How to Insulate a Basement | This Old House
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows how to warm up a chilly concrete wall. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Tom helped a homeowner prepare the bare concrete walls in his basement for wallboard. The homeowner wanted to convert his unfinished basement into living space. The first step was to plug the holes in the concrete walls that might let water seep in from outside. To do this, Tom mixed up some hydraulic cement and forced it into the holes. Hydraulic cement expands as it cures, forming a watertight seal. Next, Tom used 2-inch thick foam insulating board to insulate the basement. He applied it to the concrete walls using a special foamboard adhesive. With the foam insulation installed, Tom fastened a wooden "grid" of 1x3 spruce boards over the insulation using masonry "spring spikes." This grid allows wallboard to be fastened with regular drywall screws, and gives an electrician a place to snake wires and install electric boxes for outlets and light switches.
Shopping List for How to Insulate a Basement:
- plant mister [amzn.to/2JwKR7N], used to spray water onto the tie-rod [amzn.to/2PZnS6z] holes
- hydraulic cement [amzn.to/2JxCpW2], for plugging tie-rod holes in concrete wall
- 2-inch-thick rigid polystyrene [amzn.to/2H830pu], used to insulate wall
- foam board adhesive [amzn.to/2JwH8an], for adhering foam board to concrete wall
- 1x3 spruce [amzn.to/2JCmvK1], used to secure foam board and create nailing surfaces for drywall
- 4-inch-long spring spike [amzn.to/2VeU9HN], secures wood boards to insulated wall
- 1 5/8-inch drywall screws [amzn.to/2Ykn9ji], used to fasten vertical 1x3s
Tools for How to Insulate a Basement:
- masonry hammer [amzn.to/2WArsqf] and center punch [amzn.to/2PY3YIU], used to drive tie rods [amzn.to/2PZnS6z] into concrete wall
- margin trowel [amzn.to/2J6KCAU], for applying hydraulic cement [amzn.to/2JxCpW2]
- caulking gun [amzn.to/2Wxkna1], used to apply foam board adhesive [amzn.to/2JwH8an]
- chalk reel [amzn.to/2WzXyT5], used to snap horizontal lines
- hammer drill [amzn.to/30bKaXc] and 3/16-inch masonry bit [amzn.to/2JeeZ8H], used to drill holes in concrete walls
- drill/driver [amzn.to/302tbH0], for fastening vertical 1x3s to horizontal 1x3s [amzn.to/2JCmvK1]
Tom used Quikrete [www.quikrete.com/] hydraulic cement to plug the holes in the concrete foundation
Tom used two-inch thick rigid foam insulation on the walls manufactured by Owens Corning Insulation [www.owenscorning.com/en-us]
Tom used masonry "spring spikes" to attach the 1x3 lumber to the concrete wall manufactured by DeWalt [anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/].
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How to Insulate a Basement | This Old House
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I have been a huge fan of Tom Silva for over 15 years. His knowledge base of all things related to home construction is astounding. I worship the man. This basement project, however, puzzles me. Unless the homeowner specifically requested this wall construction method, I believe this is not the ideal way to finish a basement.
As a DIYer, I finished my basement a few years back. I also used tongue-and-groove rigid foam insulation (layered with rockwool to increase R-values). There is a clear tape that is specifically made to seal the vertical joints and any seams between adjacent foam panels. This was not used in the video. My understanding is that the air in the room should be completely isolated from the comparatively colder surface of the cement foundation to prevent condensation/mold issues. Drilling all of those holes for the 1x3s through the foam board, and cutting out the foam to accommodate switch and outlet boxes don't help matters. The top and bottom of each panel should also have been sealed with caulking.
Also, Tom opted to install 1x3s vertically to allow for electrical wiring. Building codes in most jurisdictions require at least 1.25" wiring clearance from the stud edge to prevent perforation by drywall screws or nails. The method Tom employed (using 1x3s) likely results in clearances of only 0.75" since the ROMEX isn't going to lie completely flat against the foam panels. I believe this would fail an electrical inspection.
Anyway, I used 2x4 framing to finish my basement for many reasons - It isn't that much more work vs using 1x3s, the cavities between studs can accommodate much thicker insulation (my walls have overkill R-30 values), HVAC/plumbing can be better concealed, and the framing can support heavy shelving, if needed. The only negative if I were to do this today is the ridiculous cost of lumber.
