This is a quick look at the construction of my No Fence Miter Station. If you'd like detailed plans and a full set of videos, head over to the Guild. thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/miter-station/
Great tool which will not disappoint. A little on the pricey side but the convenience factor is really nice.Update: 11/3/18 - Still works great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe and not disappointed at with the purchase. Wish I could have bought this at the lower price but ah well. This miter saw is truly awesome after two years of use. Makes cutting quick without messing around. I leant this tool to a friend for trim work at his home. He returned after using my saw and bought one for himself. I guess his demo with my saw was the deciding factor
17 years ago I built the Norm Abrams version for my miter station. At the time everything made great sense. Now you show me much better ways to do the top and storage. There is no way I am going to completely rebuild my miter station but I certainly am going to retrofit the top and (no)fence parts. Thank you for some great ideas. You and Norm are my hero's.
The #1 project that I want to build in my shop is a mitre station. There are a number of good designs out in YT-land, but I was stuck because my biggest question was "Fence, or no fence?" Thank you for your pov and reasoning on this. I have settled on "no fence". I also agree with your 8' and 4' sides. Thank you for the video!
I have used this system for years and it hasn't failed me yet. Just plain common sense and saves a lot of the green stuff. Just wished the t-track weren't so darned expensive. My stop block was a scrap piece of Jatoba. Was going to use the Purple Heart but not my favorite wood.
Thank you for pushing the non-full fence miter station. I've been trying to explain to people, you don't need a long fence, and it's actually detrimental if your workpiece isn't dead straight. Great job on the build as always.
Awesome build sir. I built my shop cabinets/miter station extremely similar to yours and I love it. Fenceless all the way. Do you find yourself using the measurement on the Incra T-track often? Or do you mark the boards you are cutting after measuring separately? Trying to decide if integrating a measurement tape into my work surface is worth it.
I hope one day I'm as proficient a woodworker as Mark. I don't know if it's decades of mistakes but he always seems to think of everything prior to a build. Always good being able to consult his videos before I go muck something up (making a bench top for some existing cabinet frames and the tip about making the saw height adjustable is 💥). Thanks for all the (free) content Mark. I hope to join the guild someday. Shout out as well to Matt and Shannon as well for the Wood Talk podcast. I went for the knowledge, but stayed for the comedy.
1:26 When you have a T-track you basicly also have the oppetunety to add a piece of fence wherever it is convienient depending on the lenght of the piece you wish to cut. Half a meter of fence that you can slide along the T-track and push all out of the way when not in use, could be handy 😊
Great build bud! I think you're the first woodworker on UA-cam that I've seen actually use a respirator the whole time when cutting and finishing things. Thank you! I haven't seen anyone else do this, and most don't even use them when using finishes. I am very appreciative for you modeling good respiratory safety around dust and vapors. It's so important to lung health to protect them. Everyone else is just modeling how to fuck them up to everyone who doesn't know any better. So thank you again for that!!!
Mark this video was right on time.. was getting ready to purchase aluminum fences and expensive stops.. I love the fencers approach.. never looked at it that way.. thanks again 👍😊❤️
I've been shuffling my chop saw around the shop for a decade while trying to figure out a station configuration that would work in my shop. Finally! Your fence-less system will definitely work for my shop! I have 1,000 square feet but never enough horizontal surface to make everything work.
I'm planning on making myself a set of drawers that will sit on top of my cabinets to act as extension beds for my miter saw. Glad I watched this...really don't need the fence, and this made me realize it.
Fantastic project Marc. I’ve always wondered why some miter stations have such long fences and why they are necessary. In one quick statement you answered by demonstrating what happens when a piece of lumber is not perfectly square. Since I use my miter saw mostly for breaking down long boards that makes a lot of sense. As you said, the accuracy of the cut is at the blade not the end of a long fence. I also like your cabinet design. Easy and fairly quick. Thanks for the inspiration.
A perfectly square station with long fences can enable you to easily cut long sections of wood and to a very precise measurements that are also square.
bighand69 that was my point. I don’t use my miter saw for precision cutting and if, as Marc suggested, the long board isn’t perfectly straight then the cut at the saw will not be 90 degrees. My miter saw is mainly for cutting long boards to approximate lengths. The only precision cuts at the miter saw is on shorter lengths and I prefer to use my table saw if accuracy is extremely important.
