DT Swiss 240 VS 370 Hub. Everything you want to know!
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- All about DT Swiss hubs and what makes them tick, or click? Some even Buzz!
What you get when you pay more for your DT Swiss and why I love them and consider them the best big name wheel brand. - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video while sharing your knowledge with passion 😊 This world needs you more than you know
Thank you that’s very kind of you to say. 🙂
Thank you for this video. I’ve been reading the internet trying to figure out which wheels to buy next. Now I know.
Glad I could help! Safe riding!
Thank you for showing and explaining all the details. Also, the important objects are in focus and there is no music, which makes it pleasant to watch.
Thank you very much! Yes I hate videos that have loud music over people talking! Why do they do that?
Thank you and safe riding! ❤️
Great video, thank you! Well explained and shown. I have several DT wheels for my EMTBs with both the 350 and 240 hubs and I love them.
A friend damaged the stock Roval wheel that came with my Specialized EMTB by putting too much torque through it in Turbo mode in a high gear up a hill. He not only snapped the chain but knackered one of the pawls completely so the hub skipped under any load.
Good luck doing the same thing with a DT Swiss ratchet hub. And even if you somehow managed it, it would be cheap repair of just the ratchet.
I also love how easy they are to service (literally 5 minutes) and to quieten down - Just be a bit liberal with the grease and they're silent. :-)
Thank you! 🙂🙏🏻
Some really useful information
There are two DT Swiss factories in Europe one in Switzerland and the other in Poland : ) I use DT Swiss wheels only, super reliable and top quality!
Yes they do make very nice stuff, been a fan ever since I became a mechanic, they just seem better made than other wheels. All my DT wheels come from the factory in Taiwan.
Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Very interesting and informative video, nice job sir. You've got a new subscriber.
It is a pleasure to have you here. Thank you.
Really loved this video! I love DT Swiss and still learned a ton! You should mention that an upgrade kit is available for the 3pawl to the ratchet system.. but beware you need to find a shop(like yours!) to swap the ring nuts unless you want to buy some specialized tools
That’s correct and the tools are very expensive and hard to get! But… I hear you can get some fake ones on Aliexpress… for a one time use home mechanic it’s probably fine.
Thanks for your comment, do please subscribe! 😍
Can you tell me time code so i can see what ring do you mean and how did he take it off, did he show it on video ?
Always been a loyal fan of Zipp of Indianapolis 💪 but I recently bought a DT Swiss PRC 1400 Spline 65mm wheelset and PR 1400 DICUT 25mm wheelset. Very good so far.
Wow Big Bucks! Excellent choice
Dt Swiss is how every company should be. Everything is as simple as possible, while still having great performance. It's easily serviceable and reliable (besides a few exceptions 240s caugh). You do pay a small premium, but it's reasonable.
I would mostly agree on that, however the new EXP hub is a bit of a pain. We already had a recall on it and replaced some parts because some customers (not in Brunei) were having failures! 🫣
Apart from that they have been consistently good for decades in general.
@@reginaldscot165 someone said check the 3 digit batch code on the EXP hub, if the middle digit is 1 it's the updated version. Have you found this to be correct?
Having to remove the drive ring to replace the hub bearings is a ballache though
@@Adam-vm8kp true
Great detailed video clarifying the difference between the 3-pawl vs ratchet systems. Finally I get it!! I have a DT 370 hub with 3 pawls and 24 teeth inside that I want to use on a bike with Sram XDR. It looks like the only pawl->ratchet upgrade kit for XDR has only 18 teeth which will presumably give me a larger engagement angle and more slop than the one I currently have (18 vs 24), is that correct? Would you consider this an upgrade or backwards step; would I also need to buy a 36 or 54 teeth upgrade kit to properly benefit?