MVC!
I have finished alot of basements and we always use 2x4 framing spaced 1/2'' - 1"' from the wall to create an air barrier. Foundation walls are rarely true enough to do it like in this video, I couldn't imagine doing it like in this video..
Hi, Thanks for sharing. I want to finish my basement too.. How do i screw the horizontal frame to the basement floor? Is its concrete what type of screws and equipment should i use to screw the frame to the basement floor? Could you please let me know?
@@nathayes123 : thank you so much for your reply. I really appreciate it.
Nat is 100% correct. My only defense for bob is that the home must be in a VERY dry environment.
He made measuring and fitting the cutout for that foam board look so simple, guy is legendary
Run the adhesive vertical so that if water were to get in, it could trickle down. Applying the adhesive horizontal will allow the water to accumulate and mold.
If you got water coming into your basement thur the concrete walls . It doesn't matter which way the adhesive is running because that the least of your problems. Greetings from Cincy Ohio U.S.A.!
True both points. If a leak is possible it would be best to run down.. but any leak is terrible. Concrete always seems to crack no matter what eventually. From my experiance in a prefab trench factory, so if it was me. I'd rather run every bead of adhesive vertically hoping for the least amount of damage in the long run.. but who builds houses for the long run anymore??
Good idea.
You should be doing your own show
@@backtothebasics6595 I don't understand what you mean by vertical
Tom is a wealth of knowledge. He takes carpentry to another level. Sure there are different methodologies in finishing a basement, most of which are dictated by cost.
Yeah, I think I'll use 2x4s to construct my basement walls. Seems easier, plus I won't need to create a multitude of holes in my foundation walls as I wood anchoring 1x3 lattice to them.
Maybe use impregnated wood on the floor slab to stop it rotting out in case of damp?
Me too. I can frame walls way faster than I can drill a billion holes in my concrete walls
I do hate losing 7 inches of floor space but it’s worth it to me
Tommy is the greatest person for showing how to do it .👏🇺🇸🏡
Could watch tom work all day!
That guy looked legit stoked at the end of the video. I’d be too if Tommy helped me frame my basement and all I had to do was drywall.
I love Tom's explanations. I can just hear him giving advice to his kids. Junior, you want the gray car. The red one will attract too much attention from the police when you are speeding. Speaking of speeding, let's get a move on applying that cement.
lol that last part lol lol.
⁰⁴
Sment
Actually, you want the red car. The gray car blends in more easily with the road, so when that 80 year old is looking both ways before pulling out on to the highway, they'll be less likely to see you coming and pull out right in front of you.
Junior buy a red car girl wakes up on it to fall for it ....jump up to you right on the go
After watching this video, I now understand the explanations about retrofitting the house for earthquakes.
Big respect for Tom Silva. That said, 2x2 steel studs avoid so much of this hassle.
Amazing! This guy really knows his stuff!!
Driving the ties thru the waterproofing/damp proofing will mean water will definitely be coming in now.
I’m surprised at this approach to finishing a basement. Water will always be trapped if front of the foundation ties, sooner rather than later it will fail and water will find its way back in. Tom said it in the beginning that it should have been sealed from the exterior. And some one else made the comment of using 2 x 4 framing which I also agree to instead of drilling into the concrete wall possibly creating more susceptible voids for water penetration.
Every single 1x3 board I have used has been anything but straight. I can only imagine how wavy the dry wall will look.. why not just build a 2×2 or 2×4 framed wall and anchor it at the bottom and at the top? Drilling holes into the concrete block is just asking for water to find its way in...
This is how I finished my basement. This method worked great.
**Very important for anyone using this method to insulate their basement walls. If you do not completely seal the top of the foam board to the concrete wall (use can spray foam), there is a very good chance you will get moisture that rises up and seeps out at the top of the foam board, even if you have dry walls. Batt insulation in your ceiling will allow this moisture to pass through then the moisture will get trapped between the subfloor/rim joist and the insulation. Rot will begin and you'll never know it until it's too late. Don't ask me how I know.
@@DaniellaTousson I'm not familiar with that product but don't think it could hurt anything. I'd still make sure the top of the foam board is completely sealed to the wall.