Thanks for posting Marc. I bought he guild plans and made the miter station. The plans and videos were excellent and I encourage everyone wanting to build something like this to go to the Guild and purchase them. I have not put the T-tracks in yet but I am thinking one will do.. Do you have any hindsight on having two tracks Marc?
A great instructor and the Woodwhisperer resources Marc has produced are simply enjoyable to follow. Highly recommend. I'm very happy with my end result and it gets used everyday!
That really is a great set up. I couldn’t agree more about not having a fence. I built a mobile miter stand using plans from Brad (FTBT) and I didn’t get precise with the fence and it’s off just a touch. It was one of my first projects so I didn’t think about the precision of the fence. So I focus on the fence on the saw. Maybe I’ll remove the fence and look into installing a track for a stop and tape measure. Anyway...you do really good work.
Robin Lewis posted a video not long ago about a miter saw station that he built without fences. The difference between his and yours is that his T-track is not recessed for the reason you mentioned that some people may want to consider an extended fence; to keep him from using it as a storage bench. Even though I would probably be inclined to do the same, the recessed T-track does look a lot nicer. you did a great job with that as usual.
I am not a fan of having a fence either and you nailed it with your explanation. I LOVE IT !!!! I guess I need to get your plans because there isn't much I will change about your design . Nicely Done
I put a t-track, and made a fence from 20x60 V-slot that I am able to mount, and slide into the t-track. Extrusions make life sooo much easier. (Especially when you only have use of 1 arm/leg, like myself.)
Just the other day I moved my mitre saw forward about 15mm. I still have the fence as it’s attached to a cabinet but now the timber does not utilise the fence although I am still able to use the stop block.
Hi Mark, I am in the middle of building my mobile miter saw cart with extension wings and I was debating between fence or no fence and t-track in the extension wings. Your reasoning for having the t-track in the extension wings made me go with no fence system. I was wondering about the functionality of the second t track in your extension wings? What do you need that for?
I kinda wish I saw this before starting my miter station build. I'm midway through a Jay Bates inspired setup. I felt that was good for the miter saw hood and dust collection. I just got a new miter saw that's larger do I need to do a little modification. I guess I'll continue and see how it all works. Then I think I can re do a few things and turn it into something like this if I want to later. Thanks for the ideas, Marc.
Jay has a video about the fence to discuss the pros cons since this no fence wave has hit So I'd say look it up. As long as you're aware of which fence your work is referencing, I'd say you're good.
@@MrCinnamonboy yea, I've seen his videos. Marc's setup is nice and clean, but Jay's is too, just different styles. Jay mentioned his saw is a bit forward of the fence to account for and curvature.
Great project because of its practicality. Need a stop, not a fence. Saves space! However, I've started building a platform for the toe kick and do my leveling with it. Then just drop the base cabinets on it.
Good job Marc. None of this was overkilled. I love seeing you use common brands like DeWalt and Milwaukee. It shows people that the skill is in the use and not the tools. The higher end stuff definitely has its place. But you did a great job with this. And 100% about the whole thing of sometimes it's better to buy something than to make it when time. is money. Use leftovers from jobs and what is available and cheap to get the job done. Great video. My miter stand is nearly identical in design. Offset, with no fence. Just table stops. Frameless panels with a strengthened top. And those zero clearance inserts are all you need. Better than lasers or shadow lines. Great job man. Very smart business build.
I heard about this monstrosity on Wood Talk and thought I better come check it out. Great work! I’ve been looking at different miter stations and think this is the way I’ll go. Thanks!
I'm just about to do my shop build and in the planning stage. So happy I saw this video first. I have a 26' wall where the miter is going to go. I'm considering putting my jointer in there at the same height so I can get double use out of the miter bench. Do you see any reason that would be a terrible idea?
How necessary is it to attach it to the wall? My shop will be in a garage that has a concrete block base wall to 26" height. Which, of course, means the stud wall is recessed a few inches. So, should I just cut the table top deeper to the drywall to compensate?
Nice preview video! I was laughing because I already had it in mind to comment "but the fence tells me where I can pile crap or not!" (In reality i pile crap on both sides, it's just more long term crap on the back side of the fence)
How did you make tops flat? I went a different way and used nice FLAT doors (hollow) and clued MDF on top and bottom...My floor is only 2 years old and flat...HOWEVER, AFter I put the surface on my frames and put my formica on it...I found a high spot...grrr. The frame is 4 lap joints of pine (yes flattened in joiner/planer) so all I can thing of is for now the one section that is high...I raised the levers hopping gravity will pull down the spot...otherwise I'll have to build another top...I've got a desk to build for grandson so this will wait.
