HACK is right Hacks use crap methods like this. Master carpenters use the right materials. They plan ahead and don't say "I don't want to have to get some Tapcons" Big Thumbs Down
The best thing that happens every time a nitwit like you who absolutely doesn't get it posts a lame comment like yours is that the UA-cam algorithm picks up on it and the video gets another 50,000 views by people who do get it... so thank you for outing yourself as an ignoramus for the benefit it has for the rest of us! 😅 Big thumbs up for sure!
People who leave rude comments and play expert online must be lacking something in their life. This wasn't a hack on a Boeing aircraft. Seriously, just fastening a board to comcrete.
This isn't holding a whole house up. It's barely supporting weight. I cuss whoever put up the exposed sheet wall cover at the house I grew up in because the nails pulled right out and I'd have to fix it. The nails were the right thing to use. The method is in question. The result is frustrating. I'd rather replace the rotted sheet and find it was successfully held up with screws and wire than have to repair it because nails pull out.
OK, but if you live in the real world, you'll be asked to fix stuff at your relative's house when visiting them in the middle of nowhere Brasil, or you'll have to fix something your kid broke lest you pay 1000 euros to some cheap Airbnb landlord on an island somewhere. You can open the code book for what screws to use, but this guy shows us what we need to know.
For those of us that never thought they would be doing this type of work as adults and didn't feel the need to listen to our dads when he wanted to teach us these things, I thank you for the very valuable and helpful lessons.
This is a very reliable method that I've used numerous times in a pinch. You folks posting negative comments obviously have never tried this, first of all, but secondly you don't seem to understand that he's demonstrating a method, not presenting a video for state board scrutiny. A lot of viewers will find this video to be quite helpful. Great job.
Zip Ties. Drill the hole, stick a zip tie in the hole, clip it off flush, do it again so now there are 2 zip ties in the hole and flush with the wall. Set the screw into the hole and the screw will go between and grab the zip ties and expand right into the concrete and it acts exactly like this as well. Used this method for years and works every time.
I LOVE coming across these "could'a had a V-8" slap-forehead videos. I've been doing remodeling for decades, and this simple trick could have easily given me DAYS of my life back. My grandfather (long ago passed away) always used to say about construction "if it holds, it's the right answer". For levity sake, I'll also toss in that my old grand-dad once said after watching an ad for "cordless screwdrivers"... "ALL of my screwdrivers are cordless."
I've been doing my own renovations and building most of my life and this is one of the best hacks I've seen. Always been a proponent of tapcons, but this puts an entirely new dimension on fastening to concrete. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Me , carpenter for 35+ years , this is a good tip from a guy that obviously knows his stuff ...and better still is prepared to take the time out to share his knowledge with others, there will always be detractors and knockers ...funny thing is you don't see these type of people sharing insights into their skillsets because they don't have any ...simple stuff really...shut up or put up , I have decided to subscribe to this channel after seeing this video ..thanks for sharing :)
Really appreciate your viewpoint in this comment Tony. Thanks for subscribing too! I'm pinning your comment to the top of the list for awhile for its straightforward and sensible message. Best, Matt
It's in my nature to look for points of failure in EVERYTHING. Safety is paramount. I am impressed with this 'hack'. It has been added to the list. Thank you!
I made a mental note of this video when you first posted it over 2 years ago. I had my first chance to try this method last weekend. Wow! I am amazed at how well it worked. I had to put 6 screws into concrete block and they are really holding. I'm impressed. Thanks Matt.
Glad to hear it PCJ52... no surprise at all to me but I'm pinning your comment to the top for benefit of other viewers, especially those who can't see past a 'plastic plug paradigm' to a much better way. Thanks for watching and commenting on this! Best, Matt
Thanks for the informative video. I'm not a professional. Just a DIYer that knows my limitations. I'm mounting some wood supports to a cinder block wall in my garage for a folding work bench I built connected with a piano hinge. This was a great mounting method for me to use. I saved myself a trip to the big box TAPCON store and some $$$. Using a heavy duty hand me down hammer drill from my father, along with your excellent tip, made the job pleasurable. Can't imagine how anyone could have any issues with what you're sharing. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before someone criticizes the color of wire you used. Thanks again. Much appreciated.
@@NextLevelCarpentry "Criticizes the color of wire" LOL indeed. In the UK however.... That would be COL...Cry Out Loud. The PC Brigade Zealots over there are running (ruining) the country. But hey, let's stay positive: No politics here, right?
Hi, I have a handyman business, work as a sole trader, I come across your video last year and I have never tried your technique before until today I run out of wall plugs to secure skirting boards, so I followed your instructions. I was very impressed , very quick and easy and work really well. Absolutely Brilliant. Thank you for sharing 👏
I think you just discovered why I have not used a plastic plug for decades in my own custom carpentry business! I do use a lot of tapcons too for certain projects were more strength and corrosion resistance is required but use this method frequently for a wide range of fastening applications... 😎
Oh my, amazing how many "die-hards" are still out there who fail to see or consider what the offer is. I believe you mention it in your video, that you would first determine what application is required based upon the job at hand. You offered a viable and very workable solution when in a "fix". These "work-arounds" are great when I get a call from the kids to come and fix something around their home and the Hardware store isn't open! Thanks Matt, appreciate the tips and your manner of explanation.
Mark, I'm quite relieved to learn there's still enough viewers like yourself that are ABLE to see what's being 'offered'! I don't know the key to success, but the key to failure is trying to please everybody!
I'm a pretty particular kind of guy, as far as quality level goes. I don't like to see shoddy, half-assed work-arounds by semi-skilled (or unskilled) people - and examples abound! But job-tested, ingenious work-arounds by skilled craftsmen are always welcomed and admired. And by the way, your presentation is excellent. Well thought out advice, presented succinctly and understandably. Bravo.
ReRe, Thanks for your thoughtful and reasoned comment! It's frustrating to get slammed by those, unlike yourself, that 'can't see the forest for the trees' and totally miss the point shown in the video. Bravo backatcha! Best, Matt
GREAT! "Funny" to see you do this... I used to work for a PHONE COMPANY (not in the USA) and we needed to fasten wood to blocks just like you showed. We had no dowels handy so I used wires from a 100-pair phone cable -- JUST AS YOU DID !! This was MANY YEARS AGO -- 1974 to be exact! I am glad to be in same company as you ! BEST !!
Phone cable is often the best because it's so easy to adjust 'grab strength' by adding or removing those tiny wires! I probably didn't learn this trick until around 1989 or so so you beat me to it Al Catraz (great channel name BTW!) Best, Matt
Ive been fixing bits of wood to masonry walls for 60 plus years starting with timber wedges, lead and fibre plugs etc. and have never had full confidence in more recent methods as it is always dependant on the density and cohesive integrity of the material of the wall. Ive used all sorts of fillers when a plug wont hold but Ive never thought of using insulated wire which combines plastic and metal. Brilliant idea ! Just goes to show that there is always a very effective answer to a problem if only you are smart enough to think of it. Thank you.
Hey Matt, Just wanted to say hey and thanks. It's been a while since I've watched one of your videos, but as a younger carpenter with only 20 years in the trades, I still appreciate the knowledge that you so graciously present to us for no charge. It's unfortunate that so many people come to the comment section with a "hey you're doing this wrong" mentality and verbiage, rather than a "thank you for sharing, what about this?" or "have you tried (insert method), if so what were your results?" attitude. For those who take the time to read this comment, keep in mind that the first come off as an attack, and the other as graciously inquisitive. Which attitude do you think would be better for society to progress further faster? Keep putting yourself out there Matt, and everyone else as well! Just remember that certain approaches to conversations will breed negativity and other will breed growth for all. Cheers!
I'd add two 'hearts' or thumbs ups to your comment if I could Jacksmiles... it just made my day. Inquisitive optimists like you and I will probably always be left wondering when hit with 'hey you're doing this wrong' comments instead of the infinitely more productive 'what about this' ones. As a 'content producer' the most frustrating part is that the most vociferous 'doing this wrong' commenters, when challenged on their own level, are the first to scream 'you're just a hack who can't take constructive criticism'. Truly maddening at times which is the reason I'm going to 'pin' your comment for awhile so others might absorb it's positive, constructive influence. Best, Matt
Thanks for adding 'depending on climate' as a qualifier Scott, it's quite true. Always amazes me when some viewers get their undies in a bunch making declarations about 'NEVER use untreated wood on concrete' like treated wood has been around for centuries instead of decades. Go figure? Best, Matt
You're most welcome lin juan... I sometimes feel like I need a university degree in psychology to deal with some of the crazy comments this video seems to attract! 🙄😎 Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry i agree, colleges don't give you solid foundation on how things work in real life . Thank you for your hard work and patience sharing neat tricks of the trade!
@@robkocol5664 there's a whole semester course titled "why Pros don't use Rawl plugs" which must be mastered before graduating from the School of Hard Knocks😁😎 Best, Matt
I’ve used this method many times. It also works well with heavy weed wacker line. As with any ‘trick’ one must use some common sense to determine when it’s use is appropriate. Good job.
Get used to it, David, I predict this will happen with increasing frequency... happens to me all the time!😁😎 I can't count the number of times I've reached for a one of the short pieces of wire I keep in my fastener caddy. Best, Matt
You sir, are a REAL carpenter. Just your manner of solid delivery and confidence in your method tells it. This trick just made my day. Everything you said makes sense. I have a project that needed just this hack. I didn't even need to wait til the end to like and subscribe. Thank you so much.
Well, here ya go. I used this method on an first floor shutter on my house yesterday, & it worked perfectly. The beauty of this little trick is that I didnt have to buy some over sized cement anchor with a big hex head, I was able to use the decorative round nose screw that came with the shutter. Probably a 2½ #10. BTW, those plastic inserts anchors?...they dry rot & pop after time. This was the easiest fix I've attempted with this shutter (believe me, Ive done battle with it several times over the years) so Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing that testimony Jim... it's yet another application this method is ideally suited for. Just amazing how simple it is, how well it works... and how much derisive commentary it recieves 🙄 Best, Matt
@@TheMrchuck2000 I never would have made such a connection between philosophy and carpentry but you are spot on! Mr Sartre would surely have revised his quote were he still around. Best, Matt
I feel like I need to gather & hoard some vinyl coated electrical wire for home projects now. I have plaster, drywall, cedar shakes, aluminium siding, wood siding, plastic (sheds), plywood (garage), or studs, depending on where on my properties I am working. I have used varying grades of plastic anchors to varying success. This trick sounds like it's going to save me money, time, energy, and trips to the store. Thanks!
Your list of repair responsibilities sounds similar to mine Nathan... good thing about electrical wire; a little bit goes a long way so only minimal 'hording' is necessary. The wad I show in the video is what I keep in a drawer for all sorts of things but I only carry with me a fistfull of pieces about 10" long. Variety is more important than quantity for most impromptu jobs. You also sound like you've got enough experience to know when, where and how to use this to get reliable results. Best, Matt
This MASTER has been using this little trick since he borrowed it from a fellow tradesman 30 years ago... not sure where he learned it but great minds think alike, right?! Best, Matt
Ian Brown, timing is everything right?! I really appreciate your comment here which you will better understand if you read some of the negative comments about this simple and effective method. Best, Matt
I actually learned this technique a couple of months ago from an electrician and ive been using this trick since, obviously not for repetitive screwing, but if i had to put in 5 or 6 screws is concrete and i dont have tapcon this is an amazing trick
This is why we have to appreciate our old generations, the amount of knowledge and tricks they have is something that any new guy would think it's stupid or "there are tools for this" the fact is if you happen to be 2 hours away from a hardware store this will save you a whole day. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us.