It’s a step in the right direction for sure, you will feel a difference in the engagement speed and it’s just a better system in my opinion. However the 370 is a good hub and it’s not a necessary upgrade to change it. It depends on your budget and if you think you need it. Yes the engagement is better, but you only feel it if you stop peddling often? If you are always on the power you won’t notice. So if you do long highway or country lane rides it’s probably not needed. If you do racing, Crit, hills, or cycling in the city then it might be worth it. 🙂👍🏻
Thank you very much, Reginald Scot!
This video is exactly what I was searching for. I need a new pair of wheels and the decision is very tough. Either buying used and pricier pr 1400 or a new pair of p1800s and upgrading to the 36T ratchet system, wich still would be cheaper.
I would like to read your opinion.
Thank you in advance.
You are very welcome Sir!
Well, that’s a difficult one? It depends what you want to do with them. The 1800s are more robust and the 1400s are a bit lighter. So if it’s for anything other than a climbing, racing or lightweight bike then go 1800s as they will be a more reliable companion long term.
Thanks for watching and I hope you subscribe for more! 🙏🏻
it's a pity that such an interesting video only gets so few views 🥺
Ha ha, I hear that a lot! But it’s obviously a problem with my style or presentation. I will hopefully lean from my mistakes and make better/more popular videos in the future. 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 Nothing wrong with your style or presentation, blame on the YT algorythm
Good video. In the past, I also painted scratches on aluminum parts, but now I'm using Aluminum Black, which gives a nice matt texture and doesn't wear off so lightly like the paint does. I would like to see this kind of video about dt swiss conversion kits and upgradability.
Thank you! That’s a good idea. 🙂👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 Do you know, can I convert the 370 non boost hub from 15 x 100 mm to 20 x 110 mm non boost? Can this be made with adapters from 240 hub, the hub bodies look pretty much the same? Or is this no go?
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I just picked up a used Syncros rear wheel for $AUD 30 (says it's made by DT swiss on the rim). I suspect it has the pawl freehub but I'll find out when I get around to servicing it.
Excellent. Yes they use DT Swiss parts 👍🏻
Hi thanks for the video. I’m in the process of building a wheel set .. and. Was considering dt Swiss 240 EXP vs DT Swiss 350. I’ve heard some chatter regarding the new dt 240 exp being not so great.
What are your thoughts, have you run into any trouble with the new hub via your customers etc. If so should I just stick with the 350?
Thanks.
Get the standard 240s! With the 2 moving ratchets. Avoid the EXP at all costs!
Very informative video :) 2 questions if u :
- I replaced my OEM fulcrum wheels recently with the P1800s and had 2 major problems: the rear brakes were consistently squealing, and the front wheel was intensively pulsing on brake application. DT Swiss rep advised the wheel's trueness is in tolerable levels, and that i should replace pads (had the standard ones from Shimano for alloy). I went with his proposal of Swisstop and indeed the squealing stopped, but the pulsing is still there, but admittedly decreased a lot. Your experience with pads for these wheels? Pretty weird to me that Shimano pads are effectively "incompatible" with these wheels (i used 2 sets of same pads, my old and brand new ones, results were the same) and DT Swiss havent issued a recommendation for using certain pads with their wheels.
- The hub is pretty noisy and i suspect it needs greasing (bought the wheels last year, but only 1 month installed on bike, not sure if there was grease or the grease .. evaporated or w/e). Is it OK to use a generic bike "Calcium-based yellow fluorescent grease" that i currently have? i plan to order the DTswiss but can take 1 month to arrive.
Ok so quick answers! 😁
No you don’t need the special grease for the P1800s only for the Ratchet hubs! Any grease will do, just don’t put too much… and yes they (1800s) are louder than the other wheels. It’s normal.
As for shimano pads. I have been using them on my P1800s and 1400s for years without any noise or vibration issues.
However, I would recommend switching to a softer pad (like BBB) because they don’t wear the rims as fast as shimano pads! The Shimano are very hard and really strip the surface as the DT rims are softer for better braking.