@@DaniellaTousson, I'm a capable DIYer, not a pro, so take this with a grain of salt. Bats in the rim joist void was the recommended best practice years ago. Now folks have realized it causes mold.
I've been watching a bunch of YT vids ahead of finishing my basement. Modern guidance I have seen is from Concord Carpenter, and a couple other channels is: Remove the bat insulation in the rim joist and upgrade to rigid foam there as well. (you could also pay a pro for spray foam, but that is not DIY friendly)
The air permeability through bats allows humidity to move towards the cold inside face of your external sheathing. In cold months, the moisture condenses, and you get mold.
The new rigid foam should be equal or greater R-value to what you have in the walls above. Use multiple layers if needed to get enough R-value. An important note: cut the rigid foam 1/4 to 1/2 inch smaller than the void in the rim joist you are filling. That extra space gives you room to use canned spray foam and make an airtight seal between the foam and the joists.
No interior air touching the cold external sheathing should mean no humidity condensing and no mold.
@@22kmclaren That’ll work fine! Alternatively, you could order a frothpak of spray foam and not have to cut the rigid into the bays, but you’ve got the principles down.
@@melvin_0bviously, I did not know about that product. Thanks for sharing! For cost savings, I will probably stick to cutting rigid foam in easy to access bays. But I will definitely pick up some frothpak for the tight spaces!
I highly recommend spray foaming. I did this when I finished my basement. Cost was about 2x over foam board but honestly it's a drop in the bucket when you look at the overall cost of finishing a basement. The contractor was done in half a day. It would have taken me several weekends of work if I went the foam board route. Get several quotes as I found they vary quite a bit.
I like the foam insulation but would rather frame out with 2x4s. Drilling into the concrete wall seems to be counterproductive to the water proofing done earlier with cement.
That's what I was thinking. All that work when 2x4 wall easier/faster.
I was going to ask about that.
Your typical basement wall is 8" thick. The only way to install and secure the wood frame wether it be 1x3 or 2x4 is drilling into the concrete wall and either nailing it like he did, or using tapcons. With the basement wall being 8" thick, them drilling into it 4-5" deep won't effect anything to do with water coming in.
Also, wether or not you use 1x3 or 2x4, the only difference at this point is how much space your using and cost of wood. All the wood frame is doing is holding up the drywall, it's not for anything structural so there doesn't need to be anything more than enough to hold the ¹/2" drywall up.
@@justinvanamberg7206 Or you could glue the 2x4 wall to floor and nail the top to joists.
The joints in the foam bars should be sealed and I would frame a wall in front of it for 2 reasons. #1 it’s faster and easier. # 2 your following the foundation wall. If the wall is in and out and not perfectly straight you will see it in the drywall and ceiling later. By framing an independent wall, it will keep it straight.
I wish I had Tom at my house. If only for the motivation. 😂 This guy should be in the Man hall of fame.
this was made YEARS ago but its helping me SO much now! Thank you so much for this
6:15..so satisfying to watch
2023 And this video is still great. Good job.
Best contractor and the best show.
I feel like Tom and Grady built a pretty good bromance in this episode.
2:55
@@dantheman20127667 LOL!!!
@@dantheman20127667 lmfao
People who hate styrofoam noise will find this episode to be the best one ever made
For insulation I started with rockwool r23 in rim joists with fire block foam n sealed gaps.
man, this guy is so good
Love that foam for basements, but I like to use Delta wall or other types of dimpled water barriers behind it and run it to the floors, even under the walls in dry or wet basements. Having an air gap is extremely important on both sides, especially where basement walls contact the earth.
Jeff from Home renovision DIY has a great solution for this. He mounds the adhesive on the back and gently pushes the foam board against the wall to leave the air gap behind it. That’s what I plan on doing with my basement.
@@cjwise7741 I think if you run vertical beads behind the foam and just push the foam up normally there will be enough of a gap (even if it's very small) to let any extra moisture down. As for delta, if it's a newer house it's going to have the dimpled delta on the exterior of the foundation.
Good video. Learned a few things!
That guy’s my hero !
You make it look so easy when they do this that's from years and years of doing it I get some good tips
"I sawr some rust mahks..." Wicked hillahrious!