Now THAT is a brilliant trick - which I will swipe! I have never had good luck with TapCons and lead anchors require such a big hole. Thanks so much for sharing.
Welcome to the Club! You've had the same revelation I did decades ago. Your biggest challenge going forward is dealing with the 'rawl plug zealots' who never will understand that there's a better way 😉😎 Best, Matt
Absolutely amazing, thank you for making this video. I decided to make built-in shelves in the basement laundry room. A coworker suggested using a powder actuated tool, and just like you said they are very unpredictable and tempermental. Luckily I found this video searching for alternative ways to fasten wood to concrete. Thanks again, you the man!
@ethaniel bennett I dont know where you are or how many tapcons you have drilled but the ones up here in Canada are very durable, not "one and done". They can be taken out and re-fastened without compromising strength. Tapcons are to code for timber to concrete fastening up here, so that's what we use. Ill admit I have used this technique once or twice in a pinch, but don't prefer it, as it's not up to code. When I do use this technique, I prefer to squeeze a tiny but of epoxy in the hole before I stick the wire in/put the board up. Just as a safety- but really, just buy a box of proper concrete fasteners and charge the client for it. If you are losing bids because the customer doesn't want to pay for the correct type of materials/fasteners, then I'd look for other jobs. Of course, not everyone has that luxury, so you do you boo. *(I do realize this video is for home owners and DIYers. But if you are gonna go through the trouble of making a video, why not teach them how to do it right?)*
@@mattchibi So a tapcon that's driven direct, without an added piece of wire, that doesn't hold as well as one with added wire that won't budge is preferred because "it's not up to code". I'd be curious to see the written code that defines that parameter. My guess is that the pullout/holding power is what code addresses, not how it was accomplished.
I was having a lot of trouble getting Tapcons to work in the brick walls of my daughter's house. I used this method with GRKs and it worked perfectly. Thanks so much for the tip.
Great tip. For formwork we always went 3/16ths hole with a piece of tie wire and a 16penny (double head for forms). I've also used 1/4" hole with 1/4 dowel rod and 16penny. The dowel rod would prevent spalling the surface of finished floors
Matt the great Long time no see I wish you are good. I tried this method on a kitchen installation job,when I ran out of the wall plugs at the end of the day.I hope the last two cabinets hung with this method will not fall later. Thank you again.
You're welcome Mehran... if you were attaching kitchen cabinets to a concrete/masonry wall and used this method for the last two cabinets (and did it properly) I'll put all my money on the last two cabinets staying in place over any installed with plastic wall plugs! Best, Matt
Thank you so much! Just used this for securing some shelves down in my basement. I could not believe how well it worked. Certainly better than most inserts.
Bloody brilliant idea. This has just demolished my 30 plus years of pissing about with rawl plugs, I’ve got the drill, I’ve got the screws and I’m pretty sure I’ve got the wire. Thanks for a great video, you now have one more subscriber!
I was a good 15 years in before I learned this trick but still remember having a similar eureka moment when I was shown this trick... so you're quite welcome.... and thanks for the sub! Best, Matt
FANTASTIC!!! Never thought about the Wire fill Idea and didn't think Standard Screws were strong enough to go the distance. in a Tub Enclosure Thank You so much for Sharing this-:).
Don't get distracted by the fact that I demonstrated this technique in a 'tub enclosure' area, OK? Make sure you choose fasteners of the right type and strength for the project you're doing. The wire part only makes it so whatever screws you choose grab well. 😁😎
Thanks for this great video! Since I only need to do a few holes, it was hard to justify the cost of getting special fasteners, hammer-drill, etc. Now I can accomplish the task with what I already have, thanks to you!
Have you ever read "Zen and the and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"? You are one of the characters on the MC trip. Like me you adapt to what's on hand to finish the job, while the other men would never vary the status quo. This man would make sure he had the "correct" expensive brand name fasteners because he has no inner confidence that anything else would work. I have done exactly what you have done with the same confidence you have. I can't do this in front of the other type man because doing so will trigger his inner fears. Fears that can cause panic within his insecure soul. Thanks again, you are a Man after me own heart. Griffin
TreeStump... This dialog is like 'Angie's List' in reverse... gives contractors a heads up about which customers they don't want to work with! Grind on, sir!
Done this a ton of times in a pinch when we didn't have the right size tapcons handy! Works fantastic. I've even used this on something like a door hinge screw that's stripped out, shave a skinny piece of wood to fit in the hole, then put the screw back in. Gives the screw something to bite into again and Tightens it right up.
Thank you for the time taken to show another method I’m sure that you could have done other pleasant things the time you sacrificed to do the vid .There are a lot of ingrates out there and the orthodoxy of others just points out how limited people are.After 30 years of bath and kitchen remodeling I realized that it’s always something to learn not only from the new methods and materials but from the past.I can learn even from the stupid how not to do things Thanks again for all and don’t be discouraged “dogs bark the caravan keeps going “
Thanks for your comment on this video John... I get the sense that you're a 'man in the arena' that Theodore Roosevelt lauded... always a pleasure to meet such a man! Best, Matt
I did this trick on a number of framing with 14-2 scrap electrical wires and it sure does grab. In some instance I even overkill by adding construction glue to the stud for peace of mind. Good video, thanks for confirming we all need to think outside the box at time!
Thanks, Matt. I wish I knew this trick/method when helping a couple build a new deck last year…on top of an incredibly sturdy 80-year old concrete pad! After killing too many ”blue screws,” we switched to concrete anchors, but this would have been faster, easier, and equally effective for our purposes. I really appreciate how how you explain your process - not only the how, but more importantly the why. I’m a new subscriber and am sure I’ll be back here often…and if there are ads to click, I’ll click them generously! 😊
Kind of amazing, right Jeremy? Always makes me chuckle when trolls comment about off-topic parts of this video and miss the main point! Glad you didn't get distracted by them and were able to capitalize on the 'hack'... Best, Matt
Good trick. I've been in this biz for 35+ years myself and I never thought of that but I can easily see how this works. Sometimes even Tapcons can be a little questionable when the hole isn't drill just right and this will fix that too. THANK YOU!
First time I was shown this little hack was for that exact purpose L. Scott: getting tapcons to grab in dicey brick and mortar on an historic building rebuild/repurpose project... been using and adapting it ever since... and it's been like 30+ years. Thanks for watching and commenting here!
@@NextLevelCarpentry Last year used Tapcons on joist hangers mounted on block and just didn't feel totally confident in them so I put a little Gorilla glue in each hole for piece of mind. I would have liked to known this trick. But now I do.
@@L.Scott_Music got to do what you got to do and the good part is not only is this better than Gorilla Glue it's quicker easier and less messy too. 😉😁😎
Great trick. I've used match sticks in holes in concrete to set in screws when we lived in China in an apartment with concrete walls, but the wire looks a lot better. Thanks a lot.
@@NextLevelCarpentry The old match stick trick is still a good one when you run out of wall plugs/rawlplugs.....This is a tip i will always remember thank you.
Essential craftsman channel recommended your channel. Saying you know your stuff. I can already tell he was not exaggerating. Can't wait to learn from your channel.
Thanks for letting me know, Christopher... and for following up on Scott's recommendation. I'll do my best to be worthy of so high a compliment. It will be no surprise to you that most aspirations I have for Next Level Carpentry parallel what Scott and Nate have achieved at Essential Craftsman... they set a very high, respectable and honorable bar for UA-cam, one that I strive to reach. I hope to get a chance, someday, to have a 'tailgate chat' with the man... Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry agreed. Scott certainly knows his stuff as well. It's people like the two of you bringing respect back to trade work. There is nothing more fulfilling that creating something from nothing. Between you both. People are able to see the respect a true craftsman deserves. Im a traditional joiner and a carpenter and watching your videos absorbing the I do is a indispensable tool for me. Not many craftsman on par with you and Essential craftsman in my area.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts here (and at Essential Craftsman) Scott, you're a key part of the whole UA-cam economy in providing insight, interaction, feedback, respect and appreciation for content producers... those things are pretty much the 'coin of the realm' in UA-cam-land and are greatly appreciated. 'Traditional joiner and a carpenter' are the core of work I like most and I'm sure you understand the satisfaction it provides (the fulfillment you mention). This NLC video and a few others are more contractor-oriented than carpentry oriented so I hope you find a little time to watch the Cutting Wide Coves video and others where there's sawdust instead of metal filings and sheetrock dust 😁 Best, Matt
Quick tip , never ever install wood against concrete , always use a foam gasket type material between wood and concrete , inside or out side applications , as 35 plus yr Bricklayer/ Stone Mason , I've was taught back in the day and still do it today use a foam barrier between wood and masonry or concrete . Even inside masonry still has some form of moisture content with change of seasons .Great tip on the wire trick
I've never used wire, but toothpicks and things like that also work well when the screw strips out. The reason he had to redrill the third hole was because the board moved a little after drilling the first two holes so the third hole wasn't quite in the right place in relation to the first two holes.
To all the "Gene Mean's and Dustin Morris's" out there: Whilst it's "fun" to watch and read how everyone's nose gets bent outta shape, please read the heading.. Matt described a "hack". In my world, a hack is something you do when you don't have all the "right" stuff at hand and you need to get a job done. Matt did state (0:33) that the correct way would be to use "tapcons" specifically suited to the purpose... Further, I believe your "building codes" would also dictate what is acceptable or not... just sayin'... Matt congrats on achieving 10K subscribers! Happy to say I'm one of them..
Mark, Thank you for wading into the fray and making such a resolute statement on my behalf and that of common sense. I assure you it's a statement of solidarity that I don't take for granted. Earning your congratulations at the 10k milestone motivates me to continue the effort to build Next Level Carpentry with content that attracts an audience of like-minded individuals to the benefit of all! Best regards, Matt
And at 44 seconds mark the laziness response " I don't want to go through the time or the expense" when he should have had the tapcons in his bag. look how much wire he's carrying, I think he could afford 5 screws in his bag, he's using a masonry bit anyway come on man. he needs common sense, not the fastest way out.
Yo, Brady, What does affordability have to do with anything? Granted, it's a clever and subtle diversion away from the main message shown in the video... but missing the message doesn't do much to establish whatever point you're trying to make. I suggest you re-watch the video a few times and take studious notes. Maybe after a few runs through it you'll catch up... and then if you still insist on dissing the idea then just let it go.
Many many thanks., I am not a home "handy-man" but retired mechanical maintenance and I know stuff goes wrong. I've also had problems with tapcons stripping out of cinder block and I;ve been reluctant to forge into installing hand rail in the bath. Now with this approach I feel confident I can have a secure install.
Yes Dean Or ends of matches. If it's a blind hole, just push it in and re-screw. If it's a through hole, like an edge of a hollow door, glue the match/toothpick in and re-screw. Sometimes it doesn't always suit to go to a bigger screw.
Take it from a retired carpenter of 40 years, This method works very good. Use a three sixteenths masonry bit with a common drywall screw (whatever length) . Hint: If going in concrete block, try to hit the web of the block. Also common tie wire works good.