Also, if you are getting vibration when braking, it’s the brakes not the rim that is the issue. Perhaps the braking surface on the fulcrum wheels was less grippy and was allowing the rim to slip more easily reducing the on/off grabbing that causes noise and vibrations? But I’d definitely check for movement in your Brake callipers!
Hope that helps!
@@reginaldscot165 thank you for your time and insights :)
i will proceed to open the hub and inspect/regrease if needed.
I am jealous - and buffled - to hear that your P1800s work fine with the Shimano pads, i dont know what to say. My theory agrees with what you said that "fulcrum wheels was less grippy and was allowing the rim to slip more easily reducing the on/off grabbing that causes noise and vibrations", maybe those grooves the P1800s have on the track surface is the culprit for my problem.
All in all, unfortunately, i cant say that i am satisfied with this wheel upgrade i did, but will keep on riding them and hope for the best!
I recently purchases the dt swiss 1400 dicut-oxic rim with this tip of hub. I wonder if the rings are made of different material (titanium or other top of alloy) would the sound be very different ...
Probably, and the the rate of degradation also… 🙃
Very educational! I’m looking to upgrade to a second hand pair of DT Swiss GRC 1650 (DT370 hubs), but I have a Campagnolo Ekar groupset. Any idea if DT Swiss is making a compatible N3W adapter? Thx!
I believe they do buy getting it might be difficult. Obviously best place to look is online or contact you local DT dealer to see if they can order it for you.
Thanks for watching!
@@reginaldscot165 Yes… rainy day yesterday so lots of UA-cam time. There’s a 3 pal to ratchet conversion kit for every type of cassette, except N3W, so I need an extra adapter in addition to that conversion kit. Didn’t come across a 3 pal N3W kit yet…
Does 370 hub by default come with steel or aluminum freehub body ?
Hi Reginald! Do you know if there is another rim on the market like the HED Ardennes with 21mm inner width? Thanks!!
Hi! I can’t say I do, I don’t normally use something so wide. 🙂
Hey, thanks for sharing this video. Almost 3 years ago I purchased the P1800 wheelset. After about 2,000 miles my rear rim cracked in about 4 different places near the spoke holes, so the rear wheel was warrantied then after around 1,000 miles the new rim cracked at 2 spoke holes and one of the spokes pulled out of the rim. What would a better and stronger DT Swiss rim to go with that would be as light or lighter? And to let you know I am a bike mechanic and I had checked the spoke tension and the tension on each spoke was right on before both rims failed. Also, I live at the base of the mountains, so I ride on steep mountain roads for most my rides. Thank you.
I have no idea, the P1800 seems like a very robust option to me. If you go lighter the wheel won’t be as strong. Honestly I never heard of that, it sold plenty of DT wheels over the years and never seen one crack so far? 🤷🏻♂️
Sorry I can’t be more help?
@@reginaldscot165 Thanks for your response. Yeah, I can't believe I've cracked 2 of the P1800 rear wheels. For some reason I have cracked every aluminum rear wheel I've had since about 2012. I ride on a lot of very steep and very long climbs. The only wheelset I never cracked was an Ultegra rear wheel. I ended up with about 30,000 miles. I finally wore the brake surface out then I thought I'd give the P1800's a try. I recently purchased some Bontrager carbon fiber wheels. The only thing I don't like about them is the brake surface because they don't have the stopping power the aluminum wheels have. Also, I have a Trek 1120, it's a bikepacking bike and after about 1,000 miles I cracked that rear rim. Not sure what to do about that. I check all my wheels for spoke tension quite a bit. I do pedal with a lot of power. Hoping someday to find out what wheels work best for me. Also, it is getting harder to find wheels for rim braked bikes. Also, want to get a gravel/road bike with disc brakes and see if carbon fiber wheels will be better for me. Well anyway, happy riding!
