What blows my mind is automatic transmissions and how they managed to figure out how to get everything to work. It's very hard to wrap your head around. How moving fluid is making it shift when needed. The "worm tray" is a maze of crazy fluid passages. The torque converter itself is incredibly brilliant (although I think the whole fluid coupler was invented before the AT & incorporated into it.) If you get bored look up how an AT torque converter works. It's pretty amazing ,that some fluid in a little round thing plus centrifugal force can move the entire car. In an AT their is literally no shaft or direct mechanical connectetion from the spinning engine crankshaft the transmission drive shaft. Transmission fluid connects & holds the 2 shafts together.
Great video, as always. I find it worrying that engine manufacturers are not coming with a solution to the carbon build up on direct injection engines, and instead, they are relaying this problem to the end user as another "maintenance item"
Carbon build was solved long time ago of course by Toyota with the D-4S system that has both direct fuel injection and port fuel injection, with the first implementations already on 2007.
It's almost like it was intended to be. And who eventually benefits in the end from all this emissions bs? But remember, you're saving the eNViRoNmEnT 🙄 Don't look up at the real pollution problem either btw...
Me and a friend rented a Nissan juke in Spain for our vacation. Half way of climbing up the small hill, the car was making weird noise, burning smelling was emanating through out the cabin. While driving on the highway the car stalled 5 times while we were doing 70-80 MPH. We were able to get to another rental in the nick of time before the car kicked the bucket. That was my first impression of the Juke and the last time I will rent another nissan. Used to own a Versa and that was also a issue too. Friend used to own a altima and the dash was completely destroy from the crack and heat. Friend's wife also have a sentra and the door chrome plate keep felling out and the door lock keeps on breaking.
Probably because that was a rental car that was most likely abused in an area with hills and that's the #1 killer of the CVT overheating and burning up fluid to limp mode
Nissan cars are basically disposable products. Their reputation from the old era stayed in their old cars before Renault took over. Nowadays, they make the lowest priced cars and still make profit - so how can one expect the car to be well-built?
Got my wife's 06 Murano, which we luckily got the trans replaced under their last gasp 120K trans warranty extension. Over-all been pretty decent vehicle, but I'd never, ever buy a Nissan. Big step down engineering-wise from Toyota/Honda even Suburu reliability, might be equal/above Mitsubishi/Suzuki.
The MR16DDT is a great engine. I have that engine in my Juke Nismo RS. I have put over 230,000 kms on it and it's pushing 307HP to the wheels at 26psi. (Obviously done some mods and upgraded the turbo, intercooler, piping, injectors, full exhaust, stand alone etc. etc.) The secret is maintenance. If you maintain this engine right with high quality products you will never have internal issues. I use Castrol full synthetic oil and OEM nissan filter every 5000 kms. Also these engines requiresl premium fuel and synthetic oil, unfortunately many people that have these engines use regular gas and regular oil and then wonder why they have issues lol.
This was great! This is my engine (2017 Nissan SR Turbo) I drive it like a little old lady. Keep the oil changed, air filter, and I don't smash the boost. Just once in a while to throw off the cobwebs. After looking at this video I'm going to start changing my oil on a religious basis. I use Mobil 1 and have always run premium gas. Thanks for the video. I learned a lot!
Right after watching this video I went out and checked it. The color still looks really good since the last change. I do a lot of driving. I check it after every major trip. I bought the car new, and I will admit, I have raced it twice. I sandbagged both of them. The first one was a pickup truck on the outskirts of downtown LA. The 2nd was in Medford OR. A Dodge Charger. Black in color with a big V8. I got him/her good! No doubt blew his/her mind to get their doors blown off by a Sentra!
Unless your car requires premium running premium doesn’t do you any favors. Premium just changes octane rating which is the pre ignition resistance rating in essence. I have to run premium because Lexus requires it. Best thing to spend your money on is quality synthetic oil, oem oil filters, and other proper maintenance.
Yes. Premium is recommended by the manufacturer. I've run premium in all my cars with good results. I used to have a 91 Maxima. When I would run unleaded, it would ping. Never had that problem with running premium. That engine had over 300,000 miles on it and it never burned a drop of oil. Although I can't same the same for the Jatco transmission... @@chihirogustafson8557
Engine engine in the Juke is pretty good. The Nismo was only ever let down by the CVT in the AWD model not being durable enough. They tune pretty darn well otherwise.
@@speedkar99 they get to around 90k miles and you likely need to start thinking about getting a top end valve clean else you'll start getting codes from carbon build up because of the Direct Injection. As for the trans, I was doing a cvt fluid change on my Nismo RS AWD CVT around every 10k to 15k miles, traded it in at around 100k miles, and had bought it at 40k miles with it making a horrible whining noise. Fluid change solved that.
Hey bro, you made a Camry Cluster swap video once in which you put 4 cylinder cluster at first for which your gauge were showing more RPM and then you put a 6 cylinder cluster which solved the problem. I think there is a simple resistor in the PCB which selects how much the needle should go up or down per pulse. You should make a video on it comparing them two to find out the difference and make the 4 cylinder one capable of running with 6 cylinder. Would be a great work!
Great video! The first thing I did to my direct injected 3.6 was install a quality catch can and have collected all the fluid that it has stopped from entering the intake. To date at 35,000 mi it’s well over a quart. Not the answer to the engineering problem, but better than not doing anything. Also change with quality eng oil @ 3,000 miles or less without fail. Port injection along with direct injection seems to be a better solution to the carbon build up on the back side of the intake valves, because who wants to have a media blast performed @ 50,000 miles or less?🤷
It almost seems like all of this cLiMaTe cHaNgE PoLLuTiOn bs somehow always benefits the pockets of certain people rather than the poor person crucified for HaRmiNg the environment or the environment itself. But, being observant and logical just makes you a crazy conspiracy theorist...
Get an oil analysis at your next change. If you're engine is good and there isn't a lot of fuel dilution you might be able to be good with 5-6K. Oil change is cheap insurance, especially for GDI, however any named Full Synth should easily last 7K even on turbo as long as its not being diluted.
Cvt, yes. Engine is surprisingly strong. I'm goinn on about 10k miles at 272whp/281wtq on my sentra sr turbo...exhaust and stock dp are keeping me from clearing 300whp rn...There was a juke that held somewhere around 425whp for about a year, daily driven as well.
Do turbo engine ticking time bomb? You know what the vr30 is? It’s the engine in the q50/60 and the new Nissan z, stock it pushes 372 wheel horsepower, it can be modded to 789 wheel horsepower on vrx70 turbos and 1000wheel horsepower on alpha 10 turbos. engine made by Nissan.
@TheMarcQ absolutely. I'm at 107k miles on mine, been tuned since about 80k miles I believe? I hit my 6850RPM limiter like 10x a day, and she fuckin loves it. Tuned on 53% ethanol.
Not trying to nitpick, but let me nitpick. Why is the electronic unit better than a simple thermostat? Sorry, this is like using cameras instead of side mirrors. I just wonder when enough is enough.
More electronic is always better! Cameras instead of mirrors, solenoids instead of hydraulics, motors instead of solenoids, everything needs to be controlled by some sort of serial communications protocol which can be accessed over the air by the in car modem and requires regular software updates when hackers find the security key wad pilfered from an online tutorial. Get rid of buttons and move all the function to a huge massive touch screen stuck right in your face, move the seats with the touch screen, open the hood with a touch screen and we are working to steer the car with touch screen gestures. 98% of drivers use a cellphone to navigate instead of the huge touch screen but we have made no provision for this.
Thermostats pulse open and closed when warming up, causing the block to swing in temperature with varying heat loads until it reaches steady state. This can be reduced and mitigated with an electronic unit, and is able to remove heat quicker when under a short duration high load acceleration. Additionally it will allow for quicker heating in a cabin with selective heat load
Turbocharged DI engines (DI engines period really, but especially turbocharged ones) need their oil changed SOONER, not later. Direct injection comes with oil dilution as an inherent tradeoff. It depends on how the car is driven and how often it's driven (low speed and infrequent drivers get it much worse), but all DI engines have it to some extent. And the only way to keep it in check is so shorten your oil change interval. I do it every 3k in my 15 Honda Fit. I did it every 4k in my old 13 Honda Accord and 09 Mazdaspeed 3
you should keep an eye out for GM's new 2.7 turbo 4 cylinder. They "built it from the ground up" for high PSI turbocharging but left the block open deck. I want to say 27 PSI in its high output variant with the same block.