Thank for your comment John... there's a lot of variations to this method depending on conditions and task at hand. The only thing I'd add is that common drywall screws are so 'brittle' that I don't use them for attaching wood since they snap so easily and I don't like digging them out with vise grips and re-screwing. But that's just me... with 40 years of carpentry under your tool belt you're the one who makes that choice. Best, Matt
I’ve used this method using a masonry bit, 16p nail and wire to connect 2x4’s to a concrete floor but never thought about using screws. Great idea! Thanks for sharing!
The biggest advantage is that this method allows you to remove boards without destroying them so I think you'll like/appreciate the 'upgrade'.😁😎 Best, Matt
First time watched N subscribed.Solving the problems on the spot is an excellent quality of a professional even if it is temporary. Thanks for sharing your years of experience with the world. May God help you brother.
I love old school tactics that simply work and have flexible applications. I came here with one question and your video opened the door to many solutions! Thank you very much! Wish i could leave 1,000 likes for this.
Very good 'trick'. I install hundreds of tapcons and occasionally have one that doesn't grab properly. I'll try this on those too instead of trying to ram a sliver of wood into the hole.
You're a smart guy Hue Janus (😂😂😂) stripped out Tapcons are the first application I learned for using the wire method... you'll find it works like a charm! It was only later that I started adapting it to regular construction screws, etc. You'll find it stronger and quicker than finding and using slivers of wood since once you find the right wire size/type it's infinitely repeatable. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Sometimes I run across 80 year old concrete that is so hard that even pre drilled and blown out the Tapcons strip. A bit of wax or other lubricant is one preemptive move that has served me well.
@@jonwikan3986 Yeah, there's some tuff old stuff out there... ever wonder what the actual p.s.i. of that stuff is?! It's got to be incredible! I like your wax tip... makes a lot of sense and must keep screws from binding and snapping too? Thanks for watching and commenting! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry , I also wonder how strong that stuff is? No rebar in my foundation but probably 8" thick (1953) Below grade, and lt has a lot of aggregate. I think it cured slowly below grade. When took out my basement slab and re poured with self consolidating concrete over 2 inch rigid insulation board, drainage gravel etc.. for the hydronic heated slab. They said it would end up at 8,000 PSI after say 30 days. I flooded that basement with water for a week and it was really rough pre drilling for a dividing wall even early in the curing process. Hammer drill is needed, as you said to avoid burning up the bit. or, add lots of lubricant but wow a regular drill takes a long time to drill a hole in hard concrete. When I ran out of wax on the old walls, WD-40 used liberally seemed to work as well. Just to get any grit out and to lubricate the pre drill hole. A quick tip for those using expanding threaded anchors, which are great, when they(instructions) say don't use in brick or cement block, it is true, Don't do it. Use the wire or lead anchor with a lag bolt solution. The expanding wedge anchors(such as Hilty) are for solid concrete only. I did a test and they will snap bricks and concrete block into pieces. The lead anchors are soft enough to handle a lag bolt and not break your brick or block.
@@jonwikan3986 I enjoy hearing from viewers who've 'been there'... thanks! BTW Have you ever tried these in lieu of expanding anchors: ua-cam.com/video/55mZwWkRX7c/v-deo.html I've not used an expanding anchor since 'discovering' LDT's years ago. Best, Matt
I've seen a lot of old anchors that were made of a piece of wood cut off the corner of a 2x4. The wire of different gauges is an excellent idea. And for all the people who say that only tapcons work, I have a question.. What do you do when they spin out and strip?? This video is the answer.
You GOT it, Wientz... no surprise to me but some will be convinced you're 'drinking the cool aide' with such a sensible opinion of this method. Thanks for your comment! Best, Matt
Reading these comments makes me a little sad. This carpenter is giving you a great hint here. I'm a retired Union Carpentry, and for ones who don't know what that is, it's carpentry mostly involving building forms for concrete. I've drilled thousands of holes, usually only worried about hitting rebar, but for the residential carpenter the trick given here is damn good one. I wonder how many jobs and years on the job the people giving these lame comments here have been on. These tricks come from years and years on the job, not your common garage carpenter. Just listen and try to grasp what a craftsmen is trying to say instead of thinking you know better. Concrete is basically rock, and the only way to drill into it is to have a drive that hammers while it is drilling. They came out with a rotohammer back in the 80's that was engineered to hammer more times a second than the ones made before it. It worked great. On the big job sites we had all the name brand rotohammers and this one was the trick for 1/4" drilling, but if you got bigger, and we'd drill up to 3/4, or even 1" holes you need a Milwaukee similar bigger roto. Point being here is that no matter how many times the hammer is hitting the drill, the hole is going to be bigger than the drill size because it's fricken rock and the constant hitting is enlarging the hole. So to feed a copper wire with a vinyl coat is a perfect idea for filling up the part of the hole that got enlarged over the size of the bit. Concrete blocks are a fine grade mix that doesn't have rock aggregate bigger than a very small pebble so the hole should be pretty tight, but when you drill normal concrete with bigger aggregate the drill bit has more chance to bounce around enlarging the hole.
A sincere thank you, Jerry, for the time you spent commenting on this video. The most encouraging thing about the part that 'makes you a little sad' is that 4,700 others agree with you and I compared to just 372 to make us sad. Guess the minority go through life fighting off good ideas in an effort to convince themselves they're right. The hard part for us is to just sit back and let 'em, right? Congrats on your carpentry career and making it through to retirement with enough wherewithall to enjoy it and share your insight and experience! Best, Matt
"I am lazy." Tapcon first would hold up in a wet location for alot longer. But better yet. Why doesnt he use proper bolts for concrete. Galvanized ones at that. Dont praise people for not feeling like getting the proper hardware.
Well Samantha, tell me just how YOU, a viewer of a video and totally disconnected from the work being done in it, believe your judgement is sound as to just what is 'proper hardware' yet chastise others by stating 'don't praise people...'? Profound.
Awesome video! I'm a contractor and love your vids! Don't worry about the haters. There's an excess of people just looking to get angry. I think this is an awesome trick!
Thanks Kyle, considering where you're coming from your comment is really appreciated! The 'haters' (online equivalent of sidewalk superintendents) tend to be a real distraction, especially when they make assumptions from obvious lack of experience. Hope you get a chance to check out a few other Next Level Carpentry videos... as a contractor you might find particular interest in the BS 1000 Board Stretcher video and the 'Build These Super Strong Sawhorses' with it's surprising load bearing stress test at the end. Best, Matt
I apprenticed for 4yrs under a "Master Cabinetmaker" from Austria. His formal training lasted 12 years then he moved to the US where he worked for 30yrs when i signed on. I have met 2 "Master" carpenters in my life. It's a big mantle to claim.
Matt, you'd have made a great marine engineer. We often have to make repairs on the high seas, in emergency situations and not necessarily with the mfr. certified parts. Safe, expedient and effective repairs are paramount. Believe it or not, you can’t just jump in the car and go to the Home Depot. Amazon doesn’t even deliver out there! I love your wire hack on so many LEVELS. In the past, when the tp has stripped, I’d hope to find a longer tp and/or bit in my kit, drill the hole deeper and then hand screw the tp in gingerly trying to avoid another strip. And those plastic tubes NEVER pull out with the flick of a pry bar during demo, right? I’d venture to guess that when moments and forces are calculated, over half the installed tps are in sheer with little tensile force required. Whatcha gonna do when that tp bit wears down and starts drilling holes too small, and your helper just broke the spare? I'm so glad that blue tp coating never grinds off when feeding into concrete or those things would have rusted away by now. Watching your other comprehensive vids where you tend to go over and above the “good enough," it would be a safe bet that you know the codes inside and out, and you wouldn’t use deck screws in an inappropriate situation. I existed in a wet, corrosive environment with machinery and fabrications of numerous different metals in contact. I can attest the copper and steel is fine in most household locations. Were you planning on keeping that hack immersed in salt water? I remember the day They invented pressure treat. All the wood rotted away If it contacted concrete. And every hard cut nail, Immediately disintegrated And surely did fail When the tap con was created. Those wannabe chemists With their electrolytic analysis Must have had their brains frozen With galvanic corrosion. Wish they’d contain Their eletroNegativity Inside their own rusty brain Chemistry. Sometimes you gotta Think outside the Big Box; Listen to the Professa From the school of hard knocks. Hope you made it through This lengthy epistle. The verse coulda been worse... I didn’t whistle.
My new favorite comment for this controversial video... thanks Francis! Crazy thing is some will read this and STILL miss the point! For some, no explanation is necessary... for others, no explanation is possible, right? Best, Matt
We use to do something similar in the old days we called pinch nailing. Where you drill a hole and pound 2 nails in the hole at the same time. Tapcons are used mostly now days.
Never heard it called 'pinch nailing' but I clearly remember when it was popular. I was bewildered from disbelief when I first saw Tapcons available! The concept of a fastener cutting threads in concrete? Astounding! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry It may be slang for the process in Florida. LOL..As you know Many terms are used in different areas of the country to define the same item or process. We call the rocks or bricks put under steel rebar to keep them from touching the ground ( hog apples). We call side cutter linesman ( Kleins ). We call the twist tool for doing steel ties a ( pigs tail) and the list goes on... lol
Gotta love territorial jargon from the building trades ball boy... 'hog apples' are new to me but 'pigs tail' is all to familiar and one I try to forget! Do you remember fuzz-board (Celotex sheathing) and how about 'beaver board' or 'wafer board' for OSB? A guy I worked with always made me laugh when he said he needed a driblitt for making holes... had to be there I guess? Best, Matt
@Next Level Carpentry Wonder if I could have some info on the 'Beaver Board".......just interested that's all.....no rush....I'm getting on a bit and my ' Hog Apples" are nearly touching the floor. :)
Great tip, thanks! I need to fasten PVC trim on the outside of concrete in some areas of my project. I'll be using cortex hidden fasteners w/plugs where the backing material is wood but was looking for a solution where I'll need to attach to concrete but would still like to be able to use the same fastener/plug, this idea will work perfectly!
Your's situation is one of the main reasons I did this video John... glad to know you realized it. Note: do a little experimenting with drillbit and wire size to find the right combination for maximum holding power vs snapping screws or stripping them adjusting either or both until you get it.... should work like a charm! BTW this is the method I use for attaching trim to interior brick and/or concrete walls because it's very adaptable for GRK torx drive trim screws too. Best, Matt
I for one appreciate every bit of the education that you provide here..I have learned a great deal..!! and anyone who doesn't and spews out negativity about this channel..they are not worth the time to even respond to...Thank you for posting all of your hard work and your wealth of knowledge and experience...
@@exnjute I'm not being sarcastic. I'm a plumber with 31 years of experience. My hands are cut multiple times a week, my pants are dirty everyday. I am an expert.
Yup, that's the way I've done it for decades. I keep some standard 14 gauge (from house wiring) in the tool box and have 3/16" and 1/4" Bosch Bluegranite concrete drill bits available to fit my #10 or #12 or even #14 screw shanks. I don't try to match the bit size to the shank size too carefully; when I insert the piece of wiring, it takes up the slack completely. Also the extra length of the Bosch drill bits allow me to drill right through the wood and then into the concrete with the same bit so that I don't need to remove and replace the wood again. If I don't even have wiring and screws in the toolbox, I'll just drill a hole and hammer in two nails or spikes at the same time, it holds. Nice work.