I just got a set of DT Swiss Xrc 1501 Spline One (29 inches mtb wheels) (carbon fiber rims), them have 240 hubs. And straight pull spokes are just much better 💪🏻
I also have a pair of XRC 1650, love the sound of that ratchet system freehub body
Lovely 🥰
I'm on DT Swiss 1501 Alu Xrh thinking of moving to carbon - is it worth it?
If I have 370s (3 Pawl) on the back and front, would I have to swap out rims and hubs entirely? I am actually interested in the 180s, but I find them too expensive. I also want to change my brake disc mount from six screws to a center clamp. Putting the cost aside, any recommendations? Thanks!! I have seen a pair of rims Swiss 1900 with a 350 Hub. My intent is to work on my own bike due to the overall expense of maintaining a bike year in and year out and want the bike components to be "somewhat easy" to install and or remove.
For home maintenance DT are a mixed bag, for basic services they are very easy but if you need to do a bearing replacement in the rear hub you will need Specific and expensive DT Swiss tools.
For the 3 pawl it can be converted, but the kits are hard to get and again you will need 2 special DT Swiss tools. So maybe a bike shop is the best option?
If money is no object I’d always go for original 240s (not the new EXP and not anything with ceramic bearings.)
I've got DT350 hubs with star ratchet (not sure how many teeth?) on my E-MTB wheels which are E512 rims and only 25mm internal width, these came with the bike. I got a pair of ridiculously cheap in a sale (£45 new each) H1900 wheels(35mm internal) as I wanted to go to 2.6/2.8" tyres and these have the 3 pawl system.... Could I swap over the freehubs if I buy the tools- looks like I need to get one for each and that will be around £120?
Short answer is yes, depending on how good you are at doing your own stuff at home? You definitely will need a strong work table and a sturdy vice for this job.
@@reginaldscot165 Thanks for the reply- yeah I do the spannering for about 60 bikes where I work(outdoors centre- hefty bike abuse as nobody pays for any damage!!) and there's a decent bench vice there, makes me wonder with the extra(additional) torque kicked out by the motor just how this may affect how tight each of these rings may be? IE- could be a disastrous false economy buying a "fake" one off Ebay....
how do you remove water from the rims following a soaking during the monsoon season? do the wheels dry out even without holes?
No they stay wet, and your nipple get completely corroded. Sometimes I spray a bit of WD40 in there to drive out any moisture. If they are full of water I take the tyre off and give them a good shake over the valve hole! 😂
Do you know how many degrees of engagement the 3 pawl hub has?
Degrees? As in the angle of the teeth? No sorry I can’t say I do.
Thanks for the interesting and useful video. I have a question: I noticed signs of cassette damage on the freehub bodies; do you find that this becomes a problem and if so can you suggest how to minimise it?
The DT body is soft as it’s made from a lightweight Aluminium. You will notice the newer wheel (P1800) has less cassette bite. This is because previously I didn’t tighten the cassette enough on the older wheels.
I find if you get it nice and tight there is minimal Issue, you can remove any burs with a file when servicing the wheels and if after many years it becomes a problem you can just replace the body. But I don’t see myself doing that any time soon and I have had one set for 4 years already.
To be honest it would be nice if they would add one strip of steel on the hub just to prevent the bite, but that would add to the claimed weight.
Another fantastic video of yours that I discovered too late-hope you still have the bandwidth to answer this tardy question: have you experienced the “ghost pedaling” phenomenon with these DT Swiss wheels? I have their 240 hubs on both my road and mountain bikes, and since new (2020) have noticed ghost pedaling whenever either bike is freewheeling in my work stand. It makes me think the hubs may not have been machined properly and are somehow crushing the bearings and creating drag. Would love to hear your thoughts!
Hi, thanks! 😍
What do you mean by “ghost pedalling?” You mean when you spinning the wheels in a bike stand the pedals keep spinning?