I'm thinking with that warped engine block design and the heads on so tight these probably at least don't blow very many head gaskets. Makes me think about a design where they machine m/f grooves into the block & cyl head similar to fastening joints in woodworking. With a crush type gasket that fits in between.
Holy shit.. I'm *SO GLAD* I decided to start my engine repairs with a Tiburon, the 2.7L Delta engine is dead-simple and reliable compared to this mess.
There's a product that will clean stuck rings. you need to remove the plugs and add an amount to each cylinder and allow it to soak over 48 hrs while adding more occasionally . That engine uses stretch bolts on the head and even big ends and mains. I never get used to how close they seem to be to breaking when tensioning. Scary tight! Now take the next step and actually recondition the thing and put it bask in service.
This is also the engine in the Renault Clio RS! (Replacing the venerable F4R 2.0L non-turbo, the MR18 replaced the F4R 2.0L turbo in the Megane RS and Alpine A110.)
I have one of these 2013 Jukes. 220k miles on it with original engine and CVT. I have abused the hell out of this thing almost since day one but have babied it when it comes to engine maintenance. expensive redline engine oil, OEM CVT oil, decarb etc. Started burning oil around 60k miles and when I first noticed it I started checking oil every at refuel. So long as I kept it fed with oil it was happy. It still runs fine, no rough idle, no CEL, but these days it only gets about 28mpg and sounds like a tractor lol been waiting on that CVT to fail for a year or two now.
This was a great informative video. Made me beleive even more why its so important to change your oil often and why you gotta treat GDI with extra maintainance in advance. Gone were the fun and less headache days of port injection.
Also GDI has a lot more oil-fuel dilution issues which should factor into your oil change interval. If I had a GDI, I'd be doing an oil analysis at 4-5K to see if while the oil might still be good viscosity is being reduced by fuel dilution. Feel sad for those folks simply going by the oil's label of 10K/20K oil change intervals...
The thing on the turbocharger intake side that you said "doesn't govern anything" is the recirculation valve. It's like a blow-off valve, but the outlet of the blow-off is routed right back around to the intake again, making a tight circle path for the air. When you close the throttle quickly, all the boosted air would have nowhere to go and that would overload the turbocharger. this allows the air to go somewhere and let the turbocharger spin down slowly instead of stopping abruptly.
@@speedkar99 Open it up and you will see how it works. Nearly all OEMs use this type of BOV now. It's called a Compressor Recirculation Valve. A quick google search will describe how it works. ua-cam.com/video/EqCAZDzJQ_s/v-deo.html
For your engine stand , go to Home Depot get a large masonry mixing tub and a milk crate .. cut the sides of the crate so it fits around the center pole of your stand .. you can put the mixing tub on top of the crate .. catches everything .. i drilled some holes in it tub ., used some sealing washers to prevent leaks and bolted it to my milk crate.. no more mess on the garage floor ..
that looks to be a good engine for tuning. stil it will need some special care. 1: it is a direct injected engine. this make it necessari to change the oil often. micro sot comes in to the oil and it act as a grinding paste. this attack every link of the timing chain and elongate it and it fails. 2: it is a direct injected engine so it need a secondary set of injectors to clean the inlet. this can also be used to put more fuel in to the engine for tuning. 3: the block is open deck. it will need a girdle or possibly new and stronger liner's. the problem here looks to be all in to bad oil maintenance. this engine need a oil change every 5000 mile MAX and it need to use a good oil that can suspend all the micro soot. for daily use i had tried to have a secondary oil filter to try to catch some of that micro soot.
Puts his comment about German engines needing you to remove the turbo just to get at the valve covers in a different light. French engineered simplicity!
I was not aware that the MR16DDT was prone to carbon buildup considering it having both port and direct injection. Did nissan get rid of the dual injection 2014+ ? If you search for Nissan's marketing video of the mr16ddt/juke, it shows how the dual injection works. Most common failures I saw were the turbo's oil return tube would get heatsoaked and coke up oil and eventually clog causing premature turbocharger failure; replacing that tube with an upgraded braided nylon tube resolved this. Second was the earlier years had an under-spec timing chain that was supposedly updated to prevent premature chain wear, nissan covered this repair for me way out of warranty at no cost. It looks like something has been updated on your teardown as the oil drain looks larger than the 2013 I owned. I also do not remember there being a thermal jacket on the oil return line. As you had stated, that engine was highly, highly neglected. I was very impressed in my nissan juke, easily a favorite car I have owned and driven with plenty of torque before spool-up, ripped around corners wonderfully, gobs of acceleration in a small form factor, great steering feel with active torque vectoring, plenty of clearance for off pavement adventures especially after putting slightly larger all terrains on the thing- although I really enjoyed the quick response and consistent torque output of the CVT, the car was plagued with a trash flawed transmission destined to fail early. Tuners got quite a lot of spare power out of this engine, especially in the manual models of the juke quite reliably as far as I am aware.
@@speedkar99 I think this engine had several iterations. Some used a vacuum actuated turbo and a traditional thermostat, amongst other differences. Funnily enough, I have the factory repair manual for the 2013-19 Juke and as far as I can tell, it doesn't mention any of these electrically actuated thermostat and turbo wastegates. Plus it only has 2 VVT solenoids. Very strange indeed.
interesting to see what the engine in my Juke Nismo RS looks like and how it works. After almost 10 years and 125,000 kilometers, it still works like clockwork, has no increased oil consumption and has successfully passed the last maintenance without any problems..... i have manuell transmission version with 218 Hp
This is a MR16DDT V2(version 2) engine, if memory serves me correct, these weren’t put in non NIsmo RS Jukes till 2015. The version 1 was utilized until 2014 in the non NIsmo RS version Jukes. If memory serves me correct V1 mr engines didn’t have an EGR system like the V2. An Oil Catch can hooked up to the PCV system goes a long way to keeping bypass oil and fluids from getting to the valve and causing the carbon build up in these DIG engines. Please clarify? Otherwise, great video, thanks!
What immediately strikes me is the absolute mess of wiring, hoses and pipes wrapped around the powertrain. There wasn't even an attempt to make it neat or comprehensible.
My wife has the same engine in her 2016 Juke. No trouble till now except a defective O2 sensor broken at 50000km. Engine generally not easy to maintain or repair, due to the lack of accessibility under the wipers or inside the front bumper... Thanks for sharing these steps and explanations !
Underneath the engine block there's one oil guide bolted on at each cylinder two are long and two are short. When I took mines off I forgot to check which were long and which were short. Did you take these off? If not can you take a look?
Looks like this engine oil consumption isn't much different to a VW/Audi engine that isn't maintained properly. I used to own an Audi with no oil consumption at all with 110K miles (177000 KM). The trick is to change the oil every 5000 miles. Currently, I got an Audi A5 80K miles and no oil consumption. The newer version of 2 liter 4-cyl turbo engine runs cleaner. The oil was totally clean when I changed it at 5000 miles. It is also very fuel efficient at 34 mpg with 252 HP (I can regularly get 38 mpg on highway drives).
I have 2012 Cruze 1.4T EcoBoost. I run 89-91 in the summer and 87-89 in winter... I live in South Carolina (gets pretty hot, 105+ in summer)... I have a boost leak right now but I don't think it's from the turbo itself. I'm thinking my waste gate somewhere or in one of the feed lines. All the issues my engine bay has is strictly GMs fault... Shitty plastic parts, no heat shielding where it needs to be, heat shielding where it SHOULDNT be, thermostats open at way to hot a temp... They stuck the god damn oil line for the turbo between the damn cat converter and the exhaust manifold with NO heat shield... Could have put it directly in the combustion chamber and it would have been colder!
Awesome video as usual. I do like your videos a little more than I Do Cars because you explain the engine a bit better instead of just ripping it apart. Thanks for the video
Open deck was fne for Honda engines, up to ~twice the power. Then a blockguard was easy to install & good for about three times the power. Beyond that & sleeves were needed. What about adding port injected alcohol to clean the ports & cool the air?
First impressions of this engine layout makes me wanna nissan puke 🤮I can see you taking it apart that it makes a little more sense than it appears, but there's still quite a lot of lines, hoses, and wires all over the place.