New homes are so easy to work on . Try this on a hundred year old concrete in a hundred year old home here in Chicago . Not so easy .
Ok Debbie Downer.
My dad's cousin had basement was from the 1920s. In 1985 they basically put a new basement under the house. Although in 2020 that may cost way too much! They made the basement taller (deeper) and it looks really nice. They did most of the work themselves.
I have cinder block basement so I dry locked the wall and put a French drain with drainage mat a few feet up the wall then studded about 3/4 inch from the wall clearing the mat. Used a tank of great stuff to fill the gap and covering the blocks and filled the stud with fiberglass in the bathroom. I’m going to do the rest of the basement with foam board to save money. I’d also tape the joints of the board for extra security. I used the closed cell foam to make sure moisture doesn’t get through so I don’t have to tear out the shower. The rest of the basement won’t cost as much if I have to tear it back down.
Love this! I need to do this to my basement.
5:37 This sound should be used for crowd control
what is "crowd control"?
@@GreenPlanet669 controlling crowds
I wish Tom was my next door neighbor.
Simple and effective, thanks!
You make it look so easy using tricks of the trade
I remember waking up early when I was a little kid to watch this show
Motor rider me too- but more Norm Abram than Tom
I just did a 2,800 sq ft basement with 2in Kingspan panels tight to the block with the seams taped. A 2x4 wall around the entire perimeter pressing the panels in place. All rim joist ends blocked with the same panels cut to fit between floor joists and then sealed with spray foam. The basement, a full bath, tv room, bar, and two bedrooms are a constant temp and very comfortable. The area heats or cools with nearly no effort. Take the time and do it right if you are going to make the investment at all.
You used 2×4 studs to press the foam panels against the basement wall? Many basement walls bow and are not even. So how did your panels line up butted against each other at the seams?
@@falsealarmno panels were glued to the wall as well. New construction. No bows. If there is a bow you just add a shim where the gap behind the stud is. No issue. If the wall is severely bowed that is more of an issue for repair then adding insulation.
I am doing a similar project on my basement, however here in Greece they do not have these special adhesives, just using a low acid silicone adhesive to the concrete. I also use a serrated knife to do my cutting and to make it easier I spray the knife with a dry silicone spray. To do the drywall I just frame out with steel studs and then hang the drywall. Only problem here is that they do not have "new construction" outlet boxes to pre hang for electric. They only have boxes similar to our old construction work electrical boxes. It is a pain in the a-- to run the smurf conduit into the box since there is no clearance in the hole one places in The drywall to mount the box.
I will use this insulation first and then will frame with 2 x 4 .
Tom as a union carpenter the process we used to do this very same job was to use a product called Z furring. Our supplier sold a product made by Clark Dietrich (many others as well) this galvanized steel stud system is installed vertically 24"OC using a powder actuated pin gun to mechanically fasten to block or poured foundations. Foam insulation is glued and held in place by the Z furring channel. difference
I investigated galvanized Z-channel, but realized it would be a huge thermal bridge from the cold concrete wall. Several articles I read confirmed this was no longer allowed where you had to meet any insulation standard.
When i finished our basement., I added a cork into each hle , then used the hydraulic cement.
Did you put sealant on the cork?there is specialty foam rod for that use.it works great.I use it around window installs and then follow that with sealant or expanding foam
Im a huge fan!! love you guys!! thank you so munch for the truth on how to fix this old house🏡😃
very smart guy thanks for the videos
So, if there was condensation under the plastic, then what? Just apply a sealer?
No way I’d drill all those holes into the foundation walls! Put the foam up and then just build a normal 2x4 wall anchoring the base plate to the slab and the sill plate to the floor joists. Hell now you can even pack in insulation into the 2x4 stud void to build it up even more since ICF homes have 2-3” of foam on the inside and the outside of the basement walls.
I agree. That's what I did in my home in NY
Would you need a vapor barrier to finish the install? Such as 6mil plastic acustically sealed before drywall goes up?
Ephraim Quinones with EPS foam and taped seams you don’t technically have to. Vapor barrier depends where you live and how you place it.
I'm upstate NY so winter's are long. I'm pretty sure my partially finished basement walls only have been studded with unfaced fiberglass and finished drywall.