Me no I have not experienced anything I can describe as that? Sorry I wasn’t more help. Perhaps you can elaborate. 🙂👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 Correct--After hand cranking and getting the wheels to spin at reasonably high RPMs (e.g. 200+), you stop cranking to hear that lovely DT Swiss ratchet freewheel sound, but the crank (and pedals and chain) continue to rotate as if a ghost was pedaling. Oddly it only happens when in the smallest two cogs (e.g. 11T and 12T). So annoying and not cured after regular cleaning and re-lube. One person on a forum theorized that it will occur if the bearing drag in the rear wheels exceeds the bearing drag in the bottom bracket. And thanks in advance for your reply!!!
I saw something about this just recently & the issue was an incorrect installation after servicing. The ratcheting worked perfectly until, it was placed under load by the tensioning of the skewer. Needless to say, the parts must be returned in their correct orientation.
I've owned all the major brands. I agree about avoiding Mavic, however cup and cone bearings are the best. Adjustable bearing preload is better than no bearing preload. DT Swiss does not have bearing preload. Is it super important? Probably not, but having preload provides more control over bearing drag and longevity.
I agree with you to some extent. I think the cartridge bearings system is better for maintenance, if the hub is well made and the bearings are high quality then it’s a fantastic system and allows you to choose and replace when you like. Shimano style hubs are more restricted and the newer types although being smooth do suffer from that fact the preload is set by teeth. (Makes it a bit more idiot proof?) I can see pros and cons to both systems. But I would personally choose cartridge over cup and come in the end.
Great comment! And thanks for the view.
How's this wheel stack up to the DA C24 wh-9100
To be general about it:
Shimano wheels are normally cheaper.
They have old fashioned bearing systems, but they are very smooth and reliable.
It will probably be heavier and the hub is normally less advanced.
But, Shimano would be my second choice behind DT Swiss as they do make excellent quality wheels.
Does 370 hub by default come with steel or aluminum freehub body ?
Aluminium. 👍🏻
If I put a 10-speed cassette on the 370 hub of the dt Swiss wheels, using a 1.85 mm ring, it would work? Would I need to adjust the rear derailleur? Thanks.
If it’s a 10 speed cassette it will work fine with a spacer. As for the FD, if it’s also 10 speed it shouldn’t need to be adjusted, assuming it’s correct in the first place. 🙂👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 thanks for the info. Well explained video. You took your time over the video.
Just got a sb115 and the DT swiss 370 sound muted is it because of the grease and not oil? Its low pitch. I also feel vibrations from chain stay if I put my left hand on it and right hand lifting up the saddle.
Open the hub and check, maybe too much grease or maybe dirty? Or if it’s new it might be just fine. 🙂
Vibration is normal on bikes to some extent, hard to say on here where it’s coming from.
Try you local Independent bike shop for some assistance. 🙂👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 new 2022 Yeti sb115 and some reddit members do say its quiet since its Ratchet LN 18t and need like 54t to make it louder.
The vibrations is very slight maybe its too new. Lol
I was trying to convert my dr swiss hub from 3-pawl to ratchet where one of the steps is to remove that ring from the hub. I have the universal tool used to install/remove the ring from the hub. Unfortunately, it doesn't matter how much pressure I apply to the key I can't unscrew that ring from the hub. Does that mean the ring got seized to the body of the hub and I will get stuck with 3-pawl hub or there is a trick to remove it?
It’s a very hard item to remove. Get the tool in a vice and get a friend to help, but make sure you are turning in the right direction! If the wheel is upside down in the vice turn towards your left hand.
If that fails you need to fix a large level to your wheel. But be careful not to damage the rim or spokes.
You can also heat up the ring/hub so that it makes removal easier.
My dream standard wheels have Mavic hubs with DT rims and spokes. I've seen my share of Fulcrum hubs rusting out in 1000km and bearings being busted out of the box, even on a Campag one. Premium Shimanos seem to get water in sometimes as well (volume?), but I've only seen one Mavic hub with any problems at all. There were a bunch of cyclocross bikes with Mavic wheels sold from where I worked and all the hubs had bearings like new every time they came to service no matter how many years the client had thrashed the bike in mud.