I like your idea of a T-track for stops, and you're right about using the surface being easier without a fence in the way. My own solution was to mount the saw on the same level as the workbench top, not 3 1/2" below, then build 2 long boxes 3 1/2" tall, a few feet long as dictated by the workbench length, and a vertical back on the boxes that extends a few inches upward to allow clamping stops to it. Also a horizontal flange in the back of each box with star knobs on bolts that thread through the flange into nuts set into the workbench top, for precise re-locating, should the boxes need to be moved. The boxes are made mostly from 1/4" plywood, divided into drawer sections by 1/2" plywood dividers (which being vertical, are also the main supports for the weight of the workpieces being cut), and the mini drawers that slide into these spaces are simply glued and pinned small boxes made from the 1/4", since they don't hold that much (the small clamps for stops, tape measure, pencil, etc.). Since they're precisely located with the knobbed bolts, a tape measure decal on the clamping backer can remain accurate.
Great video and idea. The theory and practical makes perfect sense. This will be the bases of my next mitre station. I like that the stop is still an option because that is a must however did you consider changing the side of the flip down so the wood could have a bit of support at the stop end? And if it was perfectly aligned with the saw fence it would help keep those long lengths square to the blade while allowing for any bows the length may have. Great job. I love your work!!
What do you think about those rulers on the incra t tracks? I got the same track and really not happy with the inserts since they are in multiple sections, and having a hard time finding another brand that will slide into it.
I moved into my new home and need to make a workbench/station. I really like the look and total concept. I have a question: I'm not sure of the dimensions of this plan. I'm wondering if your plans will fit in my space I have.
This makes much sense to me to be honest! As a metal fabricator for as long as I have been my Miter Saw has only an 18" fence on the left side and a 0 fence on the right side. I do that because of the curve that 100% of metal stock has coming from the manufacturer in 20 foot pieces. It longer the fence, it more inaccurate the cut, the more difficult the fit up and uglier the weld....
Long fences are great for cutting long sections that need to be square. If you are doing many of them it means you do not have to go messing around and can just put it up against the long fence with ease. When doing hundreds of long cuts it makes it really easy.
I notice that you have 2 T-slots. One appears to be aligned just behind the fence. The other is set well in front of the fence. Can you please explain why two are necessary?
My new saw station has 8 feet on the left and 50 inches on the right. I have a 1x4 board screwed down horizontally the entire length fo the table. It is set back 1/8 inch from the saw fence so it will not interfere with the saw. I also have a Microjig stop block running the entire distance of the fence. My table is 36 inches deep so I have a lot of storage space behind the table fence. My saw table is a raised box and I put six wide drawers along the front to the table. Behind the fence I have two lids on the left and one on the right for storage.
Marc, I asked this questions a few months back. I am thinking about building a "fence-less" system and would like to know how you calibrated your stop to the ruler?
@@woodwhisperer Of course!! No replacement for the good old Tape! Anyways, good stuff Marc! Keep it up! But I had a question about your counter top on this project? Did you use any product to harden them??
This is a quick look at the construction of my No Fence Miter Station. If you'd like detailed plans and a full set of videos, head over to the Guild. thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/miter-station/
Movable cleats for the saw section. Come on Marc, you'll never get another miter saw. :)
Your the man. A huge fence is such a bad idea thanks for making that point. And that looks like a universally good set up for anyone.
Several times your driver looked like it had a Forstner bit and expected a big hole and then it wasn’t there. What was that ?
@@derekw40 amzn.to/32Ef7E0
Thanks Marc what an awesome tool I sometimes go overboard on countersinks 😁
Great tool which will not disappoint. A little on the pricey side but the convenience factor is really nice.Update: 11/3/18 - Still works great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe and not disappointed at with the purchase. Wish I could have bought this at the lower price but ah well. This miter saw is truly awesome after two years of use. Makes cutting quick without messing around. I leant this tool to a friend for trim work at his home. He returned after using my saw and bought one for himself. I guess his demo with my saw was the deciding factor
That 2 second bit where you nail through tape then putty over the tape to hide the nails is genius. Wish I'd known that trick before now.