This is a great tip! I've used a lot of Tapcons and occasionally they don't hold. Using a wire of zip-tie might be a good alternative. I'll have to try that next time. Also, use a good hammer drill and good bit. The hammer drill I used initially in my basement remodel was old and the hammer action took too long causing the hole to be wider than necessary.
This is a very old craftsman trick I saw my Dad do when I was a young boy, but I forgot about it until I watched your video. Thanks for reminding us all. Cheers from Canada.
Thank you!! At my home, the screws were no longer holding the plywood against the cinder block (stripped). Based on this video, I removed the screws, inserted some scrap wire, and screwed back down. Now, it's tight and solid. Great video!!
Do you ever get the kind of pushback from using your method that this video gets in some of the comments? I didn't see that coming, that's for sure, and all for simple method for getting screws to grab in concrete... go figure, right? Thanks for adding your supportive comment here! Best, Matt
NLC, Matt.... Love your videos, keep them coming and just ignore all the "keyboard cowboy, "experts"..... who Always give themselves away by first off... telling everyone that they are!! By the way, I just came across your channel earlier this week and have watched several of your videos thus far... and I subscribed this evening, along with "ringing the bell" for video notifications. As I noted in a reply way down below to another naysayer..... I reattached some 2x6" boards (8ft each) to the concrete block walls of my shop, with the exact same method as you demonstrated here, in this video...... more than 14 years ago, now!! I have everything from multiple 3/8ths chains (in 10 to 18ft lengths) to heavy three and four ft. long pipe wrenches, large wrenches (up to 3" - bolt head/nut size) and welding cables hanging off of these 2x6's, and they are just as tightly attached to the walls as the day I reattached them. Also, the 2x6's are NOT pressure treated, and unlike your situation in the video.... the walls of my shop are, of course... "outside" walls, though I do use a water barrier treatment on them every couple of years (on the outside).... and the 2x6's have been there since the shop was originally built almost 34 years ago by the original builder/owner of my house and I've had it for nearly 17 years now. I have also used this method of attachment in my basement for 2x4's for hanging stuff, and also for use as attachment for large sheets of "pegboard" and never have had any separation or loosening issues at all. In a few of them I have used the construction screw (with Torx head) and wire combo in conjunction with modern day construction adhesive... like "Liquid Nails" ("Extreme Duty" - just because I happened to have some at the time). Keep up the good work and the videos coming.... God Bless you & yours. PS; The home I was raised in was a three story, 21 room "victorian" that was built between 1746 & 1747 (in northern New England, now I live not too far from you, Matt... in WY.).... survived THREE moves during its life to its final and current location (in 1933), and is still lived in and in great shape. Gee!!.... I wonder how all those fine ole houses have ever managed to survive all these years (and Centuries!!) WITHOUT the use of all these modern day technologies, gov't codes and inspectors (re: flunkies who can't get a "real" job in the "real world").
2Stroke, Thanks for spending all the time you did to add such a sensible comment to this controversial video... it brings perspective to it so others who might be inclined to a critical knee jerk reaction can better understand the benefits and shortcomings of the method. The applications and endurance you describe so completely mirror my experiences with the method very well. What scares me is the perception that building inspectors carry divine wisdom and sensibility when it comes to judgement on whether a system, method or installation is 'right or wrong'. I've said before in these comments that inspectors don't have any skin in the game like I do as a contractor. Fixing problems resulting from pathetic installations that were inspected and passed without issue account for a great deal of the jobs I get paid handsomely to re-do. It gives me great appreciation for folks like you who aren't proclaiming 'I'm from the government... and I'm here to help'
I LOVE pizza, dust Chip, so I'd better get to brainstorming on how to draw square circles! LOL It will be no surprise to you that I don't have the slightest problem with anyone who disagrees with something I show in a video, it's the ones who toss around uninformed insults, assumptions and generalizations that get me fired up enough to take the bait and jab back at 'em. I've been advised by UA-cam peers against responding to trolls but I'm still enough of a UA-cam novice that I just can't resist... someday I'll learn and do more banning and deleting 😒🙄😬😁😎 Best, Matt
Very helpful trick! Thank you! Only watched the video a month ago or so, thinking I might never use the technique. It worked yesterday on an installation where Tapcons would be too thick to be useful. Would not have tried it without your video, so thanks a lot! It worked well.
Thanks for the testimonial Lawton... especially in light of those who adamantly disparage the very thought of the method shown in the video... much appreciated! Best, Matt
A chiropractor will tell you that you need adjustments A physio will recommend soft tissue work A surgeon will tell you about what operation suits you best Someone who sells fasteners for a living will always comment on this type of video
No, there will be people with different backgrounds, and they will share their point of view/knowledge. To me there is no value in this tip. Unless you are on a worksite, forgot plugs and need to finish job on same day, and next hardware store is miles away. Also, please bear in mind there may be people with zero experience watching that will fix something heavy using this technique. And nowadays, cost of 100 plugs is what, $5 maybe?
@@lukenfoci I do believe this carpenter has more fun thinking about tricks like these than careful planning on the required equipment before starting the job. Sure planning isn't all that fun but if you wanna do a really good job of it you have your answer.
Just look at us. Everything is backwards, everything is upside down. Doctors destroy health, lawyers destroy justice, psychiatrists destroy minds, scientists destroy truth, major media destroys information, religions destroy spirituality and governments destroy freedom. Michael Ellner
Thank you for this quality tip. For many years I have used a matchstick to gain 'traction' in a slightly oversized hole in timber - I think your coated wire method is much better and more suitable for other substrates. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
You're welcome! I guarantee you'll feel like a rock star the first time you get yourself out of a jam using the wire trick... especially if someone is watching you!
Wow, that's rich! Can you provide concerned viewers with the video where you show how to use glued toothpicks to repair stripped out screw holes in wood? Man, THAT's pure genius, dude!
Its not another way. I am a diy person and would never consider putting anything in the driled out holes other then the proper screws or bolts. If you are in a pinch and dont have the proper materials needed to do the job, go and get them. Even my 11 year old daughter watched part of this with me and she knew not to shove wire in a hole to fill the gap from a wrong size drill bit. Wtong drill bit size or wrong screws, untreated lumber against concrete not to mention its holding a tub up.....if he is a lisenced contractor he should have it removed. If i were to see a contractor do that in my house they would be fired on the spot and kicked out.
91 supra, Let me see if I get your point: YOU say "it's not another way" and reach that conclusion by confirmation from your 11 year old daughter... is that right?! Interesting...
This looks like a good tip, having used matchsticks to fill stripped wood holes for years, but I fail to see the advantage over raw plugs if they are available?
Maybe it's because rawlplugs being plastic will deform under horizontal withdrawl force to get past irregularities in the wall whereas a metal wire with a plastic coating is more reinforced and thus less malleable? I've not used this technique but I've seen rawlpugs fail a few times (and they weren't all ones I placed!)
Thanks for adding that sensible observation Chris. It seems some viewers can't see the practical reality of this method's effectiveness from the lofty saddle on their high horse... never ceases to amaze me! Best, Matt
As a union carpenter, I can appreciate this "hack". On a daily basis, we anchor wood to concrete for formwork, where strength is paramount.....literally hundreds of times a day with a 3/16" bit, a 16d nail, and a piece of tie-wire. Cheap, fast, and holds like you can't believe.
HACK is right Hacks use crap methods like this. Master carpenters use the right materials. They plan ahead and don't say "I don't want to have to get some Tapcons"
Big Thumbs Down
The best thing that happens every time a nitwit like you who absolutely doesn't get it posts a lame comment like yours is that the UA-cam algorithm picks up on it and the video gets another 50,000 views by people who do get it... so thank you for outing yourself as an ignoramus for the benefit it has for the rest of us! 😅
Big thumbs up for sure!
NOBODY LIKES YOU!!
People who leave rude comments and play expert online must be lacking something in their life. This wasn't a hack on a Boeing aircraft. Seriously, just fastening a board to comcrete.
This isn't holding a whole house up. It's barely supporting weight. I cuss whoever put up the exposed sheet wall cover at the house I grew up in because the nails pulled right out and I'd have to fix it. The nails were the right thing to use. The method is in question. The result is frustrating. I'd rather replace the rotted sheet and find it was successfully held up with screws and wire than have to repair it because nails pull out.
OK, but if you live in the real world, you'll be asked to fix stuff at your relative's house when visiting them in the middle of nowhere Brasil, or you'll have to fix something your kid broke lest you pay 1000 euros to some cheap Airbnb landlord on an island somewhere. You can open the code book for what screws to use, but this guy shows us what we need to know.
For those of us that never thought they would be doing this type of work as adults and didn't feel the need to listen to our dads when he wanted to teach us these things, I thank you for the very valuable and helpful lessons.
This is a very reliable method that I've used numerous times in a pinch. You folks posting negative comments obviously have never tried this, first of all, but secondly you don't seem to understand that he's demonstrating a method, not presenting a video for state board scrutiny. A lot of viewers will find this video to be quite helpful. Great job.
Zip Ties. Drill the hole, stick a zip tie in the hole, clip it off flush, do it again so now there are 2 zip ties in the hole and flush with the wall. Set the screw into the hole and the screw will go between and grab the zip ties and expand right into the concrete and it acts exactly like this as well. Used this method for years and works every time.
Kind of like a poor man version of the toggler anchors. I like it!
Excellent idea.
I like it
ZIP TIES DON'T OFFER THE ADDED STRENGTH OF COPPER AS A BUSHING TO THREAD INTO..............."cheers!"
i like the idea of the additional (soft) metal (copper) better
I LOVE coming across these "could'a had a V-8" slap-forehead videos. I've been doing remodeling for decades, and this simple trick could have easily given me DAYS of my life back. My grandfather (long ago passed away) always used to say about construction "if it holds, it's the right answer". For levity sake, I'll also toss in that my old grand-dad once said after watching an ad for "cordless screwdrivers"... "ALL of my screwdrivers are cordless."
Old school tricks, sometimes forget about new modern techniques. Old tricks will never die. Well done sir.
Thanks, Zed Man... School of Hard Knocks is my Alma mater for them 'old school tricks'... I suspect you've earned a degree there too? :-)
agree great job i have often ran out of plugs great idea
I've been doing my own renovations and building most of my life and this is one of the best hacks I've seen. Always been a proponent of tapcons, but this puts an entirely new dimension on fastening to concrete. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Me , carpenter for 35+ years , this is a good tip from a guy that obviously knows his stuff ...and better still is prepared to take the time out to share his knowledge with others, there will always be detractors and knockers ...funny thing is you don't see these type of people sharing insights into their skillsets because they don't have any ...simple stuff really...shut up or put up , I have decided to subscribe to this channel after seeing this video ..thanks for sharing :)
Really appreciate your viewpoint in this comment Tony. Thanks for subscribing too! I'm pinning your comment to the top of the list for awhile for its straightforward and sensible message. Best, Matt
This gentleman knows his craft. I respect his intelligence and confidence. Good job!
It's in my nature to look for points of failure in EVERYTHING. Safety is paramount. I am impressed with this 'hack'. It has been added to the list. Thank you!
Thanks for recently watching and commenting on NLC videos First Last... much appreciated. Best, Matt
I made a mental note of this video when you first posted it over 2 years ago. I had my first chance to try this method last weekend. Wow! I am amazed at how well it worked. I had to put 6 screws into concrete block and they are really holding. I'm impressed. Thanks Matt.