That engine should or needs to be eco friendly as building all the pieces parts to make it run can not be something to smile about. Weird with all the soap boxing about carbon neutral yet the complexity make's it an oxymoron. 🙄 Great tear down & explanation SK 99. Oh how I remember being a Dad & doing chores (no videos) at the same time. Play pen in back of pickup, one eye on work, one eye on kids. Days gone bye now. "Adapt & overcome".
Haha thanks! Being a dad is awesome, yes it's got responsibility but I love teaching so it's more of an opportunity, Even though my daughter is a few months old
If they truly cared about making it eco friendly, they'd use less plastic and more aluminum. Aluminium can simply be melted down and repoured like steel to repurpose it. Plastic is much harder to reuse or recycle.
Great video! Do you know what's an oil catch can? It is intended to catch the oil from the air traveling from inside the to air intake (PCB?) to finally reduce the carbon build up on the intake valves. I am curious about your opinion about it.
Do you reccomend oven cleaner in the air intake to clean carbon? Spraying a can of oven cleaner after the maf sensor before an oil change, let the engine sit for four hours to let the oven cleaner do its thing. Then change the oil.
The issue with putting small displacement turbocharged engines in production vehicles is that extra money and engineering needs to go along with it...the average driver will not be nice or change driving style to make it easier on the engine...or do extra maintenance...the engine needs to be built much more robust...not built down to the minimum to function at a price point...the carbon issue can be mitigated by changing the the average rpm its used at...make it only produce good power above 3000 and it will self clean and the higher average rpm will make it much less likely to allow carbon to stick anyway...
@speedkar99 people will say they don't want to deal with the extra hassles but in the real world everything is give and take...you want efficiency and power...gotta take the extra price, complexity and maintenance involved as well...the same as people don't understand that their electric vehicles cause alot more pollution initially than gas and diesel vehicles, the power to charge them is by burning coal mostly, in America our electric grid can't handle the extra loads and to have any positive effect that car needs to drive for 5 years, but most batteries fail in 3 to 5 depending on use...then is difficult to recycle...I think it's less that people are ignoring the problem but the misinformation everywhere...thank you for your time and effort! Stay safe My Brother!
Nice breakdown. Question: aside from frequent oil change, can Italian tune ups actually help this type of engine? There is really no avoiding direct injection with turbo these days.
At least many cars now use a secondary port injection along with direct injection. I think only to keep valves clean. All those extra parts & complexity to fix the F-up of the direct injection idea. Kinda crazy how engineers & car makers decided to go with direct injection then pawn the garbage off to consumers knowing full well it'll clog. I guess if a person can diy they can find good deals on used direct injection cars with clogged intakes & diy clean them. My uncle won a 2016 Ford Mustang I believe it was a 4cyl direct injection only ecoboost turbo. He did the smart thing & sold it.
@@michaelbrinks8089 , great points. But as far as I know only Toyota has intake port injection combined with direct injection, what other manufacturers do that?
@@test40323 I know a lot do now. I'd have to look to find specific ones. Now I'm curious to learn about the whole direct injection debacle in modern cars. Reminds me years ago I had an 86 Chevy Z24 hatchback. Star bits weren't very cheap/ common in 86. In the 90s I was changing it's water pump & a pully was held on by 3 bolts. But one was a 10mm (no problem) the other 2 I had to make my own custom tools to reach 1 was star bit, the other was an Allen head bolt. So I had to cut up a star bit & Allen wrench & then glue the tips inside a wrench for clearance room to reach them. They did it 100% on purpose coz they simply could have used 3 10mm bolts. I hate giving car makers money when I know they purposely screw people over. I actually wanna build my own small fuel efficient vehicle. Something like a Piaggio mp3 (reverse trike configuration) but a lower seating position with an aerodynamic lightweight removable weather enclosure so it could be used in rain, cold light snow with no issues. Some removal saddlebags/cases & 3rd rear storage case & maybe some room behind the seat would be able to carry plenty groceries or travel gear. A 350 to 500cc engine & cvt trans would have plenty of power to keep up with traffic but the better aerodynamics 🆚 a motorcycle could get well over 70 mpgs. The original Toyota Prius got 100mpgs but they purposely reduced consumer version to 50mpgs. I suspect they don't wanna make a vehicle like I mentioned above because it'd be very affordable, easy & cheap to fix, and would greatly reduce oil sales = less profits for oil plus less gas tax revenues coming in for governments. I think if I could build what I have envisioned in my head. Almost every young person would rather buy it than more expensive car. Since it'd carry 2 people tandem seated, could be used yr round like a regular car, is fun to drive, cheap reliable and cheap easy to repair. Basically the affordability & fun of a scooter, but more stable safe coz 3 wheels reverse trike that could be drove yr round coz enclosure but also partially removable for nice weather.
There is not much that Italian tune ups can do to intake valves except make it worse by dumping more oil through the pcv valve... To my knowledge at least Volkswagen Group, Nissan, Ford and Toyota DI engines use dual injection. Haven't really gone through all car manufacturers, but it's likely all of them use intake port injection nowadays...
I just saw another video that showed an oil burning problem because the turbo on these cars cracks and lets oil to leak into the turbo and then get pumped into the combustion chamber , and because of the crack the engine uses an extreme amount of oil and the engine gets very dirty.
can you do dodge hornet with 2.0 engine? it's a new car and the engine looks more than capable enough for that size of car, I'm hoping it's of a good quality. seriously consider buying it.
Was it a solenoid that controls the variable oil pump? I wonder if there’s a fail safe? It would suck to have the solenoid fail and then you lose oil pressure. You had to take a crazy amount of stuff off to get to the timing cover. I wonder if there’s a more direct way for a timing job or if it’s an absolute nightmare? The cylinder walls weren’t scored. The bottom end bearings were good. Just some camshaft wear. Was the oil consumption just due to stuck oil control rings? I wonder if they could be unstuck? Cam buckets are better? Aren’t they a pain in the ass to adjust? You’d have to take the camshafts and buckets off no? I like my Honda roller rocker adjustment and learned how to do it. My valve train also looks more orange than Donald trump due to 25 years of age and my brother used crappy oil and never changed it when he had it. Even after I’ve had it for ten years of using full synthetic oil there’s a lot of varnish but no sludge. I hope and expect my simple non VVTI, port injection, naturally aspirated timing belt engine can last until the rust eventually eats away my suspension connections. Thanks for the interesting videos!
That muck in the intake also wouldn't happen if they weren't running crank case vapors and egr back to the intake (he said it). direct injection isnt better than port injection..better mixing of the fuel with port injection + with the current knowledge of regular injectors they are just as accurate( see Injector Dynamics) . the only good about direction injection is that they can use auto-ignition like a diesel but they tend not to. So you basically get all the draw backs of a dirty engine and dont even actually get any efficiency
IT seems that all the car manufacturers have developed complicated small DGI / Turbo engines to meet government requirements for pollution and mileage. It also seems that these are all designed to work for 100,000 ~ 150,000 miles, after which repair is economically unfeasible. So... sell them before 100,000 miles! 😲
Hmmm, are you referring to the power source of the pump or the actual mechanism of the pump? As I see it, for the drive system, while driving the high pressure fuel pump via an electric motor is advantageous in terms of making the high pressure system independent of engine/cam rotation, the current cam driven system is simpler and its output controlled electronically via a solenoid. As for the pumping mechanism, I doubt the pressures required by DI can be generated by anything other than the usual plunger type mechanism. In other words, the advantages of the conventional mechanical/solenoid system combination are too compelling to warrant change. Don't get it the wrong way but you seem unusually knowledgeable about cars than the average woman (or person for that matter). 👍👍👍
Pumps today are driven directly from the camshaft - so no losses and it's very efficient and simple. When driving with an electric motor, you first have to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy in the alternator - where you lose 20-30% of energy. Furthermore, today's cars are recharged by recuperation, so you lose another 10% plus you unnecessarily burden the battery and alternator brushes. Furthermore, the electric motor also has some efficiency, so you have additional losses and a limited lifespan. So you would get an ineffective pump that would have a short service life - and no advantages compared to the classic concept, I guess you don't want that.
If it didn't have an exhaust recirculation, then the intake should be clean. I get it's all for economy and "saving the planet" and what not but that just causes more trouble.
There's a lot a gunk buildup due to direct injection, even worse than a high mileage diesel engine. Keep your multi point(MPI) old car engine if u want something reliable for the future!
