Using Furring Strips to Attach Drywall to Block Walls
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- Опубліковано 3 гру 2020
- In order to install new electrical and drywall on block walls we installed wood furring strips to the concrete. Now bear in mind we are in the desert. If you are in a wet climate or in a basement please install a vapor barrier before adding the furring strips. It is also Code in most places in basements and in some houses so check your codes! Insulation is also a good idea if your in a cold climate!
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Best "how to" video on UA-cam! It doesn't even matter how the project turns out...the way you are involving the kids will last them a lifetime! Bravo.
Thank you
I really love you got the kids working and so they can appreciate the end result of the work completed. Got my subscription with the good work yall are doing thanks!
Thank you!
thank you so much!!! I am starting my architect studies, and this video was perfect, love it so much
Nice to see a dad showing his daughters how to work power tools and and learn how to do stuff like that
Thanks 👍
Absolutely. The attitude from builders in Scotland is very sexist, i.e. "You're a woman - you are not allowed to do men's work." It's pretty awful here - it's shocking the resentment from men towards women who want to do building tasks for themselves. Men here have tried to run women out their own homes due to the resentment - not joking - being very serious. The hatred is rife towards women here who try to do DIY tasks themselves. I can see that America / Canada are far more open about it. Thanks for the video. Love from Scotland, X.
Very cool. I live in a cinder block house as well and am contemplating doing this.
fun, fun. Good job! So great that you have your helpers!
They are!
Yes, that's the way kids learn and DIY later in life... Love it! Subscribed...
Thank you! I am having surgery and will be posting more videos of the kids soon!
I own a house in North Alabama. The exterior walls are cinderblock without exterior cladding. I always felt cold in the winter despite having a good hvac. The walls are freezing despite mild winters and very warm in the Summer. There is NO insulation between the cinderblocks and the sheetrock. The blocks and the airgap aren't enough to provide comfort. I'm slowly building up the frame, one room at a time, in order to have adequate rockwool and make it easier to cool and warm up.
Thank you for posting your video. It's great to see your family learn as you build your dream home!
that's the correct way to insulate cinderblock walls ua-cam.com/video/Py4k7hjJSCA/v-deo.html
Teaching your kids right. Great they’re helping you!!!
Thanks for showing your daughter helping. I immediately felt confident enough to take on this project!!
Thats awesome
I just bought a home that had wood paneling. After doing other repairs, i found out theres nothing but cinderblock behind the paneling. Which sucks. But this should help me get a idea of what i have to do. Thanks.
I’m thinking about doing this for my garage. Couple of questions. Do you have a 2x2 on the concrete floor as well and if so, how did you install it? And if I have existing outlets and fuse box, how would I go about getting them flush with the drywall?
Do you need vapour barrier between the bottom plate and concrete because of moisture? Or just use a pressure treated bottom plate instead? Also I think another viable option would be to have 2x4 strapping that is not touching the wall and have a bit of gap so you can pack it with more insulation since it’s not load bearing. Looks good though
So I get you're in the desert so vapor barriers and insultation aren't totally necessary (I guess). What caught my eye was the CMU block wall looked like there are/were mortar joints the seemed cracked/open. If they are compromised, I assume you repaired them? Also, when anchoring furring strips, you probably discovered that they should be sunk into the wood. That makes the drywall seat on the strips more securely. Hope your progress is smooth!
Yes my wife went and fixed the block wall with spray foam insulation and caulk afterwards. They aren't cracked all the way through to the outside. This is what the engineer had her do. She also went and pushed them in more before doing drywall.
Hey I’m trying to redo my home and I have some questions if you could help!!
Is it possible to just screw furring strips into the cinder blocks instead of into floor joists? We already have a ceiling in the room. Likely going to put up shiplap instead of drywall, but it’s a similar job.
Also - any idea on whether I would need a moisture barrier put up? (Minnesota)
You would need a moisture barrier in Minnesota. You can just screw into the blocks
That is how my old house was built. I am having issues with moisture. If anything is touching the outside wall, it traps moisture. If my closet has clothes touching the outside wall, the clothes become wet.