UA-cam has been invaluable for picking up small bits of wisdom from seasoned pro's... that's another really cool one.
I had to rewind to look at that and figure out what just happened. Agreed, that is a "genius" trick.
I missed that.. can someone time-tag it? 😊
17 years ago I built the Norm Abrams version for my miter station. At the time everything made great sense. Now you show me much better ways to do the top and storage. There is no way I am going to completely rebuild my miter station but I certainly am going to retrofit the top and (no)fence parts. Thank you for some great ideas. You and Norm are my hero's.
I have this guild project, highly recommend it. It’s very thorough, Marc is a great instructor!
Thanks Stanley!
The #1 project that I want to build in my shop is a mitre station. There are a number of good designs out in YT-land, but I was stuck because my biggest question was "Fence, or no fence?" Thank you for your pov and reasoning on this. I have settled on "no fence". I also agree with your 8' and 4' sides. Thank you for the video!
I have used this system for years and it hasn't failed me yet. Just plain common sense and saves a lot of the green stuff. Just wished the t-track weren't so darned expensive. My stop block was a scrap piece of Jatoba. Was going to use the Purple Heart but not my favorite wood.
Thank you for pushing the non-full fence miter station. I've been trying to explain to people, you don't need a long fence, and it's actually detrimental if your workpiece isn't dead straight. Great job on the build as always.
Awesome build sir. I built my shop cabinets/miter station extremely similar to yours and I love it. Fenceless all the way. Do you find yourself using the measurement on the Incra T-track often? Or do you mark the boards you are cutting after measuring separately? Trying to decide if integrating a measurement tape into my work surface is worth it.
I remember seeing your video before this one, it was interesting
I hope one day I'm as proficient a woodworker as Mark. I don't know if it's decades of mistakes but he always seems to think of everything prior to a build. Always good being able to consult his videos before I go muck something up (making a bench top for some existing cabinet frames and the tip about making the saw height adjustable is 💥). Thanks for all the (free) content Mark. I hope to join the guild someday. Shout out as well to Matt and Shannon as well for the Wood Talk podcast. I went for the knowledge, but stayed for the comedy.
simple . effective and practical. No extra wasted on over engineering like many videos have. Especially the point about the long fence guide.
1:26 When you have a T-track you basicly also have the oppetunety to add a piece of fence wherever it is convienient depending on the lenght of the piece you wish to cut. Half a meter of fence that you can slide along the T-track and push all out of the way when not in use, could be handy 😊
Great build bud! I think you're the first woodworker on UA-cam that I've seen actually use a respirator the whole time when cutting and finishing things. Thank you! I haven't seen anyone else do this, and most don't even use them when using finishes. I am very appreciative for you modeling good respiratory safety around dust and vapors. It's so important to lung health to protect them. Everyone else is just modeling how to fuck them up to everyone who doesn't know any better. So thank you again for that!!!
Mark this video was right on time.. was getting ready to purchase aluminum fences and expensive stops.. I love the fencers approach.. never looked at it that way.. thanks again 👍😊❤️
I like the free version and watching the video good techniques and hints along the way. And awesome toe kicks. Thanks for posting.
I've been shuffling my chop saw around the shop for a decade while trying to figure out a station configuration that would work in my shop. Finally! Your fence-less system will definitely work for my shop! I have 1,000 square feet but never enough horizontal surface to make everything work.
Very good setup very good job
Thanks for showing how you put everything together
Very timely, I think this is my next major shop project. Now to find time to dedicate to it.
This is by far the best system
1. Agree 100% about the fence. Props.
2. Spider-Man shirt means I can watch this with my toddler and keep him entertained.
Great video.
I'm planning on making myself a set of drawers that will sit on top of my cabinets to act as extension beds for my miter saw. Glad I watched this...really don't need the fence, and this made me realize it.
When I first saw your no fence setup and stops/T-tracks on the surface, it made total sense. It's clean and I'll eventually do a similar setup. - Jim
Fantastic project Marc. I’ve always wondered why some miter stations have such long fences and why they are necessary. In one quick statement you answered by demonstrating what happens when a piece of lumber is not perfectly square. Since I use my miter saw mostly for breaking down long boards that makes a lot of sense. As you said, the accuracy of the cut is at the blade not the end of a long fence. I also like your cabinet design. Easy and fairly quick. Thanks for the inspiration.