Thanks for this awesome in depth video , do you think if we put in a blanking plate for that egr system it will help and stop that dirty air going thru , I hate these systems, don’t know why we should pay for this crap killing our engines
In theory though, since you said the guy didn’t routinely change the oil and it lasted till almost 100k miles with just an oil leak into the cylinder wall with a little wear on the cams and gunk all over the place with it still being able to run is pretty good actually, I know engines that would die fast without routine oil maintenance especially with the widely used 0w-20 where I’m from
@@speedkar99 but cars used to die out at 20-30k if you were lucky, I think technology has advanced the field significantly in terms of wear prevention and fault detection
It’s not technology itself that’s the problem, because after all, if we didn’t advance in tech in the first place mechanical engines wouldn’t have even been invented, I think what you are referring to is the wrong advances in technology
Once you turbocharge a small engine, whether it's 0.5 litres, it's no longer a small engine because the engine ends up displacing more air and consumes more fuel than suggested
did he find a oil presure sensor i pass the vdo few time never hear of it was it me ? (i have a juke 2014 sv 1.6)the same engine ,thing happen the woman who have it before said never had a light in the dashboard and now she drink oil and now the oil is black event with a flush of oil you do 200km and she black like you did nothing the week before eny help proposition/théorie will be accepted just try to know if she is dying or there could be something to do about it which flush additive can i use or there no turning back and just need a rebuild thank all
User error! Had same engine, 1 year newer. Zero issues. No oil burned. I guessed it was turbo seal failure. Using cheap non synthetic oil, burning the oil and creating ash and hot spots around the turbo shaft etc. New engine probably did the same as ignorant, cheap people are just like that. Shame. It is one peppy engine in a fun car…
@@speedkar99 They rust pretty bad, no? Right now i have a 2007 Sentra and it's super easy to work on and parts are super cheap. But it is also old and i'm looking for my next new car.
There is nothing wrong with this engine, the issue with that engine is lack of servicing. I have had 3 of these cars with this engine and none of them burn oil. Still have 2 of them, the other got crashed.
@@speedkar99 I have got one that one 2 miles a day 3 or 4 times a week still no issues from 4 years of use, also if you think there was carbon buildup in the that, check so euro trash on how carbon an oil are in there engines. Ps that engine never had a oil change in 7 years.
All these modern turbocharged engines thesedays have the same problem-too much heat and excessive pressure/strain on engine and components =failure. The manufacturers are trying to get as much power out of small cubic inch engines as they can while trying to maintain fuel efficiency, it’s recipe for disaster.
Known problems, the ICU tech has been pushed to the limits, on top of that, new regulations made cars in the EU some 10% weaker around 2021. So it's worse now, imagine a hybrid car, shutting down the ICU all the time... Even high end cars may develop serious problems at 50k miles. An Au di / V W may need blasting with walnut cases to remove the deposits at this point. Nis san/Rena ult/Mer cedes engines are not famous for these problems. Maybe the last generation was the TCE engine. Featuring the variable oil pump - not directly driven, metal sprayed cylinder walls, turbo with electric actuator, belt without tensioner. It's direct injection, but does not have a high pressure pump. It does not have the insane wet running timing belt found in Peu geot/Fo rd, but a chain. Little ICU cars seem to be phased out, the new micra will be EV only.
Our Fiat 500 0.9 TwinAir is even worse 😂 these days it’s “normal” in Europe to drive a small engine, since you pay tax per cc in many countries in the EU. And with a fuel price of over $10 usd per gallon in my country, you don’t want to own a big engine 😂😂
Not much....direct injection turbo engines inheritly have these issues. Maybe a periodic valve cleaning and a PCV catch can and double the oil change intervals would help
It takes a real man to take apart an engine and babysit at the same time. Props to you man and thanks for sharing with us!
He should use the baby nappies instead of his brother shirt to absorb spillages
@@greathey1234
😂😂😂
Soon enough ..let her clothes wear out and you'll see them soon
Thanks!
It's not like the wife wants her in the kitchen 🙈
You go Dad, soon she'll be wrenching while you sit in easy chair commenting!
I can't pretend to be knowledgeable about automotive repair, but your videos are helping me slowly learn about components. Thanks for that.
What blows my mind is automatic transmissions and how they managed to figure out how to get everything to work. It's very hard to wrap your head around. How moving fluid is making it shift when needed. The "worm tray" is a maze of crazy fluid passages. The torque converter itself is incredibly brilliant (although I think the whole fluid coupler was invented before the AT & incorporated into it.) If you get bored look up how an AT torque converter works. It's pretty amazing ,that some fluid in a little round thing plus centrifugal force can move the entire car. In an AT their is literally no shaft or direct mechanical connectetion from the spinning engine crankshaft the transmission drive shaft. Transmission fluid connects & holds the 2 shafts together.
Correct, compare a AT to a CVT which is simplicity, with 5-10 mpg increase.
Always so satisfying when you remove those bolts in fast motion. You are a natural professor / educator 💯
Thanks
You mentioned the bowl in the piston crown at 19:30. The bowl is for the direct injection, not to add room for valve travel.
Thanks
It's called a dish. Doesn't have anything to do with direct injection. It's just a dished piston. Nothing new...
Great video, as always. I find it worrying that engine manufacturers are not coming with a solution to the carbon build up on direct injection engines, and instead, they are relaying this problem to the end user as another "maintenance item"
Carbon build was solved long time ago of course by Toyota with the D-4S system that has both direct fuel injection and port fuel injection, with the first implementations already on 2007.
@@savclaudiu2133 yes, some engines do offer this option, but most don't. And that is the main issue I think.
It's almost like it was intended to be. And who eventually benefits in the end from all this emissions bs? But remember, you're saving the eNViRoNmEnT 🙄 Don't look up at the real pollution problem either btw...
Carbon builds up after waranty period, why would they care?
I hope we can just all go back to port injection eventually. I see no benefits from DI. Not from a dual system either.
1.6 isn't even that small, try 1.0L.
Whatever makes you feel better
Lol. 1.6 is that small.
1.0L isn't even that small, try 1.0mL
@@Sonickart no engine is that small, not even small modelling engines
I have a car with a 1.0L engine and its very fuel efficient. It does almost 40 miles per gallon
Please also open up the turbos in next videos. The gates and spindles are fascinating to petrol heads.
to be honest all those issues can be dealt with by doing some preserving mods like egr delete and oil catch can
Me and a friend rented a Nissan juke in Spain for our vacation. Half way of climbing up the small hill, the car was making weird noise, burning smelling was emanating through out the cabin. While driving on the highway the car stalled 5 times while we were doing 70-80 MPH. We were able to get to another rental in the nick of time before the car kicked the bucket. That was my first impression of the Juke and the last time I will rent another nissan. Used to own a Versa and that was also a issue too. Friend used to own a altima and the dash was completely destroy from the crack and heat. Friend's wife also have a sentra and the door chrome plate keep felling out and the door lock keeps on breaking.
Ouch!
Probably because that was a rental car that was most likely abused in an area with hills and that's the #1 killer of the CVT overheating and burning up fluid to limp mode
Nissan cars are basically disposable products. Their reputation from the old era stayed in their old cars before Renault took over. Nowadays, they make the lowest priced cars and still make profit - so how can one expect the car to be well-built?
Got my wife's 06 Murano, which we luckily got the trans replaced under their last gasp 120K trans warranty extension. Over-all been pretty decent vehicle, but I'd never, ever buy a Nissan.
Big step down engineering-wise from Toyota/Honda even Suburu reliability, might be equal/above Mitsubishi/Suzuki.
Most often the breaks are the one that smell, sometimes the clutch if the driver can't drive manual.
The MR16DDT is a great engine. I have that engine in my Juke Nismo RS. I have put over 230,000 kms on it and it's pushing 307HP to the wheels at 26psi. (Obviously done some mods and upgraded the turbo, intercooler, piping, injectors, full exhaust, stand alone etc. etc.)
The secret is maintenance. If you maintain this engine right with high quality products you will never have internal issues.
I use Castrol full synthetic oil and OEM nissan filter every 5000 kms. Also these engines requiresl premium fuel and synthetic oil, unfortunately many people that have these engines use regular gas and regular oil and then wonder why they have issues lol.