Glad to hear it PCJ52... no surprise at all to me but I'm pinning your comment to the top for benefit of other viewers, especially those who can't see past a 'plastic plug paradigm' to a much better way. Thanks for watching and commenting on this! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Happy to make a tiny contribution.
nice trick. I've always used rebar tie wire. same principle...
Thanks for the informative video. I'm not a professional. Just a DIYer that knows my limitations. I'm mounting some wood supports to a cinder block wall in my garage for a folding work bench I built connected with a piano hinge. This was a great mounting method for me to use. I saved myself a trip to the big box TAPCON store and some $$$. Using a heavy duty hand me down hammer drill from my father, along with your excellent tip, made the job pleasurable. Can't imagine how anyone could have any issues with what you're sharing. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before someone criticizes the color of wire you used. Thanks again. Much appreciated.
'criticizes the color of wire' LOL!!! Glad to hear you grasped the tip here and found it useful Paul... nice! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry "Criticizes the color of wire" LOL indeed.
In the UK however.... That would be COL...Cry Out Loud.
The PC Brigade Zealots over there are running (ruining) the country.
But hey, let's stay positive: No politics here, right?
Hi, I have a handyman business, work as a sole trader, I come across your video last year and I have never tried your technique before until today I run out of wall plugs to secure skirting boards, so I followed your instructions. I was very impressed , very quick and easy and work really well. Absolutely Brilliant. Thank you for sharing 👏
Your video is awesome. For none believers and sceptics, instead of writing negative comments, just give it a go 😁.
I think you just discovered why I have not used a plastic plug for decades in my own custom carpentry business! I do use a lot of tapcons too for certain projects were more strength and corrosion resistance is required but use this method frequently for a wide range of fastening applications... 😎
Oh my, amazing how many "die-hards" are still out there who fail to see or consider what the offer is. I believe you mention it in your video, that you would first determine what application is required based upon the job at hand. You offered a viable and very workable solution when in a "fix". These "work-arounds" are great when I get a call from the kids to come and fix something around their home and the Hardware store isn't open! Thanks Matt, appreciate the tips and your manner of explanation.
Mark,
I'm quite relieved to learn there's still enough viewers like yourself that are ABLE to see what's being 'offered'! I don't know the key to success, but the key to failure is trying to please everybody!
Compare the "likes" to "dislikes" - that'll tell you all you need to know to keep doing what you're doing...
I'm a pretty particular kind of guy, as far as quality level goes. I don't like to see shoddy, half-assed work-arounds by semi-skilled (or unskilled) people - and examples abound! But job-tested, ingenious work-arounds by skilled craftsmen are always welcomed and admired. And by the way, your presentation is excellent. Well thought out advice, presented succinctly and understandably. Bravo.
ReRe,
Thanks for your thoughtful and reasoned comment! It's frustrating to get slammed by those, unlike yourself, that 'can't see the forest for the trees' and totally miss the point shown in the video. Bravo backatcha!
Best,
Matt
UGH some Canadian guy just came in here and talked my ear off for ten minutes, then I read your whole comment with a Canadian accent. Sorry man
GREAT!
"Funny" to see you do this... I used to work for a PHONE COMPANY (not in the USA) and we needed to fasten wood to blocks just like you showed.
We had no dowels handy so I used wires from a 100-pair phone cable -- JUST AS YOU DID !!
This was MANY YEARS AGO -- 1974 to be exact! I am glad to be in same company as you !
BEST !!
Phone cable is often the best because it's so easy to adjust 'grab strength' by adding or removing those tiny wires! I probably didn't learn this trick until around 1989 or so so you beat me to it Al Catraz (great channel name BTW!) Best, Matt
I tried this in a project where I am putting in plywood wall in my cement garage. Your trick with the wire works like a champ. Thanks!
Hi I'm a carpenter for over 30 years I must say that is a great tip thank you for this great solution... thank you
I had been a carpenter for probably 15 years when I first saw this trick and have used it ever since... you're most welcome... Best, Matt
Ive been fixing bits of wood to masonry walls for 60 plus years starting with timber wedges, lead and fibre plugs etc. and have never had full confidence in more recent methods as it is always dependant on the density and cohesive integrity of the material of the wall.
Ive used all sorts of fillers when a plug wont hold but Ive never thought of using insulated wire which combines plastic and metal.
Brilliant idea ! Just goes to show that there is always a very effective answer to a problem if only you are smart enough to think of it.
Thank you.
Hey Matt,
Just wanted to say hey and thanks. It's been a while since I've watched one of your videos, but as a younger carpenter with only 20 years in the trades, I still appreciate the knowledge that you so graciously present to us for no charge. It's unfortunate that so many people come to the comment section with a "hey you're doing this wrong" mentality and verbiage, rather than a "thank you for sharing, what about this?" or "have you tried (insert method), if so what were your results?" attitude. For those who take the time to read this comment, keep in mind that the first come off as an attack, and the other as graciously inquisitive. Which attitude do you think would be better for society to progress further faster? Keep putting yourself out there Matt, and everyone else as well! Just remember that certain approaches to conversations will breed negativity and other will breed growth for all. Cheers!
I'd add two 'hearts' or thumbs ups to your comment if I could Jacksmiles... it just made my day. Inquisitive optimists like you and I will probably always be left wondering when hit with 'hey you're doing this wrong' comments instead of the infinitely more productive 'what about this' ones. As a 'content producer' the most frustrating part is that the most vociferous 'doing this wrong' commenters, when challenged on their own level, are the first to scream 'you're just a hack who can't take constructive criticism'. Truly maddening at times which is the reason I'm going to 'pin' your comment for awhile so others might absorb it's positive, constructive influence. Best, Matt
Great comment!
Thanks guys! Best, Matt
good idea with the wire. would just like to say, depending on climate,it's a a good idea to use treated wood on concrete or masonry. thanks again.
Thanks for adding 'depending on climate' as a qualifier Scott, it's quite true. Always amazes me when some viewers get their undies in a bunch making declarations about 'NEVER use untreated wood on concrete' like treated wood has been around for centuries instead of decades. Go figure?
Best, Matt
He didn't learn this from a university... Thank you sir for your generosity .
You're most welcome lin juan... I sometimes feel like I need a university degree in psychology to deal with some of the crazy comments this video seems to attract! 🙄😎 Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry i agree, colleges don't give you solid foundation on how things work in real life . Thank you for your hard work and patience sharing neat tricks of the trade!
Glad to share tricks of the trade with appreciative viewers like you, @@valpanig ... Thanks for commenting! Best, Matt
This skill was clearly learned in the University of "Hard Knocks". Thanks for sharing..
@@robkocol5664 there's a whole semester course titled "why Pros don't use Rawl plugs" which must be mastered before graduating from the School of Hard Knocks😁😎 Best, Matt
I’ve used this method many times. It also works well with heavy weed wacker line. As with any ‘trick’ one must use some common sense to determine when it’s use is appropriate. Good job.
Great comment Robert... and I like your weed whip twine suggestion! Thanks. Best, Matt
I had watched this about 2 weeks ago and filed it away as a useful tip. Sure enough I needed this exact "hack" a couple of days later. Thanks!
Get used to it, David, I predict this will happen with increasing frequency... happens to me all the time!😁😎 I can't count the number of times I've reached for a one of the short pieces of wire I keep in my fastener caddy. Best, Matt
I've since used this trick for loose screws in door hinges, works well! A year on and still holding!
You sir, are a REAL carpenter. Just your manner of solid delivery and confidence in your method tells it. This trick just made my day. Everything you said makes sense. I have a project that needed just this hack. I didn't even need to wait til the end to like and subscribe. Thank you so much.
I'm in construction and thank you Matt! It will come in handy in my stucco repair business here in Arizona. Thanks again, Matt!
Well, here ya go. I used this method on an first floor shutter on my house yesterday, & it worked perfectly.
The beauty of this little trick is that I didnt have to buy some over sized cement anchor with a big hex head,
I was able to use the decorative round nose screw that came with the shutter. Probably a 2½ #10.
BTW, those plastic inserts anchors?...they dry rot & pop after time.
This was the easiest fix I've attempted with this shutter (believe me, Ive done battle with
it several times over the years) so Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing that testimony Jim... it's yet another application this method is ideally suited for. Just amazing how simple it is, how well it works... and how much derisive commentary it recieves 🙄 Best, Matt
As Jean-Paul Sartre (never) said, "Hell is a UA-cam comments section."
@@TheMrchuck2000 I never would have made such a connection between philosophy and carpentry but you are spot on! Mr Sartre would surely have revised his quote were he still around. Best, Matt
I feel like I need to gather & hoard some vinyl coated electrical wire for home projects now. I have plaster, drywall, cedar shakes, aluminium siding, wood siding, plastic (sheds), plywood (garage), or studs, depending on where on my properties I am working. I have used varying grades of plastic anchors to varying success. This trick sounds like it's going to save me money, time, energy, and trips to the store. Thanks!
Your list of repair responsibilities sounds similar to mine Nathan... good thing about electrical wire; a little bit goes a long way so only minimal 'hording' is necessary. The wad I show in the video is what I keep in a drawer for all sorts of things but I only carry with me a fistfull of pieces about 10" long. Variety is more important than quantity for most impromptu jobs. You also sound like you've got enough experience to know when, where and how to use this to get reliable results. Best, Matt
I figured this out by myself. Quite thrilled that A MASTER uses the same method. Made my day sir. Thank you.
This MASTER has been using this little trick since he borrowed it from a fellow tradesman 30 years ago... not sure where he learned it but great minds think alike, right?! Best, Matt
Bam! Was just pulling my hair out having a bunch of screws stripping out their holes in block, watched this vid and now I’m gold.
Many thanks.
Ian Brown, timing is everything right?! I really appreciate your comment here which you will better understand if you read some of the negative comments about this simple and effective method.
Best, Matt
I actually learned this technique a couple of months ago from an electrician and ive been using this trick since, obviously not for repetitive screwing, but if i had to put in 5 or 6 screws is concrete and i dont have tapcon this is an amazing trick
This is why we have to appreciate our old generations, the amount of knowledge and tricks they have is something that any new guy would think it's stupid or "there are tools for this" the fact is if you happen to be 2 hours away from a hardware store this will save you a whole day. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us.
Now THAT is a brilliant trick - which I will swipe! I have never had good luck with TapCons and lead anchors require such a big hole. Thanks so much for sharing.
Welcome to the Club! You've had the same revelation I did decades ago. Your biggest challenge going forward is dealing with the 'rawl plug zealots' who never will understand that there's a better way 😉😎
Best, Matt
Absolutely amazing, thank you for making this video. I decided to make built-in shelves in the basement laundry room. A coworker suggested using a powder actuated tool, and just like you said they are very unpredictable and tempermental. Luckily I found this video searching for alternative ways to fasten wood to concrete. Thanks again, you the man!
Projects like yours are the main reason I did this video Ryan... should work like a charm! Best, Matt
Yessir. Works every time, the real beauty is that it can be removed and rescrewed in the same hole. Tapcons are usually one and done.
