I remember I had a chain snap on me when I was 2 hours away from home, I had just bought an expensive chain and it was considered high quality. It snapped and I walked 30min to a bikeshop and took the cheapest matching chain and swapped it with a screwdriver and a 8mm socket for like 12$ and I drove it for 2 years until I sold it😂 love the vids, keep em comin
I’ve always used whatever cheap hardware store #40 chain I can get and I’ve only snapped them after some serious abuse and knowing it was gonna snap soon and sending it anyways. Don’t understand the high price chain market. Can’t see it lasting any longer dirt racing than the cheep stuff.
I have a Huffy bicycle with a two stroke engine added onto it. The 415 chain let go and locked up my rear wheel. I was doing maybe ten mph at the time and kept it upright through the full skid successfully. In my eyes safety is a priority, I'm getting older and pain sucks. I replaced it with a better chain and so far have no issues. With a few horsepower you wouldn't think you can have problems like that, but they are called freak incidents for a good reason. I don't like to skimp on tires, chains or helmets.
The 2 front clutches into the 3rd engine with the torque converter will let all 3 rev up before the bike takes off.That way all 3 are closest to their powerband before it launches,and when the converter kicks in,hang on tight!
Now that actually makes a lot of sense! If the TC is on the back engine, you could run live chains from the 2 front engines, no clutches needed! (providing the transfer sprocket from the front two is running directly on the crank). Hell they could even sync the cranks to run like a 3 cylinder! It would probably take at least 2 guys to start it, so you don't break a recoil or the rope, but once its running, look out!😄
The best rig for this bike would be to get rid of all three clutches, and run a chain to connect all three cranks, then put a torque converter on the engine closest to the rear wheel with a motorcycle quality 420 chain for the final drive. You will be amazed how easy it is to control your power, and keep the drive line in one piece.
@@bradleyj.fortner2203 Nah. I mean it would be preferred, but they will sync the speed. Pushing and pulling on a running motors crank doesn't matter. Same as a locked up clutch on a truck w/ a trailer attached. Makes no difference.
John got it perfect. The performance cams move the power band up, and those basic clutches are meant for a stock honda clone and nothing more. Could get a racing disc clutch with adjustable stall speed for each engine and that would solve the issue, but three of them are expensive. Better option would be to jackshaft it back to a used CVT from a polaris ranger or something that can handle 50+ horsepower(as i expect you guys will continue going up). Imagine how much faster a lot of your projects would be if you had a better stall speed for the engine.
Just add a converter between the rear engine and the wheel. Drop final drive ratio until the converter immediately comes up in the powerband and is just starting to top out at the 1/8th. The powers is there, just not on the range it's geared to. Also, those minibke clutches do not spin the engine no matter how fast you spin the drum, the shoes have to be turning. On that note, a stiffer set of springs in the shoes would be an easy improvement, but the converter is the way to go if you can rig it.
@@GooseGosselin The Torque converter assembly is a jackshaft. If you tie the 3 engines together with bare sprockets, with the 3rd one's bare sprocket inboard of the torque converter, then mount the drive sheave outside of that, the torque converter has it's own jackshaft as part of the driven sheave/output sprocket. That goes to the main drive chain (and it's size helps set the final drive ratio). The trick is getting it all to fit on the last motor, the torque converter plate will have to be mounted on standoffs to clear the interconnect sprocket, assuming the crank snout is long enough to fit both the sprocket and the converter - that's the tricky part.
Here is a thought. If you put sprockets on All 3 engines, you would be able to time the exhaust strokes to make your header work better. Then tie in a torque converter on the final engine and see what kind of fun you have with all of that!
Great idea, Can even ‘time’ the engines so they all fire evenly apart or all together for smoother power delivery for a Big Bang Moto GP style firing order for big torque pulses.. Each engine basically becomes one that works together
They are wasting their time with a three into one. The effort it will take to get three differently built engines to flow evenly into one pipe will be a nightmare. They have already seen the issue of needing to be able to move the engines to keep the chains tight.
Tip for when you have got a hot low end and grip from the rear tire starts to lack. Do the burnout at a lower tirespeed, now as the tire starts to balloon the contact patch to the ground gets smaller and less of the tire gets hotter. Love your videos
also, this creates a weak point in the middle of the tire thinning out whats considered to be the "most important part" of the tire. that tire balloons out so crazy
It doesn't look like their problem is grip. It was just bogging down so much on the launch. That may be an issue in the future if they get it to hook up off the line!