This was great! This is my engine (2017 Nissan SR Turbo) I drive it like a little old lady. Keep the oil changed, air filter, and I don't smash the boost. Just once in a while to throw off the cobwebs. After looking at this video I'm going to start changing my oil on a religious basis. I use Mobil 1 and have always run premium gas. Thanks for the video. I learned a lot!
Are you tuned? If not, hmu. I'm at 272whp/281wtq in my 2017 sr turbo 6spd
Yes please change it and check that oil level frequently
Right after watching this video I went out and checked it. The color still looks really good since the last change. I do a lot of driving. I check it after every major trip. I bought the car new, and I will admit, I have raced it twice. I sandbagged both of them. The first one was a pickup truck on the outskirts of downtown LA. The 2nd was in Medford OR. A Dodge Charger. Black in color with a big V8. I got him/her good! No doubt blew his/her mind to get their doors blown off by a Sentra!
Unless your car requires premium running premium doesn’t do you any favors. Premium just changes octane rating which is the pre ignition resistance rating in essence. I have to run premium because Lexus requires it. Best thing to spend your money on is quality synthetic oil, oem oil filters, and other proper maintenance.
Yes. Premium is recommended by the manufacturer. I've run premium in all my cars with good results. I used to have a 91 Maxima. When I would run unleaded, it would ping. Never had that problem with running premium. That engine had over 300,000 miles on it and it never burned a drop of oil. Although I can't same the same for the Jatco transmission...
@@chihirogustafson8557
Engine engine in the Juke is pretty good. The Nismo was only ever let down by the CVT in the AWD model not being durable enough. They tune pretty darn well otherwise.
So I've heard. People get alot of power out of these
@@speedkar99 they get to around 90k miles and you likely need to start thinking about getting a top end valve clean else you'll start getting codes from carbon build up because of the Direct Injection.
As for the trans, I was doing a cvt fluid change on my Nismo RS AWD CVT around every 10k to 15k miles, traded it in at around 100k miles, and had bought it at 40k miles with it making a horrible whining noise. Fluid change solved that.
@@matthewwain9958that’s why I do seafoam treatments on my Kia Optima 2.4 Theta II GDI every 15k-30k miles
Hey bro, you made a Camry Cluster swap video once in which you put 4 cylinder cluster at first for which your gauge were showing more RPM and then you put a 6 cylinder cluster which solved the problem.
I think there is a simple resistor in the PCB which selects how much the needle should go up or down per pulse.
You should make a video on it comparing them two to find out the difference and make the 4 cylinder one capable of running with 6 cylinder. Would be a great work!
Thanks for the information. Did you get yours to work?
Speedkar99's channel is way underrated. I love these videos
Glad you like them!! Thanks
Great video! The first thing I did to my direct injected 3.6 was install a quality catch can and have collected all the fluid that it has stopped from entering the intake. To date at 35,000 mi it’s well over a quart. Not the answer to the engineering problem, but better than not doing anything. Also change with quality eng oil @ 3,000 miles or less without fail. Port injection along with direct injection seems to be a better solution to the carbon build up on the back side of the intake valves, because who wants to have a media blast performed @ 50,000 miles or less?🤷
It almost seems like all of this cLiMaTe cHaNgE PoLLuTiOn bs somehow always benefits the pockets of certain people rather than the poor person crucified for HaRmiNg the environment or the environment itself. But, being observant and logical just makes you a crazy conspiracy theorist...
You'll still have to clean the valves, just at a higher mileage
Get an oil analysis at your next change. If you're engine is good and there isn't a lot of fuel dilution you might be able to be good with 5-6K.
Oil change is cheap insurance, especially for GDI, however any named Full Synth should easily last 7K even on turbo as long as its not being diluted.
moral of the story: change your oil often. don't trust the oil life meter
Exactly!
Honestly surprised this engine/car lasted this long considering the ticking time bomb of its CVT and DI/Turbo engine.
Cvt, yes. Engine is surprisingly strong. I'm goinn on about 10k miles at 272whp/281wtq on my sentra sr turbo...exhaust and stock dp are keeping me from clearing 300whp rn...There was a juke that held somewhere around 425whp for about a year, daily driven as well.
Do turbo engine ticking time bomb? You know what the vr30 is? It’s the engine in the q50/60 and the new Nissan z, stock it pushes 372 wheel horsepower, it can be modded to 789 wheel horsepower on vrx70 turbos and 1000wheel horsepower on alpha 10 turbos. engine made by Nissan.
And variable oil pump
@@vladpopescu2201 250k+ mile engines if kept stock and maintained at appropriately frequent intervals. Maybe an intake port cleaning ever so often.
@TheMarcQ absolutely. I'm at 107k miles on mine, been tuned since about 80k miles I believe? I hit my 6850RPM limiter like 10x a day, and she fuckin loves it. Tuned on 53% ethanol.
Not trying to nitpick, but let me nitpick. Why is the electronic unit better than a simple thermostat? Sorry, this is like using cameras instead of side mirrors. I just wonder when enough is enough.
I know right......They're like Rube Goldberg contraptions.
More electronic is always better! Cameras instead of mirrors, solenoids instead of hydraulics, motors instead of solenoids, everything needs to be controlled by some sort of serial communications protocol which can be accessed over the air by the in car modem and requires regular software updates when hackers find the security key wad pilfered from an online tutorial. Get rid of buttons and move all the function to a huge massive touch screen stuck right in your face, move the seats with the touch screen, open the hood with a touch screen and we are working to steer the car with touch screen gestures. 98% of drivers use a cellphone to navigate instead of the huge touch screen but we have made no provision for this.
Thermostats pulse open and closed when warming up, causing the block to swing in temperature with varying heat loads until it reaches steady state. This can be reduced and mitigated with an electronic unit, and is able to remove heat quicker when under a short duration high load acceleration.
Additionally it will allow for quicker heating in a cabin with selective heat load
@@NickTroublegood comment, also it would be pretty retarded to have a mechanical thermostat in a car with an electric water pump…
Electronically augmented thermostats work good in turbocharged engines because they can be opened early under high boost to reduce temperature spikes.
Why Small Turbocharged Engines are a Failure: owners don't realize oil changes are important
people are so dumb and stupid nowadays that they think the extra power is free!
You can't really blame owners when manufactures make oil rings 2 times too thin and tell owners to change oil every 20k miles
@@TheMarcQ you can definitely blame the owner of this engine for its condition
Turbocharged DI engines (DI engines period really, but especially turbocharged ones) need their oil changed SOONER, not later. Direct injection comes with oil dilution as an inherent tradeoff. It depends on how the car is driven and how often it's driven (low speed and infrequent drivers get it much worse), but all DI engines have it to some extent. And the only way to keep it in check is so shorten your oil change interval. I do it every 3k in my 15 Honda Fit. I did it every 4k in my old 13 Honda Accord and 09 Mazdaspeed 3
you should keep an eye out for GM's new 2.7 turbo 4 cylinder. They "built it from the ground up" for high PSI turbocharging but left the block open deck. I want to say 27 PSI in its high output variant with the same block.
Ouch!
I'm thinking with that warped engine block design and the heads on so tight these probably at least don't blow very many head gaskets.
Makes me think about a design where they machine m/f grooves into the block & cyl head similar to fastening joints in woodworking. With a crush type gasket that fits in between.
Interesting idea.
Holy shit.. I'm *SO GLAD* I decided to start my engine repairs with a Tiburon, the 2.7L Delta engine is dead-simple and reliable compared to this mess.
Wow tibruon... haven't heard that name in a while!
Min TURBO ON MAN
There's a product that will clean stuck rings. you need to remove the plugs and add an amount to each cylinder and allow it to soak over 48 hrs while adding more occasionally . That engine uses stretch bolts on the head and even big ends and mains. I never get used to how close they seem to be to breaking when tensioning. Scary tight! Now take the next step and actually recondition the thing and put it bask in service.
This is also the engine in the Renault Clio RS! (Replacing the venerable F4R 2.0L non-turbo, the MR18 replaced the F4R 2.0L turbo in the Megane RS and Alpine A110.)
Ok
And maybe im planning to buy one soon after seeing this video!
I have one of these 2013 Jukes. 220k miles on it with original engine and CVT. I have abused the hell out of this thing almost since day one but have babied it when it comes to engine maintenance. expensive redline engine oil, OEM CVT oil, decarb etc. Started burning oil around 60k miles and when I first noticed it I started checking oil every at refuel. So long as I kept it fed with oil it was happy. It still runs fine, no rough idle, no CEL, but these days it only gets about 28mpg and sounds like a tractor lol been waiting on that CVT to fail for a year or two now.
