ARP Head Studs+Head Install! Rebuilding My $300 DSM!
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- Опубліковано 22 чер 2018
- AHHHHHHH ITS ACTUALLY LOOKING LIKE A MOTOR AGAIN!
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Couple things.
1) that bracket for the intake manifold is useless and just another 8 spots for vacuum leaks.
2) I noticed that you had the cylinders set to #1 TDC which isn't a good practice for interference engines. It's better if you turn the crank a few teeth backwards (before tdc) so when you tighten the cams there isn't a chance of you bending valves. You want all the pistons below deck height. Then once you install the cams and lock them into tdc rotate the crank back to tdc.
3) make sure you bleed your lifters before installing them. You should be able to compress them with 2 fingers. If not stick a small Allen in the head of them and push the release valve as you actuate the lifter by hand to make sure they are all empty.
1- so pull the bracket and run the vacuum lines straight?
2- thanks for the tip. Hopefully be doing that next week!
3-I haven’t put them in yet but I’ll make sure to do that before I do
Neil Bullock yup remove the bracket and just run solid vacuum lines If you are still using those solenoids.
I think my 1g has... 7 vacuum lines left on it.
BOV to Intake manifold
Wastegate to boost controller
Boost controller to compressor housing
Fuel pressure regulator to Vacuum Tee
Vacuum Tee to boost gauge
Vacuum tee to Intake Manifold
Intake manifold to MAP sensor (SD operation through ECMLink v3)
ALL of those lines combined, might be 4 feet.
Tony Jacob need some information on my car. 1990 Eagle talon tsi Awd
Robert Hegel Whatcha got?
When putting the washers and nuts on the ARP head studs I have a tip: I use a screw driver, I like to put the ARP nut and then the washer on a screwdriver, just until it hits the handle, hold them on there with one hand then put the tip, of the screw driver, flat against the head, and simply drop the washer and nut, this will help guide them onto the head studs, so the ARP washers don't fall into the head, sometimes I'll guide all the ARP washers, and then the ARP nuts separate.
Love the intro! Getting closer, can't wait to see that thing running!
Just caught up on a few videos, Looking good man, thanks for sticking with it!
Keep that dsm content coming for the community! Love your vids man!💪🏽
Good to see some progress being made on the car.
Safety Note: Remove your rings from your fingers or any metal jewelry while working on cars or anything mechanical for that matter. Trust me you don't want to see what could happen if you snag it on something with enough force to peel the skin off your finger, or if it grounds out against something with electrical power running through it.
Hooray for progress.. deff. Gonna get one of those guard spiders.
I’m almost in the same position you are with me 90 tsi talon... can’t wait. Good vids 👍🏾👌🏾💯
Can't wait, I'm excited for ya
I picked up a 1g plymouth laser off some guy for 50$ for parts for my gsx and the amazing thing is this plymouth is all in tact so long story short I got it and it didn't run so I scavenged the icm off my gsx and wires and fuel filter and son of a b it runs and drives and perfect oil pressure to.your channel inspired me to save a dsm from scrap thanks hope all go's well with vanilla rice
Having the same issue with the washers hitting the valves on a few, any tips for getting the washer past the valve
Get ahold of me bro, got mine up and running. Believe or not, my head gasket is good!! Turbo spools, but I have major boost leaks!
That intro tho xD
You're not supposed to copper spray composite gaskets. The differences between the metalurgical properties of the aluminum and iron, and different expansion rates that they have can cause the gasket to fail prematurely.
That stuff is strictly for MLS style gaskets in the 4G63 IMHO.
Source: I run a 20 dollar, unsprayed Fel-Pro composite gasket to 40+ PSI on standard ARP studs, without failure.
What hg did you use
Where is the video of it running
Did I see a fast back mustang nose around the corner of the barn?!!!
Maybe.... not a fast back though. Coupe with a 302
If you want a nice car in a trade for it i will trade my fully built evo 8 swapped 3g eclipse for it only if you throw in 2500 built for 700hp