9:45 this demonstrates why I think you should build a dyno. Not to replace actual drive testing, but to cut down on some of the downtime by making a good ballpark tune in the shop before heading to the strip or the track. Plus it’d be so cool to have some actual torque and HP numbers to compare upgrades.
They make spring kits for those clutches. We used to swap them out for a higher stall off the line. They come in different colors depending on the stiffness of the springs. I used the stiffest ones and, they are a little hard to put in but makes a huge difference in engagement rpms.
I have no idea about motors or anything like that, but it is soooooooooooooo much fun watching Ike and Charles work their butts off and sometimes succeeding and sometimes not while John stands back a yells faster, faster, faster and I want it in a hurry. But every group needs a John to stay motivated. LOVED THE VIDEO GUYS
I would try tuning one engine at a time, get the most out of each one individually then try them all together. You may have only one engine that's acting up, but it will be hard to tell with the others running. Good luck and thanks for the videos.
Keep up the amazing builds fellas, brings back sketchy memories of growing up on the farm with dad and uncles obsessed with big power everything.. one cart was a 600 triple zrt sled motor and clutch. Did 102mph. Another was a 25horse vtwin from a sod layer. Amazing fun
New Subscriber here. These videos take me back. When I was 14 I found an old Arctic Cat mini bike in my grandma's garage. I took the frame' sand blasted it then powder coated it black. I had a local upholstery shop re create the seat and sourced new hardware from a place called "king bolt". When I saved up enough I bought a 10hp Briggs and slapped a centrifugal on it. That thing was a blast all of the way until the chain snapped at top speed, wrapped around the sprocket locking the rear wheel and sent me over the handlebars. I got a concussion and still had to push the bike home with the wheel locked up. 1 big tire mark the whole way. Good times.
Def need to link all 3 engines so you can time the exhaust valves for the header to work right. Then you could put the torque converter on the rear engine and that should really help like alot even with the current gearing.
Keep the great videos coming, guys. Maybe 3 fully built Tillotsons on this bike in future? Racing clutches or a torque converter. I think clutches would keep it simple. You can get a lot of off the line performance with clutches that slip the right amount.
Great progress video. I love seeing what the builds can do, looking forward to seeing more, this project has really grown on me! I know you guys will get it dialed, you're awesome!
Hey guys love what yal do. You have given me hrs of great entertainment and hell I've learned many things. I do have a small suggestion and that's now that Charles has been full time for awhile I figure your website should reflect that.
I once saw a guy hard mount sprockets to the crank shafts of two engines, chain the two engines 180 degrees apart (they were two strokes) and then have the rear engine chained to a jackshaft with a clutch, you might want to try that, it’d be an interesting build, take the three engines and mount one sprocket on the front engine, And two sprockets on both rear engines, chain all the engines together timed correctly like a 3cylinder and then chain the rear to a jackshaft, maybe even figure out a way to use a torque converter on the jackshaft
oh man that thing sounds great with the 3 engines running and that burnout was epic. can't wait to see you get it tuned up better to get off the line at the strip
if your having problems with clutches sticking to fast. it means the tensions on clutch plates are opening to fast that causes to stall out or weaken engine to catch rpm faster. it is a simple as cutting 2-4 spring rings and recurve a hook to each clutch each clutch spring. by doing this allows the spring to be spread open later at higher rpm than faster at start. So hammering throttle this will allow less engine bog at run jam throttle
reminder 3 engines at difference ratios so mean one has to catch faster than others. put faster better engine at the rear. so front motor keep at normal clutch springs 2 motor 2 cuts. 3 motor 3-4 cuts. use old clutches to experiment.
Another thing that could be happening is the fact that you’re testing on a surface like the garage floor what are the gravel where the tires are free to start spinning instantly without any trouble. On a dragstrip those tires are gonna have to speed up with the bike. And if the bike is at a dead stop the tires are gonna be at a dead stop and the engines will bog and perhaps even stall at a dead stop. Torque converters are a great option because it’s a smoother introduction of power and torque to the rear wheel. And the engine rpm doesn’t have to slow down to get the bike going as the gear ratio changes.
Y'all should build a drift car. That's a project where you don't need to come up with ideas for what to build for a LONG TIME. Then after every event, you got content from filming the repairs of everything you broke. Genius.