Why not full Mavic wheels then? Well, I disliked the rims a lot. They never held tension well and never seemed to be straight when evened out in tension.
My problem with DT hubs are mostly the threaded ratchet rings. They are a complete wild card when it comes to how long it takes to remove one in a hub service. Sometimes you just undo it, but rarely. More often you need to heat it up, but the worst thing is the tool to remove them is just not up to the task of withstanding the torque required. They just break in the vise when the ring is tight enough.
Another thing with giving a client a DT hub is that if they tighten the QR/TA a bit too much something about the bearings gives in and they suddenly have a lot of friction when turning. You can give the axle some taps with a hammer to fix it, but it seems it happens more easily after that. I've seen it with similar hub designs as well.
I am not a fan of the basic Mavic hubs, maybe the ones that are like the DT 240 copy are ok? If you are having problems with the star ratchet ring removal, try putting the tool in the vice, then the wheel in the tool and then tie a long bar to the wheel. It make removal very easy. Obviously you need a good vice, I broke 2 cheap Chinese ones before I learned my lesson and got something better. 😁
@@reginaldscot165 Yeah I broke the DT tool. Cracked in the vise. I filled the unnecessary axle hole off the next one to make it sturdier.
I've been using DT Swiss hubs on a serious commuter bike in all weather for 6 years. The hubs are brilliant except for one major issue: the splined shell is aluminum which is much softer than the hardened steel cogs that sit on it. The wheels, while not DT Swiss, also use aluminum nipples which corroded within the first few years of ownership due to road salt. I can't get the nipples off and replace them with brass ones because, even with the DT Swiss bladed spoke holder tool, the nipples are so tightly bonded to the spokes that the spokes will just wind up. It seems like the modern wheelsets are strong enough to stay true and not break spokes but the aluminum nipples and cassette bodies do not hold up over time.
Yes unfortunately in the pursuit of weight saving we have the issues that come with aluminium. To reduce bite on the hub make sure the cassette lock ring is as tight as possible and you use a good quality cassette. Yes once those nipples are corroded in normal methods won’t move them. Try chemicals and heat. If that doesn’t work you will need to find a good wheel builder who can replace the nipples and spokes. Brass is better, but if you get aluminium ones again just remember to lube your nipples every now and again. That’s a sentence that looks strange out of context!
Thank you for your comment!
Try some derusting fluid on them. This way work wonders. Or just snip the spokes.
@@rosomak8244 Penetrating oil did nothing to help. Only the nipples need replacing. If I cut out the expensive bladed spokes, might as well build new wheels replacing the rims with ones that are not tubeless compatible, i.e. easier to work with.
Many mavic hubs use steel. Changing a cassette is a breeze. With alu your in Forza flight.
Can you upgrade them to steel free bodies?
I don’t think so. You would have to contact DT.
Also, steel would be considered a “downgrade” for performance wheels. If you want steel hubs they are offered by cheaper Brand’s than DT.
How much engagement do you have?
Mine is 36.
Very informative. However I can't believe that the 370 3-pawl design is ok, since DT Swiss doesn't make it that way any more. They use Ratchet LN now, however per message from them today (2/2/23), they've only used it in mountain bike wheels so far. Meaning, that any new road wheels out there at present, must be the 3-pawl. Even so, I can get the P1800/370 (3 pawl) set for under $300 US right now and it seems too good to pass up. Or, PR1600/350 (ratchet) for under $400. I am not crazy about the idea of needing to maintain (clean and grease) the ratchets, however. I ride on clean roads in a dry climate and I don't wanna do hub maintenance.
