Two things, 1. driving a timing sprocket on like that can damage the front of the crank or the thrust bearings in the engine. you should always use an installation tool. 2. Red Lock Tight is great stuff but requires heating the part to 500 degrees to get it to release. which will ruin the heat treating on the bolt and cam if you need to disassemble the engine for any kind of maintenance. I prefer the cam lock plates that have the folding tabs to keep the bolts from turning. just my 2 cents. I have been building Big Block Chevy engines for the last 35 years.
Great video, and thanks for sharing your journey! Speaking for myself, I would enjoy watching you rebuild outboard engines as well. I realize that the UA-cam thing is very time consuming, but thanks again!
I too was cringing. If you don’t have a crank gear - installer you could pry forward on the crank while hammering the gear to keep from increasing your thrust/ endplay. Definitely not the right way but I have gotten away with that method way back when I was without the proper tool or money to acquire the proper tool . Great job otherwise
@@fraudandcustom Yeah not going to lie certainly not ideal but it does get the job done. Believe it or not I wasn't hitting it as hard as it may look on the video which is why it took as many taps as it did to get on. I've seen some people set the thrust by blowing both ends of crank as hard as they can with a dead blow hammer. Works for them, can't say I'd ever do it myself though 😅 . Thanks for watching and the constructive criticism!
Big block Chevy needs a bronze thrust washer or a Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket with a retro fit roller cam or the back of your cam sprocket will get chewed up.
Question for ya- my timing set came with a big brass washer. I still haven't figured out what it's for and where it goes. 😮 I know, but I've never done this! 😊
Interesting, I can't truthfully say I know BUT if I had to make an educated guess I'd say it is for the outside of the crankshaft towards the timing chain cover for thrust and/or to help create a seal. Usually that is what copper washers are used for (seals, e.g. oil pan drqin plug) , I couldn't find anything when I tried to look it up.
I thought when your two timing marks were lined up on the crank and the cam gear that that was supposed to be top dead center for number one cylinder ? But in this video you said it was indicating top dead center for number 6 cylinder ? Why is there a difference ? Is it because of the big block engine compared to a small block Chevy ? I'm really curious hopefully you can answer this for ? Are your videos awesome now I just wish I had a big block to build LOL
It is TDC Number 1 as well but the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke! Basically the piston is still at the top of the cylinder BUT is not firing. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
No, but I know there are a lot of aftermarket aluminum options that are arguably better than the cast iron options. 049 and 781 casting numbers are supposedly the more desirable iron heads.
I have baked the crank gear in the past without much luck, it still needed a little bit of 'persuasion' to go on all the way lol. That was a couple of years ago now and that motor is still running well!
Two things, 1. driving a timing sprocket on like that can damage the front of the crank or the thrust bearings in the engine. you should always use an installation tool. 2. Red Lock Tight is great stuff but requires heating the part to 500 degrees to get it to release. which will ruin the heat treating on the bolt and cam if you need to disassemble the engine for any kind of maintenance. I prefer the cam lock plates that have the folding tabs to keep the bolts from turning. just my 2 cents. I have been building Big Block Chevy engines for the last 35 years.
Great video, and thanks for sharing your journey! Speaking for myself, I would enjoy watching you rebuild outboard engines as well. I realize that the UA-cam thing is very time consuming, but thanks again!
Thanks Joseph, I appreciate your support! Next video might be a boat shop episode!
Got your thrust bearing seated for sure.
😂
I too was cringing. If you don’t have a crank gear - installer you could pry forward on the crank while hammering the gear to keep from increasing your thrust/ endplay. Definitely not the right way but I have gotten away with that method way back when I was without the proper tool or money to acquire the proper tool . Great job otherwise
@@fraudandcustom Yeah not going to lie certainly not ideal but it does get the job done. Believe it or not I wasn't hitting it as hard as it may look on the video which is why it took as many taps as it did to get on. I've seen some people set the thrust by blowing both ends of crank as hard as they can with a dead blow hammer. Works for them, can't say I'd ever do it myself though 😅 . Thanks for watching and the constructive criticism!
Came along just in time.
Nice work on the build so far.
Thank you!
Big block Chevy needs a bronze thrust washer or a Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket with a retro fit roller cam or the back of your cam sprocket will get chewed up.
I have read about that, this one is a solid roller, should be fine!
Question for ya- my timing set came with a big brass washer. I still haven't figured out what it's for and where it goes. 😮 I know, but I've never done this! 😊
Interesting, I can't truthfully say I know BUT if I had to make an educated guess I'd say it is for the outside of the crankshaft towards the timing chain cover for thrust and/or to help create a seal. Usually that is what copper washers are used for (seals, e.g. oil pan drqin plug) , I couldn't find anything when I tried to look it up.
@@Aidansbuilds No problem, thanks for looking.
I thought when your two timing marks were lined up on the crank and the cam gear that that was supposed to be top dead center for number one cylinder ? But in this video you said it was indicating top dead center for number 6 cylinder ? Why is there a difference ? Is it because of the big block engine compared to a small block Chevy ? I'm really curious hopefully you can answer this for ? Are your videos awesome now I just wish I had a big block to build LOL
It is TDC Number 1 as well but the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke! Basically the piston is still at the top of the cylinder BUT is not firing. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Aidan, Do you happen to know how many iron heads and Aluminum heads are available for the 454 ? Thanks for this interesting build.
No, but I know there are a lot of aftermarket aluminum options that are arguably better than the cast iron options. 049 and 781 casting numbers are supposedly the more desirable iron heads.
I was hoping to find some person who might have a list of those iron heads as this engine will be used for Towing. Thank you@@Aidansbuilds
if you heat that timing gear your wouldnt have to beat on that crank snout
I have baked the crank gear in the past without much luck, it still needed a little bit of 'persuasion' to go on all the way lol. That was a couple of years ago now and that motor is still running well!
Poor thrust bearing