Ephraim Quinones I see so many different thoughts and builders and code saying how it should be done and again all are different. To me, if you have something up already, remove the dry way and see if it’s wet/dry or mold. If no mold and dry then I’d stick with what works. If no barrier like you say then 2” foam against the block should be fine.
That pink foam is a vapor barrier. Usually a tape on the seams is added but in this case they did not seal these seams between each piece nor did they do so at the top. I think this is because as they mentioned in the first part of the video, the basement is externally sealed.
Very nice Tom as usual
Tom, a question. Instead of affixing the cross pieces with wall "nails", why not build 2 x 4 (or 2X2) walls and stand them up against the insulation securing them to the joists and maybe a few anchors into the concrete floor? This way, you avoid putting holes into the walls - a thing that makes me fear creating water leaks. Pressure treated bottom plate, of course.
That's how I did a room in my basement. I used thinner insulation, covered the concrete (didn't need the to fill in the holes as mine was sealed from the outside wall), then I just built 2x4 walls and pushed them against the concrete or ceiling beam. I did not drill into the ceiling beam. I just attached the walls to the floor (pressure treated bottom as you said) with the double nail method and attached the walls to the joists and to each other.
@@trumpisaconfirmedcuck5840 A concrete or stone foundation radiates the cold so choosing a thicker insulation and sealing any cracks minimizes the cold transfer and reduces heating bills .
That’s how I did it. Worked well and allows truing the walls
@Trace M buy once cry once my friend with 1x2 u will never get outlets in there if u want to run outlets lights etc’ sometimes paying more makes it easier so it’s done right and u don’t have to re do it’ very min I would use 2x3 for walls and get shallow mount electrical box for outlets etc
If u want no electrical sure wth toss some 1x2 furring strips on there and screw drywall to it
I however fear the 1x2 may split easily when nailing/ screwing into concrete
@Trace M I’m aware in the video what they r doing Jonathan asked why not build a wall that’s why I made that comment
So I did this for my basement. Burned out 2 hammer drills (Ryobi) and needed 4 drill bits for the spring spikes. In the end, to install the outlets, you have to cut out all the way to the concrete. So there really is no vapor barrier possible. And those could be entry points for cold air or moisture depending on where you live. Also, the lattice work is not practical for an outside corner. You will end up with two pieces of drywall touching but with no supporting post behind them. Wiring did work well but does require more pitting of the insulation.
Those Ryobi's will do it every time! I try to tell people, lol.
Should of use short boxes
you are very great .
every time I learned a lot from .
thank you very much
2:55
- "Starting to get a little stiff Tom but I can see how you can work it right in there."
- "yup get it in there. Now mist those holes for me. Oh yeah."
- Tom's wife listening through the floorboards: 0_0
I can't believe how far down the comments I had to go before finding one that references this! 🤣🤣🤣
There’s one out there… You missed it
Some good practices here with the foam insulation and the furring strips installed on the wall. But, you should never drill through your insulation you just installed for the furring strips. Better yet would have been to install a stud wall to attach the drywall. The problem is concrete basement walls are always wet. Some times of the year, wetter than others. Proof of this was in the tracking of the rust from the anchors in the wall. The anchors now embedded in the concrete will become conduits for the moisture in both directions.
The best solution is the dig up the outer wall. Waterproof the concrete and then insulate from the outside to keep the concrete conditioned. This however was probably not financially practical in this case.
You are absolutely correct. The guy in this video seems like an amateur who doesn't understand moisture in buildings to me.
So let me get this straight first you need to wet the cement then lubricate the hole with a mist and finally just push it in the hole. Most excellent video.
nice trick with plastic sample area if you get moisture in it you know you may have a problem. If not probably good to go without sealing. This is sort of what i need in this basement i am at.
there are few basements in Fla, USA... but the idea is valid for a cement wall layout....
1:45 Sment.
It must've taken them a good 2 hours to drill all those holes. The magic of editing.
Great stuffff again,,, TOMMY!!!
Tom is hands down the best carpenter in America today....he taught Norm everything he knows! Axt him
Thats great advice! Rigid insulation is the only way to go for basement applications. Batt insulation is a no no. It acts like a sponge and holds water and moisture where rigid repels water and moisture.
Closed cell spray foam...
@@jerrysmith7166 That stuff is awesome but not really DIY friendly. Would be a lot more $$$$ to pay a guy to do it than use that pink styarafoam like in the video.