Well, the answer to that is, if you want to look after your bike equipment, unless you pay someone to do it, you need to do maintenance whatever you buy. 🙂
Whatever hub you buy will need to be cleaned and re-greased. If you want to be good every 6 months, if you don’t every year minimum. 👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 Let me try again. Years back I had some Mavic wheels with the stupid freehub bushing that REQUIRED service every 2000 miles or less. If you didn't, it would squeal like a little girl. Well nobody told me about that and I found out the hard way. That's what I want to avoid. Would you say that the DT hubs "require" such frequent maintenance? Among my road cycling crowd, I just don't know of anyone that has hub maintenance done regularly if ever. But I will start looking for folks with DT Swiss and ask them about it.
Not sure that 52T ratchet it an upgrade. Contact area is small and much easier to strip teeth or slip ratchets, Love the system but I think it's also worth mentioning how tricky it is to replace drive side bearings. Special tool required to remove ring and it can be super hard to remove.
Non of my customers as of yet have had any issues with the 54T… the only bad experiences I’ve heard is from people that bought fake ones online from Aliexpress. I think you can get really crazy ones like 62T of something equally as bonkers! Yes the star nut removal can be very difficult… unless you know the tricks of the trade. 😉
Can you tell me time code so i can see what ring do you mean and how did he take it off, did he show it on video ?
aluminium 370 vs aluminium 240, worth the upgrade?
I bought the DT SWISS P 1800 SPLINE 23 wheelset and now I'm thinking of returning them (never mounted them) and buying used carbon wheels with 240...
Very much depends on what you are doing? If you just ride for fun or long distance then the P1800s are an excellent choice for the long term.
If you plan to race? Well then maybe (depending on the condition of the wheels?) the carbon 240s is the better option.
@@reginaldscot165 I see! Thanks a lot
Interesting, why would a DT Swiss ratchet freehub be superior to a pawl type freehub in a road application? Engagement points are a non issue on the road and freewheeling is less efficient. There are also hubs which use bigger bearings and reliable/non proprietary J bend spokes, like the Miche Primato hubs for example.
I prefer straight pull personally, it makes wheel building faster and it makes sense from an mechanical perspective. If you have never ridden a DT ratchet hub I recommend you try, then you will understand what all the fuss is about! Ha ha. I have a few customers asking to put DT hubs on everything after they try a 36T or 52T.
Mechanistically, a 18T Ratchet is stronger compared to a 54T. Mavic reserve less teeth for MTB for this reason
My good sir... try primer on your quick release... I believe there is specific primer for aluminum... it will ensure the paint adheres, you don't need to keep painting it.
If I can get my hands on it here in Brunei? We are somewhat limited. 😁👍🏻
If I can get my hands on it here in Brunei? We are somewhat limited. 😁👍🏻 Thank you!
Indeed... DTSwiss are incredible... nothing else comes close. High end? Sure they are... but I call them high quality, the highest and most durable.
Super agreed! 👍🏻
What is "waterproof grease"? Isnt every grease waterproof? 🤔
It’s grease that says “waterproof grease” on the pot. 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 SRAM has DOT grease. I assume that it sucks in moisture like DOT does.
DT Swiss needs to up the POE. Otherwise great design. Cheap too.
POE? Point of embarkation? Point of entry? Private owned enterprises? 🤷🏻♂️
Sorry 😅 I don’t do abbreviations very well.
@@reginaldscot165 points of engagement
you really shouldnt use any other grease it really is special
👍🏻
Exchange compressing forces on paws for sheering forces on ratchet tooths. Loose the increased number of engagement angles due to lack of paw offsets. Pay through your nose for basic CNC laying. The biggest joke is the special grease where any heavy duty machine grease will do just fine. No thanks.
You sound like you can make your own better! 😁👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 If you think that DT-swiss are making their own bearings you are as delusional as the guys who think that swiss watches are made by hand by some old guy in the alps. It's all from china.
1100 USD for 1 wheel ? 😅 I do hope they last,... It seems I hear a lot of good but everything is almost new,...
1 wheel set, 2 wheels front and rear and some other extra parts and bits. Yes it’s not cheap, but to some extent you get what you pay for. Had the PR1400s for at least 4 years and they are still fine. 🙂👍🏻
With all due respect. 32.55 "Nothing on the market that meets their quality" 🤔. Fortunately you added that get out clause "in my opinion".
