Just reading through all the comments, I built a 496 with a 2 bolt block and used ARP stud kit. No issues, I bought my rotating assembly from Skipwhite performance. I’ve had great success with my combo I’m sure you will be happy with yours. 496 is a good foundation. 👍
Always use 3/4 grooved main bearings on a non-crossdrilled crankshaft to ensure optimal rod bearing oiling. Obviously, crossdrilling ensures 360 degree rod bearing oiling.
ARP main studs produce a higher clamp load on the main caps than OE bolts, and you should at a minimum torque up the main caps and check the main bores for roundness with that increased load. We line hone all blocks that get studs to make sure the main bores are still round with the increased clamp loading. Plastiguage does not check the main bores for roundness.
Love the videos you do a great job. Only suggestion would be to cut the music completely. It’s a half second blast then back to talking so really not needed. I do like how in depth you go.
I appreciate the feedback and I don't completely disagree with you either! I found with no music it was a little awkward/quiet, I think the sweet spot might be having continuous music through the video at a low enough volume it's not a distraction. Thanks for watching!
I give you an A for the effort but a C for the build. If you are doing this for a living there are a couple of things you might want to consider. First of all get a dial bore gauge. This is an essential tool for engine building. Not only for main clearances but for rods cylinder bores etc. Get one that can measure to .0001 graduations. the .0005 is not accurate enough. #2 It is not a good idea to put studs in without a line hone. Although you may get away with it. It is not worth the chance that you waste the crank. This brings me back to why you need a dial bore gauge. You not only need to measure for oil clearance but also to see if the housing bore is concentric. You would not only measure vertically but also off angle at 45 degrees. Studs have a different effect on cap and block distortion as the clamping force is completely different. Oil clearances are determined by .001 per diameter of the crankshaft. This true for mains as well as rods. Performance applications will usually require an extra .0005 of clearance. Hence the need for a dial bore gauge that can read in tenths of an inch. Hope this helps. Happy engine building BK
I appreciate the feedback BK! You will be happy to know that I do own and use a dial gauge haha, I just feel this is not the series to bore people with that info. As far as the crank, I agree with you about the distortion and clamping force although I personally believe you can get away without a line hone. I guess time will tell when I do run the engine, and I understand your view point. Thanks for watching! - Aidan
I agree about installing the caps and checking clearances with a DB gauge then checking the crank and establishing each journals clearance especially for a build like that, plasta-gauge has its purpose for a basic engine, like using a vernier compared to a good micrometer for measurement, NOT as accurate.
I hate the 2 piece rear main seals. they always leak, there is a company that makes a "1 piece" seal for 2-piece seal blocks. it comes as 1 piece, and you make on slice in it to fit it over the crank. and install it with the seam at the top of the block. the company is called GST Racing Seals. i got mine from James Engineering in Broomfield, Colorado. i use them in all my big block and small block chevy builds. I also use lube on both sides of the washer, for the pasti-gage, I spray the bearings with wd40 and them wipe them dry. it keeps the plasti-gage from sticking to the bearing when removing the caps to check clearance. i then clean everything with acetone and then lube it up with Royle Purple MAX-TUFF or the Permatex ultra slick stuff you use. when assembling an engine that is using main studs, i remove the stud prior installing or removing the crank. this avoids accidently scratching the crank on them during installation process. BBC cranks are HEAVY! and its easy scratch one of the journals when using studs if you are not super careful.
Today's dumb question comin atchya- on the rear main cap, I have a hole in it but no hole for the bearing. Is that correct? Thanks man! This 496 is my first ever build.
No such thing as a dumb question man. If you are referring to #5 with the thrust bearing that the oil pump sits on top of then that is correct. That's exciting, and good for you for taking the build on yourself, I hope it works out well for you!
@@Aidansbuilds Thanks man. I hope it goes well too. So much cash wrapped up in this undertaking. Everyone thinks I'm nuts. Prior to this my max experience was changing out an alternator. So needless to say I am SOOOOO happy/lucky to have found your videos (just today somehow)! And you aren't annoying, like 0%...which is just freakin fantastic. And miraculous. ;)
@@designsinorbit Haha yeah engines aren't cheap, ESPECIALLY big blocks! Sometimes the best way to learn somwthing is just by doing it. I'm glad you're finding my videos helpful, there are also other good videos as well as forums and even books available too. I find the community is usually pretty helpful!