You know it ethaniel... it even helps 'stripped out' 'one and done' tapcons grab with the right wire size. Best, Matt
@ethaniel bennett I dont know where you are or how many tapcons you have drilled but the ones up here in Canada are very durable, not "one and done". They can be taken out and re-fastened without compromising strength. Tapcons are to code for timber to concrete fastening up here, so that's what we use. Ill admit I have used this technique once or twice in a pinch, but don't prefer it, as it's not up to code. When I do use this technique, I prefer to squeeze a tiny but of epoxy in the hole before I stick the wire in/put the board up. Just as a safety- but really, just buy a box of proper concrete fasteners and charge the client for it. If you are losing bids because the customer doesn't want to pay for the correct type of materials/fasteners, then I'd look for other jobs. Of course, not everyone has that luxury, so you do you boo. *(I do realize this video is for home owners and DIYers. But if you are gonna go through the trouble of making a video, why not teach them how to do it right?)*
@@mattchibi So a tapcon that's driven direct, without an added piece of wire, that doesn't hold as well as one with added wire that won't budge is preferred because "it's not up to code". I'd be curious to see the written code that defines that parameter. My guess is that the pullout/holding power is what code addresses, not how it was accomplished.
I was having a lot of trouble getting Tapcons to work in the brick walls of my daughter's house. I used this method with GRKs and it worked perfectly. Thanks so much for the tip.
Thanks for watching and commenting Edward... this is still one of the most useful 'hacks' I know and use...
Great tip. For formwork we always went 3/16ths hole with a piece of tie wire and a 16penny (double head for forms). I've also used 1/4" hole with 1/4 dowel rod and 16penny. The dowel rod would prevent spalling the surface of finished floors
Matt the great
Long time no see
I wish you are good.
I tried this method on a kitchen installation job,when I ran out of the wall plugs at the end of the day.I hope the last two cabinets hung with this method will not fall later.
Thank you again.
You're welcome Mehran... if you were attaching kitchen cabinets to a concrete/masonry wall and used this method for the last two cabinets (and did it properly) I'll put all my money on the last two cabinets staying in place over any installed with plastic wall plugs! Best, Matt
Thank you so much! Just used this for securing some shelves down in my basement. I could not believe how well it worked. Certainly better than most inserts.
Glad to hear it... sounds like the perfect application for this 'hack' Nun Ya... thanks for taking the time to comment to let me know! Best, Matt
In the meantime, a rival contractor is trying to figure out who stole the engine wiring harness from his truck...
Robert Korn 😂😂😂
lmao
If you saw a union bug on his tools, I'd say hey!
who cares, job done
lol!
Bloody brilliant idea. This has just demolished my 30 plus years of pissing about with rawl plugs, I’ve got the drill, I’ve got the screws and I’m pretty sure I’ve got the wire. Thanks for a great video, you now have one more subscriber!
I was a good 15 years in before I learned this trick but still remember having a similar eureka moment when I was shown this trick... so you're quite welcome.... and thanks for the sub! Best, Matt
FANTASTIC!!! Never thought about the Wire fill Idea and didn't think Standard Screws were strong enough to go the distance. in a Tub Enclosure Thank You so much for Sharing this-:).
Don't get distracted by the fact that I demonstrated this technique in a 'tub enclosure' area, OK? Make sure you choose fasteners of the right type and strength for the project you're doing. The wire part only makes it so whatever screws you choose grab well. 😁😎
Thanks for this great video! Since I only need to do a few holes, it was hard to justify the cost of getting special fasteners, hammer-drill, etc. Now I can accomplish the task with what I already have, thanks to you!
Have you ever read "Zen and the and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"? You are one of the characters on the MC trip.
Like me you adapt to what's on hand to finish the job, while the other men would never vary the status quo. This man would make sure he had the "correct" expensive brand name fasteners because he has no inner confidence that anything else would work. I have done exactly what you have done with the same confidence you have. I can't do this in front of the other type man because doing so will trigger his inner fears. Fears that can cause panic within his insecure soul. Thanks again, you are a Man after me own heart. Griffin
It's not what you got but how you use it, right!
TreeStump... This dialog is like 'Angie's List' in reverse... gives contractors a heads up about which customers they don't want to work with! Grind on, sir!
LAST SATURDAY I MADE $ 700 GRINDING STUMPS I CALL THEM GOLD NUGGETS MADE OUT OF WOOD!!!😀😀😀😀😀 I LOVE STUMP GRINDING!!!😀😀😀😀😀😀
What a cool comment, haha. I have to check that book out
Zen and the Art of motorcycle maintenance.. it's a classic, read it several times, philosophy, and basic usable real world bike tech .. brilliant!
Done this a ton of times in a pinch when we didn't have the right size tapcons handy! Works fantastic.
I've even used this on something like a door hinge screw that's stripped out, shave a skinny piece of wood to fit in the hole, then put the screw back in. Gives the screw something to bite into again and Tightens it right up.
Thank you for the time taken to show another method
I’m sure that you could have done other pleasant things the time you sacrificed to do the vid .There are a lot of ingrates out there and the orthodoxy of others just points out how limited people are.After 30 years of bath and kitchen remodeling I realized that it’s always something to learn not only from the new methods and materials but from the past.I can learn even from the stupid how not to do things
Thanks again for all and don’t be discouraged “dogs bark the caravan keeps going “
Thanks for your comment on this video John... I get the sense that you're a 'man in the arena' that Theodore Roosevelt lauded... always a pleasure to meet such a man! Best, Matt
im 58 and still learning!!! Thank you
I did this trick on a number of framing with 14-2 scrap electrical wires and it sure does grab. In some instance I even overkill by adding construction glue to the stud for peace of mind. Good video, thanks for confirming we all need to think outside the box at time!
Thanks, Matt. I wish I knew this trick/method when helping a couple build a new deck last year…on top of an incredibly sturdy 80-year old concrete pad! After killing too many ”blue screws,” we switched to concrete anchors, but this would have been faster, easier, and equally effective for our purposes.
I really appreciate how how you explain your process - not only the how, but more importantly the why. I’m a new subscriber and am sure I’ll be back here often…and if there are ads to click, I’ll click them generously! 😊
I just used this technique and WOW. Thank you so much!
Kind of amazing, right Jeremy? Always makes me chuckle when trolls comment about off-topic parts of this video and miss the main point! Glad you didn't get distracted by them and were able to capitalize on the 'hack'... Best, Matt
Good trick. I've been in this biz for 35+ years myself and I never thought of that but I can easily see how this works. Sometimes even Tapcons can be a little questionable when the hole isn't drill just right and this will fix that too. THANK YOU!
First time I was shown this little hack was for that exact purpose L. Scott: getting tapcons to grab in dicey brick and mortar on an historic building rebuild/repurpose project... been using and adapting it ever since... and it's been like 30+ years. Thanks for watching and commenting here!
@@NextLevelCarpentry Last year used Tapcons on joist hangers mounted on block and just didn't feel totally confident in them so I put a little Gorilla glue in each hole for piece of mind. I would have liked to known this trick. But now I do.
@@L.Scott_Music got to do what you got to do and the good part is not only is this better than Gorilla Glue it's quicker easier and less messy too. 😉😁😎
Great trick. I've used match sticks in holes in concrete to set in screws when we lived in China in an apartment with concrete walls, but the wire looks a lot better.
Thanks a lot.
I think you'll appreciate the difference if you get a chance to try it. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry The old match stick trick is still a good one when you run out of wall plugs/rawlplugs.....This is a tip i will always remember thank you.
Essential craftsman channel recommended your channel. Saying you know your stuff. I can already tell he was not exaggerating. Can't wait to learn from your channel.
Thanks for letting me know, Christopher... and for following up on Scott's recommendation. I'll do my best to be worthy of so high a compliment. It will be no surprise to you that most aspirations I have for Next Level Carpentry parallel what Scott and Nate have achieved at Essential Craftsman... they set a very high, respectable and honorable bar for UA-cam, one that I strive to reach. I hope to get a chance, someday, to have a 'tailgate chat' with the man... Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry agreed. Scott certainly knows his stuff as well. It's people like the two of you bringing respect back to trade work. There is nothing more fulfilling that creating something from nothing. Between you both. People are able to see the respect a true craftsman deserves. Im a traditional joiner and a carpenter and watching your videos absorbing the I do is a indispensable tool for me. Not many craftsman on par with you and Essential craftsman in my area.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts here (and at Essential Craftsman) Scott, you're a key part of the whole UA-cam economy in providing insight, interaction, feedback, respect and appreciation for content producers... those things are pretty much the 'coin of the realm' in UA-cam-land and are greatly appreciated.
'Traditional joiner and a carpenter' are the core of work I like most and I'm sure you understand the satisfaction it provides (the fulfillment you mention). This NLC video and a few others are more contractor-oriented than carpentry oriented so I hope you find a little time to watch the Cutting Wide Coves video and others where there's sawdust instead of metal filings and sheetrock dust 😁 Best, Matt
Quick tip , never ever install wood against concrete , always use a foam gasket type material between wood and concrete , inside or out side applications , as 35 plus yr Bricklayer/ Stone Mason , I've was taught back in the day and still do it today use a foam barrier between wood and masonry or concrete . Even inside masonry still has some form of moisture content with change of seasons .Great tip on the wire trick
I've never used wire, but toothpicks and things like that also work well when the screw strips out. The reason he had to redrill the third hole was because the board moved a little after drilling the first two holes so the third hole wasn't quite in the right place in relation to the first two holes.
To all the "Gene Mean's and Dustin Morris's" out there: Whilst it's "fun" to watch and read how everyone's nose gets bent outta shape, please read the heading.. Matt described a "hack". In my world, a hack is something you do when you don't have all the "right" stuff at hand and you need to get a job done. Matt did state (0:33) that the correct way would be to use "tapcons" specifically suited to the purpose... Further, I believe your "building codes" would also dictate what is acceptable or not... just sayin'...
Matt congrats on achieving 10K subscribers! Happy to say I'm one of them..
Mark,
Thank you for wading into the fray and making such a resolute statement on my behalf and that of common sense. I assure you it's a statement of solidarity that I don't take for granted. Earning your congratulations at the 10k milestone motivates me to continue the effort to build Next Level Carpentry with content that attracts an audience of like-minded individuals to the benefit of all!
Best regards,
Matt
And at 44 seconds mark the laziness response " I don't want to go through the time or the expense" when he should have had the tapcons in his bag. look how much wire he's carrying, I think he could afford 5 screws in his bag, he's using a masonry bit anyway come on man. he needs common sense, not the fastest way out.
markforrestsm o
Yo, Brady, What does affordability have to do with anything? Granted, it's a clever and subtle diversion away from the main message shown in the video... but missing the message doesn't do much to establish whatever point you're trying to make. I suggest you re-watch the video a few times and take studious notes. Maybe after a few runs through it you'll catch up... and then if you still insist on dissing the idea then just let it go.
What, go to bed early and miss the late night comedy show starring Brady McClanahan? NO WAY, dude! (at least I got you to laugh, didn't I? :-)
Many many thanks., I am not a home "handy-man" but retired mechanical maintenance and I know stuff goes wrong. I've also had problems with tapcons stripping out of cinder block and I;ve been reluctant to forge into installing hand rail in the bath. Now with this approach I feel confident I can have a secure install.
My dad taught me about using toothpicks in worn screw holes in wood. Same principle I suppose. 👍
Yes Dean
Or ends of matches. If it's a blind hole, just push it in and re-screw. If it's a through hole, like an edge of a hollow door, glue the match/toothpick in and re-screw. Sometimes it doesn't always suit to go to a bigger screw.