If I may be so bold as to expand that opinion.... Hope Pro4 hubs built on 30+ years of manufacturing hubs. 6 pawls, 44 to 108 points of engagement, 20 to 30 percent cheaper than other high-end options.
Never been overly impressed by hope, they seem like solid hubs. But not sexy like a nice 240 😅
Expensive? Define expensive. I mean, only a rich man can afford cheap wheels... but a prudent man will buy quality, and do so only once.
Agreed! 👍🏻
Interesting content, teaching others about how the hubs are designed is great 👍😀 … but seriously, dude, your camera work is truly woeful, and too much pfaffing and verbiage,… man, you could talk the leg off a chair 🙄… you need to improve your camera work, and be concise in what you communicate to your audience. 2 stars out of five 🤔
Thanks for the constructive criticism. 👍🏻
Why not see one of my more recent videos to see if my camera work has improved? Can you be more specific?
Also, yes I talk a lot but that’s my personality and some people view because they like it, so I probably won’t change that aspect. 😁
Lots of bad information and poor care with these wheels... Sad to see videos like this and fortunately they are rare. J bend spokes are no weaker than straight pull spokes but easier to replace. Too much grease on the palls, which will lead to slippage, and sloppy handling of his wheels- he has all this grease on his gloves and then wipes it all over his tires and rim brake surface. Think, man! Then we can see that on both rear hubs, there are gnars where the cassette rings dug and damaged because he did not take care to tighten properly- he even admits this. I am not here to trash this poor fellow, but keep crappy mechanics like this off the web, please. Might keep a small bike shop going, but terrible mechanic. Any really good mechanic constantly thinks about what they are doing and why- not here.
That said, I do love DT swiss hubs- not so much the rims, but they are certainly robust enough to handle this dudes mistakes. Look elsewhere for actual expertise.
Well 23k views and this is the first seriously negative comment. So at least this sort of “opinion” is in the minority. Did you get out the wrong side of the bed this morning buddy? 😂
Ok let’s address this all. Firstly if you actually pay attention I didn’t say j bend are weaker or less strong. In theory they are, but I talked about tension. I checked around and didn’t see any testing to see what’s strongest but most spokes snap in the middle not on the ends. The only fact is it’s basic engineering that if you put a bend in something it’s going to act differently from a straight bar and potentially have more give in it.
I watched the video carefully again and didn’t see any grease on my braking surfaces. I think you misinterpreted this to be a service video for some reason? It was just me showing the wheels and after this I have something called a cloth or paper towel I can use to magically remove anything from the rim. 🤩
It’s actually how mechanics do it. (Do you have any experience in working in a bike shop?) We don’t work in a lab environment and it wouldn’t be practical to put new gloves on every time we touch something. So what normally happens when I’m servicing bikes I wipe my hands on a rage between parts of the service and after I’m done I wipe down the bike or component. So basically don’t overreact and don’t worry! 😅
As for “too much grease on the hub.” How much is too much? Most wheels from the factory come woefully under-greased. And in all the years I’ve been doing this and the 5 years I’ve had these wheels the hub has never slipped. The grease I use is not thick, it’s easily pushed aside by the springs and pawls. Again, you are overreacting.
As for the cassette bite, yes I said I needed to tighten my cassette more, but the reality is that’s not the reason for the cassette bite. I have other hubs i have had for 15 years without any bite, how is that if I’m not tightening them correctly? The answer is the DT hub is very soft aluminium. This is proven by the fact that in the DT service manual they show you how to file the burs off the hub and recommend replacing it after the bite gets too bad. Basically this sort of lightweight hub body is not made to last. It’s not a reflection on my performance as a mechanic. But I forgive you your ignorance. 😉
All the best and safe riding. 🙂👍🏻