You guys got some amazing builds I've been watching you guys since you guys was looking like teenagers so I'm glad you in the position that you're in keep it up you are my inspiration the reason why my picture has that bike on motor on it thanks for the inspiration cars and cameras
This will sound weird but are the clutches engaging at the same time? Check the weights and spring to see if they are all the same. The clutch pads being the same weight, the lighter the better. The springs all having the same tension will help. Engine idle speed is verry critical, along with wide open throttle. EVERYTHNG HAS TO MATCH!
I agree with John that the hot cams do not have low end torque (lower than stock motors) and that a higher stall clutch is needed (4000-5000rpm). The high stall clutches may get hot, but oh well, that is how the top fuel dragsters work, they slip until they weld. I experienced the same exact thing when I was mini rod tractor pulling. We went from a stock cam to a hot cam in my Chevy engine and could not get off the line with the stock low stall torque converter in my powerglide transmission.
More complex but probably best result: drive a single larger torque converter, like the GPS 780 by all three engines. I would also consider putting sprockets on the output of each motor and having them be synchronous with a chain connecting the first and second motors and a chain connecting the second and third motors. The output of the third engine could then be used to drive the torque converter. In this case, you could effectively tune the firing timing and use the 3in1 header too.
Forget the 3 into 1, nothing but lots of changes will make that work IMHO. Individual known happy exhausts and the right identical clutches and hang on! Good stuff guys!
If you drill holes through the sides of the clutch shoes you can raise the stall speed of the clutches. Lighter clutch shoes will grab at a higher RPM. Classic kart racing trick
Confused as to why it ran like crap on the strip, but around the yard it was awesome. Super strange, you guys were killing it with the work you put into it.
You can cut the spring inside the clutch. Like 2 or 3 loops and then it will have a much later engagement point. I would always do this for my mini bikes, you can rev it without moving until you gas it and it pretty much dumps the clutch in a way. Just a thought! Maybe give it a try,?
Y'all should put the first two engines on on direct belt drive and the second one also direct belt to third. Then clutch or torque converter to wheel. There are a few guys on a Facebook group called Brig's and Stratton for junkies, a fewer members have multiple engine set ups for tractor pulling/racing. Most of them do that set up. They mention the engines have a tendency to "fight" each other. The two belt allow slippage so engines can rev up faster. Which sounds like is going on in yalls case, fighting each other at low end.
Put sprockets directly on the shafts of all engines locking the timing of the engines 1/3 apart in the cycle so power is evenly distributed. On the last engine install torque converter to rear wheel. Pull starting will be a little harder to pull but as soon as one fires they will all start.
This is a pure shot in the dark, but what if you ran one big ol chain through all three engines to the rear wheel? Of course, sinking the engines would be more crucial, but it's a thought that I just had.
I really think you guys are on to something. A juggernaut you think would help tremendously. But first, use three engines the are the exact same. Alas, thanks again for another great video!
After changing the current set to a gear ring dedicated to starting, connect with a one-way clutch. In parallel, connect an additional centrifugal clutch with a high speed gear ring. This is perfect.
clutches have springs that can be changed with color coded ones for rpm setup, had racing go kart stock appearing with 4000 stall springs . Stock clutch only thing replaced was springs
I think if you got some higher stall speed clutch springs/shoes tailored for the power band on *each* engine, you'd have it made. I know they're starting to make power at different rpm's especially the 196 clone and the Tillotson 212. They probably need higher stall speed to get out of the hole better (like 4000+). I think your gearing is pretty close for the most part, since they're pretty wound up when you get to the big end. Pretty cool nonetheless!😁
Do what MR GIXXER 1300r says, " The best rig for this bike would be to get rid of all three clutches, and run a chain to connect all three cranks, then put a torque converter on the engine closest to the rear wheel with a motorcycle quality 420 chain for the final drive. You will be amazed how easy it is to control your power, and keep the drive line in one piece." Remember its 720 degrees to each power stroke, so link the engines with 12 tooth 18 or 24 tooth sprockets, then time TDC with a 240 degree rotation to the next motor and so on so that you have a proper timing of 1,2,3 or possibly 1,3,2 to the engines then torque converter at the rear tho separate from all engines and you will have to rig up an electric starter as well cause you aint going to be able to use one of the pull starters on any motor to start all 3 if you catch my drift. That way all motors have to fire and keep up. Id build the bejesus out of all 3 motors to 25hp each and blast off a 7 second run easily
We can't always be cool 100% of the time at the track. What matters is that there's a day in the not too distant future where that pile of death trap becomes the coolest thing at the track that day
Have you thought of ditching the 3 clutches and solid sprocket all 3 engines (timed right this may help with your 3 into 1 header) and run a belt convertor on the back? Bonus is any engine that stalls should fire back up again. Downside is pull starting as you will start all engines simultaneously, just a thought
Great video. You guys are usually on dirt. So when you start off your wheels are spinning and as you're going you gain traction. You started off doing a burnout to heat up the tires and I believe you had too much traction for your horsepower. Maybe start off doing a burnout when the light turns green or don't heat up the tires before and doing a burnout when the light turns green.