I thought I would see more comments about this
Awesome. Beautiful team work. Great job!!! I subscribed, I want to see the progress. 👍🏼
Looks really good for hanging drywall. Did you use a foil insulation/vapor barrier like AA2 Masonry Wall Insulation? It provides some R value and you could do it yourself without any special tools.
Could I use 1"x4" pine boards as furring strips instead?
Woah dude, this video is inspiring, thank you uploading it.
Your welcome
Did you have to drill a pilot hole through the wood first before the masonry screw?
For the wood along the floor can it get just glued down with liquid nails instead of nails driven into the concrete? Wondering so I can get my basement done but I do not want any water seepage from nails in the floor, ? I had a section in my basement that had nails in my floor that always cause a trail of water when it heavy rain?
liquid nails should work fine, in my situation the strength of the wall actually comes from the top where it’s getting screwed directly into the framing with a basement what I would do is see if you can take the vertical boards (studs) all the way up into the floor joists so you can attach them to the floor joists as well as the concrete or block walls, that way not all of the weight is on the block, if you can do that the liquid nails would primarily be used to keep the finished walls from separating from the block.
Great seein kids learning. Id insulate and do closets. Might as well since ya did all that. but just my 0.02.
we live in the desert. House stays cool in summer and just fine in the winter
What's the name of the screws you used for masonry
How much heat in the winter are you losing because you didn’t insulate the the porous (poor insulating) cinder block!! My downstairs has always been much colder than upstairs and just found out which I had a feeling the walls are not insulated!
16 inches between the wood furring strips, right?
Best arm flapping ever! 😂
Did you measure the window holes to make sure they are good with new Windows? Also did you put double furring ? Dinner do that so they can run wires and stuff between.
I did measure the windows but not to make sure new ones would fit, even if they weren’t standard window size I wasn’t going to cut into the block to change it, I’d rather order custom windows than cut the block. For the wires I just drilled holes through the 2x2s to run them through.
You dont put HVAC down do you? im starting my basement right now, but not sure if i need HVAC, because its cool in the summer and cool in the winter. Not sure if without return air, there will be mildew behind the wall.
In a basement I would put vapor barrier up. I would add some ventilation as well! That can simply be run in the ceiling and not the wall.
Cool to get the young'ns involved.
They help alot
Maybe I missed it, but how far apart do you place the furring strips?
12" apart
Did you have to drill pilot holes in either the furring strips or concrete; or were you able to just screw everything together in one step?
Yes, I started with just using a masonry bit through everything but after a few walls I started drilling holes in the wood with a regular wood bit then finished in the block with a masonry bit and a second drill.
FLORIDA HOME BUILT IN 2005 - I have noticed some moisture reading on my drywall and I made some holes...I discovered the concrete block home does not have insulation; there is simple drywall attached to half inch wood with silver aluminum I guess backing to maybe capture the moisture but there is only half inch empty space...and no foam, no other type of insulation. FOR SURE THAT IS NOT ENOUGHT TO MEET CURRENT BUILDING CODES IN THE POLK COUNTY; BUT IN 2005 MAYBE IT WAS LEGAL??? ANYADVICE HOW TO INSULATE THIS HOME? ITHOUGHT ABOUT SPRAY FOAM TO FILL THAT HALF INCH EMPTY SPACE. concrete block is filled with concrete to the top and there is stucco.
I know the material that you are mentioned, but I cannot remember the name of it off-hand. It is or was an approved material. I built my home here in Hillsborough County in 1999 using that on the inside of the exterior concrete block walls. It is stapled to the furring strips and provides a dead air space between the block and the sheetrock. It does provide some R-value and also acts as a vapor and radiant barrier with the aluminum face. I did, though, roll an asphaltic material onto the interior face of the concrete block wall before the installation of furring strips for an additional vapor barrier. This material you have mentioned I believe is called Touch n Foam. Home Depot carries it. As a mostly now retired State of Florida Certified Air Conditioning contractor, your home built in 2005 went through a fairly rigorous top-to-bottom building inspection process for code compliance. Building codes, though, are a minimum compliance requirement. You can Google the State of Florida Residential Energy Building Code to get an idea of how complicated all of this is.