Another good reason to change the oil regularly
This was a great informative video. Made me beleive even more why its so important to change your oil often and why you gotta treat GDI with extra maintainance in advance. Gone were the fun and less headache days of port injection.
Also GDI has a lot more oil-fuel dilution issues which should factor into your oil change interval. If I had a GDI, I'd be doing an oil analysis at 4-5K to see if while the oil might still be good viscosity is being reduced by fuel dilution. Feel sad for those folks simply going by the oil's label of 10K/20K oil change intervals...
The thing on the turbocharger intake side that you said "doesn't govern anything" is the recirculation valve. It's like a blow-off valve, but the outlet of the blow-off is routed right back around to the intake again, making a tight circle path for the air. When you close the throttle quickly, all the boosted air would have nowhere to go and that would overload the turbocharger. this allows the air to go somewhere and let the turbocharger spin down slowly instead of stopping abruptly.
Thanks but that thing isn't an actuator. There's nothing that moves on it. It was more of a sensor.
@@speedkar99 Open it up and you will see how it works. Nearly all OEMs use this type of BOV now. It's called a Compressor Recirculation Valve. A quick google search will describe how it works.
ua-cam.com/video/EqCAZDzJQ_s/v-deo.html
For your engine stand , go to Home Depot get a large masonry mixing tub and a milk crate .. cut the sides of the crate so it fits around the center pole of your stand .. you can put the mixing tub on top of the crate .. catches everything .. i drilled some holes in it tub ., used some sealing washers to prevent leaks and bolted it to my milk crate.. no more mess on the garage floor ..
Thanks for the suggestion. I think they make drain pans specifically for engine stands right?
Its Fall now, go pickup a kiddie wading pool for $10-15.
My 2011 Nissan Versa MR18 engine (and 4-speed automatic) still going strong after 250k miles without all that fancy crap and CVT.
that looks to be a good engine for tuning. stil it will need some special care.
1: it is a direct injected engine. this make it necessari to change the oil often. micro sot comes in to the oil and it act as a grinding paste. this attack every link of the timing chain and elongate it and it fails.
2: it is a direct injected engine so it need a secondary set of injectors to clean the inlet. this can also be used to put more fuel in to the engine for tuning.
3: the block is open deck. it will need a girdle or possibly new and stronger liner's.
the problem here looks to be all in to bad oil maintenance. this engine need a oil change every 5000 mile MAX and it need to use a good oil that can suspend all the micro soot.
for daily use i had tried to have a secondary oil filter to try to catch some of that micro soot.
Agreed with your points there. It's too bad this engine was temporary
Funnily enough, this is actually a Renault engine. For some reason with the Juke they used the French/Renault 1.6 instead of a Nissan engine.
Renault sells a lot of these small engines. Cheap mercedes a and cla sold in europe also have those renault engines.. Nasty
All Nissan 1.5 and 1.6 diesel are from Renault so is all Mercedes under 2littre
Puts his comment about German engines needing you to remove the turbo just to get at the valve covers in a different light. French engineered simplicity!
Because Renault own Nissan.
I was coming to the comments just to say this.
"I don't think I've experienced anything tighter than that" 😂😂😂😂
😂😂 you caught that
Awesome. I have been checking the channel everyday for the past two weeks for new a video
I was not aware that the MR16DDT was prone to carbon buildup considering it having both port and direct injection. Did nissan get rid of the dual injection 2014+ ? If you search for Nissan's marketing video of the mr16ddt/juke, it shows how the dual injection works. Most common failures I saw were the turbo's oil return tube would get heatsoaked and coke up oil and eventually clog causing premature turbocharger failure; replacing that tube with an upgraded braided nylon tube resolved this. Second was the earlier years had an under-spec timing chain that was supposedly updated to prevent premature chain wear, nissan covered this repair for me way out of warranty at no cost. It looks like something has been updated on your teardown as the oil drain looks larger than the 2013 I owned. I also do not remember there being a thermal jacket on the oil return line. As you had stated, that engine was highly, highly neglected. I was very impressed in my nissan juke, easily a favorite car I have owned and driven with plenty of torque before spool-up, ripped around corners wonderfully, gobs of acceleration in a small form factor, great steering feel with active torque vectoring, plenty of clearance for off pavement adventures especially after putting slightly larger all terrains on the thing- although I really enjoyed the quick response and consistent torque output of the CVT, the car was plagued with a trash flawed transmission destined to fail early.
Tuners got quite a lot of spare power out of this engine, especially in the manual models of the juke quite reliably as far as I am aware.
Thanks.
do you have a link to that marketing video
@@sentranizzy ua-cam.com/video/Rz9t1u5F6Uo/v-deo.html
I don't remember these ones having dual injection...
The 2014+ might be slightly updated to address the timing issue they had
@@speedkar99 I think this engine had several iterations. Some used a vacuum actuated turbo and a traditional thermostat, amongst other differences. Funnily enough, I have the factory repair manual for the 2013-19 Juke and as far as I can tell, it doesn't mention any of these electrically actuated thermostat and turbo wastegates. Plus it only has 2 VVT solenoids. Very strange indeed.
interesting to see what the engine in my Juke Nismo RS looks like and how it works. After almost 10 years and 125,000 kilometers, it still works like clockwork, has no increased oil consumption and has successfully passed the last maintenance without any problems..... i have manuell transmission version with 218 Hp
This is a MR16DDT V2(version 2) engine, if memory serves me correct, these weren’t put in non NIsmo RS Jukes till 2015. The version 1 was utilized until 2014 in the non NIsmo RS version Jukes. If memory serves me correct V1 mr engines didn’t have an EGR system like the V2. An Oil Catch can hooked up to the PCV system goes a long way to keeping bypass oil and fluids from getting to the valve and causing the carbon build up in these DIG engines. Please clarify?
Otherwise, great video, thanks!
Yes!
What immediately strikes me is the absolute mess of wiring, hoses and pipes wrapped around the powertrain. There wasn't even an attempt to make it neat or comprehensible.
I agree.....way too much going on eve I can't figure out what some of the stuff does.
My wife has the same engine in her 2016 Juke.
No trouble till now except a defective O2 sensor broken at 50000km.
Engine generally not easy to maintain or repair, due to the lack of accessibility under the wipers or inside the front bumper...
Thanks for sharing these steps and explanations !
You are welcome
Underneath the engine block there's one oil guide bolted on at each cylinder two are long and two are short. When I took mines off I forgot to check which were long and which were short. Did you take these off? If not can you take a look?
Educational, inspirational, enjoyable, thanks again ❤❤❤❤
You are welcome
I always love your videos. I learn so much about cars from those videos. Thank you.
Looks like this engine oil consumption isn't much different to a VW/Audi engine that isn't maintained properly.
I used to own an Audi with no oil consumption at all with 110K miles (177000 KM). The trick is to change the oil every 5000 miles.
Currently, I got an Audi A5 80K miles and no oil consumption. The newer version of 2 liter 4-cyl turbo engine runs cleaner. The oil was totally clean when I changed it at 5000 miles. It is also very fuel efficient at 34 mpg with 252 HP (I can regularly get 38 mpg on highway drives).
It's sad that the most basic maintainence is neglected.
I wonder how the 1.4L EcoTec engines hold up, especially ones that have been fed 87 octane fuel.
I have 2012 Cruze 1.4T EcoBoost. I run 89-91 in the summer and 87-89 in winter... I live in South Carolina (gets pretty hot, 105+ in summer)... I have a boost leak right now but I don't think it's from the turbo itself. I'm thinking my waste gate somewhere or in one of the feed lines.
All the issues my engine bay has is strictly GMs fault... Shitty plastic parts, no heat shielding where it needs to be, heat shielding where it SHOULDNT be, thermostats open at way to hot a temp... They stuck the god damn oil line for the turbo between the damn cat converter and the exhaust manifold with NO heat shield... Could have put it directly in the combustion chamber and it would have been colder!
Awesome video as usual. I do like your videos a little more than I Do Cars because you explain the engine a bit better instead of just ripping it apart. Thanks for the video
Easily one of the best channels on UA-cam 🍻🍻
Direct injection is good on a diesel engine not so much for a gasoline car.