I remember I had a chain snap on me when I was 2 hours away from home, I had just bought an expensive chain and it was considered high quality. It snapped and I walked 30min to a bikeshop and took the cheapest matching chain and swapped it with a screwdriver and a 8mm socket for like 12$ and I drove it for 2 years until I sold it😂 love the vids, keep em comin
Do you remember what brand the expensive chain was? Just out of curiosity
I’ve always used whatever cheap hardware store #40 chain I can get and I’ve only snapped them after some serious abuse and knowing it was gonna snap soon and sending it anyways. Don’t understand the high price chain market. Can’t see it lasting any longer dirt racing than the cheep stuff.
@@garageofscrap If I aint mistaken, it’s the D.I.D high end range
I have a Huffy bicycle with a two stroke engine added onto it. The 415 chain let go and locked up my rear wheel. I was doing maybe ten mph at the time and kept it upright through the full skid successfully. In my eyes safety is a priority, I'm getting older and pain sucks. I replaced it with a better chain and so far have no issues. With a few horsepower you wouldn't think you can have problems like that, but they are called freak incidents for a good reason.
I don't like to skimp on tires, chains or helmets.
I snapped a chain ab a mile off in the woods and to push the bich
The 2 front clutches into the 3rd engine with the torque converter will let all 3 rev up before the bike takes off.That way all 3 are closest to their powerband before it launches,and when the converter kicks in,hang on tight!
That's laughable.
@@la_plata3588 Agree, T.converter to crank-T. converter to crank to T.converter to sprocket( Tire).
@@liljohnp132 idk why it commented on this I thought I was commenting on another comment
@@la_plata3588 It's all Good"ness". Good Luck to You and Yours.
Now that actually makes a lot of sense! If the TC is on the back engine, you could run live chains from the 2 front engines, no clutches needed! (providing the transfer sprocket from the front two is running directly on the crank). Hell they could even sync the cranks to run like a 3 cylinder! It would probably take at least 2 guys to start it, so you don't break a recoil or the rope, but once its running, look out!😄
The best rig for this bike would be to get rid of all three clutches, and run a chain to connect all three cranks, then put a torque converter on the engine closest to the rear wheel with a motorcycle quality 420 chain for the final drive. You will be amazed how easy it is to control your power, and keep the drive line in one piece.
You could do this without ditching the centrifugal clutches as well, I think.
They'd need to sync the engines to do that wouldn't they? I've been pushing for them to do that since they built this thing.
@@bradleyj.fortner2203 Nah. I mean it would be preferred, but they will sync the speed. Pushing and pulling on a running motors crank doesn't matter. Same as a locked up clutch on a truck w/ a trailer attached. Makes no difference.
good advice; they seem to have a strange roach that seems a single engine would be more performance.
I would like to see you start all three engines by yourself. I do what hacked robot said.
If only this bike launched like it does burnouts 😔 we’ll get it dialed!
you guys are the best 👌 you will get it ❤
Hehehehee🤓
You need a better fatter back tire
Definitely needs a torque converter or looser clutches, so the engines can get up in their rev range.
Great episode, I love these hope your 3 engine starts launching
John got it perfect. The performance cams move the power band up, and those basic clutches are meant for a stock honda clone and nothing more. Could get a racing disc clutch with adjustable stall speed for each engine and that would solve the issue, but three of them are expensive. Better option would be to jackshaft it back to a used CVT from a polaris ranger or something that can handle 50+ horsepower(as i expect you guys will continue going up).
Imagine how much faster a lot of your projects would be if you had a better stall speed for the engine.
viewers, start sending in your spare race clutches!