This is cool. Have an offer in for my "retirement home" and looking to do this in basement. How much that kid charge per hour? lol She was working like a pro. Thanks for the video.
She is good! She actually did the entire house! Make sure to put vapor barrier down first in the basement and hope you get your retirement home!
@Rocket Family Farms just awaiting appraisal and inspection. Water seal the block, vapor barrier, and follow your tips. Probably add insulation, too.
She's a trooper. She could lead classes.
if i am using 2x4 what kink of screws would i use to attach them to the concrete wall?
Concrete screws would still work, We had to pre drill the wood holes and the drill into the concrete. 2 different bits and than a concrete screw
did you make a video on the electrical?
yes theres videos for most things
I'm planning to cover my concrete block house (not basement) with drywall, I live in Alabama so a lot of humidity here, what advice would you give to me? Please, I'm so ignorant with this so would you use concrete sealer or vapor barrier, if vapor barrier how would that be?
1) IDEA 1 : Studs, then vapor barrier between the studs and then the foam insulation and last thing drywall?,
2) vapor barrier the whole wall then install studs and then insulation between studs? Thanks
Common sense, vapor barrier then studs. I did my basement, rigid mat coming from under slab to French drain going up 3ft. Then drylocked wall above that. 2x4 frame 1/2 inch away from wall and filled the 1/2 gap with closed cell foam. Fiberglass between studs.
You would need a vapor barrier first on the walls before applying wood.
Since it’s not a basement you would probably be fine with three coats of dry lock on the walls.
Do you have to drill a pilot into the concrete? Or only pilot the wood strip and then drill the screw directly through the pilot in the wood and straight into concrete?
You have to drill a hole in the concrete and use the proper size drill bit that goes with the tapcon screw
What type or name of screws used for furniture strips ?
Masonry screws
Do we need to use pressure treated wood since there is direct contact between the wood and concrete ?
Yes you should
Can you drill and use the screws in the cinder block joints ?
Not reccomended. it can crack the joints and cause problems
How did you attach the furing strips to the walls ?
cement drill than screws. it shows in the video
Did you build the hole house yourself ? By the way Nice job .
Thank you! We bought the house and had to gut it. I will be posting pics sometime of the before! It was really bad.
you dont want your closets insulated?
The blocks are hollow. I'm having a very hard time. I tried tap con screws but since it's hollow, doesn't hold. I thought I would use short ones so that it didn't penetrate into the hollow part of the block. No luck. So longer ones, now is that helpful. concrete screws? I may have the same problem. I am just looking to put up drywall on the lower portion of a kitchen block/plaster wall --long story as to why.. the house was built in 1935 and they put up drywall on top of plaster before adding cabinets. I'm doing a renovation as a newbie. I'm replastering where an old pantry was and am trying to adds 1x3 at the base to attach drywall to at 36 inches to flow with the old portion. I can't get the tap cons secure. Anyway
What I found was in order for the crews to hold I had to pre-drill the holes and when putting the screws in I set my drill to slow and the torque to 7. I think to get it just right you’ll have to experiment. Since block is hollow longer screws won’t really change anything.
Another thought is you could put a dab of liquid nail in the holes before sending the screw in, initially it will feel the same but when it cures I would think it would hold, liquid nail expands slightly when it cures filling in the gaps.
Maybe I missed it, but did you not use anchors for the screws going into the blocks?
I didn’t, since they are masonry screws they act as anchors. They would not work as well in concrete and when I screw them in I have my drill set to 7 lbs torque so they don’t strip the holes in the block.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 how to block the noise from shared wall between two apartments?prefer not demo the wall
I would look at sound barrier insulation boards and products.