@@jerrysmith7166 even the guys you pay do it wrong all the time. Stuff is deadly if done in thick layers (done quick n lazy)
Scott H ...I’ve been spraying it for 16yrs now I personally haven’t had any issues but live heard of very few horror stories
Aaron Bays you can buy froth kits relatively cheap and they pretty easy to use.
So they covered the leaking holes but later drilled more holes?
They didnt drill through the walL
Man i was so nervous seeing that guy hitting that with that Mason hammer 🤣🤣🤣
I finishing our dry basement. framing 2x4 walls, using elevator bolts to elevate the sill 2 inches of the floor to protect from an possible water infiltration. Using a tall baseboard over floating floor tile to fill gap. Basements need to finished with plans that you will have water intrusion. Unless you dont mind throwing money away.
I did my basement(1,500 sg ft) similar to this 5 years ago but I went even further.
I did the outside walls with the same pink foam boards but used 4x8 panels instead of 2x8....cheaper that way.
Then I used 1" foam(4x8) glued to the concrete floor.
Then I taped every seam... walls , floor and floor to wall with Tyvek tape. This creates a thermal envelope.
Then I shot down 3/4 T&G subflooring(4x8) through the foam into the concrete floor.
Then I framed standard 2x4 walls inside the foam giving me normal walls to run plumbing and electrical. You only lose 2" in the room doing this but it naturally is more costly, more lumber cost. But it eliminates the need to drill a hundred holes into the foundation walls.
Then I ran my plumbing and electrical.
Then I installed conventional 3.5" fiberglass insulation between the studs.
Rock, mud, prime paint.
Although I put in heat/ac runs, I probably could have done without it. Basement is nice and warm in winter and rarely need A/C even in 100 degree heat in summer. I think insulating the floor did the trick.
Hmmm you have me thinking maybe I'll insulate my floor with 1" 4x8 also. I'm getting 66° passive temps without even installing the roxul r15 between studs (I live in NYC) This winter has been warm since installing 1" Pink Foam all around the walls. But this also includes finding and sealing every gap mainly where the concrete and siding meet.
Push it in the hole
Force it in
That always works.
Stops the leaks
I just loved ur videos sir
Tommy always makes it look so easy.
The top of the foundation should also be covered in foamboard.
"its starting to get stiff Tom but I can see how you can get it in there... " lmao
Someone beat me too it hahah
Classic
great video many thanks.
Sometimes I think a pastry bag would be helpful in some diy applications.
Isn't Formular 250 recommended for the basement wall EXTERIOR and 150 for the interior? Your furring system seems much more complicated than using 2x4 studwalls
when you pounded the rebar in you just made the leak worse you fix leaks from the outside or with landscaping
I worked at a 300 unit apartment and we use to get a lot of rod hole leaks. Best and cheapest way to plug them, silicone caulk with a cork.
at least use urethane calk, not silicone
5:11 “we’ll just cut it out with a hand saw” 😂😂that saw is huge!
Supposed to apply the adhesive vertically, not horizontally
it doesnt matter
Old tool guy law:
Never hold the chisel/punch the way he did in the video.
Wrap your thumb around the tool same direction as your fingers.
That way ... WHEN (Not 'If') you miss and smack your thumb, you don't break it.
If your thumb wraps the way we normally grasp a tool (we have 'opposable thumbs' for a reason, right?) and then grasp really tightly, one miss with the hammer results in a broken thumb.
I was thinking that looked super sketchy.
Great job.thank u
Great video. I would like to know if you have a video showing how to install a wall mount utility tub on this wall?. Thanks
I have yet to find a video that deals with getting rid of the concrete bumps in the walls covering the rebar ends. Was this concrete slapped on to seal potential water leaks? Or is it somehow concrete that stuck to the rebar when the forms were pulled away? Can I chip it off? Should I chip it off? Should I just put enough pressure on the foamboard to give where the bumps are, conform to the bumpy wall? Should I quit and just build a tiki hut?
What did you end up doing?