A perfectly square station with long fences can enable you to easily cut long sections of wood and to a very precise measurements that are also square.
bighand69 that was my point. I don’t use my miter saw for precision cutting and if, as Marc suggested, the long board isn’t perfectly straight then the cut at the saw will not be 90 degrees. My miter saw is mainly for cutting long boards to approximate lengths. The only precision cuts at the miter saw is on shorter lengths and I prefer to use my table saw if accuracy is extremely important.
Thanks for posting Marc. I bought he guild plans and made the miter station. The plans and videos were excellent and I encourage everyone wanting to build something like this to go to the Guild and purchase them. I have not put the T-tracks in yet but I am thinking one will do.. Do you have any hindsight on having two tracks Marc?
A great idea with no loss of bench space! You make building cabinets look quick and easy (with the right tools of course).
It's more the editing than the tools. :)
A great instructor and the Woodwhisperer resources Marc has produced are simply enjoyable to follow. Highly recommend. I'm very happy with my end result and it gets used everyday!
That really is a great set up. I couldn’t agree more about not having a fence. I built a mobile miter stand using plans from Brad (FTBT) and I didn’t get precise with the fence and it’s off just a touch. It was one of my first projects so I didn’t think about the precision of the fence. So I focus on the fence on the saw. Maybe I’ll remove the fence and look into installing a track for a stop and tape measure. Anyway...you do really good work.
Robin Lewis posted a video not long ago about a miter saw station that he built without fences. The difference between his and yours is that his T-track is not recessed for the reason you mentioned that some people may want to consider an extended fence; to keep him from using it as a storage bench. Even though I would probably be inclined to do the same, the recessed T-track does look a lot nicer. you did a great job with that as usual.
I am not a fan of having a fence either and you nailed it with your explanation. I LOVE IT !!!! I guess I need to get your plans because there isn't much I will change about your design . Nicely Done
I put a t-track, and made a fence from 20x60 V-slot that I am able to mount, and slide into the t-track.
Extrusions make life sooo much easier. (Especially when you only have use of 1 arm/leg, like myself.)
I like this a lot. Great idea to use the tracks and no fence.
Excellent - Awsome vid with just the juice and none of the pulp 👌
Just the other day I moved my mitre saw forward about 15mm. I still have the fence as it’s attached to a cabinet but now the timber does not utilise the fence although I am still able to use the stop block.
Hi Mark, I am in the middle of building my mobile miter saw cart with extension wings and I was debating between fence or no fence and t-track in the extension wings. Your reasoning for having the t-track in the extension wings made me go with no fence system. I was wondering about the functionality of the second t track in your extension wings? What do you need that for?
I kinda wish I saw this before starting my miter station build. I'm midway through a Jay Bates inspired setup. I felt that was good for the miter saw hood and dust collection. I just got a new miter saw that's larger do I need to do a little modification. I guess I'll continue and see how it all works. Then I think I can re do a few things and turn it into something like this if I want to later. Thanks for the ideas, Marc.
Jay has a video about the fence to discuss the pros cons since this no fence wave has hit
So I'd say look it up.
As long as you're aware of which fence your work is referencing, I'd say you're good.
@@MrCinnamonboy yea, I've seen his videos. Marc's setup is nice and clean, but Jay's is too, just different styles. Jay mentioned his saw is a bit forward of the fence to account for and curvature.
Awesome tip about offsetting the saw!
Great project because of its practicality. Need a stop, not a fence. Saves space!
However, I've started building a platform for the toe kick and do my leveling with it. Then just drop the base cabinets on it.
This is so cool ! The flip stop away from any work piece it really change my idea for my new miter station !! Thanks and keep going bro 👍🏻
My fence fur my saw is also my plywood storage system so behind my fence is my sheet goods. Great discussion on this topic.
I’ve seen the countersink bit in other videos. Who makes it? The whole thing makes perfect sense. Going to rethink my plan. Thanks.
Good job Marc. None of this was overkilled. I love seeing you use common brands like DeWalt and Milwaukee. It shows people that the skill is in the use and not the tools. The higher end stuff definitely has its place. But you did a great job with this. And 100% about the whole thing of sometimes it's better to buy something than to make it when time. is money. Use leftovers from jobs and what is available and cheap to get the job done. Great video.
My miter stand is nearly identical in design. Offset, with no fence. Just table stops. Frameless panels with a strengthened top.