Just add a converter between the rear engine and the wheel. Drop final drive ratio until the converter immediately comes up in the powerband and is just starting to top out at the 1/8th. The powers is there, just not on the range it's geared to. Also, those minibke clutches do not spin the engine no matter how fast you spin the drum, the shoes have to be turning. On that note, a stiffer set of springs in the shoes would be an easy improvement, but the converter is the way to go if you can rig it.
With a jackshaft you mean?
@@GooseGosselin The Torque converter assembly is a jackshaft. If you tie the 3 engines together with bare sprockets, with the 3rd one's bare sprocket inboard of the torque converter, then mount the drive sheave outside of that, the torque converter has it's own jackshaft as part of the driven sheave/output sprocket. That goes to the main drive chain (and it's size helps set the final drive ratio). The trick is getting it all to fit on the last motor, the torque converter plate will have to be mounted on standoffs to clear the interconnect sprocket, assuming the crank snout is long enough to fit both the sprocket and the converter - that's the tricky part.
Agree. Lock the front two engines, forget the clutches and run a CVT on the final donk before the rear wheel.
Don't forget the engine's need to be timed if you Lock them together.
Then put normal sprockets on the front engines and tie into the rear engine
Here is a thought. If you put sprockets on All 3 engines, you would be able to time the exhaust strokes to make your header work better. Then tie in a torque converter on the final engine and see what kind of fun you have with all of that!
I second this fully. This sounds like it would make insane power!
Great idea, Can even ‘time’ the engines so they all fire evenly apart or all together for smoother power delivery for a Big Bang Moto GP style firing order for big torque pulses..
Each engine basically becomes one that works together
and with equal length headers. its gonna rip hard
They are wasting their time with a three into one. The effort it will take to get three differently built engines to flow evenly into one pipe will be a nightmare. They have already seen the issue of needing to be able to move the engines to keep the chains tight.
@@robmanueb. Yea this thing is a waste of time for sure.
Glad there are people who have time to waste.
Tip for when you have got a hot low end and grip from the rear tire starts to lack. Do the burnout at a lower tirespeed, now as the tire starts to balloon the contact patch to the ground gets smaller and less of the tire gets hotter.
Love your videos
also, this creates a weak point in the middle of the tire thinning out whats considered to be the "most important part" of the tire. that tire balloons out so crazy
It doesn't look like their problem is grip. It was just bogging down so much on the launch. That may be an issue in the future if they get it to hook up off the line!
@@MayheM_72 their problem is not grip, for now. Their goal is to get a much more aggresive bottom end and then grip will start to matter.
I'd say skip the burnout all together. It's not like grip off the line is an issue yet.
9:45 this demonstrates why I think you should build a dyno. Not to replace actual drive testing, but to cut down on some of the downtime by making a good ballpark tune in the shop before heading to the strip or the track. Plus it’d be so cool to have some actual torque and HP numbers to compare upgrades.
Yes, as well as afr sensors so they can properly tune the jetting on carbs
Bro, they don't even have a lathe and you're talking about building a dyno? There are about a million things they should do first.
@@bradleyj.fortner2203 Yup...they can start by welding the gas tank bracket.
"You ran a 69.69 in the mile an hour, that's pretty cool...... That's almost 70 miles an hour!" lolol. 🙂
I think the most enjoyable part of this channel is how everything is cobbled together and needs to be redone numerous times.
They make spring kits for those clutches. We used to swap them out for a higher stall off the line. They come in different colors depending on the stiffness of the springs. I used the stiffest ones and, they are a little hard to put in but makes a huge difference in engagement rpms.
THIS
I’m dying to see 3 cvt setups on that thing😂
I’d drive the hell out it👍
I have no idea about motors or anything like that, but it is soooooooooooooo much fun watching Ike and Charles work their butts off and sometimes succeeding and sometimes not while John stands back a yells faster, faster, faster and I want it in a hurry. But every group needs a John to stay motivated. LOVED THE VIDEO GUYS
That thing is NUTS! That burnout at the beginning was just so sick, all it needs is some gearing down and you’ll run 9’s for sure maybe even 8’s
I would try tuning one engine at a time, get the most out of each one individually then try them all together. You may have only one engine that's acting up, but it will be hard to tell with the others running. Good luck and thanks for the videos.
I'd definitely like to see this with CVTs, might end up with the skidmarks being left aren't from the tyres, but from the bowels of the rider... :P
Hell Yea, I Agree . The torque coupling would be truly epic.