What do you do if the brick wall isn't completely even? I'm renovating a building built in the late 1800's and the brick isn't completely flat. I'm trying to figure out the best way of leveling out the 2x2's so the wall is at least somewhat even
You would have to use shims to make it more even. For structural purposes though make sure your block walls won’t cave in over time. I’ve had a couple blocks that were about 1/4” off and was able to tap them back into place and used construction glue to hold them when I did this to my house.
shims and you may have to cut some wood down.
offset your wall, dont attach to the other wall, then foam it. Fiberglass will not do it.
Is it ok if I use 2 by 4 instead? Does the code require 2 by 2 only?
2x4 is fine
Great video!! Question as I'm attempting a similar project...Have a detached cinderblock garage. Only using it for storage so I wont be insulating. I only plan to attached 1x4 studs then the drywall right on top of that. When putting on studs, is it important to get the frame of windows as well?
In addition, what can you do about protruding electrical wall outlets? If I put the studs on, the electrical outlet comes out slightly further than the stud and so it won't be flush with the drywall
dont know what he will say but yeah they actually cut a hole in the block , then spray foam inside and all around box.
1x doesn't give you a lot to nail into when attaching the drywall.
This is a great video but I’m looking for a video to take down these furring strips probably can’t find not one video. I have water coming in and have to seal the holes where the furring strips are being held up on
You would have to take a crow bard and pry them off if they are nailed in. If screwed then unscrew them. I know many building codes that have a vapor barrier behind them if they are in an area water can come in. Best of luck! If you want you should make a video! We can post it on our channel and give you credit!
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 thank u for your insight. Yes I took one off today with a crow bar OMG it’s going to be a long day lol. Not sure how I will remove the nails because it seems like they used some type of nail gun into the cinder block. Once I take them all off I have to repair the wall so water doesn’t enter through. I may try to record it I never did a video on here before thank u again
@@drod828 Most of the nails that I can’t get out of the concrete or block I just hammer sideways till it’s flat it’s probably not the best thing to do. the best thing would probably be grinding the tips off to make them flat with the wall using an angle grinder. If none of the nails are actually coming out of the wall can you use a sawzall or reciprocating saw and get a blade between the wood and the wall?
Did you use a masonry bit before the screws?
Yes, I started with just using a masonry bit but after a few walls I started drilling holes in the wood with a regular wood bit then finished in the block with a masonry bit and a second drill.
We have a similar project going on. How far apart are the screws? 2 feet or so? Thanks.
On most of them I put 5 screws which was a little shy of 2 feet.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 Perfect. Thanks!
Wow…couldn’t get away with that in Minnesota…those are above grade at least it appears….looks like some of the walls were at least moisture treated…cold air against warm walls = condensation…with the air channel it could be better or be worse…hopefully you don’t have to tear it out in a few years…I can’t count how many installs like that I’ve redone after mold developed, that was a common way of doing it for a lot of years though.
What would you do, put up plastic between the block wall and furring strips? I have a musty smell in my basement in the summer and haven't found the source yet. I too have drywall with nothing in the air gap between the block wall & drywall.
You would put vapor barrier up especially in a basement. This is above grade so code and being in a desert we are ok. There wasn't mold from the previous owners and there boards they had up.
No we lived in Iowa before and wouldn't do this there especially in a basement.
Foam insulation makes big difference in energy bill
We live in the desert and decided to not insulate. even with negative temps the house is maintaining its temp and the furnace isnt kicking on much. If we were anywhere else we would have insulated the walls. We have r60 in the attic
Holes have to be pre-drilled right?
yes
What type of electrical box did you use? I struggled to fit a standard modern size within 2x2 wall space. The previous owner drilled out a section of block wall to recess the box
I found some boxes at Home Depot that are only 1.5 inches deep, it’s a tight fit but it works.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 Shallow Single pole gang for the win!
@@LeonidasD828 correct!!
Double shallow box with a mud ring to make it single.
