Hi George. I wish I would have watched this first. Cleaning the rust off on both ends of shaft is an excellent plan before trying get the end covers off as mine stuck on the shaft rust. My grinder is similar type and same vintage. Great how you used the sockets, extension & vise for installing. I started out using a sockets to remove the bearing but was able to tap out. From Parkland County Alberta. Thank you!
Very true! I have learned that the hard way, but sometimes still make the same mistake now. Wire brushes are the worst as far as vibrations and it seems that the fiber wheels are right behind them. Thanks for stopping in today.
Great repair George... I to scavenge parts all the time it's a great time safer not having to run to the store. My main grinder is a 30+ yrs old sears craftsman 1 HP two phase man they are not cheap today paid $10 for it works like new today.
I have a big bench grinder like you refer to that I bought for $5 just because the guy was wanting to clean out his barn before he tore it down. I also got a neat old vintage disc sander that runs smoother than most new ones. Thanks for stopping by.
Great fix George. It was nice that you had the right bearing in your hoard. I have an old Dayton grinder that is getting pretty crunchy, and my old Craftsman angle grinder is getting noisy too. I guess I better get busy and do some bearing swaps.
I have always saved things like bearings just because they seem to come in handy, especially when you'd like to fix it now and not wait a week for it to come in the mail and also great for fabricating things...like on the Goofy Cart. Thanks Matt.
There’s a few reasons budget priced and even some expensive grinders vibrate when the wheels are on but smooth when bare. The shoulder the flange rides on is less than 1mm, giving it no real surface to press against. Also the flanges are stamped steel opposed to machined steel or aluminum flanges that are balanced and fit the shaft more snuggly. You can get it to run smoother by buying some old used, machined flanges of the same size but from a more expensive grinder. Also take the guards off the wire wheel side. Great video!
Just did this to mine. I found using some fender washers and screwing them into the end caps where the wheel guards screw on make enough of a ledge to put a gear puller on it. Put the forcing screw on the rotor shaft a tighten it down. Worked well
Not hardly. I started as an auto tech in the early 70s and bought this grinder several years later when I opened my first shop. It and the bench vise were "necessary" purchases. Thanks Paul
Nice job. I've had a few of these apat over the years and found the best way to remove the end caps is to take the screws out tap the end of the shaft on both sides and the caps will come right off. No need to drive a chisel to separate them from the housing.
It doesn't get hot at all during use. It starts and runs fine still after all these years. It was mainly the dust that got into the bearing that caused it's failure. With the new sealed bearings it should last the rest of my lifetime with no problems. Yes, the windings are all original. Thanks for stopping by
Hi George. I wish I would have watched this first. Cleaning the rust off on both ends of shaft is an excellent plan before trying get the end covers off as mine stuck on the shaft rust. My grinder is similar type and same vintage. Great how you used the sockets, extension & vise for installing. I started out using a sockets to remove the bearing but was able to tap out. From Parkland County Alberta. Thank you!
Thanks for taking a look and for the kind comments.
Great job George, I need to replace the bearing in my buffer too.
It should be a similar setup, I'd think. Have fun! Thanks for stopping by.
You did a great job on the bearing replacement. This video should help anyone that doesn't know how to replace a bearing in a bench grinder.
Thank you for the encouragement, Bob
Grinder wheels and brushes are often out of round/balance usually related to their cost. Good job, George!
Very true! I have learned that the hard way, but sometimes still make the same mistake now. Wire brushes are the worst as far as vibrations and it seems that the fiber wheels are right behind them. Thanks for stopping in today.
Good job, most people would go out and buy a new one.nice to see it fixed
Thanks Dean. It's definitely worth fixing and it should out last me now.
Great repair George... I to scavenge parts all the time it's a great time safer not having to run to the store. My main grinder is a 30+ yrs old sears craftsman 1 HP two phase man they are not cheap today paid $10 for it works like new today.
I have a big bench grinder like you refer to that I bought for $5 just because the guy was wanting to clean out his barn before he tore it down. I also got a neat old vintage disc sander that runs smoother than most new ones. Thanks for stopping by.
Great fix George. It was nice that you had the right bearing in your hoard. I have an old Dayton grinder that is getting pretty crunchy, and my old Craftsman angle grinder is getting noisy too. I guess I better get busy and do some bearing swaps.
I have always saved things like bearings just because they seem to come in handy, especially when you'd like to fix it now and not wait a week for it to come in the mail and also great for fabricating things...like on the Goofy Cart. Thanks Matt.
Thanks for sharing George! I have one I need to fix.
It's not as difficult as I imagined it to be. You can do it! Thanks for stopping by.
There’s a few reasons budget priced and even some expensive grinders vibrate when the wheels are on but smooth when bare. The shoulder the flange rides on is less than 1mm, giving it no real surface to press against. Also the flanges are stamped steel opposed to machined steel or aluminum flanges that are balanced and fit the shaft more snuggly. You can get it to run smoother by buying some old used, machined flanges of the same size but from a more expensive grinder. Also take the guards off the wire wheel side. Great video!
Thanks for the observations and for stopping by the shop today.
Just did this to mine. I found using some fender washers and screwing them into the end caps where the wheel guards screw on make enough of a ledge to put a gear puller on it. Put the forcing screw on the rotor shaft a tighten it down. Worked well
Thanks for sharing your technique and looking at my project.
Nice work George
Thank you Tom.
yes sir George you got it a whole lot better, enjoyed the video thank you
Thanks for following along with me.
Hello George,
Nicely done....I thought you would have been to young to have owned the bench grinder for 50 years,,,,
Take care.
Paul,,
Not hardly. I started as an auto tech in the early 70s and bought this grinder several years later when I opened my first shop. It and the bench vise were "necessary" purchases. Thanks Paul
Nice job. I've had a few of these apat over the years and found the best way to remove the end caps is to take the screws out tap the end of the shaft on both sides and the caps will come right off. No need to drive a chisel to separate them from the housing.
Thanks for sharing the tip.
Great work
Thank you Moe.
Nice fix there George ! Old tools are better .. A new one bought today would prob not last 50 years
You got that right! Thanks Shawn
Cool
Yeah man! Thanks Terry
Awesome
Thank you Micah.
Cool bench grinder George what brand bench grinder is it
Not sure of the brand as the label is mostly gone now. Thanks for stopping by.
Hi. How hot does it get during heavy wire brushing? Are the windings still original?
It doesn't get hot at all during use. It starts and runs fine still after all these years. It was mainly the dust that got into the bearing that caused it's failure. With the new sealed bearings it should last the rest of my lifetime with no problems. Yes, the windings are all original. Thanks for stopping by