@@SOU6900 as far as I can tell no BUT having said that it probably depends more on your crank and connecting rods. My block is a Mark IV as well and it has a Scat 9000 series cast crankshaft and Scat 4340 I beam connecting rods.
@Aidan's Builds I honestly wish I knew of an engine builder somewhere local that I could talk to about stuff like this since I honestly don't know Jack 😆. All I know is what you get when you punch 350 and 454 .030 over 😆.
Hello Joseph, I would say about 1/8" difference though all the studs are bottomed out with the block threads clear. Truthfully they all seem to be varied lengths a bit but I would be more concerned if the nuts did NOT go past the studs. No issue with oil pan clearance either. If I had to guess why that happened it could just be machining process from the factory.
To add to my previous comment as well, the protrusion length seems to all be the same on the driver side and all the same for the passenger side of the block. Because they're consistent leads me to believe that it's normal. Thanks for watching!
@@Aidansbuilds Did the bolts themselves check at different lengths and you put all the same length on one side? If not I'm guessing since it only varies side to side it may be the depth of the threads in the block?
Just reading through all the comments, I built a 496 with a 2 bolt block and used ARP stud kit. No issues, I bought my rotating assembly from Skipwhite performance. I’ve had great success with my combo I’m sure you will be happy with yours. 496 is a good foundation. 👍
I appreciate the comment, yeah I think I'll be okay too! The manufacturer leaves instructions with the product for a reason. Thanks for watching!
Nice big Slug of mallory metal and an additional smaller one to help balance the crank internally as 454s are externally balanced from the factory.
Always use 3/4 grooved main bearings on a non-crossdrilled crankshaft to ensure optimal rod bearing oiling. Obviously, crossdrilling ensures 360 degree rod bearing oiling.
ARP main studs produce a higher clamp load on the main caps than OE bolts, and you should at a minimum torque up the main caps and check the main bores for roundness with that increased load. We line hone all blocks that get studs to make sure the main bores are still round with the increased clamp loading. Plastiguage does not check the main bores for roundness.
Love the videos you do a great job. Only suggestion would be to cut the music completely. It’s a half second blast then back to talking so really not needed. I do like how in depth you go.
I appreciate the feedback and I don't completely disagree with you either! I found with no music it was a little awkward/quiet, I think the sweet spot might be having continuous music through the video at a low enough volume it's not a distraction. Thanks for watching!
The arp lubricant needs to be between the washer and nut to allow it to slide the area between the washer n the mains should be dry for grip
Good info, thanks for the heads up! 👍
I give you an A for the effort but a C for the build. If you are doing this for a living there are a couple of things you might want to consider. First of all get a dial bore gauge. This is an essential tool for engine building. Not only for main clearances but for rods cylinder bores etc. Get one that can measure to .0001 graduations. the .0005 is not accurate enough. #2 It is not a good idea to put studs in without a line hone. Although you may get away with it. It is not worth the chance that you waste the crank. This brings me back to why you need a dial bore gauge. You not only need to measure for oil clearance but also to see if the housing bore is concentric. You would not only measure vertically but also off angle at 45 degrees. Studs have a different effect on cap and block distortion as the clamping force is completely different.
Oil clearances are determined by .001 per diameter of the crankshaft. This true for mains as well as rods. Performance applications will usually require an extra .0005 of clearance. Hence the need for a dial bore gauge that can read in tenths of an inch.
Hope this helps. Happy engine building BK
I appreciate the feedback BK! You will be happy to know that I do own and use a dial gauge haha, I just feel this is not the series to bore people with that info.
As far as the crank, I agree with you about the distortion and clamping force although I personally believe you can get away without a line hone. I guess time will tell when I do run the engine, and I understand your view point.
Thanks for watching! - Aidan
I agree about installing the caps and checking clearances with a DB gauge then checking the crank and establishing each journals clearance especially for a build like that, plasta-gauge has its purpose for a basic engine, like using a vernier compared to a good micrometer for measurement, NOT as accurate.