Are those 2x2 strips your using ?
Yes they are 2x2, if it’s for a basement or in a humid area they need to be treated lumber
why aren,t you using pressure treated wood ?
in my area it’s only code to use pressure treated lumber if it’s below grade since it’s not a basement and it’s above grade I can use standard lumber also I would have no idea where to find pressure treated 2x2’s
I would think u would at least want 2x4’s going in just so U could have a higher R value being ur going to live there permanently. 2x2’s for dwelling space is just to small for my taste.
I considered doing 2x4’s but since I’m not actually adding any insulation it wouldn’t make a difference. If I was adding insulation the 2x4’s would make much more sense since I could then use batted insulation which is a lot less expensive then foam insulation. Also with 2x4’s you don’t need to fully attach them to the block walls because they could stand up on their own just like an interior wall. That kind of decision really depends on where you live and how much $ is being invested in the project, for example I grew up in AZ in a block house with nothing but the block and paint and that really wasn’t a big deal there. I haven’t put up the drywall yet and I’m debating on adding a foil barrier between the boards and the drywall to add a little more but I don’t regret the 2x2’s since it’s just an air gap rather than a space for insulation. Who knows I may regret all of this in a few years and just move again lol
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 thanks for the reply. Yeah the more we know the more we look at what we did and say to ourselves, “what was I thinking back then”. We’re all in the same boat. Cheers!!!
How wide between the furrows
19" if i recall
What kind of insulation can you use for furring strip?
foam board insulation is made for things like this specifically, it comes in multiple thicknesses including inch and a half and is usually either pink or blue in color.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 --> But don't you usually attach the rigid foam board directly to the concrete, ThEN add furring strips, then drywall?
@@theamerican4609 You can get R13 with EPS foil backed 3/4 plus 3/4 air gap and then foil bubble wrap then drywall.
You can but we don't need it in the area we live.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 could be. We sure need it in Florida
is it possivble to take drywall and secure directly onto a stone wall using tapcons?
you could if its level and the wall wont settle
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 we have a limestone wall that ahs cracks on the plaster. they literally took plaster and palster the entire stone wall (no wood or lathe) its cracked. what would u advice in this circumstance?
@@randomrazr I would build a fake wall in front of it. anchor it to the concrete floor and then to the ceiling.
@@randomrazr I had a basement with limestone walls like that when I lived in the Midwest. The walls were completely uneven to the point where you would either have to keep putting more plaster up or build an entirely new 2x4 wall a couple inches inside the limestone wall. If you build a new wall it makes a nice surface but if the basement starts to leak that can become an issue to repair. Spray foam insulation might be flexible enough to prevent cracks but I’ve never used it to cover an entire wall. In the end it depends on your environment, if a leaky basement is unlikely then I suggest building a straight wall inside the limestone one, I didn’t do that because I was in a very wet environment at the time.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 this is on the third floor lol
Hello! Termites are a concern in my area. Any suggestion instead of the wood furring straps? Thanks.
They make metal ones there just cost alot more
Use pressure treated wood. Actually, you should ONLY use pressure treated wood in contact with cement or CMU anyway. The lime in the cement eats away at untreated wood, especially in damp locations like basement walls.
always insulate
So thats good enough for insulation?
It depends on where you live. We are in the high dessert with minimal rain and humidity. If you are in a humid rainy area I would put up a vapor barrier. If you are in a cold environment I would install foam insulation.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 I live deep south Texas so its mostly hot, and I purchased an unfinished ciderblock home so this video is perfect for the situation im in at the moment. Just wondering if that was enough or if I had to find a way to install insulation, but seems we live in same kind of weather. Thanks alot for posting the video
@@fabianadame9398 Thats awesome! You can subscribe and learn more about block houses! This is our second one. We use to live in Arizona.
What did you do about insulation for the block walls. I live in Missouri where we have hot summers and cold winters, so the blocks will be great for the summers keeping the heat out of the home, but since it's cold all winter long we need something to help maintain the heat. Any help is appreciated!