Open deck was fne for Honda engines, up to ~twice the power. Then a blockguard was easy to install & good for about three times the power. Beyond that & sleeves were needed.
What about adding port injected alcohol to clean the ports & cool the air?
Might as well adapt dual injection at that point lol
First impressions of this engine layout makes me wanna nissan puke 🤮I can see you taking it apart that it makes a little more sense than it appears, but there's still quite a lot of lines, hoses, and wires all over the place.
Please make one of these for the 89-95 Ford Taurus SHO engine. I watch these whenever they're posted and really want to see that engine.
That would be awesome but where would you find such an engine? They're probably all gone by now
@speedkar99 i guess they would be hard to find, if you ever get the opportunity though that would be a very interesting video
Thanks for the video! I just got a juke RS with 25k miles. I got the clutch version. Love it! feels like you are driving a cooper S on stilts. lol
Great work man, keep it up buddy👍👍🔩
Thanks
Your jokes always catch me off guard fr, never expect them
Glad you enjoy it
That engine should or needs to be eco friendly as building all the pieces parts to make it run can not be something to smile about. Weird with all the soap boxing about carbon neutral yet the complexity make's it an oxymoron. 🙄 Great tear down & explanation SK 99. Oh how I remember being a Dad & doing chores (no videos) at the same time. Play pen in back of pickup, one eye on work, one eye on kids. Days gone bye now. "Adapt & overcome".
Haha thanks!
Being a dad is awesome, yes it's got responsibility but I love teaching so it's more of an opportunity, Even though my daughter is a few months old
If they truly cared about making it eco friendly, they'd use less plastic and more aluminum. Aluminium can simply be melted down and repoured like steel to repurpose it. Plastic is much harder to reuse or recycle.
You should do a collab with Eric from I Do Cars one day
He does good work! I watch him alot
@@speedkar99 same here
Great video! Do you know what's an oil catch can? It is intended to catch the oil from the air traveling from inside the to air intake (PCB?) to finally reduce the carbon build up on the intake valves. I am curious about your opinion about it.
Yes,
It's a good idea on direct injected engines.
Just make sure you empty it periodically!
Do you reccomend oven cleaner in the air intake to clean carbon? Spraying a can of oven cleaner after the maf sensor before an oil change, let the engine sit for four hours to let the oven cleaner do its thing. Then change the oil.
My new Rogue has the 1.5 litre 3-cyl KR15DDT that's making 201hp, wish me luck lol
Wow. 200HP was unattainable just a few years ago
The issue with putting small displacement turbocharged engines in production vehicles is that extra money and engineering needs to go along with it...the average driver will not be nice or change driving style to make it easier on the engine...or do extra maintenance...the engine needs to be built much more robust...not built down to the minimum to function at a price point...the carbon issue can be mitigated by changing the the average rpm its used at...make it only produce good power above 3000 and it will self clean and the higher average rpm will make it much less likely to allow carbon to stick anyway...
Agreed. More complexity on the assembly and the maintenance level.
@speedkar99 people will say they don't want to deal with the extra hassles but in the real world everything is give and take...you want efficiency and power...gotta take the extra price, complexity and maintenance involved as well...the same as people don't understand that their electric vehicles cause alot more pollution initially than gas and diesel vehicles, the power to charge them is by burning coal mostly, in America our electric grid can't handle the extra loads and to have any positive effect that car needs to drive for 5 years, but most batteries fail in 3 to 5 depending on use...then is difficult to recycle...I think it's less that people are ignoring the problem but the misinformation everywhere...thank you for your time and effort! Stay safe My Brother!
Pretty good, i was looking for the oil temp sensor and i think i saw it
Glad I could help
Does Nissan still make a turbo MR engine, given that turbo KR engines with similar displacement exist now?
Nice breakdown. Question: aside from frequent oil change, can Italian tune ups actually help this type of engine? There is really no avoiding direct injection with turbo these days.
At least many cars now use a secondary port injection along with direct injection. I think only to keep valves clean. All those extra parts & complexity to fix the F-up of the direct injection idea. Kinda crazy how engineers & car makers decided to go with direct injection then pawn the garbage off to consumers knowing full well it'll clog. I guess if a person can diy they can find good deals on used direct injection cars with clogged intakes & diy clean them. My uncle won a 2016 Ford Mustang I believe it was a 4cyl direct injection only ecoboost turbo. He did the smart thing & sold it.
@@michaelbrinks8089 , great points. But as far as I know only Toyota has intake port injection combined with direct injection, what other manufacturers do that?
@@test40323 I know a lot do now. I'd have to look to find specific ones. Now I'm curious to learn about the whole direct injection debacle in modern cars. Reminds me years ago I had an 86 Chevy Z24 hatchback. Star bits weren't very cheap/ common in 86. In the 90s I was changing it's water pump & a pully was held on by 3 bolts. But one was a 10mm (no problem) the other 2 I had to make my own custom tools to reach 1 was star bit, the other was an Allen head bolt. So I had to cut up a star bit & Allen wrench & then glue the tips inside a wrench for clearance room to reach them. They did it 100% on purpose coz they simply could have used 3 10mm bolts. I hate giving car makers money when I know they purposely screw people over.
I actually wanna build my own small fuel efficient vehicle. Something like a Piaggio mp3 (reverse trike configuration) but a lower seating position with an aerodynamic lightweight removable weather enclosure so it could be used in rain, cold light snow with no issues. Some removal saddlebags/cases & 3rd rear storage case & maybe some room behind the seat would be able to carry plenty groceries or travel gear. A 350 to 500cc engine & cvt trans would have plenty of power to keep up with traffic but the better aerodynamics 🆚 a motorcycle could get well over 70 mpgs.
The original Toyota Prius got 100mpgs but they purposely reduced consumer version to 50mpgs.
I suspect they don't wanna make a vehicle like I mentioned above because it'd be very affordable, easy & cheap to fix, and would greatly reduce oil sales = less profits for oil plus less gas tax revenues coming in for governments.
I think if I could build what I have envisioned in my head. Almost every young person would rather buy it than more expensive car. Since it'd carry 2 people tandem seated, could be used yr round like a regular car, is fun to drive, cheap reliable and cheap easy to repair. Basically the affordability & fun of a scooter, but more stable safe coz 3 wheels reverse trike that could be drove yr round coz enclosure but also partially removable for nice weather.
There is not much that Italian tune ups can do to intake valves except make it worse by dumping more oil through the pcv valve...
To my knowledge at least Volkswagen Group, Nissan, Ford and Toyota DI engines use dual injection. Haven't really gone through all car manufacturers, but it's likely all of them use intake port injection nowadays...
@@michaelbrinks8089How is it, living life thinking that everything is an anti-consumer conspiracy? Is it tiring?
I just saw another video that showed an oil burning problem because the turbo on these cars cracks and lets oil to leak into the turbo and then get pumped into the combustion chamber , and because of the crack the engine uses an extreme amount of oil and the engine gets very dirty.
Super helpful ! Extraordinary detail !! I learned lots !!! Thanks mate !!!! 👊🏼
I love your videos, so straight to the point but you take the time to tell us what certain parts are meant for. Keep it up, suh.
can you do dodge hornet with 2.0 engine? it's a new car and the engine looks more than capable enough for that size of car, I'm hoping it's of a good quality. seriously consider buying it.
I would love to get my hands on one
You love that tooth brush you used it to show us cvt.
Me too 😂
This engine have the clio rs trophy? Is reliable with good maintenance? Also have big longevity?
Was it a solenoid that controls the variable oil pump? I wonder if there’s a fail safe? It would suck to have the solenoid fail and then you lose oil pressure.
You had to take a crazy amount of stuff off to get to the timing cover. I wonder if there’s a more direct way for a timing job or if it’s an absolute nightmare?
The cylinder walls weren’t scored. The bottom end bearings were good. Just some camshaft wear. Was the oil consumption just due to stuck oil control rings? I wonder if they could be unstuck?
Cam buckets are better? Aren’t they a pain in the ass to adjust? You’d have to take the camshafts and buckets off no? I like my Honda roller rocker adjustment and learned how to do it.
My valve train also looks more orange than Donald trump due to 25 years of age and my brother used crappy oil and never changed it when he had it. Even after I’ve had it for ten years of using full synthetic oil there’s a lot of varnish but no sludge. I hope and expect my simple non VVTI, port injection, naturally aspirated timing belt engine can last until the rust eventually eats away my suspension connections.