Clearance is built into the bearings. You buy performance bearings based on the application.
You can tell by the squished wax, that your crank journal is flat, and ground perfect!
I hate the 2 piece rear main seals. they always leak, there is a company that makes a "1 piece" seal for 2-piece seal blocks. it comes as 1 piece, and you make on slice in it to fit it over the crank. and install it with the seam at the top of the block. the company is called GST Racing Seals. i got mine from James Engineering in Broomfield, Colorado. i use them in all my big block and small block chevy builds. I also use lube on both sides of the washer, for the pasti-gage, I spray the bearings with wd40 and them wipe them dry. it keeps the plasti-gage from sticking to the bearing when removing the caps to check clearance. i then clean everything with acetone and then lube it up with Royle Purple MAX-TUFF or the Permatex ultra slick stuff you use. when assembling an engine that is using main studs, i remove the stud prior installing or removing the crank. this avoids accidently scratching the crank on them during installation process. BBC cranks are HEAVY! and its easy scratch one of the journals when using studs if you are not super careful.
I will have to look those up and try that for my next build. Thanks for the other tips, fingers crossed this one doesn't leak!
Did you have to clearance the block with a die grinder to clear the new crank and rods?
@billskalicky5400 Nope! Crank and connecting rods had 0 clearance issues!
Today's dumb question comin atchya- on the rear main cap, I have a hole in it but no hole for the bearing. Is that correct? Thanks man! This 496 is my first ever build.
No such thing as a dumb question man. If you are referring to #5 with the thrust bearing that the oil pump sits on top of then that is correct. That's exciting, and good for you for taking the build on yourself, I hope it works out well for you!
@@Aidansbuilds Thanks man. I hope it goes well too. So much cash wrapped up in this undertaking. Everyone thinks I'm nuts. Prior to this my max experience was changing out an alternator. So needless to say I am SOOOOO happy/lucky to have found your videos (just today somehow)! And you aren't annoying, like 0%...which is just freakin fantastic. And miraculous. ;)
@@designsinorbit Haha yeah engines aren't cheap, ESPECIALLY big blocks! Sometimes the best way to learn somwthing is just by doing it. I'm glad you're finding my videos helpful, there are also other good videos as well as forums and even books available too. I find the community is usually pretty helpful!
496 stroker motor os a Ford or Mopar or Chevy?.
It's a Chevy. 454 bored .060 over.
Did you have to clearance the block for the stroker kit?
Nope, plenty of clearance as is, oil pan was good too! Thanks for watching!
@Aidan's Builds So taking a Mark IV engine from 454 to 489 shouldn't have any issues either then?
@@SOU6900 as far as I can tell no BUT having said that it probably depends more on your crank and connecting rods. My block is a Mark IV as well and it has a Scat 9000 series cast crankshaft and Scat 4340 I beam connecting rods.
@Aidan's Builds I honestly wish I knew of an engine builder somewhere local that I could talk to about stuff like this since I honestly don't know Jack 😆. All I know is what you get when you punch 350 and 454 .030 over 😆.
@@SOU6900 A lot of resources online, but it certainly helps to have someone that knows haha.
On the #1 main, what’s the difference in stud height?
Hello Joseph, I would say about 1/8" difference though all the studs are bottomed out with the block threads clear. Truthfully they all seem to be varied lengths a bit but I would be more concerned if the nuts did NOT go past the studs. No issue with oil pan clearance either. If I had to guess why that happened it could just be machining process from the factory.
@@Aidansbuilds thanks for your response. Looks great so far, can’t wait to hear it run! What’s it going in?
To add to my previous comment as well, the protrusion length seems to all be the same on the driver side and all the same for the passenger side of the block. Because they're consistent leads me to believe that it's normal. Thanks for watching!
@@Six4691 the engine will be going into a 1963 Pontiac Parisienne!
@@Aidansbuilds Did the bolts themselves check at different lengths and you put all the same length on one side? If not I'm guessing since it only varies side to side it may be the depth of the threads in the block?