Is there a yellow stain on the seat? No ....There's gonna be.
Keep up the amazing builds fellas, brings back sketchy memories of growing up on the farm with dad and uncles obsessed with big power everything.. one cart was a 600 triple zrt sled motor and clutch. Did 102mph. Another was a 25horse vtwin from a sod layer. Amazing fun
New Subscriber here. These videos take me back. When I was 14 I found an old Arctic Cat mini bike in my grandma's garage. I took the frame' sand blasted it then powder coated it black. I had a local upholstery shop re create the seat and sourced new hardware from a place called "king bolt". When I saved up enough I bought a 10hp Briggs and slapped a centrifugal on it. That thing was a blast all of the way until the chain snapped at top speed, wrapped around the sprocket locking the rear wheel and sent me over the handlebars. I got a concussion and still had to push the bike home with the wheel locked up. 1 big tire mark the whole way. Good times.
4:30 mark would have to be the single best peace of footage i have seen and will live rent free in the back of my mind forever
I think you need to run a tacho on each motor so you can see if they are running or not
Def need to link all 3 engines so you can time the exhaust valves for the header to work right. Then you could put the torque converter on the rear engine and that should really help like alot even with the current gearing.
Keep the great videos coming, guys. Maybe 3 fully built Tillotsons on this bike in future? Racing clutches or a torque converter. I think clutches would keep it simple. You can get a lot of off the line performance with clutches that slip the right amount.
I’m enjoying the content guys. Keep at it. Looking forward to a solid run with that thing!
70 in the 1/8th with a home-built, lawnmower powered, mini bike is respectable AF. Absolutely nothing to be ashamed of 😉👍👍
I wish your episodes were a little bit longer like an hour. you guys are that entertaining.
you are all the best 🤩 I love to watch your films are great, best regards from Europe🤩🥰🥳👍🤗😅😆😄😃🤣
Great progress video. I love seeing what the builds can do, looking forward to seeing more, this project has really grown on me! I know you guys will get it dialed, you're awesome!
Imagine if you put a gear box on this beast 🔥
Torque converters would be nice as well
Yeah, feed all 3 engines into a big snowmobile torque converter... it'll take off fast and also top end... probably 90's MPH...
Come on these guys like it a little sketchy they like it spicy dont try and make it nice and fix it for them.
@@bradpnw1897 - 3 engines with total 45 HP into a torque converter would be "SPICY" !!!
You guys are the best. Love the sound...............
I love the experimentation and thinking outside of the box!
That's what's great about you channel, explaining all the details. You'll figure it out I'm sure. Thanks
Hey guys love what yal do. You have given me hrs of great entertainment and hell I've learned many things. I do have a small suggestion and that's now that Charles has been full time for awhile I figure your website should reflect that.
I once saw a guy hard mount sprockets to the crank shafts of two engines, chain the two engines 180 degrees apart (they were two strokes) and then have the rear engine chained to a jackshaft with a clutch, you might want to try that, it’d be an interesting build, take the three engines and mount one sprocket on the front engine, And two sprockets on both rear engines, chain all the engines together timed correctly like a 3cylinder and then chain the rear to a jackshaft, maybe even figure out a way to use a torque converter on the jackshaft
Mustie1 did that on his "Think Twice" bike with 2 leafblower engines. He tied them together with a Audi timing set, if I remember right..
great stuff guys thanks, you will get it dialed in i have no doubt
Love this bike .Don't give up boys I know you'll get it to go faster. 😄
I love how they said that thing was "a little sketchy". Obviously that's experience talking right there hard learned experience. Good stuff
We have got to see it put all the power down from the start to the finish! 🙏🤗
Yeah, imagine this but with 3 torque converters! XD Nice work guys this is awesome!!!! 😆
man the effort you guys put in and this happens, I'm going to church on Sunday ill have a word with the bigfella for you
You guys will get it figured out and when you do it will be a beast. Just takes a lot of trail and error.
You guys are awesome! Thank you for the smiles!😁
LETS GOOO LOVE THE VIDEOS
Favorite channel on yt by far love the mini bike videos the most!!
oh man that thing sounds great with the 3 engines running and that burnout was epic. can't wait to see you get it tuned up better to get off the line at the strip
That burnout around 4:40 was gnarly and I'm sure it's nothing compared to what else I'll see in the remaining time 🤘🙇♂️🤘🙇♂️🤘🙇♂️
Keep up the good work, you'll get it soon enough. I enjoy the evolution of the builds.