Just drill it out and super glue a piece of chop stick in there, much more reliable
Papyrus P after lunch
tooth pics or any "splinter" or "shard" will do in wood - add some wood glue too.
also use tooth picks or steel wool
Take it from a retired carpenter of 40 years, This method works very good. Use a three sixteenths masonry bit with a common drywall screw (whatever length) . Hint: If going in concrete block, try to hit the web of the block. Also common tie wire works good.
Thank for your comment John... there's a lot of variations to this method depending on conditions and task at hand. The only thing I'd add is that common drywall screws are so 'brittle' that I don't use them for attaching wood since they snap so easily and I don't like digging them out with vise grips and re-screwing. But that's just me... with 40 years of carpentry under your tool belt you're the one who makes that choice.
Best, Matt
I’ve used this method using a masonry bit, 16p nail and wire to connect 2x4’s to a concrete floor but never thought about using screws. Great idea! Thanks for sharing!
The biggest advantage is that this method allows you to remove boards without destroying them so I think you'll like/appreciate the 'upgrade'.😁😎 Best, Matt
First time watched N subscribed.Solving the problems on the spot is an excellent quality of a professional even if it is temporary. Thanks for sharing your years of experience with the world. May God help you brother.
Good trick, one I'd forgotten. We used tie wire and 16d nails back before everyone had cordless drills.
I love old school tactics that simply work and have flexible applications. I came here with one question and your video opened the door to many solutions! Thank you very much! Wish i could leave 1,000 likes for this.
A comment and a 'like' is enough kidphilly... thanks! Best, Matt
Very good 'trick'. I install hundreds of tapcons and occasionally have one that doesn't grab properly. I'll try this on those too instead of trying to ram a sliver of wood into the hole.
You're a smart guy Hue Janus (😂😂😂) stripped out Tapcons are the first application I learned for using the wire method... you'll find it works like a charm! It was only later that I started adapting it to regular construction screws, etc. You'll find it stronger and quicker than finding and using slivers of wood since once you find the right wire size/type it's infinitely repeatable. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Sometimes I run across 80 year old concrete that is so hard that even pre drilled and blown out the Tapcons strip. A bit of wax or other lubricant is one preemptive move that has served me well.
@@jonwikan3986 Yeah, there's some tuff old stuff out there... ever wonder what the actual p.s.i. of that stuff is?! It's got to be incredible! I like your wax tip... makes a lot of sense and must keep screws from binding and snapping too? Thanks for watching and commenting! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry , I also wonder how strong that stuff is? No rebar in my foundation but probably 8" thick (1953) Below grade, and lt has a lot of aggregate. I think it cured slowly below grade. When took out my basement slab and re poured with self consolidating concrete over 2 inch rigid insulation board, drainage gravel etc.. for the hydronic heated slab. They said it would end up at 8,000 PSI after say 30 days. I flooded that basement with water for a week and it was really rough pre drilling for a dividing wall even early in the curing process. Hammer drill is needed, as you said to avoid burning up the bit. or, add lots of lubricant but wow a regular drill takes a long time to drill a hole in hard concrete. When I ran out of wax on the old walls, WD-40 used liberally seemed to work as well. Just to get any grit out and to lubricate the pre drill hole. A quick tip for those using expanding threaded anchors, which are great, when they(instructions) say don't use in brick or cement block, it is true, Don't do it. Use the wire or lead anchor with a lag bolt solution. The expanding wedge anchors(such as Hilty) are for solid concrete only. I did a test and they will snap bricks and concrete block into pieces. The lead anchors are soft enough to handle a lag bolt and not break your brick or block.
@@jonwikan3986 I enjoy hearing from viewers who've 'been there'... thanks! BTW Have you ever tried these in lieu of expanding anchors: ua-cam.com/video/55mZwWkRX7c/v-deo.html I've not used an expanding anchor since 'discovering' LDT's years ago. Best, Matt
I've seen a lot of old anchors that were made of a piece of wood cut off the corner of a 2x4. The wire of different gauges is an excellent idea. And for all the people who say that only tapcons work, I have a question.. What do you do when they spin out and strip?? This video is the answer.
You GOT it, Wientz... no surprise to me but some will be convinced you're 'drinking the cool aide' with such a sensible opinion of this method. Thanks for your comment! Best, Matt
I was going to say YOU are some NEXT LEVEL professional, then I saw THAT is actually your on line title!! LOL Thank you.
Reading these comments makes me a little sad. This carpenter is giving you a great hint here. I'm a retired Union Carpentry, and for ones who don't know what that is, it's carpentry mostly involving building forms for concrete. I've drilled thousands of holes, usually only worried about hitting rebar, but for the residential carpenter the trick given here is damn good one. I wonder how many jobs and years on the job the people giving these lame comments here have been on. These tricks come from years and years on the job, not your common garage carpenter. Just listen and try to grasp what a craftsmen is trying to say instead of thinking you know better. Concrete is basically rock, and the only way to drill into it is to have a drive that hammers while it is drilling. They came out with a rotohammer back in the 80's that was engineered to hammer more times a second than the ones made before it. It worked great. On the big job sites we had all the name brand rotohammers and this one was the trick for 1/4" drilling, but if you got bigger, and we'd drill up to 3/4, or even 1" holes you need a Milwaukee similar bigger roto. Point being here is that no matter how many times the hammer is hitting the drill, the hole is going to be bigger than the drill size because it's fricken rock and the constant hitting is enlarging the hole. So to feed a copper wire with a vinyl coat is a perfect idea for filling up the part of the hole that got enlarged over the size of the bit. Concrete blocks are a fine grade mix that doesn't have rock aggregate bigger than a very small pebble so the hole should be pretty tight, but when you drill normal concrete with bigger aggregate the drill bit has more chance to bounce around enlarging the hole.
A sincere thank you, Jerry, for the time you spent commenting on this video. The most encouraging thing about the part that 'makes you a little sad' is that 4,700 others agree with you and I compared to just 372 to make us sad. Guess the minority go through life fighting off good ideas in an effort to convince themselves they're right. The hard part for us is to just sit back and let 'em, right? Congrats on your carpentry career and making it through to retirement with enough wherewithall to enjoy it and share your insight and experience! Best, Matt
I was union too. Thousands of holes in concrete. This video was a waste of my time. Paragraphs... are your friend.
As is your comment...
"I am lazy." Tapcon first would hold up in a wet location for alot longer. But better yet. Why doesnt he use proper bolts for concrete. Galvanized ones at that. Dont praise people for not feeling like getting the proper hardware.
Well Samantha, tell me just how YOU, a viewer of a video and totally disconnected from the work being done in it, believe your judgement is sound as to just what is 'proper hardware' yet chastise others by stating 'don't praise people...'? Profound.
Awesome video! I'm a contractor and love your vids! Don't worry about the haters. There's an excess of people just looking to get angry. I think this is an awesome trick!
Thanks Kyle, considering where you're coming from your comment is really appreciated! The 'haters' (online equivalent of sidewalk superintendents) tend to be a real distraction, especially when they make assumptions from obvious lack of experience. Hope you get a chance to check out a few other Next Level Carpentry videos... as a contractor you might find particular interest in the BS 1000 Board Stretcher video and the 'Build These Super Strong Sawhorses' with it's surprising load bearing stress test at the end.
Best, Matt
I apprenticed for 4yrs under a "Master Cabinetmaker" from Austria. His formal training lasted 12 years then he moved to the US where he worked for 30yrs when i signed on. I have met 2 "Master" carpenters in my life. It's a big mantle to claim.
And?
Matt, you'd have made a great marine engineer. We often have to make repairs on the high seas, in emergency situations and not necessarily with the mfr. certified parts. Safe, expedient and effective repairs are paramount. Believe it or not, you can’t just jump in the car and go to the Home Depot. Amazon doesn’t even deliver out there! I love your wire hack on so many LEVELS. In the past, when the tp has stripped, I’d hope to find a longer tp and/or bit in my kit, drill the hole deeper and then hand screw the tp in gingerly trying to avoid another strip. And those plastic tubes NEVER pull out with the flick of a pry bar during demo, right? I’d venture to guess that when moments and forces are calculated, over half the installed tps are in sheer with little tensile force required. Whatcha gonna do when that tp bit wears down and starts drilling holes too small, and your helper just broke the spare? I'm so glad that blue tp coating never grinds off when feeding into concrete or those things would have rusted away by now.
Watching your other comprehensive vids where you tend to go over and above the “good enough," it would be a safe bet that you know the codes inside and out, and you wouldn’t use deck screws in an inappropriate situation. I existed in a wet, corrosive environment with machinery and fabrications of numerous different metals in contact. I can attest the copper and steel is fine in most household locations. Were you planning on keeping that hack immersed in salt water?
I remember the day
They invented pressure treat.
All the wood rotted away
If it contacted concrete.
And every hard cut nail,
Immediately disintegrated
And surely did fail
When the tap con was created.
Those wannabe chemists
With their electrolytic analysis
Must have had their brains frozen
With galvanic corrosion.
Wish they’d contain
Their eletroNegativity
Inside their own rusty brain
Chemistry.
Sometimes you gotta
Think outside the Big Box;
Listen to the Professa
From the school of hard knocks.
Hope you made it through
This lengthy epistle.
The verse coulda been worse...
I didn’t whistle.
My new favorite comment for this controversial video... thanks Francis! Crazy thing is some will read this and STILL miss the point! For some, no explanation is necessary... for others, no explanation is possible, right? Best, Matt
Legendary! The Walt Whitman of swinging a Hammah!
We use to do something similar in the old days we called pinch nailing. Where you drill a hole and pound 2 nails in the hole at the same time. Tapcons are used mostly now days.
Never heard it called 'pinch nailing' but I clearly remember when it was popular. I was bewildered from disbelief when I first saw Tapcons available! The concept of a fastener cutting threads in concrete? Astounding! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry It may be slang for the process in Florida. LOL..As you know Many terms are used in different areas of the country to define the same item or process. We call the rocks or bricks put under steel rebar to keep them from touching the ground ( hog apples). We call side cutter linesman ( Kleins ). We call the twist tool for doing steel ties a ( pigs tail) and the list goes on... lol
Gotta love territorial jargon from the building trades ball boy... 'hog apples' are new to me but 'pigs tail' is all to familiar and one I try to forget! Do you remember fuzz-board (Celotex sheathing) and how about 'beaver board' or 'wafer board' for OSB? A guy I worked with always made me laugh when he said he needed a driblitt for making holes... had to be there I guess? Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Yes, we do love making up great slang terms for our tools and materials in this profession. Lol
@Next Level Carpentry
Wonder if I could have some info on the 'Beaver Board".......just interested that's all.....no rush....I'm getting on a bit and my ' Hog Apples" are nearly touching the floor. :)
I know I'll probably wont do any of these things but it's always a pleasure to watch a pro kick ass doing a great job...
Wow , I never heard of this before ,I will be giving this a try
Today I have learned something thank you sir
You're welcome Carlos... I think you'll be surprised by how simple and useful this little trick is. Best, Matt
Great tip, thanks! I need to fasten PVC trim on the outside of concrete in some areas of my project. I'll be using cortex hidden fasteners w/plugs where the backing material is wood but was looking for a solution where I'll need to attach to concrete but would still like to be able to use the same fastener/plug, this idea will work perfectly!