I wondered the same thing.
Our brick home holds the heat from the sun in those bricks, and it heats the house up.
you can put down foam insulation. You would also need vapor barrier
CMU > Vapor Barrier > EPS insulation > 2x4 walls with or without insulation in the cavity. CMU walls are very thermally conductive actually, and poor insulators. Add the R-values of the rigid foam EPS and the wall insulation to get the full R-value you need. i.e. If you need R-18, use R-13 fiberglass wall insulation plus R-6 rigid insulation.
If I could I would of added the foam.brick wall or block are so cold 🥶
We live in a hot climate.
You gotta use pt man.
That depends on the application and local building codes. In my area Pressure Treated is required for below grade installation only. Since this wasn’t a basement it wasn’t needed.
Power grab it n slab it
you're crazy for not insulating those bedroom walls - you will regret it.
we actually don't. We live in the desert. The cinder block walls help keep the house cool and it is retaining heat very well. We had negative temperatures and the house stayed very warm and the furnace hardly ran. I can't wait to get new windows in too! If we lived elsewhere we ould have insulated or if we had just cement walls.
He is wearing a winter hat & coat and says” I won’t need insulation” was this video shot in 1940? This is a perfect example of what NOT to do.
The reason is the house has no heat right now. Part of the house is also open. Its as cold outside as it is inside and we have to be in it 24/7 while we remodel. Sometimes we sure feel like we are living in the 1940's. We don't have the luxuries we are use to right now either.
@@rocketfamilyfarmshomestead1361 I know Xibidan said Americans should lower their expectation level, things will not be easy to come by anymore, like energy. So you will need insulation in them there walls!!
Pronunciation: it's not masonARY it's masonRY.
Blah blah blah blah.
wtf are you putting wood over outlet holes in the blocks
we aren't using those outlets. They are disconnected and all wires removed.
Anyone ever tell you that you look like Bam Margera (young version)?
nope
don't need the fast music, the fast forward, the kids, etc didn't show how to fasten the wall studs to the bottom plate
They should be pressure treated
depends on where you live and the codes
You're doing all that work. Doing it right includes drywalling the closets. That's the point. That's a regretful decision you have made.
Its not good to put wood directly on brick or concrete, it traps moisture and gives mold a place to grow. Generally you frame a wall 3 1/2 away from the brick.
I'm currently tearing up drywall that was placed on my basement wall exactly like this due to mold from condensation. The guy didn't block a window in properly so the heat from that mixed with the AC vent blowing on the wall created a moisture nightmare behind the vapor barrier that eventually ran to the floor.
Depends on where you live and building codes too.
Wow thats awful. Definantly need vapor barrier in a basement
My issue with this is when it's completed how would you prevent rats and cock roaches from creating holes in them starting their own families?
Hello anyone who sees my comment 😭 I live in Florida, Miami so you know how hot and humid it is ugh. And I want to es do my whole house drywall including the ceiling. Please help me out😭
Furring strips are 1x2 …
No insulation whatsoever? Are these bedrooms not going to be conditioned? By your outfit with gloves, hat and a heavy winter jacket it makes me think that you're in a cold climate.
We actually live in the desert. The house stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter. However right now its winter. Theres no heat in the house. Missing windows etc. It is cold right now!
Air is not insulation. Sorry
Trapped air is a natural insulator and because it is trapped, convection currents cannot be set up easily. So, trapped air reduces heat loss by conduction and convection. Many insulating materials incorporate trapped air.
No vapor barrier?
@@SC-ts3wd It isn't necessary where we live. Most peoples houses would need it.
To get R13 with 1.5in you need airspace. 1 1/2in foam will not do it.
It’s “masonry” not “masonary”.
Also you don’t show how to actually install the screws, you just showed the furring strips going up, sped up, with crappy music.
This is a video fail.
So, no insulation so you can be comfortable in the freezing weather...
we live in the desert... the house is very comfortable
No insulation,
dont need it where we live