You guys should build a mini test drag strip on the property. Even if it’s just 1/6 of a mile or something if you have the space. That would be cool!
if your having problems with clutches sticking to fast. it means the tensions on clutch plates are opening to fast that causes to stall out or weaken engine to catch rpm faster. it is a simple as cutting 2-4 spring rings and recurve a hook to each clutch each clutch spring. by doing this allows the spring to be spread open later at higher rpm than faster at start. So hammering throttle this will allow less engine bog at run jam throttle
reminder 3 engines at difference ratios so mean one has to catch faster than others. put faster better engine at the rear. so front motor keep at normal clutch springs 2 motor 2 cuts. 3 motor 3-4 cuts. use old clutches to experiment.
I just want a heart from you guys honestly
Heck Yeah was Waiting for this one, bring the Speed!
Tried hosing the clutches you have down with wd40 so they slip more initially? It works, and wears off pretty quick.
Another thing that could be happening is the fact that you’re testing on a surface like the garage floor what are the gravel where the tires are free to start spinning instantly without any trouble. On a dragstrip those tires are gonna have to speed up with the bike. And if the bike is at a dead stop the tires are gonna be at a dead stop and the engines will bog and perhaps even stall at a dead stop. Torque converters are a great option because it’s a smoother introduction of power and torque to the rear wheel. And the engine rpm doesn’t have to slow down to get the bike going as the gear ratio changes.
You guys will get it figured out I have confidence in you ! cool video though ,it’s got potential you just have to find it!👍🏼
Lol,doesn't matter what's going on, it's always fun to watch your videos.
B-Safe, lots of luv from BARRIE ONTARIO CANADA
Y'all should build a drift car. That's a project where you don't need to come up with ideas for what to build for a LONG TIME. Then after every event, you got content from filming the repairs of everything you broke. Genius.
You guys got some amazing builds I've been watching you guys since you guys was looking like teenagers so I'm glad you in the position that you're in keep it up you are my inspiration the reason why my picture has that bike on motor on it thanks for the inspiration cars and cameras
This will sound weird but are the clutches engaging at the same time? Check the weights and spring to see if they are all the same. The clutch pads being the same weight, the lighter the better. The springs all having the same tension will help. Engine idle speed is verry critical, along with wide open throttle. EVERYTHNG HAS TO MATCH!
Love your guys ride great knowledge for other people love it😁😁
Of course it will be more fun to pull start but I think you fellas can handle it!
Surely next step is 6 engines into the dragster? Lol
I think y'all should do a weekly segment called "what would a stranger do..?.. With our knowledge?" I got big plans and ideas.
Got so major potential I know you guys will knock it out of the park
That was so funny, I could feel the embarrassment from John when Ike said do you want to have a go. Awesome video though.
You guys will get it! It'll be fine! Great vid!
I agree with John that the hot cams do not have low end torque (lower than stock motors) and that a higher stall clutch is needed (4000-5000rpm). The high stall clutches may get hot, but oh well, that is how the top fuel dragsters work, they slip until they weld. I experienced the same exact thing when I was mini rod tractor pulling. We went from a stock cam to a hot cam in my Chevy engine and could not get off the line with the stock low stall torque converter in my powerglide transmission.
More complex but probably best result: drive a single larger torque converter, like the GPS 780 by all three engines. I would also consider putting sprockets on the output of each motor and having them be synchronous with a chain connecting the first and second motors and a chain connecting the second and third motors. The output of the third engine could then be used to drive the torque converter. In this case, you could effectively tune the firing timing and use the 3in1 header too.
This Old Man from Washington NC loves you guys for not giving up 👍. 2am enjoying with my coffee ☕. 🛵🧔💝💝💝
Forget the 3 into 1, nothing but lots of changes will make that work IMHO. Individual known happy exhausts and the right identical clutches and hang on! Good stuff guys!
If you drill holes through the sides of the clutch shoes you can raise the stall speed of the clutches. Lighter clutch shoes will grab at a higher RPM. Classic kart racing trick
Confused as to why it ran like crap on the strip, but around the yard it was awesome. Super strange, you guys were killing it with the work you put into it.
You can cut the spring inside the clutch. Like 2 or 3 loops and then it will have a much later engagement point. I would always do this for my mini bikes, you can rev it without moving until you gas it and it pretty much dumps the clutch in a way. Just a thought! Maybe give it a try,?
