in the morning and its bone dry no oil leaks from the motor I've heard if the turbo is bad it will use alot of oil and its starting to feel as if the car is miss firing could the problem be the turbo ?
I have a 2011 nissan juke and is making that same noise in your video. I changed the alternator, serpentine belt and belt tensioner pulley but still making that noise when I start the car. The card drives fine but the noise is just annoying.
Its not belt tensioner pulley. Could be the AC pulley. Use inspection camera
ua-cam.com/users/shorts0klsnHOMcIM?si=LasMKAF0sDXGS4Ds
I would pull the intake tube and take a look at the turbo. The noise was coming from the bearings in the turbo.
Quick question , Have you had any issues with leaving the heat shields off ? I just changed the line out , (proactive) , and I'm thinking of leaving the small shield that covers the turbo off . That shield looks like it traps the heat and is the cause of the carbon build up. The replacement line has a heat sleeve on the section that goes under that shield
Great video
Help please: 14' Juke Turbo Failing?
138K miles.
Up to date oil changes.
Issue: When i start driving the car, if i floor it, it accelerates really fast. Recently I noticed that after 1.5-2 hours of driving, when I floor it, it takes a very ling time for the car to accelerate. It doesn't go over 2.5k rpm no matter what I do. It also makes a little whistling noise, like that of a turbo (i dont know much about cars)
If i turn the car off and let it sit for 10 min, the issue disappears.
No dash lights, no smoke or noises.
What do you guys think? Thanks!
@@randomchill251 it sure sounds like a turbo issue. I would start by inspecting the turbo. Make sure there is no side play in the turbine wheel, and no damage to turbine. It could also be related to waste gate malfunction.
What was that squeaking sound?
I’m assuming the turbo
Did that car run? Mine runs and drives but with no power it takes time to get power?? What do you suggest? Please let me know as soon as you can I have my father in law going nuts… I will appreciate it. Thank you
Yes, it ran and drove. Once I replace the turbo in the oil feed line, it had the proper power that it should have before. If you were trying to diagnose the turbo pull off the intake pipe at the turbo itself and look into the turbo. You will likely see that the veins in the front of the turbo are worn over where the bearings have gone out and they’ve been contacting the interior of the turbo. If that is the case, you need a new turbo, and when you replace the turbo, make sure you also replace that feed line as well. If you can’t tell by looking at the veins themselves, stick your finger in there and try and move the turbo shaft up and down or side to side. If it moves at all the turbo is toast.
Mine began making a similar noise a few days ago. It runs fine. What should I check?
Pull the intake horn off the turbo where the air box connects and see what the fins in the turbo look like. If they show any signs of wear then you have bearing issues. There should be almost no felt side play in the turbo at all.
I wonder of they sale a aftermarket line that doesn't have that flex tube looking part of it lol
If it didn’t have the flex tube it would be prone to cracking from engine vibration and the thermal expansion that occurs in the exhaust manifold and the turbo during normal operation. Flexible oil lines have been used in many applications for a long time, this just happens to be a common defect in the factory lines on these vehicles.
I have juke 2013 turbo it's buring oil I think , I have added quart of oil ever so often . I hear squealing sound , I have seen some white smoke coming from tail pipe , I was thinking about adding Lucas oil stabilizer. I appreciate any advice
You can safely go with Lucas stop oil leak product! It's much better than other lucas products.
And let me know if that works for you.
I just got one put on my 2011 juke it's jumping around, mechanic said that the computer has been reset to give it a few hundred miles so it reads and runs correctly..does this sound correct?
That is possible. I have not run in to that issue, but sometimes it does take some time for the computer to relearn and it can feel funny until it relearns your driving habits.
@@JosephVollmar found out could pack burnt out I'll never own another