And those zero clearance inserts are all you need. Better than lasers or shadow lines. Great job man. Very smart business build.
I built this project and love it. Very satisfying.
I heard about this monstrosity on Wood Talk and thought I better come check it out. Great work! I’ve been looking at different miter stations and think this is the way I’ll go. Thanks!
This makes a lot of sense. I'm moving and setting up a new shop. Food for thought.
Nice work, definitely pulling some tips from this for my new miter station. Thanks! nice quality video work and editing too. Subscribed.
Finally, a common sense Miter Station video !!!!!!
I knew there was a reason you was my Hero 😘
I thought I was the wind beneath your wings? I guess I'll settle for hero.
I'm just about to do my shop build and in the planning stage. So happy I saw this video first. I have a 26' wall where the miter is going to go. I'm considering putting my jointer in there at the same height so I can get double use out of the miter bench. Do you see any reason that would be a terrible idea?
Good build and explination.👍👍😁 Now I'm going to watch Friday live thanks.2 wood whisperers in one day yay.
For the movable cleats, whats the preferred method for creating the slots? Router or drill bit multiple times?
how did you fasten the dust collection brush to your miter saw? I have the same saw, and I'm looking at doing something similar.
So glad you are making videos again! I have nothing to add but I'm liking and interacting.
Again? I never knew he stopped?
@@andrewv5104 it's been at least 26 minutes since his last video.
Thank you for this video. I have been saying the same thing in my shop at work for year.
Excellent video. I’ve always felt the long fence was unnecessary. I’m glad I wasn’t the only one
Good video. Then again there’s shorter wings for support rather then alignment? I typically leave tools on flat surfaces.
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How necessary is it to attach it to the wall? My shop will be in a garage that has a concrete block base wall to 26" height. Which, of course, means the stud wall is recessed a few inches. So, should I just cut the table top deeper to the drywall to compensate?
Very nice , like the offsetting
Nice preview video! I was laughing because I already had it in mind to comment "but the fence tells me where I can pile crap or not!" (In reality i pile crap on both sides, it's just more long term crap on the back side of the fence)
I'm planning on buying the Guild project but can't find dimensions. Can you share the dimensions of the build as it is shown in this video?
Was wondering what made you decide to cut the toe kicks into the side panels and not build a separate toe kick frame?
How did you make tops flat? I went a different way and used nice FLAT doors (hollow) and clued MDF on top and bottom...My floor is only 2 years old and flat...HOWEVER, AFter I put the surface on my frames and put my formica on it...I found a high spot...grrr. The frame is 4 lap joints of pine (yes flattened in joiner/planer) so all I can thing of is for now the one section that is high...I raised the levers hopping gravity will pull down the spot...otherwise I'll have to build another top...I've got a desk to build for grandson so this will wait.
You know Marc,
I've been watching a lot of your older videos... You are a very good educator of woodworking. I'm just sayin'!
I enjoy these videos. I look forward to one day joining the guild. You have a very easy to understand and great style of teaching.
Another stellar build Mr. Whisperer! Where did you get the RTA cabinets. I figure if you can use them, I can at least consider it.
Cabinotch
That’s pretty good pricing. Considering the time involved to build them, it’s definitely worth doing.
Well-thought-out, as always. Thanks, Marc!
You no longer have slide compound saw ?
I like your idea of a T-track for stops, and you're right about using the surface being easier without a fence in the way.
My own solution was to mount the saw on the same level as the workbench top, not 3 1/2" below, then build 2 long boxes 3 1/2" tall, a few feet long as dictated by the workbench length, and a vertical back on the boxes that extends a few inches upward to allow clamping stops to it. Also a horizontal flange in the back of each box with star knobs on bolts that thread through the flange into nuts set into the workbench top, for precise re-locating, should the boxes need to be moved. The boxes are made mostly from 1/4" plywood, divided into drawer sections by 1/2" plywood dividers (which being vertical, are also the main supports for the weight of the workpieces being cut), and the mini drawers that slide into these spaces are simply glued and pinned small boxes made from the 1/4", since they don't hold that much (the small clamps for stops, tape measure, pencil, etc.). Since they're precisely located with the knobbed bolts, a tape measure decal on the clamping backer can remain accurate.