Your's situation is one of the main reasons I did this video John... glad to know you realized it. Note: do a little experimenting with drillbit and wire size to find the right combination for maximum holding power vs snapping screws or stripping them adjusting either or both until you get it.... should work like a charm! BTW this is the method I use for attaching trim to interior brick and/or concrete walls because it's very adaptable for GRK torx drive trim screws too. Best, Matt
I for one appreciate every bit of the education that you provide here..I have learned a great deal..!! and anyone who doesn't and spews out negativity about this channel..they are not worth the time to even respond to...Thank you for posting all of your hard work and your wealth of knowledge and experience...
The bloody band-aid on his finger guarantees you this is an actual expert.
I wasn't aware that being an expert insured you never nicked your hands. Ever look at the hands of a live long tradesman? Real men.
@@exnjute I'm not being sarcastic. I'm a plumber with 31 years of experience. My hands are cut multiple times a week, my pants are dirty everyday. I am an expert.
Buy a new saw, it will find your hand, fact.
An expert doesn’t have time for bandaids. They use electrical tape! 🤣
@@exnjute another tool here
You always do such a decent job of representing meaningful content. AS ALWAYS job well done!!!
Yup, that's the way I've done it for decades. I keep some standard 14 gauge (from house wiring) in the tool box and have 3/16" and 1/4" Bosch Bluegranite concrete drill bits available to fit my #10 or #12 or even #14 screw shanks. I don't try to match the bit size to the shank size too carefully; when I insert the piece of wiring, it takes up the slack completely. Also the extra length of the Bosch drill bits allow me to drill right through the wood and then into the concrete with the same bit so that I don't need to remove and replace the wood again. If I don't even have wiring and screws in the toolbox, I'll just drill a hole and hammer in two nails or spikes at the same time, it holds. Nice work.
Nice tip! Things like this come in useful, especially on a Friday afternoon 😂
This is a great tip! I've used a lot of Tapcons and occasionally they don't hold. Using a wire of zip-tie might be a good alternative. I'll have to try that next time. Also, use a good hammer drill and good bit. The hammer drill I used initially in my basement remodel was old and the hammer action took too long causing the hole to be wider than necessary.
The wire and zip tie trick works equally well with tapcons and I use it anytime they strip out... thanks for watching and commenting! Best, Matt
This is a very old craftsman trick I saw my Dad do when I was a young boy, but I forgot about it until I watched your video. Thanks for reminding us all. Cheers from Canada.
Solid, sensible, and safe advice as always! Thank you!
What a brilliant hack, Matt! I will certainly be using this in future.
Many thanks for sharing! 👏🏻😀👏🏻
Thank you!! At my home, the screws were no longer holding the plywood against the cinder block (stripped). Based on this video, I removed the screws, inserted some scrap wire, and screwed back down. Now, it's tight and solid. Great video!!
Sounds like a perfect application where this little trick really works!
Thanks for letting me add other viewers know of your success...
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks Matt! Worked perfectly.
How good is trick with wire :) Thank master, I can not wait to get up to try it :) Thanks again, regards from Serbia!
I've done this for years. but I've found out thick weedwhacker string grabs much better.
Do you ever get the kind of pushback from using your method that this video gets in some of the comments? I didn't see that coming, that's for sure, and all for simple method for getting screws to grab in concrete... go figure, right? Thanks for adding your supportive comment here! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt, you know it works. I know it works. Not everyone has the assertiveness to think creatively and base success on results.
@@NextLevelCarpentry it's youtube, count the likes and don't read the comments 😂
@@mainpost4111 easier said than done but thanks a bunch for the advise... I really appreciate it, more than you know! Best, Matt
This is a great tip! Thank you. You saved me the Tapcon screw cost and another trip to the hardware store.
Very clever trick, thank you sir
I once used matchsticks, same effect just a different product.
If it works, it aint stupid.
I think you'll find the wire easier more predictable and a lot stronger than matchsticks but a guys got to do what he's got to do right? Best, Matt
NLC, Matt.... Love your videos, keep them coming and just ignore all the "keyboard cowboy, "experts"..... who Always give themselves away by first off... telling everyone that they are!!
By the way, I just came across your channel earlier this week and have watched several of your videos thus far... and I subscribed this evening, along with "ringing the bell" for video notifications.
As I noted in a reply way down below to another naysayer..... I reattached some 2x6" boards (8ft each) to the concrete block walls of my shop, with the exact same method as you demonstrated here, in this video...... more than 14 years ago, now!! I have everything from multiple 3/8ths chains (in 10 to 18ft lengths) to heavy three and four ft. long pipe wrenches, large wrenches (up to 3" - bolt head/nut size) and welding cables hanging off of these 2x6's, and they are just as tightly attached to the walls as the day I reattached them.
Also, the 2x6's are NOT pressure treated, and unlike your situation in the video.... the walls of my shop are, of course... "outside" walls, though I do use a water barrier treatment on them every couple of years (on the outside).... and the 2x6's have been there since the shop was originally built almost 34 years ago by the original builder/owner of my house and I've had it for nearly 17 years now.
I have also used this method of attachment in my basement for 2x4's for hanging stuff, and also for use as attachment for large sheets of "pegboard" and never have had any separation or loosening issues at all. In a few of them I have used the construction screw (with Torx head) and wire combo in conjunction with modern day construction adhesive... like "Liquid Nails" ("Extreme Duty" - just because I happened to have some at the time).
Keep up the good work and the videos coming.... God Bless you & yours.
PS; The home I was raised in was a three story, 21 room "victorian" that was built between 1746 & 1747 (in northern New England, now I live not too far from you, Matt... in WY.).... survived THREE moves during its life to its final and current location (in 1933), and is still lived in and in great shape.
Gee!!.... I wonder how all those fine ole houses have ever managed to survive all these years (and Centuries!!) WITHOUT the use of all these modern day technologies, gov't codes and inspectors (re: flunkies who can't get a "real" job in the "real world").
2Stroke, Thanks for spending all the time you did to add such a sensible comment to this controversial video... it brings perspective to it so others who might be inclined to a critical knee jerk reaction can better understand the benefits and shortcomings of the method. The applications and endurance you describe so completely mirror my experiences with the method very well.
What scares me is the perception that building inspectors carry divine wisdom and sensibility when it comes to judgement on whether a system, method or installation is 'right or wrong'. I've said before in these comments that inspectors don't have any skin in the game like I do as a contractor. Fixing problems resulting from pathetic installations that were inspected and passed without issue account for a great deal of the jobs I get paid handsomely to re-do. It gives me great appreciation for folks like you who aren't proclaiming 'I'm from the government... and I'm here to help'
I LOVE pizza, dust Chip, so I'd better get to brainstorming on how to draw square circles! LOL
It will be no surprise to you that I don't have the slightest problem with anyone who disagrees with something I show in a video, it's the ones who toss around uninformed insults, assumptions and generalizations that get me fired up enough to take the bait and jab back at 'em. I've been advised by UA-cam peers against responding to trolls but I'm still enough of a UA-cam novice that I just can't resist... someday I'll learn and do more banning and deleting 😒🙄😬😁😎
Best, Matt
Very helpful trick! Thank you! Only watched the video a month ago or so, thinking I might never use the technique. It worked yesterday on an installation where Tapcons would be too thick to be useful. Would not have tried it without your video, so thanks a lot! It worked well.
Thanks for the testimonial Lawton... especially in light of those who adamantly disparage the very thought of the method shown in the video... much appreciated! Best, Matt
A chiropractor will tell you that you need adjustments
A physio will recommend soft tissue work
A surgeon will tell you about what operation suits you best
Someone who sells fasteners for a living will always comment on this type of video
For sure, xxnon! Best, Matt
No, there will be people with different backgrounds, and they will share their point of view/knowledge. To me there is no value in this tip. Unless you are on a worksite, forgot plugs and need to finish job on same day, and next hardware store is miles away. Also, please bear in mind there may be people with zero experience watching that will fix something heavy using this technique. And nowadays, cost of 100 plugs is what, $5 maybe?
Having spent 16 years dealing with a life changing spinal injury, I strongly agree with what you wrote
@@lukenfoci I do believe this carpenter has more fun thinking about tricks like these than careful planning on the required equipment before starting the job. Sure planning isn't all that fun but if you wanna do a really good job of it you have your answer.
Just look at us. Everything is backwards, everything is upside down. Doctors destroy health, lawyers destroy justice, psychiatrists destroy minds, scientists destroy truth, major media destroys information, religions destroy spirituality and governments destroy freedom.
Michael Ellner
That is a great piece of know-how!
Most definitely... especially in the hands of those who understand the potential benefits and applications.
Thank you for this quality tip. For many years I have used a matchstick to gain 'traction' in a slightly oversized hole in timber - I think your coated wire method is much better and more suitable for other substrates. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
You got it! I'm sure you will be thoroughly convinced the first time you try wire instead of matchsticks...
I learned something new from you with the Wire! Thank you!
You're welcome! I guarantee you'll feel like a rock star the first time you get yourself out of a jam using the wire trick... especially if someone is watching you!
Wow, that's rich! Can you provide concerned viewers with the video where you show how to use glued toothpicks to repair stripped out screw holes in wood? Man, THAT's pure genius, dude!
Its not another way. I am a diy person and would never consider putting anything in the driled out holes other then the proper screws or bolts. If you are in a pinch and dont have the proper materials needed to do the job, go and get them. Even my 11 year old daughter watched part of this with me and she knew not to shove wire in a hole to fill the gap from a wrong size drill bit.
Wtong drill bit size or wrong screws, untreated lumber against concrete not to mention its holding a tub up.....if he is a lisenced contractor he should have it removed. If i were to see a contractor do that in my house they would be fired on the spot and kicked out.
91 supra,
Let me see if I get your point: YOU say "it's not another way" and reach that conclusion by confirmation from your 11 year old daughter... is that right?! Interesting...
That wire trick works on hollow metal when screws got stripped out.
Joe do you mean 'Hollow metal' like hollow metal door frames or metal studs... or both? Interesting. Best, Matt
Sexy
Old school verses new tech. I`ll take old school any day. Great to see someone still uses the tricks of the trade .
This is brilliant. Thank you for your time, sir. 👍
This looks like a good tip, having used matchsticks to fill stripped wood holes for years, but I fail to see the advantage over raw plugs if they are available?
Maybe it's because rawlplugs being plastic will deform under horizontal withdrawl force to get past irregularities in the wall whereas a metal wire with a plastic coating is more reinforced and thus less malleable? I've not used this technique but I've seen rawlpugs fail a few times (and they weren't all ones I placed!)
Brilliant. A no-nonsense solution to an everyday problem. Huge Thumbs Up.
Thanks for your affirmation PM... much appreciated! Best, Matt
OMG That’s Genius I really loved how that was done, great tip for the future , thank you 🙏
Love the UA-cam commenters saying "that isn't strong enough", then the guy stands on it and even bounces a little with no problem
Thanks for adding that sensible observation Chris. It seems some viewers can't see the practical reality of this method's effectiveness from the lofty saddle on their high horse... never ceases to amaze me! Best, Matt
The only thing I am worried about is cold floating of the plastic in the cable. Will it hold in the long run?
As a union carpenter, I can appreciate this "hack". On a daily basis, we anchor wood to concrete for formwork, where strength is paramount.....literally hundreds of times a day with a 3/16" bit, a 16d nail, and a piece of tie-wire. Cheap, fast, and holds like you can't believe.