Been a lot easier just to stud up a 2x4 wall along the foam and done. No concrete screws/nails and done in 1/4 of time.
this old house one of the best tv. shows ever.
rockstar instruction Tom
I actually used this method and was sorry I did. 1) those bent bolts were near impossible to find. 2) drilling holes into the (35 year old) concrete walls ate up tons of drill bits. 3) One wall was slightly bowed so that putting drywall over it was problematic. 4) etc. Had I known all the issues, I would have used a completely different method.
did you use masonry bits? i have to drill concrete a lot at work and one bit will last months of hard use into concrete that is at times over one hundred years old.
Gene Lamb That's the thing. They were not bolts. Spring Spike Nail.
@@leeknivek and did he use a hammer drill? Regular drills aren't for concrete.
@@digitalconsciousness Thanks to everyone for their comments but drilling the holes was only one of many issues with this wall structure. In retrospect I would have used normal framing with steel. Would have saved additional fireproofing, allowed for easier outlet and wiring installation and made it easier to put on baseboard.
How far apart are the spring spikes?
Been an insulator in New Hampshire / Massachusetts for years, I have never seen this system. Usually standard framing with closed cell spray foam.
Terry Dolphin depends on what energy code provisions are for the space. Up in New Hampshire where you get cold cold ground, spray foam maybe the more cost effective method due to the amount of R value needed. Further south in warmer climates where the frost line is only a few inches, foam board maybe the more economical option.
Tom is a freakin' magician. I bow to his skills.
Hi, I like this way of framing over the foam board. However, I am concerned that if the concrete wall is not perfectly leveled and bump free under the foam, the foam boards and the wood frame will be warped too. Then, the drywall boards could be warped too. Any feedback based on experience with this technique regarding risk of drywall warping would be greatly appreciated.
Then you would put a level on the wall and shim the 1x3's so they're all even and it'll not be wavy.
So much work to get 1x4's in there. Just frame it with 2x4.
How to attach the 2x4 against the foam board?
I used the 2x4 method in my basement. Put a treated 2x4 down as the bottom plate. Put concrete anchors every 4’ to hold it in position on the floor. Put a single regular 2x4 as the top plate. Nail it to bottom of floor joists. If wall is running parallel to floor joists, every 4‘ place a 2x4 block perpendicular to floor joists. Since surface of concrete floor may not be perfectly parallel to the bottom of the floor joists, you will want to measure and cut each stud.
1” lumber is so much more expensive than 2”, so cost of using 2” lumber will be about the same. Using 2x4s will not require cutting cavities for electrical boxes. Since 2” of XPS is R10, cutting cavities will reduce the R value at each box. Plus, the nails used in this video will act as thermal wick. The steel nails
The steel nails will wick heat directly into tons of cold concrete.
The portion of the wall which is above grade to at least 2’-4’ below grade, I added fiberglass batts between the studs. This is the portion of the wall subject to the greatest temperature extremes, so why not add extra insulation in this zone?
Frame 2x4 walls 4 inches off the foundation with a treated plate and spray foam insulation way less time consuming
I would never do it this way! Drilling into the concrete just allows for hundreds of points for water to get in. Plus by using this 1x3 you now have to dig into/ cut out the foam board for every light switch and outlet, adding hours of tedius work?
Tyvec paper on foundation wall,, then use 2x4, one inch and a half from wall, top plates screwed to joists, pressure treated on bottom, and regular roll insulation. Cover with 6mil plastic. Cheaper, no holes in wall. Much more effective at moisture control, and professional.
How'd you hang your Tyvec? You'd have to mount a strip and drill in to the wall just to hang that.
If u cut out some of foam from the foam sheeting on the wall for the electrical box will it not reduce its effectiveness at that spot where the electrical connections are?
such a slight effect you would never notice
I'm assuming that sort of wood layout removes the need for a firebreak?
Hi from 2019!
Fire breaks are need for balloon framing. There is only 8’ of vertical cavity so there would be no chimney effect requiring a fire break.
Good job
This is the first time I felt compelled to comment on This Old House.
Folks, do not close up your basement like this! I redo -do basements that were done similarly.
In time, that wall will leak. It must be waterproofed, and each one of those penatraions is a future possible leak.
But what do you do if your ceiling is stucco and you don't have a floor joist to do a 2x4 framing? I ask cause I am trying to frame one side of my garage block wall for tool storage and a French cleat system.
Do you disagree with drilling the holes only or the entire process including gluing the foam boards?