Great video and idea. The theory and practical makes perfect sense. This will be the bases of my next mitre station. I like that the stop is still an option because that is a must however did you consider changing the side of the flip down so the wood could have a bit of support at the stop end? And if it was perfectly aligned with the saw fence it would help keep those long lengths square to the blade while allowing for any bows the length may have. Great job. I love your work!!
What do you think about those rulers on the incra t tracks? I got the same track and really not happy with the inserts since they are in multiple sections, and having a hard time finding another brand that will slide into it.
Honestly I never use it. Never calibrated them and then I had one tear at some point so never gave them much more thought.
I moved into my new home and need to make a workbench/station. I really like the look and total concept. I have a question: I'm not sure of the dimensions of this plan. I'm wondering if your plans will fit in my space I have.
You can always modify the dimensions of the plans to fit your space. Just draw it out on paper with the correct dimensions.
Great job!
I like the slide out trays, nice idea 🤓👍
And also, why the two t-tracks on each side? Thanks again.
Nicely done Marc! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
This makes much sense to me to be honest! As a metal fabricator for as long as I have been my Miter Saw has only an 18" fence on the left side and a 0 fence on the right side. I do that because of the curve that 100% of metal stock has coming from the manufacturer in 20 foot pieces. It longer the fence, it more inaccurate the cut, the more difficult the fit up and uglier the weld....
Awesome video Marc, on my list to make!
Thanks for posting this. What dimensions are your toe kicks?
I've never understood why people like fences. Your setup is much more sensible. Thanks for sharing.
Long fences are great for cutting long sections that need to be square. If you are doing many of them it means you do not have to go messing around and can just put it up against the long fence with ease.
When doing hundreds of long cuts it makes it really easy.
Congrats on 597K!
How do you like that DeWalt miter saw. What happened to the Bosch? About to buy one of the two.
Mark, what is the reason for the cut outs as opposed to pocket holed stretcher?
Thank you. Perfect timing. Opened UA-cam to go to the other video and ask why not leveling feet. 🙂
I do the same thing! Thanks for making this video.
Amazing! Might I ask what type of finish did you go with for the top of the miter station?
I notice that you have 2 T-slots. One appears to be aligned just behind the fence. The other is set well in front of the fence. Can you please explain why two are necessary?
How is the “cleat” for the tray holding the saw created? Is this a “French cleat”?
Great video! Really appreciate the fresh outlook. Where do you find the magnetic feather board you use in the video? Much appreciated. Thanks
very good point to better go without fences but only stops !
because of the sloped ground did you fit toekicks afterward so dust and debris will not get under the cabinetry?
how did you decide the height of the bench off the floor? very nice thank you
Great video as usual! What’s the purpose of the 2nd t-slot in the table?
more options, nice budget... and to show off his fancy Festool big ass saw track with router attachment...ha.
Running a makerspace we have an issue with the flat space junk collection. So we have a fence more as a method of keeping members from junking it up.
My new saw station has 8 feet on the left and 50 inches on the right. I have a 1x4 board screwed down horizontally the entire length fo the table. It is set back 1/8 inch from the saw fence so it will not interfere with the saw. I also have a Microjig stop block running the entire distance of the fence. My table is 36 inches deep so I have a lot of storage space behind the table fence. My saw table is a raised box and I put six wide drawers along the front to the table. Behind the fence I have two lids on the left and one on the right for storage.
So you ditched Bosch saw? I just ordered one after watching one of your videos.
Sorry if I missed this in the video...Is there a standard height for a MS station?
where did you buy the RTA cabinets from?
I was looking for the same thing... Went to rtacabinetstore.com and that wasn't it. Id like to find just the boxes like he had.
Nevermind.... Found it below (Adam L Cabinotch)
Hi Marc,
At 2:51, what's that thick pink board exactly under the plywood sheets when you're cutting them with the track saw?
Hi Marc, why two t tracks? Not sure why you have one in front of the fence...
Marc, I asked this questions a few months back. I am thinking about building a "fence-less" system and would like to know how you calibrated your stop to the ruler?
I honestly haven't. It came with the t-track I purchase but I haven't bothered trying to do any kind of calibration. I just use my tape measure.
@@woodwhisperer Of course!! No replacement for the good old Tape! Anyways, good stuff Marc! Keep it up! But I had a question about your counter top on this project? Did you use any product to harden them??
I like your design, but I'd be worried about beating up my counter tops, if they were made from plywood?
Nice job, why you set 2 t-tracks?