Nice one guys, Need to play catch up. Looking forward to the next one.
Y'all should put the first two engines on on direct belt drive and the second one also direct belt to third. Then clutch or torque converter to wheel. There are a few guys on a Facebook group called Brig's and Stratton for junkies, a fewer members have multiple engine set ups for tractor pulling/racing. Most of them do that set up. They mention the engines have a tendency to "fight" each other. The two belt allow slippage so engines can rev up faster. Which sounds like is going on in yalls case, fighting each other at low end.
Great video! Hope to see you at Farmington again in the future!
i have to say. that was one beautiful burnout in the shop lol
Can't wait to see what that little bike does great show gyes ✌
11:30 - lmfao, I died. woke up to WOT. Ah, thank you for that.
Keep up the the amazing work Eddie
Thanks DIRTLIFE
Put sprockets directly on the shafts of all engines locking the timing of the engines 1/3 apart in the cycle so power is evenly distributed. On the last engine install torque converter to rear wheel. Pull starting will be a little harder to pull but as soon as one fires they will all start.
This is a pure shot in the dark, but what if you ran one big ol chain through all three engines to the rear wheel? Of course, sinking the engines would be more crucial, but it's a thought that I just had.
At 15:19 dude makes an excuse to not making a pass saying he got a corn dog and need to get home. He scared of the mini bike! 🤣😂😂
I think next you should do a highly geared 3 engine diesel minibike
Great mini bike runs...but I want to see that Green slingshot dragster you had there run...hope you'll make a video of that..
The drag bike guys looking at like "what is that thing?? " cracked me up.
I really think you guys are on to something. A juggernaut you think would help tremendously. But first, use three engines the are the exact same. Alas, thanks again for another great video!
No matter what, you're good spirits will keep you going!
After changing the current set to a gear ring dedicated to starting, connect with a one-way clutch.
In parallel, connect an additional centrifugal clutch with a high speed gear ring.
This is perfect.
Brilliant video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
clutches have springs that can be changed with color coded ones for rpm setup, had racing go kart stock appearing with 4000 stall springs . Stock clutch only thing replaced was springs
Man I love that bike!
Loll. All those guys with their drag bikes.. but they were all looking at yalls 😂
I just went to go power sports... Alot cooler in person. I saw the drift trike out front, I think I'm going to have to make one haha
I think if you got some higher stall speed clutch springs/shoes tailored for the power band on *each* engine, you'd have it made. I know they're starting to make power at different rpm's especially the 196 clone and the Tillotson 212. They probably need higher stall speed to get out of the hole better (like 4000+). I think your gearing is pretty close for the most part, since they're pretty wound up when you get to the big end. Pretty cool nonetheless!😁
Do what MR GIXXER 1300r says, " The best rig for this bike would be to get rid of all three clutches, and run a chain to connect all three cranks, then put a torque converter on the engine closest to the rear wheel with a motorcycle quality 420 chain for the final drive. You will be amazed how easy it is to control your power, and keep the drive line in one piece."
Remember its 720 degrees to each power stroke, so link the engines with 12 tooth 18 or 24 tooth sprockets, then time TDC with a 240 degree rotation to the next motor and so on so that you have a proper timing of 1,2,3 or possibly 1,3,2 to the engines then torque converter at the rear tho separate from all engines and you will have to rig up an electric starter as well cause you aint going to be able to use one of the pull starters on any motor to start all 3 if you catch my drift. That way all motors have to fire and keep up. Id build the bejesus out of all 3 motors to 25hp each and blast off a 7 second run easily
11:32 the engines be like
"i sleep"
"WOAAAHH LEZGOOO"
can’t wait to see what the cvt setup will do!!
We can't always be cool 100% of the time at the track. What matters is that there's a day in the not too distant future where that pile of death trap becomes the coolest thing at the track that day
Have you thought of ditching the 3 clutches and solid sprocket all 3 engines (timed right this may help with your 3 into 1 header) and run a belt convertor on the back? Bonus is any engine that stalls should fire back up again. Downside is pull starting as you will start all engines simultaneously, just a thought
Great video. You guys are usually on dirt. So when you start off your wheels are spinning and as you're going you gain traction. You started off doing a burnout to heat up the tires and I believe you had too much traction for your horsepower. Maybe start off doing a burnout when the light turns green or don't heat up the tires before and doing a burnout when the light turns green.