Thanks for the interesting videos!
That muck in the intake also wouldn't happen if they weren't running crank case vapors and egr back to the intake (he said it). direct injection isnt better than port injection..better mixing of the fuel with port injection + with the current knowledge of regular injectors they are just as accurate( see Injector Dynamics) . the only good about direction injection is that they can use auto-ignition like a diesel but they tend not to.
So you basically get all the draw backs of a dirty engine and dont even actually get any efficiency
Yeah it's sad. They should do dual injection like Toyota did from the beginning
@@speedkar99that’s the only thing I understood. Everything else was a different language but interesting to learn about my engine
IT seems that all the car manufacturers have developed complicated small DGI / Turbo engines to meet government requirements for pollution and mileage. It also seems that these are all designed to work for 100,000 ~ 150,000 miles, after which repair is economically unfeasible. So... sell them before 100,000 miles! 😲
"I cut it because I don't have a spline socket set, and don't intend to buy one" 😂😂😂
Eff that flywheel lmao
Yep. I don't care it went to scrap anyway
I like how you're dissing the german competition
Just throwing some jokes at them lol
Nissan also used 1 litre turbo in juke
what about the toyota 3cyl in the corolla GR
Will carb cleaner help. What gas??
It seems to be that high pressure fuel pumps for DI are always cam driven.
Are any electric pumps, and if not, why?
Hmmm, are you referring to the power source of the pump or the actual mechanism of the pump?
As I see it, for the drive system, while driving the high pressure fuel pump via an electric motor is advantageous in terms of making the high pressure system independent of engine/cam rotation, the current cam driven system is simpler and its output controlled electronically via a solenoid.
As for the pumping mechanism, I doubt the pressures required by DI can be generated by anything other than the usual plunger type mechanism.
In other words, the advantages of the conventional mechanical/solenoid system combination are too compelling to warrant change.
Don't get it the wrong way but you seem unusually knowledgeable about cars than the average woman (or person for that matter). 👍👍👍
Pumps today are driven directly from the camshaft - so no losses and it's very efficient and simple. When driving with an electric motor, you first have to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy in the alternator - where you lose 20-30% of energy. Furthermore, today's cars are recharged by recuperation, so you lose another 10% plus you unnecessarily burden the battery and alternator brushes. Furthermore, the electric motor also has some efficiency, so you have additional losses and a limited lifespan. So you would get an ineffective pump that would have a short service life - and no advantages compared to the classic concept, I guess you don't want that.
@@abdul-kabiralegbe5660 thank you :)
@@neolerades2987 gotcha, makes sense and thanks.
I agree here...the conversation of energy warrants keeping it all mechanical
If it didn't have an exhaust recirculation, then the intake should be clean. I get it's all for economy and "saving the planet" and what not but that just causes more trouble.
The PCV system highly contributes to carbon buildup as well
There's a lot a gunk buildup due to direct injection, even worse than a high mileage diesel engine. Keep your multi point(MPI) old car engine if u want something reliable for the future!
Yes ...or duel injection
@@speedkar99 yes but dual injector is just double trouble, more shit to break
Thanks for this awesome in depth video , do you think if we put in a blanking plate for that egr system it will help and stop that dirty air going thru , I hate these systems, don’t know why we should pay for this crap killing our engines
In theory though, since you said the guy didn’t routinely change the oil and it lasted till almost 100k miles with just an oil leak into the cylinder wall with a little wear on the cams and gunk all over the place with it still being able to run is pretty good actually, I know engines that would die fast without routine oil maintenance especially with the widely used 0w-20 where I’m from
Yeah but having all this technology accelerates the problem.
@@speedkar99 but cars used to die out at 20-30k if you were lucky, I think technology has advanced the field significantly in terms of wear prevention and fault detection
It’s not technology itself that’s the problem, because after all, if we didn’t advance in tech in the first place mechanical engines wouldn’t have even been invented, I think what you are referring to is the wrong advances in technology
Why do you not like a block heater do not think it prolongs the engine life?
Once you turbocharge a small engine, whether it's 0.5 litres, it's no longer a small engine because the engine ends up displacing more air and consumes more fuel than suggested
I wonder how long the GM 2.7 will last?
They hype better fuel economy when there is none and more failures
In real world you don't get the fuel economy advertised
did he find a oil presure sensor i pass the vdo few time never hear of it was it me ? (i have a juke 2014 sv 1.6)the same engine ,thing happen the woman who have it before said never had a light in the dashboard and now she drink oil and now the oil is black event with a flush of oil you do 200km and she black like you did nothing the week before eny help proposition/théorie will be accepted just try to know if she is dying or there could be something to do about it which flush additive can i use or there no turning back and just need a rebuild thank all
User error!
Had same engine, 1 year newer. Zero issues. No oil burned.
I guessed it was turbo seal failure. Using cheap non synthetic oil, burning the oil and creating ash and hot spots around the turbo shaft etc.
New engine probably did the same as ignorant, cheap people are just like that.
Shame. It is one peppy engine in a fun car…
Agreed.... maintenance+ design that doesn't have tolerance for abuse is what roasted this one.
The Juke however is subjective lol
Can you make a video of which new cars are the most reliable easiest DIY to maintain?
Mazda seems to be doing good.
@@speedkar99 They rust pretty bad, no? Right now i have a 2007 Sentra and it's super easy to work on and parts are super cheap. But it is also old and i'm looking for my next new car.
Honda is still king of serviceability although Mitsubishi seems to have the simplest designs overall.
20:48 what is considered good and low quality oil?
The blend, the brand and viscosity. You'd be surprised what alot of lube shops use, including the dealer.
@@speedkar99 ok but my question is what is considered good and low quality brand of oil
if this engine had not had an oil change since 2016 and lasted 6-8 years and 100,000 miles, i'd say thats pretty good.
Yeah but not good for the owner. I believe it was burning oil but still running
There is nothing wrong with this engine, the issue with that engine is lack of servicing. I have had 3 of these cars with this engine and none of them burn oil. Still have 2 of them, the other got crashed.
How about the carbon buildup?
@@speedkar99 I have got one that one 2 miles a day 3 or 4 times a week still no issues from 4 years of use, also if you think there was carbon buildup in the that, check so euro trash on how carbon an oil are in there engines. Ps that engine never had a oil change in 7 years.
gas turbo get very heat and breake oil fast. change oil around 4.500mile
Sadly. And people don't change their oil
All these modern turbocharged engines thesedays have the same problem-too much heat and excessive pressure/strain on engine and components =failure. The manufacturers are trying to get as much power out of small cubic inch engines as they can while trying to maintain fuel efficiency, it’s recipe for disaster.
Yep. All in the name of emissions
Known problems, the ICU tech has been pushed to the limits, on top of that, new regulations made cars in the EU some 10% weaker around 2021. So it's worse now, imagine a hybrid car, shutting down the ICU all the time... Even high end cars may develop serious problems at 50k miles. An Au di / V W may need blasting with walnut cases to remove the deposits at this point. Nis san/Rena ult/Mer cedes engines are not famous for these problems. Maybe the last generation was the TCE engine. Featuring the variable oil pump - not directly driven, metal sprayed cylinder walls, turbo with electric actuator, belt without tensioner. It's direct injection, but does not have a high pressure pump. It does not have the insane wet running timing belt found in Peu geot/Fo rd, but a chain. Little ICU cars seem to be phased out, the new micra will be EV only.
Este bato si es un real MAESTRO EN ESTE TRABAJO COMO ME GUSTARIA APRENDER DE EL PERFECT ESPLICASION GRASIAS
Our Fiat 500 0.9 TwinAir is even worse 😂 these days it’s “normal” in Europe to drive a small engine, since you pay tax per cc in many countries in the EU. And with a fuel price of over $10 usd per gallon in my country, you don’t want to own a big engine 😂😂
Have you done the mazda PE20?
No
it would be great if you could do this to a B207E/L or R
I've already torn down a b18
could you please explain what you could do to maintain this engine and improve the longevity of it
Not much....direct injection turbo engines inheritly have these issues. Maybe a periodic valve cleaning and a PCV catch can and double the oil change intervals would help
@speedkar99 thanks for the response 👍
I have a 18' Jetta with the 1.4 turbo/manual transmission. No problems after 46,000 miles. Knock on wood.
46k isn't much. Hope it lasts double